IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


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4 


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1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


Vi<^    125 

NtUU 

U   111.6 


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Hiotographic 
.Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STMET 

WEBSTiR.N.Y.  USSO 

(716)  tTf^SOS 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


T«chnic&  and  Bibliographic  Noton/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiqu« 


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tot 


The  institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
originai  copy  availabie  for  fiiming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographicaliy  unique, 
which  may  aiter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  fiiming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


y 


D 
D 


D 


Coloured  covets/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I     I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endomrnagte 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^  et/ou  peili'cuf4e 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 

Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  g^ographiques  en  couleur 


n 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  carjser  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  iorsque  cela  Atait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  its  filmtes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6montaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  iui  a  *t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sent  peut-Atre  uniques  du 
point  de  vua  bibiiographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  methods  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquto  ci-desscus. 


D 
D 
D 
0 
D 
0 
D 
D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagtes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurtes  et/ou  pellicuiies 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  dteolortes,  tachetAes  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dAtachtes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  InAgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppMmentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
Slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  ref limed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieliement 
obscurcies  par  ui  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  filmtes  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  A 
obtenir  la  meilieure  image  possible. 


Thi 
poa 
ofi 

filfT 


Orii 
befl 
the 
sioi 
oth 
firs 
sioi 
ori 


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whJ 

Mai 
diff 
enti 
befl 
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reqi 
mei 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  rMuction  'ndiqu*  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmad  h«r«  has  b««n  raproduesd  thanks 
to  th«  ganarosity  of: 

UnSversity  of  Victorii 


L'axampla!:: 
ginirositA  da 


«ti 


m4  fut  raproduit  griica  A  la 


University  of  Victoria 


Tha  imagaa  appaaring  hara  ara  tha  baat  quality 
poaaibla  eonsidaring  tha  condition  and  lagibiiity 
of  tho  original  copy  and  in  kaaping  with  tha 
filming  contract  tpacif ieations. 


Original  copiaa  in  printad  papar  covara  ara  fllmad 
baginning  with  tha  front  covar  and  anding  on 
tha  last  paga  with  a  printad  or  illustratad  impraa- 
sion,  or  tha  back  covar  whan  appropriata.  All 
othar  original  eopiaa  ara  filmad  baginning  on  tha 
first  paga  with  a  printad  or  illuatratad  impraa- 
sion,  and  anding  on  tha  last  paga  with  a  printad 
or  illuatratad  imprassion. 


Las  imagas  suivantas  ont  iiti  reproduitas  avec  la 
plus  grand  soin,  compta  tanu  da  la  condition  at 
da  la  nattat*  da  I'axamplaira  film«,  at  an 
conformity  avac  las  conditions  du  contrat  da 
fiimaga. 

Laa  axamplairas  origir.aux  dont  la  couvartura  en 
papiar  aat  imprimte  sont  fiimto  an  commandant 
par  ia  pramiar  plat  at  an  tarminant  soit  par  la 
darniAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraasion  ou  d'iiiustration.  soit  par  la  sacond 
plat,  salon  la  cas.  Tous  las  autras  axamplairas 
originaux  sont  fiimte  an  commandant  par  la 
pramiAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  amprainta 
d'impraasion  ou  d'iiiustration  at  an  tarminant  par 
ia  darnlAra  paga  qui  comporta  una  talla 
amprainta. 


Tha  laat  racordad  frama  on  aach  mieroficha 
shall  contain  tha  symbol  —^(moaning  "CON- 
TINUED ").  or  tha  symbol  ▼  (moaning  "END"), 
whichavar  appiiaa. 


Un  daa  symboias  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
darniAra  imaga  da  chaqua  microfiche,  salon  la 
cas:  la  symbols  — ^  signifia  "A  SUIVRE".  la 
symbols  ▼  signifia  "FIN". 


Mapa,  plataa,  charts,  stc.  may  ba  filmad  at 
diffarant  reduction  ratios.  Thoaa  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  expoaura  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  lett  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  aa  many  frames  aa 
required.  The  following  diagrama  illuatrate  the 
method: 


Las  cartaa.  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  pauvant  dtra 
filmte  A  das  taux  da  reduction  diffirants. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtra 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  fiimi  A  partir 
da  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droits. 
et  de  haut  an  bas,  an  prenant  la  nombra 
d'imagea  nAcassaire.  Las  diagrammas  suivants 
iilustrent  la  mithoda. 


1  2  3 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

^>'^.^lf\A^, 


IpS^NDERLANDS- 

-' '  A  Pictorial  and  Descriptive  History 

or  ouK 

Country's  Scenic  flarvels 


AS  DELINEATED  BY  PEN  AND  CAMERA 


i^'  By  J.  W.  BUEL 

The  Famous  Traveler  and  America's  most  eloquent  descriptive  writer 

Author  uf  The  Kcautiful  .Story,  The  5tory  of  ITan,  The  Living  World,  Exile  Life  in  .Siberia,  Heroes  of  the  Dark  Continent, 
....    Around  the  Worlii  with  the  (ireat  Explorers,  Sea  anil  Land,  The  World's  '.N'onders,  lUc,  Etc.    .    .    . 

riore  than  500  Hagnificent  Photographic  Views 

OF  THE 

riajestic  Hountains,  BewildeririK  Canons,  Beautiful  Waterfalls,  Curious  am!  Weird  Formations,  Charming  Valleys,  Picturesque  Lakes, 

t-'amous  Caverns,  Spouting  <ieysers.  Colossal  (iluciers,  and  hundreds  of  other  Natural  Wonders  that  render  America  the 

most  famous  and  beautiful  amonic  the  Nations  of  the  vorld.     Interspersed  with  History,  Lej;end,  Adventure 

and  Entrancing   Descriptions  of   the  Harvelous  Re<;ions  and    Natural  Wonders  embraced  <vithin 

.     .     our  vast  dour. in,  from  Alaska's  frigid  clime  to  Florida's  summerlands.     .     . 


v.. 


HISTORICAL  PUBLISHING  COHPANY 

PHILADELPHIA 


1 


M 


rom  „„,.(„„,   p„„„.,,r.phs,  „,.d  „,,  „„,,,„, 
-U.    hv   Cp.vri..,,,  .„U   „„„c   is   herein   .n,..,., 
that   .■.„,   person  .,r   persons  «uil,,   of  repnulucinj, 

..      .n,r,n,.n.    ,.,e  cop>n.h,    in   «„,    „,,    J 

*!i;alt  uith  aeeordins  I"  l.i« 


i:mcred.  atcordiiiK  to  Act  of  ConRrcss,  in  the  yea 

'«<*,«■  h> 

H.  5.  SMITH, 

In  (lie  Office  ..f  the   l.ihrarian  of  Conftress,  at 

Washington,  I).  C. 

All  rights  reser\cil. 


TABLE  OK  CONTENTS. 


TllK    Snil.IMHI.Y    ('.KAMI    AM)     r-.\'l  IMP  A  K!  Alll.i;    vSc  l-M'K  V     <>1' 

Ami:kica. —  l'iiliin.'sinu'  hiiuls  iiml  i)hu(.s  (i(  oUrt  iMHiiitrifs 
--lCiij;:in<.'iiiL'iit  of  a  I'oi'iis  (it  l'li(itii;;t.iiilii.-rs — I-;i|iiiiiiiK-iil  fit 
our  Caiii(.'r:i  car — A  trip  tn  llio  Kucky  Moiiiitaiiis — Ilasl) 
rrsuiiio  of  the  piitorial  ilislricts  visitfil — I''r()m  suiiiiirt 
I'liiiRS  to  Alaska's  glacial  sliorcs  — I';xi'iir>iciii>i  Uy  car, 
slam',  iloiikiy  ami  foot — ICiliR'aticiiial  hciR'til-^  nl  tin-  tour  — 
'i'JR' work  oiR' ot  p.itriotif  iiRitiiniiit il-li! 

c:i  \rT!:K  i 

Amunc,  Till-:  Wii.ii  Si.'i;m;s  nr  L'lii.dKAi"  i. — Tlirou^li  llu'  ("..iti'- 
wav  ol  tin.'  Rockies — W'oiulroiis  xisidiis  —  In  tlic  canoiis  nt 
Hear  Creek — Coios>al  cleavane  of  CI  ar  Creek — A  siili- 
liR-rged  torcsl  ol  ]ietrilioil  liees — AliiotiK  llie  eloiuls— Devil's 
dale  to  Hridal  Wil  I'alls — Tile  I.oop  at  ( ".eorgetown — Silver 
I''liiii|i — Coriiiuopias  of  r.ilver — ( )ver  lllo  switchback  to 
siKer  lands — Hctweeii  lowering  crags — Terrillc  convulsions 
ol  iiaturi —  Doine  Rock  —  Invocation  of  surging  waters — The 
highest  point  I'ver  reacheil  hv  rail — A  marvelous  tunnel — 
An  astounding  view — Through  lioulder  Canon  ami  into 
North  I'ark— A  tour  of  I'lstes  I'ark— Visits  to  l.oiig's  Teak 
and  liald  Mountain— Wild  game  in  savage  hau'its — Climb- 
ing the  American  Matterhorn — Hew  ilderiug  prospect  from 
the  "key  hole" — A  trip  to  Table  Mountain  anil  esamina- 
tion  of  the  glaciers — A  journey  through  Middle  I'ark — A 
story  of  ('.rand  I, ake — Away  up  on  a  di//y  brink,     .     .     .      IT-ln 

CIIAI'TICU   II. 

Mamtoi-  TiiiC  Mic.iiTV. — Twin  cities  that  sit  at  the  feet  of 
Pike's  Peak — A  spell  of  wonderment  w  rought  by  the  eccen- 
tricities of  nature — God's  acres  of  tumultuous  stone — The 
story  of  Major  Pike's  discovery — The  first  ascent  of  Pike's 
Peak — The  cog  wheel  railroad  to  the  summit — A  trip  to 
cloud  land — The  wonderful  panorama  to  be  surveyed  from 
the  peak — A  battalion  of  monutains  in  review — A  storm  on 
the  nuiuutaiu — I'te  Pass  to  Cascade  Canon — Rainbow  Kails 
and  Craud  Caverns — I'rom  the  Cave-of-the-Winds  down 
William's  Canon — Garden  of  the  Gods — Nature  in  wild  riot 


of  gruesome  forms  and  sublime  creations — Through  CKn 
'iyrie  and  Monninent  Park — Witcheries  that  coiifouucl 
imagination — A  visit  to  Clu-venne  Cafioii — ."seven  I'alls — 
Ivnlrancing  hymns  of  nature — Legends  of  the  .Maiiit(Jii,  \\-i'd 

CIIAPTICR   III 

''.u\Mi  Canons  I'l'  Wi:sti:i<\  Ri\iks.  —  .\  l.md  of  graceiul, 
deep-leaping  w.ilerlalls — .\  p.-irk  of  inarvelons  petrilaclious 
— r.uena  \'isla,lbe  beautilul  \  ii-u — Spcirtsiuen's  Paradise — 
'I'lirongh  Ilagermau  Tniuiel  to  .Mcmiit  of  the  Holy  Cross — 
Craud  Ri\er  (.'an,)U — ."sixteen  miles  ol  natural  wonders — 
'I'l'j  (".rand  C.inoii  ol  the  Cnlora<lii — Major  Powell's  Trip 
lioin  (iii-eii  Ri\er  to  Vum.i — A  perilous  journey  richly 
recompensed  —  l-'lamiiig  ('.urge  and  Horseshoe  Canons — 
Tossed  by  dangerous  rapids  into  halls  and  temples  carved 
by  Titans — In  a  chasm  "."nn  leel  deep— Ca\  ems  of  ]',\\- 
ch.iiitUK-nt  and  walls  llecked  with  rainbow  colors — .\  bor- 
derland i>f  phalli, isy — Cave  habit. itions  ot  an  extinct  race — 
Story  of  the  hunted  refugees — Wriniliou  ClilTs,  Temples  of 
the  N'irgiii  and  Marble  Canon — ('.lories  th.it  thrill  the  heart 
with  ecstas),  and  till  the  soul  wil  h  reverence,      ,      .      .      .       r.:;-S.| 

CII.M'TI-'.R    1\-. 

MAinia.s  Ol"  the  Ckkat  I)i-:si-:kt.  —  Magnificence  of  the 
scenery  along  Grand  River — h'roiu  mountain  to  jilain — 
lieaiiliful  Provo  Palls — ( )iir  great  inland  sea — Fruilfnlness 
of  Salt  Lake  \'al!ey — A  wali  of  mountains  around  Salt 
Lake — Shores  of  ancient  Lake  Honneville,  now  America's 
dead  sea— Islands  of  Salt  Lake — The  Mormon  City  and  how- 
it  was  founded — Red  liutte  and  IJmigrant  Canons— Garfield 
Heach  and  Giant's  Cave — I'aIio  and  Weber  Canons — Val- 
leys of  marvelous  diversity — The  Devil's  Slitle  and  the 
Witches'  Plajgrinind — lieavef  River  Gulch  and  .scenic 
wonders  about  (igdeii — A  trip  across  the  creviced  lava 
fields  of  Idaho — The  magnitude  and  awfuluess  of  Shoshone 
P'alls —  V  .second  Niagara  in  the  desert — Twin,  Cascade  and 
Hridal  \'eil  P'alls — .\  realistic  description  of  this  iiicoiiijiar- 
able  wonderland, S.")-1I2 


TABLIC  OI"  C(  )N"ri';XTS. 


C'lI.MM'R  V. 

OVI'.R  TIIIC   IIi:i(.llTS  AMI  INTO     llll-;    Dllll'S  OK  W'lNDDKI.ANH. 

—  TliniMKli  till'  I'liilnls  (if  Ulack  Cifiini  — .\-l(nimliii>;  \  ii-ws 
ailing  CiiiMiiiscm  Kivi't — Chi|>lHla  l''alls  and  Cnrrci-anti 
NiLillc — A  ^iKllt  i>l  I'"os>il  Ki(l>;f  ami  tlio  Cmie  <i(  Ouray — 
The  trip  ovit  Marshall  I'ass — The  Icrrilile  niigliliiiess  o( 
tlie  K(>\  il  I'lorye — IlanginK  Hriiine — The  ti'iniHstunnsly 
c-rajj^y  route  lulween  Ironton  nu'l  <  Inrav — Marviluiis  engi- 
neering; skill — Weinlh  savage  Animas  Carimi — A  railroad 
lialfony  l.AiKl  feel  ali'ni'  the  rivtr— A  flight  liigh  as  the 
eagle's — Kit  Carson's  lAploils  in  Cafmn  de  Chelle — The 
awesomiiussof  Toltec  dorgt — A  parade  ground  iit  Nature's 
Idols — Looking  di>\vu  upon  the  worM  —  lilooming  flouer- 
land  of  S.in  I.uis  I'ark  —  Down  through  C'omamhe  Canon — 
A  side  trip  to  ruined  puelilos  ami  cliff  dwellings  in  New 
Mexico — Something  ationt  an  extinct  race — 'I'lie  Cirave  of 
Kit  Carbon — SiJiiie  history  of  remarkable  interest -The 
ancient  ruehlo  Indians  and  their  duellings — Magnilieent 
ruiusof  theCasa  (iramUs — Montezuma's  Palace — I'lvidences 
of  a  walled  ami  towered  cit\ — Prehistoric  man  in  New- 
Mexico ll.'.-l.c' 

ciiai'T;:k  \-i. 

Across  tin:  Cactis  I)i:si;rt  into  Cai.ii-hknia's  (;iii.i>i;\ 
Land. —  The  Zuiii  plateau — Approach  to  the  (".rand  Canon 
of  the  Colorado — A  scene  of  overpowering  snlilimiu — A 
Mohave  X'illage — 1  leath  X'alley— From  steiility  to  lertility 
— Monterey  and  its  attractions — A  visit  to  the  I.ick  Ohserv- 
atorv  , and  the  great  telescope — In  and  around  San  Francisco 
— The  Seal-.'  S|iorting  (".rounds — Tlie  Mariposa  grove  of 
big  trees — A  trip  through  the  wimdrous  valley  of  the 
Yosemite — A  stage  journey  through  a  region  of  incom[iarable 
gramk-ur — Wonders  and  curiosities  of  the  Yosemite — I'alls 
of  extraordinary  beauty  and  peaks  of  ama/iiig  height — 
The  Calavaras  big  trees — 'Plic  journey  from  Ogden  to  Cali- 
fornia— Across  the  great  American  desert — Indian  camps 
ahmg  the  v.ay — The  Ilnmboldt  I'alisades — I.ake  Tahoe — 
The  sad  story  of  the  DotiiRr  partv — Along  the  lofty  crest  <>t 
American  Canon — (".iaut's  (".aj)  and  Cape  Horn — 'I'he  beau 
tiful  Sacramento  \'alle> l."i:;-p,lj 

ciiai'Ti;r  \ii. 

(5l'R    JOfRNDY    TiiRon.ii    I'lCTURi-sor;-:     Rkcions    ok    tiik 
NoHTilWKST. — Winter  in  vernal  climes — A  plunge  into  the 


Siskiyou  Kaiigt — the  light  that  crowns  Sliasta's  head — 
Soda  Springs  that  titillate  the  palate  like  champagne — 
I'lxipiisite  Mossbr;u  Falls — A  glorious  si;;lil  from  I'ortlaiid's 
heights — I.ofty  peaks  of  tlie  Cascade  Range — A  trip  tip  the 
Columbia — I'ictorial  shores  that  lend  charm  to  interest — It;, 
dales,  palisades  and  waterfalls — A  |ianorama  of  extraordi- 
nary grandeur — A  side  trip  to  Crater  I.ake — Traditions  of 
the  Klamath  Imlians — The  most  marvelous  body  of  water 
on  earth — Indian  legend  of  creation,  the  llood  and  re])eo]ding 
of  the  world — Wondrous  visions  on  the  lake — The  core  of 
a  great  volcano — A  .Siwasli  legend  of  the  Saviour — A  voyage 
to  Alaska — I"irst  sight  of  the  glaciers — In  the  ...iid  of  ice- 
bergs— Description  of  MnirC lacier — liirtli  of  icebergs — His- 
tory of  the  glacial  epoch— F'acts  and  fancies  about  Alaskan 
native-. — Their  religion  and  mortuary  customs — O,  glorious 
niijht  o!  the  North! l!t;!--j:!4 

CIIAl'TI'R  VIII. 

Across  Tin-;  Molntains  to  Vi:i.i.owstom;  I'ark.  —  A  deloiir 
on  the  Canadian  I'acillc  Railroa<l  —  Magniricent  scenery 
along  I'"raser  River— Green  lakes  on  monnlain  brows — 
Canadian  National  I'ark — A  glimpse  of  the  Sandwich 
Islands  through  other  eyes  than  ours — Down  the  Yakimer 
River — Spokane  and  I'alouse  Falls — Sights  along  Snake 
River — I'innacle  Rocks — Lost  I'alls — I.akes  of  marvelous 
lieaul>  and  rivers  <if  torrential  flow — A  trip  to  the  Ij  (alls 
oi  the  Missouri — Our  visit  to  Yellowstone  I'ark — The  won- 
ilrous  gateway  to  (".ardiner  Canon — Nesting  place  of  the 
sentinel  eagle — Mammoth  Hot  Springs  Terraces — Remark- 
able formations  more  beautiful  than  the  Cave  of  Stalacta — 
Springs  glowing  with  brilliant  coloring — Terraces  of  petri- 
fied rainbows — Through  the  (".olden  ('.ate,  by  deep  canon, 
lolty  waterfall  and  far-soaring  cliffs — In  purgatorial  regions 
— Crowling  caves  and  spouting  (".eysers — The  Devil's 
Kitchen  and  his  Majesty's  Mush  jiot — -Along  F"ireliole 
River  and  into  the  Lower  Basin— The  land  of  fearful  sur- 
l>rises  and  volcanic  energy — Yellowstone  Lake  and  its 
game-aboi'udiug  shores — Death  Valley  and  I'etrified  F'orest 
— Ora.id  Canon  of  the  Yellowstone  and  its  flowing  beauties 
— Tower  and  Yellowstone  I'alls- A  grave  yard  of  mam- 
moth ((uadripeds, 2.'ir>-'J38 


Sc 


A 


TAUMv  OK  COXTI'IXTS. 


CHAI'TI-R  IN. 


-234 


Amoxi;  Till?  WoNDKKS  <ii'  Tin;  Hi.AiK  IIii.i.s. — Heautilul  lirlls 
(if  the  St.  Croix — Scfiiis  nf  IIk-  l.isl  Iiiili:iii  lilirisiii;^ — Tlii.- 
sri'iiiTv  nbiuit  I>riiil\vii<Ml — ■'riiiiiulliKms  woiultrs  iif  Cu^Ur 
I'ark — Miirvils  of  }\\k  Crt-t-k  Canon — Hiiriiiys  IVak  niiil 
WfilKf  Rock — llorsfslioi-  Curve — Ki'itli's  Crystiil  Cavf — 
A  trip  to  tlio  Holli;  l-'ourtlii- — Astouiidinj;  woiuliT  of  tin- 
Devil's  Tower — A  l)asaltie  columii  lii^lier  than  the  ICiffil 
Tower — Speiulalioiis  coniiriiiiiK  its  foniialion — Crow  Unite 
and  Signal  KiK-k — A  story  of  Indian  heroism — St.  Antliony's 
I-'alls — Chan^lin^;  lie.inty  of  Miniiehiha — Dells  of  tiie  St. 
Croix — The  l)i\  il's  l''ishin>;  I'liue — Cnstoinsof  the  Wiseoii- 
sin  Indians — Making  a  Mcliiine  Man — Witiliery  ol  the 
W'iseonsin  DelU — CUaviiKes  of  extraordinary  euriosily — 
Knner.il  ceremonies  of  the  Ojiliways — Wonders  of  Devil's 
Lake  ancl  Camp  DmiKlas — Thronnh  the  Straits  of  Macki- 
naw— I'ictnresiiueness  of  Superior's  Shores — I'ictured  Jiali- 
.sades  and  fro/eii  waterfalls — Scenery  along  the  iioilh  shore 
— .\  trip  down  the  Mississippi,        '.'Sil-:;!! 

CIIAI'Ti'R  X. 

ScKNic  Manvi;i.s  m-  Tin;  (iKi;Ar  Xoktiii;ast.  —  Monniain 
scenes  in  the  vicinity  of  ICnreka  Springs— l.eKeml  of  the 
Starved  Rock  ill  Illinois — Snblinie  glories  ami  imnuiisity 
of  Niagara  l-alls — rtiliz:'.tion  of  the  waters — .Some  interest- 
ing scientific  facts — The  Mohawk  \'alley  and  Leather 
Stocking  Stories — Magnificince  of  Watkin's  and  Havana 
Cileiis — The  poetry  of  idyllic  retreats — Down  through  the 
Thousand  Islands  —  Chatauguay  Chasm  —  Canons  of  the 
Ansahle  ami  hewililering  glories  of  the  Adirondacks  — 
Hunting  grounds  of  the  great  North  wilderness — Scenes  of 
incomparahle  grandeur — Story  of  our  tramp  through  the 
Catskills — A  trip  down  tlie  Hudson — IMaces  famous  in 
American  liistor\ — West  Point  and  its  noted  surroundings,  .il.'i-.'iS-J 

CHAPTER  XI. 

A  Pictokiai.  ToiK  Ol'  Tin;  1v\,sti;rn  Stati;s — A  tri])  through 
the  scenic  regions  of  Canada — Torrential  mightiness  of 
Cliaudiere  Falls — The  falls  of  Montreal  Kiver — A  trip 
through  Lachine  Rapids — Something  alioiit  the  early  history 
of  (Quebec — Winter  sports  in  Montreal — The  home  of  (Jiieen 
Victoria's  father — lieantiftil  scenery  in  the  vicinity  of  Queliec 
— A  journey  thri..igh  the  New  Kngland  States — The  Cireen 
Mountains  of  Vermont — Description  of  the  White  Mount- 


ains— .Singular  examples  of  nature  sciil]itiiri  ig — .\sceii-ion 
of  the  highest  ]ieaks  and  liew  ililering  \  iews  t!  relrom — The 
cog-wheel  railro.id  up  Mount  Wa^hiIlgloll — >ensalioiis  and 
charms  of  the  ascent — A  ty|iical  \  illage  in  a  New  Hampshire 
valley — Vagaries  and  reveries  of  a  poetaster — Wildgr.imUur 
of  Wild-Cat  River — .\lloat  on  the  pretty  lakes  of  New 
Hamiishire  — I'Voin  Maine  to  Hostoii — Historic  places  of 
Massachuselts,  and  the  stories  connected  with  them — 
Curiosities  around  riltslield  and  description  of  the  Shaker 
settlement, :'.S.' 

CIIAl'Tl'K   Nil. 


3 

i'.\aR 


-111 


Ox    HlSToKlC     I'll-I.DS    ol-     \'lK(.INIA     A.Ml     I'INNSVI.V  AM  A. — 

I'Voiii  the  nine  drass  Regions  to  the  Shenandoah — Scenery 
of  the  Kanawha  River  ami  Hlue  Ridge  .Mountains — Mar- 
velous Natlir.il  Hrjdge  of  X'irginia — Some  remarkahle 
scenes  in  ii.ist  Telinessei — I'eil  pictures  of  some  of  the 
mountaineers — War  memories  that  are  fast  failing — The 
('■real  Smoky  Mountains — Portraitures  of  North  Caro- 
linians, and  some  t>'pical  farm  scenes — .Scenery  ahoiit 
Aslievilli — A  tragic  story  of  the  ascent  of  Mount  Mitchell — 
.\  visit  to  I.uray  Caverns — lieaiities  of  the  I'lnler-uiirld  tli.it 
dazzle  with  their  splendor — Descriptions  of  the  suliterranean 
chambers — \'alUy  of  the  Shenandoah — Memorable  battle- 
tields — Down  the  Juniata  -  .Scenery  of  the  ,Siisi|uelianna — 
\'isit  to  a  land  of  waterfalls  beyond  the  W.iter  dap,       .      ll.'i— IIS 

CHAPTI'R   XIII. 

TiiKorc.ii  I.ANC.rnKors  Lands  oi'  tiii;  Sinnv  Soi-tii. — A 
visit  to  the  C'.etlysbiirg  battle  field— Through  the  Wilder- 
ness of  \'irgiiiia — Scene  of  the  closing  event  of  the  war  — 
P"roin  Fortress  Monroe  to  the  Dismal  vSwamp — Story  of 
Nat  Turner's  Insurrection— A  Dream  of  the  Old  Cabin 
Home — From  Georgia  to  the  orange  lauds  of  Florida- 
Olden  times  in  St.  Augustiiu — .\  boat  journey  down  Indian 
River,  into  a  land  of  perpetual  bloom — \'isioiis  of  tropic 
beauty  and  luxuriance — A  trip  on  .St.  John's  River,  and  on 
the  Ocklawaha — .Mligalors,  snakes,  and  other  slimy  things 
— Marvels  of  Silver  .Spring — 'Way Down  I'pon  the  Suwan- 
nee River — From  Mobile  to  New  Orleans — A  trip  to  M;im- 
moth  Cave — Descriptions  of  its  subterranean  wonders — A 
tour  of  Wyandotte  Cave — Magnificence  of  its  halls,  in  which 
the  splendors  of  Aladdin's  Cavern  are  reproduced  —  Con- 
clusion,       -tl'J-oOS 


I 


BBKVI.  Sl'RINdS   ANIJ  CLEOPATRA  TERRACB,   Ybl.l.OVVSTONE   NATIONAL   PARK. 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Uvx\\  Spi  in^H  mill  Cl(-()])iitiii  Tiiiini-.  \'flln«sti»iif  I'ltrk. 
A  I'liiiiilyiil  I'liililii  liiiliiiMs,  Nt«  Mixini, 
1  lOM-iiiiir's  Kt-siili'tii  r,  I'lit'tilo  ti(  Ti-hiii|m-.  Nrw  Mi-xirn, 
•  Wllali-llmk  "  Itoiil  111  tin    Niirtlliril  Lakes. 

Till'  rnis,  .MiiniliMi  I'.irk,  Culnriiil 

On  till' Oi  kliiwiilia  Ki\i  1.  I'liiiiilii,    . 

On  till-  Siiiiunit  111  Mount  Tarnnia,  Orr^nn, 

\'ii-w  III  I'lirt  Wrunvit'l.  Alaska, 

IMkf's  Pi-ak.  Iinni  Colniarln  Spring''. 

Marsliall  I'aIN,  Cliar  t'rirk  Oannii. 

A  Viiw  111  I'iki 's  IViik, 

Chalk  Cliffs,  L'liarCrrik  Cinmi, 

A  Viiw  111  I'laltr  CailiiTi, 

Ar^;l■nl  I  I'alU 

Cailiin  Walls  iil  tlif  Kin  ilf  l.us  Anini.i«, 

Ilriilal  Vi'il  I'alls,  mar  Ilt'vil's  Oati', 

Vallrv  Ilf  llir  ('iiinniMHi, 

Till' l,iHi|i,  mar  ('■iiirniiiiwii, 

Mary  l.aki*  anil  l.iin>;'s  IVak.  INlis  I'nik, 

MntratUT  to  l*>lcs  Park. 

Ilij:li  l.ini'  Canal,  Sihir  I'lnnif, 

Iliinii- kiH-k,  Huulilir  Cailiin.      . 

Itimlili  r  I'alls 

Miinntain  Ilf  till-  Iliil\  Criiss, 

(iTaxniiint  Miinntain,  MiiMlr  I'aik, 

•SaiMli-  Kiuk,  fti-  I'ass, 

Williiii  till'  Calls,  (larilin  i.l  tla-  ('mils. 

Turn  >'s  IVak,  Miildli'  I'.irk.      . 

Till-  \\"i-st\varil  I'loiiil  Ilf  ICnii^Tatiiin,     . 

I'ri-immt's  Pass.  North  I'.irk, 

I)oil(;i's  lllulf.  Canon  of  I'.r I  Uiv.r, 

('.rami  I.akt .  Miilillc  Park. 
(Virr'sCaniin.  Miilillf  I'.irk, 
111  the  Canon  orCii.iinl  Ki\fr, 
Seal  anil  llrar,  CiariliMl  of  tin-  Cfoils, 
Stalaititi'  ( Ir^.'ill,  t  i  ra  111  1  Ca\  fins, 
Catlu-ilral  Sjiirrs,  I'.anlin  of  tin-  (Vmls, 
Juinlio 'rnniifl,  ( '.rami  Cavt'rns, 
C.'trria^^t-Uoail  np  I'iki-'s  I'rak,      . 
Tcinpli-  of  Isis,  Williams'  Cafion. 
Till.' Jaws  of  Cli-ar  Cri-i-k  Caiioii, 


'm;p: 
4 
II 
13 
i:t 
|:i 
II 
l.t 
Hi 

1 1 

IK 

111 
'Jll 
•Jl 


:iii 

.HI 

:i'j 
ai 
a.) 
:u 
.'i.'i 
ail 
ar 
ax 
ail 

411 
41 
42 

4a 

44 

4R 
411 
47 


Williams'  Cailoii.  mar  tlii'  C.iv  of  tin  W'imls 

I'lllar  of  Jnpitir 

Triple  I'alls.  Chi  yrnnr  Canon. 
.\iivil  Koi'k.  C.arilin  111  till' (ioils. 
Kainliow  I'alls,  I'll'  I'.iss. 
Towi'i  of  llaliil,  Cirtrilrn  of  tliu  CmU. 
(llisiTvatory  on  I'iki's  I'l'ak. 
I'tf  I'ass,  mar  Maniton, 
C.ati'way  to  C.anlrn  Ilf  till' (ioils. 
The  lUilih  WiililinK.  Moiinnunt  I'aik, 
llalamt'il  Kork,  ('.anliii  of  Ihu  ('mil'., 
Till'  lii'vil's  Tiiiitli.  Cliiyi  iiiii'  Cailiin. 
Viilian's  .\iivll.  Miiiinimnt  I'ark, 
Major  llnino.  ('.It-ii  I'lyrir, 

Nrnlll'  Kiii'ks,  (ilirill'n  of  the  Cuiils, 

Mi'iliriiii'  Uiirk,  .Miimitmnt  Park. 

Till' Mint,  Moiinnunt  Park. 

.MiitliiT('.rniiil\'.  Monnnii-nl  Park. 

I'!iantiini  I'alls.  North  Clii  yriini'  Canon, 

Castli'  I'all-,  North  Clii  yrnm-  Caiion. 

Crystal  1' ills.  Casiaili'C.ifion. 

Till' Ili-'ur'sCave,  ni*ar('.rii-n  l.aki'. 

Portal  of  ('.t-aiul  Kivir  Cinoii.    . 

Sylvan  I'alls.  CiisraiU-  Catlun. 

Hook  Cliffs,  I'.r.Miil  UiviT  C.inon. 

Tripli-  l''.ills.  Casiaili'  Canon, 

Niar  Ilami's  Caliin,  C.r.inil  C-ifion  of  the  C 

Ten-Mile  Pass,  Kokoino,  Colorailo, 

In  the  Canon  of  I'.raiiil  River, 

Kailiali  Piiin.u'les,  tlranil  C.inoii  ot  tlu-  Colorai 

Pyraniiil  IVak,  ('.rami  Canon  of  the  Colorailo, 

Ilorseslir       afioii,  ('.rami  C.inoii  of  the  Colorai 

l-a'lio  Clifls,  Canon  of  (tr. mil  Kiver. 

Jarassie  Tcrr.iee  of  the  Colali.  Crand  Canon  of 

Cliff  Unins  in  the  Canon.  .         .         .         . 

Ilulfalo  Mill  ami  Party  at  Point  .-^iililiine. 

Skulls  of  the  Cliff-I)«ellers 

llame'sTrail.  ('.rami  Canon, 

.\  Kotary  Snow-Plow 

Ruins  of  .\iu'ient  Palaee  of  Casa  ('.ramie.     , 
Ruins  of  .\mienl  Walls  of  Casa  C.ramle. 


liira-lo 


the 


l'\r.K 
47 
It 
4I( 

.•,(» 
■M 
.'li 
!,:\ 
M 
ri.i 

Ml 
fi" 

r.s 

.Mt 
Mt 

IIQ 

lit 
III 
a-i 

(13 

liii 

04 
115 

iia 
«• 

IM 

lilt 
TO 
71 

7i 

::t 

74 

7r. 

71! 
78 
77 
TS 
79 
80 
81 
81 


LIST  ()!•   II.I.rSTRATlDNS. 


Ilriil..!  v.  il,  Slii.«'ii.iii   I'.ill-. 

I'rt'Hlii-t  I'.il't  ni  ilu'  I'arnnuutMii.  L'ltlnr.iili), 

Twin  I.ikf.  Cnitoiinixnl  L'.inini. 

Ill.uk  K.x  I.  C.riMt  Salt  l.iki .    . 

I'laliiu'.  I>hi»i"ii  lnlHiin  lliili  iiii'l  ^.'.ilnr.iili 

MoriiiKii  Tiiii]i|i-.  SiiH  I.,ii,i-  City. 

Prm,.  r.iIU.  Ct.ih 

Ilpi-Ilm-  IlciiiM-.  Salt  I.akf  Cilv. 
Iii'iiMf  Cirt'U'.  iifar  Mur.ka,  Ct.ili, 
llritiliiin  Vomin's  Ciravi'   Salt  1.  iki- Cilv , 
Ca'^lU' tlatf,  I'rii'i- *  Ciii'mii, 
Jiii-ipliiiif  I'all*.  rtali. 
Mimm  N'flo,  Wavitill  Ualim\ 
r\ill  it  Km.  k.  Wilur  Cailiiii, 
Olili'st  lliMl'-i'  Ml  Salt  I.aki'Cit\. 
Witilii-^'  Riuks.  Wilnr  CaflnM, 
Mi)rmiiM  TilliiiiK  Ili>ui»i'.  Salt  I.akr  City, 
Haii^ini:  Koi'k,  AiiitTicati  I'lirk  Cafiun, 
Till-  lU-  il  >  Sliili-.  Will  r  Cation. 
Ti'a-1'iit  km-k.  C.rciii  River. 

I'uljiit  Koi'k.  I'll  till  Cailoi 

.MiiiiU'ii  ot  till'  Hail  I..1111U. 

Witfh  KiH'k.  Hail  I.aiiiU  of  Wyoniini:, 

Moiniiiit  f.t  Koik.  l-a-lio  Cailoii. 

i»iam  >CIiil'.  I'.ri-fii  KiviT. 

Hank*  "f  Siiiki-  ki%ri. 

Hn'l  I.aiiiU  ■'(  WviitniiiK. 

Wi-IitT  \'alli.-y  anil  Tlimii-l. 

I'rtr  tiiil  Trtiv.  ..I' the  Hail  I.aniN, 

Cfilar  Cat'inn.  H.nl  I.anils  of  D.ikot.i. 

llliilt-  lit  t'lritii  Rivir, 

Moy.a  Tails.  M.ili,,,  ... 

Slioslioiu'  1  .iIN 

Firry  at  Slioslioiu-  I'alli.. 

Natural  Hrliliii-,  Slii.-Iiom-  I'alls. 

T'tiawii-*,'  Cifiiiii.  Ciilorailo. 

Tiiatl-StonI  Roik.  Ill*  If  ( lUnnisiiM. 

Hox  Canon  1'. ills,  near  (iiinni'.iin. 

I-;.ikIi.- Kiuk.  Slinshdiii- l'al!s, 

I'rofik-  Roik.  ni-ar()nr!i\. 

Month  of  C.ranil  RiviT  Canon. 

LiMiiinv;  TowiT.  PiTry  T.-trk. 

Casoaili'  at  Ouray.  .... 

CnrriiMiiti  Ni'iilli-,  Colmailn, 

Twill  r.ills,  ni-ar  .Vmi-s,  Colorailo, 

Cliiinn-t  1  I'alls,  lllaik  Cai'ioii  of  tin-  Cuiiuison 


Kl 

Mt 
Ml 

w 

IM 
Ml 
IN) 
III 

n 
im 
114 

IIS 
Ml 
UT 

UN 

mi 

Hill 

nil 

lii'J 

|i':l 
II  I 
Inl 
III.- 
111.-, 
1 01; 
im; 
in; 
Ins 
His 
lull 
llii 
III 
ll'J 
ll'J 
11:1 
11:1 
III 
II.-. 
Il'i 
11: 
lis 
lis 

1 1 '.I 
IJII 
l:il 


J. IMS  III  lii-.iih,  .Xninian  Cailon. 

Mouni  Oiira> ,  Colorailo 

I'si'iiViitioiiM  in  (lii>  I'ltlts  (i|  M.in.-i.i.  C'aflon, 
Riiln«  of  dill  Hwrlliiiu^  ill  .Mm.  im  dnon, 
WiHt  Siili'  of  Maisli.ill  l'as», 
Caliari'ons  ClilN  ol  I  ir.in.'  Rivt'r, 

Till'  R.ii.il  C.irK.',  

Hhatitnni  Cum. 

Trail  I  iMr  till' San  III. Ill  Monnlain*, 
Crivn  I- Cafliin.  n.iir  (Uiray. 
.\illilii|'i' I'ark.  mar  rolliiM'i.ir^i', 
Hii'r  I'ark  C.isiailr,  .Xniin.ii  C.ifli.t.. 
'Uiray  .Hill  Silvirlon  St.iK.  Roail. 
I.nki'  Hrninan.  in  Soiilli  I'.nk. 

City  of  Ihiray.  Col.irinl.i 

Maiili'ii  Hair  I'alU 

.\niinas  Cation 

Clill  llurlliiiKu  ill  till  Rio  Man.  OH  Cation, 
Ruins  III  till' Clil(-|i«illirH,  Miiinoii  Canon, 
\V.  iimiis  anil  I'tinsilB  of  Clillli\velli'r», 
I..iki'  San  Cristoval.  Coloriiilo. 
t'.ravi'  of  Kit  Ciirson,  Niw  Mixii  .1.    . 
Toltfr  I'lfum' of  till-  I.os  rinoH. 
Ciivi'  liwillin^ii  in  tliu  Cinmi  .If  t  li.  Ilrv. 
.\  Ri  lie  o(  lliiCavi'  Iiwi  llirs. 

I.. I  \'i'ta  I'aHS,  Colorailo 

Cavi-  Ilal'iMtions.  mar  l';s|i.iiiola. 

\Va(;.iti\Vlinl  ('.a|i 

Siianisli  I'l-aks.  from  I, as  W-^as. 

I..1S  I'iiios  \'alli-\ 

Misiian  (i\i  lis  iisi.l  liy  I'uililo  liiiliaiiK. 

.X.liilii' Villa);i' of  I'liililo  Inili.iiis. 

,Sfi-iii'  on  the  liri-at  .Anifrii  an  lirsert. 

I'lii'lilo  VilhiKi' of  I.a  I'.una. 

Inner  Court  of  a  Hiiililii  Town. 

Navajo  Churi'li.  near  I'ort  Win;;ate, 

The  N.  lilies,  aloll);  the  Rio  (".ran. le.      . 

The  (llil  Spanish  I'al.iee.  Sniita  I'e, 

lllil  Chureh  of  San  Miguel  il.iiilt  l.'iWli.  Siinti 

Natural  limine,  near  Monterey,  Calittirniu, 

.\  Century  I'laiit  in  Hlooni 

.\  Caeliis  I'eiue  in  .\ri/ona, 
The  C.reit  Telescope  ill  I.i.'k  ol.servatory, 
The  Jaws  of  (fraiiil  Canon  of  tlu-  Coloniilo. 
(Iiir  Sla^e-Coiii'li  Crossing  the  Santa  hie/.    . 
MaKUolia  .\venne,  Riversiile,  California, 


fAnn 

in 
in 

IM 
IM 

m 

IM 
117 

i« 

liO 

isn 
1.10 
1:11 
1:11 
i:n 
inn 
1:14 
i;n 
i:ia 

KIT 

i:i<i 
i:in 

HO 
Ml 
14-J 
lU 

m 

141 
I4S 
1411 
147 
I4fl 
1411 
ISO 
131 
131 
ISII 
IS4 
ISS 
I  SB 
ISO 
lA* 
157 
1S8 
ISO 
100 
101 


1.1 


S'P  OF  II.MSTU ATIONS. 


Till' ''.ii//ly  triMiil,  Miirii"i-ii  Ciriivi',     . 

\ti  lilil  MisMdii  llmiM',  ('   liliiiniii, 

IIimIiiI  Viil  I'lilln.  VoM'iiiiU', 

l.li  k  Oli-irviiliirv.  nil  Mdiiiit  lliiiiiill<iii, 

I'M  Cn)>i|jiii,  V(i»i  iiiitf  I'litk, 

(•iir<li-M  u(  rnlitiH  tit  lihlit).  Ciitihiriiia, 

v.. mil  l-.ill. 


Ml  1.. 


I''..lllklill   Uiirk, 


III  I'l 


III  CI  If   lloiiii'.  CmIIIii 


Clinlcr  rmtit,  Vimitniu-. 

Iii>;  Tu  I'H  ill  llie  M,iii|iiihii  I'tiri'Ht, 

Vi  ma 

MitlMl 


I  l'all».  ViiMiiiili', 
l.iiki' 


t'llUtl- 

Illilloni'tti'  I'alls  ami  Siailli  Ilniiii  ,  Vioriiiilr 


IT 


r  I'aM  aili .  Hriilal  Viil  I'all".  Viw  iiiif 


Sriiliml  kill  k  Wrapiird  in  a  CUni.l,  Yu~iiiiiU 
TlifTiini,  ill  Cliiliiiialiiii  I'alN,  ViiHiiiiiti', 
ViMi'tiiitf  Valliy,  lidiii  Artistn'  I'oiiit,  VuMiiii 
All  Iniliaii  lliirial  Si'affiilil,  Nt'vailii, 
Half  Diiitu' ami  Cliiiiil'H  Ki'^t,  Yiisiiliitc, 
Cavt'  Kiii'k,  l.aki'  Tallin',  Calidiriiiii, 
Till'  Si'iitiiitl  ill  N'o^iinili'  Park,    . 
Casiaili'  Hriilj;iuii  till' Siiriat, 
Callli'ilral  Riak-,  Yc-iilliili', 
Iliatlicr  Lake,  Calironiia,  ,         ,         , 

Till'  M<iiiiitaiiis  aliiiiit  I, like  Talinr.  Califiirnia 
Till-  Hiiiw  111  l'.\  Caiiitiin,  N'osfiniti'. 
W'ajiiiiiKoail  tliriiiiv.h  mil' I'f  tlif  Hi^  Tiu'h. 
In-  I''iiillialiiill  at  I'ocit ..(  Itriilal  Veil  I'alU, 
Ni'V.iila  I'alU,  Vi 


run  1 1' 


IliiiiTU-r  l.akr.  California, 

A'-issi/.  Coltiinii.  \'usciiiiti', 

TaHsaK*'  Armiml  C'apt'  Morn,  CaliliM-iiia, 

Snow  .SliovfliTs  Cuttinj,'  a  l(I«u-kaile,     . 


IT  Vnsi'initi' 


I'alU 


W'inU' 


Anil 


riraii  Kivrr  Cation,  California, 


Rotary  Siiow-I'low  in  Action,    . 

Ili^h  .Sit-rras  and  Snsii*  I.aki-,  California, 


i>r 


■•r  Ca-c.i'U*  of  Cliilniialnii  l-'alU,  N'o^t'initt- 


Najaipii  l-'alU,  Califor,iia, 
Intriior  of  a  .Snow-Sin  il  in  tlu- Sii-rras. 
Mount  Sliavta,  front  ,Sis.;ons,  California, 
Sai-r.inifnto  Canon,  Califotnia, 
MossliriL*  l''alU,  Sai-raiiU'iito  Rivi'r, 


Sdilii  Springs,  Sacr 


Mto  Cai1o 


.Stniwiialian's  l-*alls.  Mount  IIooil, 
MultiiHiniali  r'alls,  Ori'^oii, 


Hl-J 

laa 
m 
itin 

I  nil 

1117 

I  UN 

mil 

170 
171 

Vi 

i":i 
IN 


1711 


I7N 

nil 

ISII 
ISI 

ifiii 

IHI 


I  Ml 


M 

1NM 
IMi 

I  Ml 

mil 
1111 

101 

iiiii 
iiiii 
iiti 
iiifi 
I  mi 

1117 
IDS 

nil) 

21 II I 
■Jill 
iUI 


W'illaimttr  I'alU.  (iriyi 


Palli- 


if  till'  ColiinilM.i 


Natural  Pillarn,  Colnnil 
Tlir  Cialir  of  Mount  ll^ 
tin  till'  Roiiti-  to  Cr  itir 
I  inionta  t'loriji',  Ciilninl 
Roost,  r  Koik,  Coliinil.i 
CiiHiaili'H  of  tin-  Colnnil' 
Cratir  I,  iki'  ami  Wi/an 
Anions  llic  ClomU,  on  '. 
,Srnii'  on  ColninlMa  Riv 
CliffH  aroiiml  Cratir  I,a 
(Irotti)  ill  Ciatir  J.aki-, 
I'ali-ail'.  1  of  till'  Coliini 
liri-at  Cilariir  in  til-  Si- 
\  I'i-liWIinl  on  till'  C" 
I'.rrik  Clinnlt  III  Jiinra 
Siiniiiiit  of  Mount  St.  II 
Top  of  Mnir  Cilai'ii'r,  A 
Cii'iasM'  111  Mnir  <  llafii 
Catlii'ilr  il  Roik,  on  Col 
hiilian  Iliirial  llousi's,  i 
llriiik  of  Siioi|ii.ilinii'  I'i 
Siili'  Vii'H  of  till'  Ciriat 
I.atonrillc  I'all  i.  Oii'no 

\  Vil'M  of  Mount  llianl 

I  tnatilla  Inilian  Camp, 
Iml.aii  Rivi'r,  .Maska, 
Mountain  iii-ar  Mnir  CA 
Call'  ill  till'  t'.ii'at  (thu'l 
Si-'-     •  ■  l''all^,  Mritisli  A 


,>f  Mnir  ('il.ii'iir. 


Viil 


am' I 


if  K 


I'.a-an  ,iiii 


Cliristiiu'  I'.ilU,  .\laski 
Takii  (ilai'iir,  .Maska, 
naviilson's  (>larirr,  Hrit 
Till'  Tool  at  llallir.  llriti 
Ili'vil's  t»ati',  HeaviT  C.i 
.Spokani'  I'alU,  Wasliin 
Nutivi'  C.irU  of  Hawaii. 
Kanfolu'  I'ark,  .Samlwii- 
Kakalii'ka  l-'alU,  Tlininl 
Till'  Royal  I'.ilai'f,  lla« 
Snow-Slii'ilsoii  till'  Can 
Kiini'stont'  Hlnffs  of  tlit' 
Kananaski's  I'alls,  Hrit 


I'rrwon, 
li.i  Rlur, 
I' "I, 

I..iki',  1  iti'^oii. 
lia  Rlvrr, 
1  Rivir,     . 
ia, 

I  Malhl,     , 
Moiinl  II0...I. 
I'r,     , 
k,', 

laa. 

Ikirk  Mount. liiii, 

iliiinliia. 

n,  Al.iskii, 

!i'l.n'.. 

laska, 

'r,  ... 

nniliia  Rlvrr. 

ii'ar  Jiillian,   \l.isk;i 

ilU,  ( iri'^oii,     . 

Cilarii'r, 

n,       . 

Oii'Koii, 

ai  iir, 

I'r, 

itnrrii'a, 

Totrin  Toll's. 

tisli  .Vmi'rii'a, 
>li  -Vmri  ii-a, 
fion.  Itritisli  .\inrri 
Kton, 

h  IslamU, 
IT  Hay, 
aii,     . 

ailiiin  rai'ilii', 
rjipi'r  Missouri, 
isli  .Anii'rioa. 


•.'li'J 


ail,". 


■i(KI 


•.i|"> 


•.'III 
■Jll 


L'li: 


■iiti 


ja, 
2'JII 


2.111 


2:i'.' 


•.•:m 

L'.'IB 

■jiie 

237 

2:ts 
2:10 

2'<0 
241 
242 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATION'S. 


Clt'opiitra  ant!  JiipitiT  Vt-rrat-i^.  \'tIli>\vsloiu-  I'aik 

Cafinn  of  Misstmri  Kivcr.  .... 

rulltit  Ti'rrav't',  Yi'Uowslitm- r.iik. 

U.iitlbow  I'alls,  Molilalia. 

I.iltU- Jupilt-r  Tt'rraci*.  Vt\lii\\>ttiiif  Paik. 

Slnioi'-Box  Canitti.  Moiilaii.i, 

Coatuil  Spritli^s  Ti'iract*.^.  VfIIu\v.tniu'  Park. 

I-!chi>  Canon  I'alls,  MoiUaii. 

I.inu'stoiu'  IlttotKios,  VtllousioiK-  Talk, 
Natural  Ca^tli-.  Shiirt'-Mox  Canon.  Mont.ma. 
Hynini  Tfiraci-s.  Vi-llowstollf  Paik, 
Clcojulr.!  anil  jiipitt-r 'I'lTraci'S.  N't-llowstoiir  I'ai 
JupilirTi'rrai'o,  Vfllowstoiie  I'lrk. 

Ill  till'  lUlt  Valli'v.  Moat.in  1 

Till-  ColiU'li  ("lali-.  VfllowstoiH-  I'avk. 
I.iltt-Tty  Cap,  VoUowstom.'  Park. 
I-;\i'L'lsior  Ci-ySLT  ill  .\ction. 
Cupi.l's  Cavt'.  VfllowslolK-  Park. 
Olil  I'aillifiil  Cn-ysir  in  .X.tion, 
Rnstic  I'alls.  CoM.-i    C.it.-  Road, 
Cooking;  I'isli  in  tlu*  Collf  of  .a  Ctyst-r. 
Keauly  Sprin.i;  I'onii.ilioii,  Vi-llowsloiif  Paik. 
General  View  of  the  N<trris  Hasin  ("teysers, 
Crystal  CaseaiU-.  \'ell<i\vstolie  P. irk. 
Crater  of  Castle  (leyser,  Yellow stoif  Park. 
Gihlton  I'alls,  Vcllowstone  Park. 
Graml  Canon  (tf  the  Yellowstone. 
Yellowstone  River,  near  Mini  Geyser. 
Tower  I'alls.  VelKnvstone  I'ark, 
Petrifieil  Tree  in  the  Ila.l  I.amls.  Dakota, 
Hiscuil  Itasin.  Velhiwstrme  Park, 
Crater  of  Olihrnn  Geyser,  Yellowsti>lle  Park, 
Hasaltic  Canon  of  Vellnvvsloiie  Kiver, 
Limestone  Pinnacles  in  Hi);  Ilrrii  Canon, 
.\  Horse  Rain-li  on  the  l.iltle  Missouri, 
Grotto  Geyser,  Yellowstone  Park,     . 
Hanest  .Scene  on  the  I)alrynii>le  I'arin    liakoi.i 
I.oll'"  Star  Geyser  Cone,  Yellowstone  P, irk. 

.A,IIarvest-lielil  in  (lakot; 

Black  Growler  (Veyser.  \'ellowstone  Park, 
I.ittle  l-ire-IIole  I'alls.  Yellowstone  Park, 
-All  Ivainpnieiit  of  Sioux  Inili.ans,    , 
Kepler's  Cascade,  Yi-llowslom^  Park, 

lllackfeet  Iniliati  Camp 

Tfiant,  Citlish,  ami  Yoiin^j  l-aithfiil  Cones, 
.\  W'i^'wain  on  the  I.oiu-ly  Prairie,     , 


i'\r,i-: 

•Ji:: 
■J  1 1 

■Ji."i 
•J  Hi 

•.'17 

•J  Is 

3I!I 
■J."ii 
L'.-|l 


•ji'iii 
•Ji;i 

•>M 

2ii.'i 

•ji;i; 
•.'(Is 


■>:.t 
•j:i 


2711 
I'su 
■J>;i 


2SI 
2Sl 
•.'v."i 
■Jsti 
•J>*7 


I'eiry  .\cross  Rett   River  i>f  the  North. 

Dells  of  the  Sioux  River. 

I.'iMr'a  Leap,  Sioiix  Ri\er, 

Devil's  Notch.  Sioiix  River, 

Dandier  Rock,  Sioux  River. 

Sij;nal  Rock,  h:ikhorn  Canon, 

C. linnet  tVorjje,  Sioux  River, 

NeeiUe  Points,  Custer  Park, 

Cathedral  Rock,  lilk  Creek  Canon, 

Suinillitof  Ilarnev  s  Peak,Iilack  Mills, 

\ie.v  of  liiar  P.ntlc,   Dakota, 

llarne>'s  Peak,  Hl.u  k  Hills,      , 

Tile  Horseshoe,  ill  l\lk  Greek  Canon. 

\Vedi;e  Rock,  near  Custer  City, 

llcecher  Rocks,  near  Custer  City, 

.\  CllalllluT  in  Crystal  Cave,     . 

The  Cliani-cl  in  Crystal  C.ive. 

De\  il's  Thiiinh.  Custer  Park,     . 

Dexil's  Chair,  St.  Croix  River. 

Devil's  Tower  on  Ilelle  I'onrche  Rivi-r. 

Tea-Tahle  Rock,  Wisconsin  River, 

Dome  Rock  in  Ciisicr  Park.  Itlack  Hills. 

.Sijnaw's  Chamber,  Dells  of  the  Wisconsin 

The  Narrows,  Dells  of  the  \\'isconsiii, 

Castle  Tower.  Dells  of  the  Wiscinisill, 

Cr.iw  Unite,  near  Crawford,  Nebraska,     . 

Sk\li>;ht  Cave,  Dells  of  the  Wisconsin, 

Hawk's  Hill,  Dells  of  the  Wisconsin, 

Month  of  Witches'  Gnlcli,  Dells  of  the  Wise 

St.  .\ntlioiiy's  I'alls,  .Miiinesol.i, 

I'iiiries'  Retreat,  Dells  of  the  W-sc,msiii,      . 

Whirlpool  Chamhcr,  Delis  of  the  Wisconsin 

Witches'  Gulch,  Dells  of  the  Wiscimsin, 

Minnehaha  I'alls  in  Sniiinivr,  Minnesot'i 

RiMiiaiice  Cliffs,  Dells  of  the  St.  Croix, 

Signal  Rock,  near  Camp  Douglas,    . 

Minnehaha  I'alls  in  Winter. 

Hornet's  Nest,  Dells  of  the  Wisconsin,    . 

Cleopatra's  NeeiUe,  Devil's  Lake, 

Cleft  Rock,  Devil's    Lake, 

Wa^joii  Hriil^e  over  the  St.  Croix, 

Chippewa  Indi.'ins  HniliiiiiK' a  Canoe, 

Ceremony  of  Initiating  a  Medicine  Man,     , 

The  Suvjar-Howl,  Dells  of  the  Wisconsin, 

Oiihway  Indiiin  Yilla^ie  and  (irave, 

Oconomowoc  I'alls,  WiscoiisMi, 


I'AC.K 

■^m 

280 

28fl 
290 
200 
2!)  I 
2;)2 
2!i:i 
204 
2D6 

2n« 

207 
298 
299 
300 
3UI 

;:n2 

303 
304 
305 
300 
307 
30H 
308 
308 
309 
310 
310 
310 
311 
312 
312 
312 
313 
313 
314 
315 
816 
310 
.116 
317 
318 
31D 

sao 
sai 

333 


LIvST  OF  ILLl'STRATIOXS. 


I 
^1 


lk'K'aK>i»"if;i   C'istli'.  Caiiip   ndu^I'i^*.  WiM-onsin 
Cnve  of  the  Dark  Watirs.  I.aku  Supt-.  ior. 
Mint'T's  I  alK,  I.akf  Supi-rioi, 
White  Hock,  I.akt' Superior.      .... 
Split   Koek,  Divil's   Lake,  Wiseotisiii. 


Thedhl*; 


rd.  Devil's  Lake. 


l''nlls  of  St.  I.onis  Uiver.  Ilritish  Aineriia, 


Kapi 


lis  of  Montreal  River.  Hritisli  America, 


(Viant's  Castle.  Camp  Doujjlas, 

Snjjar-I.oaf,  Maekiiiao  Islainl, 

Chimney  ami  llee  Koeks,  Camp  Douglas.     . 

I'alls  of  Miner's  Ki\er  in  Winter,  Lake  Snperior 

The  C:iseaile  in  Winter,  Lake  Snperittr, 

Si^;nal  Unrk,  Camp  Don;jlas.     . 

Nil>iK<^"  Kiver.  North  Shore  of  Snperior,     . 

Siiml  Islam!  .\reh,  I.akc  Snperior, 

Tlu-  Chapel,  I'ielnred  K<Hks,  Lake  Sniierior, 

Aliotle  *)f  the  C.enii,   Lake  Snperior. 

Cave-of-the-Win<ls,  Lake  Snperior, 

I'ixterior  View  of  the  Cavr, 

Hay  of    Islt'S.  Lake  Snperior, 

Princess  May.  Lake  Snperior,     , 

The  Sea  hilepliant.  Lake  Snperior, 


Tad-Lot  k  Islanil.  Lake  Snperior. 
The  trrand  I'ortal.  Lake  Snperior, 


Lake  View  o 


f  (iraml  I'ortal.  I,ake  Snp 


Ice  Palace  at  St.  Panl,     . 
Sti>rmin|j  the  Ice  Palace, 
Peter's  Pillar,  Lake  Snperior, 
Pigeon  Uiver  I'alls.  llrilish  Americ 


Ohll 


rut  Sne 


Ilii'K 


on  Mississi 


ppi  Riv 


Starveil  Knok,  nc  ir  Ottawa,  Illinois, 

Itnsin  Sprinj^'s.  I'*«reka  Spring's.  Arkansas, 

The  Lookout  on  the  Mississippi, 

Itarii  lilnff,  I'pper  Mississippi. 

View  of  I'ort  Snellinj;  from  the  Mississippi 

Ilanlin^  Spring,  Ivnreka  Springs,  .\rUansas 


Mn  I'alls.  fro!  i  Coal  Ishind, 


Ilri.Ial  Veil  I'all 


Niaj^arn. 


Hector  I'alls,  Watk  in's  C.Ien,  in  Winter,  . 
Cavern  Ciscaile.  Walkin's  » ',Un.  in  Winter, 
Tcrraceti  I'alls,  Walkin's  t'.len,  New  Vork, 


Watkin's  Cascade  I'ro/en,  .         .         .         . 

(lianl's  (lor^je,  l^'hatean^a  ■  Chasm,  New  Vork, 
Whirlpool  (',or^e.  Watkin's  C.len,     . 


Porllamt  Cascaile,  Ha\ 


1  r.lt'H,  New  Voik. 


r\i.i-: 

;tj:t 

Ml} 


;i*js 


:t.ii 
:(;ti 


:{;{s 


:tii 


:u« 


:UH 


.r.i 


I'eek-a-I.oo  I'alls,  Wal  kin's  *  >]rn, 
l'!a^U-  l"alls.  Havana  t'.Ien, 
Ctmneil  Chamber.  Waikin's  ('.li-n. 
tiiant  I'alls,  .\nsahle  Chasm.  Nt  \\  Vork, 
llri.lal  Veil  I'alls,  Havana  CUn. 
Llhow  I'alls,  .\usahle  Chasm. 


\ie 


[if  the  Thcmsand  Islamls.  St.  L 


iwretice 


I. lacks.  Ni 


Snmmitof  White-Pace  Monittain,  Adi; 
Ausahle  Kiver.  Head  of  the  Chasm, 
Kaaterskill  l-alls.  C.itskill  :\Ioiintaiiis,  New  V.trk. 
.Vnsahle  Chasm.  lU-low  the  Oviii, 


*iram 


1  Phi 


•  in  .Ausahle  Cha 


Ilo^^ir's  River  I'alls.  Adirondacks.  Nc 
Moui.t  Morris,  froni  Tupjur's  Laki 
Hnttennilk  I'alls,  .\cliroiidacks. 
.\diromlack  I.odj^e  ami  Char  Lake 


Nt'w  Vork. 


West  Point,  from 


a.Lile 


•  Ne-t, 


Rainlmw  I'alls  in  Winter.  Adirondacks, 
The  Hmlson  Narrows,  near  Peekskill, 
Surprise  Palls,  Adirondacks, 
Mrid.^e  over  Cden  l-alls,  New  Vork. 
Looking'  North  fnnn  West  Point.  New  Vork. 
Hreak  Ntrk  Hill  on  the  Hudson.       . 
Trophy  Card*  n,  Wi'st  Point, 
Storm  Kini;  Mountain.   Hudson  Kivi-r.     . 
Lonj^  (laller; 


iahle  Chasm, 


Winooski  River  C.orL^e.  \'ermont.      .         .         ,         .         . 

Tohojf^an  Slide.  Montreal 

Chautlierc  I'alls  in  Winter.  <*lta\\a,  Cmada. 
Montmorenci  I'alls.  near  CJuehec,  .... 

Winter  Carnival  at  Montreal 

St.  Anne  I'alls,  near  (JUL-liL-e, 

Scenery  alonj.;  the  line   >(  the  Can.nlian  Pacillc  Railwav. 
Winooski  I'alls.  Veiinont.       ... 
A  Svlvan  Stream  in  the  CTreen  Mountains. 


Pea 


idls,  C.rei.  m  Mount:iins 


Clarentlon  C»or>ie,  Vennont, 
Winooski  Kiver,  Vermont, 
\  Rural  Scene  in  Vermont, 


I'alls  of  the  AmniootM 
The  I'lunu',  I'rancouia 


M< 


;,  White  Mo 
uniains. 


Llephant's  Heail  and  Mtmnt  WiLslt-r, 

Cr.iwford  House  Ntitch 

Mount  Washint;tiui  and  Co-^-Wheel  Railr 
Sipiam  Lake,  New  Hampshire, 


lamjjshire 


rpper  Jackson  I'alls,  Wild  Cat  River.  Ne 

LiKht-House  in  IVatland  Harhor.  Maine. 

Tower  date,  Crawford  Notch,  New  Hani]>shire, 

MimH's  Lediie  Lii:!it-nouse,  off  Ci>Iiassi't,  Massaclu 

Prospect  from  the  Sunnr  t  of  White  Mountains,  New  Hampshire. 


l'\c.i.: 

:t-:o 
Kill 

:ti::{ 
;mi 


:ti;s 


;nm 


;*;i 


;t7i 
:t7-j 


:i74 


:tsi 


;ts-> 


:{'.n 


400 
401 

4lKt 

404 


i 


lO 


Coii-Wlu'fl  Kailwny  up  Mount  Waslniii^lnn.     . 
Monu:ni-ul  at  riyinouUi  Kiuk.  M;iss;K-hn'-iU'-.     . 
Olii  Towt-r  nt  Nowporl.  RIumU-  Isl.iiul. 

Cliffs  at  Ni'Upi.rt.  

l'ur;4att>iy  Cliasui,  tu-ar  Ni-wjinrt. 

Ni'i^io-IUail  C.ills,  lu-.ir  Ntwpoit. 

SuMiirs'  Monunu-nt  at  N\u-  Ilavi-n,  Coinuclunt. 

Hal.Mi.-.il  Uuok.  mar  riltslKlil.  Mas>ailni-t  tts. 

Cr.*^s  KiH'k,  mar  I'lllslU'lil.         .... 

A  Mixtcl  Train  frotn  tin.-  \Vil(krn».-sb. 

I'allitiy  Sprini;,  m-ar  Warm  Sj>rinj.;s,  \ir,i:iiii.i. 

Kanawha  I'alls.  West  \'ii>;inia 

Waiting;  for  Tiiuf  lo  Catch  I'p. 

Hawk's  Nt-st  ami  Cafiou  nf  tht-  Kaiiauha. 

("■alliraitl;  Spriiij;-,  M  I'-l  T«.-nm-sstr. 

Kails  of  NfW  Kivt-r,  \\\  st  \'irj:iuia. 

Passaj^c  of  thi-  I'rfUih  lUoail  Ki\  i-r 'riinup^h  the 

Vassaiif  of  llu'  Janus  River  Thrt'uj,'h  tlu-  Hlue  U'h 

Scene  of  Rural  I.ife  in  North  C.irolina.     . 

riouiietl  Illuffs  t>n  New  River.  West  ViiLiiuia, 

Olil  Man's  1-aee.  near  A>heville.  North  Carolina. 

View  of  the  I'ri'm  h  Ilro.ul  Riv^r.  ne.ir  A*he\  ille. 

C;e^ar's  Mi-ail,  r.hie  Riil,L.'e  Kan)u:e.     . 

Chinniey  Roek.  near  the  I'reneh  I'.toa'l  Rivt  r, 

a:  ove  tin-Clou.Nnii  :\Iiuhe:rs  Peak. 

Little  Rivi-r  Rapi'U.  North  Carolina.      . 

The  Summit  of  Mount  Miteliell. 

C.itlie'iral  aU'i  Throne  in  lauay  Ca\eiu.  \  iiLimia. 

Ihiilal  \'eil  I'alls,  I»inv,nnan's  l"irry,  Pi-ini'-x  1\  ain 

Ti*ani.i'-- \*eil,  I.uray  Cavtrns 

Coio>-.e'.!m   l-'.il'.-.    I'lnLiuians   I'eny. 

The  Itall  Room.  I. uray  Caverns 

I'aetnry  I'alls.  I)ini,'niaus  I't-rry. 

Saracen's  Tt-nt,  l.uiay  Cavern-',     .... 

C.i'leileiuau  I'. ill-.,  I  liu.^niau's  l\-rry. 

l-'.nni  Scene  in  the  \'al  ey  of  the  Slu  u.iinloah.    . 

Harper's  l-'erry,  from  Bolivar  Heiiiht-,     . 

HoseshiieCur\-e  at  Kiltauin^i,  I'l  nn-\  Ivani.i, 

I.iuie  Neck  of  the  Susipiehanna  Rlvt-r. 

Tiunli  over  the  Crave  ()f  Wa-'hiui^ton's  MoiI.m. 

Devil's   Den,   liatlle-tieM  of  C.ettyNlinrj,.. 

RouimI  Top,  overlooking'  the  Hattle-tieM  of  C.tUv 

.\  \"i!la^e  Scene  of  Ilappv  C'Mitf  ill  in  \'ir).;iu-.(, 

.■\ii  '  >lil  Cnluiiial  IIou^c  at  .\i)pomatlo\.  \'iiL;ima. 


LIST  OI"  ILl.rSTRATIOXS. 


i.ky  M. 
MdUlit 


■\i.i-: 
■lOtl 
407 
HIS 
lil'.l 

no 
411 

11-2 

III 
•iir. 
4li: 
117 
4IS 
4111 
4211 
4.;i 
l-J 
lil 
124 
42r. 

4Ji; 

427 
42S 

4211 
4:;ii 
4:11 
4:12 
4;i:; 
i:il 
i:i:. 
4:111 
4:17 
4:ls 
4:iii 
I  In 
411 
11:: 
III 
117 

ir.i 
4. 'ill 
4.",  I 

l.")2 
4.Vt 


I'ortrt'ss  Motiroi',  Virginia.         .... 
.All  old  Caliill  lloliie  ill  r.rori).,';!, 
IiMllllllHitiil's  I.iikt'.  ill  t.rfiit  Dislliiil   Swaiiiji, 
Old  I'ort  mill  Si'ii-Wall.  at  Si.  .\iiK'ustiiu-.  I'l.iii.l 
.\  IhiiiU  r'^  Caliill  in  the  Disiii.il  Sw.iinp, 
I'ulu'c  (Ic  1,1-im  Holt  1,  .St.  .AiiL^iistiiU',     . 
Htiiiavi'iitnrt'  t.\-iiiftt'rv,  Savannah.  trt<ii>^ia. 
nM  L'ily  Ciatis,  St.  .\nj;iistiilc. 
A  Ilniiu' ill  llu' Miuintaiiis  <il' I'tt'i^Tuia. 
.\liinlij;  thi'  raliiR'tl'  s,  (111  till'  Ualila\  River. 
Iliailof  H.ilif.i\  kiver,  iiliiive  Ornioll.l.  l-l   lida 
Avenue  itf  Miiss-Citvenil  Oaks,  near  Ornutii'l, 
ralnietto  Iliits,  near  Titiisville,  I'lurida. 
Kliliher,  nr  Ilan>'ail  4'rei-,  on  Hanana  Uiver.  I'lot 
.'n  the  Dee])  I'alinetlci  Siililliiles.  Inilian  River. 
Roekk-tl^i',  nn  Iiniiail  Uiver.  I'ioriiia. 
SiMMitin^  Ktuk.  near  Jupiter.  I'loriila. 
Orailyi'  t".ro\e  at  Roekledi,'e, 

Lake  OkeeelKtIiee.  I'hiri'l.l 

\  riile-Apple  I'.rene  at   I-jlen.  I'loi  ila, 

A  Caiii])  of  Coiismnpti\es,  near  Lake  Wortli.  1"1 

.A  Itanana  (Irene  in  I'loriila, 

The  One-Ox  Sllav  in  l-'h>ri<la, 

A  L'oeoainit  C.n.ve.  Hanks  of  Lake  \\'..illi. 

Seeiie  nn  llu- (*ekla\valia  Rivei,  I-'iniiila, 

Orange  I'tnue  lu  ar  I'alalka,  I'lornla, 

I-Aenrsi(in  I.aiiiuli  on  Run  River,  I'loriila, 

\  I'.illlletto  CI. iile.  n.-ar  I'alalka, 

Silver  S]plin,i;  :.nil  Oeklaw.iha  ,Sleainhoal, 

Home  of  Ihe  Oraniie-l'iekers,         ... 

St  ene  on  the  Siiuannee  River, 

.\  Hatne  in  the  .Shade  of  Southern  I'iiu-s.     . 

.\  Hapli/iil>i  in  the  Suwannee  Kivir, 

.\  Seetion  of  Dienville  I'.irk,  Moliile.     . 

.\\elllu- of  Tolnlis,  Wasllill^lDll  CeineUiv.  New  I 

.\  I'lanlation  Home  in  Mississippi, 

l'air\- I '.rotto,  Mammotll  L'ave.  Kentmky. 

Old  Stone  llcaise,  Al.ininioth  Cave, 

f.iiint's  Coflin,  MaimiHith  Ca\f, 

■|  he  llridal  Alt  ■•.  Mammoth  C.ive, 

The  Rivir  Sl\  \,  Mamniolh  Cavi-, 

.Moiinment  Moniitain,  in  Walhiee's  Iltni 


rle,iiiv. 


I'.iilranee  to  Pillared  I'alaii 
The  Throne,  Wvandotte  Ca\ 


\Vi 


lilotle  C.ive, 


lotle  C. 


I'.M.U 

4.M 

455 
4.*ill 
4.-i7 
4.-i8 
4.1!t 
411(1 
4lil 
4111 
4li:i 
4(14 
415 
40(1 
4fi7 
48S 
401) 
470 
471 
472 
47.1 
474 
475 
47(1 
477 
47,S 
471) 
4S0 
4Sl 
4S2 
4NI 
4  a 
4K.-1 
4SII 
4-i7 
4S>1 

4s;i 

4111 

4!i:t 

4115 
4U7 
4IIII 
5(M) 
Tilll 
.-ill'J 


LIST  OF  CAMERAGRAPHS. 


SIIOSIIONIC  Tt'NNi:!..   CANON   Ol'   C.R AND   RIVI:R, 
CI. II  IS  or  Till-:  C.RANl)  C^NON    ol-'   Till-;   COI.OU.Mio, 
A    CACTI'S    (',ARI)I:N    in    SoI"|ili:RN    C  M.ll'ORNIA. 
SITKA    ItAY,    .M.ASKA 


s| 

li-.:i 


\\'Inti;r  .\t  niac.ar  \.    .      .       . 

III-I.I,   C.A'n-:,    AI'SAIlI.l-,    <  IIASM, 
N.VTIRAT,   ltRllii',1-;   Ol-   \l|.;i,INl\, 
\VINTI:R    IN    1-I.ORIUA, 


P.*rl>r 

:i.-.o 

»(U 
4-iO 
470 


fA(.H 

435 
4.'ili 

jr.; 
4r,!i 

4li() 

4lil 
4iii 
4ii:i 

1114 

4;r> 

4(iU 
4«7 
4liH 
4fll> 
4T0 
471 
47.! 
47:t 
474 
47J 
47« 
477 
47S 
1711 
4K() 
1^1 

|S2 

4M 
4  4 

4M 
4Mi 
4";7 
iss 

4s:i 
I'.H 
4!i:i 
4!pr. 

4117 

4ii:) 

."illO 

.-.(11 


I'M-.' 

:i:i(> 

i-.'o 
4Ti: 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 

The  most  interestinif,  because  most  dix'ersifieJ,  country  in  tlie  world  is  America,  and  the  center  of  tiiat  unexampled 
interest  tieloni;;s  to  the  territory  comprised  witiiin  tlie  United  States.  The  castles  of  England,  crushed  by  the  hand 
of  time;  the  lochs  and  friths  of  Scotland,  that  murmur  to  the  sea  their  wails  of  the  Vikin>i  in\-aders:  the  lakes  and 
heaths  of  Ireland,  around  which  old  legends  hold  perpetual  carni\al;  the  Rhine  of  Germany,  whose  banks  are 
strewn  with  the  relics  of  feudalism;  the  Bernese  Alps,  tliat  flaunt  their  whitened  locks  like  a.ired  jiiants  taunting 
the  walled  cities  about  which  the  sound  of  battle  still  seems  to  linger;  the  red  jilare  of  Vesu\ius,  wrestlin^f  with 
fiery  wrath  in  mad  ambition  to  owrwhelm  the  cities  built  upon  her  ashes;  the  n)ar  and  blaze  of  /Etna,  that  growls  with 
the  \-oice  of  Pol\phemus  thirsting  for  the  life  of  Ulysses;  the  hills  of  Greece,  on  which  a  thousand  gods  held  C(Hincil;  the 
welling  breast  of  Mother  Nile,  carrying  to  the  sea  remembrances  of  her  ancient  children;  the  Holy  Land,  blooming  with 
sacred  memories  that  tlli  the  human  heart  with  fragrance;  the  mighty  peaks  of  Himalayas,  piercing  the  hea\ens  with 
frosted  heads  and  draped  with  the  fogs  of  centuries;  the  plains  of  Asshur,  where  Babylon  stood,  and  the  wrath  of  God 
was  kindled.  All  these,  and  more,  speak  with  siren  tongue  to  lure  the  trawler  and  gi\e  him  appetite  for  historx'.  But,  if 
we  except  the  associations  which  make  these  places  of  the  Old  World  memorable,  the  student  of  nature  will  tind  a  thdu- 
sand  greater  charms  in  the  picturesque,  grand,  marvelous  and  sublime  scenery  that  di\ersilies  our  own  countrx'.  No 
picture  has  ever  equaled  the  real,  and  no  book  has  e\er  \'i\idly  described  the  wonders  that  God  has  scattered  o\er  the 
American  landscape.  We  have  had  glimpses  of  mountain,  plain,  lake,  ri\er  and  canon,  but  the\'  ha\e  been  little  mt)rethan 
shadows  of  the  reality,  an  intimation  of  a  grandeur  almost  too  great  to  depict.  But  as  great  telescopes  ha\e  brought  wiihin 
our  \ision  surprising  views  of  other  worlds,  the  rings  of  Saturn,  the  seas  of  Mars,  and  the  burnt-out  craters  of  the  Moon,  so 
has  in\vnti\'e  genius  been  active  in  delineating  the  physical  features  of  the  earth,  and  through  the  perfection  of  photography 
we  are  now  practically  enabled  to  take  the  world  in  our  liand  and  examine  it  with  the  same  ci)n\enience  that  we  cai.  an 
orange.  Travel  is  no  longer  necessary  for  the  masses  in  order  to  behold  the  marvels  of  American  scener\-,  for  the  camera 
has  gathered  them  all  and  la\'s  ewry  inspiring  scene  upon  e\-en  the  poor  man's  table,  io  minister  to  the  delight  of  his  family 
circle.  But  photngraplu'  likewise  blesses  the  traveler,  for  study  of  the  picture  establishes  acquaintanceship  with  that  which 
is  represented,  while  accompanving  description  quickens  his  understanding  and  gives  a  more  intelligent  conception  of  the 
pictoiial  subject. 

It  has  been  my  good  fortune  to  make  man\'  trips  across  the  continent  ti\-er  the  \-arious  railway  lines;  and  business 
and  jileasure  ha\e  taken  me  during  the  past  several  vears  to  nearlv'  all  the  accessible  parts  of  the  countrv,  reached  by  rail, 
boat  or  stage-coach.  Always  an  admirer  of  nature,  I  have  longed  for  the  means  to  sketch  or  photograph  the  imposing 
scenery  which  caught  my  enraptured  eye  as  I  hurried  bv.  This  ambition  prompted  the  realK'  stupendous  undertaking 
whose  fruitage  is  now  offered  to  the  public  in  all  its  deliciiais  tlavor,  in  the  form  of  a  book  as  herewith  submitted. 

How  the  photographic  views  herein  reproduced  were  obtained  may  be  thus  brietly  told,  and  is  well  worthy  the 
relation:  This  book  was  conceived  more  than  half  a  dozen  vears  ago,  but  a  press  of  other  engagements  caused  a  postpone- 
1 1 


12 


AMERICA'S  WUNDEKLANDS. 


I      ' 


mont  of  any  ottntt  at  its  preparation  until  tlio  sprini:  of  1890,  ulion  tlie  puiijishors  LMi^a^cd  a  iTorps  of  artists,  consistinj^  of 
tliroe  of  tlio  best  iiut-door  pln)to;j:raplK'rs  in  the  countrx'.  A  passen;jier  ear  was  next  eliartered,  \\liii.li  was  remodeled  so  as 
to  proxide  eomfortable  sleeping  quarters  for  the  men  in  one  end,  a  kit^'hen  in  tiie  oilier,  while  the  center  was  fitted  up  as 
an  operating-room  for  takint;,  dewlopini;  and  tinishiiii;  pietures.  Three  eameras,  of  as  man\'  sizes,  were  also  pro\'ided,  with 
three  thousand  prepared  plates,  and  a  :j;reat  quantity  of  paraphernalia  which  mijit  be  found  useful  for  the  expedition. 

Thus  equipped,  our  photO!j;raphic  party  left  St.  Louis  early  in  May,  ^oins;'  directly  west  to  Denver,  from  which  point  we 
made  excursions  to  all  the 
near-l>'in,i:  parks,  thence  to 
Manitou,  and  b\-  wa\-  of  the 
Coll II ado  Midland  to  Salt 
Lake.  Our  work  abnut  Salt 
Lake  occupied  considerable 
time,  and  after  lea\  in,u'  there 
we  proceeded  to  Weber 
Canon  and  th'.-n  b\-  way 
of  the  Union  Pacific  to  Sho- 
shnne  Falls.  We  next  re- 
turned by  way  of  the 
Den\er  and  Win  Grande 
kailmad,  makiiv.r  a  sweep 
southward,  throu:;h  Ouray 
and  the  Valle\-  of  the  Gun- 
nison, o\er  Marshall  Pass 
and  to  Pueblo  by  wa\'  <>] 
the  Royal  Gnr-i.'.  Our  pan\' 
di\'ided  se\  era  I  times  in 
order  to  cover  the  territory 
more  expeditiou'^ly,  and  in 
makinu  tlie  trip  into  N.'w 
Mexico  one  part  entered  by  ^  rwiiiv  hi   i-rrHH)  indiw-.   n;  w  Mi\ir,(X 

way  of  Trinidad  from  F'ucblo  and  the.ither  traveled  directly  south  thioii-h  Anioniin.  |nrmin:j;  a  junction  auain  at  Sante  Fe. 
Some  weeks  wore  sivnt  trawling  off  the  line  of  road  aiiionj;  the  ruined  \ilLmes  of  theClifl-Dwellers,  and  in  photo- 
uraphin-  tlie  more  ru-u'ed  scenery  of  the  Rio  Grande  River.  Then  we  continued  our  iourne\-  westward  owr  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacilic  and  the  Southern  Pacilic  Railroads  to  California,  where  nearly  three  months  were  sjvnt  anions  the  town-^,  Yosoniite 
Valley.  Biii  Trees  and  mountains  of  that  summer-land.  On  the  appearance  of  sprinir  we  trawled^north  by  way  of  the 
Calilornia  and  Oregon  Railroad,  still  makiivj;  side  trips  bv  sta-e -coach  and  wa^jon,  to  I'ortland.  In  mi  which"  point  excur- 
sions were  made  up  the  Columl'ia  and  Willamette  Ri\ers.    At  Victoria.  British  Columbia,  we  took  sieaiiicr  for  Al  i4<  1  and 


AiMhhica's  wonderlands. 


rotuiniii^  wo  passed  tlimuL'li  tlio Casc;klo 
Kaiij:e  ()\er  tlie  N(jithfrn  Pacific,  work- 
in>:  iiur  way  back  cast.  But  wo  con- 
tinued to  make  dot'iui-;  a  limy;  way  off 
tiu'  main  line  of  ](kw\,  thus  \isitin!j;  tiie 
Falls  of  the  Missouri,  the  Black  Hills, 
the  Custer  battle-field.  Devil's  Tower, 
and  Yellowstone  National  Park,  in  which 
latter  Wonderland  we  spent  two  weeks 
photo;j;raphin>4  its  scenerwind  extraordi- 
nary formations. 

More  than  three-fourths  of  the 
;j;randest  \iews  were  inaccessible  by 
rail,  so  other  means  of  tra\el  had  to  be 
adopted.  Often  it  was  by  sta^ie-coach, 
but  frequently  d(jnkeys  were  our  sole 


13 

reliance;  and  when  these  little  animals 
could  not  carry  us  to  the  most  rui^i^^ed 
points,  we  shouldered  our  instruments 
and  scrambled  to  the  peaks  and  abysses 
of  necessary  obserx'ation.  The  difficul- 
ties, dangers  and  hardships  thus 
enc()untered  were  both  ^reatand  numer- 
ous, while  the  expense  invoKed  was  so 
far  beyond  (»ur  first  calculations,  that 
had  it  "been  anticipated  in  the  bejiinninij; 
the  enterj-irise  would  certainly  nexer 
ha\e  been  undertaken. 

We  resumed  our  eastward  journey 
thence  to  Superior  Lake,  Dells  of  the 
St.  Croix,  rapids  of  the  Wisconsin,  lakes 
and  waterfalls  of  Minnesota,  tlie  Upper 


nOVERNOR'S  RESIDENCE,  Pl'ERI  O  OF 
TESUyUE,  NEW  MEXICO. 

Mississippi  N.rou>ih  Lake  Pepin,  and 
back  to  St.  Louis, the  entire  trip  occup\- 
in^  more  than  eighteen  months. 

Our  camera  car  had  ser\ed  our  pur- 
poses in  a  most  iiratifyin;j;  manner  while 
makinjj;  the  lony-  tour  of  the  West,  but 
in  the  eastern  tour,  which  remained  to 
be  performed,  it  was  considered  that  the 
car  would  be  of  no  special  ad\anta:j:e, 
since  accommodations  are  so  much  more 
easily  obtained  in  the  built-up  sections 
of  the  East  than  in  the  thinly  and  some- 
times totally  unsettled  districts  of  the 
'\VHAi.E-BACK"BOATofthe  NORTHERN  LAKES.   West,  where    in    manv  cases  our  car 


THE  URNS,   MANITOU  PARK. 


3    ( 


'(' 


I.)  •  AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS 

was  our  only  sheltor.  TIio  journoy  oast  was  K>y:un  in  OctolxT,  from  St.  bniis  to  Cliica^o,  thonce  to  Niagara  Falls,  and 
thon  up  the  St.  Lawivnco.  (kw  inuto  noxt  lay  throu.s:ii  tJR'  Grvi^  and  Wliito  Mountains,  and  dIIkt  famous  sections  of  the 
New  England  States;  tiience  west  into  tiie  Adirondacks,  Moliawk  Val]e\-  and  Lakes  Geoive  and  Chaiiiplain,  then  down  the 
picturestiue  Hudson  into  the  Cat>kilis.  Continuinj;;  our  journey  southward,  we  \isited  tiie  i-^oints  of  >iran,'est  scenery  in 
Virginia,  North  Carolina  and  Eastern  Tennessee,  and  then  pruce.'ded  ui  to  Flnrida,  where  a  part  of  th'.' winter  was  spent 
photo;^raphin:j;  exerythiui:  worthy  of  a  jMace  in  this  \oluine.  Un  the  return  trip  Mammoth  Cave  in  Kentucky,  and 
W'yandoite  Cave,  in  Indi- 
ana, received  our  aueiiiion, 
as  well  as  cither  interesting; 
places  aiiiiii:  the  way,  and 
early  m  Fehruar\'  our  labnrs 
were  ended  by  a  return  to 
St.  Louis  to  jHit  th.e  results 
in  book  fnrin.  Nearly  all 
the  descripti\e  writing  was 
done  while  mir  part\'  was 
on  the  wa\',  and  wiiile  tlie 
inipressiiins  jMMduced  by 
the  iilorious  \isions  were 
fresh  in  the  author's  mind. 
This  w  ..k,  accordingly,  is 
practically  one  df  inspira- 
tion, the  will  lie  constituting 
a  st'iry  Lif  e.\traordinar.\'  in- 
terest  and  a  hist(jry  nf 
incomparable  \alue. 

Illustrations,  howi'xor 
line,  whether  of  wudd  or 
steel,  represent  the  artist's 
conceptions,  dashed  with  an 
indi\'idual  colorin;j;  that  pre- 


ON   THH   nr.KI  AW.\II\    KIVRR,    FI.ORinA. 


wnts  a  natural  reproduction.  The  painter  sketches  his  landscape  from  a  special  point  of  \iew,  and  working  many  days 
blends  the  sunrise  with  midday  and  sunset,  the  mists  of  morning  with  the  clouds  of  noon,  thus  strivin;;;  to  please  the  eye 
rather  than  to  truthfully  present  nature,  withmu  artificial  adornments. 

Photojiraphy,  on  the  other  hand,  is  the  mirror  which  retlects  nature  in  all  her  changeful  moods:  the  absolutely 
faithful  reproducer  of  her  e\ery  aspect,  exhibiting:  her  in  her  e\er\-d;!\-  garb,  noting  the  disfigurements  with  no  less 
lidelit\-than  the  sublime  graces  which  she  exhibits  and  all  the  widelv  di\e;sitied  physical  features  which  render  her 


AMERICA'S  WONDEKLANDS. 


IS 


countonanco  so  \-ari:il")lo  that  adiiiiri.'r  and  scoffVr  aliko  find  ivasun  for  up^inu  tlK-ir  claims.  No  other  attempt  has  ever  been 
made  to  so  perfectly  picture  the  wdiuievs  of  America,  and  tlie  wi>rl<  has  been  so  thorou<4hly  accoiiiplislied  that  it  is 
conlidently  belie\ed  no  one,  ho\\e\er  j^reat  his  ambition  or  ia\ish  liis  expense,  will  be  able  to  add  anythiny;  to  the 
completeness  of  our  undertakiiv^,  as  iiere  submitted,  \\hate\er  ma\' be  the  measure  of  deser\in^  of  the  desciptixo  part 
of  this  boi)k,  certainly  the  phuto;j;raphic  illustrations  are  worthy  of  all  praise  as  fLill'illin;^  the  conditions,  of  masterpieces  of 
American  scenery,  while  the  publishers  are  entitled  to  most  genenjus  public  recognition  for  concei\ing  and  so  liberally 

endowing  an  enterprise, 
which  has  flowered  in  the 
fragrance  and  beauty  of  this 
exquisite  worl:. 

It  is  seemb-  to  add  thai 
our  tour  was  made  wholly 
at  tlie  expense  of  the  pub- 
lishers. Free  transportation 
was  offered  us  o\er  all  tb.e 
railroads  on  which  we  tra\- 
eleu,  but  all  such  courtesies 
were  uniformly  refused,  be- 
cause an  acceptance  would 
ha\e  placed  us  under  obli- 
gations to  manifest  some 
fa\'oritism,  and  thus  inter- 
fere with  the  declared  pur- 
pose of  the  publishers  to 
issue  a  work  on  American 
scenery  in  w hich  the  \iews 
and  descriptions  should  be 
gi\-en  truthfulK',  and  with- 
out partiality.  We  therelore 
selected  the  routes  which 
piiMiiised  most  satistactory 
ON  THK  SUMMIT  OH  MOUNT  TACOMA.  of^v.c.oK  w^uk^,  witliout    regard  to 

personal  convenience,  having  in  \'iew  the  ambition  to  present  and  describe  the  most  interesting,  if  not  alwa\s  the  most 
famous,  scenery  of  our  country,  and  in  so  doing  produce  a  work  of  which,  all  Americans,  like  the  publishers,  maybe  justly 
proud.  In  this  our  celebrant  year  such  a  book  is  particularly  appropriate,  and  the  hope  of  the  publishers,  as  it  is  of  the 
author,  is  that  our  ambitious  and  worthy  enterprise  may  lind  a  warm  v\'e!^ome  at  the  tireside  of  e\er\-  American  famil\'. 


V 


^lylUll^^^ 


h 


VIEW  OF  FORT  WRANGEL,  ALASKA. 


i 


CHAPTKR  I. 

AMONG  THE  WILD  SCENES  OF  COLORADO. 


f 


'■  <  lO  a1iri>:nl 
r|uin  llu'  iiatlis  of  Niitiirc.  iiml  wluii  all 
Its  voifi's  whispiT,  ninl  its  silt-tit  tliiiij;s 
An*  lirt-atliitij^  tile  di'ip  mystery  (if  the  W'orltl. 
Kiicel  at  its  ample  altar." 

'NTHrSIASMsoiiictiines 
cxa(,'H:iT:il(.s  tln'  Riility, 
just  as  c(il(jr<.(l  j;la.ss 
confuses  the  sij;lU;  but 
when  it  serves  to  ])lease 
"^  without  (loiiijr  harm, 
the  fault  may  be  pardoned.  To 
the  entlmsiasiii  of  tlie  occasion, 
and  our  fjreat  and  nnicine  enter- 
prise, may  tlierefore  he  char^jed 
the  hurst  of  admiration  tiiat 
manifested  onr  fecliiifjs,  when, 
rolling";  aioni,'  tlie  prairies  on  the 
Union  Pacific  R,  R.,  we  saw, 
risinjr  far  to  the  southwest, 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  aw.iy, 
the  broad  shoulders  of  Pike's 
Peak,  hreakinj,'  into  rnsset 
above  the  clouds  and  showinjj 
a  head  of  saffron,  mellowed  by 
the  soft  rays  of  a  stin  just  fallinj» 
into  the  deep  valleys  of  the 
Occident.  It  was  the  chief 
object  to  chain  our  attention  for 
the  while,  and  this  first  impres- 
sion awakened  most  delightful 

anticipations  of  the  work  which  lay  before  ns.  A  few  hours  later  we  were  in  Denver,  making;  f^nal  preparations  for  a  photographing  tour 
of  the  picturesque  West.  Fortunately,  our  arrangements  were  so  nearly  complete  tipon  leaving  St.  I.oiiis  that  oidy  a  short  stay  in  Denver 
was  necessary,  and  it  was  with  eager  desire  that  we  had  our  car  attached  to  a  Union  Pacific  train  and  started  for  the  heart  of  the  Rockies. 
The  long  range  of  mountains,  rising  into  sharp  peaks,  and  again  spreading  their  tops  into  truncated  cones,  elbowing  and  pushing  each 
other  like  a  brigade  in  too  clo.se  quarters  at  parade-rest,  are  only  fifteen  miles  from  Denver,  fonning  a  grand  background  to  an  immense 
17 


PIKE'S    PEAK    FROM    COLORADO    SPRINGS. 


i8 


AMlvRICA'S  WONDHRI.AXDS. 


expanse  (ii  |ii.iivii.'  l.iiulscipf.     St.iriiiij;  (ni  the  Culoi.iilo  CiiUral   Hr:iiu!i  nf  ilu-  riiinti   IVumIh-,  \vi' soon  pass  tlironKh  the  Riiti'-way  of  the 


Rockii's;  tluMU'c  on  •"  (loldcn,  a  luMiuil'iil  niinin,j  tnwu  that  iK>tli-s  in  tlu^ 
to  tlic  ;;\ianlian  jjoil  North  and  Sonth  Tal)lc  Moiinlains.      line  a  stnji 

is  mailc  lor  a  trip  np  Hear  Creek  Canon,  wliieh  is  reached  hy  stay;c,  li\ 
which  conveyance  the  traveler  is  trnndled  into  a  j,'"''K'-"  "f  snrpassiiij; 
beauty  and  noble  );randenr.  Thronyh  this  ^jreal  >;ash  the  water  (hishes, 
swollen  bv  nieltin;;  snows,  and  led  b\'  a  thonsand  sonrres.  ( >n  either  side 
the  fidwniny;  an.l  dnsky  walls,  we.uin^j  a  tortnoMs  wav  like  the  p.ith  of  a 
drnnken  j^iant,  re.ir  np  their  casiell  iled  heads  nntil  liiey  remind  ns  of  the 
walled  cities  of  Jerieiio,  over  which  jushna's  sjiies  were  lowered  by  R.di  lb. 
I  Only  a  few  miles  from  ( ".olden  is  Clear  Creek  Canon,  another  won- 

ilrons  eleavaf^e  wronj^hl  by  water  that  ^oes  tnndilinj;  thronxh  the  passa>;e 


with  ramble  of  bre.ikers  and  ro.ir  of  waterfa 
ri>e  iH-riiendicnlarly  to  \arvinj;;  lu-i,L;ht>  of 


Tl 


le  walls  o 


f  till 


j(il) 


iiiroacli  so 


near  to  e.ich  other  that  an  ob; 


.■p(MI  leet,  and  at  places 
ikiuy;  upward  from  the 
ca\ernons  depths  can  see  onl\  a  thin  strip  of  bine  sk\'.  Awav  np  on  the 
brows  of  the  jiarallel  cliffs  are  larjje  trees  that  look  like  feather  dnsters, 
and  little  streams  of  li(|ni(l  sil\er  apjiear  in  the  distance  to  be  ])onrin>f  their 
contributions  from  ere\iceand  apix  t<i  swell  the  mad  creek  that  rushes 
with  complaining;  \iiice  down  the  aye-swept  U'lf!^*^-  Alonjj;  this  water-bed 
was  tornierh-  the  roadway,  or  trail,  nsed  by  frei<.;hl-waHons  and  stage- 
coaches, bnt  it  is  n.iw  become  the  exclusive  tIl<>ronj,difare  of  the  Central 
IJranch,  so  that  the  niai^nificent  \it  w  which  the  canon  affords  is  before 
the  eyes  oi  railroad  travelers. 

Less  than  three  miles  from  ( "leortjctown  is  ( Ireen  Lake,  ;in  excpiisite 
body  of  w.iter  which  h.is  been  very  ap])roi)riatelv  lulled  the  Cicm  of  the 
Moinil.iin.  Its  translncent  dejiths  are  animate!  by  mv  riads  of  tront  that 
arc  tinned  by  the  j^Meen  waters  to  the  color  of  emeralds,  while  awav  down 
ill  its   profound    recesses  is  distin;,niishable  a  forest  of  stately  trees  which 


has  bi 
appe 


)een  swciit  into  the  lake 


•1 
MS  to  have  beei 


liv-  some  j^'laci.il   avalanche. 


Not  a  branch 


iroken  or 


a  iM 


sition  disturbed,  for  the  trees  stand 


their  ori.i;inal   ^;racetnlness,  bnt  tl 


ironjjli  calcareous 


boldly  n|)ri<;ht  ii 

depositions,  that  are  .i   pecnliaritv  of  this  lake,  thev  h.ive  bei'ii  converted 


into  stone. 


hns  It  IS 


lib 


forest  of  |ielrlfied  tiees 


I.ookiii},'  bevcMid  the  lake  we  perceive,  .simie  seven  miles  awav,  the 
the   summit  of  which   is   reached   by   the   hij.;hest 


famous  Ardent. I 


waj^on-road  in  the   world,   and  from  this   elevation  an  almost    boundU 
and  marvelon^ly  picturesque  view  may  be  had,  slretehiny;  away  to  the  west 
as  far  as  Holy  Cross  .Nbmnt,  and  eastwaid  to  the  prairies  of  K; 


Hut  we  have  now  reached  the  backbone  of  the  di 


msas. 


led  of  a  drie,l-ii[i  lake,  an  !  looks  np  with   ]ileasin>;  satisfaction 


ivide  and  our  tram 


MARSHALL  FALLS,  CI.EAK  CREEK  CAi^ON 


^ 


#.  '^ff 


'"  .^r 


ao  AMI'.RICA'S  W  (  )\1>i;RL ANDS. 

starts  .loun  ilu-  \m  .ii-m  «r:i(U',  dn-liii);  likf  ,i  li.iuk  oui  .,|  tlu-  >kv.     Ovrr  ininuiisi.  fills,  tliroiiKli  (liTp  cuts,  across  l.ri.l(,'i-s,  follnwinj;  a 

swilllv-ll..\Mni;  slK.iiM,  milil  ,il  kii«tli  wc  K:iili  tlk'  U\cl  v.illiv  .m,l  «..  (hisliinn  a«,i\  t<.  ( ;t.iMMnnl,  n,i  tln^  w.iv  t..  I.l.ilu.  Springs  aii.l  C.i'or;;.- 

ti.wii.      Ti)  avoid  tiiiuuliiiK  in  crossing  tlic  diviili-,  i1k'    luIkmcI  winds  aroiiiid  tlu'  iiimmiaiii  lUvatioiis,  up  a  sicip  niad  •,   over  a  way 

that  Ills  Imii  l.l.istid  out  »(  tlic  ttcitial  roiks,  until  Imui  ;iw.i\  iii>  tlic  lol'lv  sides  tlie  tiavikr  ni  iv  look  upon  ;i  siiiic  of  in.irvtlons  IkmiHv 

and  ru-'^idiKss  that  I'adis  into   indisliiutucss  niihs  hilow.      I.i'.ininv;  out  of  the  cir  wind.iw  wc  view  a  wondrous  panorama,  and   pause 

directl\-"u)  l-riiiu  our  eanuias  into  ii>e,  lh.it  the  seeiie  niav  lie  e.inuht  and   held  on  jiajier.     There  on  tnie  side  of  the  depths  is   Devil's 

('■ate,   in  close  iir..viniit\ ,  as  it  seeius,   to  llridal   Wil    I'.ills,   when    the  clear  ninniilaiu  stream  iiluu«es  over  a  i>reeipiee  of  ^;reat   lieiKlit 

to  join  the  Kamlioliun  creek  that  rushes  a\\;\\  im  its  eirand  liundreds  I'f  feet  below.      There,  too,  is  a  spider's  weh  of  steel,  eiyhty-six  feet 

llij-h,  that  has  served  as  a  p.issane-\va\ 

lor  our  train  across  ,i  chasm  Itiio  led 

wide,    wlii'si-    liiittom    cm    scareelv    lie 

distiniiiii^lud  lioiii  oiir  lofty  eniiiu  nee; 

hut    we    see    that    the    track    makes   a 

complete    loc.p,     and     th.it     the     in.id 

parallels  itself,  at  .1  const. mtlv   iiuie.is- 

inj;  grade,   no  Uss  tli.m   tlirei'  times. 

All    the    while    that   we    .iie    winding,' 

around   aiul   crossing   our   own    ii.uk, 

(leoryetown  continues  visilile,  Init  it  is 

dvv.irfed  liy  the  dist.iuce  to  the  appi.n- 

MKi.  of  .1  prairie-doj.;  \illa).;e. 

The  pictiiresi|iieniss  ol  the  rouK 
now  chan;.;ts  fr.  ni  v\ild  sei  uerv  of  loltv 
mountain  and  the  d, ilk  avve-cniieiH  s^  of 
deep  canon,  to  a  park-like  lalidsc.ilie, 
lhrouL;h  till.iMe  lands,  and  on  to  Silver 
I'lume,  ,1  (,'rt  ,it  feat  of  minini;  enijineer- 
illj.;,  and  he.iutifnl  hevond  dt  sciiptiou. 
Cir.iv's  Pe.ik  rises  like  a  ^'iaiil  phantom 
a  few  miles  heyond,  and  lieconus  a 
ch.inniny  sij.;i'.el  in  the  riiij,'  of  p.uk 
in<l  town  of  t'lraviuout  th.it  lies  near 
its  feet . 

Keturninj^  last  a  (list     "e  of  twenty  miles,  a  junction  is  reaclud  at  I'ork's  Creek,  where  another  hranch  of  the  Union  Pacific  leads  to 
Central  City  and   Black   lla'  Here  a  marvelous  thiny;  is  to  he  .seen:  The  two  towns  are  only  a  mile  apart,  measured  hy  a  stra!);ht  line, 

yet  .so  fearfully  riij,'},'ed  is  th  territory  to  he  traversed  that  the  distance  by  rail  between  the  i)laces  is  four  miles,  and  this  interval  is  covered 
by  mcms  of  a  "  Switch  Hack,"  so  called  because  of  the  tortuous  route  and  the  extraordinary  grades.  All  along  this  vicinity  are  famous 
mines,  and  a  wealth  of  miuini,'  machinerv ,  that  converts  the  country  into  a  «ia/e  of  industry,  and  the  mountains  into  smoking  mills  and 
cornncojiias  of  silver.  In  this  mountainous  region  all  roads  seem  to  radiate  from  Denver,  and  hence  to  reach  other  charming  scenery 
by  means  of  our  camera  car,  it  was  necessary  to  return  again  for  a  trip  to  (innnisun,  which  is  on  the  South  Park  Branch.     Hut  in  order  to 


T  » 


■      /•      •*  1 


.^i»lK^ 


CIIAI.K  CI  11  rs.  r.l.FAl'  CREEK   C.xSON. 


I' 


22 

facilitate  our  wdik  it  was  (kciikd  \<i  divide 
our  partv  ,  so  tliat  one  photoi;rai)lur  iiii.i;lil 
]Moeeeil  to  (■tiiimisou,  wliiie  the  (.tliertwo 
took  llie  nonli\vi.st  route  to  I'lstes  and 
Middle  I'.iii  .  wlure  a  lar.i;er  amount  of 
work  was  to  lie  done,  and  wliieh  eoulil  he 
reached  only  li\-  >t,i;'e. 

Co-'.iinnini;  our  tri].,  therefore,  towards 
the  southwest,  onr  fir>t  slop  was  in  I'lattc 
Canon,  which  is  twenty  miles  fnnn  IKimr, 
and  there  m.iny  e.\i|uisite  views  were  taken. 
This  c.jnon,  formed  hy  the  I'l.itle  River, 
rex-nililes  Cle.u  Cuek  Cu'ion,  lint  is  Ioniser 
and  .soniewh.il  wilder.  The  route  is  over 
Kenosha  Hill,  which  is  .Mplne  in  its  yrand- 
inr.  .mil  so  rn;^i;ed  til, it  the  ro.nl  is  as 
sinuous  as  the  tr.iil  of  .1  :erpeul.  The 
c.n'ion  s].riMM-.  .it  jiLices  until  it  runs  lie- 
Iweeil  .yr.idu.dly  slo])in;j;  steeps,  but  a^aiii 
the  walls  dr.iw  closer,  and  rise  ]ierpcndicu- 
l.uK  to  .1  sheer  luiLjhl  .1:  .i  thous.iud  feet, 
e\c!udin.i,'  the  suidi,;.;lu  exci'pt  as  it  is 
str.iined  .It  limes  tIiron,;h  a  n.irrow  rift, 
v.util  it  look-  like  a  pencil  of  li.L;ht  cieaviui,' 
the  ]).ill  of  niyht.  Wh.it  mi-htv  fiu'ees 
were  .ij.itlu  red  here  in  the  .:.i,'e  of  the  world's 
inf.iuc\  '  what  terrific  convulsions  and 
frenzied  spasin>of  nature  that  rent  in  twain 
the  e.irth's  envelope  .ind  left  canons  and 
nioinitains  where  once  were  Like  and  ]il.iiul 

.M-iul;  the  w,i\  n-.-lies  the  impetuous 
Pl.Ute  ki\er,  that  has  torn  ami  eroded  a 
Kieat  lis-iire  tliVMU,i;h  the  rocks,  and  in  so 
doinj^'h.is  left  ni,in\  wonderful  iucon.L;ruilies 
to  mark  its  c' ceutricitv  .is  well  ,is  power. 

I/onie  Kim  k  is  o.ie  of  the  consjiicnons 
curiosities  in  t'ie  c.iuon,  resendilinj;  as  il 
does,  the  to])  of  ,1  mo>i|ne  tli.it  has  sunk  inst 
behind  the  w.ill  of  beetlimr  cliff,  le.nin" 
a  jjraceful   ('oiuc  a-  is   burial  iiionumv;' , 


.XMKRIC.WS  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


\]'i,]\y\    |-\|  I  r^ 


■':m  :■:■:, ^^■*'-.  %^^^T^n^-^'  i'-i  ip    ^    1       " 

,».,«!.■"•,■(■.  "'■^T-  "^-'Ti^       '0.'..  1  .-aR         '     ^'Hiii 


O 

a 


p 


O 
in 


J 


O 

/) 

-li 


24  AMERICA'S  WOXUKRI.AXDS. 

Hut  all  .iliiiis;,  at   lr(.(|iii.nl  iiitiixals,  spins,  with  catludral  ])ro])orti')iis,  slioot  skyward,  leiulinj;  an  apiKMraiK-c  not  unlike  a  vast  row  of 

cliurclK's,  wIktc  \vc  ni  i\-  taniv  nature  \v()rslii])s,  ami  the  ro.ir  of  waters  is  a   perpetual  hvnmal  inxocation.     On  the  same  route,  fifty  miles 

from  Platte  Canon,  is  t!ie  Alpine  Tuanel,  which  is  reached  hy  the  road 

windin)j  about  a,ul  upward  until  a  hciylit  oi  ll.iUM)  iVct  is  gained,  when, 

snddeulv,  the  train  makes  an  ahrujit  turn,  .uul  le.ips  into  the  very  bowels 

of  a  mountain  from  which  it  emerges  alter  many  mimites  on  tlie  other  side, 

and  then  descends  towards  the  r.icifie.     This  tunnel  is  cnie  of  the  most 

remarkable  in  aT  the  world.      It  is  at  the  highest  point  ever  re. idled  by 

.:n\-  railio.id   in   America,  and  in  tiie  cei.ter  of  its   1,77;1   feet  of  leii<,'tll  is 

the  dividiuy;  line  of  altitude  between  the  two  oceans.      The  boriiii;'  of  this 

ini.t;ht\-  ch.inuel  not  only  iuvolved   the  naturally  stupeii'lj  is  lalim- of  dij;- 

giiii;  tliiouoli   a   tnountain,  but   the   work   was   rendered   a   hundred   fold 

more  dilTicult  1)\  reason  of  the  rare  atmosphere  in  which  the  workmen  had 

to  l.il>or.      In  addition  to  this,  7(t,0(M)  linear  feet  of  California  redwood  was 

recniired  for  the  inside  br.iciuj;,  and  this  had  to  be  bronyht  up  the  mountain 

side  on  the  backs  of  burroes,  the  cuily  animals  of  burden  that   ■onld  make 

the  ascent.      It   was  .i   remark. ible   uudertakin,i;;    its  accomplishment   was 

very  like  a  miracle. 

.\-i  ue  euurj;e  iroiii  the  tunnel,  and  cret^p  around  the  ]ierpc'idiciilar 
side  of  the  mount. lin  on  a  roadw.iv  baulv  wide  enoii<;li  to  accommodate  r. 


.;le  trj 


liii  of  cir>,  a  bewililerin 


y;ly  iiia.y;niricent  panorama  t>peus  to  us. 


.\w.i\  low.iid^  the  siiutliwot,  one  hundred  and  fiftv  miles,  wi 


»er\e  the 


ifty  and  re;.;ul.ir  he.ids  of  the  .'^.in  Ju.iu  raiit;e,  while  a  litlic  further  wi'st 
.e   ,ire   .dile   to  .listin.i;uish    rucompa.i;hre    I'eak,   that    looks   down   with 


)eni<jn 


liappy  valle\ 


lilt  aspect  upon  the  town  of  ( )ii 


r.iv. 


There,  too,  is  the  j.;recn  and 


if  the   (iuniii>on,    towards   the   end  of   which 


IClk 


.M 


onutaiiis  and  their  chief  pe,ik>-,  MomU  (ioiliic  and  Crested  Hulte. 


.\t  this  ,<.;veat   liei.i;hl  the  sUi 


l>acked  in  the  deep  crevices  all 


suinnier  thton,i;h,   while  upon  its  borders  m.iy  be  seen  beautiful   llower> 


their  bri''ht  he. 


peak.      \"i 


11  the  deliijhtful  wind  that   ]ila\s  about  the 
w  we  ,<;o  down  the  monut.nn  side  with  brakes  set,  marvelim. 


tl 


le  wav  at  the  natural  wonders  which    have   been   strewn 


:dl 


,  It. line 


h.md  a 
mijiht  be  c.illc 
to  be  the  ere. It 


the  route. 


There, 


on  the  riijht,  are  the   1' 


Uisades,   w 


hich 


il  sculpture! 
iou  of   the    ! 


yracelnl  and  artistic  th.it  the\- 


reat  I'hidi.is,  or 


(Ml  lies  (.)uart/  \'.dl 


ol   his 


iijipear 
l'"urlher 


liki 


a  ]n 


iie>tlin.i,'  in  depths  f.ir  below  the  anyrv 


wa\es  ot    >,'i.int   inouut.iins 


N'W   we  cross  Otiartz  Ci 


w  lure  nature 


laii,;,'lis  with  blossoms  and   fruit.ij^e,  throiij.;h   rncomp; 


iiree,  wi 


th  the  !•■ 


I'in  C 

and  at  lcnt;th  arrive  .it  < 'runnisou.      We  are  now  in  the  midst  of  the  most 


ran<j;e  to  our  rii,'lit,  by  Juniata   Hot  ,Sp 


row  of 
y  miles 


VAI.l.HY   1)1-    IHK  (iUNNISON,   NH  \l<  S  \I'IM-;i-'0. 


I 


26 


AMHRICA'S  \V()\I)HRI..\\1)S. 


m^ii^iiitk'riu  niiiinitaiii  scciri\  ,  ,uiil  in  llii'  luMit  nl  ,1  ijivat  iiiiiiiniL;  ciniiUn  ,  wIkix-  tlun-  i>  lui>tK-  aliow  tjniiind  and  acti\ily  and  visions  of 
ania/inj;  wialtli  nnilirni-alh.  Thi.'  town  is  at  an  t-lcvation  of  niou-  tlian  7,iMin  Uii,  but  nian\'  peaks  riso  liiv;li  alio\c  it,  from  wliich 
c\t(.nsi\c  \  ii'ws  nia\  be  iiad  of  tlif  ]'.\k  Mountain,  San  Jnan  and  rnconi])ai;luv  ran,L;ts,  wliik-  to  tliu  sontluvi'st  a  l)i'anlifnl  valli-y  stn-tclics 
a\va\-  to  mark  tin.'  <U\ious  [latli  ol  ihv  Cunnison  River. 

llaNini.;  taken  nian\  \  iews  of  tliis  famons  reL;ion,  we  tnvne<l  baek  aj;ain  to  Denver,  and  from  tliat  point  of  radiation  started  ior  Xortli 
Park.  Onr  route  w.is  i)y  wa\  of  lionlder,  at  wliieli  iihiee  we  tonk  tlie  n,irrow-<.;.in^e  ro.id  for  I'ort  Collins.  .\  few  miles  from  Honlder  is 
Honlder  Cafion,  a  sluiiendons  niuuntain  s^or^e  se\enteeii  mile.-:  lunj;,  ,uul  in  pi.iees  tile  walls  rise  lu  almost  the  incredible  lieij^lit  of  .'i,(l()0  feet. 
Tlie  falls  of  Iionlder  Creik  ,ire 
not  without  interest,  but  ike 
mij,'luiness  and  awfnl  j;r.ind<.nr 
of  the  jj;r,inite  cafion  weii^hs  so 
heavily  npon  the  startled  jier- 
ce])tions  of  the  sjieetator,  th.it 
even  the  roar  of  water-fall  is 
scarcely  lie.ird,  all  the  fi\e 
senses  beini;  concentrated  in 
that  of  sij;ht.  The  e\e  is  set  to 
climbini;  these  terrific  preci- 
pices of  stone;  np,  np,  from 
niche  to  niche,  from  « a\e  npon 
wave  of  dizzy  height,  until  it 
rests  n]ion  a  world  on  hi.i;h  that 
seems  "o  lift  its 


b.ithe 


of  tlr 


jiarapets  to  the 

its  brow  ill  the 

:iea\eiis.      Can  it 


be  that   the   little   stre 


nil   that 


mils  coniplainiu)^  aloiij,'  the 
ravine  li.is   eroded  this  iniiihtv 


X( 


not  this  alone,  lor 


■ater  1 


las  been  no  more  than  a 
scrvmt  of  other  i;re.iter  forces 
that   h.ue   torn    the   earth    into 


and  iiiiiicival 


clefts 


volcano,  demiilin' 


Hnrstin^ 


lacier,  devastating-  < 


ielnire 


liny;  fires  of  intern. il  furnaces  that  bidu.!.;ht  a  collapse  of  the  earth  crust,  have  all  beer 


de  into  b;stes  I'.irk,  and  e' 


Peak,  which,  t' 


agencies  in  this  work  of  mit;lit\  distnrbaii 
The  temiitatioii  is  \ery  ^^reat  to  ste 
np  in  the  clear  atiiios])here  like  a  frost\ -crowned   ^i.iut  almost  near  enoiiKli  to  speak  to.      Hnt  the  rest  of  our  party  have  precedei 
are  no  doubt  in  need  of  i)hotoj;raphic  siiliplies,  so  we  liiirrv'  on,  jiaiisino;  only  lonj;  enim.ij;h  to  t.ike  a  snap-shot  at   lionlder   b'.dl 


loii'^h  thirty-six  miles  distant,  Ic 


Fort  Collins,  we  had  the  ^'ood  fortune  to  find  the  others  of  onr  jLirty  awaiti 


Tliev  had   1 


KeachiiiH; 


and  1 


lad  a  snlendK 


1   lot  of  \ie\ 


reward  for  their  laliors.      It  was  fortunate,  tb.crefore,  tliat  we  did  imt  stoji,  for 


iiadc  .111  extensue  trip  thron),di   Ivstes  Park, 


we  could  have  il 


lone 


oils  of 
which 

L'tchl'S 


.rth 


feet. 


IS  and 
cliiiiK 
irk, 


■m 


aS 

more  lluui  dui^lic.itc  llicir  wmk,  ami  ii'|Rati.il 
tlie  exiicriences  which  ihty  iviuiilod  lo  nio 
suhstaiUially  as  foIKiws: 

After  dividiiin  our  party,  as  already  c\- 
plaiiiod,  two  of  our  ])lioioL;raplK-rs  followed  the 
Colorado  Central  Branch  of  the  rniou  I'aeilic 
to  I.ovelaiid,  at  which  place  they  side-tracked 
our  camera  car,  and  lia\  in<j;  made  preparations 
for  the  trip,  started  west  to  make  a  tour  of 
Kstes  Park,  their  principal  ("hjective  jioint 
beinj;  I.onij's  Peak.  The  ])ark  is  conveniently 
reached  li\  a  daily  sta.i;e-line,  which  travels 
over  a  ^"'"1  r^''"'  -i'"''  "■'^1'  ''"^  exception  of  a 
few  miles  of  level  plains,  traverses  a  pictnresruie 
retnon,  with  mountains  sweeping'  every  side, 
the  monotony  of  which  is  relieved  by  many 
lakes,  thirt\  -live  of  which  may  he  seen  from  a 
siiij^le  station,  scattered  o\er  the  ])lain  and 
bathinj;  the  foot-hills.  The  road  leails  up 
Bahl  Mountain  and  Pole  Hill  to  an  elevation 
that  brings  into  view  the  valleys  of  tiiree 
rivers,  and  from  Park  Hill  the  whole  eiitrancinj{ 
scenery  of  Kstes  Park,  probably  the  finest  in 
Colorado,  is  spread  o\it  in  (jne  uidiroken  and 
bewildering  panorama  of  astound'nsj  beauty, 
it  is  not  all  a  vision  of  primeval  nature,  for 
the  vast  table-land  is  abloom  with  fields  of  hus- 
bandry, and  immense  Iierds  of  cattle  <,'ive  ani- 
mation to  the  seeinin).;ly  boundless  pastura)j;e. 

From  Ferguson's  ranch  tiierc  is  a  lovely 
prospect  of  Mummy  ratine,  with  its  conspicu- 
ous peaks,  aglow  with  the  soft  colors  of  sunset 
in  the  evening,  and  mist-cro-.viied  in  the  early 
hours  of  the  day.  On  the  west  arc  the  Front 
and  Raljbit  Far  ranges,  whose  inaccessible 
heights  run  nj)  so  sharply  to  where  storms 
have  their  breeding  jilaces,  that  they  are 
browned  by  exposure  and  look  inexpressibK 
bleak.  Here,  on  these  wild  peaks,  safe  from 
Iniman    foes,   bear  and   nionntain    sheep   have 


AMIvRIC.VS  WOXDKRL.WIXS. 


Hir.i:   LINE  r.ANAI.,    SILVER  FLUME   AND   PLATTE   RIVER. 


.1 


AMERICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


29 


DOME  ROCK,  BOULDER  CAFJON. 


tlii'ir  liabilalions,  and  tlic  caterwaul  of  tlu'  ])iiiiia  iiii<,'s  dul  upon  the 
air  of  lofty  desi^lation  as  a  warniujj  to  tliuse  \vIk>  would  attempt  to  <;aiu 
their  savaj^e  h, units. 

Lout's  Peak  is  hardly  ninre  tliau  a  half-dozeu  miles  from  Table 
Mountain,  measured  by  a  straijjht  line,  but  to  ])ass  from  one  to  the  other 
is  very  difFicult,  except  by  a  lonjr  detour,  .so  that  the  ojjcn  route  is  I)y 
way  of  Loveland  to  I'erjju.son's  ranch,  which  is  near  the  ba.se  of  I.oujj's 
Peak,  aud  from  which  ])oint  the  ascent  is  best  nuule.  The  east  side  of 
the  mountain  is  ])recipitous  aud  lieuce  inaccessible;  viewed  from  this 
side  the  peak  appears  so  lofty  as  to  almost  fade  into  tile  cenilean  of  sky 
depths,  aud  for  this  reason  it  has  been  not  inaptly  called  tlic  American 
Matterhorn.  Its  a])ex,  seen  from  below,  bears  a  sirikinjj  similitude  to 
an  imprei;nable  citadel  surrounded  by  j^'iaut  ramparts. 

The  road  from  I'"erij;usou's  pa.sses  Marv's  Lake,  a  lovely  body  of 
water,  thence  over  a  hill  to  a  forest  that  is  bei,'irted  by  Lily  Mountain 
with  its  monster  cliffs  im]ieudinjj;  from  a  hei<j;ht  of  ll,."i(l(t  feet  above 
sea-level.  The  ascent  may  be  made  by  horses  as  far  as  what  is  known 
as  "  lionlder  I'"ield,"  hut  from  that  point  foot  cliudiini^  is  necessary. 
To  secure  the  finest  view,  a  place  called  the  "Key-hole"  must  be 
•gained,  and  it  is  not  reached  without  {^reat  exertion  of  muscle  and  care- 
fid  eciuilibrium  while  passiujj  alonjj  the  ledj;;es,  since  a  false  stej)  ma\ 
be  attended  bv  .serious  result.  Haviui;  reached  the  Ke\-hole,  the  si,y;hl 
that  rewards  the  climber  is  sublimely  Rrand,  for  he  is  l)rou<;ht  to  face  a 
vertical  wall  of  sheer  2,000  feet,  exteudinjj  up  to  within  what  appears 
to  be  one  or  two  hundred  feet  of  the  apex.  The  altitude  is  so  j^reat 
that  a  finer  prospect,  perhaps,  never  ijreeted  human  vision,  for  the 
W(jrld  seems  to  be  spread  out  for  examination.  .V  little  hi<;her  iip  the 
scene  changes,  but  is  scarcely  so  beautiful,  for  every  additional  foot 
taken  upward  increases  the  indistinctness  of  the  valley  below  aud  the 
mountain  scenery  in  the  distance.  Hut  by  the  aid  of  a  field-};lass  we 
make  out  Hij.j  Thompson  River,  Houlder  Canon,  aud  some  remarkable 
columnar  cliffs  that  exhibit  fantastic  shapes,  sculptured  by  the  erratic 
hand  of  nature.  Mountains  appear  like  legions  to  the  right,  to  the  left, 
upon  all  sides,  but  we  are  now  above  them  all,  and  towards  the  .south- 
cast,  sixty  miles  away,  we  see  a  smoke-cloud  that  has  fonued  from  the 
Denver  Smelters.  Still  further  southward  are  visible  the  hazy  heads  of 
Pike's  Peak  aud  its  twin  brother,  Cheyenne  Mountain,  while  a  hundred 
miles  north  are  dimly  distinguishable  the  range  of  bluffs  east  of  the  city 
of  Cheyenne. 

After  gaining  the  summit  our  party  had  a  still  better  view,  for 


30 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDHRI.AXDS. 


a  biij^hl  siui  liid  iinw  cdnic  (mt  fmm  lu-liiinl  i-lniids  tli.il  had  hcfuio  ohsouu'il  his  r,i\s,  ami  ^.>  omiipKu-ls  ilissipati'il  tin-  misty 
Mial  tlu'  |ianoi-.ima  was  j,'riall\-  imriasid.  Tlu'V  witv  lifud  sd  far  aliovf  iIk'  ImoiU  rnuy^c  lliat  Irxomi!  tin.'  (liviilo  tlu'ri^  lnokc  i 
the  far  smuhwisl,  tiu'  Mnunt  of  the  Holy  Cross,  wliili-  bisiili-  it  were  the 
vciy  j..;!^   imtlini-s  of  JackMm  I'lak,  the  two  ahnost  hleiuliiij;  into  one. 

As  they  ileseeU(le<l  on  the  northea.slern  siile,  suddenly  their  si>;hl  was 
arresttd  1>\  a  lake  shnnheriiij;;  in  a  little  basin  that  liad  been  seooped  ont  of 
tile  ^r-mili'  sides  of  the  monntain.  It  is  almost  innnediately  under  tin 
vertieal  eliffs,  and  so  elear  that  the  observer  seems  to  look  thron.y;li  it,  as  he 
would  thnmtih  a  lookiiv^-i^las-,  upon  i;reat  walls  wllieli  appear  below,  but 
are  in  reality  relleetions  of  the  preeipiee  examined  when  makini;;  the  aseent. 
Lily  >b)\intain  was  in  bold  ontline  on  the  rij^'ht,  where  re]>osed  another  lake 
of  si>mewliat  greater  si/e,  whose  water  a]>iieared  to  feed  a  stream  that  ran 
^ambolin.L;  down  a  dee|)  .yori^e  iiUo  the  ])lain  which  it  nonrished. 

On  everv  side  tin  re  were  e\  iik  iiees  of  i^laeial  erosion,  not  oidv  in  the 
form  of  bowlders  and  debris,  hut  •.■  Literal  moraines,  w  lii'ie  the  .ylaeier  h,id 
left  (K'lHisits,  and  in  .yorijes  wh.e;;:'  },'re.it  j;r,iiiite  blocks  h,id  been  tumbled, 
over  which  in  pLuxs  the  water  cantered  and  fell  in  beautiful  sheets.  In 
one  place,  towards  the  b,i>e,  were  found  m:iny  small  aspen  trees  cut  down, 
and  most  frei|ncnlly  the  trunks  wire  divested  of  their  bark,  and  the  tender 
limbs  were  iiii>sin.L;.  liuestiiiatinn  the  cause,  it  w.is  directly  discovered 
to  be  the  work  of  beavers,  several  of  whose  dailis  were  ])ereeived  in  a  creek 
that  ran  thnun^h  a  beautiful  meadow  Liud,  but  no  one  of  the  p.irty  w.is 
able  to  iMteli  si.i;lil  of  the  w.irv  auiin.ils. 

(  )ur  pavl\  beiiij,' satisfied  with  their  tiip  in  the  park,  and  especially 
with  the  ascent  of  I.on.t;"s  Peak,  where  they  ha<l  securi-d  more  than  a  score 
of  m,iL;nirueut  i)hoto,L,'raphic  views,  returned  to  I.ovel.md  to  be  rejoined  by 
lis  ,it  l'"ort  Collins,  as  vvlll  be  presently  described. 

We  tarried  a  short  while  at  l-"ort  Collins,  then  set  off  for  Mason  City, 
eii^htv-  niilesdistant,  the  road  to  which  leads  throu,i;li  the  world-famous  Cache 
I,a  I'ondre  (  I'owder  River)  ret^ion.  .After  leavinj;  the  south  fork  of  this 
stream  we  jiasst-d  Monitor  Peak,  crossed  the  I'.ij,'  I.aramie,  and  bronj;lit  nj)  at 
Medicine  I  Sow  r.in;^e.  North  Park  jnopcr  lies  west  of  the  raii.nc,  but  the  ])hys- 
ical  features  of  tli.-  immetli.itelv  eastern  district  are  almost  identical,  and  to 
traverse  the  whole  wiuild  have  rei|uired  more  tl'.an  a  month.  The  p.iik  is 
an  elevateil  pl.iin  '.',i»»)  feet  above  .sea  level,  and  embraces  an  area  of  abor.t 
•J.:>im  sijiiarc  miles.  Properly  siH-akiii.t;,  H  is  a  fertile  v.dlev  enclosed  bv 
simrs  and  branclus  of  the  Rockv  .Mouiit.iiiis,  ,uid  is  so  sei.Ioin  visited  that 
there  are  as  yet  no  resorts  for  travelers,  and  the  sla.^e  is  a  poor  reli.mce  for 
rcachiui,rthe  mo't  interesliii,i,'<lislriet  .  WealsoeNperienced  insurinonutable 
obstacles,  which  cumpelled  us  to  .i!,.r.ido;i  (.ur  ]>nrpose  of  makii.j;  a  tour  of  f,o(j|  [j[:|,   [- \|  ,  >^_ 


atmosphere 
nil)  view,  in 


i' 


I 


iiospliere 
view,  ill 


MOUNTAIN  OF  THE  HOLY  CROSS,  COLORADO. 


i 


33 


AMERICA'S  WONUKRLANUS, 


1 


tlie  lurk.  Thi'  only  possihli-  way  if  K"'^"ii  throiii,'!!  llie  distrii-t  and  to 
cliii'f  i>c)iiits  of  iili()loKiai)liic  iiitcnst  (]iaiili)ii  tlit-  i'\|iri's>ii)ii )  would  liavc 
bccti  In-  horses,  and  tliisc  wiiv  iini  ii..nMiial)lc  bci-aiiM-  tlic  country  is  di- 
void  of  scttkniiMils;  bisidi-^,  wc  wire  nuprovidcd  witli  camp  c<iuipnicnt. 
\Vc  saw  tlie  mountains  rising  on  every  side  into  jaj^fjcd  spires,  and  occa- 
siii'.ial  lakes  nestling'  on  tlieir  liosonis,  liul  tliey  were  inaccessible  to  us, 
and  after  niakiuj;  so  loui;  a  jo\irney  we  were  compelled  to  return  without 
accomplishini;  anythini;  wniiliv  to  be  narrated.  l'hotojL;raphs  of  some 
mineral  spriuj^'s  bubblin<,'  up  ie\-cold  in  stony  basins,  wi<le  stretches  of 
landscape,  hemmed  in  bv  a  wall  of  mountains,  and  some  fine  views  of 
scenery  alou)^  the  Cache  I,a  roudrc,  was  all  the  reward  we  had  for  ilays  of 
uncomfortable  traveliuj;,  nnich  of  which  was  done  on  foot,  and  on  horses 
borrowed  for  short  tcnirs.  We  traversed  enough  of  the  district,  however, 
to  satisf\-  us  of  its  beauty  and  fertility,  and  that  the  region  was  a  va.".t 
jjame  park,  in  which  mountain  sheep,  bear,  deer,  pumas  were  numerous, 
and  ])tanni>,'an  abundant.  We  c.uij^ht  sij,'ht  of  .several  wild  sheep  and  had 
a  far-away  (not  too  far)  look  at  a  cinnamon,  or  >;ri//ly  bear,  we  were 
not  able  to  positively  decide  which,  and  not  beiu).;  e(|uipl)ed  for  enter- 
tainins,'  i;,une  of  that  ch.iracter  were  indisposed  to  permit  curiositv  to 
supersede  juilymenl. 

Returning  to  I'ort  Collins,  we  r  ■tracc<l  our  route  to  LouKmount, 
from  which  point  we  determined  to  visit  Table  Mountain,  near  b\  , 
and  Mount  llallett,  a  little  further  towards  the  west.  To  carry  this 
decision  into  effect  it  was  necessary  to  make  some  jirovision  for  con- 
veyance and  c.impiuK,  as  the  monnlain  cannot  be  explored  in  a  day, 
and  a  few  evenin;;s  must  be  spent  in  camp  in  order  to  <lo  the  W(Mk 
satisfactorilv.  l'"ortunately,  supplies  are  e.isy  to  ])rocure,  and  beiuji; 
fullv  ])rovide(l,  we  set  out  .1  merry  party  on  a  pleasant  errand.  We 
reached  the  font  of  Table  .Mount, lin  towards  the  close  of  the  dav,  and 
went  into  camp  beside  a  beautifid  little  stream  that  had  its  source  some- 
where up  the  ),'or^'e  that  cleft  one  side  of  tlie  mountain.  .\t  this  ])oiut 
we  were  also  able  to  take  some  pretty  views  of  the  iniposinj^  scenery  by 
which  we  were  surrounded. 

Near  noon  of  the  foUowiu);  day  we  accomplished  the  ascent,  and 
from  that  vanta<;e  point  surveyed  a  scene  of  bewildcrinj;  ^jrandenr.  The 
witid,  however,  blew  a  ^ale  that  m.ide  our  position  extremely  uncom- 
fortable, and  one  of  our  party  lost  his  hat,  that  was  borne  away  and 
dropped  into  an  abyss  of  almost  measureless  depth.  There  were  mount- 
ains to  the  west  that  seemed  to  han<j  on  the  edjjje  of  the  horizon, 
and  down,   far  down,  below    us    was    an    immen.se    expanse    of   bowlders 


nRAY.MONT  MOUNTAIN,  MlDDl.H  PARK. 


1 


1^ 


'1 


'  I 


..,  AMI'RICA'S  \\undi;ri,.\xi)S. 

tll.ll   ll.ul  l-\i(Kllll\    OlU-l-   IlllM   llu'  spnll  I.I   :l   yllK'icV.        Illdll'.l,   tlu'  ul-H'ilT  \^,.^   .lill  lluu-,   M   J4''Ml   -"'lid    U'-M  "I    Oinip.uU.l    MIOW    lll.ll   .11   niiil- 

il.iy  lni^;;;i-.l  llii'  sIkkIow  -itUi.t  tlu'  iiK.um.nii,  Inil  w.is  .■M.IiiitK  iiio\iii.i;  ynidiMlK,  iiiii>iuipiil.U  ,  l.iu.iids  ilii'  ^oy^i'.  WatiT  was  ])i.uniiK 
inm  thf  t).i>i-  and  U.niiiiiK'  w.iU  ilall>,  ia>(.a.ks  and  swilt  stuain-^.  slio\viii«  tlial  I'lat  radiation  Iroiil  tlii'  >ailli  was  Mulling  till-  Khxc'wr  llloU' 
rapidly  than  llii'  snn"-;  ia\v  The  lUirt  was  cxtnnuly  luanlilul,  for  llii-  aIUtn.M>n  smi  was  iliaiiKin«  tin-  I'dKt-s  '<(  tlii'  sn<iw|iai-k  into 
Ik antitnl  nlli'i'lions  of  aiina-niarilii',  and  w.iws  of  iiylit  sliinnnind  aUow  tlic  Klaiiir  that  niadi'  tho  iri'  I'oviik't  soiiiliilant  with  odor. 

T.ddf  Monnl.iiii  is  a  InnuaKil  roiu',  from  whiih  f.ict  it  t.ikis  its  n.inic;  hnt  it  is  diiply  lissuriil  on  f\tr\  sidf,  and  on  thi'  wist  sidi- 
ihcM-  is  .m  api'.dlinj,' Hor^r,  our  thi'  tdi^cs  of  uhii-Ii,  in  plui -,  od<iss.d  sluils  of  \cv  impind,  \.ist  li'd^cs  thiv  appiMi,  thrcitcninn  the 
\  I  i^it.ition  f.ir  down  IkIow,  and  n  ndiiin-  ir.i\iliiiK'  aloUK  the  .slopes  very  dangerous.  Having  pliolo);rapluil  Tabli-  .Mountain  and  llic  line 
sciiarv  tint  is  tril.nt.irv .  wi- 
disiviidid  .ind  p.isstd  omt  lo 
Monnt  ll.illitt,  wluri.'  \\i-  u\n- 
dili.i,'llli.-d  to  ThkI  \iiw>  of  yit 
v^riattT  )4;randt-ur.  'I'lu-  \\.i\  to 
this  mount  is  niicss.nily  o\ir 
'I'.dik'  Mount. lin  .nid  into  l-'.--tis 
I'.irk,  tlif  sidid  ramparts  of 
roi-ks  whii'h  snrroiin<l  tin-  p.irk, 
as  far  .is  Wilkiw  CafRin,  ]ui- 
Nfutinij;  tl;c  access  of  p.uk 
aniin.ds. 

<  'la  i  It  in  j;  t  hi-   h.isi-  of 

'I'.ihk-    .Mount. lin,    wc    followed 

up  Titnlicr  Crcfk  ovi-r  a  naliir.d 

ri'.idway  until  the  lo<it  of  JLd- 

klt  w.is  rc.ichcd.     'i'lu-  w.iy  w.is 

easy  and   i.kMs.mt,   hciui;   k\il 

.md   almost    lloorcd   witli   ino^s 

and  flowers,  while  many  species 

of  birds  flitted  across  our  path, 

and  in  and  out  t'.iroU},'h  the  trees 

,ind  hushes,  with  voices  of  tune- 

Ijj]  ,,|^^,  iORPllY'S   IT.AK,   Mil;       1;    PARK,   COLORADO. 

.\s  wc  ascended  the  mountain  ou  the  northeastern  side,  a  m.i;.;niricent  view  w.is  ])reseiited  down  a  deep  K"''K'^-  A  little  bifjlier  up, 
and  as  we  veered  towards  tlie  west,  we  saw,  a  thousand  feel  below  us,  a  dee|),  dark  lake  whose  sides  were  walled,  K'vinj;  to  it  the  ai)pearaiice 
of  a  crater  that  had  now  become  a  lake  b.isin.  Still  further  up  the  sleep,  in  a  ravine,  was  another  lake,  the  edj^es  of  which  served  to  mark 
both  the  timber  ;iud  snow  line.  .\wa>  cjff  in  the  southeast  w.is  I,on;;'s  I'e.ik,  frowning  in  bleak  desolation  above  a  lake  that  llll^;JJed  its 
feet.  On  every  side  the  scenery  was  ruH;j;edly  sublime,  while  ininiediately  at  onr  rijjht  was  a  >;reat  chasm  with  a  vertical  wall  of  stone  fully 
cue  thousand  feet  hinh. 

The  timber  was  now  below  us,  and  onr  hor.ses  picked  their  way  over  an  iudi.^tinct  trail  tlirou(j;li  patches  of  snow.  Occasionally,  there 
were  suspicious  places,  where  the  snow  ^vas  deeply  impacted,  which  mi>;lit  conceal  a  treacherous  way,  a  chasm  bridged  with  nothing;  more 


1 

t 

1 

sMr..iMi^'  ^ 

T! 

-^, 

■'  ilMiiiyillli 

'^5 

't-     »'■    ,  .;'Sy;-i..«t  ,.-'?-■         ,       »  -    ■<• 

^ ._.  .'w     .    — 4BlB^^^^^^^^^^^^^I&':^B^^A^    ^E]Ba.$^> '        ,»» . 

THE  GREAT  WESTWARD  FLOOD  OF  BMK^iRATION-CROSSINcJ  THE  PLATTE  PIVER  LN   ISiis  (Vmm  a  painting). 


./' 


I? 


35  AMI-RICA'S  WUXDl'RLAXDS. 

-iib-t,inli,il  llian  r.iki-  of  i.'i'.  W-.,  "U  tins  l.nRMniK'  monniain,  chWUA  l.v  |K-nH'tu,illv  airtii-  wiii.ls,  sw.Ulu'd  l.v  oUtikiI  snows,  andcovcred 
!,v  oianl  1m.«  KUrs  thai  ui.aaLxd  iscvvtliiiij;  l.v  Uii'lr  appaii  Ml  iiislahilit  v,  tlu'iv  was  no  si-aivilv  ol  animal  lik'.  Tlu'  nionnt..in  ral,  cliiimmnk, 
wondc-lmck,  Rod.v  Moi-aiain  sIri].  and  a  ftw  li.nis  niaki-  this  nninvitin-  iv-i.-n  their  bannl,  whiU'  ptarnii-an,  or  tnonnlam  r"iisc,  ari' 
lii-lv  pi.  ;  -iiul.  OnL-  cnthuMa-iic  phoicoraplR-r  who  c-liniho!  Ilalh'tt  sonic  vcais  W-Un,-,  claiini-d  to  haw  ionnd  a  lurd  of  mount  lin  slu'op 
so  taim-  ,;.at  he  was  alilc  to  take  their  inetnre>,  but  none  of  ns  had  sneh  };ood  forlniR'. 

At  one  point  of  the  elevation  we  lia.i  an  enraptuvin-  view  of  Middle  I'ark  an<l  C.rand  Lake,  wliosi-  water-  looked  like  a  vast  sea  of 
,|uiekMlvei,  .>n  whieh  the  -unlii^ht  daiiee,!  in  a  uN'rions  lelleetion.  N.nlli  I'ark  iniKlil  have  been  also  visible  from  this  same  lofts  point  of 
■'isersali.'n  but  .••r  the  iir.-.r- 
\^-ntion  n:  Muiniiu  Monnlai'i. 
the  nioiiiinienlal  mark  of  Medi- 
cine I'lOW  ran'^e,  lar  to  tlfe 
northwe-t,  loo  di-tant  for  oni 
cameras  to  leprodnee  the  \  R  \v 
with  sati-faetion. 

(  )n  r  visits  to  Ta  'il  i 
Moniitain  and  Mount  lla'iRtt 
had  pvo\en  so  dt  lii^litfnl  that 
c.nr  pie\ioiisly  eonteinpla'.ed 
trip  to  Middle  I'ark  was  now 
nndeilakeii    w  i  t  b    the    nio-t 


pRasant    anticipation- 


k 


linniii!^  to  l.oin^nioiit,  we  jiro- 
cee.lcd  o\er  tile  rniuii  I'acitic 
to  Sunset,  an  arm  of  the  road 
that  -tretches  out  into  the 
I'ront  lan^e  until  it  fa  i !  !  \- 
v;iasps  ilie  beantifiil  scenerv  of 
that  marviloiisly  >;rand  region. 
<  ieori^etowii  would  !ia\e  been 
a  more  eomenicnt  point  o; 
departure  for  Midland  I'ark, 
lull    we    chi 


~e    to    a\cpii 


st,l- 


,;in.^,  and  by   means  oi    pack 


1  k:-:\\()N1  >  i'.\>s.  NoiMH  pm'K. 

e  (luicke-t,  i\eii  JioiiLili  it  was  a  more  troublesome,  route.  Miildle  I'.iik  is  sep.irated  from  N'orth  I'ark  liy 
an  e,i>t  and  we-l  sweep  of  the  i;ieit  Contiiiciit.il  I  »i\  ide,  .Hid  like  its  northern  sister  is  coinpletely  encircled  liv  loft\  inoiiiit.iins,  wliose 
sentinels  ate  l..pn.;.;'s  I'e.ik,  ("ir,i\'s  I'e.ik  and  Moliiil  Lincoln,  with  ele\ations  al)o\e  sea  level  of  respectivelv  Ll,.")(H»,  1  L-""  and    1  l,;itH>  feet. 


animals  to  icuii   the  11. i 


rk  b-.  til 


The 


elevatiiMi  of  tile  p.irk  its 


-  about  7,.'ii"i  felt,  and  its  area  some  ;!,<H1(I  .square  miles,  or  about  one-third  less  than  the  State  oi  Coiiiiccti- 
ciit.  It  is  drained  prineipall  ■  by  the  liliie  and  tiraiid  Rivers,  whose  waters  flow  ^a-ncrally  throtij;h  smiling  meadows  until  they  escape  from 
the  p.irk.  We  traveled  by  hor-e  throip^li  Iterthond  I'.iss  to  Hot  Siil])hiir  Spriiij;s,  which  is  on  a  small  tributary  of  Cirand  River,  and  only 
.ibonl  twelve  miles  from  the  suiuli  boundary  of  the  park.     I'rom  tilis  iHiiiit  we  went  to  Oraiid   L.ike,  the  be.intifnl  body  of  water  that  \vc 


1(1  covired 
•liipiiiunk, 


Mil  slu-ei) 


list  sea  I) 


1)01 


lit  of 


I 


irtli  I'aik  !)>• 
,iiiis.   wliosf 

1  l,;t(l()  feet. 

>l  Couiieeti- 


l^llllC 


from 
i<l  only 


.Iter  that  we 


xM' 


DODCKS   lil.UPH,  CANUN  Ol'   (iRANU  UIVER. 


.v*^ 


AMHRICA'S  WUXUHRLAXDS. 


f 


liad  seen  from  the  iKii^lils  of  Mount  ILillitt.  If  tlic  scone  was  .strand  when  viewed  from  tlial  distant  elevation,  it  was  snldiniely  picturesque 
when  we  reached  its  sliores.  Tlie  western  shore  line  of  the  lake  waslies  the  vertical  base  iif  towerin.ij  uionntains,  which  enclose  it  on  three 
sides,  and  throw  their  ijianl  shadows  into  its  pellucid  depths,  where  rellections  of  l)rown  peaks  mingle  with  the  beaulifnl  Rrccn  of  tall 
tufted  pines.  Its  bed  appears  to  be  a  ,i;l.icier  basin,  for  all  about  an.  clifts  thai  bear  distinct  marks  of  an  ice  deln),'e  that  thousand.s  of  years 
a;,'o,  perhaps,  inv.uled  this  retreat  of  nature  and  tore  asunder  the  e.irili,  j^round  its  way  lhiouj.;h  stone,  scoured  the  face  of  the  mountains, 
and  scoojied  .i  depression  in  the  plain. 

.Stran.i;e  it  is  tluit  near  the  shores  of  this  hike  the  water  is  sin.i;ularly  cr\  st.illine,  while  towards  the  center  it  is  dark  as  uiiduiRht. 
The  lake  is  also  a  tre.ichero\is  body,  sul)jecl  to  appalliu,;;  dislnrbments  from  inrushinij  storms  that  first  gather  on  the  surroundiu^j  peaks  and 
then  swoo]i  down  to  break  with  sudilen 
and  appallinij  force  upon  its  e\l)ausi\e 
bosom.  No  wonder  th.it  from  time 
immemorial,  the  I'te  Indians  have 
rej;arded  the  Like  with  stiiierstilions 
fears,  and  till  ghosth'  stories  of  its 
tre.ielKr\  .  I'pon  one  occasion,  as  an 
old  hulian  related,  a  baud  of  l"tes  were 
encamped  tii>on  its  shores,  pleasantly 
and  protitably  er.j,'ai;ed  in  trout  fishiny. 
Thev  had  their  wouien  and  children 
with  them,  and  h.niu!.;  prepared  for  a 
stay  of  some  weeks,  they  had  rafts 
made  of  ]Mne  loi;s,  and  it  was  from 
these  ihev  did  their  tisliint;.  While 
thus  enj.;a;4ed  thev  were  alt.u'ked  bv  a 
war  parly  of  Arr.qiahoo,  tlu  ir  impla- 
cable enemies.  The  I'tes  commiued 
their  \vi\es  and  children  to  the  rafts, 
which  thcN-  ptished  f.ir  out  into  the 
lake,  anil  then  en,L;aHed  with  their  feru- 
cious  adversaries,  whom,  after  .i  des- 
perate batlle,  they  repulsed.  Diirini:; 
the  flight,  however,  a  storm  ainse  on  the 

lake,' which   quickie    l,,she,l    the    w.Uer  '■'^'^^"   '  ^^^'^    ^^"""^-^    '■^"^- 

into  such  fury  that  the  ])ieiein.!.;  iries  of  the  heljiless  women  and  children   weie  scarcelv  audible  above  the  breakinjj  waves  and  screech  of 
.sa\aj;e  wind.     Wjien  the   I'tes  turned  from  pursuing  their  enemies,  the\  .saw  that  a  more  daugeroirs  foe   h.id  atl.icked  thiir  helpless  ones. 


The  rafts  were  (piickh  broken  uj)  by  wild  surges  of  the   infuriated  lake,  and  every 


lan   and  child   was  swallowed   up.     The   Inilians, 


ihose  mind-'  aie  jiecidiarly  susceptible    to  imjires 


if  a  supernaliir.d   character,   were  promi)t  to  attribute  the  calamity  to  ,i  manifes- 


tation of  the  (\ 


n  Sinnt's  ai 


id  since  that  fatal  event  they  have  regarded  the   lake  as  being  the  haunt  of  water  demons,  and  no 


Indian  lias  since  that  eal.imitous  incident  dared  to  venture  upon  its  bosom. 

I'rom  Grand  Lake  we  followed  its  outlet  some  twent\  miles  south,  and  euleied  a  be.iutiful  valley  of  (Iranil  River,  where  the  gra.ss 


AMHRICA'S  WOXUHRLAXDS. 


39 


WMS  Idiij;  ami  j^n'uii,  {hv  skv  a  1)<.-antiliil  iiiili,i;i>-lihR\  and  tlio  iiKnuitain  sceiu-rv  ardi'.ncl  ns  was  iiiai;iiirii.'fiil.  A  inarvi'lDiisly  cli-ar  atilios- 
jiIrtc  liuuk'  tliL'  (lislaiK'c  (kciptivc,  so  llial  pt'aks  wliii-ll  wrii-  fifty  luik'S  away  a|i]i(.' uvd  to  l)i.'  sratvidy  fixe.  Imohi  oho  ixiiiit  of  obsiTvatioii 
wo  swept  llie  laj^.m'd  liori/oii  with  our  I'liraptuivd  c\us,  and  plainly  poux-ivi'd  a  battalion  of  wull-known  ntonntains  lliat  lockid  tluir  inassi\e 
arms  around  Middle  Park  like  lovinj^  jjiiardsiiuMi.  Roiindtop  lifted  its  head  to  ,i;.i/e  into  the  niysleriotis  depths  of  (Irand  Lake;  and  far 
beyond,  i,i)n,L;'s  IVak,  the  j,'reat  ,u;ray  sentinel  of  Ivstes  Park, "loomed  up  ''ke  a  elmid  ijathevint;  inspiration  from  the  heavens.  A  little  to  the 
ri^ht,  Ivlk  Monnlain  ])rojeets  its  snowv  ea])  far  into  the  skv  and  looks  ii]>  into  the  faee  of  its  taller  kinsmen.  P'ollowinij  the  wavinij  lines 
of  peak  upon  peak,  our  eyes  cantjht  :  i,j;ht  of  a  ])ass  tluonj^h  which  a  river  had  found  its  way,  and  behind  the  interval  were  tile  faded  fronts 
of  Medicine  Pow  range.     A  little  further  to  the  left  there  is  another  rent  in  the  continuity  of  monntains,  which  closer  insjiectiou  discovers 

to  ns  IS  (lore's  C.ifion  of  (Irand  River, 
where  it  leaves  the  park  throuj^h  ;i  fis- 
sure made  in  the  erupti\e  rocks  cptite 
three  miles  lou.ij,  and  in  places  nearl\- 
2,iiiM»  feet  (leej).  So  perpen<licnlar  are 
these  cliffs  that  a  ])erson  standin.L'-  ui)on 
the  diz/v  brink  may  drop  a  stone  into 
the  rushint;  river  below. 

If  we  look  towards  the  southeast, 
across  a  stretch  of  saj^e-brush,  we  see 
the  peak  of  heroic  Powell,  the  nio^'t 
m.ijestic  elevation  in  the  Park  ran.y:e, 
.sinj;ular  not  only  by  reason  of  itsclond- 
piereinj;  ileiyht,  but  also  because  it 
looks  lhron>;h  the  hazy  distance  lik  a 
Mionntaiu  of  sapjdiire,  while  behind  it 
are  lolly  stretches  of  ]ieaks  with  straj,'- 
;»Iiny;  locks  of  white,  where  snow  has 
^nilhered  in  the  wrinkles  of  their  cheeks. 
Our  rambles  ihrouj^h  Middle  Park 
had  been  so  pleasant  that  it  was  with 
.some  reluctance  we  turned  our  steps 
eastward  a,i;aiu,  to  pursue  the  work  of 

plK)toirr.;;'hintr  scenerv  in  more  .south- 

(.ORRS  CASON,   Minni.E   PARK.  i      c   i  i         iv  '      i    c         ,      i. 

erly  field-;.     We   readied  vSniiset   after 

I  absence  of  twelve  days,  and  were  soon  after  switched  on  to  the  Xorth  liraiich  of  the  Union   Pacific  for  Denver.     Thence,  our  route 

w.is  south  to  Coliuado  Sprini^s  and  Manitoii,  where,  as  the  followiu);  chapter  will  show,  we  repeated  our  delij,'hMiil  experiences  in  Middle 

Park,  and  saw  even  j^rcater  wonders. 


the  grass 


^Sm^ 


IN  WW.  .;AN0N  OI-  (iKAMJ  WIVtK,  COl.OI^MKX 


CHAPTER  II. 

MANITOU,  THE  MIGHTY! 

Fill'"  ),'l(>iy  <)»  Colorado,  in  the  splendor  of  its  waterfalls,  the  awesonieiiess  of  its  mountains,  the  wealth  of  its  mines,  and  the 
|)ietiiresi|\U'ness  of  its  natural  l)arks,  is  hy  no  means  eonfmed  to  those  Koeky  Monntaiii  dislriets  wliieli  we  have  jnst  pielured  and 
deseril)e<l,  for  <;reater  marvels  remain  to  he  sjioken  of,  and  pietorially  re])resented.  Ketnrnin<^  to  Denver,  our  tour  took  ns  southward, 
aeross  a  plain  that  hu^s  the  jjnarled  bosom  of  the  Continental  Divide,  hy  the  jiearl  of  I'alnier  Lake,  .and  on  to  Colorado  Sprinj^s 
and  Maniton,  the  twin  cities  that  sit  at  the  feel  of  I'ike's  Peak.  Here  we  are  compelled  to  pause  in  a  spell  of  miijhty  wonderment 
before  the  am.i/injj;  prodij^ies  of  a  riotously  eccentric  nature,  that  bursts  into  an  exid)erance  of  dashinir  cascades,  top-lofty 
niountaius,  darkliujj  canons,  j^ruesomc  formations,  monolithic  spires,  babhlinjj  brooks  and  ma.!4;netic  sprini^s.  Here  are  dod's  acres  of 
tuninltnous  stone,  j^rand,  am.i/inj,',  chaotic,  aberrant;  a  ])antheiin  of  r  res,  a  Joxian  council,  a  niytholoi^ic  assend)la;^e  that  sits  like  a 
.Smhedrini  on  the  i>sues  of  Titanic  uphe.i\al,  erosion,  conglomeration  and  elemental  disturbance.      There,  risinjj  like  a  <;iant  specter  above 

its  lesser  brothers,  and  dipj)in>r 
its  hoary  head  into  the  milk\- 
baldric  of  the  heavens,  stands 
I'ike's  Peak,  the  j^rand  old  sen- 
tin<d  of  millenniums,  with  sides 
jjaslied  bv  tuniblin<^  cataracts 
and  yellow  with  t|uiverinj{ 
leaves  of  the  frosted  aspen.  So 
lofty  that  the  stars  can  almost 
whis])er  to  it,  and  tiie  clouds, 
when  tired  of  sailin.y;  tlironsh 
the  sky,  circle  and  settle  npcMi 
its  |)eak,  while  eternal  niijht 
slcejis  undisturbed,  save  by  the 
lion's  call,  in  the  deep  jjorges 
that  split  its  l)ase. 

The  first  white  man  who 
cauijht  sijjlit  of  this  towerini; 
mountain  was  I<ientcnant  Zeb- 
uloii  Pike,  who  was  sent  out 
by  the  (iovernment  in  the  year 
1^(1(1  to  make  an  exploration  of 
the  Territory  of  Louisiana  ai;d 
the  Provinces  of  New  Spain, 
a  district  now  characterized  as 
the  >rrcat  Southwest.     I'rom  his 


▼ 

n 

^-. 

^^^^^H^^ 

'  ■ 

^.f<*^  ^ 

T^  ^  '^.-^^^■^-.s*. 

\^ 

l^' 

r-    -  -^   . , 

..  ^*~:^ 

.V 

■    X        ^      -    -Vi-,^, 

H^"' 

W 

*"■ 

*-  '^■- 

^^N-  ;|# 

f- 

'■     "' "/?.  '^ 

'    >r. 

--,     - 

v-v-i^-^^- 

\  :, 

■•"■■-    ^»^x:; 

"^ 

•    "           -^    ?-■ 

,V^ 

5^^ 

:■  V- 

- 

.'■■  %- 

V' 

f. 

■"" ' ' 

-> 

> 

'■■> 

.    ^,  -.."'     5Jic  ,  - 

i 

"■ 

'1  ■     ■■  •  V  ^ 

j 
1 

> 

"v  " 

THE  SEAL   AND  BEAR,  GARDEN  OF  THE  GODS. 


41 


t 


42 


AMHRICA'S  WUXDl-KI.AXDS. 


di;n\  nf  S,itiirila\  .  NciMiiiln  r  l''lli,  \X''i'.  wt-  i\\u<li.-  llii'  ilt  si-riiniiMi  nf 
liis  (Iisi.'n\ i".\  : 

'•  r.is^til  tun  ikvy  m-tUs,  ,111(1  iii.nn  lii;,;li  |M.iiils  nf  rni-ks  ;  alsn 
laryi' IkvcIs  (il'InillaKn.-.  At  tun  (  flnoU  in  tin.' aili'iiinnu  I  lliniiL;lu  I 
omld  <Ii>liiii^uisli  a  iiininuaiii  In  niiv  iii;lil,  « liii'li  aii]n.ari(l  like  a  -niali 
liliK-  (.'Iniiil;  \ii.\vi.'il  it  witli  till'  -in -i^la-.--  ami  wa-;  still  iiiniL-  cniiliniuil 
ill  in\  cniiicotiiiv,  and  in  half  an  Imiir  it  aiiiKaivil  in  (nil  \it.'w  iiilniv 
us.  Wlan  niir  small  pan\  arrivtd  nn  the  liill,  tlK'\-  with  uno  accord 
;.;avi-  thnc  clucis  tn  tlic  Mtxicaii  Mnniitains, " 

On  tiic  I'lUli,  inllnwiii;;.  this  iutvipid  cxplnivr  attcini>ti'd  an 
ascent  nl  ChcMiinc  MniiiUain,  tni  miles  tn  the  ea'-t  nf  I'iki's  I'cai^, 
Irnm  which  tn  m  ike  an  iihseixatinn  nf  ilif  nmie  ln|;\  emiiuiue,  which 
he  thus  descrihes: 

"  l''.\l)ectiii.u  tn  letuin  tn  niir  camp  that  e\enin;_,',  we  left  all  niiv 
blankets  and  pvn\isiniis  at  the  fnnt  nf  the  inninitaiii,  killed  .1  deei  nf 
a  new  species,  and  hiiiii;  it-  skin  nil  a  tree  with  sniiie  meat.  We 
cnmmuiced  asceiidiin.;  ;  Inniid  the  wa\  \er\-  diiriciilt,  IkIiil;  nMii;ed  tn 
ciiinh  up  rocks  sniiutimes  ,ilmnst  pirpeiidicukir  ;  and  after  marchini:  all 
d.iy  we  enc,iui]ied  in  ,1  c.i\e  wilhniit  M.iukets.  \  ietiials  nr  water.  \\\-  li.id 
a  tine  cle,ir  ske  while  it  w,is  snowiuj,'  at  the  linttnm.  <  Ml  the  sidi'  nf  the 
lliniiilt.iiii  we  I'nlind  only  \ellnw  am!  ]iitch  ])iiie:  .••■nille  distance  up  we 
saw  nuff.dn,  ,ind  hi'^her  still,  the  new  species  nf  (Kc-r  .ind  phe.is.mts, 

"  Thursiliv ,  JTtli  Xn\einlier. — .\rnse  liuiii;r\ ,  tliiist\ ,  and  e\- 
tre'iiely  snre,  finin  the  nneMiies-  nf  the  rneks  nn  whicli  we  had  l.iiu 
all  uiL;ht;  but  we  were  aiiipU  cnmpen-..iled  tnr  niir  toil  b\- the  snblimitv 
of  the  prnsjiect  belnw.  The  uiibniiiuled  ]irairie  was  overhuiiLj  with 
clniids,  which  appiMied  like  the  nee.in  in  a  stnrin,  wa\e  ]iilicl  nn  w,i\e, 
anil  fnamiii'.;,  whilst  tlu  -k\  n\er  mir  he. ids  w.is  perfectly  cK.ir.  Cniii- 
meiiced  our  m.ncli  up  the  niniiiu.iin  and  in  aliniit  an  hniir  an  i\  ed  at 
the  snininit  nf  this  chain;  here  we  fniiud  the  simw  middle-deep,  and 
discnvered  nn  -iL;n  nf  bird  nr  beast  inhabiting;  this  re!.;inn.  The  ther- 
mnmeter.  which  stn(.il  at  nine  dci^nes  abn\e  /em  at  the  fnnt  of  the 
monnlain,  here  fell  to  fmir  decrees  belnw.  The  summit  of  the  Ciraiid 
Peak,  which  was  eiitircK-  I).ire  of  vei;et.itioii,  and  covered  with  snow, 
nnw  appeared  at  the  distance  of  t'lfteeu  or  sixteen  miles  fmm  lis,  and 
as  llitrh  a;4ain  as  we  h.id  ascended.  It  would  h.ue  t.ikeii  a  w  linle  (l.i\  's 
marr'  to  have  arrivcil  at  its  base,  whence  I  believe  no  liiunan  beiin; 
eonld  h.ave  ascended  to  it-  summit.  Tlie  clouds   from 

below  had  now  ascended  the  mountain,  and  eiilircly  enveloped  the 
summit,  on  which  rest  eternal  snows." 


THE  SI  AL.ACTITE  ORGAN,  (JKANL)  CAVERNS. 


CATHEDRAL  SPIRES,  '.arDEN  OF  THE  GODS,  COLORADO. 


m 


44 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


H  iiiL;  oiii\iiK'i.il   111    ins  iiwii   iniiwl   (il    Us    iii:k' 


ccssibililv,    Licu- 


tOlKlll 


t  I'iU 


I-  couUiiUd  limi 


>clt' witli  the  .ilxiM.'  I)rii.-I   iiciU-s  in  liis  ili.ir\ , 


little  lliinkiiii;  tlKil  liis  ii.iiiR'  would  Ihim.uk'  pirjK'tii.Ucd  in  llii-  ili>(.'ii\(.i\ , 
;ui(l  that  for  all  tlie  aj^es  tlR-rcalter  Tike's  I'eak  WDukl  lie  uue  ul  tlie  luosl 
faniinis  of  Auierieau  inonnts. 

Not  a;^aiu  was  the  Icuielv  desulatinn  of  the  uiouutain,  or  the  iu..i- 
velous  seeiK  r\  ahonl  its  hase,  disturlieil  \>\  the  iiuasion  of  e\|ilorevs  inilil, 


forlv-oue    \iars    latir,   ('■ 


I".    Kiixlou  eauie  as  a   huuler  to  \  iew  Us 


jjraudeiii  and  ui.ike  his  eauip  within  its  <;aiiie-haunted  shadows.  .Srnii 
afterwards  i;idd  w.is  diseo\ered  in  the  \ieinity,  and  then  (|nickl\  tollowed 
a  rush  of  adventurers  whose  hard)'  spirit  aeeonipli^lied  'hat  whieli   I'ike 


was  fe.irful  to  undertake 


.\u  .iseeiit   of   the   peak 


was  now   ui.ule  ami 


tlie  altitude  .iseerlained  to  be  1  1,171  fiet  al)o\e  tl 


e  sea  level 


Siniult.iueously,  throui;h  the  exphu-.U 


tloil  ot  ludustrioiis  pidspiet 


(US,  .ill  the  ni.un-  aui,i/iu,L;ly  eurions  foruialious  wllieli  iiow  render  the 
reijion  one  of  iiu-iunpar.dile  u.itur.il  ni.ireels  were  diseo\ered,  and  the 
settlenuuts  of  M.miton  and  Color.ido  .Spriuj^s  were  presently  made. 

Pike's  I'e.ik  has  been,  since  the  lime  of  Kuxtoii's  aseeiit,  an 
object  of  ijreat  interest  to  tra\'elers,  and  as  early  as  Is.'n'  a  roiiL;h  fnot- 
tniil    w.is    est.d)li>hed    to    the    suininit,    which    w.is    ,L;re.uI\-    impiow-d 


iwtutv  \ears  hitir 


,is  to  .idiiiil  the  pass.ii^e  oi  \i  hide- 


In  the  nuMu- 


tiuie,  the  towns  of  .Manitou  .ind  Color.ido  .Spriiu^s  li.id  ;,,no\\  n  ...tc.idilv 
and  the  iiuuiber  of  visitors  increased  until  some  one  concei\ed  the  ide.i 
of  couslructiui;  a  railroad  from  the  ba>e  to  the  siuniuit.     This  ide.i  was 


seized  upon  be  .-.onie  e.e 


tern  caj'ilalisis  in  b'^-*  t,  am' 


.1  l.irye  c.ipit.n  iielll 


subscribeil  for  the  purpose,  the  work  of  buililiiiL;   this  nnicjiie  n    d   w.is 
be!.;uu.    The  oriuiu.il  eouipan\  ,  however,  nut  with  diriicnlties  u  liieh  lliev 


were  luiali 


e  to  overcome  for  kick  of  c.ipit.i 
/ation,  under  the  title  of  Mauiloii  i\i   I'i 


mil  ill  !■"<■>•■<  a 


.ecoiKl  lUijaui- 


I'c.ik   Kailw.iv  Com 


pany. 


sue 


cecded  the  I'ir-t   corpor.ilioii,  .uid  ado]itinL;  what  i>  known  .i>  t!ie  Abt 


iheel    S\  >lem    of    .Mount. lin    Climliii 


d    tl 


rk    tl 


interrupted.      .\s  the  hii;lier  .iltillides   Were   re.ulud   the  ,iir  Incline 
rare  that   labor  was  extre.aelv  dillicult,  so  that  tli 


e  stronijest  men  were 


unable  to  exert  llieui>eKes  for  more  than  a  f 

place  of  wa.i^oii- 

b.icksall  the  needful  materi.ils  of  ties,  r.iiN,  li 


ew  luinntes  at  .i  time. 


In 


Iiiirro>  weie  iiniiIo\(.(l   to  carr\    on   their  slniiK    litlli- 

lid  spikes,  ii]i  the  .-.teep 


UKiniUain  side,  and  without  them  the  ol)..! 


icles  Would  M.i\e  been  iii'-ii]ier- 


able.  lint  thus  the  work  Weill  on  until  the  L'nth  of  (litolnr,  l"*'."! 
when  the  last  sjiike  was  driven  and  the  hiL;lie-t  r.iiiroad  in  the  world 
received  its  lini>hin.y  ^trllke.      .Spcci.d   locomotives  ,iiid  e.ir^  were  built 


JU.WKO  TUNM;I.,  (JK.N.ND  CWbKNS. 


!     i' 


IHB  CARRIAGE   ROAD  UP  PIKE'S  PEAK. 


!'l! 


;l'  ■iin' 
I 

■^     I  In 


I 


46 


AMI'iRICA'S  WOXDI'RUA.NDS. 


aiul  In  ilu- U'-i' nl\'n;^-\\  hills  till' piniKU'lc  I'l  I'iki''-.  I'lak  w  .i>  tin  ii.ilU  r  t" 
I'l' j;.niiiil  iMiiilnit,iM\  ,  it'  iinl  >\\illl\.  'I'lu'  liii,^lli  <•)■  till'  ic.kI  liailiii;^ 
to  llic  simuiiit  !•*  iiiiii.-  and  niK'-i|ii.irliT  iiiilis,  .iiid  .il  liiiR's  lln' v;t.ii!r  srinis 
]iiisiii\i'l\-  apiMlliiin  (  lii'liiy  !'•'>  IKT  I'l-iit.  1  a-i  ilk'  iini-il\ -lalHiiiiiij  riii^iiii' 
]iu>1iis  till-  ]vi>M  ii'^ir  I'lMili  u|>  ilk-  ili\  i^ii-.  «  a\ ,  ii\  ir  yri'at  bnwldi'is  that 
ii,i\i-  liiin  Ihnii;  iln\Mi  li\  m>iiu'  'l"il  in  iiMiii  iiniikii'-i-  hi-i^jhls  ahov  i-;  niiiliT 
iiMihaui^iiij^  lunws  111'  ihrialtninu;  lalhuhaU  ol'  stoik';  uwv  iii,ul-ila>liiii,i; 
\valirlall>;  lhniii;^li  I'vii-i^rii'ii  lnu>ts  ut  >iI\it  ])ini'>.  thiai  iiiln  ^;i(i\i-s  ol 
iluarf  ampins,  inilil  at  Kiii;th  thi-  iniili'  nai-lks  ii]i  ami  mi  ahnM-  tlk>  tiiii- 
liii  liik'.  'I'hi'  sliii'iks-i  ut  ilk-  A  a\  >lill  i-Kiitiliurs,  Imt  llkiv  au'  no  loiimT 
alnilliiii;  rmks,  nor  nish  nl  w.itir;  thi'  iinMiiitaiii  imw  ln-i'inno  a  iiuMsiircli'ss 
]nli'  111'  Imikiii  slnius,  IhIuhh  uhiili  ilk-  I'hiiPiiinnl.  ami  WdmU-hm'k  plaN' 


liiilc  ami  si-i-k;  mists  cf  clcim' 


lirijiu  1(1  ijalhiv,  the  smiw  liiii'  slmus  itsilt 


ln'\(iml   ilk'  bivatli  (if  siniiiiur,  ami  a  cdlcl  wimi  nishi's  anniml  iIk'  |)i'ak 
iiiakiii;4  spurt  of  ihi-  tnlirp:  isi-  that  iinadiil  tlnir  fiii^id  solitudi'. 

Altir  twii  horns  of  inisliiiij^  ami  clinitiiiij;  tlk'  train  ivasi-s  its  dup 
Rspirations  ami  stands  ^iiniini^ly  i'\lMMsti-(l  Uffiirc  tllo  stone  ohsi'vx  atoi  \ 
that  crowns  the   piak.      Ah,   now   what  a   \ii\v,  whiii   the  ch 

thi's  with  ^oldin  spk-ndor  ilk-  panorama  that  liis  in 


!'■ 


away  and  the  sum  lia 

the  j^natir  I'll,,. 'u  of  indi^linilm 


ni.in\    Umljui' 


hell 


I  ouards  the 


st  and  south  .nid  nortl;  is  a  niii,'ht\  ann\    of  nioinit.iins,  in  eoni]ianii 


l.atall 


ions,  liold,  niy.ijed,  niajestie;  alw,iys  st,indini,'  m  review  helore  the 


Captain  and  Creator  of  worlds  wlio  siiuis  i.i  h.i\e  h.ilted  His  regiment  k'r 
inspection  before  an  iiii])endiai,'  li.ittle;  while  awav  towar 's  ;he  east 
spreads  the  fadim,;  pr.iiries,  losini;  theiiisihis  in  the  hori/o;,  and  down 

is   Colorado   ,'^|irinj;>,   with    its 
and  its  snioke-stacks  like 


lielow,   111   a   loii<'  s 


stretch   of   lands 


interseetiiijj  streets  lookini;  like  a  corn-fK 


scare-crow- 


At  other  limes  a  terri'de  suow-slorni  nuie  lie  ra('iii<r  on  tli 


wnile  snininer  suns 


the  ])eak, 

hike  li.ithes  the  pi, nils  liijow;  or,  stamlin.y;  under  the 


arch  of  a  clear  sky,  the  suiiiniit  visitor  iiia>-  see  the  rolliii;,'  clouds  j,Mllieriii<,; 
into  scrolls  of  darkness,  and  the  livid  lii,'litiiiiiy;  runiiiiii,'  ihroni^jh  the 
stonii  th.it  is  lireakini;  in  lorreiili.il  rain  aw.iv  down  the  inountain  side. 
,So  that  winter  and  siininier,  slonn  and  sunshine,  ha\e  their  eternal  meet- 


ing; ])lace  on  the  :iL;e-s\\  epl 


ile.ist  ('I  tills  iMaii 


t  iK'ak,  ami  at  this  trxsti 


])lac'j 


if  th 


e  extreme  seasons  IS  one  of  the  iiio-t   lieauliful   lakes  that  e\er 


nestled  in  the  hosoin  of  a  niount.iiu. 


I  )ne  of  tlie  most 


world  is  I'tf  I'; 


]iic1uresciiie.  Inland   and   eharinin.:^   routes   in   the 


icli  starts  out  of  Mauitou  .iiul  cliiiilis  around 


IS,  throiii,'Ii  caniiiis,  and  ciner^'es  into  a  roadway  that  leads  direct  ti 


1 

t 

s 

\"   '        i.  r  ■             y 

A'^                      .    -^  ■  ■■.      -  "•■■■.'.■            ..^^: 

TH.MPLK   OF    ISIS,   WILI.IA.M'S  C:AN0N. 


'11"  I 


THE  JAWS  OH  CI.BAR  CRKKK  CASION. 


WILLIAMS  CAfsON,  NEAR  THE  CAVE  OF  THE  WINDS. 


AMKRICA'S  WONDKRI.ANDS. 


/ht.'f 


'  i. 


48 

I.iailvill'-'.  'I'l"-'  1""^'  t'l'amilul  section  of  this  pass,  howcvif,  is  in  si^l 
Maiiilou,  wlKTi-  it  rises  with  liolil  prei-ipitalioii  aioiiiid  llie  iiioiiiitaiii  side 
ami  I'asscs  Raiabow  I'alls,  wliicli  liasa  iRiluiuliiMilar  dcMiiit  of  seveiitv- 
fivc  tVet,  ami  looks  down  into  Cascade  Canon,  tliat  is  weirdly  wild  and 
awcs(.inelv  imposini;.  The  heanly  of  llie  pass  is  not  more  in  tile  ruui^ed 
margin,  bordered  with  preeipiee  and  waterfall,  lliaii  in  tile  marvelous 
colorinj;  of  tlie  roadway  and  abiUlini;  locks  of  sandstone  wdiicli  at  a 
distance  appear  like  tlie  petrified  primaries  of  tlie  rainbow  wrapjied 
around  the  nionntain. 

As  the  roail  winds  iipwaid  a  mile  Ironi  Alaniton,  a  branch  strikes 
off  from  I'te  Pass,  and  eontimiinj;  another  half  mile  around  and  up  the 
mountain  the  \i>itor  linds  tlu'  way  abrupth'  tenuinated  b\'  the  enlranee 
to  a  giant  c.ive  known  as  the  ('.rand  Ca\erns.  Like  most  places  to  which 
visitors  are  attracted  b\-  llainboyanl  aiKiitisements,  iliese  caves  are  not  so 
wonderful  as  thcv  ha\e  bt<  n  represented,  \  et  tlu'y  possess  considerable 
interest.  The  corridors  are  spacious  ami  comparati\el>  level,  with  lure 
and  there  formation-  of  stalactites  and  stahiKniiles  of  considerable  beant\  , 
thonj;h  never  lar;,'e.  Iv.ich  compartment  has  been  >;i\en  a  romantic  and 
attracti\e  name  intended  to  increase  the  imagination,  and  Ki\esnpp(Ut 
to  the  marxelous  talcs  with  which  ;;uides  entertain  \isitors,  such  as 
Canop\'  A\euue,  Alabaster  Hall,  .St.dactite  Hall,  (  »])era  House,  Concert 
H.dl,  Jewel  Casket,  ISrid.d  Chamlier,  etc.  The  (Uie  principal  object  of 
interest  in  the  Cir.iml  Ca\eriis — a  curiosity  iraleed — is  what  has  been 
denominated  the  "Ciniml  I'ipe  <  )ri,'an  of  Musical  .St.ilactites,"  a  forni.i- 
tion  which  !.;ives  forth  .1  ijrcat  variel\-  of  soinids,  cap.able,  under  tlu- 
skilful  touch  of  a  ]ila\cr,  of  proilncini,'  really  ear-entranciiif;  nmsic,  .\u 
"organist"  i>  euiploved  to  entertain  visitors  by  performing  man\'  famili.ir 
instnnnent.il  iiieces,  whnji,  emanating  from  such  a  strange  instrnnient, 
and  echoing  through  the  torch-lighted  clumbers  of  the  grotto,  produce  a 
charming  effect  not  easily  forgotten. 

In  another  compartment,  ])anicularly  dark,  il  not  noisome,  .lud 
partitioned  off  b\'  a  grating  to  prevent  ])rofanation,  are  deposited  some 
\erv  ancient  skeletons,  which  are  said  to  have  been  found  iunrned  here 
l)v  the  original  cave  discoverer  in  l^ixl.  The  photogra])her,  b\'  a  trick, 
has  ])ictnred  the-e  bones  as  gigantic  in  si/e,  whereas  in  fact  tiiev'  are 
slightly  smaller  than  tho.-e  of  modern  men. 

.V  half-mile  further  around  the  mountain,  towards  W'illi.im's 
Canon,  and  ap|)roached  l)y  a  long  stair-way  that  lead.s  down  to  a  dnsk\ . 
rock-hewn  platform,  is  tlie  entrance  to  the  "Cave-of-the-\\'inds,"  as 
nnforbidding  a  place  as  .Mephist(>plieles  himself  could  choose  for  his  abode. 


PILLAR  OP   .JUPITER,  WILLIAM'S  CaSION. 


I  iiir 


I   ! 


mi 


I . 


5" 
This 


AMHRICA'S  nOXDIvRl.AXDS. 
(.■aw  is  iidlliiii.y  iiiniv  th.ui  a  luiiiK'I,  too  iKirrow  w  ailinit  the  passage  of  a  faL  man  willnml  s(iiicc/.iii.y;,  and  with  coilinj<;s  so  low  as  to 


a  nctsor,    'l  unlinarx-  li 


iii,'lit  to  kti'p  a  stooped  position.  It  is  uj)  and  down  stccji  stair-ways,  across  chasms  of  uncertain  dcptlis,  and 
over  ohstrnctions  which  arc  (piitc  ciuni,i;li  to  exhaust  the  visitor  lict'ore  half  the  cavern  is  traversed.  The  stalactites  that  arc  found  here  are 
very  snlall^  hut  often  chistered  in  reseuiMance  of  chrysanthcuninis  and  other  comjiosite  plants,  l.ike  the  (Irand  Caverns,  every  little 
chamher  in  th'    Ca\c-of-the-Winils  is  desii^nated  by  some  curious  or  charni-inipellinjj;  name,  such  as  Cascade  Ilall,  Canopy  Hall,  Hostoii 

.  Hall  of  licauly,  Dante's  Inferno,  Crystal  I'alace,  etc.;  while  ihe  coral-like  stalactites  arc  re[)re.s(iitcil  1)\  the  tricky 

if  imposiui.,'  size  r.'.l  licwilik-  injj  splendor. 


A\.: 


Diamond  II 


plu),o,!,raplicr  as  lieiUi; 


'.uier'jinsj;  Ironi  the  s 


tilli 


ialf-arti(ici,il  Ca\e-of-tlic-\Vi 


and  passing;  down  the  hill  a  few  yards,  a  niajjnificent  view  of  William's 
Canon  Ixirsts  'i'  on  the  cnr.qUured  \  ision  of  the  spectator,  the  contrast  from  the  dismal  aiul  disaDpoinlini;  cave  lendini;  additional  sublimity 
to  tile  ;ie.  The  south  entrance  l<i  this  herculean  K'"'K^'  '^  within  a  short  walk  of  Maniton, 
and  at  llie  vcrv  door-way  tlie  walls  rise  up  ])erpcndieuliirly  to  a  slupeiulous  hei,i;ht  and  in 


fanla>tic  forn:s  ihal   p>i^iti\elv  bcwili'       with   a  };randenr  and  beatity  almost  uncxt 
anv  sccner\  in 


bv 


the 


erosion,  the  resn 
it  worj  oi't  .1  bvd 


!t  of  a  rusl 
hundreds 


This  ijii,'anlic  j. 
iu"-  torrent  that 


h   in  the  uioutUaiu 


(leutlv  the  effect  of 


drove  down  for  centuries  throuijh  the  pass  until 
feel  deep  and  then  fotnul  otlur  outlet,  or  became  absorbed  in 


the   luoccss  of  dr\in;4-np   which  the  world   is  underyoini;.      Ili.uh   upon  the  sides  of  this 
wcniilr<  J-     .  .'unel  uia\'  be  -ecu  the  di--liucl  ui.irkini'S  of  i;l,ieia!  drill  in  (le]Misits  of  shell-t'ish 
and  bo.-    '.       .  while  in  the  bed  there  are  fra.L'Uieuls  of  tuf.i,  betraviui^  the  .lelicai  of  volcanic 
_  fires  wli'   ,1  .;urned  out  a.tjes  upon  ajjes  ajL^o. 

Two  miles  north  of  M.iuitou,  ami  re.iclied  l-v  a  perfect  roadwaw  owr  which  earria.i;e 
driviii;.,'  i-^  ,i  supreme  ]iK.istire,  is  the  .t;,iti-wa\'  to  ill, it  chaotically  curious  and  'antaslically 
ui,ir\elo,is  di.-trict  known  as  the  Ciardeuof  tlicl'i'ds.  I  know  not  w  ho  >;a\  e  ii.'.me  to  this 
re.tjion  of  >;idtesiine  fonnitions,  but  its  ap|iropri,iteuess  lends  belief  tli.it  it  w.is  christened  liv 


or.e  who  li,id  in   mind  tlu-  heroes  of  .some  cisleni  m\i 


the  .\ss\  rian  or  Chinese,  or 


tl 


le  witciicatls  ot  till-  .S.uni.ins 


The  Cireeks,  tin   1' 


\om.iiis,  ,111(1    l-,i^\pti,ius 


uieened  t'ieir 


as  i)li\  ■  .cal 


perfect,  sMumetricallv  beautiful;  tlu 


if  tlioe 


[leoiile  con 


Id 


have  su.!L;.u;ested  the 
of  sw 


distorted,  coiij^lomeratc  forms  tli,it  are  iiiai 


halle 


111  til 


IS  t,fai(leii 
and   we  lia\e   here 


eet  confusion.      Vet,   the  (ireeks  pcisonilied  evil   in   horrid   forms 
the.'  '  .inceptiou  ol  deep  iiiii|nity  done  iu  u.itnre's  seul]ituriiij,;s. 

The  '  '..1   leijeiid-.  tell   us  of  l!ie  ,Sabb,il,  a  nocturnal  a-sfuibly  at  which  deinous  ,iiid 
.sorcerers  celebrated  their  reels,  and  to  tile  iiii,iL;iiiati\  e  mind,  stored  will;   remembnii 


the    talcs    wherein    ,ire    described    the    riot    ol    n.inieless    thin.!, 
per.soiiatres  around  die  thioiie  of  .Sal.in,  it   i 


id 


il 
ithsomelv    fearful 


is  e.i.-.y  to  f.iiicy   this  spot  as  the  assembling.;  p 


,\NVII.    ROCK,   (i.M'DlN     Ol     THH   (lODS. 
and  tlu  slram/e  forms  of  stone,  that  sit  like 


1)  luoustrositii  s  w.iiliiij,'  the  call  of  ,i  m.ister,  as  the  bodies  of  malericent  devils 


that  mound  s(|u,ils  old  ,S,ij.;itt.irv,  the  ni,in-ln-,ist  who  shot  .iriows  of  li^'htniiiir  from  his  1 


petrified   in  the  very  midst  of  their  ori^iis. 


Tli^ 


low,  until  he  W.IS  strue 


k  d. 


b\  ;;  boll  of  his  own 


lon'tiiy 


.V  little  beyond  is  the  foul  w  itch  S\  eora.x,  the  dam  of  C: 


liieh  Itjoks  afar  like  ;;  seethiuj,' 


hilian,  wlmse  ra\en  wiiij.;s  shelter  a  i 


lem 


(Miiac  proj/eiu'. 


Intlr 


;  (leiiression. 


ire,  sits  .\baddou,  the  luomotir  of  wars,  combustions  and  plajjnes,  his  face  awrv  with  fretful  an.xiety 


to  t'  .lew  his  course  of  destruction,      liehind  a  inonud,  that  may  well  be  called  a  hie  i.stwork,  stand  .1vK;eoii,  Cottus  and  ('.vfjes,  the  brother 


trijilets,  each  with  a  hnndred  arni^  and  fifty  heads,  who  made  war  upon  the  Til; 


ins  an 


(1  then  stormed  Olympus  with  stones  plucked  from  the 


core  of  .ICtii.i       Still  lurtlier  up  the  billMde.  protnidinj;  from  a  j^asli   in  the  side  of  a  KJant  bowlder  of  red  .sandstone,  is  the  distorted  face  ot 


1 

U*J 

'W  * 

'1 

J^^ 

1 

1           ,                               ' 

'  ■  * 

1                 /!^ 

^^^  ■  y^^ 

I 

(/j 
< 
a. 


O 


'll 


ire  these 


(W  THK  GODS. 


OHSLKVAIUKY   ON    iHH   SUMMI I    U|-    HIKHS    I'L  AK. 


'■»)■ 


I  Mr 


!     :l 


!  :f 


r 


AMERICA'S  WONDHRLAiNDS. 


UIK    HASS,    \HAR    MANITOU. 


(iAlBWAY  TO  GAKDEN  OK  THE  GOUS. 


^'1 


h 


'I!!- 


llll 


l>' 


■i'il 


■n; 


St) 


a  L-(inocmiS(.'  atUncluii;  w 


AMl'RICA'S  \\(  )XI)1-;RLAX1)S. 


li.il  !•- 


,11  a^  Tin-  DnU'h  \\\(lcliiii;,  ulu-rc  all  llio  .yoi 


coiiipan\  arc  (hsatlircd  (i\Urat;t.'(nis 


Iv,  (, 


)r  not  one  lias  a 


siilch  to  Ins  or 


lU'V  1., 


111!  lluA  an  nion-  i 


licr  slialiliv  siiiroiuuliiii^s,  ami   lookiui;   Im    all   llu-  woiiil 


k-fint  folks  lliaii  old  Moilur  ('iniiul\,  who  stands  in  a  nook  to  lu-rsolf,  trviu';  to  jjossip  with 

St  luv  tilth  tl'idiii;h  salivation.     Xot  far  bidow  her  i'-  Till? 


a  Iiaj;  \\  ho  has 


Idiot,  as  ri'inilsivc   apjiia 


rmu  a  ifliow 


as  i\ir  \  iolatiil  thi'   laws  of  natun,  .uid   who  niiijlit   wil 


II-  till'  olfsiiriii!,'  of  a  haniiian 


('.nmd\.      lint  thoro  arc  other  shapes  and  illi,s>ha])es  seareely  less  wonderful;  and  if  the  \isitor  is  at  all  iniaijin.iliee,  tlie\' 
variable  and  astoumlinj,'.      I>oie  never  pielnred  ereatnres  of  liis  fanev  more  weird  than  tlu-  wind-seuliilnres  of  Monninenl  I'ark. 


like   Mrs. 


take  forms  that  are 


I  nniinir   hael 


and    |M--in'. 


south  i>f  Colorado  "sjujims   some    four   or   live   mile:- 


ire   hroMijhl   auain    into   tl 


e    Roeky   ranjjc 


(1  enter  at  one  of  the  Che\i  nne  Cafions,  between   lieetlini; 


brows  of  tremendoiisly   hi,i;Ii   elitfs,  tliioni,rh 
dashinij  water-eoiirse  has  eaten   its  wa\ . 


eh  .1  mad. 
Whether  we  \  isit 
North  or  South  Cafion.  the  view  is  aui;nstl\-  sublime  and 
awful  in  its  <;raiideur.  We  stand  in  the  bed  of  the  !,'ori;e 
and  !;a/.e  upward  oi,  either  side  to  a  dizzy  hei.ijht,  wliire  the 
ea,i;les  lloat  l.izilv  about,  jusl  below  the  level  of  the  summit, 
and  bnihl  their  nest  upon  the  breast  of  the  escarpment  be- 
cause the  apex  is  sk\ -pieiviui;  in  its  Icifliuess.  Vet  tumbliny; 
diiwn  from  that  .i;reat  eminiuei',  where  the  .i,M'ay  spires  of  the 
!"-■ 


iks    are   duarfeil    b\     distance    until    they    ,i;row  thin    as 


iiceillcs,  is  a  stream  of  water,  fed  by  sjirinij 


tliat 


laii  ol  still  taller  ninuiUaiu.^  in  llie  rear,  riishin 


ay  111  tne 
.q;  in  tnmnltn- 


11. 1 


until    it    bleaks   iuici    se\en    w.iterfalls,    and    then 


checks  its  pace  as  it  joins  th.e  ri\er  that  runs  on  to  the  sea. 
A  stair-wa\  has  been  built  alom^side  of  the  falls,  by  which 
the  visitor  mav  nicpuut  to  a  hciiiht  of  two  hundred  feet,  and 
llieii  stand  niion  a  platform  and  watch  the  |day  of  Icapiii;; 
waterfall  as  it  lire;  ks  iiilo  rainbows  and  mist  below,  and  hear 
its  ce.iseless  soiiij  of  ])raise   miu.Ljliui;   uilh   the  echoes  that 


sp. 


it  between  the  canon  wal 


Thev  who  cm  fe 


no  ins|)i- 


lation  under  the  moviiu^  power  of  Clle\ennc  Mountain  are 
liopelessU  prosaic,  who  clo-e  their  ears  ai;aiust  the  mo>t 
eiitrauciiii;  luiuus  of  ualiirc 


^imiile    people    who   were 
reare<l  centuries  aijo  in  thiscradli-  ol   nalnval  wonders  lailer- 


It   is   not   str.iiiL^e  til. It   tl 
tl 


t.iined   str,iUL;e   conecptious 


.f    tl 


le   lairioiis    loruiatious  am 


THi-:  1)1  Tcii  \vi:i)i)i\i;.  momimim  I'\kk. 


uiiLihlN-  moiiutains  that  di^tiuLiuishcd  their  surrnmidin.i;s  from  oilier  pl.ice^.     Indeed,  it  wmild  be  matter  for  surprise  had  the 


primitive  tribes 


id   npliea\ed 


the  peaks,  fashioned  the  ^idtesciue  iiiiaiLjes,  scooped  out 


if  this  re.y;ion  left  no  lej;euds  telling;  how  M.mitou,  the  ('.re. it  .Spirit,  li, 
the  canons  and  set  his  siijii  of  ever-llowiiii;  mercy  in  the  wellinj^-  sprint;  and   roarinj;  waterfal 

Amou!,'  the  several  traditions  which  are  ]ireserved,  wi  have  the  fraj^'inents  of  the  foljowinj";,  which  appear  to  have  been  left  by  the 
Tollies,  who  nndonbtedlv  at  one  time  had  their  dwelliui;  jil.ice  in  the  Maniton  district:  A  certain  tribe,  whose  name  is  forgotten,  living- 
somewhere  ou  the  i^reat  pl.iiiis  towards  the  east,  were  driven  from  their  homes  by  a  mi^jhty  flood,  and  lieariiij;  that  lofty  mountains  lay  several 


■t\ 


5S 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDHRI.AXDS. 


(lays'  y  ;nicy  towards  tin.'  settius;  siiii,  tluy  fled  to  these  for  refll);e.  Ilavill!,'  thus  escaped  tile  fury  of  wiiat  they  lielieved  was  an  ani,'r\-  nod, 
aud  fouud  safet)'  under  tile  hinij^u  shadow  of  I'ike's  I'eak,  they  came  to  rej^ard  it  as  the  dwelliuj;  ])laee  of  Maiiitou,  and  instituted  a  form 
of  worshij)  as  an  exideiiee  of  their  jjralitude.  The  eliuiate  lieins;  healthful  and  the  re,i;iou  aliouudin;^  with  i,'anu',  this  trihe  prospered  aud 
so  increased  in  power  that  the\  made  war  ou  their  less  fortunate  uei<;lil)ors  anil  reduced  theui  to  sia\er\ .  In  other  wa\s  they  s<j  offeiuled 
Manitou  that,  havin<^  once  saved  tlieui  from  a  dehi)j;e  that  drowned  a  lar>;e 
])art  of  the  world,  he  would  now  punish  tlicm  with  another  flood  visita- 
tion. .\ud  so  the  windows  of  lie.iwn  were  opened,  aud  the  rair  poured 
down  in  such  \oluuie  th.U  tlie  \alle\  was  soon  overflowed,  aud  tile  rising 
waters  l)e,i;aii  to  rapidlv  cliiuli  the  niountaiu  sides.  IVrceiviii!.;  that  the 
deluLje  was  an  infliction  sent  upon  tliein  for  their  sins,  the  tribe  (.gathered 


TilH   l)H\ll's    loirril,  (IIIYIWH  r  WON  

all  of  their  possessions  .uid  wuh  them  liastene.l  to  ascend  I'lkeVs  I'e.-.k-which  no  one  before  had  ever  attained- 


.;reat  Spirit  of  all  that  tliev  ha.l,  with  tlic  hope  of  propitiatii,«  his  an^er       Ml  the  u^u  b.^  so  ",         li^  s  7     •    '•"'^  f"        ,     '^ 

1.1  1  /  1  *  .  *  1  I  M        •"  "w>^vi.         .\ii    tin.     IlKimttl.S  <>l    lilt.'    11]    )C'   SllCCt't'C  t'd    111    rficillinr   tlw    cnintnil 

wIktc  llu-v  ])ravo(l  so  Icrvt-iu  v  t  lat  tic    icart  of  M-uiitoii  n-I.-nf.-.l  n,wi   i,  .1  1  "'-'^^^"^u  in  rtat  iiiii;,  ur  sinnnni, 


MAJOR  DOMO,  dl.EN   EYRIE. 


NEEDLE   ROCKS,  GARDEN  OF  THE   (iODS. 


■|H|'  : 

nil 

1                f' 

i'lr      \ 
"1,1   ^^ 

■  !5 


f 


60 


.\MI',KIC.\">  WONDl'iRUAXDS. 


tluit  bv  tin.'  accivtioii  (il   tin.'  l)iinKiis  llius  n'ji'ctnl,  ihv  iiKMUil.ii 


h  liif^lur  lli.m  ii.itiin.'  li.ul  loitikd  il.     Tlio  ik'hiKi'  \v.i'-  fmall) 
liii'li  M.iiiitoii  iuu-li.iiiR'(I  fnnii  ;i  liuiiji'  un-k  ii 


caiiii'  unit 

a.ssiiaj4;i'il  !•; 

lieawii,  uluiv  il  w  1- 


.1  (Ir.nji'ii  \v 


L'l.t 


nnMMur,  ainl  sen 


I  (U 


til  ilriiik  up  all  ilk' 


This  (Ira'jnii  lu  \fi'  laiiK-  liack  to  luaxi'ii,  Ini   alti'i  alialiuL;  tin. 


wall':. 

floDil  it  was  ttinn-(l  into  sluiK'  and  laiil  mi  Clii-yi'iiiiL' 


M( 


piiiitain,  w 


1k-h 


its  cfdcoililian  innii  iiiav  still  In 


'iii/i'd  liv  an  ol)S(.T\i'f  .statiimi-il 


at  Ci 


„lo  Si 


iniii^s 


In  attir  linn.--,  a  ui  w  irilu-  canic-  intc  tlic  \alli'\  ,  and  liiidini;  it 


fruitlnl 


ni\  iliu'. 


tlK\ 


i'--taMi-luc 


tlui; 


liiinus  and   prn-.] 


lied 


well  that  tln\  soon  :^uw  nii;^lU\  .      I'lir 
<,'raU'l'nl  and    di\cinl.    sn   \MM>hi]iiul    an 


in.i;  u  ink' no  iii'iijik'  wiiv  sd 


kim: 


as  tliiA 


hnt 


•d 


ahva\  s  lni;rls  arto'^anrr,  and  in  tinu'  iIksi'  laMiivil  l)i'(il)k'  lu'cmn.-  Idk 
with  i-onci.il  anil  liii^.m  lo  I'^lirni  lln.-ni>el\ i-s  as  the  r(|nals  of  Manilo\i 
and  111  (Ui\  liis  |io\vtr.  'I'liis  .-.o  olknikd  tin.'  ('■real  Sinril  thai  he  •-rnt 
a  niiL;htv  host  ol   tnon>lcis  onl  of  the-  north  to  pnnisli  tin.-  vain  lii^ots 


will 
rem 


tl 


ins  eiiiiteiiined 


!nt  some  of  the  priests  of  the 


[lie  had 


ained  true  ill  their  deNotion,  and  llic-e  now    interposed   with  .Mani- 


toii  and   made  iilaiiv  ulUriiii, 
Tlicv 


and 


•aenliees    to    ai 


his   wrath. 


of  all 
came 


far  prevailed  that  m.inv  of  the  people  also  pnri^ed  iheli  hearl.'^ 


iiiii|nil\-,  and  Maniloii  was  piojiilialed 


As  the  host  of  monster.' 


.pin- 


down,  like  an   anii\'  of  in\iiieihle  Ceiitanrs,  snddeiilv 


Pike's  Peak 


ap|ieari 


as  if  on  liri 


•.lu 


lac 


of  the  Ciieat   Spirit 


•as  visible  above  il,  shinini. 


Willi  a  splendor  5,'realer  than  the  siiii. 


On  tlie  next  instant  tliat  invadinj;  arm\-  of  sal\  rs  ami  ^orjjons  was 


clia: 


•d    t. 


:  tone. 


id    il 


IS   their 


ies    lliat    sl.ind,  and 


pi  .stnre  in  str.iii.ye  iiu'oiiL^riiity  in  the  (lardcn  of  the  (iods,  ("ileii  Myrie, 
r.ear  Atliol  and  Mddkr's  (■•■eeli. 

Many  other  lei^ends  are  told  to  account   for  the  siiii.;iilar  k)rma- 
tions,  but  none  are  so  idd  and  often   rejieaUd  as  the  one  here  related. 

lieojilc  who  occupied  it 
as  possessini.f  supern.itnral  features,  a  f.ict  attested  not  alone  bv  the 
traditions    so    carefnlU-    tireser\ed,    bill    b\     rude    carviip'S    foiiiid    dn 


Tl 


lie  reijion  was  certaiulv  revrarded  bv  the  earl 


pieces  of  shale  dn<;  up  in  llie  valley 


fjypsum,  which 


ear  to  1 


of  ])releniatural  creatiu 


and   \viiii;eil  iuia.Ljes  carved  fn 
le  representations  of  a  concepli 


le  very  erne 
'riiese  relics,  however,  are   \er\'   few,  and 


by  lli;i 


proni 


lonnced  spurious. 


that   it  would   be  Ire: 


11^  on 


doubtful  sfround  to  atteiiii)t  to  iutrodi 
by  the  Tollecs  in  such  lei^eiids,  or  ho 


It  is  sufTicicnt,  therefore,  to  accept  the  cu 


idence  of  tile   faith  imposed 
they  soiiL;ht  to  perpetuate  them. 


riosities 


tliat 


th 


'A 


MblJKJNi;   UOCK.   MONLMMM    PARK. 


lilt-    inior.   MONUMKNT    IMPK. 


MOTHER  CRUNDY.   MONUMENT   PARK. 


'!'! 


f  ' 


it,'      !'■ 

'H' 

;  in  i^ir 


','.1 


i  i 


'I 


■H 


63  AMHKICA'S  WONDKKI.WDS.  , 

woPckMful  j;.u.l.n  i.Kulv  ;is  slr.ui;^.'  In.ik.  of  luittirc,  witlunit  omsidcring  the  l.ilts  luuulnl  .l.nvn  Item  ..  ciiu>liun,il.U  ...uui  ,  putULliiiK  1,. 
sliow  tliiil  till'  loiiiialiiMis  arc  tlu-  tiMills  nf  Miiii.Tiialiir,il  caiiM.s. 


PHANTOM   PM.IS.   NOP!  II   (  IIKVHNNK  CvSiON. 


CASTl.t   1  Al  I  S,  NORTH  CHEYENNE  CASON. 


CIIAl'TMk   III. 

THH  GRAND  CANONS  OF  WESTERN  RIVERS. 


rW.WIN'C.   pnlty  tli(ir(iiinlil\    |iliiit(i);i;i|ilK(l  tin-  nj^ioii   louiiiliilxnit   M:iiiil(>ii,   wf  liiulud  <mr  cniiuni  car  to  a  tr:iin  on  tlic  Colorado 

J       Miilhmd  and  ,staiu-d  wt^tward  for  Salt  I.aki',  and  to  tiiilialni  tlii'  sciiury  that  lay  lulwifii.     Tliu  way  led  anmiid  the  liasi'  of  I'ikc-'s 

^1       iVak,  jiassid  Cascade  Canon,  and  alonj;  lUar  Crci'k,  tlic  road  donlilinvj  n|ion  itsrlf  and  twisting  around  in  the  most  tortnons  course 

£      iinaninal)lc  in  order  to  jjct  tlirou),'li  the  mountain  di  filts.     MNcry  font  of  tlic  route  is  k'';hi<1i  '"I"  tlure  is  no  point  that  does  not  offer 

.-,       a  view  of  scenic  splendors  heantifid,  awesome  and  sidilinic.     »So  rujjK^'l.  tunndtuoiis  and  wonderfully  aberrant  is  the  way,  that  the 

■*        road  i)luti^,'is  throu>;h  no  less  than  eij^lit  tunnels  in  traversinjj;  as  many  miles,  and  thus  the  traveler  is  whirled  throU),'li  the  heart 

and  arms  of  the  mountains.     The  approach  to  (Ireeu  Mountain  l"alls  is  up  a  valley  which  spreads  out  iiUo  a  fasciualiuK  landscape,  where 

the  yreen  of  the  meadowlands  is  set  in 
a  brown  frame  of  sky-i)ierciu)f  peaks 
and  impcudinH;  cliffs.  lumtaine  Ki\cr 
refreshes  the  j^ladc  ih.it  opens  throUf;ll 
the  towerinj;  ranj^e,  anil  a  little  way 
from  the  town  the  walir  j^oes  leapiuj; 
down  hosier's  I'^alls  ill  a  sheet  of  Iii|ui(l 
crvsial.  It  is  from  this  cascade  that 
Ciieiii  Mountain  h'alls  lakes  ils  name, 
lint  besidis  this  deep  dash  of  broken 
water,  there  are  iii.iiin  other  beautiful 
falls  in  the  \iciiiity  which  have  served 
to  make  of  the  jilace  a  jiopular  resort, 
indeed,  one  of  the  greatest  ill  Colorado. 
Onw.ird  we  speed  thiouj^'h  \alle\s 
ananie  with  flowers  and  noisy  with  the 
laui;hler  of  j^ainboliuir  slreain>,  until, 
seventy  miles  from  Color.ido  Sprin;^s, 
we  i)lnn,i;e  into  a  K't^'J  known  hv  it.s 
leii<;th  as  Ivleven-Mile  Canon.  It  lies 
directly  in  the  wa\-  lo  .South  I'ark,  and 
is  wonderful  not  .so  much  for  its  dark- 
ling-depths  as  for  its  marvelous  petri- 
factions and  other  natural  curiosities; 
its  jjreat  masses  of  granite  that  have 
broken  awa\'  from  the  ]>eaks  above  and  become  a  wall  to  the  turbulent  torrent  that  has  cleft  the  mountains  on  its  bridleless  way  to  the  sea. 
Thence  our  train  winds  around,  up  hill,  i)ast  lakes,  trout  streams,  and  ranches,  until  we  stoj)  a  while  at  Hiieiia  \'ista,  where  the  train  pauses 
on  the  side  of  Gold  Hill  Mountain,  fnllv  one  thousand  feet  above  the  town.  From  this  natural  observatory  a  beautiful  view  is  had  indeed: 
63 


CRYSTAL   l-AI.IS.   CASCAnK   CANON. 


:'i 


I  'I 


1"  ■ 

ll 

uv  : 

"'  .III 

ll,' 

( 

"''»  ;■ 

'lii 

f 

ll    ! 

!  -J 


n 


m>^ 


64 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDHRLAXDS. 


Jk'lciw  is  the  iiiadK  -nisliiiii;  Arkansas,  aiul  tin.-  sil\i.T\"  C<itl"nw(>iiil  Cii'tk 


that  j 


oiiis  its  wati'i'S  willi  llio  riviT  at  lliis  point,      liui-na  \'isl.i  is  in  a 


valley  tl'.at  vHc 


liki 


in  t-nUTald  in  tlu-snn,  across  wliich  r. 


a  i;i.int 


bank  of  •       .mains  known  a.  iIk'  Satinarlic  lan'-i-.  in   whiili  wc  ilislin- 


sh  tl 


le  i-olli'niati'  trinity  of  mounts  Ilarvanl,   Yak-   and   I'rint'i'ton, 


eacli  lii'inj. 
R.K-kv  Mo 


above  II, feel. 


tile  foiiiier  tile  second  liij^liesl  in  tile 


.SnowN-  and  vSaii"rc  de  Cristo  raiiijes  are  also  visible 


from  this  point,  ^'.liile  elexeii  miles  up  Cottonwood  Pass  is  Cotti 


Lake 


a  \er\'  i'eiii  set  in  a  wilderness  ui  siiow-eo\ered  iieaks.      It  is  tl 


same   dist.iiiee    fiom    liueiui    N'ista   to   the   snminit   of   Mt.    I'riiieeton, 


reached 


an  eas\-  wa^ioii  road,  and  on  this  loftv  i)edestal  the  oliser\er 


s\vee|)S  till'  horizon   with  enraiitnied   \  ision   that   commands  a  \iew  of 


liuiicirtil   mile- 


Salida,  I'oncha  I'.iss,  tl 
Pike's   Peak 

miles  to  the  north,  near  lii 
id 


le  wule  expanse  ol  Sonth  P.irk,  and  tjr.nid  old 
a-.,.,-.-  ■  Twin  I.'kes  are  twent\-li\e 
Peaks,  where   the  sportsman   finds  a 


iradisc  and  the  lualtb-seeker  is  exhilarated    with   b.ils.iniie   winds 


i-hile  all   an 
".•  -ator  is  ex 


hibile 


iRiie\er   \va\    we 


in  llie  nil 


look,    tl' 


e  oninitxitenee 


.f    tl 


■hii 


.f   His  h.i 


e  eartn,  oahhlin 


lii 


in  lla'  weirdly  brok(.n  landscape  of  jocnnd   monntaiii   ])eaks 
of  ).;ranite  torn  from  the  .tire.il  l"."art   of  the 
tnnil)Iini;  waler-f.ills,  and  teemiay;  \allevs. 

AUer  le.uiiiL;   I'ueiia  \'ista   the   ronte   \ 
River,  tlironi,;!!  son-ewh.it  less  ruijijed  sceiiere, 


>rk  as  displaved 


Dow  Ulers 
streams, 


the   Arka 


111(1  on  h\- 


Iv 


citv  whose  lifi-  is  drawn  from  the  bowels  of  the  mount. 1 


.ille,  a 
The  whole 


terrUorv  is  si 


fl 


L-kled 


dotted   with  ei 


le  houses,  and  derricks 


tunes,  and  cavities,  where  the  cupidity  of  man  has  l.iid  a  tribute  1; 


the  everlastins;;  hills,  ; 
the  exercise  of  his  t;ei 


lectHisj   It  1)\ 


th 


e  sweat   ol    lus 


The  road  continues  to  rise  until  we  reach  ll,i'.4enii,in  Tniinel, 


inammoth  passa^e-w.iy  bored  through 


hs  1 


ellijtll    IS 


llil 


feet,  and  to  jirovide  perfect   ventillatioii   the  cut   is  ei'dit 


and  nearlv 


hiuh. 


lie   yracle   is 


from  Colorado  .Sp: 


eeii   feet  wide 
eontimiall\-  ascemlinjj;  one 


to  this  ])ipint,  where  an  ahiliide  of  H.-'iodfe 


et 


is   reached,  aid  the   slojie  t( 


Is   the    Pacific    bcLli 


emery;e  from   .Iaj;eriii.iu   Tiiuuel,  I.ocli    h.uihoe    bursts 


J 


list    as    w\ 


no  ^dt 


VlVw, 


a   silverv 


lei.   111. It   wr,ii>^  the  cold  fiel    of  .Sliowv    M 


V   :ile  off  to  the  •■.  It,  like  a  sii. 
Mount  of  the  i'"]v  Cro 


ountaiii, 


bit-  shrine,  vi 
fails  to  excite 


i:^n  oi  hope  to  the  Christian  tr.iveler,  is  tin 
'Phis  wdinlerlnl  ])eak  lias  become  a  verit' 


sill     as  it  1 


s  by  thcius.inds,  wlwise  reverent  fe 


he  nioiintaiii  obtaius  i 


ts   name 


;i- 
elinys  it  never 
repiitaiioii   from 


Tin;  p,i:aks'  cavh,  nl.vk  i.I'i;i;,n  i.akb. 


III)' 


■IIIC 


"»- 


IHU  I'UKIAL  Ol-  (jHANU  1*1  VHR  CASiUN. 
5 


^H 


'f  fl 


66 


■ 


I 


iili  cxUiiils  ;i  distaiiCL-  ui  sixteen  miles  tliroii^li 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDI'IRLAXDS. 

the  ckfts  on  il-  northern  side  near  the  Munni  .,  v.-Jiieli  are  in  the  form  of  a  en.ss  an.l  in  whieli  the  snow  lies  at  sneh  a  .U'l-th  that  summer 
MiMS  never  melt  it.  The  hei.i,'ht  of  this  y..:.k  is  ll.lTf,  feet,  hnt  thon-h  not  so  lofiv  as  >onie  others  in  Colora.l,),  it  is  apparently  more 
t-NiHised  and  holds  the  snow  lon;;esl,  the  summit  lieint;  nearlv  alwaxs  covered. 

The  next  iniint  of  interest  on  the  way  to  Salt  Lake  is  cjenwood  Sprinv;s,  situated  .it  the  jnnetion  of  Crand  and  Roariu.u;  I'ork 
Uivers.  This  pl.iee  derives  its  imiiortanee  from  its  numerous  thermal  sprin-s,,f  ^reat  reniedi.d  virtues,  and  the  l.eautifid  adorunuails  whieli 
u  lavi.-h  hut  well-direeted  use  of  mouev  has  provided.  The  situation,  too.  i>  one  of  -re.it  u.itnr.d  i.irtureMineness,  as  the  seeuerv  rivals  tli.it 
alioiit  M.initou.  Cdenwood  Sluin.ys  is  loe.ited  at  the  head  of  draiid  River  Ciuoii, 
colos^.il  uMunt.iins,  the  ]iali- 
s.ldes  of  whieli  rise  in  serieil 
ranks  and  tenuiuate  in  towering 
columns  and  j^iijautic  turrets 
freiiueiU'y  :.'.i""l  feet  above 
the  bed  t<i  the  river.  It  i> 
through  this  tveineudous  chasm 
that  the  railroad  runs,  so  th.u 
travelers  have  a  perfect  view  of 
the 'I'it.mie  >ecnery  from  the  e,ir 
windows,  .i>  thev  are  whirled 
through  it.  Three  miles  from 
("■lenwoiKl  S|irin.!,;s  is  .No  N'anie 
C.inoii.  while  lurther  up  the 
.slvuim  is  ,1  iriiuendous  lissnre 
which  .idmits  the  river,  .iiid  on 
account  of  iis  wildlv  sav.iye  ap- 
pe.ir.ince  is  c.ukil  {'tv'\//]y 
C.inon.  Tell  miles  more  to- 
w.irds  the  river's  source  is  lU.id 
Iloi>e  Canon,  which  ma\  he 
,<;aiiied  oulv  at  the  expense  of 
mo^t  l.ihorious  effort,  for  tin.' 
tr.dl  is  o\er  i^reat  bowlders  and 
alon;4  cniinbliny;  walls  which 
frown  f.ir  above  the  ro,irin<; 
w.iter-,  below.      Hut  avv.iy  up  in 


svi  A'  \N  I  All  s,  (;as(  aim-:  (  \m  in. 


this  darksome  retreat  of  nature,  wlicrc  the  lion  and  bear  have  their  haunts,  is  Meteor  I'alls,  tli.it  lea]is  ,ilmosl  out  of  the  mouth  of  the  canon 
and  hurls  its  waters  down  a  precipice  nearlv  one  hundred  fi'ct  deep,  anil  then  spreails  throuj>h  erevico  of  the  rocks  into  a  score  of  si|>arate 
streams.  Not  f.ir  distant  is  .Mix.inder's  Cave,  which,  thoiii;h  not  so  well  known,  is  uiucli  j^rander  in  si/e  and  more  curious  with  st.il.iclite 
forniations  than  those  near  .Manitou,  which  have  an  undeserved  fame.  I'Voni  the  sunimit  of  a  mountain  just  east  of  Cdeiivvood,  and  reached 
bv  ,a  w, ilk  of  three  miles,  an  inuneiise  e\pansi-of  charminsj^  seeuerv  is  viewable.  I'orseveiitv  miles  towards  the  east  extends  the  snovv-crovvned 
chain  of  the  Continent, il  Divide,  while  tuw.irds  the  north,  like  a  b.ibe  slceiiiuL;  to  the  Inll.ibvs  of  a  brooklet's  vuice,  lies  the   White  River 


i 


^l\\ 


1  ,'1' 


BOOK  Cl.irrs,  walls  QV  grand  river  CA^iON. 


r 


^1 


''I 


IIIC 


Hi 


i      !''i 


NEAR  HANCE'S  CABIN,  GRAND  CAlvlON  OE   THE  COLORADO. 


^ 


1^ 


•o  AMI'.RICA'S  WOXDKRL.WDS. 

i:ivi,y:iti"n  (lurinj;  tlu-  most  I'aMii.ililf  sta'^cni.      'I'lu-  pr.K-lir.il  roults  wcit'  not  .if  vi'iy  yu-.il  v.ihu',  Imt  lii--  ii'|)(iits  wi'ii'  fxtniiulv  iiiUTcstillj;, 


cliiclly  U'T  llii.'  (k'Sfiiptions  nl  inavw 


Ions 


st'L-iRTv  wliu'h  llu\  iMiilauKil.     ( )r,  as  In-  wriu 


Ik-  u,:^inii  (.virliiicl  altiT  leaving;  tlu'  iiavijjalilc 


irticiii  cit  llu'  Ci'lnrai 


-lh(iiij,'h,  ill  a  sciintilii-  I'oint  of  vii'w.of  tin.'  liiijlicst  iiiti-rcst,  and  iinsiiitiiii;  iiaUiral  fi-aturcs  wliosi  stiaiiKc  sublimity 


is  |)nlia]>'-  un]>aialli'Ki'  in  an\   p.iM  of  i!k'  \mii1i1 — is  not  of  nniL-li  valiK." 

Siil>sri|iuiul\  till  I '>o\iinnK  lit  (UlciiiiiiKil  to  illtft  an  ixploration  of  tin.'  Ik-aiKvatrrs  of  tlio  Colorado,  ami  to  lliis  fiid  Major  J.  W. 
Powxll,  rliiti  of  till  r.  S.  Siu\\>  Corps,  \\,is  suit  out  in  tli.iri^t'  of  a  ]i,iit\  of  .1  do/tii  ti|U.ill\-  inlRjiid  iiKii,  witli  iiistinctioiis  to  di-sccnd 
till'  stiv.iin  if  ])ossihU'.  To  .uconiiili>li  his  purpose  .M,ijor  l'ou(.dl  jjiovidcd  (uur  staiinclil\-ljiiilt  low-bo.its  in  wiiicli  lie  and  his  jiarty  dcliarkcd 
at  ("■rccn  Ki\i.T  Station,  on  the  :.'ltli 
of  Mav,  l^il'.i,  to  run  tin-  oar.ntKt  of 
canon,  in.Rl-troni,  raiiids  ,nid  u,itir- 
f,ills  in  till-  firirn  ,ind   Coliii,ulo   I\i\' 


It    is    to    M,ii..r    rowell's  rt 


pint 


that  We  .ire  imUliled  lor  deseriplioiis 
of  tile  terril>l\  siiMiine  seeiier\  of  these 
two  stre,iin>,  wliieh  siiip,i-s  in  wninUr 
e\el\'  otiier  re;„;ion  oil  tile  j;lolie,  ,111(1 
to  the  plioloorai-iher  of  tint  expedition 
We  111, ike  onr  aekiiowledi^inents  lor 
Several  of  the  \iews  wllii'h  .ire  here 
.Mr.  W.  II.  jaekMin,  who 


reprmlneei 
wa.-  for  a  lont;  while  .itl.u'hed  to  the 
survey  em'ps  as  photos^'raplier,  luis  also 
kindly  furnished  ns  with  a  nniiiher  of 
e\iini>ite  pictures  of  the  more  accessi- 
ble cinoiis  (if  the  Colorado,  and  to 
him,  therefore,  credit  in  lary;e  share 
must  be  ,i;i\en.  ( )iir  ow  n  ])arl\  ,  w  hile 
lhoron!.;hl\-  ei|iii]iped  for  plioto;.;iMpli- 
iii.t;  rei^ions  contii^'iious  to  railroads, 
was  nn;irep.ired  for  iiKikiiii,'  a  trip 
down  the  iii'i>t  dani^'erons  of  river--, 
and    we  h,i\e  aceordiiiLiK    been  coin- 


jielled  til  rely   for  our  i'liotiJc^r,i]ihs  of 

tliedreeii  and  Cii.m.ido  C.iriiiii>  npwn  the  work  of  those  above  credited.      Condensing   .is  niueh  as   possible  the  elabor.ite  and   entn 

report  of   .M.iinr  I'owell, 


of  color> 


as  it  fills  a  \er\-  lar;.,'e  volnnie,  his  e\]ilor,itioiis  mae  be  thus  li.istile  describid: 
.\lniost  fnnii  thebejTinnin.L^of  the  trip,  the  scenery  was  deli,i.;htfnl,  varie;^rated  as  it  was  with  hi-h-reaclii 


nciiif; 


iii;  cliffs  d\ed  in  "real  varietv 


.ind  ,.in;j;  lines  ol  iiioinu.iins  strelcliiiiL;  awav  into  an  inlinitv  of  di--taiice.      The  blue  skc  al 


the  side,  empurpled  clouds  eatchim.  the  tints  of  a  riMiit;  and  .-ettiii-  sun,  and  lines  of  buff,  red  and  b 
made  a  iiietnre  whicdi  110  jiainier  has  the  yeiiins  to  reproduce.      C.reen   River  enters   the   .Mint.a  ])1 
reaeliiiiLr  the  heart  of  the  di, 


iliove,  iifein 


)f  forest 


pines  alon^ 


rowii,  niarkiii''  the  strat,i  of  the 


])latean  liy  the  I'lamini;  <'>ori,'e,  and  after 
liii  tiirn>  eastward,  then  M.iilhward,  cnttin.n  its  way  out   by  tlu-  splendid  canon  of  hodoie.      Then  follo\vin»-  the 


AMI'RICA'S  WOXDI'RI.WDS. 


li;isi'  1)1  tliu  raiii,'!.'   fur  ii   few   mil 


a   suilik'ii  Mil 


si'l/fs  il.  Not  onUi'iit  will)  llii'  li-nililc  k.i>1i  ii  h.is 
inllii-U-il  ui"in  llii-  u^lilu  ch.x'vA.  it  d.nl-  al  it  \i^■iMll^l\ 
(ini'c  iiuiif  and  lui^  a  Imi-i  ^lim-  (.Mrioii  in  il-  llaiik 
:.', 7(111    itii    iKi  ]!,  iluii    twi-t-  ami    i'nurL;(s    mar    tlic 


lioiiit   lit   (.'iitranft.-. 


Tluia-ii";  ivanl  tin-   rivi'r  runs  a 


tonmin>  conrsc  iif  'M»>  niiks  LJirnnj;!!  !.;i.'nliy  imliiu'il 
t(.'rrai.'i.s  which  ri-i>  jirailnall>  as  tin-  striMiii  (Uscinds. 


I'nrllaT  dnun 


to   I- 


the  Kailiali  (  li\U'k-.kin  i    I'laliMU  ri-rs 


mliM    its  iMssa-i-,  and   a    chasm   .'i, '  In    i'.^>'« 


Icct  Is  tin.-  n 


lit. 


1r'  w  link-  pre 


iviiK'i.'  Is  a  \ast  (.-ati'- 


•jorv  of  instamis  ol  liwr  channtls  cmtin<,'  tlirouv;li 
platians,  nu-as,  and  tcirai'is  u  luri-  tin.'  strata  dip  n]i- 
stri-aui,  as  will  In.'  nion-  parlicnlarK  disci  ilnd  in  the 
snnnnarv  of  Major  I'^wcH's  lia/ardons  cxploialion-. 
Si\t\  miles  from  Circcn  Uiwr  ihe  expidilion 
floated  into  Mamim;  Ciori^-c,  a  chasm  fifteen  hnmlrcd 
feet  in  iKplh,  throu^^h  uhi.h  the  w  '.cr  ponred  in 
swift  niea-nrcs  and  iia\e  intimaliMn  of  a  nioic  impetn- 

cd   the  ''allant 


course  further  down.     But  nudtterr 


P' 


Kirt\  iirocceded,  ihron 


■Il  Ued  and  llorsc-hoc  C-inon 


idicre  the   w.dls  drew  closer  and  liiy;  liowlders  in  the 


stuam   c.ir,~i  d  llie   u.i 


ter   to   lioil 


with   such  oniiiions 


sii^jns  th.it  pnrt.iL;e  aiduud  the  olistructions  was  neces- 
s,n\  .  Tliere, liter  the  w.iv  became  more  dilliciill,  lot  to 
daiij,'erous  rapids  wire  added  lofty  f.ills,  while  aloiiij 
the  Verticil  w.dls  in  ]ilaccs  there  w.is  scarceK-  a  :pace 
to  set  foot.  lMe(|Ueiith  the  oiiK  po>,.,il.le  means  of 
Jiassaije  w.is  li\  lowerin;^'  the  boats  b\  ropes  att, idled 
to  .stem  and  stern,  which  la.\ed  the  stren.i.,'th  of  the 
liicn  as  well  as  the  stanncliiiess  of  the  crafts.  Time 
and  ai^aiu,  in  rniiniii'^'  r.ipids,  llie  boats  were  ca|i-i/ed, 
bill  beiiijj;  built  in  water-ti.;,!it  comp.inuieuts  the\ 
and   were    a    refiU'C  for  tile  men, 


ri>;hled  tliemscKi 
who  c 


uu!j;  to  the  sides  until  they  drifted  near  the  shore. 
At  one  ]ilace,  which  .M.iim  I'iWell  named  Hisas- 


ter  I  .1 


lis,  one  of  the  bo, Its   w,is 


swept  o\er  a  Mil  and 


carried    down    to   a  rapid,   while,    slrikiiii.;    broadside 


against  a  bowlder,  it  was  lirokeu  in   I 


Wo,  leavinu 


the 


tl 


iree    occupants    adn 


It    to    battle    witll    tl 


le   siir-riiii] 


w 


I 


\mi:ku;  \s  \\(im»i;ri..\M).>. 


\v.iUT>.  Tlu'ir  f-iMiif  iti'iii  ilinuiiinn  w.is  .iliiin-i  a 
ik;;-,u1i-,  «lui'  to  y'^il  liu'U  .mil  llu'  i  Mi.int.liii.in  tllniis 
lit  l!uii  lir.iM'  iMini.iiU- 
iiiiifi.  ill. Ill  ."i.iiiMi  In  I  Inj^li,  .111(1  (1 


ill  lliis  >|lnl   ih 


r.iuii  -ii'  lu  If  li>''i  llur 


tli.il 


milv  .1  lliiii  >iiiti  cif  .sis 


\    w.i-i  \  i-ii.U',  w  liuli   111 


liii;lil-tiini.'  .iiipiMriil   111  ti>l   IT.   llu    i,ii;>;iil  iili^c-;  of 
thv  cliffs. 

Si\U(.ii   il.i\s    .ificr    iluiv    ill  p.iilii;\'    (rniii    llu' 

.sl.lltilll^   imillt,   liu-  .1i!m  lltUlMlis    JMllv    will-    sv\i[il   jutn 


lIliss.U     W,l 


IN  nil 


I.iiilulV  C'.irinll,  wllirll  lAll'lllls   its   I'l 

t\vi'iU\ -tiiiir  liiilis  of  till'  riwr,  Miuutiuus  in  llii'  funii 
of  Ii.ni^iui,' clills,  tniisltil  .nil!  yi,i\  with  slinitnl  Mi^i- 
t.Uinll,  ;iiiil  lisini,'  lu.ivU  lliiii'  tIiii'i--.iU(l  fiil  .ilii.w  llu' 
.slivaiii,  .mil  .iLi.im  in  ln.iiuilul  Ummi-is  nf  lul  s.iinl- 
.stmie  til, It  spiLiil  u|i\v.iril  till  iIkn'  .uc  lu-t  in  llic 
Uintah  Miiuiii.iin--. 

K  u.is  iini  until  tun  niiiiitli--,iiti,'r  li.iviiii;  ( '.inn 
Kiwr  .'^tatinn  tli.il  tlir  ivplnu  is  aii|iro.ulHil  tlk'  jimr- 
tii'ii  with  ('ii.mil  kivii.  As  thi.-\'  ilriippi-il  out  nf  tlii.' 
wiiiilinj;-  ).;iii,i;i.-  whi.in.-i'  iIk-v  h.ul  (k-si'cniKil,  thiv 
cauj.;ht  a  \ii.\v  nl  .i  unnilrnns  llssun-,  (Imvn  whii-h 
]iiinii.il  a  ni-.hin.L;  ^tiiMiii  wliii.Ii  .i;i|uatril  tn  i-siu'  frmn 
the  viTV  IhiwiN  111  till.-  earth,  .so  hottnliik-ss  siiiiRil  the 
clLinncl.  It  i.\.is  Ciiaiiil  Ki\cr,  which,  in  ni.iin-  re- 
spects, is  the  '.■iiimteriKirt  of  its  sifter  .stream,  h.ixini; 
the  .s.iine  features  of  u.iterf.ill,  r.ijiiil,  anil  awesome 
cafiiiii,  into  which  the  sr.:ili-ht  f.ills  only  ,it  iniiUl.iv  , 
ami  where  iii,i,'!n-liiiil.s  a-e  mi  the  win;.,'  alimist  cmi- 
MaiitK.  It  is  a  littiny;  tliiiij,'  th.it  these  two  rein.irka- 
l)le  rivers  shiiiilil  ini\-  their  fretful  waters  ami  flow  on 
l(ii;etlier  ill  a  iHV|uiu.il  i|uarrel.  tlirmii^h  arid  |ilaiiis, 
until  tliev  eml  their  diMirenres  in  the  dulf  of  C.i'.if.iriiia. 

The  Colnr.iili)  Ri\er  is  foriiieil  li\  a  union  of  the 
Ciianil  anil  (',hmi  Ri\ers,  the  former  lakiii<r  its  lisc 
,  and  the   i.ilt^-   ha\inij;   its  snnice  in 


near  I,oin;'s  \\ 
the  Wind  Ri\er  .Momit.iins  of  Wyoiiiiiii;,  within  a  few 
iiiilis  of  I'reiiioiit's  I'l.il;.  The  two  stre.im.s  form  a 
junction  near  a  imint  known  as  I-'ort  Morrison,  in 
southeast  I'tali,  at  the  head  of  the  most  ai)|i.illiii;,r 
j,'or;^e   in  the  world,  cdled  the   (,i,ii/,/    C.nnni  o/'  tltr 


■^ 


-6  AMI- 

Coloiihio.     Tlic  S'-cnrrv    nlcuij;    ln'tli   tlu-   (^.i.iml   and 
(■rcon  Ri\ers  is  iiu  \]':issi!>l\  Mi!>lir.u\  risiiii;  into  tow- 


ering; InilKs  DUt  (if  ll;-,'  I'lain^ 


.'arinj;  to  tin.-  I'lnnds  in 


tl'.oforni  of  iiuinntains;  iv\(.llin<;  in  l!k' wilili --t  (li--<'nkf 
of  Luulscapc,  and  tin.-  ini»l  tnilnilinl  jMnoraina  of  niad- 
dasliini;  staan.s  In  !\\ri.n  walls  ol  ania/;i:.i;  luij^lU;  but 
the  wild  passion.^  of  lio'.h  vi\i  is  sicin  to  lie  united  wiili 
niorc  tliaii  don'ilc  intensitv  wlu-n  llu\  iiiin^K-  tlkir 
waters  and  tlienee  lieeonie  one  tntl'id  llo,.d  ^nawin^;  ,i 
way  tliioUi;li  tile  soutliwe>t  di-iit.  How  haul  it  is 
for  the  ine\iierienet d  i\e  to   e 


the  treiiiendi 


..tell 


ins  chasm  ol   tlie  (.oi..t. 


a   nu  nlal   \  lew  ol 


do,   1 


lowiwr  rial 


i-tic  a  desenptue  writer  may  paint   it,  l.ir  h(.iL;lit  and 
lUptli  alino>t    lo^e  their  sii^iiiru- inee  wlun   \\i    appl> 


thet 


eniis  to  di//\  era;;s  alio\  !■ 


,iiid  the  dark  loiiesonu 


jf  I'lntoiiian  n 


111.  Ilea;  ll. 


The  rc'iou  I'-romjh  wli'.h  the  chaliiii. 


water.- 


Cl.ll  '■   I'llNs   IN    [III    <  :\\.  ).\. 


w 


<  { 


ili>lr.m.!,'lU 
'I'Ir'  c.irtli  is 


-S  AMHRICA-S  WOXDI'IRI.AXDS. 

of  the  Coloni.lo  r.;n  i.  tor'-i.Ulin-  in  the  cxtKMiie,  a  vast  S.iliara  ol  waste  ml  iiiulility;  a  desert  to.)  drearv  lor  eitlier  ve-elal.le  or  animal 
life;  a  land  that  is  liaunted  with  win.l-storiii.  on  whieh  ride  the  luiies  of  desolation.  lUit  I'lere  is  in  its  verv  hleaUness  and  consnniplue 
de-eneiaev  sonieihin-  tliat  appeals  to  the  ohserver;  a  svinpatlu  is  aioused  that  stiinnlates  eoiuenii>Iation  of  tlie  wondrons  works  of  Deity,  1. 1 
the  omnipotent  hand  that  sows  seed.s  of  j.Ientv  in  one  i)laL-c  and  sealtirs  tares  of  poverty  in  another;  that  makes  the  vallexs  to  lan-h  with 
verdure,  and  the  jdaiiis  to  wail  with  nakeilne.vs.  In  this  sterile  domain,  this  l.oiderland  of  phanta-v  and  lealitv,  nature  is  ' 
that  the  supernatural  seems  to  hold  eariiival,  and  in  the  forms  whiell  we  here  hehold  time  is  constant  sn.i;i,'eslion  of  ehaos, 
parehed  to  sterility,  and  yet  there  are  alnindant  evidences  that  in  eeiitnries  lonj;  ap)  this  same  land  was  ahiindantly  blessed  with  an  ama/anj,' 
fertililv.  I  )Lpre>si.>ns  raniif)- 
iii;.;-  the  region  are  llie  dr\  heds 
of  what  were  oiue  water- 
eonr>es.  and  the  wlinlf  plalia'l 
is  i^arish  wuh  loeks  o\er 
which  lile-i^ixint;  lloods  onee 
ponied  their  \i\il\inj^  iionrish- 
inent.  Unl  the  friaMe  natnrc 
ol  both  soil  and  roek  has  j;iven 
wa\'  before  the  aetion  of  the 
ri\er.  which  lias  cnn^tantly 
deejieiled  its  path  and  ill  aim  d 
the  nuusture  inim  the  earth. 
Now  it  is  '.ike  the  .M'"in,  a 
parched  di-trict,  sa\e  ic.r  the 
simple  stream  wliich,  instead  of 
.snp]>l\  ini^j;  snstenanee.  i-^  ealin;..j 
its  vitals.  The  ehaiiiiel  is  worn 
more  ih, 111  ."i.ooo  iittdeip,  with 
slnpeiidon^  banks  terraced  and 
\vronL;ht  into  >'  apo  in"-t  fan- 
tastic, and  at  ;  I. ices  diabolic, 
Ima^diie  a  ch.i-ni  that  at  tinii  - 
is  less  than  a  (iii,ivter  of  ,i  mile 
wide  and  more  than  a  mile  dei  p, 
the  l)ed  of  which  is  a  to^^iiii;, 
roarint;,  nuuily  impetuous  llood; 

windin.:.;  its  way  in  a  sinnoiis  curse  alomr  wills  th.it  are  painted  witii  all  the  iii;^inents  known  to  n  itiire  I  What  a,.  ;;;.,.osini;  spectacle; 
wh.it  a  scene  of  awesome  i.;r.ni'!rnr;  what  a  siibiime  \  i>ion  of  iiiiL;litiness !  Hut  the  j^eolo.^i.^t  sees  in  the  er.i.i^s  and  ]iiecipic<'s,  the  str.ita  .iiid 
bed  of  til, It  brawliii;^  >t-.ciiii,  the  li.indw  riliin,'  of  ii.iture,  thee,i~i!y  decipherable  physical  hi^lory  and  >;ioloyy  of  the  land,  'i'iic  antii|uarian 
and  et!inolf)),dst,  follo.vin.!.;  alter,  tr.iu-lite  the  relics  ol  rude  h,ibit,itious  found  alon;^  the  clifls,  and  the  skulls  fortiiii.:tciy  reeowrcd  Iroiii  the 
ruins,  into  a  story  of  the  ancient  pmple  who  in  the  lonj.;  ceiitnr-es  a;.^o  dared  to  make  their  h mies  in  tlic-e  .iliiiost  inaecessilih-  l.istiiesses, 
driven  to  such  rcfiij^e-  b\  the  ruthless  hand  ol  persecution. 


sKii  I  s  ( )i    1I11-;  (.1  II I   iiu  i:i  Li  I's 


i    % 


i 


fl 


I     r 


y. 


t 


80  AMI'l'lICAS  WOXDl'RI.AXUS. 

In  iii.inv  pl.ia-,  M.iior  Powell  Uniiid  ovcnirchin,-:  cliffs,  ummd  by  the  river  in  nukiii-  a  slKirp  beiid  iMtini;  awav  tlic  shale  and 
jjv].suni  cf  the  base.  t)eeasional  inlets  were  observed,  cnl  bv  creeks  that  have  been  dried  lip  for  a.ues;  and  following  u|)  one  of  these  deej. 
aroytas  a  little  wav,  he  came  to  a  nalnval  stair-wav  of  sni.dl  ami  re-nlar  terraces  that  led  lip  fnllv  '>'M  feet,  to  an  o.isis  of  ves;et.ition,  ont  of 
which  bnrst  a  .<=prins  that  lost  il>  waters  before  thev  had  rnn  a  hundred  feet  down  the  parehe.l  elitl.  Jnsl  below  this  point  a  beautifnl  rIcu 
w,is  found,  where  the  w.ill>  of  the  eafioii  appeared  to  almost  meet  above  Ine  deep  and  (piiel  river,  which,  tliuU);h  n.irrowed,  had  an 
unobst  ructed  channel.  The 
cliffs  were  of  a  marvelous  ' 
beaut'  ,  aiipallinj;  in  heij^lit.lnu 
as  \arii  i;aled  as  a  bed  ol  jiup-  . 
(lies,  with  tiieir  stratas  of  white,  ' 
pink,  saflron.  ,L;ray  and  n-d. 

Pass  ill;;   out   I'f   Cilen 
Canon,  the  part\'  e.mie  dinetly 
into  the  jaws  of  another  eli,i>m, 
where  the  ri\er  had  e.\ea\ated    j 
an   aiuphitheater  of   mammoth    j 
proportion-,  and  then   plnnL;ed 
into    .1    i;orj;e   where    both    the    j 
wails  and  liedof  the  stream  were    ^ 
of    m.irble    ,-<■    pure    thai    they 
shone  with  .in  iridescent   splen- 
dor,   and    the    imw    lazy    ri\er    j 
rellected  its  w.ills  until  lookinjf    | 
down   was    ;^.i    ini;    into   the    ' 
he.ivenlv   dejiths.      Just    ItN^w 
was    Cataract    Canon,    the    ell-    I 
trance  to  which   w.i--  indicated 
by  a   loftv    eliif   that,    fnpin    a 
distance,    shone   like   a   cry^t.d 
niouulain,  but  which.  <'i  cinder 
inspection,    was    discowred    to 
he  the  source  of  nianv  sprin.tj.s 
whose  wate 
likej 


rs  i.;linleil  in  the  snn   I 


ewels. 


In  nian\  jilaces  the  arii 


desolation  which  was  noticeable  in  the  upper  jiortion  and  on  the  platea 
of  ve}.:elalioii,  and  the  appearance  of  side  nort;is  '11  which  cieek.s  were 
these  occnrriii''-  where  the 


R()r\KV  '-M  )\V  I'l  o\v. 
nd  which  stretched  aw 


itill 


\-  on  both  sides,  was  broken  bv  patches 
itribntint;  to  the  river.      Storms  weie  not  infre<|nent,  too,  and 


m  walls  were  a  mile  hii^h  and  close  to.nelher,  iirodiiced  an  effect  that  w.is  almost  supeniatnral  in  its  ,iw 


fnliu 


I'"vcrv  obscuration  o 


f  tlr 


brou'dit  dense  shadows  in  the  eha^ 


m,  which  were  split  111  twain  bv 


I'choed  hliar|)lv  between  the  cliffs 


1)4   ll.ishes,  while  the  deep  llinnder 


iiudiicintr  a  ruariii";  sound  that  was  alniusl  deafe 


Such  rain-storms,  ho 


wever,  were  mv 


ariabh 


i 


o 

q 

o 
o 

'-U 

X 

I- 


< 


ItU' 


!:!■ 


i'lr 


-f"^ 


AMERICA'S  WONDHRLAXDS. 


contiiKiI   til  tlu'  iimiR- 


ili.iti- 


>l'  till 


caiuiii,  tlR-   tirntorx    Iviii";  two  or  tliri'i.-  iiiiks 


st  (H   uisl  idiitiiiiiiiijj;  ])arclR'<!,  with  hardly 


a  cloud  iilxui.'  it.      V.ww  iiiiiR-  ifUMik.ilik-  tli.iii  tln'  ^tupiiidoiis  walls  which  confiiR'  thi-  Colorado  Riwr,  arc  the 


iiiiiR'd  cave 


habitations 


(■hich   arc   to   be  seen   aIoii.i;   tlie    lolly  and   apparenth    ii 


ible    ledu 


ihicl 


1   a   vainslR'd   race   loni. 


ideiith 


retiiije   troni   their 


'riR-e 


are  no  ilonbt    nalnral    e\c 


nations,  but  in  many  instances  the  months  are   partially   \va 


iijjht 
lied 


id  <.tl 


lerwise    tortitiec 


The 


were   reached    b 


bv  th 


e  occnpan 


Is  themse: 


very   narrow,   ]irecipitons    and    de\ 


Mills 


cxtrcmcK'  dillicnlt  to  attai 


\e.-.,   ini-MiiUd   .Ml    inipre<.;n 


piirclui 


at 


:reat  cost,  tor  we  woiu 


ler  h. 


ible    lionl    to    iiu.iiler- 
iih 


lint   the  secniit\    which  such  ca\crnons   retreats  afforded 


low  the   mil. il'.t. lilts   iii,iiiaiH-d   ti 


St,  situated  as  tli 


e\  were   in   a  ( 


esidate  coniitr\-,  wliere 


there  w.is   .ureal    scirciu    of   b.ilh   \e<^etal)le   and    anini.d    lik 

the  Wrinilion   Cliils,  and  the  Temples 

and    Towers    of    the    \'ir.i;iii,    the    one 

f.idiiii;  into  the  other.     Wrniilioii  Clifls 

are  .i  .yie.it  w.dl  of  icin.irk.iMc   ludi^hl 

and    len:.;tli   ^f    persi>ti!it    proportions. 


IpS    till 


St  strikiiiylv  beaiitilii!  .sections  of  tile  Cirand  C: 


ornate  with  n.itur.d  sciilpiniii 
ill 


and    rich    with    p.irti-ci.iloniii;,    .is    to 
in-lil\    the   must   e\lv.i\ai;anl    l.mi;il,i!;e 


in    dociiliiiiL;'    tlicm. 


■,  ,1  c  a 


'I    tin 


d    t 


err.ices    li.i^ 


iwii   st\  le 


.irchilecture,  and  yet  tlie\  contrast  with 
one  aiiotlier  in  the  iiio>t  harmoniously 
.irli>tic  manner.  Tlu  b.  1  e  ph  .i  n  1  i  lie 
ruins   on    the    Nile,    the    Iciiip'es    nf 


C.R 


the    p.l;^od, 


i>  I'f  Cllin.l,  .uiii    tile 


•athedrals  of  .Soutlierii  bai 


rope,  present 


no  more  v.iriety  ot  pleasini:;  strnclnres 
thin  tlio-i'  iiiciMiiileiei'  in  ilociiidini; 
the  slair-wa\   Inmi  the  liii;li  plate. in-'  to 


the  deeli  Canon  <if   the   Colon 


1'' 


iKiin    terr.ice   to    teri.n  i . 


till 


'ceiie  i>  cou^l.iiu!'-  ehaiv^in,^;:   iml   ■  nl\ 


the  li( 


ir.iinur   ma- 


RI'lliM.    \i;il  .   SHO-^IK  i\|:   I  \1.|  S. 


which  domin.ite  the  landscape,  but   in 

every  detail   ami  acce^-ory  as  well:   in 

the  tone  of  the  c  >lor-m.is-es,  ill  the  \c-ei,;lion,  and   in  the  spiril  and  ,-iibieiti\e  inllm  mi ,  df  iju- seeiierv .     The  prolilr  of  the  Wrinilion 

Cliffs  i^  \er\  coiiipU  \,  lliou;.^li  .  ..nlonmii-  1..  a  delinite  t\  pi  .ind  cniiposid  li  siniple  i  li  im  ills.      W'hiK-  van  inj.;  inueli  in  dilleieiit  localities 


it  iie\er  lo-es  Us  ivmeal   character. 


slopes  covereil  Willi    lieaps 


;iifs 


consist  ol  .i;i  as 


s(  Ills  of  \ertic.il    ledt 


:is,  lisint;  slur\  above  stor\',  w 


L'ks.  tlirouj,'li  which   project  their  fretted  ed^es.       T 


lilh  iiil 


er\ell|  I 


le   eomiiosite   effect   j,;i\ell    by   llle    linilllplr 


III 


.sloping;  water-tables  rising'  tier  ab..i\e  tier,  i-  hi,!.;lily  arehilectnr.il,  and  shows  in  slrikin;.;  eonll,is|  v  illi  tin  lou^li  and  era}.;^^\  aspect  ol  ili 


cliffs  of  other  re;.4ions.      This  effei't   is  nmeh   increased   In  the  aberrant   ni.inner  in  wliieii   the  wall   aiK.inces   in 
alci.'Ves.  and  b\  llie  wiii<;s  and  gables  »liat  jut  out   fmni   e\er\    lateral    l.ni  .      le    mam   plires  side  canons   li.i 


|iroiiR)iitones  or  recedes  iii 
cut  the  terrace  platforms 


.1* 


f'f 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS.  .S3 

lU't'pK  ,  ami  iipi'ii  ill  iiiaiLiiiilloi'iU   j;,iU-\vays  upon  tlii'  hrnail  disc:!   plain  in  fnau,      Wi'  !■  .ik  iulu  llu-li.  ficmi  afar,  \V(inil(.riiii,'ly  and  (|lK--tiiMi- 
iiij;l\ ,  willi  our  fancy  pk-asi'd  to  follow  llicir  windiiij^s  uiilil  tluir  >uddvn  Inius  c.u'\  tliiiii  into  distaiil,  un-^iiii  di-ptlis.      In  otlu-r  i)lai'is 

illi   tlif  aspiriiij^  forms  of  a  pure  Ciotliii 


iliL-  iliffs  MTjji'  into  lowiriii},' bnttcs,   riariii'j   lluir  unassai!  iliU-  sumiiiils  iiilo  the  c 


in(l« 


l\|if,  and  flinj^inj;  l)ack  in  ivd  and  pinjilc  llu-  inknsc  snnlii^lu  ihat  in  ponud  \(pou  Umi\,  Coiild  tli'  iinaj^iiiatiou  lihracli  lliosc  (.-olors,  it 
miylit  idiiiparc  tlii'iii  with  vast  iciluii^s,  sint  from  tlic'  fa<'i'  of  a  j^lacivr  am(  llivUin;;  iiujistictlU  onl  to  sia. 

('■rand,  nloiioUs,  subliiiK',  arc  llif  pictorial  clills  of  vi-nwilion  liiu  ;  \i  t  a  mo  v  mamiilu'cnl  spectacle  is  proi  ■■-ted  li\^  an  unfoldin.ij  of 
llic  panorama  that  stretches  sonthward,  revealiit^  as  it  does  Uie  hv.^vWtK  croAi\»\\  ,vi\d  v^spUnili  iitiv  painted  teiinuli  s  and  towers  n(  the 
X'iruin.  Here  the  slopes  \\\i.  --erpentine  Itdjjes,  and  tile  hos:«\'»i  v*(  (WMJeeUttv)  l(VcV>  (UU'Vl.inUil  Willi  scanty  soil,  clispl,*-*  ,ill  the  eoNirs  of  the 
r.iinhow,  and  in  the  t\is\,W\ee  ma\  he  likenc(l  to  the  piinU'VN  JmIIHUv  IM10  >h»lilev  tiltl^*  arc  of  inaroun,  ])iiiTpk-,  chocdl  itt',  niai^eiila  aad 
Kivellder,  with  hload  hands  of  wh'le  l.lid  in  lloll/oUtal  helts.  Thv  c.\vV>\»  proper  is  7,IMll)  feet  dn  p  here,  Imf  W-s  than  two  miles  hevdiul  it 
slailils  the  ci  ntral  mil  comma  ml  ill),;  vihjecl  of  this  snMitnc  painiinv;,  the  vjlorions  western  temple  lii.it  looms  np  il.oiwi  Ut-x  .iho\e  the  r,i|iiil  ri\  er. 
This,  howi'VcVv  W  Olilv  the  (orcKidunil  t»t  a  UVVVvlihss  ji.tWor.viHvv  Voi  rii^ht  opposite  are  a  miyluv  thfoiij,'  of  .sinacture*  wroiiijht  in  the  same 
e.saUeil  sv\\lv»  sejiaraled  hy  two  jiv\\\yi\>.\\  ftitks  of  the  V\\*i<''i  V.nown  .is  the  I'aninnweap  .ind  the  Mnknntnweap,  '/r  I<htlc  Zion  %  jlley.  At 
one  \n\\\\\  \\\c  two  .side  cations  sWitly;  around  aild  l\u\t>  a  jnuction,  w  In  re  the  w.\ll>»  hieak  into  jjiant  ])e(limeiits  cover*d  with  iJm-  most  remark- 
alOe  and  '|)ictnresipie  carvinjijs.  The  sumptuous,  liewildciiny;  and  ma/v  eltccls  are  Uildly  disceriiilile;  hnl  detail  is  lost  wh<'li  attempt  is 
made  to  analy/e  it.  The  fl.\\\k  of  the  w.ill  rceediu!,'  up  the  Mnknntnweap  is  similarly  sculptiircil  and  decorated  for  two  mile.-:  .«tt'l  then 
rlianjjes  into  new  kaleidoscopic  forms  still  more  wonderful  and  iinpres>i\e.  A  tow  of  towers  half  a  mile  hii;li  is  senlptllft'd  out  of  the 
p.ilis.ide,  and  sta.ids  in  relief  hefore  its  f.icc.  Tin  re  is  ,111  cloinaiue  in  tluir  forms  which  stirs  the  ima.yin.ition  with  a  siuj'iilar  power,  ami 
kindhs  in  e\en  tlie  dullest  mind  a  nlowiuK  response.  Just  behind  them,  and  lisinii,'  .1  thousand  feet  ln;,dier,  is  the  ea>terii  temple,  rrowned 
with  a  c\liiidiic  dome  of  white  sandstone.  Directly  in  front  is  a  complex  }.;ronp  of  white  towers,  spriiii;in,s,'^  from  a  central  pile  .md 
inoiintiu^^  to  the  clouds.  The  hij^hest  pe.ik  in  this  cnmulns  mass  i>  almost  pure  w  liite,  with  Urilliaut  streaks  of  rarininc  descendiujj  its 
verti.  ,il  walls,  while  the  tnincati^d  sniuniit  is  a  deep  red. 

Xothinij  can  exceed  the  wondrous  lieanl\  of  Little  /.ion  \'alle\ ,  which  separates  the  two  temples  and  their  respective  jjronps  of 
towers.  In  its  proportions  it  is  prohabh'  eipuil  to  Vosemile,  'ml  it  \ir\  f.ir  exceeds  that  luitui.d  wonder  in  the  nobility  and  beautv  of 
-.cnlpturiii^j.  We  are  not  surprised  that  a  .Mormon  zealot  ji.ive  to  this  cafioii  the  name  of  Little  Ziou,  since  the  scenery  is  so  iiuposiuy;  as  to 
iimuediateh-  and  |)owerfnlly  snj,'sj;est  those   "houses  not  built  with  h.iiids." 

I'.ir  to  the  westward  are  to  be  seen  ihe  lost  palisade,  liftin;.,'  its  iiii])osiii.^  front  behind  ,111  army  of  towers  and  domes  to  ,111  altitude  of 
more  than  ;i,lHl(l  ft'i-t.      lieyoud  it  the  \  iew  chans^'cs  (|uickl\  ,  for  it  passes  at  once  into  tl  .  ( '.reat  Masin,  which  to  this  rei;ion  is  another  world. 


The  passas^e  of  the  <iraiid  Canon  of  the  Colorado,  that  most  fearful,  colossal  and  e\ 


tr.iorilinare  chasm  111  a 


11  tl 


surf 


ace,  was 


com])lcted  on  .Anj^nst  i'.^h   the  ])erils  which  beset  the  ex|)lorers  beinjj  constant  and  the  hardest  work  uurcmittin)^^     X^u'  w.is  it  accomplished 


ithoiit  jjreat  sacrifice.     Tlie  dau<;ers  so  iucrea.sed  that  three  of  tin 


deserted,  whose    fate,  however. 


as  most  tra<ric,  for  the 


were 


shurtlv  afterwavd.s  murdered  bv  Ii 


Starvation  threatened  the  parte,  for  reiicated  capsi/.ini;  of  the  boats  resulted  in  the  loss  of  nearh 


.ill  their 


P' 


OVISIOUS,    w 


bile  exposure  brou<;ht  (Ui  illness,  so  that  tlu^  men  were  in  .1  desperate   situation  when   they  finally  emerj^ed   from   the 


s  of  the  canun  and  found  succor  among  .some  hospit.ible 


Indians 


'M, 


i< 


I' 


IIIC 


'HA  >»IHHi->PW" 


G 


G 


CIIAI'TI'.R  I\'. 

MARVHLS  OF  Till:  GRHAT  DKSERT. 

KANI)   RI\'1U<    \'.\I.I,I-'.N'   i'    fiillMwcil   li\   tlio   lailin.iil  lidiii  a  iinint  .iImhU  fiirt\-  mills  imitli  nf   I.c.iil\ilk'  lnr  ,i  ilUtailco  of  lu-.ulv  t 


IiuikIumI  iiiilis,  anil  until  Stale  \A\\^•  is  rfai'lird,  wIkii  iIk'  inail  cuts  across  tlu' 


plains 


lali,  wlm-li  ail'  riiuwil 


wo 


litlk'  ili\(.Tsitv 


if  l.iniisi'a|ii'  nnlii  Mminl   .Who,  of  ilic  Wasalrli  raiij^f,  liriaks  iiit( 


TliL-  sccniry  alniij;  Cirand  ki\tr  is,  Ikiwimt,  ixlivnul 


luanliful,  hi^iu),'  \iT\'  nij^^jid  and  at  liniis  niuiiiit:! 


'rill'  road  li-ads  lliniimh  scviral  canons  that  li.uc 


hii'h  vertical  wal 


ironnd   Icdj^is,  ovtr  hridi^cs, 


taki 


an  occasio 


nal   |>Innj;c   int<i  the  nH(lni'_'lit  of  tmniils   bored   thron.i;h   solid   j^ranite. 


inilscape  \v 


hid 


1  meets   the    tla\eler 


\  ision  w  Ml  n    lie   u  . 


lah    is  vel\  (liltereiit   fmm  that  which  characteri/es  Colorado,   the 


difference  heinj;  apparent  almost  wlicn  the  border  is  readied.     ..Iter  pa.ssinjj  llie  plateiui  the 


I, 


where  llie  rc'ion 


becomes  broken,  and  near-b\  are 
lo|t\'  ledi^es,  o\er  one  of  which 
rushes  .1  pellucid  stre.nn  thai  is 
formed   b\  nieltinir  snows  from 


the  adjacent  inonntains.     I'ru 


\(i 


I'.dls    is 


■autifu 


sheet    o 


wall  1,  dashiuy;  down  a  heii;ht  of 
forty  leet  and  then  spreadini^- 
away  until  lost  in  I'roMi  Lake, 
'i'he  Wasatch  ran!.;e  is  now 
pl.iiuly  \isible,  coastinj;  tlu'  east- 
ern shore  of  Creat  .S.ili  I,  ike, 
:  d  wiudinjj;  around  to  the 
southwest  until  they  enclose  a 
valley  that  b\'  .Mormon  industrx- 
has  been  converted  into  a  \eri- 
tahle  iiaradise,  ramified  .is  it  is 
by  canals  that  render  it  prolific 
with  nearly  cver\tliin^j  that  fer- 
tile soil  can  proilucc. 


The    Wasatch    n 
.f  ll 


TWIN  1  \KFs,  cnrKiNwnoi)  canon,  iitah. 


;  the  diviclinjj  ridRc  lictwecn  the  arid  interior  1 


if  Nevada  and  tlie  liij;!!  and  relatively  well-watered  ]ilateau  couiitr\  that 


Hire    forms 


one  of  the  most  import.iiit  topo- 
jj;raphic.il  features  of  the  Cor- 
dilleran  system;  in  fact,  it  marks 
the  central  line  of  elevation  of 
this  j;rc  It  mountain  re)j;iou,  and 
dr.iins  into  the 


•■ulf  of  California.     .Ml  the  mountain   formations  here  are  on  .i  scale  of  universal  maj,Miitude,  while  in  their  structure  are  to  be  seen  the 
«5 


|ll| 
il 


y 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


i.l 


■^I2£  Hi 

■^  ISii    12.2 

^  lift 
111 

u 
u 


LS    12.0 


l!!IIL25  i  1.4 


I 

I 


1.6 


V 


V] 


■A'^V 


Hrotographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTEt.N.Y.  14580 

(716)S72-4S03 


g^V^ 


\ 


:\ 


^ 


'>^^\^ 

w 


'^ 


§^ 


^ 


f 


I        1 


S6 


AMlvRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


iffi'cts  iif  il\  ii.iini'.-  ioivi>,  wliiih  h^\^■  folikd  ami  twisted  ihousaiuls  of  feet  of  solid  rock  as  if  they  were  as  plial)k"  as  so  many  sheets  of  paper. 
To  llu-  wolu.iiil  till-  r.mul'  priMiits  .1  hold,  alini])l  escar])iuent,  risiiijj  suddenly  out  i>f  the  ])lains  of  the  I'tah  hasiii,  and  attains  its  greatest 
iliwitii'U  uitliin  .1  ooupli'  nl  uiilis  of  lis  westirn  base.  'Pi>  the  eastw.ml  it  slopes  off  \ery  gradually,  forniinj;  a  succession  of  broad  ridjjes 
,111(1  iiiniiiit.iiii  v.ilkvs  whose  waters  ilt.iiii  into  the  ("ircat  Salt  Lake  throu),'h  canons  and  U'TRCs  cut  throiis^h  its  main  western  ridge. 
'I'lk'  .lUiiiuk  is  linr.i  In.oiui  t,,  lii.oiio  kii  aliove  sia  level,  so  that  snow  is  continuous  on  the  summits,  while  a  condensation 
of  tlk-  ia>tuaid  iii"\iii;^  .itiuospheric  cuneiits,  produced  by  the  chill  on  the  mountain  ])eaks,  furnishes  a  constant  su])i)ly  of  water  to 
the  iii>'iiin  iiii  sinaiiis,  and  trom  which  the  \,ilk\s  derive  their  exceptional  fertility.  .\  view  of  the  range,  as  okservcd  from  one  of  the 
islmds  in  Salt  l.ake,  jiroeiUs  a  inouiU.iin  w.dl  uinre  th.in 
loo  iiiiks  in  kiiyth.  of  iklicalely  varied  outline,  the 
upper  purtioii  \vra)ipecl  in  a  laantk'  of  snow,  but  dotted 
with  ]M!rlu'^  of  pine  re\e.iliiii,'  all  the  intricacies  of  its 
inek\  >in'.ilnu\  lud  cut  thrniii;li  at  slmrt  intervals  by 
<leep  canon  i;a>'ie>  of  rare  i;randeur  .lud  beauty.  .\ 
strikin;^  kaline  is  |Me-.eiUiii  ill  the  old  lake  ti'rraces 
whiih  niaik  llie  luniu  r  bea'-li-liiie  of  aiuieiu  Lake  l!niille- 
\ilk.  of  which  tile  uliperillo~t  i-  '.'|0  leet  atiove  the  le\el 
of  the  ine-elit  like,  and  c.iii  l>e  Ir.ued  with  few  iiitemip- 

tioiK    lioin    one  eii'l    of    iIk-    rail.i;e    to  the  ulller.      I„ike 

|iiiiiiie\  i!!e  was  tn-iiuiK    tlu'  L;real   inland   sn  ci   which 

(ileal  Sail  l.ake  i-  imw  ,1  ]Mrl.      Il   eowred   luarlv  oiu- 

sixlli  ot  what  is  unw  llali  Uiriu>r\  ,  .lud  there  isi  videiiee 

thai  il  was  eoinieeiKl  with  the  se.i  li\  an  arm  extending 

to  tile  (i'all  of  Caiil.'niia.     'I'lie  iiidie.i\al  of  mountains 

tliroii;.;li   \iik.Miic  aeti.'ii   tnhu'ed   its  IhiI  .unl  graduallv 

coiiliiu^l  il^  \\ater~  to  tin-  I.iwcr  ba^in  "i  wli.il  aflerw.irds 

came  to  be  known,  becar.-e  o!   il>  s.iliiK'  w.iurs,  as  the 

dreat  Salt  L.ike. 

.\>  '-.irly  a-  li'S'.i  ir.i  nti^Mi  was  made  I'i  thi>  rein.irk- 

able  lake,  which  u .1^  -. laii  w  n.a   indeliiiiteK    loiMied  anil 

described    by   !'..i'.i.a  l.i  Iln",',ii,    "  lo'-d-'it  uU  IKilIt   of   the 

l-'reiich   ci'l'iin    at    l'l,ieenli,i,   in   New   l-'i.undland  "  ■  .   ,1 

work  wnicli  w,i-  lir^l  pnlili-.ii<'.I   in  'lie  luij^lish  l,iii.i;ii,i;.;e 

in  ITil.'i.      Iiut  tliouuh  kiV'Wii   il  ~ueli  ,111  earlv  d,i\ ,  it  w,is 

n,.t   until    IMMliai   a   avves  M    the  like   w,is  nude  bx  ^^''^'^   ''™-*^-  '•"'•■■\''  ^■^'•■''  '-'^"^E- 

Howard   Slansbn.y,  eapt  lin  ..;   !..pn^r,iphic,d  en.i^Mneers,    f.  S,  .\.,   thoi;i,'i,  1 '.eiieral  John   C.  I'reiuont  circumnavigated   il   in    If^tJ,  giving 

n.iines  to  its  several  islamis  and  [.niiniiKiit  iioiius.    The  settlement  of  .Mormons  in  the  .Salt  Lake  Valley,  near  the  .shores  of       e  lake,  served 

to  bring  the  Dead  Se,i  of  Aiiv.;:.  ,  iiiid  pruiuineiice,  and   to  this  fact  was  largely  due  the  action  of  the  ( '■oxernnient  in  ordering  a  survey  of 

the  great  basin  to  l)e  in.ide.     T'.u  'jke  wisfcniid   to  be   ne,irly  eighty  miles  long  by  fifty  broad,  and  to  contain  such  a  tpiantity  of  salt, 

sulphates  ot  silver,  clil.n.k-   a  a.  1  .iie-iain.  ])otash  and  alniu,  that  its  solid  contents  were  about  four  times  greater  than  that  of  ocean  water, 

while  its  specific  gravity  alui'. -I   i  jialied   that  of  the   Dead  .Sea.     Having  no  outlet   the  lake  has  a   fluctuating  level,  dependent  ujwn  the 


I  ill 


r 


T  m  \\: 


i!il 


I'  I 


il, 

"«  ' 

li 

■If   . 

•  1  1 

•Ill  i 

ami;nmcas  \\o\1)KRI,a\1)S. 


.miiiniU  ot  iiilliiwiiiv;  w.iUr  .md  Mil.ir  i.\Min>r:iti')ii,  wliiili  >. .iru>  i-.uli  scim'II,  Imt  tlioui;li  tlu'iiretically  tlu'  lake  oukIiI  to  In-  ditnitiisiiiii};,  tlie 
l.ut  uMi.iiiis  tli.il  il  is  luIrt  iiu'R.isiiiL;,  slmwiiij,'  iii.ivkm  (.ncniacliimiit  mi  the  ta^tiiii  slioivs,  while  (Ml  the  wist  tluTc  is  an  a|i|)arciit 
n.i-essioii  ot  its  waters,  a  Jieetiliarity  not  easily  e\|ilaiiKil. 

There  are  a  naniber  of  i>laiiils  in  Salt  Lake,  tlie  two  iar^jest  heiii^j  Antelope  and  Stanshiiry,  whieli  ris-j  ;>l)ni|)lly  to  a  !ieij;ht  of 
;'i,0(l()  feet,  tenniii.uiiit;  in  rocky  ridi^is  that  raiii.;e  iinrth  and  Mintli,  and  from  whieli  a  iiiar\elonsly  heaiitifnl  view  is  had  of  the 
snrrouiulinR  scenerv,  varied  l)y  towerini;  peaks,  Iionndles-;  jil.iln.,  fields  of  ;,^rai:i.  irris^atiny;  ditehes,  jirosjierons  farm  houses,  and  away  to 
the  southeast  a  deli!;htftil  vision  of  Salt  Lake  Cit\ .  (Ulier  isl.inds  in  the  lake  are  those  known  as  Cilinnisoti,  Fremont,  Carrin^jton, 
IVOphiii,  lilaek  Koek,  M\id, 
Iv^^s,',  Hat,  and  several  o'.hers 
that  are  so  iiisij^iiiricaiit  as  to 
apjiear  to  be  unwinlhy  i>f  r.iiy 
name.  The  total  area  covered 
hy  tlie  lake  is  aliont  l',:>m> 
sqnate  miles,  or  nearly  li'l' 
square  miles  more  than  the  State 
ot  Delaware,  and  its  elevation 
above  the  sea  is  I, mill  iVet. 

r.ut  if  C.reat  Salt  Lake  is 
one  of  the  prime  curiosities  of 
America,  its  muiii<.ipal  name- 
sake may  well  claim  the  dis- 
tinction of  beiil;.;  one  ol  the 
artificial  wonders  of  our  kind. 
S.ilt  Lake  City  is  the  sublime 
result  of  Mormon  persecution, 
haviiii;  been  founded  by  that 
alien  sect  in  l><t7.  The  history 
of  their  expuKion  from  Xauvoo, 
Illinois,  and  (i.ill.itin,  Mi>-oii'-i, 
is  familiar  to  e\ery  school-boy, 
y  t  there  will  ever  liiij,'er  about, 
tbe  story  of  their  tli:.,'lit,  across 
'he  winter-swept  plain-  of  Iowa 

.'iiid  the  ic\-  pr.iiries  of  Xel)rask'.i,  to  the  desert  kinds  of  fiah,a 
told  by  Lou;.,'feilow  in  /i:  ,nix<''"'i'. 

In  this  valley  of  desolation,  as  it  then  appeared,  Hriijham  Voun,i,',  the  .Moses  of  his  |)eoplc,  founded  a  citv  and  re-established  a 
hierarchy  which  has  persisted  and  jnospered  to  a  deL,'ree  that  imites  the  world's  ama/enunt.  Hv  industry  as  remarkable  as  it  was  well 
directed,  the  desert  was  converted  into  an  oasis,  and  the  bare  earth,  with  its  jioverty  of  sand  and  sa^'e-brnsli,  vv.is  made  to  cover  its  naked- 
ness with  the  j;reen  v  tures  of  ahno>t  unex.iinpled  fecundity. 

The  town  thus  ■.stablished  under  harsh  conditions  j,'rew  into  the  stature  of  a  city,  who.se  very  isolation  seemed  to  contribute  to  its 


THI     ITMPI  i:.   SALT   I   \Ki;   CITY, 
our  ol  r.iiii.iiice,  second  in  inteiest  to  that  of  the  e.vile  of  the  .\cadians,  as 


-i'l' 


m 


nil 


'A 


T 


9C1 


AMHRICA'S  \V(^XDKRLA\nS. 


pro-ipcritv.  I-'oi  tile  first  score  of  yc;irs  tlio  phKc  was  in  luarly  ;ill  respects  one  of  rcfiijjc,  where  tlic  cliurch  was  dotniiiaiit  and  where 
priesicrafl  and  pohj^aniy  were  the  two  institutions  njion  which  the  life  of  the  sect  depended.  We  are  not  snrprised,  therefore,  to  find  tliat 
tlie  tirst  j;reat  bnildinjj  crecl.e<l  ill  Salt  Lake  City  was  a  tahernaele,  with  a  seatinj;  capacity  for  li'.dOO  persons,  the  hirjjest  hall  withont  piUar 
supports  in  tiie  worKl,  and  that  next  to  tliis  a  lithinj;  house  was  built,  for  it  w.is  a  jMineiple  with  the  Mornio'is  that  the  church  should  he 
supported  l)y  levies  upon  the  conununicauts  of  one-tenth  <if  their  annual  ]irofits,  whether  such  earnings  came  'roni  the  soil,  incrchaiidisc  or 
the  trades.  Then  followed  the  buiklini;  of  an  endowment  house,  where  the  rites  of  the  church  were  celebra'.ed;  and  besides  a  residence  for 
the  president  or  chief  priest,  tliere  w.is  erected  a  structure  known  as  the  Hee-ilive,  for  the  accommodation  of  Uri^jham  Voun);"s  harem,  also 
an  assembly  hall,  and  la--tlv  a  Cirand  Tempi.',  costiui;  ue.uly  #;!,(MlO,(l(l(),  which,  after  twcnt\  >e.irs,  is  just  now  anpruacliinjj  culllplctioil. 
The  Cil\-  of  S.ilt  Lake,  with 


. '  't:- 

if^X'                ■   ^^^KitfiA  *             atB^^«fi'\'^ 

•    >'-'^ 

-^f  t    i  -  i^-^fr^''" 

-  - 

a  population  of  H.ndo,  is  about 
seven  miles  from  the  southeast- 
ern shore  of  the  l.ike,  is  beaiUi- 
fullv  l.iid  out  with  streets  \.\2 
feel  wide,  the  gutters  of  which 
are  kept  clean  by  the  constant 
runuinjj;  of  pure  water  throu,L;h 
them,  brou.yht  (lo\vn  from  the 
Wasatch  ranjje  and  ctuulucied 
thence  throui,-h  a  myriad  of 
dilchi-s  to  irrij.;.Uc  the  soi'. 

,Salt  Lake  City  is  one  of  the 
chief  milit'iry  jiosts  of  the 
United  States,  and  l-'ort  Doujj;- 
las,  situated  .about  five  miles 
from  the  cit\-,  on  a  >;ently  slop- 
inj;  hillside  at  the  termination 
of  Red  Hutte  Canon,  is  a  de- 
lij^htful  jilace  and  commands  an 
unolistructed  view  of  the  entire 
valley.  .'■,  mile  toward  tlie 
south  is  bani.Ljraut  Canon,  from 
which  point  it  is  said  the  .Mor- 
mcju  pioneers  Inst  caught  sijj^ht 

of  the  vcrdtireless  plain  which  they  were  destined  to  convert  into  a  very  Kden  of  ])roductiveness.  One  of  the  greatest  attractions  in  the 
neifjhborhood  of  the  cit\  (about  eit;hteen  miles  distant)  is  a  noted  bathing  resort  called  Ciarfield  Heach  which,  durinj;  the  simnnei  sea.son, 
is  visited  by  thous.inds  of  persons  who  there  indulge  the  incomparable  luxury  of  a  i)ath  in  the  marvelous  Dead  Sea  of  America.  The 
water  is  so  buoyant  that  those  who  have  not  -iiastered  the  art  of  swinnning  find  equal  s])OTt  with  those  who  are  most  exper'  'or  they  can 
lie  on  the  delicious  waves  and  be  rocked  like  a  child  in  its  cradle,  without  putting  forth  any  effort  whatever.  Just  hack  of  (larfield's  Heach 
is  a  f^reat  cavern  in  the  Oquirrah  M(.)untain  side  known  as  tlie  Giant's  Cave,  the  entrance  to  which  is  some  JICO  feet  above  the  lake  level, 
though  it  is  plainly  evident  that  in  former  years  the  opening  was  submerged.     When  the  cave  was  discovered,  in   IHCU,  it  was  found  to 


REE-HIVH   HOIJSK,    SALT   I.AKti   CITY. 


92  AMKRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 

contain  several  complete  liuinan  skeletons,  recklessly  disposed,  as  tliouRli  tliey  were  the  victims  of  slaughter  or  starvation.  It  was  a  cnstom 
anioii!,'  tlic  I'tcs  to  place  tlicir  dead  in  caves  and  in  hollows  amon^;  the  rocks,  Imt  the  irrcunlarity  of  the  positions  of  the  skeletons  fonnd  in 
C.iani^s  Cue  lends  ])luisil)ility  to  the  belief  that  the  remains  are  lho.se  of  a  hand  of  Indians  who,  having;  taken  refuse  there,  were  extermi- 
nated hy  their  more  powerful  enemies. 

.\l)(>ut  forty  miles  north  of  Salt  Lake  City,  and  on  the  main  line  of  the  Union  I'acitic  Railroad,  are  two  remarkahle  chasms  known 
as  I'A-ho  and  Welier  Canons  whici:  are  not  only  sid)limely  Krand  hy  reason  of  their  lofty  and  oftiii  vertical  walls,  but  are  also  m.irvelonsly 
curious  on  .icconnt  of  the  weiid  formations  which  distinsnish  them.  The  first  one  reached  on  our  trip  from  Salt  Lake  was  Weber  Canon, 
which  invites  atieulion  and 
admiration  not  so  much  by 
beetliu;,;  dills  as  bv  its  fjreat 
v.nictv'  o;  scent  ry  and  the 
kalcidn>copic  ch.iunes  which 
appear  at  every  hundred  y.irds 
of  advance  into  it.  The  canon 
is  not  aKva\  s  n.irrow,  nor  an- 
the  walls  in\ari.ibly  hi.i;li.  Ini 
there  is  ,i  succession  (4  all 
kinds  of  nionntain  scener\, 
includiuj; stretches  of  beautiful 
meadow  land  and  fertile  fields 
wrapped  about  the  feet  of  j;iant 
peaks;  colossal  j^atc-w.iys  lead- 
ing into  dark  tlelile-i;  miylily 
summits  hreakinj,'  way  throu,i,'li 
clondland;  sloi)es  covered  with 
pine  and  a.^peii;  and  ric!i;es 
that  ajipear  to  have  been  f.ish- 
ioned  l>v  ij;ods  of  war  into  low- 
ers, bastions  and  crenelated 
battlements.  Weber  River  has 
forjjed  its  wav  throutjh  this 
chasm,  and  aloni,;  its  sinuous 
and  rockv  bed  the  r.iilroad 
runs,  sometimes  cuttinjj  under 

an  overhani^ing;  ledge,  again  almost  scraping  the  sides  of  the  walls  that  swing  so  near  together,  then  leaping  out  of  night-infested  chasms 
into  broadening  valleys  that  are  green  and  rus.set  with  prolific  fruitage.  While  admiring  the  jieacelul  landscajie  and  coiiteniplating  the 
happy  euvironmeuts  that  render  tiie  valley  a  place  of  delightful  habitation,  our  dreamy  reflections  arc  suddenly  disturbed  by  a  siglit  of  what 
seems  to  have  been  most  appropriately  named  The  Devil's  Slide,  a  fcnnation  whose  singularity  entitles  it  to  consideration  as  one  of  nature's 
marvels.  The  hill  u])on  the  side  of  which  thi.s  nni(pie  wonder  occu.'s  is  about  800  feet  high,  composed  of  a  dark  red  .sand.stonc,  whose  face 
has  been  .scarred  by  some  internal  disturbance  that  has  caused  to  be  cast  n])  from  the  base  two  gray  ])arallel  walls  of  white  .sand.stonc,  which 


BRKiHAM   YOUNG'S  CKAV!-:,  SALT  LAKE  CITY. 


i  il 


i 


IDli 

I 

iiiir  ^i 

'I'llii 


I'^i  i: 


^^ 


\ 


94 


AMERICA'S  \VU\1»i:RUANDS. 


rise  to  a  varyini;  hi-iylit  of  twiMitv  to  forty  fiTt  .\\w\x  ilu-  j^iiuTal  snr- 
facf  of  the  liill,  and  a'c  imt  iiiou'  lliail  t\Mnty  fiit  apart.  This 
niiiarkaUK'  .•■iiiK-  lnj^iiis  at  the  siiiniuil  and  i-oiitiiini's  to  tin.'  iia>i\ 
wluTO  it  is  rt-'llicti'd  in  tlu'  fliar  watirs  of  Wilier  Ki\(.i,  oppoNiti'  I.o^t 
Creek,  j)ro(hK'ini4  a  \i^ion  tlial  is  ueiidh  j;rotesi|\ie  and  s\diliinely 
eiirions. 

"  Ivelni  Canon,"  >a\s  an  l!n,L;li>h  tiavekr,  "  is  a  snperl)  delile. 
It  moves  aloMn  like  some  maii'-tic-  poem  in  a  series  of  ineoniparalik- 
stan/as.  There  is  notliin.i;  like  it  in  tile  llimala>a>  that  I  know  ol, 
nor  in  the  Snliinan  raii;^e.  In  the  Ilolaii  Pass,  on  the  Afylian  frontier, 
there  are  intervals  of  i(iual  snhliniit\-;  am'  e\eii  as  a  whole  it  niav 
compare  witii  il.  liiu  taken  for  all  in  all— its  leiiHlh  (  >onie  thirty 
niiles),  its  aslniiisliini;  (li\er>it\  i>f  eontonr,  its  lieanty  ,is  well  as  its 
jfrandeiir — I  ennless  that  I'.elio  Canon  is  one  of  the  niasterpieees  of 
Nature." 

( I'le 'if  the  lii'-t  iilijic-ts  whieh  elainis  partienl.ir  attention  ne.ir 
the  einraiiee  to  the  e.n'ion  from  the  we-t  is  I'lilpit  Rock,  whii  li  is  mar 
the  villaj^e  of  haho.  This  ]irnii(tiiin  reeiiws  its  name  from  its  mi^'- 
)j;esli\e  appear.inee  as  well  ,is  from  the  ]iopnlar  tradition  lh.it  IlriL;h.ini 
Yoniij,' <ieenpied  it  to  preaeh  his  nrst  sermon  in  I'tah.  The  rocks  and 
])recipiees  whieh  line  the  w.iy  are  variegated  with  sniidned  tints, 
heijjhtciied  li\  the  pronounced  eo!inin>,'  of  the  mountain  vej^i'tation  that 
eo\trs  the  >lopi,>  ,ind  sjiicads  out  in  occasiuii.d  level  facts  at  the  base. 
Remarkalile  and  often  faiit.i^tie  formaliniis  diversify  the  eafinn,  which 
for  tiieir  fancied  resemlil.mce  to  artificial  thin),'S  h.ive  received  sncli 
appellations  as  Ste.imluiat  Rock,  ("lihraltar,  Monnnunt  Rock,  etc.  Onr 
further  advance  lirin;.,'s  into  view  towering'  cliffN  that  seem  to  he  sus- 
pended from  the  sk\ .  and  ,a^;ain  the  walls  re.ich  over  the  wa\'  like 
mij;htv  claws,  and  exhibit  their  serr.itcd  pe.iks  in  a  series  of  rnins  that 
in  the  dist.ince  conjure  the  iniai,Mnation  and  present  a  visimi  of  mono- 
liths, temples,  jjalleries  and  castle^,  such  as  l)estrcw  tlie  old  world, 
nan^ini;  Rock  and  Castle  Rock  are  two  specially  hold  promontories 
that  ^ive  sii);(4;cstion  of  Nilc/tic  and  Rhenish  rnins,  a  verisimilitude 
that  is  intensified  by  the  knowledi,'e  that  when  J(dinst(in  iiuaded  Utah 
in  l>i."i7  the  Murnions  fortified  many  of  the  cliffs  of  both  Weber  and 
Echo  Canons,  the  fading  wreck.s  of  these  structures  beinjj  still  visible. 

Church  Ihittes  and  The  Witches  present  a  stranj^c  conglomera- 
tion in  uniting  religion  with  superstition,  for  they  appeal  to  the  two 
strongest  attributes  of  human  nature.  I-roni  the  west  the  "Witches" 
first  come  into  view,   a  gioup  of    fantastically-wrought  images  that 


JOSEPHINE  FAI.KS,  BEAR  CREEK,  1,'TAH. 


II 


ir 

II 


96 


AMKRICA'S  \\(.)N1)KUI.AM)S. 


ill>)>r.ir  liki-  ili.iotio  rtiatioiH,  till'  rock-carvi'il  (IriMllis  i.f  .lisliiniuri-.l  tin\li..iMl,  tlic  (cvtiisll  inrsditiitions  of  i.lil  Ciiimiiy  Hniiclri  talfs. 
Tliitv  iliiA  >i.iiiil,  like  .111  .i»iiiilil,i«i'  i>(  wi.i/iiiiil  .mil  \MiiiUk<l  \m/.iii1s  plniiiiii;  s>>\nv  .mIuiiic  <•(  tli.ilinliMii,  tlioii^;li  (.-MtLi^liiiKly  anclioml 
lo  the  iti'Mi.il  liilKiik^,  wlure,  liki'  Cii.ml  (Iriiii,  liu\  imii  iIi>  iiotliiiij;  ninif  tli.ni  iii.ikc  faci'i*  at  piwuiTs-hv, 

Cliiiuli  Kiilles  .iri'  iiiiiri'  li.iniMiiiMiH  in  tlnir  outliiu^,  as  will  .is  iii-i^siM'  in  lluir  |iiini<prtiiMis,  siiniiLiliiiK  as  tlicv  cId  c.iiliiilr.ils  ami 
tlKitiiiy  liuu-t^,  s.Hiu- with  t.iwi  IS  .111(1  siiiiis,  .mil  nllurs  ol  Irss  (istint.ilious  aiiliitiitiiif,  liiit  all  iKitiiii;  suair  iiiliiii.ilii>ii  uf  a  uinsliiiiliil 
linrpnsi.,  Iliu  ilusf  iniiiiiw  i  ilmis  ,,(  n.itmi'  .lU'  iml  coiirninl  M  llu'  I'.iiViiis  ii.iiiumI,  nor  a  liiiiitnl  iliMiirl,  fm  ilini  tl\  imilli  ut  ( '.uiii  KiviT, 
anil  iv.uluil  l.\  .1  t'liiMriiiiuiii  ti.iil  Uailiii),'  tu  Vrlli>\vsiom'  I'ark,  aic  what  i.s  known  a.s  the  Itruluis  ami  \Va.shakii:  Uasiiis  of  liail  .Uands,  a 
ri'iiimi  tli.il  i-  II mark.iUk'  fur 
its  cipriiiiius  iniin.iliinis,  tile 
results  ii(    ll|ille.t\  .ll>,  >;l.u'i.il 

seoiiriiii;,  ami  eiii>ions  Uy  wiuil 

ami    w.iltr.      'Phis   (li>iriet  ui 

iiiarvelm.s  fmins  is  a  ii.irt  oi 

I'reiiiimt  eiMiiHy,  euMriiij;  .in 

are. I  of  tweiilv  l)y   tvvellU -li\  c 

miles.     'Pile  ei'nntr\  i>  a  ini\l- 

lire  of  liiiieslum--,    -li.ili--  .mil 

calc.ireous  >.mils|niie»,  wilh 

oce.isinii.il  ureeii  el.iy-.,  m.iil--, 

ami   whitish   .s;m(l,   the    1. liter 

ulUn  iliiltiii'..;  inlo  lull;;  ilnnes. 

'Puwanls  the  mhuIi  eiul  ol   this 

dry  v.illey  there  is  .i  eh.iin  of 

hinff   escarpiniiits,    eMemlinj,' 

ahont  foiirUiii  miles,  and  it  is 

ill  tiie>e  e--e.irpnKnls  tli.il  the 

must  veni.irkal)le  examples  ol 

H.id   Laud  elusions  are  io  lie 

found.      'Pile   ridijes   rise   ;H"' 

feel  above  the  valley  and  pre- 
sent a  series  of  ahrnpt,  ne.irly 

vertieal  f.iees,  woip  into  iiiun- 

lUer.iMe  arehiteetnral   foinis, 

with  det.ulied  jiillars  st.imliii),'  like  moiinliths  some  distance  from  the  walls.     .Moiii;  the  dry  ravines  the  same  curiously  jiicturcsque  fonns 

occur,  .so  that  a  view  of  the  whole  front  of  the  esi:ir|)Uieiil,  with  its  salient  an;;les,  lie.irs  a  striking;  reseuddancc  to  the  ruins  of  a  fortified 

eitv.      iMiurnions  masses  ])rojeet  lioin  the  main  wall,  the  slr.itiiicalions  of  ereaiii,  ^ray  and  j^ieeii  .sands  are  traced  acro.s.s  their  nearly  vertical 

fronts  like  cunvsis  of  immense  masonry,  ami  eviry  face  is  scoured  hy  inimmerahle  narrow,  sli.u])  cuts,  which  are  worn  into  the  soft  material 

from   top  to  Inittoiu  of   the   cliK,  offering;   narrow  jjalleries   which   ),'ive  access  for  a  consideralile  distance  into  this  lahyrintll  of  natural 

fortresses.     At  a  little  (list. nice,  these  .sharp  incisions  se;  in  like  the  spaces  hetweeu  series  of  ]>illars,  and  the  whole  aspect  of  the  rcKi<Mi  is 

tliat  of  a  line  uf  l^^'vplian  structures.     Ainonj,'  the  most    interestinj,'  bodies  are  thu.se  of  the  detached  outliers,  points  of  spurs,  or  i.sclate<l 


(Ml  I'll    I'dCK,   Wl  HTK   r.A'^ON. 


oi.hiisr  MOUSK  IN  sAi.r  lake  city.  UTAII. 


1' 

1 

liii- 

'll, 
■I'l 

nil 

1 
•  1 

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gS 


AMERICA'S  WUXDKRKAXDS. 


liill-,  wliicli  .Mv  iiKTi-  nlic-s  ol  tlic  bids  tliMl  loniu'ily  cii\i.iv<l  llif  whole  \;ilK'y.  TIr'si-  uioiiolitlis,  i)fu-n  rcacliiii';  I'K)  feet  in  lici^jlil,  rise 
<nit  1)1  tlie  suuiolli  siirf.K'o  of  a  U\tl  plain  i>t  chi\ ,  and  arc  scnlplurid  into  llic  most  SMtprisiiiij  forms,  siinnotiiiti'd  l>y  domos  and  ornanuMilcd 
1)\-  many  buttresses  and  jnttinij  pinnacles. 

Clarence  Kintr.  ''.  S.  Cicoloyisl,  in  a  mono,t;Ta|'h  on  the  l!ad  Lands,  says:  "  It  is  not  altosetlier  easy  to  acconnt  for  the  peculiar 
character  of  this  cro>ion,  resnltin<;  as  it  does  in  snch  sini;nlar  \ertical  faces  and  sjiire-likc  forms.  A  jjlanco  at  the  front  of  the.se  Had  Lands 
shows  at  once  that  vcy  nnicli  ot  the  rcsidtant  forms  must  be  the  elfect  of  r.iin  and  \vind-<iorms.  The  small  .streams  which  cut  down  across 
the  escarpment  from  the  interior  of  the  ]ii.iteau,  ilo  ihe  work  of  severing  the  front  into  detached  blocks;  bnt  the  final  forms  of  these  blocks 

tlicm.sehes    are    probably    in  

);real  measure  i^iven  by  the 
elfect  of  rain  and  wind  erosion. 
The  material  is  ^o  excecdin,i;ly 
rme,  that  tinder  the  iiifliience  of 
liickliny;  waters  it  cuts  down 
most  easily  in  vertical  liiii--. 
.\  semi-detached  block,  sei>a- 
r.itcd  by  twt)  lateral  ravines, 
becomes  (iiiickly  carve<l  into 
spires  and  domes,  which  soon 
cnimble  ilovvn  to  tlie  level  of 
the  J)!  lin.  It  seems  piobable 
that  some  of  the  mo-^t  interest- 
inj;  forms  are  broiiijht  out  bv  a 
slii^htiy  harder  stratum  near  the 
top  (,t  the  clitfs  (like  the 
straiij;e,  ^iiid  often  nncouth,  ex- 
amples in  Monnnieiit  I'.irk, 
Colorado),  which  acts  in  a 
iiuasnre  as  a  protector  of  the 
softer  materials,  and  prevents 
them  from  taking;  the  inoiind- 
fornis  that  occur  when  the  beds 
are  of  ecpia!  hardness." 

As  we  till  low  down  (Ireen 
River,    the    -.ame   effect.s    are 

observable  in  the  vertical  bluffs  which  extend  alon^;  the  shores,  images  to  which  fancy  ha.s  jjiven  such  n.iincs  as  the  Devil's  Tea-pot,  the 
Ciiaiit's  Club,  X'crmilion  Cliffs,  and  many  others,  for  the  ^eolofjic  structure  is  the  same  throuj^h  nearly  the  whole  of  .southeast  Wyotniiin. 
Hut  the  so-c:dled  Bad  I,.inds  are  imt  wholly  confined  to  WviMiiinjj,  for  they  are  met  with  in  both  Xortii  and  South  Dakota,  west  of  the 
Mi-Aso'.iri  Kiver;  thoui,'h  for  beauty  and  inaj,'nitude,  those  of  Wyoinin;,'  are  incom])arable. 

l'"rom  Circen  River  Station  we  doubled  our  track  and  returned  toOsden,  where  we  took  some  very  beautiful  views  of  Ogden  Canon, 
the  Narrows,  Adam's  i-\d]s,  and  the  mountains  that  soar  very  far  skyward  at  the  city's  rear.     Itut  our  stay  liere  was  limited  to  two  davs. 


WITCH   KOCKS,  VVRBEH  CASION. 


\  \ 


n 


^i> 


lUI' 

nil 


ii'i 


111 


MORMON  TITHING  HOUSE,  SALT  I  AKF  CITY. 


I  GO 

wIkii  wo  took  llK'l>rt.-gon  bniiic'' 
,)i  ilic  riiioii  r.K'ilicfor  a  \isit  to 
Shoshone  I'.iUs,  on  Snake  River, 
which  for  size  as  well  as  iiias- 
uificence  takes  a  position  sei-ono. 
only  to  onr  world-wondcrln'. 
Xiasjara. 

Directly  after  leavins;  Ojjdcr. 
the  road  enters  the  valle\- of  liear 
Ki\er,  which  it  ft)llo\vs  as  far 
north  as  Weston  I'alls,  a  distance 
of  aliont  se\ent\-ti\e  miles.  The 
sc-nery  aloiiij  this  part  of  the 
route  is  almost  as  rni;i;e(1  as  that 
oi  Weber  Canon,  bein^  <i  snc- 
cession  of  canons  and  lovely 
>iretches  of  le\el  lands  bron.y;ht 
into  tile  hii;hesl  state  of  cultiva- 
tion l.v  Mormmi  industry.  At 
I'ocatello  the  ro.id  branches,  one 
of  its  iron  arms  extcndini;  noith- 
w.iril  to  lUkna,  while  the  main 
line  inrns  westwardly  to  (  )rei;on. 
The  district  which  it  penetrates 
alter  leavin<j  I'ocatello  is  desert- 
like and  devoid  of  interest  almost 
to  the  western  limits  v{  Idaho,  if 
we  except  the  point  where  the 
road  crosses  .Snake  Ki\'er.  Here 
the  American  I'alls  '^o  brawlinij 
and  boiling  over  immense  basaltic 
rocks  that  are  strnggling  with 
the  impetnons  stream,  and  whose 
tops  are  flecked  with  tnfts  of 
foam  thrown  np  by  mad-dashing 
waves.  Hnt  the  waters  have  not 
vet  worn  a  chasm  through  the 
de>crt,  which  spreads  away  on 
either  side  a  level  plain,  f.ntil 
fort v-four  miles  di.stant  the  drcarv 


AMERICA'S  WOXDHRLAXDS. 


HANGING  KOCK,  AMERICAN  FORK  CANON. 


^n 

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Wm:^H'nr^r'-\'  '     J 

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.:¥^'  ■  ^'"'    i^ii iiiiiiiin';,!' ., , 

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'II  : 


102 


AMKRIC.WS  WONDKRLANDS. 


»  ! 


nioiiott'iiv  is  1)iokt.ii  bv  tlirte  buttts  tliat  rise  into  vii-w  nut  of  tlic  uninviting'  l.indscape.  We  now  enter  a  region  tliat  is  somber  beyond  a!! 
pinvir  to  describe;  a  wretched  desolation  that  is  relie\eil  by  no  vej^etatioii  save  of  sajje-brush,  wliicli  straj;j;les  tlirongh  little  rifts  in  the 
earth  and  barelv  lifts  its  head  aluive  the  surface.  These  are  the  lava  beds  that  extend  from  Heaver  Canon  all  alonj;tlie  north  side  of  Snake 
Ri\er.  until  thev  lose  themselves  in  the  stream  where  it  turns  due  north  and  draws  a  boundary  line  between  Idaho  and  Oregon.  The  land 
appears  to  have  been  cursed  with  such  a  fire  as  destroyed  ("romorrah,  for  the  e\ e  wan<lers  over  uolhiug  but  the  fiery  sjiuta  of  Nolcanoes,  that, 
hasiu),'  wroujjht  the  fullest  destruction,  were  in  turn  destroyid.  Kverywhere  we  look  there  i;reets  our  \  ision  waves  of  la\a  that  lashed  the 
earth  until,  tired  of  their  ile\  astatiut;  work,  they  became  coii^'caled,  or  were  arrested  by  the  hand  of  omnii)otence.  Hnt  between  the  knolls  of 
scoria  are  occasional  depressions,  w  hieh 
are  cross-seamed  and  cracked  until  in 
many  jilaces  the  fissures  are  hundreds  of 
feet  deep,  ap|)arcntly  extcudinj;  in  dejith 
to  the  very  vitals  of  the  earth.  Some 
of  the  crevices  arc  oiiI\-  a  lew  inches  in 
width,  while  there  are  others  several  feet 
broad,  into  wbieli  creeks  lia\e  lost  them- 
selves, and  lead  into  bottomless  ])its. 

It  is  a  little  more  than  one  hundred 
miles  from  I'oe.Uello  to  Shoshdue  Sta- 
tion, at  which  point  we  left  the  train, 
and  by  priv.Ue  emuex.ince  struck  across 
tile  lava  fields,  a  distaiKe  of  tweut\-five 
miles  due  south. o\ertbe  (lustiest  wa,i;oii- 
road  that  mortal  e\er  tr.iveled.  The 
way  is  like  a  switch-back,  up  and  down 
over  sharp  waves  of  lava,  with  de>ola- 
tinii  .111(1  diseoiufort  obtrusive  eoinp.iu- 
ious.  and  iiotliinjj;  rising;  above  the  dull 
nndulatious  except  a  purplish  tint  in  tin 
horizon,  inarkiii<r  with  f.iiut  iutiui.itiou 
a  ran!j;e  oi  mountains  one  huiulred  miles 
.iway  ill  Vt.ih.  I'or  more  than  four  hours 
we  traxersed  this  wearvinir  stretch  of 
pinched  and  be;.,'riiue(l  de>ert,  without  .1 
sijjn  of  the  river,  until  at  leii^nh  turniu;; 
the  base  of  a  higher  ri(li,'e  we  came  sudikiiK-  upon  the 
which  we  had  journeyed  so  far  to  \iew.  l.onj,'  belnr 
emau.ite  from  the  earth's  internals,  but   now,  with  astounded  sense  of   the  awful,  we  beheld  the  e.iuse 


IHAI'DI    I'IK.K.  (il'i:i  \   I^IVHR. 


riiik  of  a  tremendous  cb.isin,  and  there,  l,-.'iMi  fti.i   below  our  feet,  was  the  river 
ri.uhiuij  this  objective  jioint,  we  had  heaid  a  deep,  ruuiblintr  noise  that  seemed  to 

There  before  us  was  the  vexed 

waters  of  a  lar>;e  river  ponriuy;  (.ver  two  precipices,  the  fir-t  «2  feet  and  the  second  ilo  feet  liij.;li,  invducing  by  the  final   plnnjje  a  colossal 
cauldron,  from  which  the  mists  rose  up  in  boilin>,'  clouds  that  ever  and  anon  hid  the  falls  from  sij;ht. 

.\  ^;lance  at  this  tremendous  waterfall  more  th.in  compensated  for  all  the  annoyances  and  discomforts  tluit  we  had  endured.      It  wa    a 


!    " 


}  : 


■'-J 


III! 

I 

;!  .iiir 


Hi 


.!i.| 


If 


PUI.PIT  UOC.K,  KCHO  CAIVION,  VVHKRli  HRKiHAM  YOllN(i  FIRST  PRHACHbD  IN  UTAH. 


M 


^i 


104 


AMERICA'S  V;ONDERLANDS. 


scene  of  positively  bewildering  majesty;  a  vision  of  tlie  incomparably 
grand;  an  object  lesson  teacbini;  the  niiKlitincss  and  mysterious  \va>s  of 
(iod.  In  the  deep  diapason  of  its  voice  we  reco<,'ni/.cd  natnre's  halle- 
lujah, and  the  thunderous  boom  of  its  pluu>;in);s  was  like  a  chorus  of 
invocation  welling  from  a  million  tliroats.  Us  love'v  grandeur,  burst- 
ing out  of  the  heart  of  desolation,  is  the  personification  of  powerful, 
awe-inspiring  sublimity,  an  exaltation  of  deity,  an  inspiration  to  the 
soul,  a  very  glorification  and  apotheosis  of  nature. 

Pausing  on  the  bank  to  contemplate  and  measure  the  colossal 
wonder  of  the  falls,  we  saw  the  emerald  stream  gliding  along  as  placidly 
as  though  its  mission  was  one  of  ])eace;  nor  was  there  any  appearance 
of  danger  to  the  ferryman,  who  operated  his  boat  by  an  over-head  wire 
cable  stretched  from  V;-.".k  to  bank,  only  I'lil)  yards  abo\e.  The  quiet 
flow,  however,  was  better  understood  when  we  learned  that  the  river 
here  is  '2^0  feet  deep;  a  verv  ocean  filling  a  mighty  chasm;  an  iinui- 
dated  canon  whose  volume  of  water  equals  that  of  a  dozen  Xiagarns, 
for  this  tremendous  gorge  extends  0  distance  of  ei;^hteeu  miles,  and  its 
bottom  lies  under  the  river  1,4(10  feet  below  the  brink. 

Shosliiine  Falls  ])roper  are  ('."lO  feet  wide  at  the  point  of  jirecipi- 
tatiou,  but  only  a  few  yards  to  the  rear  of  it  are  Hridal  Vtil  Falls,  whose 
width  is  lio  feet,  and 
which  constitute  the 
first  plunge  or  precipice, 
which  in  turn  is  broken 
into  a  series  of  minor 
cascades,  known  as  Bri- 
dal Train  and  Natural 
Mill  Race  Falls,  the  di- 
visions being  produced 
by  the  interposition  of 
Kagle  Rock  and  Hell's 
Island.  One  mile  and 
a  ludf  below  the  cataract 
are  Cascade  Falls,  while 
three  miles  above  are 
Twin  Falls,  which  leap 
down  a  height  of  1><" 
feet,  thus  showing  that 
there  is  a  space  of  nearly 
five  miles  in  which  the  MAIDEN  OF  THE  BAD  LANDS. 


WITCH  ROCK,  BAD  LANDS  OF  WYOMING. 


MONUMENT  ROCK,  ECHO  CAfJON. 


GIANT'S  CLUB,  GREEN  RIVER. 


'il' 


'    I 


lilt'    ' 


'"      nil  , 
il!|. 

"'' %  I 

''III-  (^ 


i,|i| 


i     I 

I       I 


jj   I 

Ml 


--r 

1 


io6 


AMlvRICA'S  WOXDKRI.AXDS. 


tlltlK'luliiUS    I'll.lslll    ll.lS    lill'Il 

\vuid-iMiinin,i;  In  tlii-  itiuiiialislic  ]kh 


turn  l'\'  Cduvulsidiis  wliicli  tiiosl  ]ir(>l)i 


il.l\ 


11(1  ;iltir  till'    vivir   w.is  tiinuil   intn  Us   l)t( 


(imsitc 


>f  Iloii.C.C.  ('niiidwiii  is  luu-  upnMhuM 


Till-  I.i\a  iKilsot  Iil.ilio  ;in- .1  ni.nUtil  U.iUiiv  i.f  lli.it   Ti-nitcry.      .St.iitiiii;  iumt  I 


■  istirii   lM)im(i;ii\  ,  tlK-\ 


i\liii(l  soittliwcstL'rIv 


lor  a  Ion;, 
1 


(list. 


IIKC, 


and 


an- 


Ironi  ;iiii'  kit  t( 


HO  f 


(.(.l  in  (U| 


itli.     Tliis  mass  was  omc  a  rivir  of  inoltui  liu-,  llii'  niakini;  of  which  imi-t 


lave  siK'i'fiik'd 


oM!\iilsMn  (ii  n.itniv  nior 


(.■  Icrril.k-  than  anv  ever  witiicsMil  by  mortals,  and  loiiy;  voars  must  have  ]>, 


sscd  l)(.-(()r(.-  the  aw  liil 


liery  mass  was  cm 
sovereiirii    liwr,   a 


'I'll  tlk'  la-t  of  the  sniiice   cf   the   la\a   flow  ,  the 
tlowiin;    at    tiist    southwesterly   and   then   hiiuliii!. 


Snake   Ri\ir  bursts  oiil  of  the  hill 


nniiii;  almost  at  once  a 


Tcrriti 


.koned  tiniii  la-t  to  Wi.-!,  and  alxviit  forty   mil 


tnia 


1\-  with  the  Columbia.      'I'lie  t\\ori\ers  conibine( 


we-terh  ,  eiits   through   the  lava  fields  nearly   in  the  center  of  the 
irtli   of  its  southern  border.  ,iiid  tlunee  flowinj,'  with  ,i;reat  curves,  mer^^es 
make  one  of  the  chief  waterwavsof  the  continent,  and  here  and  there  take  on  jiictures 


of  s^ie.it  bcaiUv.  Xi  \er  an\  wlKTcelse  was 
there  sneh  a  sieiie;  ni\ir  an\  where  iKe 
w.is  so  beantilnl  a  i>iclnre  hnn^  in  so  rnde 
a  frame;  ne\tr  anywheie  el-e,  on  a  back- 
t;ronild  so  forbiddin.i;  and  weird,  were  so 
nianx  ;^lories  clustered,  .\roiind  and  be- 
voiid,    there    is    liothiil:^    but   the    desert  — 


i-re,  silent,  lilele> 


thon-h    l\ 


had   builded  there    exerlastinij    thrones  to 


lorrow  and 


Desp; 
av  ba 


in  remote  a.i;es,  nwr 
the  withered  breast  I'i  the  desert,  .i  riwrof 
lire,  bill  miles  wide  and  -IHO  miles  lonj,-, 
was  tnriu-d.     As  the  licrv  ma.s.s  cooled,  its 


■d    w. 


became  transfiNed,  and  turned 


black,  K'^'"ir  t"  I'k'  double-desert  an  inde- 
scribably blasted  and  forbiddini;  face. 

"Ihit  while  this  ri\xr  of  lire  was  in 


ir  of  water  w.is  li.nluin.i;  its 


w,i\ 


across  It,  or  has  si 


RANKS  or   S\\K|-    RIVIR. 


nee  m.ide  war  and  fori,'ed 
out  for  itself  .i  channel  throuuh  the  mass. 
This  channel  looks  like  the  jjraxe  of  a  vol- 
cano lll.lt  had  been  robbed  of  its  de 


ihll 


rii;lu  between  its  crumliliii;.^  and  npelleiit  walls,  traiisfi!j;uration  apinars.      .Vnd  such  a  ]iicti 


.\  river 


ndlv  as  the  Hudson  or  Ohio, 


from   the  (list. nil  sik 


sted  Tetons,  with  watcr.s  transiiareut 


lut   screen   as  enier.ild,  with    majestic   flow  and  ever- 


incrtasiu;'  \i>liime,  sweens  on  until  it  readies 


this  point  where  tlic  disjilay  bejj 


'.Suddenly,  in  dillereut  ])Iaces  in  the  river-be<l,  ja^'j^ed  rocky  reefs  are  upheaved,  dividiny;  the  rnrreiit   into  four  rivers,  and  these,  ir 


a  iui;j;lily  pluiij,'e  of  eii,dity  feet  (h 


•d, 


on  their  wav.      Of  course  the  waters  are  churned   into  foam,  and   roll  over  the  i)recipice 


white  as  are  the  "'■ifuents  o 


f  til 


e  morniii'r  wlieii  no  el 


iscures  the  snu. 


Tl 


.ce  wnieu  is  woven  w 


because  it  is  made  of  the  1; 

is  a  lulls,'  trail  of  foam,  and  this  is  called 


precij) 
St  of  these  falls  is  called   "The  liridal  Veil,'» 
.iiilij.;lit.     .\bove  this  and  near  the  ri^jht  bank, 
le  Hrid.il  Trail."     The  other  channels  are  not  .so  f.or  as  the  one  called  "The  Bridal  Veil,'* 


ith 


1  w.iri)  o: 


id  ol 
)f   f; 


illui''  waters  and  a  woo 


f  of 


WEBER  VAl.l.EY,  AND  TUNNEL  THROUGH  CRANITfi  WAl.l.S,  UTAH. 


1 

■1 
ij 

I 

1 

i  ' 

!    1 

I      i, 


I  I 


iiir 


'tl 
ir     ' 


i  1 


io8 


AMERICA'S  WOXUHRI-AXDS. 


l)Ut  lluy  arc  more  furci'  and  wild,  and  i-am- 
in  tliiir  li.iiicM<ins  swiip  nmri'  pdwir. 

"Oiicof  till"  ri'i'fs  wliicli  dividts  till' 
n\tT  in  niid-idiaMnvl  runs  np  to  a  i>Lak,  and 
on  tiiis  a  laniily  of  (.m,l;Ks  haw,  lhnin),'li  the 
years,  ina\-  he  ihruuyh  eeiilnries,  made  their 
home  ami  reared  their  youn;;,  mi  the  very 
vcr^jc  iif  tile  abyss  and  amid  llie  lull  eehois 
of  the  resoundin>j  roar  of  the  f.ills.  ,Snrel\ 
tlie  eayle  is  a  littiiij^'  symlx^l  of  (lerfeet  fear- 
lessness, and  of  th.it  exultation  wliieh  eoniis 
with  battle  el.miors. 

"  lUit  these  first  falls  are  but  a  beniii- 
niii^;.  The  j;reatersiilendor  succeeds.  With 
swifter  flow,  the  startled  waters  dash  on, 
and  within  a  few  feet  take  their  second 
plunye  into   a  solid    crescent,  o\er  a  sheer 


PETRIFIED  TREES  OF  THE  HAU  LANDS. 


hf\;:tii:s  oi   nil-;  inn  i  ands. 

extremities  of  its  arc  are  anchored,  and 
there  iu  itn  main  -colored  robes  of  li^'lit  it 
lies  outstretched  abo\e  the  abyss  like 
wre.iths  of  flowers  above  a  sepulchre.  I'p 
tliroui;h  the  j,'lory  and  terror  an  e\erlastiutj 
roar  ascends,  diep-toned  as  is  the  voice  of 
fate,  a  diapason  like  thai  the  rolliiijj;  oce.in 
chants  when  his  eai^er  surges  conie  rushin^j 
in  to  jjreet  and  liercelv  woo  .-m  irresponsi\e 
promontory. 

"  Ihit  to  feel  all  (he  .iwe  and  to  mark 
all  the  splendor  and  power  that  conus  of 
the  iui.!,;ht\- displ.i\-,  iiue  mu>t  climb  down 
the  deep  descent  to  the  river's  brink  below, 
and  pressing;  up  as  nearly  as  possible  to  the 
falls,  contemplate  the  tremendous  i)ictnre. 
There,  somethinjj;  of  the  enery;v  that  creates 
that  endless  panorania   is   coniprehended; 


|irici])ice,  •.'!'>  feet  to  the  ab\  ss  iielow.  On 
the  brink  there  is  a  rolliii);  crest  of  white, 
dotted  here  ami  there,  in  shar])  contrast, 
with  shining;  eddies  of  j;rei-ii,  as  ini)4ht  a 
necklace  of  eiiieraUis  shimmer  on  a  throat  of 
snow,  .iiid  then  the  leap  and  fall. 

"Mere  more  than  foam  is  made. 
Hire  the  waters  are  shivered  into  lleecy 
s]ira\,  whiter  and  finer  tiiaii  an\-  miracle 
th.it  iver  fell  from  an  India  loom;  while  from 
the  depths  below,  an  e\  erl.istinj;  vapor  rises — 
the  incense  of  the  waters  to  the  water's  (lod. 
h'inalh  ,  throiij^h  the  lonn,  nndonded  days, 
the  sun  sends  down  his  beams,  and  to  fjive 
the  startling  scene  its  ^jrowiiiK  splendor, 
wreathes  the  terror  and  tli>'  jjl  iry  in  a  rain- 
bow   halo.     l>n    eitlier    snl'en    bank   the 


c;li)ak  canon,  bad  lands  of  Dakota. 


I    I 


I  < 


M 


k     . 


III 


ii.r 


V  Jl 


I:  : 


;i!i 


THE  BLUFFS  OF  GREEN  RIVER.  UTAH. 


,,,,  AMKKICA'S  \VC)XUI';RI,ANDS. 

,ill  llif  lUip  tliiiilitiiiij^s  (if  tin-  iniKlitv  riMi'i  1)Ii1ms  ;ir'  kit,  nil  ilii'  iii,i^;iiirnfiu'c  is  siiii.  In  the  rnitIk  r.itidiiH  tlial  comi-  of  t1ie  war  of 
w.iliis,  niH- lu.iis  sdiiKlliinv;  liki'  I'mil's  \niii-;  sdimtliiiiy  liUf  tlii'  spli  lulur  of  ('mil  is  Inforf  liis  ivfs;  stmii-tliitin  akin  In  ( 'md's  pdwcr  is 
inaiiil'i'siiiii;  ii^ill  lulnn-  hiiM,  ami  Iiis  ,sii\il  >liriiiks  within  ilsilt,  ('(iiisi.'iuiis,  as  luxir  lirlotf,  nf  its  dwii  littlfiii'ss  and  hcl|>li'ssm-ss  in  the 
pivsviii'i'  oi   ilif  wntkinys  111   Natiiri's  iiiiiiUMsuralili'  fmcis. 

"  Xiil  i|uili-  Ml  nia>--isi-  is  the  |iii'iiiii'  .is  is  N'ia^;ara,  hut  it  lias  iiihh'  lights  ami  shailrs  ami  lci\c'liin'ss,  as  though  a  ham!  mine  diviiii'h' 
skilled  had  iiii\ed  the  tints,  and  with  inme  deliiMte  art  h.id  transli\ed  tliini  n|iiiu  th,it  pietiire  sus|)emle<l  there  in  its  rUK^jed  and  somber 
Ir.iMie.  As  (Mie  w.itehes,  it  is  not  dillienlt  to  l.iney  th.it,  iw  i\  h.iek  in  the  ininiemorial  and  nnreeorded  past,  the  anyel  of  lo\e  bewailed  the 
laet  th.it  imirt.ds  were  to  be  ;^i\eil 
esislenee  in  .1  >pot  so  loiliiddin;;,  .i 
spot  th.it,  .ipp,iniil]\  .  w.is  m\er  to 
be  warmed  with  ('md's  smile,  whicii 
was  never  to  make  a  si:^n  thron;;!i 
whieh  ('iiid'>  merev  w.is  to  bi'  dis- 
eerned;  th.it  tlun  omnipolenee  w.is 
lonehed,  tli.it  with  His  li.iiid  He 
smote  the  hills  ,ind  st,irted  the  yu.it 
ri\er  in  its  tlow;  that  with  His  lin'^ir 
lie  traced  out  the  eh.innel  aeios-  tin.- 
eor]ise  ol  th.it  other  river  th.it  li.id 
been  lire,  mingled  the  >nnbe.iiiis 
with  the  raj^in;^  watirs,  ,iml  m.ide  it 
possilile  in  that  lire-bl.isted  frame  of 
uiniii  to  swiiii,'  a  ]iieture  whieh 
.-lionld  be,  tirst  to  the  red  tn.iii  and 
Liter  to  the  pale  raees,  a  eert.iiii  sii;ii 
of  the  exisleiiee,  the  ]>(iwer,  and  the 
iina])pr(.iaehable  spleiidorof  Jelmx  .ill. 

".\ndastlie  rid  man,  throii>;h 
the  centuries,  w.itelied  the  sjiectaele, 
eom|)rehendinj,'  nuthiiif,'  e\ce]it  that 
an  infinite  voice  was  sinilinj,;  his 
e.irs,  and  insufferable  glories  were 
bla/.in.y;  befr.-  his  eyes;  so,  tlironj;h 
the  ceiitiiri  )  conie,  the  pale  races 
will  stand      pon  the  shndderin^  shore  and   watch,  experiencin 


.\10Vi;  \    I  Al  I  S,    II  (All!  ). 


mi),'hly  impulse  to  put  off  the  .sandals   from  their  feet,  under  an  over- 
masterinjjj  consciunsness  that  the  spot  on  which  they  are  standing,'  is  hole  jjronnd. 

"There  is  nothing  elsewhere  like  it,  nothin>;  half  so  weird,  .so  beantifnl,  so  clothed  in  majesty,  so  draped  with  terror;  nothinR  else 
that  awakens  impressions  at  once  so  startlinj,',  so  winsome,  so  profonnd.  While  journeying  tlironnh  the  desert,  to  come  .snddenly  iiixm  it, 
the  spectacle  Rives  one  somethin},'  of  the  emotions  that  wmild  be  experienced  in  beholdin;'  a  resurrection  from  the  dead.  In  the  midst  of  what 
seems  like  a  dead  world,  suddenly  there  springs  into  irrepressible  life  .something  .so  marvelous,  .so  yrand,  .so  cai)ari.soned  with  loveliness  and 


IU4' 
III) 


liH|  (■ 


112  AMHRICA'S  WUXDKRLAXDS. 

irresistil)lc  niiylit,  that  tin-  luad  is  liowcd,  tlio  stiaiiKtl  luail  tlirol>s  tiiiiiultiioiisly,  and  llie  awed  soul  sinks  to  its  knees." 
approaching  whin  llio  sid)linie  ylorio  of  ShoshoiR'  l-alls  will  W-  appreciated  by  lonrists,  and  by  that  lar>;e  chiss  of  snninier 


The  time  is  fast 
vacationists  who 


ai 


eal 


\va\  s  searcinn 


lor  si;^hts  and  places  that  will  drive  away  the  (/////// 
lictlv  suffer.     The  beat   of  oi-e->'.i   billow,    the  roar  of 

k,  the  Io:kI\- 


from  which  tliev 

w.Uerfall,  ll.e  stretch   of  I.iiidsc.ipe   fr.mi   lofty   mountain   pc.i 


i|uieHide  of  yleii  and  wilderne 


A\  h, 


heir  votaries;   Init  ,d>ont   Sho- 


shone's ch.isni  there  is  more  to  charm  than  all  of  these,  for  tl 


le  \er\"  (le> 


tion  <> 


fits 


environments  adds  lascinalion 


to  the  wild  and  t.imeless  sceiier 


V  ol 


the  f.iMs.  The  poet  and  the  ii.iinler  find  here  an  inspiration  tor  their 
i.;eiiiiis;  while  the  most  pros, lie  .-pecl.aor  is  thrilled  by  the  matchless 
•grandeur,  the  majestic  awfulness  i>f  a  in,iil-c.iiiterin.u  river  pliin.i;iii<;  tlirou.i.;li 
a  jjiyantic  rent,  and  over  a  precijiice  si 
into  nii.st   and  dissolve  in  rainliows  when  tliey  meet  the  seetliin|Lj 


hi}.;h  til, It  the  waters  are  scatlcrcc 


It   is  a  straii.i;e  evhibition  of  n.itiire's  power 


id  lre,ikishnes>, 


manifestation    of    iiu -iterious    force,    a   bleiidiiij.;  of  lesiills  precipitated   by 


xiiinitiiu 


volca 


d 


irresistible  tlood  of  w.iU-rs. 


thi 


ol  rners 


of  lire  with  streams  breakin.!,'  over  the  barriers  I'f  nioiintains  and  pi 


ilowii    upon 
Coiis'.de' 


the    p 
the    sir 


Iiil;-,  the  lileak  sterility  of 
what  .ippears  to  be  a  bound- 
less e\tiiit  of  la\a  fields,  and 
tile  iiiii.;lily,  awe-conipelliii,i,r 
a\'.ilanclie    of    waters    that 


It,   .Sh. 


ills 


is  perhaps  the  iiii>^t  remark- 
able w,iterf,ill  to  lie  found 
aiiywhcie  mi  eitlur  coiui- 
iie'at,  ,1  wonder  i  n  which 
,Sn,ike   Ki\er  has  ,ni  alns  -t 


'I' 


part. 


extr.iordinarv  river  e\liiliits 


lualK 


a^b  nl■^lllm^ 


teatllli 


aloiijr    Us   extreme 


Ieii;,;th,  lor  while  .1   "reater 


le    stream 


iria,  till 


Jiait  of   tl 
llirounh  a  bill  of  sc 
lower  portion  is.i  succession 
of  waterfalls,  second  onlv  to 


THE    l-LRHY    AT   SHOSHO.NB    l-AI.I.S. 


tl 


lose  o 


f  .Shu 


NAiLMAi.  ni*iij(;i:,  shoshonr  pai.ls. 


CIIAl'TKR  W 

OVER  THE  HEIGHTS  AND  INTO  THE  DEEPS  OF  WONDERLAND. 


E.WIN(i  satisfied  our  curiosity  aud  cnibaluicd  the  views  of  Shoslioue  I'alls,  as  here  preseuled,  our  party  of  photographers  and 
historiographer  returned  to  Colorado  o\er  tlie  same  route  tiiat  we  had  come,  but  at  Grand  Junction  we  proceeded  southward  over 
the  Denver  &  Kio  Ciraude  Railroad  to  Gunnison,  Ouray  and  Tulleride.  At  (Vaud  Junction,  Grand  River  divides,  the  southern 
branch  of  which  is  called  Gunnison  River,  and  takes  its  rise  in  the  Sagauche  and  V,\k  ranges;  aud  it  was  along  the  valley  of  this 
south  branch  that  our  route  lay.  It  is  characteristic  of  Cuiorado  rivers  that  all  of  them  flow  through  large  fissures,  and  a  majority 
have  cleff  the  mountains  into  mighty  chasms,  thus  producing  the  niatcliless  scenery  which  has  helped  so  nnicli  to  make  the  State 
famous.     It  fortunately  happens  that  the  most  picturesque  places  in  the  west  are  either  directly  upon  the  lines  or  in  the  near  vicinity  of 

railroads,  for  necessity  has  compelled  their  

construction  along  the  river  valleys,  since 
there  are  few  other  passes  in  the  mount- 
ains, and  no  other  routes  .so  feasible. 

The  scenery  along  the  souih  branch 
of  Grand  River  is  very  similar  to  that 
which  we  have  described  on  the  main 
stream,  and  leaving  Grand  Junction  we 
almost  immediately  entered  the  I'naweep 
Canon,  thence  in  succession  Pnuiweep  and 
Kscalaute.  The  road  leaves  the  valley  of 
the  main  stream  at  Delta,  aud  follows  a 
smaller  branch  (Cedar  River)  a  distance 
of  fifty  or  sixty  miles,  until  Cimarron  is 
reached,  below  the  southern  teruiiiuis  of 
the  Mesa\'enle.  In  this  interval,  au'!  run- 
ning along  the  north  side  of  the  Mesa 
Verde — Green  Plateau — is  the  Graiul  Canon 
of  the  Gunnison,  a  cleft  in  the  earth  that 
is  magnificently  imjiosing,  possessing  as  it 
does  many  of  the  characteristics  of  Grand 
River,  though  the  walls  are  of  limestone 
and  hence  not  so  precipitous,  as  being 
more  easily  eroded  than  gn\uite,  the  base  of  the  walls  are  cut  until  in  many  places  they  shelve  far  over  the  stream,  while  at  frequent 
intervals  the  river  is  broken  by  cascades  aud  waterfalls,  those  of  Chip.ieta  l)eing  particularly  beautiful. 

Black  Canon,  which  begins  near  the  town  of  Cimarron,   is  another  wild  gorge,  through  which  the  river  glides   with  .state!--  and 
miintermpted  majesty,  a  deep  crvstalline  stream,  until  it  ])as.ses  Curracanti  Needle,  when  the  smooth  flow  is  interrupted  by  bowld        wnich 
' oiivert  it  into  a  rapid.     Currecanti  Needle  is  an  object  which  excites  the  almost  reverent  wonder  of  everj-  beholder.     It  is  a  syt:ii..etrical 
"3  8 


UNAVVEhP  CASiON. 


TOADSTOOL   ROCK,   NEAR  (^lUNNISON. 


till 


III    I 


i!  iir     ! 


;<;? 


III 


ni 


EAGLE   ROCK,  SHOSHONE   PAllS. 


•■•i 


'     Hi 

I   i 

>   ill/      li| 


ii6 


AMi'RIC.WS  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


is  ck-;iiiv  \i>ibk'  tliroiii;li  tin-  tenuous  ;iir.      Tlio  ridi-  dwr  this  ijri-.il  umuiU.iiu  is  ducol  tlie  most  (l(.'li;,'liliul  auil  picturi-siiue  in  ;ill  tin-  world, 

and  leaves  an  impression  wliieli  is  as  eliarmiuij  and  fadeless  as  the  menior\-  of  a  1  >  \  's  lir-t  tiiumi.h.     Alter  passiny;  down  the  moniiiain 

side,  a  short  run  brink's  tis  to  I'oueha  Junetion,  at  the  eiitranee  of  the  \'alley 

of  the  Arkans.is,  ainl   a   few  miles   further  Salida  is  readied,  a  splendiii 

little  town  that  is  b^'ijirt  with  niouiitaius,  b\it  reposes  like  a  jewel  in  a  jjreen 

sea  of  aniaziuj;  fertility  and  beaut>  .      As  we  rush  eastward  down  this  lovely 

vallev,  some  .vondrous  sights  are  viewable  from  our  ear.      Cn  the  rii,'ht  the 

Arkaus.is  Kixer    bowls    alout;   elose    by    the    traek,   while    far  bevoud  tlie 

horizon  is  belted  with  the  .'saut^re  ile  Cristo  raUi,;e.      (In  our  Kit  (■\ir  eyes 

are  j^laddeued  with  the  sii;ht  of  tlirn-  bristlinj;   peaks,  known  as   Ilarwird, 

Princeton  and   Vale,  \\liieii  rise  abo\e  their  more  humble  broiheis  in  the 

Park  raui;e.     The  scene  now  uuder.i;oes  a(|uiek  chaui.;e,  for  the  \  alley  becomes 

rapiiUy  narrowed  by  the  mountains  drawiujj  toi,'etlKr,  as  if  to  liar  our  ]>as- 

saije;  but  as  their  seared  sides  and  snowy  crest-'  become  more  disliuet  by  a 

closer  approach,  the  scenery  increases  in  interest  until  soon  it  develops  into 

positive  f;randeur.     At  Pirkdale  we  observe  that  the  slopin<j  sides  of  the 

nionniains  arc  beeoininy;  more  abrupt  and  rocky,  until   five  miles  beyond, 

the  jjii^Mutic,  tlie  marvelous  and  the  terror-insjiirinj;   Kov.d  Ciori^e  bursts 

full   upon   our  amazed   and  startled  senses.      The  colo.s>.d   jie.ik   has  been 

cut  in  twain;  sliced  by   the  persistent   waters  of  the  .\rkansas,   that   with 

remorseless  jaws  have  e.iteu  throuj;h  the  he.irt  of  the  i;iant  monut.iin  that 

lay  down  in  its  vvav  ;  aud  there  the  .L;reat  Hash  breaks  before  us,  into  wliicli 

the  raveniui;  river  rushes,  with   a  jjrovvliu).;  voice  aud   imperious  d.isli,  as 

reckless  as  a  b.uidit,  aud   impetuous  as  a  fiery  youth.      Pines  aud  aspens 

strui^ijle  up  the   niotinl.iin  sides,  but  where  the  vv. iters    have  split  a  wav 

there  is  nothiu;.;  save  vertical  walls  of  stone  th.it  so.ir  up,  tip,  so  hi.1,'11  th.it 

it    wearies    the  sis.;ht   to   travel   to   their  sur.imits.      There    are  seams  and 

depressions  in   their  awful   cliffs,   aud    projections   aud    e.ivities  that  show 

imprints  of  the  teeth   of  frost,  aud  away  u])  on  these  eaj^les   h.ive  found 

rcstiu>;  places,  and  1  iiilt  their  eyries  where  only  the  storm-i,'od  cm  reacli 

them.      Distance,  as  expressed  in  feet  on  Jiapcr,  eonvevs  scarcely  au  i<lea  of 

iiKmutaiu  lui;;ht  or  canon  depth,  for  the  awesome  presence  !■;  laekiuj.;.     lint 

the  hei;^'ht  of  the  walls  of  the  Rov  al  Cori^e,  or,  .is  it   is  sometimes  called, 

the  rrr.ind  CafKiu  of  the  .\rk.iUs.is,  is  .'!,n(H)  i^■l_■^,  ,,r  more  th.in  h.ilf  a  mile. 

while  the  eha>m  is  only  fifty  feet  wide  where  the  river  rushes  through,  aud 

but  seventy  feet  at  'he  summit.      Three  luffel  towers,  set  upon  top  of  cacli 

other,  would  hardly  reach  the  cr  vvn  of  these  tremendous  cliffs,  around  the 

crests  of  which  flying  cajoles  look  like  flies  lazily  swimmiiij,' in  a  haze  of 

distance.     In  order  to  avoid  cnttinsj  a  mad-bed  tlironnh  the  b.iseof  the  pc- 

pendicnlar  cliffs,  which  conic  very  close  together,  au  iron  brid^;e  has  been  PROFILE  ROCK,  NEAR  OliRAY. 


.MOIMH   Ol-   URANU   UIVtK  CANON. 


I        ■> 


^'1 


r      III,. 

'll  III! 


% 


III!  iiir 


i  % 


1  frt-Hif 


ii 


i 

'i 

i 

i 

1 

ii8 


A M HR ICA 'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


IU(' 


!^i.; 


tlirown  arouiul  the  dotile  and  siis]KiKlcd  by  aiHlioriiij;  its  .sides  in  tlie 
fjranite  walls,  so  that  it  has  no  pillared  stipporls,  for  none  art-  nwdod. 
Upon  this  siispi-nilcd  lirnl^e,  whii'h  rnns  ]),iralkl  with  and  owr  the 
stream,  e\ery  jiassen.yer  train  stops  lor  the  spaee  of  several  niiunles  to 
jjive  o])portunity  for  an  iuspeetion  of  the  Koyal  ( '.orye,  whieh  is  most 
appallins.;  and  wonderfnl  at  this  point. 

rile  eastern  end  of  the  ,u:ori;e  is  at  Canon  Cit\  ,  and  after  lea\iiip; 
this  ]>laee  the  valley  widens  rapidly  and  spreads  ont  into  an  arid  plain 
that  joins  the  prairies  of  Kansas.  The  chan<;e  from  a  weirdlv  wild 
and  sasai^ely  astonndin.y;  eafion,  to  the  pale  landscape  of  a  verdnreless 
<lesert,  is  \erv  sudden,  and  there  is  no  variation  in  the  passionless 
monotony  of  alkaline  ]il.nn  that  lies  between  the  nunnitain  and  I'ueblo, 
a  distance  of  fortv  miles.  The  .\rkansas  losis  mneh  of  its  \(.ihnne  and 
activity  in  strns^ijlinj;  thnjni^h  the  parched  lands,  beeoniiny;  a  listless 
stream,  and  murky  with  sediment  that  is  leathered  from  its  last- 
washinj;  banks. 

We  had  to  double  upon  our  route  vcr\'  often  in  order  to  reach 

the  munerons  points  of 
interest  and  charminjf 
scenery  which  is  accessi- 
ble by  railro.id,  but  in 
many  ca.se.s  much  time 
was  saved  by  (li\idin}; 
our  party,  thouj,di  we  re- 
frain from  wearyim;  the 
reader  with  the  uninter- 
esting particulars  of 
these  movements.  In 
the  ])resent  instance, 
however,  two  of  our 
plloto<;raphers,  with  t';-^ 
camera  car,  proceeded 
Southwest  from  I'neblo, 
o\tr  the  Denver  6c  Rio 
drande  R.  R., toWaf^on- 
W'heel  Cap  while  the 
others  of  our  party  re- 
turned, by  way  of  the 
same  rcjute  we  had  just 
traversed,   to   Montrose, 


1-1  AMMi    lOWl-:!',   I'KPPV   I'Al^k. 


"•-^     -'V^ 


'•••i  -^^ 


'*^<,- 


4,^. 


\--^: 


CASr.ADI-,    Ar  OllRAV. 


1. 


,  111 

'il: 
:  II' 

•III 


IIH- 
llll 

liiir : 


iiS 


AMERICA'S  WONDKRLAXDS. 


tliroNvii  aroinul  llio  di'tile  and  .>iiis]K'ii(k'il  by  aiu-limiii)^  its  sidrs  in  tlic 
j;r,uiite  walls,  so  tli.it  it  li.is  no  pilLiicd  sttpporls,  for  none  art-  iicedi-d. 
I'lioii  this  suspi'iuU-d  lii'd.i^i',  wliii'li  runs  inralkl  with  and  owr  tile 
slivaiu,  cwrv  passinj^er  train  sto])s  lor  tin'  space  of  siseral  ininntes  to 
jjive  opporltinil\-  for  an  inspection  of  the  Royal  Ciorj^e,  wliicli  is  most 
appalliiii;  ami  wonderful  at  tliis  point. 

rile  eastern  end  of  the  .s,'orye  is  at  Canon  City,  .md  after  leavins; 
this  ]>l.ice  the  valley  widens  r.ipidly  and  spre.ids  out  into  an  arid  plain 
that  joins  the  prairies  of  Kansas.  The  ciiain^e  from  a  weirdly  wild 
•ind  sa\a<;ely  asloiindin<j;  canon,  to  the  Ji.de  landscajie  of  a  \erdnreless 
<lesert,  is  \ery  snd  len,  and  there  is  no  v.iriation  in  tlie  passionless 
monotiniy  of  alkaline  pl.nii  that  lies  l)etweeii  llie  nionntain  and  I'licMo, 
a  distance  of  forty  miles.  The  .\rkans.is  losts  nnicli  of  its  \oliinie  and 
activity  in  strn<;;4liiijj  throiij^^h  the  parcheil  lands,  l)econiini;  a  listless 
stream,  and  murky  with  sediment  that  is  .i;atliered  from  its  fast- 
washinj;  banks. 

We  had  to  double  upon  our  route  vciy  often  in  (nder  to  reach 

the  nnnierons  points  of 
interest  and  charm  i  n  jj 
.scenery  wliicii  is  accessi- 
ble by  railroad,  lint  in 
many  cases  much  time 
w.is  saved  i)y  di\idinjj 
onr  jiart) ,  thouijh  we  re- 
frain from  we.irx  iiii;  the 
reader  with  the  nnintcr- 
estinjT  particulars  of 
these  movements.  In 
the  jiresent  instance, 
however,  two  of  our 
I>hotoi»rupliers,  with  t!;-^ 
camera  car,  iJioeeeded 
southwest  from  I'neblo, 
over  tile  Deiuer  X:  Rio 
C.rande  R.  R.,  to\Va,i,'oii- 
Wheel  Cap  while  the 
others  of  our  parly  re- 
turned, l)y  way  of  the 
same  mnte  \vc  had  just 
traversed,   to   .Montrose, 


II   \MN(.    lOWh'l',   I'HPPY    (>.\KK. 


(,\S(    \I)i;    \r   (311R.\V. 


4 

_■»■ . 

^ 

\\  ■.. 

"      ! 

4     ■ 

4 

s 

-iJ'.'tl'SSY 

^ 

:;'% 

m 

i§^#*««82s 

1 

'7'.-     g 
f^^^^.^' 

■'■■.'        ■,■•»■;*/ '.' 

{ 

u 


ll 


1  ■ 

i. 

^  1 

'; 

:    ,1 

\ 

'» 

1   , 

\W{' 

nil 


"II 


nti      I 


I20 


AMl-klCA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


iKMicf  to  ( )iini\ 


111(1  flDIU   tluit  UMlllillUS 


sl:it;o 


mill 


til    Imiitoii,  ;i  (lisl.nu'C   I'l   siAi'll 
MniM    this   l.itttr   iMiiiit  tlu'\    t'cil- 


i]   ul   tl 


..niK-    In.ul 


ilk' 


till-  R.iinliiiw  loiiti-,  avduiicl  tn  .\l,n;;(i-o, 
wIk'iv  .1  jniR'tiiiii  was  iiiadi.'  witli  tlu'  two 
pl;(itiii;raplKrs  on  tlitir  ritiini  iminRv 
Iruiii  Wairdii-W'luil  Ciaii. 


lunii-v  Sdiitli   fidiii    Mc'iitr 


IS  ah-'i 


1;^  riicoiiipaxlire  Kivir — i- 


\i.r\   1 1 


ttk- 


sliiaiii  is  calkd  a  ri\tr  in  the  far  wist — 
wliicli,  liki'  many  ntliir  strfains  wi'  Iia\c- 
ilcscrilii-d,  lias  worn  a  .'iin  luil,  in  uhicli 


it  is  iiDW  cm  t",  11  I'd  In   liisjli   wal 


il 


.1\- 


cliroinatir    i-nlurs,   \ii\'    liiantilnl  to  sii 


l'"ioni  til 

road 


I-  ociasional  visis  ovi-r  wliicli  ihi- 


passts 
had  ol  llor 
the    rathir 


virv  lovcK    \icws  arc  to  bi 


•Iv 


lak  on  till'   wist,  aiul 


>f   Tonjrne 


itli-    tli-\ati 


Misa  on  till-  lasi.      At  Dallas  till-  sccncrv 


ni'fonifs  inui-li  niori-  rn<j 
to  ( )iiia\',  and  Sihi-rlon, 


I'd, 
hii-l 


tlll'llCt' 

1  is  twi'iitv 


null's  Iroiii  Ironton,  thi-  laiidsi-apc  is 
tnnmltnoiis;  lor  nature  is  lii-ie  in  straniji- 
diraii.i,'i'iiK'iit,  not  to  sa\  chaotic  disiiKiii- 


ln'riiii'iit. 


It  appeared 


an  iiii])ossil)le 


feat 


to  connect  ()iira\'  and  Ironton  1)\'  a  staije- 
road. 


so  teinpestnoiis 
val,  rent    as  it  is  1 
spurred  h\  ainazini; 


>  <."ra,i;i,n'  is  the  iiiter- 

!>■  iiiij^hty  ch.isin  and 

]ieaks  of  stones  jiiled 


lip  into  \asl  ))yraniids  of  confusion.     Hut 


eiii,'iiieer;n<r    s 
and    11, )t 
tl 


kill 


iminated    even   here, 


a    w,ii;i)ii-roa(l 


cut 


iidiii'h   tins    chain    ol 


ibst 


icles, 


railroad    wa 


s    .success 


but    ; 
111  IK 


constructed    between    Iioiitonaud 
Silverlcni. 

The  approach  to  ( )uray  is  b\  .i  wax- 
impressively  iiia.i;iiiriie!it,  thioiurli  rills  in 


castellated  walls  that  are    licl 


1    witli  the 


r 

Ml: 


I,  ,1. 


i  11  .J 
■1  ^ 

;!  pi 

nil  I 

I..,! 


r.HIPPKTA  r Al.l.S.  IN  Rl  ACK  CA?50N  OF  GUNNISON  RIVER. 


'! 


122 

priiii.irv-  (.■(il(ii>,  ;mil  lolt\  ciinnj;!!  lu  ImiIu'  tlu  ii 
civsl^  in  ilk-  cU'iiiU.  Tluif  ^;i'is  ilk'  vi\i-i,  liUi' 
a  1k-1,Ui(I  l)iisiin>-i  in. Ill  li\  inj;  lo  n\irt,ikc-  liir.c, 
id.iriii^',  fraiiii);,  iMiiliiii^,  with  lianlK  i'iinii;^li 
sp.KV  luluriii  tin-  c»f.ir|>nknt->  I"  ailiir.l  it> 
])assai;i'.  Aloiii;,  and  l>\^■v  .iml  avonnd  llii-i 
iiiail-doliiil!,'  stuani  ilk'  lo.nl  winds,  np  and 
down,  ill  ,ind  "lit,  nntil  llic  iMiints  ol  tin.'  i.'"in- 
p.iss  Idsc  ilk-ir  licarinys,  and  swiiiy;  avuiiiid  in 
dislrat-linn 

()ni,i\  lii.'s  at  ]Hai-f  willi  ilk'  world,  in  a 
basin  wliosi'  >idcs  .[w  liUi-  a  ,L;i.iiU'>  inaudi- 
bowl,  (Mily  that  the  confiikiikait  is  li\  ,i  snci-is- 
sion  of  inoniit.iin  lanyis  pilint;  ii|i  luliind  lacli 
otiu-r  nnlil  ilk'  liii;lK-sl  ,iU,uii  an  allilndc  of 
H,-J'.\'>  iVft,  and  Ikdd  inTprtnal  cariii\.il  with 
tlie  snow-storm.  'Pliat  littk-  basin  si'ciiis  to  bo 
till.'  ]i.iint-pot  of  till-  Titans,  and  llic  inonnlains 
tlioir  ini.\iiii;-boards.  Ltttin^onr  si.L;lit  tra\t'l 
.slowly  ii]i  the  .so.niii),'  slo|ns,  (.-M'ry  slip  ol  the 
way  is  (mio  of  bi-.intv.  Clothi-d  willi  .1  liixnri- 
011s  growth  of  villow  .is])i-n,  the  lirowii  ol  oak, 
tlie  (k'lp  )4:rc.'iii  of  spna-i',  and  tin.-  silvir  sluiii 
of  nionntaiii  pine,  the  pii-tnrc  nfi.(ls  onI\  a 
frame  to  111, ikc  it  pirfici.  .\nd  tlieie  abow  is 
the  thiniL;  desired;  lor  where  the  timber  line 
ends,  the  llainiiii;  eolms  of  red,  orange,  ])nr|ile, 
jjray  anil  brown  stone  be;_;ins,  risinj^  ever  lii;,;her 
until  they  fade  au.i\  behind  the  mists  that 
jjatller  .diont  the  jie.iks. 

.\s  we  pioeeed  on  the  was  to  .Silverloii 
the  road  inelines  thron^li  fore.sts  whose  aiitumn 
tints  kee])  the  e\ e  daneiiitj  with  admiration, 
and  haviiiy;  descended  two  thoii-aiid  leet,  the 
month  of  Hear  Creek  is  re.iehed,  ^\  here  it  rolls 
aloiiti;  a  terrible  eataniet,  known  a>  Hear  Creek 
Cascade.  .\  little  further  on,  we  d.isli  mil 
upon  a  bridije  which  spans  a  diz/\  height,  for, 
there  below  lis,  the  rai^int,'  creek  plniii^es  o\er 
a  precipice  :.'7.'i  feet  hii^h,  and  is  da^lncl  into 


o 

Q 
< 
a: 

O 

_i 

o 

o 


< 

o 

H 
X 

o 


liH 


nil 


H 


If 

t  ■ 

M 

ii 

:i 


I -'I 

\.i|ii)r  u|i(iii  iIr'  links.  Ii  i.-  ,1  si.irtliiij,'  si^;lii 
ti)  In'liolil  till'  >iir;;iiiH  w.itrr>,  .mil  w.iti'll  llu- 
111. Ill  pliuii;!.' lli.il  t.illsiiiloa  r.iiililrnii  ,1-,  ,iiij.;r\ 
as  t'viT  wiu-lus  stntilKd  li.uuls  .ilimit. 

Tlkiici.'  onw.iiil  wi-  piii^m' our  iNi'itiiiv; 
ridf,  with  iiiouiil.iiiis  nii  i'IiIkt  siik',  liy  tlii' 
Ni'idk-s,  .Siili.iii  I'l-.iU,  silvi-r  iMsiMilts,  iiiuil 
siMiii  \M'  ri.Mi.li  till-  X'.ilky  i>f  till'  .\iiiiii.i  ami 
atv  |)n',-.ciulv  liniliil  iiiti)  tliu  wililh' wiird  .iiid 
awlullv  suMitiir  .\niin.is  C.irinii.  .\  \irv  siii;- 
m'stivc  iKillK'  w.is  yivtii  liy  tlii'  I'arlv  S]i.m- 
i.iiils  to  tills  stri.uii:  Uii)  <lf  lii>  .Viiiiii.is, 
sii^iiifyiii).;  till'  n:  1 1-  c/'  /(i.\/  s,ii//s,  fur  imlliinL; 
cuulil  lu'  iiinri.'  Knu-M>iiulv  siiiiilii.'r.  Tlii' 
cannii  ]iin])i.i-  i,  .iImiuI  rilliiii  iiiilis  Imii.;,  and 
lies  Inlwi'i'ii  kin'kwiHiil  and  llui.ui^;ii,  and  is 
a  clcava.iji.-  lli.il  siii.ir.ilis  ilie  S.in  Juan  and 


.\mi:rk'.\'s  \\()M)i;ri..\nus. 


E.XCW.ATIONS  111  tlie  (.Ml-l'S.  .M.-WCOS  CANON. 


in'INS  ()(:  CI.IIH    lAVHI.IINliS   IN    ,\UNCOS  i.A.nON. 


WEST  SIDB  OF   MARSHALL   PASS,  SHOWING  THE  WINDLNG   UHSCKNT  OF   THE   ROAD. 


il 

1 

,     1 

i 
1 
• 

i     1 

|!l 


■M- 


111      .|„ 

I'".:, 

il:.' 
H'l   .1 


I 


u.t 


"l 
li 

I 


i,H 


I 


126 

San  Miixnel  ranches.  The  walls 
arc  iierpciuliciilar,  and  tliL'  pas- 
sage so  narrow  vliat  tlie  sunli<jlit 
can  hardly  get  tliruni;li.  The 
railroad  n;ns  alonj;  the  hreast 
of  the  solid  roek  walls,  on  a 
lcd<;e  or  balconv  that  liad  to  be 
cnt  in  the  sheer  escarpment, 
l,,'iOO  fcit  above  the  river,  bnt 
the  top  of  the  frowninjj  enclos- 
ure is  still  ■'IKI  feet  hi.ijher. 
Sitting;  ;;t  the  car  window,  the 
traveler  Uioks  down  into  what 
appears  to  be  an  almost  bottom- 
less gulch,  and  sees  the  beating 
waters  swirling  in  ]io(ils,  and 
tossing  in  a  terrific  tunnilt  that 
tills  the  canon  with  deafening 
roar.  While  the  river  here  is 
a  snccession  of  cataracts,  there 
are  waterfalls  on  either  side, 
leaping  down  from  bordering 
cliffs  and  joining  hands  with 
the  impetno\is  river. 

A  few  miles  from  Los  Pinos 
Canon  and  Toltec  Clorge  is  the 
bustling  town  of  Dnrango, 
which  is  the  sujiply  dejiot  for 
the  San  Juan  mining  district. 
This  place  received  a  great  ini- 
jietus  by  the  reported  discovers' 
of  rich  placer  gold  mines  in 
south' astern  Utah,  in  Novem- 
ber of  1HJI2,  and-at  this  time  its 
future  appears  to  be  ver\  prom- 
ising. The  region  is  altogether 
one  of  extraordinary  interest 
alike  for  the  miner,  ttmrist  an  i 
relic-hunter,  for  thirty  niil..'s 
west  of  the  town   are  the 


AMERICA'S  WOXDKRLAXUS. 

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CALCAREOUS  CLIITS  OF  GRAND  RIVER. 


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AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


pictnrcsiiuc  ruins  oi  \crv  ancient  cliff-dwellers,  who,  in  the  early  centuries,  excavated  deej)  recesses  in  the  perpcndicnlar  walls  alonjj  the 
Rio  Mancos,  and  there  made  their  homes.  Ivvidcntly  they  were  of  the  sanie  race,  and  no  donht  were  contemporary  with  those  who  fled  front 
the  Spanish  persecutors  and  took  refn.ije  in  artiticial  caves  in  the  (Irand  Cafion  of  the  Colorado. 

Southwest  of  these  now  vacant  cave  dwellings,  in  the  northeast  corner  of  Arizona,  is  a  short  branch  01  the  San  Juan  River,  known 
as  the  Rio  de  ChelK  ,  which  runs  throu;.,'li  a  canon  celebrated  in  the  history  of  Indian  warf.ire  as  jiresentini;  the  most  serious  obstacles 
encountered  by  expeilitions  under  Colonel  .Sunnier  and  ('icneral  Cauby.  The  reijion,  and  jiarticularly  De  Chelly  Canon,  was  the  stronjjhold 
of  the  Nav.ijoe  Indians,  who  rendered  the  ilefde  almost  impregnable.  Time  and  aj;ain  efforts  weie  n'.ade  by  larjje  bodies  of  troops  to  force 
a  passajje,  Imt  as  often  they 
were  driven  back  bv  the 
Indians  hurlini;  >tones  down 
the  thousand  I'eet  of  perjieu- 
dicular  hei<,'ht.  The  rear 
was  likewise  protected  li\ 
remarkable  rus.;Ke<biess  of 
the  approacli.  and  an  army 
.sent  a.ijaiiist  them  was  tlius 
held  at  bay  b\'  the  Indians 
for  .several  months.  Kit 
Carson  was  finally  .>;i\en  a 
commi.ssiou  as  colonel  and 
sent  a.i;aiiist  the  defiant 
marauders  with  a  force  of 
fi\o  hundred  men.  I'lider- 
standinj;  alt  the  dilTicnlties 
of  the  situation,  he  so  dis- 
posed his  army  as  to  linld 
the  Indians  within  llieir 
lines  of  refujje,  and  clioos- 
iiifj  winter  as  the  best  time 
for  action,  laid  a  siejje  that 
effectually  cut  off  all  com- 
munication. .\id  from 
the  outside  beiiijj  thus  ])rc- 


PHANTOM  CURVE. 


vented,  and  all  supplies  shut  off,  the  \a.-ajoes  were  presciith  reduced  to  such  stniits  that  after  three  desperate  but  futile  efforts  to  escape, 
the  entire  band  surrendered. 

.■\fter  passinir  throii.y:li  ,\nimas  Cafion,  on  the  ea.stcrn  journey,  the  .scenery  continues  impressively  beautiful,  for  several  pellucid 
streams  are  cro.s.sed  at  points  where  they  have  cut  deep  furrows  in  the  earth,  and  eaten  their  way  through  opposing  mountains.  At  I};nacio 
we  tnet  with  the  first  considerable  number  of  Indians  seen  thus  far  during  our  trip.  This  place  is  the  headcpiarters  of  the  .Southern  Utes' 
reservation,  and  was  named  after  their  chief.  Twenty  miles  beyond  we  cross  the  Rio  I'iedra  and  enter  the  valley  01  the  San  Juan,  which  is 
followed  for  nearly  sixty  miles,  and  until  Navajo  is  reached,  where  another  small  band  of  miserable-looking  Indians  have  their  quarters. 


TRAIL  OVER  THE  SAN  JUAN  MOUNTAINS. 


CREVICE  CAf50N,  NEAR  OURAY. 


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I30 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


and  besiege  incoming  passenger  trains  with  iniportnnitics  that  travelers  ahnost  invariably  generonsly  respond  to.  Now  we  are  ninning 
along  the  borders  of  New  Mexico,  a  line  of  deniarkation  indicated  by  the  San  Juan  range  that  lies  north  of  us,  while  southward  stretches 
away  the  undulating  and  arid  plains.  At  Aniargo  we  are  met  by  another  band  of  Indians,  whose  sullen  countenances  and  bedraggled 
appearance  plainly  show  them  to  be  Apaches,  whose  numbers,  however,  are  now  so  reduced  that  the  murderous  raids  which  made  the  tribe 
celebrated  in  the  early  annals  of  the  far  west,  are  not  likely  to  be  repeated  again. 

We  cross  the  Conejos  range  at  Cnnibres,  at  an  elevation  of  10,(100  feet,  and  after  traversing  a  lowc:  range  of  the  San  Juan  we  again  strike 
the  Los  Pinos  River,  .  1,  taking  a  turn  around  Prospect  Peak,  come  in  view  of  Toltcc  C'.orge,  one  of  the  most  fearfully  grand  canons  in  the 
world.  The  mountain  is  pierced  by  a  tiinnel  near  its  summit,  which  is  approached  by  a  balcony  trestle,  on  which  the  cast-bound  train  stops 
several  minutes  to  permit  the  passen- 
gers to  gaze  into  the  dreadful  depths  of 
the  chasm  over  which  they  hang.  For 
it  must  be  understood  t'lat  the  road-bed 
is  built  here  upon  a  trestle  that  has 
all  its  fastenings  in  the  perpendicular 
walls,  and  without  any  support  be- 
neath, so  that  to  one  looking  from  the 
car  window  the  train  appears  to  be 
suspended  in  mid-air,  1,000  feet  above 
the  rolling  waters  below. 

The  gorge  is  1,l'O0  feet  deep, 
and  besides  being  narrow,  the  walls 
are  perpendicular,  so  that  daylight 
tarries  but  a  short  while  in  its  pro- 
found recesses.  .Xs  we  pass  the  Toltec 
Gorge,  Phantom  Curve  is  appoached, 
and  from  the  grandeur  and  awesome- 
ness  with  which  the  gieat  abyss  im- 
pressed us,  our  interest  is  quickened 
and  spell-bound  by  objects  that  at  once 
excite  wonder  and  curious  amazement. 
We  are  suddenly  introduced  to  forms 
more  strange  than  monstrous,  more 
remarkable  for  their  incougruitv  than 


ANTIU.OPE   PARK,   NEAR   TOLTEC  GORGE. 


significant  for  their  grandeur.  The  chisels  of  nature's  sculptors,  frost,  water,  storms,  ice  and  decay  have  wrought  many  astounding  things 
in  stone,  which  rival  in  grotesque  eccentricity  the  queer  figiircs  that  nr.dir  lanious  the  C.arden  of  the  (lods.  Passing  this  parade-ground  of 
nature's  idols,  we  strike  the  liig  Ibirn  Curve,  and  twi>t  like  a  coiUortiouist  in  making  a  devious  descent,  that  winds  and  winds  until  at  last 
we  reach  the  feet  of  the  Saugre  de  Cristo  range,  at  .\nlonito.  Thence  our  direction  was  due  north,  over  a  level  countrv,  until  we  reached 
Alamcsa,  where,  as  per  arrangement,  we  met  the  others  of  our  part\  du  their  return  from  Wagon-Wheel  Cap.  Here  we  received  reports 
of  the  trip  from  Pueblo,  and  tarried  a  while  to  write  up  our  journals,  p.ack  our  negatives,  and  prepare  for  the  journey  that  by  a  long  sweep 
was  to  take  us  to  the  lands  of  the  Pacific. 


DEER  PARK  CASCADE.  ANIMAS  CaNON. 


OURAY  AND  SILVERTON  STAGE-ROAD. 


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132 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDKRLANDS. 


The  tri])  sinitlnvaiil  from  I'luMo  possesses  conipanitively  little  interest  until  Cueliara  Junction  is  readied,  where  one  branch  of  the 
Denver  anil  RioCiiande  Ra.lmad  starts  directly  west,  while  the  other  contiinies  sonth  to  Trinidad,  and  there  forms  a  junction  with  the 
Atchison,  Tu])eka  and  Santa  l"e  Railriiad. 

At  Cnchara  the  scenery  chanj^es  Ironi  waste  ])lains  to  a  tiuuuhnary  landscape  similar  to  sections  which  we  have  just  described.  The 
road  follows  the  valley  of  Cnchara  for  a  distance  of  twenty  miles,  and  then  be^jins  a  rapid  ascent  towards  \'cta  Pass,  which  is,  in  some 
respects,  more  wonderful  than  even  Marshall  I'ass.  lu  one  ])lace  the  j;rade  is  ■JHi  feet  to  the  mile,  so  stee])  that  two  locomotives  are 
re(iuired  to  haul  even  li.i;ht  trains,  and  so  strpentine  that  to  passeui;ers  the  cars  ajijjcar  to  be  moving  in  a  circle.     When  the  summit  is 

reached,  an  altitude  of  IMOd  

feet  alicne  sea  level   has  been  '  '  ■  "'    ■  _^^  . 

gained,  and  there  is  a  pano- 
rama presented  that  it  m  eius 
almost  sacrilij;ion>  to  attempt 
to  describe.  A\\a\'  to  the 
south  rises  up,  like  monsters 
plucking  stars  from  the  sky, 
the  Spanish  Peaks,  whose 
frosted  heads  are  often  hidden 
bv  clouds  that  gather  about 
them;  towards  the  wot,  dim 
with  distance,  is  seen  the 
commanding  form  of  .Sierra 
Hlanca,  whose  crown  is  the 
\ery  heavens;  and  north- 
ward, La  \'eta  Mountain, 
stupendous  and  sublime, 
stands  like  a  grizzh-  sentinel, 
surveying  the  les>er  wonders 
of  nature  and  ]iroteeting 
them  against  tiie  tierce 
.storms  th.it  lieat  the  bronzed 
breasts  of  the  Kcjckies.  Mule- 
shoe  Curve,  over  which  we 
made  the  approach  up  Dump 
Mountain,  is  plainlv  visible,  '-^"^f-  BRENNAN,  IN  SOUTH  PARK,  NEAR  PLATTE  CaSoN. 

as  are  the  mnneious  tracks  that  gridiron  the  slopes,  and  the  waterfalls  tli.ii  ])lay  hide  and  seek  along  the  mountain  sides.  Looking  down 
we  see  the  fast-receding  banks  and  almost  i)erpendicular  cliffs,  and  the  giant  bowlders  tluit  have  been  hurled  from  the  summit  into  the 
abyssmal  depths  a  mile  below,  gathered  int(j  tkims  to  imijcde  the  flow  of  waters.  The  view  towards  the  east  is  uidjroken,  and  there 
spreading  out  like  the  la])  of  bounty,  we  watch  the  green  jirairie  running  away  from  the  mountain  ba.se  to  meet  the  liorizon. 

Crossing  La  \'cta's  lofty  pass,  the  descent  is  rapid  and  tortuous,  until  a  level  is  reached  in  the  San  Lnis  Park,  which  is  abloom 
with  the  glories  of  cidtivated   tields,  and  animate  with  grazing  herds.      This  great  park,   that  covers  an  a:ca  equal  to  the  State  of 


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CITY  OF  OURAY.  AND  OURAY  MOUNTAINS,  COLORADO. 


134 


AIMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


'I'i 


Connecticut,  was,  in  the  early  years  of  tlie  wovldV  life,  a  vast  inland  sea, 
though  its  elevation  is  now  uiurc  than  7,(i(H)  feet.  The  earth  has  absorbed 
nearly  all  its  waters,  tliouj;h  San  Luis  Lake  still  lies  near  its  center,  shin- 
ing like  a  sheet  of  silver,  and  is  fed  by  thirty  niduntain  streams.  Ml  around 
this  lake,  whose  length  is  sixty  miles,  is  a  waving  savanna  of  luxuriant 
grasses,  which  form  the  frame  of  as  pretty  a  i)ielure  as  the  ey;  of  man  ever 
wandered  Dver. 

As  we  proceed  westward  from  La  Veta  Pass,  the  landscape  becomes 
somewhat  tame,  though  when  we  reach  I'ort  Ciarland  the  grandest  view  is 
obtainable  of  Sierra  lilanca  Mountain,  whose  peak  is  at  an  elevation  of 
14,riO()  feet,  the  secinul  highest  in  America.  We  cross  San  Luis  I'ark,  and 
having  again  reached  Alamosa,  continue  on  towards  \Vagou-\\  heel  dap,  by 
way  of  the  picturesque  valley  of  the  Rio  (Irande  del  Xorte.  Though 
while  en  route  we  pass  through  no  wonderful  canons,  the  way  is  full  of 
interest  and  beautiful  scener>'.  The  river,  in  places,  spreads  out  into  a 
noiseless  and  sluggish  stream,  while  again  it  is  contracted  by  narrow  walls 
into  cascades  and  roaring  waterfalls  of  exceeding  niagnificeuce.  Ks])eciaily 
is  this  true  when  we  draw  near  to  Wagon-Wheel  (lap,  where  the  walls  arc 
not  onlv  narrow,  but  rise  into  palisades  of  great  height  aiul  beauty,  and  at 
one  place,  for  the  distance  of  half  a  mile,  there  are  cliffs  that  soar  .skyward 
and  lean  towards  the  ri\er,  making  a  rocky  canopy  above  the  roadway  that 
hugs  the  rushing  stream. 

Wf  are  now  in  the  famous  Creede  mining  region,  where,  besides 
silver  to  lure  the  avaricious  seeker  of  riches,  there  is  nmch  to  excite  the 
admiration  of  the  tourist  and  lover  of  nature.  La  (5orita  Mountains  lie 
towards  the  north  in  vast  banks  ol  haze,  and  the  .southern  horizon  is  broken 
by  the  San  Juan  range.  Here,  also,  is  a  region  of  surprising  springs,  where 
boiling-hot  and  ice-cold  waters  gush  out  of  neighboring  hills,  and  in  places 
actually  strike  hands  to  neutralize  each  other.  Creede,  which  is  ten  miles 
from  Wagon-Wheel  Ciap,  is  a  typical  mining  camp,  full  of  excitement 
and  all  the  concomitants  of  a  new  and  rich  discovery,  though  it  is 
rapidly  acquiring  civilized  ways.  Willow  Clulch  is  the  scene  of  greatest 
activity,  and  there  is  now  to  be  obtained,  for  a  fair  eqiiivalent,  evervthing 
from  bad  fighting  whiskey  to  a  spring  bed,  though  the  latter  is  still  a  scarce 
lu.xurj-,  particularly  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Willow  Ciulcli. 

Alter  our  meeting  and  snort  .stay  at  .Mamosa,  our  party  again  divided, 
two  of  our  photographers  going  south  from  that  point,  over  the  New  Mexico 
extension  of  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad,  to  Santa  Fe,  while  the 
other  proceeded  east  to  Cuchara  Junction,  thence  .south  to  Trinidad,  and 
from  that  place  he  went  by  way  of  the  Atchison,  Topeka  and  Santa  Fe 


MAIDEN  HAIR  FALLS,  NEAR  DUMP  MOUNTAIN. 


» 


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Railroad,  to  S.mta  I'l',  wlicti'  o\ir  party 
a^aiii  miiu-d. 

The  nmto  directly  south  fnmi  Ala- 
mosa is  across  a  wiU-watcri'd  couiury,  liiit 
there  is  luithiut;  ot  |)anieular  interest  in 
the  way  of  scenery  until  the  town  of 
Barranca  is  re.iclied,  wlu're  the  road  strikes 
tlic  Rio  Cirandc.  Onl  of  a  level  ulain  the 
train  now  dashes  into  <lee|>  t^orj^es,  and 
winds  alony;  the  banks  of  a  stream  that  is 
justly  celebrated  for  the  wild  and  rnij^cd 
j)as;eantr\'  of  mo\intains  which  it  pierces. 
Comanche  Canon  bursts  into  \iew,  a  .glori- 
ous revelation  of  chaos,  whose  clilfs  of 
marl  and  basaltic  rock  have  tried  in  vain 
to  arrest  the  eneryx  and  daunt  the  skill  of 
civil  engineers.  As  a  conse(|uence,  their 
sides  are  rtnt  and  bored  into  cuts  and  tun- 
nels, until  the  nuniulainsof  stone  are  made 
to  acknowledj;e  man's  soverei<jnt\'. 

I'ifteen  miles  south  of  liarranca  is 
Kspanola,  a  quaint  old  .Spanish  town, 
whose  chief  interest,  however,  lies  in  the 
fact  that  it  is  tlie  nearest  rail  m  '.  point  to 
some  of  the  most  interestinv  ineblos  and 
cliff  ruins  that  are  to  be  li.uud  in  New 
Mexico.  The  Indi.m  adobes  in  this 
vicinity,  which  claim  the  lari^est  attention 
of  the  anthropolo.i^isl,  are  those  of  San 
Juan,  Santa  Clara  and  San  Idelfonso,  all 
situated  within  three  or  four  miles  of 
Kspanola.  At  vSanta  Clara  are  also  the 
ruins  of  cliff  dwellin,L;s,  relics  of  the  habita- 
tions of  a  race  that  exists  no  Ioniser,  .save 
ill  uncertain  traditions. 

The  little  knowlediie  that  we  have 
respecting;  these  ancient.  ])eople  is  derived 
from  the  investijjations  of  the  late  James 
Stevenson,  chief  of  the  Havden  Survey, 
who  explored  the  cliff  and  cave  dwellings 


AMIvRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


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CLIFF  DWELLINGS  IN  THE  RIO  MANGOS  CAfJON. 


RUINS  OH  Cl.ll-I-  DWELLERS  IN  MANGOS  CAf^lON,  COLORADO. 


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138 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDKRT.ANDS. 


of  Ari/oiKi  ^mil  N\\v  Mtxico.  His  lilxirs  wiTc  rcwardi'il  ulso  by  the  discovery  of  two  |)i'rfcit  ski'k-tons,  in  tlii'  Canon  di-  Clidty,  wliich 
lirovid  to  111'  tliost.'  of  pu  lii.st<i!ie-  iiiii.iliii.mts.  He  also,  liy  patii-nt  study,  ohtaini-d  a  viry  tlioroiiuli  knowkdni'  of  tlie  religions  niytliolo>;y 
of  the  Zuiiis,  and  secured  a  complete  collection  of  their  fetich-j;ods,  l)esi<les  faniiliari/inj;  himself  with  tile  manners  and  i)eliefs  of  the 
N'avajoes  and  Mo(|uis.  We  liolil  liim  in  remeniliraiKc  foi  "'is  pioneer  as  well  as  scientilic  services,  It  was  SteveiiMin  tliat  made  the  first 
survey  of  Yellowstone  I'ark,  who  traced  the  Columliia  and  Sn..!-  Rivers  to  their  sources,  and  who  was  the  fust  white  man  to  climli  the 
Oreat  Tetons,  in  \V\oiuin.i;,  and  reach  the  Indians'  sacred  altar,  which  has  liccii  kepi  inviolate  for  centuries. 

The  six  ancieut  jiuclilos,  which  are  still  inhabited  by  Indians,  were  discovered  by  the  .Spaniards  only  forty-ei^'lit  years  after  Columbus 
first  landed  on  San  Sal\-.ulor,  and  they 
are  thus  entitled  to  rank  anions;  the 
earliest  discoveries  of  this  character 
ever  made.  In  the  ncii;hborin>;  cliffs 
are  numerous  c.ive  dwelliuys  e(|ually 
prehistoric  in  their  ori),'in,  but  wliich 
Mr.  vSteveuson  explored  with  the 
most  valuable  results,  enabliu),'  him  to 
determine  the  habits  and  jieculiarities 
of  these  archaic  people.  ( >n  the  west 
side  of  the  ro.ul,  and  liouudcd  by 
Calicnte  Creek,  is  the  black  Mesa,  a 
curious  elevation  that  nii;,'ht  once  have 
been  an  island  in  the  ocean  that 
covered  this  re.i,'ion  when  the  world 
was  youiij;.  Towards  the  east,  and 
iu  bold  \  icw,  is  the  Taos  rauj^'c,  which 
merj^es  into  the  Culebra  rauj;e  further 
north,  and  thence  into  the  Sanjjre  de 
Cristo.  lietween  llie  railroad  and  the 
Taos  Mountain,  lies  the  town  of  Taos, 
in  a  beautiful  valley,  watered  by 
branches  of  the  Rio  (iraiide.  It  is  a 
quaint  old  place,  composed  chiel'iy  of 
two  jjreal  adobe  buildin).js  five  stories 
hij^h,  surrounded  l)y  ])rosperons 
ranches   and  crumbling  pueblos,  and 


•WEAPONS  AM)  iirnNsii.s  OP  iiu:  (.1.11  i--1)Weli.i;rs. 


is  celebrated  as  havinj,^  been  the  home  of  Kit  Carson,  and  the  place  where  his  body  rcpo.scs.  Mis  j,>rave  is  marked  by  an  imposing;  monu- 
ment erected  to  his  memory,  as  a  mark  of  j,'ratitude  for  his  intrei)id  services,  by  citizens  of  New  Mexico.  The  i)lace  is  accordin>;ly 
somethinjf  of  a  shrine,  but  is  not  nmch  visited,  because  it  is  about  twenty-five  miles  from  the  railroad,  except  on  the  .'i'lth  of  September  of 
each  year,  when  it  is  the  scene  of  a  !,'reat  festival,  at  which  thousands  of  people  gather.  A  more  beautiful  and  fertile  spot,  however,  is  not 
to  be  found  anywhere  in  the  west. 

Comaucbe  Canon  is  entered  just  above  Kmbudo,  by  way  of  which  the  Denver  and  Rio  Grande  Railroad  enters  the  Rio  Grande 


*.* 


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LAKE  SAN  CRISTOVAL,  IN  THE  LAP  OF  OURAY  MOUNTAINS,  COLORADO. 


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J    . 


140 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


Valley.     Tlie  gortje  is  so  niRfjcd  tliat  it  was  necessary  to  make  a  j;reat  many  deep  cnts  in  the  walls  of  marl  and  basalt,  so  tliat  the  way 
throusjli  the  canon  is  more  pictnresijue  by  reason  of  the  I'uj^ineer's  work  than  n.itnre  desij^ned  it. 

Nearly  midway  between  the  pneblo  rnif.s  jnst  miiitioned  and  the  city  of  Santa  I'e,  alonfjf  the  Rio  (Grande,  is  the  Cafiou  Diabolo,  a 
chasm  that  is  not  strikin,i;ly  deep,  but  sniricieiith-  weird  to  justify  the  Satanic  appellation.  Hij,'h  \\p  in  the  walls,  parlicnlarly  near 
Espanola,  are  relics  of  a  \anished  race,  in  ihe  form  of  excavations  which  once  ser\ed  as  habitatiotis,  thonj,;h  evidently  they  were  difficidt  of 
access.  Tlie  appearance  of  these  rock  jierforations  are  very  similar  to  those  on  the  Rio  .Mancos,  and  in  the  canon  cliffs  of  the  Colorado;  so 
nearly  identical,  in  fact,  that  Stc\enson  expresses  the  belief  that  they  were  m.idc  by  members  of  the  s.inie  race,  who  took  r"fnj;e  in  these 
caves  when  dri  >on  from  tiuir  pneblos.  At  Santa  Ke,  a  short  stop  was  made  to  aw. lit  the  |ihoto.i;rapher  who  had  passed  aronnd  by  Trinidad. 
The  trip  which  he  had  made  was  in 
everv  respect  as  intercstini;  as  liial 
which  we  had  taken  over  the  direct 
sinithern  roiuc.  I'pon  jiassinij  beyond 
the  San.sjre  ('  Jristo  r.ini.,'e  ea-twanl, 
the  scenery  ^^rows  tamely  monotonons 
for  a  time,  for  the  l.uulsc,i]ie  is  tin-- 
souR-ly  le\el.  Hut  before  reachini; 
Trinidad,  another  ai^reeably  >nr|)risini; 
chan;4e  occurs,  as  tiic  K.iton  ran^e 
breaks  into  \iev,-,  ami  presents  a 
kaleidoscopic  variety  oi  be;!Uliful 
scenes.  Tri'.iid.id  lies  a^  the  foot  of 
this  ran;4e,  and  ihou.ijh  it  may  not  be 
described  .is  a  city  "1  ,i;ri.-al  .'•chitectiir.il 
mai;nilicence,  certain  it  is  tluit  few 
])'.aces  can  boast  of  ure.Uer  intenst  to 
the  tourist.  It  was,  lonj;  aj;o,  the 
iiiost  important  point  on  the  old  Santa 
l"e  trail,  and  its  ancient  adobe  houses 
v.'cre  objects  of  endearnRut  to  the  hearts 
of  freii,duers,  because  they  offered  both 
refujj;e  and  refreshment  after  the  jurils 
of  a  danj^erons  journey.  ThoniLih  a 
threat  chanj^je  has  t.-ken  pl.ice  since  the 
railro.id  reached  the  town,  it  is  still  a  typical  Mexican  city,  which  e\en  the  electric  li^dit  cannot  convert.  Passinj^  over  the  border  into 
New  Mexico,  the  scenery  is  varied  and  pleasinj.,',  but  never  i,rrand.  In>.tead  of  an  arid  region,  however,  the  couiUry  is  diversified,  for  all  of 
the  nortlicastern  region  is  al)nndamly  watered  by  creeks  flowinjj;  towards  the  .southeast,  with  occasional  rivers,  like  the  Canadian, 
Cimarron  and  I'ecos,  iutersectinj;  the  railroad.  On  both  sides  of  the  road  there  are  nunienms  kuolK,  called  mesas,  and  craters  lonjj 
since  burned  out.  The  ascent  of  Raton  Pass,  sometimes  called  the  "Devil's  Way,"  affords  many  exqni^i'c  views,  of  which  the  Spanish 
Peaks,  one  h.iudred  miles  to  the  north,  are  chief,  f.)r  the  atmosphere  is  so  clear  ,unl  rare  that  they  appear  as  distinct  as  thouKh  the  distance 
were  scarcely  one-fourth  so  great.     Upon  gaiuiny;  an  altitude  of  7,700  feet,  the  road  enters  u  tunnel  on  the  Raton  Crest,  and  after  a 


THi;   (ilMVl;  Ol-    Kir  CM.'SdN,    AT   TAOS. 


111 


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111 
I 


I 


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•    lb 
.11  I 


142 


AMKRICA'S  WONDKRLANDvS. 


lialf-iiiilc  run  ciiicrsi'!;  on  llic  New  Mexico  side  where  llic  snnli,ulil  appears  to  lie  intensified  and  the  wanntli  of  perpetual  suiiniicr  holds 
sway.  The  next  eonsideralile  town  reaehed  after  lcavin,u;  Trinidad  is  Las  Ve^as,  whieh  reposes  on  a  braneh  of  the  I'eeos,  the  center  of  a 
great  many  sheep  ranehes,  and  it  is  wool  that  ijives  it  ehief  iniportanee.  vSix  miles  north  of  the  ]daee  is  I.as  Vef,'as  Hot  Springs,  a 
sanitarium  of  mnch  note,  loe'.ted  in  a  re.^ion  of  eonsiderable  heanty.  They  are  at  the  mouth  of  a  small  canon  whieh  leads  up  to  the 
Spanish  Ranse,  and  thence  joins  the  Rocky  Mountains;  the  waters  ran,u;e  in  temjierature  from  hoilin;;  hot  to  almost  freeziu;,'  cold. 

At  a  station  called  L.imv,  there  is  a  liraneh  of  the  .\tcliison,  Topeka  and  .Santa  l'"e  Railroad,  leadin<;  north  eighteen  miles,  to  the 
ancient  and  interestiuij  city  of  Sant.i  I'e,  celebrated  in  .Vmerieau  history  as  iK-iu.y;  the  second  oldest  town  in  the  ruited  .States.  The  place 
contains  much  to  entertain  searchers  after  relics  of  the  past,  and  here  we  find  the  links  that  hind  the  old  Spanish  invaders  with  the  civiliza- 
tion of  to-day.      Settled  by  Catholics,  it  still  retains  the  characteristics  impressed  upon  it  bv  the  l''r.uiciscan  fathers,  anil  remains  true  to  the 

faith  in  which  it  was  first  baptized.      It  is 

the  seat  of  the  archiepiscol>al  diocese,  and 

the  Cathedral   nf    .S.in    b'r.inci^co   is  the 

larijest   church   edilioe  in  the   territor\-,  as 

well  as  the  oldi--t,  the  oiiijin.d  jiart,  which 

still   renuiins,  h.iviui;    been    Iniilt    as   e.nly 

as   \i\-2->. 

Old  as  the  town   is,  .S.iuta    l"e  is  the 

I'lKcuix  that  rose  from  one  that  w.is  wry 

umeh   more   ancient,  for   the   site   w,is,   in 

the  a.L;es  that  are  very  remote,  occu])ied  by 

an  Indian  ])neblo,  the  ruins  of  which  are  still 

to  be  seen   in  what  is  known  as  the   "  I  )ld 

Home.'      Unt  the  most  curious  and  attract- 

i\e  object  witlnn  the  cit\  is  the  (lovernor's 

I'ala -e,   a    lonj;,   Inw    buiUlini;    erected    in 

l.V.i.s,  a  snnuuarv  histor\-  of  which   is  thus 

presented  bv  (icivernur  I'rince: 

"Without  dispara.!.;in,i;    the    imjxir- 

tance  nf    any    of   the    cherished   historical 

localities  of  the  b;a--t,  it  uia\'  be  trnlhlullv 

said  that  this  ancient   |ial,ice  surp.isses,  in 

historic  interest  .and  value,  anv  other  place 


CAVE   r)\VEI,l-INi;S  in  ihi-  CANON   liH  r.Hf-;i.l.Y. 


A  \n.\M:  or  thk  c;avh-uwhi.li:Rs. 


or  object  in  the  fnited  States,  It  antedates  the  settlement  of  Jamestown  bv  nine  \ears,  and  that  of  Plymouth  by  twenty-two,  and  has 
.stood  duriu};  the  -".'-  years  since  its  erection,  not  as  a  cold  rock  or  ninnnmeut,  with  no  el.iiui  upon  the  iiUerest  of  humanity  except  the  bare 
fact  of  its  continued  existence,  but  as  the  liviuj;  center  of  e\er\thinj;  "f  historic  importance  in  the  .Southwest.  Thronj^h  all  that  lonjj 
period,  whether  under  Spanish,  Pueblo,  Mexican,  or  .\merican  control,  it  has  been  the  seat  of  ]iower  and  authority.  Whether  the  ruler 
wa.s  called  viceroy,  caplain-ijeneral,  political  chief,  de|)artmeut  commander,  or  jjovernor,  and  whether  he  presided  over  a  kiuj,;dom,  a 
province,  a  deiiartmeut,  or  a  territor\ ,  this  has  been  his  olFieial  residence.  I'rom  hereOfuite  st.iited,  in  I.')'.'!*,  on  his  adventurous  expedition 
to  the  Eastern  plains;  here,  seven  years  later,  MtlO  Indians  came  from  far-off  Onivira  to  ask  aid  in  their  war  with  the  Axtaos;  from  here,  iu 
1618,  Vincente  de  Salivar  set  forth  to  the  Moqui  country,  only  to  be  turned  back  by  rumors  of  the  giants  to  be  encountered;  and  from  here 


I. A  VETA  PASS,  COLORADO. 


i'^» 


1  J 


ij. 


144 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


Penalosa  and  liis  brilliant  troop  started,  on  the  tith  of  Marcli,  liiiiS,  on  their  niarvelons  expedition  to  the  Missonri;  in  one  of  its  stronff-rootns 
the  connnissar\ -jiciicral  of  tlie  IiU|iiisition  was  imprisoned  a  lew  years  later  by  the  saiiie  Penalosa;  within  its  walls,  fortified  as  for  a  siege, 
the  bravest  of  the  Spaniards  were  massed  in  the  revolntion  of  U!M(i;  here,  on  the  ll'tli  of  August  of  that  year,  was  given  the  order  to  execute 
forty-se\en  Pueblo  prisoners,  in  the  plaza  which  faces  the  building;  here,  but  a  day  later,  »vas  the  sad  war-council  held  which  determined 
on  the  evacuation  of  tbi^  city;  here  was  the  scene  of  trinin])li  of  the  Pueblo  chieftains  as  they  ordered  the  destruction  of  the  Spanish  archives 
and  the  church  ornaments  in  one  gra;ul  conflagraticui;  here  De  \"arga.'-,  on  September  II,  Iti'.t'J,  after  the  eleven  hours'  combat  of  the 
preceding  day,  ga\e  thanks  to  the  \'irgin  Mary,  to  whose  aid  he  attributed  his  triumphant  capture  of  the  city;  here,  more  than  a  century 
later,  on  March  ;!,  ISilT,  LieiUcuaut 
Pike  was  brought  before  dovernor 
Alencaslcr  as  an  invader  of  Spanish 
soil;  here,  in  \><i2,  the  Mexican 
standard,  with  its  eagle  and  cactus, 
was  raised  in  token  that  New  Mexico 
was  no  longer  a  depeudency  of  Spain; 
from  here,  on  the  litli  of  August, 
ls;')T,  Cioveruiu'  Perez  started  to  sul)- 
duc  til'."  insurrection  in  the  north, 
oidy  to  ret\irn  two  days  later  and  to 
meet  his  death  on  the  IHh,  near  Ag\ia 
Fria;  here,  on  the  sueeeeiling  dav, 
Jose  (lonzales,  a  Pueblo  Indian  of 
Taos,  was  installed  as  ("lovernor  of 
Xew  Mexico,  soon  after  to  be  executed 
bv  order  of  Arniiic;  here,  in  the  prin- 
cipal reception-room,  on  August  1-, 
1>>[I>,  Captain  Cooke,  the  American 
envoy,  was  received  l)y  (lovernor 
Armijo  au<l  sent  back  with  a  message 
of  defiance;  and  here,  five  days  later, 
General  Kearney  fornialh  took  ])os- 
session  of  the  cit\  ,  and  sleiH,  after  hi- 
long  and  weary  march,  on  the  carpited 
earthen  floor  of  the  ])alace." 

Santa  I'e  now  has  many  things  that  belong  to  the  present  age:  .street  cars,  electric  lights,  etc.,  but  .she  is,  nevertheless,  .still  a  place  of 
adobe  houses,  before  which  there  is  ever  a  varied  commingling  of  .\niericans,  .Mexicans  and  Iu<liaus.  She  is  also  the  center  of  archicologi.al 
interest,  for  besides  the  ancient  objects  which  are  to  be  found  within  her  urban  limits,  there  are  villages  near-by  which  present  all  the 
aspects  of  the  aborigiues,  iiraelically  .is  they  appeared  to  Cortes  and  Coronado.  These  adobe  places  and  their  inhabitants  are  called  pueblos, 
because  that  is  the  old  Indian  name  signifying  /,i:,i/.  The  pueblos  in  .New  Mexico  are  nineteen  in  number,  and  while  varying  in  size,  they 
are  very  similar  in  apjiearance,  showing,  as  they  do,  no  variation  of  architecture.  The  houses  were  built  to  accommodate  from  one  hundred 
to  several  hundred  persons,  as  the  Pueblo  Indians  were  communistic  in  their  uiauner  of  living.    Instead  of  being  one  or  two-story  structures 


ARA\DONI-:i)  CWi;   HABITATIONS  OF  THE   Cl.irP-IAVHLI.EHS,    \\i\U   i;si'ANOI.A. 


WAGON-WHEEL   GAP. 


1 

■ 

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1  ■■ 

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1     : 

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■  1 

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1  ii 

i  '1 

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'tl; 


•'■•■i 


Si  ! 


146 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


like  the  present  style  of  Mcxii\iti  and  tlio  old  Spanish  adobes,  the  houses  were  built  one  upon  another,  in  a  succession  of  terraces,  sometimes 
five  or  more  in  number,  the  npi>er  slorics  bciu),'  aceessible  only  by  means  of  ladders.  The  most  noted  of  these  pueblos  arc  Taos,  I,aj;nna, 
.\eoma,  Santa  Clara,  Ztini  an.i  .Santo  I)oniiiii;i).  Allnuiiunine  was  also  oritjinally  an  Indian  pueblo,  built  u]>ou  a  slight  elevation  of  rock, 
and  the  ])lace  still  contains  several  clusitrs  of  sipuire,  llal-roofcd  adobe  houses,  arrani;ed  in  terrai'i---,  as  before  described.  The  walls  of  these 
strange  dwilliniis  are  very  thick,  and  l!ie  interior  is  >;ained,  not  tliron.t;h  doors,  but  by  entrance-ways  cut  in  the  roof,  which  is  reached 
oul\-  by  ladders.  The  I'uvblo 
Indians  have  been  pronounceil 
by  many  ethnolo>;ists  to  be  the 
oldest  race  now  livin.y  on  the 
continent,  tliou,i;h  many  mliers 
rei^ard  tliem  .is  bein;^  tlie  de- 
soendanls  of  the  .\/U-cs,  whose 
ancient  kins^doni  cil  Cilmla 
extended  from  Cojur.ulo  and 
Utah  on  the  north,  in  Central 
America  nn  the  ;-niuli.  'Plu' 
capital  of  this  extinct  enipirc  is 
snpiio>ed  to  lia\e  been  situated 
in  IViial  ciiinil)-,  Arizona,  the 
rnins  of  which  are  traceable 
alon.y;  the  Ciila  Rtwr,  in  wli.il 
is  known  as  till-  C  isa  ('■rando. 
Rem.irk.ilile  >lorii.s  have  In-iii 
told  of  the  relics  of  this  ruined 
city,  eiuhusi.ists  often  (Ksrrib- 
iniL,'  them  as  eipial  in  i^'randeur 
to  the  prostrate  columns  .md 
mij^fhty  arch\va\s  that  speak  in 
imperishable  stone  of  the  mai;- 
nilicence  of  ancient  I\!.;\  ptian 
cities.  The  .Monteznmas  were 
sujiposed  to  have  held  their 
court  in  the  splenilid  stone  pal- 
aces whose  relics  lie  scattered 
thronijh  the  Casa  (iran<les.  and 
whose    carvinijs    and   hier..-  SPANISH   PKAKS,  VUOW   IAS  VHI.AS,   NBV   MEXICO. 

glyphics  seem  to  attest  the  deiiarted  i^lory  of  a  once  mii,dity  peojde.  These  famous  ruins  are  twelve  miles  north  of  I'lorence,  a  station  on 
the  Southern  I'.icific.  .md  ate  in  a  rc^'ion  of  <;reat  i)irtiiies(|ueness,  which  -s  traversed  by  a  fjood  wa^on-road  rnnnin.s,'  alonjr  the  C.ila  Ri\er. 
The  route  is  tliioui^h  an  arid  plain,  in  which  the  only  vei^'.tr.tion  is  ines(|uite  and  cactus,  but  the  i)arehed  de.sert  is  v;racehillv  confined  by  a 
beautiful  and  opalescent  ranj^e  of  mountains,  while  overhead  is  a  .sapphirine  .sky  more  brilliant  than  ever  hnug  over  Italy.     The  river 


;,.      <»»1W- 


m^ 


LOS  PINOS  VALLEY.  LOOKING  WEST. 


Ill 


M 


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11 


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1  k 


H 


ai 


148 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


niarjjiii  is  like  a  Muc  wave,  colored  as  it  is  by  tlic  tossiiit;  heads  of  wild  lilac  flowers,  wliicli  find  protection  from  tlic  Ijcatinp  sun  under  tlic 
wavin-,'  branches  of  banks  of  willows  that  stoop  low  to  drink  from  the  river.  There,  under  the  shadows  of  the  Tucson  Mountains  and  the 
Sierra  Catarina  ran.i,'e,  are  the  colossal  ruins  of  the  Casa  Ciraiules.  The  buildings,  of  which  confused  heajis  are  all  that  now  remain,  were 
of  irre<,ndar  st\Ie,  but  of  some  architectural  pretension,  for  the  walls  were  c(Uistructcd  of  coi!.-rete,  moulded  into  blocks  nearly  three  feet 
square.  The  principal  structure,  which  has  loui,'  been  called  Moute/.iuiui's  Palace,  was  about  sixty  feet  lonjr  by  fifty  i)road,  and  .stood  five 
stories,  or  forty  feet  hi;.;li.  I'or  windows  there  was  a  s(|U,ire  aperture  over  each  door,  wholly  iusuflicient  for  either  lijjht  or  ventilation, 
thoujjh  the  ancient  Indians  veie  not  partial  to  either,  apparently  jirefcrring  darkness;  and  livinj,'  in  the  closest  coiiiinunal  .state,  they 
ajiprcciated  fresh  air  like  they 
did  the  slorui  and  culd,  only 
when  it  was  on  the  outside. 

(  )ccasional  pieces  of 
copjier  are  found  in  llu-  Casa 
drandcs  ruins,  lnU  no  iron,  and 
the  cutting-  instnnncnts  of  the 
oriffinal  occupants  were  made 
of  ol)sidian,  as  were  their 
arrows.  l'otter\'  still  strews 
the  nmnnd  about,  Imt  there  are 
no  evidences  to  support  the  old 
leijeuds  oi  maufuificence  with 
which  early  travelers  invested 
the  so-called  palace,  lint  there 
are  plainly  to  be  seen  ruins 
of  a  }j;reat  w.ill  that  otn-e  en- 
closed the  city,  on  which  win- 
sentinel  towers  risini;  several 
feet  above  llie  main  v.all,  thus 
provinp;  tint  this  was  not  en- 
tirely a  land  ot  peace,  nor  do 
appearances  indicate  that  it 
was  one  of  ])lenty.  The 
.Vpaches,  no  doubt,  harried  the 
less  war-like  Monni,  who  were 
at  last   drnen   sonthward,  and  "E^'^^-^^  °VRNS,  USED  I'l^lNCIPAl  1  Y   BY  THE  PUBRI.O  INI^IANS. 

left  ruins  of  similar  cities  ahjnj,'  their  jijradual  retreat  from  Utah  to  Mcrnco.     Professor  A.  L.  Meister,  the  antiquarian,  who  has  made  a  long 
and  patient  in\esti.i,'atiiin  of  the  pueblo  ruins  in  southwest  New  Mexico,  thus  writes  of  his  discoveries: 

"  W'i'.hin  a  radius  of  five  miles  of  St.  Joseph,  New  Mexico,  I  have  discovered  several  hundred  ruins  of  the  habitations  of  prehistoric 
man.  In  tlie^c  rnins — the  walls  of  which  arc  built  of  nudrcssed  .stone  and  cement — are  found  the  remains  of  hnjjc  cisterns;  walls  of  fortifi- 
cation; queer  implements  of  bone  and  stone;  beaiuifuUy  designed,  carved  or  painted  pottery,  together  with  odd  and  artistic  pictures,  characters 
and  symbols  cut  upon  large  rocks  in  canons  near,  and  with  such  nicety  of  taste  as  serve  to  strike  the  beholder  with  wonder  and  admiration. 


ADOBE  VlLl-ACE  OF  PUEBl.O  INDIANS,  NEW  MEXICO 


III) 


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150 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


"The  ruins  are  generally  founil  on  liigh  Rrontul,  and  are  composed  of  from  two  to  several  hundred  rooms,  averaRinp  alwit  eight  by 
ten  feet,  and  six  to  ciKht  feet  in  lieiuht.  In  some  cases  tlic  huildinjfs  have  been  two  stories  liinb.  There  lias  been  a  side  entrance  to  nil 
of  these  rooms,  but  these  o|K'uiiit;s,  fiom  some  cause,  have  been  carefully  walled  u]). 

"These  people  were  iar.Ljer  than  those  of  to-day,  some  of  tluni  beiuK  f\iily  eifjlit  feet  liiKh.  I  am  led  to  believe  their  avi  lane  heipht 
was  not  less  than  seven  feet.  Tluy  buried  their  dead  in  the  yiduud  doors  of  their  rooms,  with  the  heads  towards  the  east,  and,  as  a  rule, 
their  pottery,  trinkets  and  personal  ornaments  with  tluni.  In  excavating  these  niius,  one  is  coustautly  impressed  with  one  iiaraniouiit 
wander — their  great  age.  Hukc  pine  trees,  liiree  and  four  feet  in  diameter  and  lno  feet  liiKh,  llourish  upon  the  walls  and  in  the  rooms  of 
these  habitations  of  forgotten 
man.  The  intillins,'  of  drift  and 
the  increase  of  surface,  caused 
by  vegetable  growth  and  decay, 
is  very  slow,  and  has  been  esti- 
mated by  some  geologists  to 
average  about  one  foot  in  eighty 
years.  Admitting  this  to  be  near 
the  truth,  our  sur])rise  knows 
no  bounds  when,  on  sinking 
directly  under  tliese  giant  trees, 
we  pass  through  fmm  six  to  ten 
feet  of  vegetable  mold,  then  en- 
counter from  one  to  three  feet  of 
clean-washed  sand  and  gravel, 
then  a  solid  earlhcu  floor  cov- 
ered with  ashes,  charcoal,  bones 
and  fragments  of  broken  pot- 
ter)-. Yet  still  below  this  are 
the  skeletons  of  human  beings, 
surrounded  by  their  pottery, 
weapons  and  ornaments  of 
stone,  bone  and  copper.  My 
own  opinion  is  that  these  people 
were  either  Aztecs  or  Tolteos. 
They  were  sun-worshipers  and 

well  advanced  in  carving,  painting,  building,  weaving  and  agriculture.     They  flourished  many  centuries  in  Colorado,  Arizona,  New  Mexico, 
Mexico,  Central  and  South  .Vmerica,  and  were  exterminated  either  by  famine,  flood,  disease  or  volcanic  action  at  least  1,0(10  years  ago. 

"In  the  eastern  part  of  this  (Socorro)  county  are  the  ruins  of  an  immense  city  known  as  the  Grande  Quivero,  covering  two  by  two 
and  one-half  miles  sfpiare.  Its  walls  are,  in  some  places,  eight  feet  thick,  forty  feet  high,  and  700  feet  long.  A  great  aqueduct  carried 
water  to  the  city,  but  to-day  there  is  no  water  within  forty  miles  of  this  ancient  wonder.  It  stands  silent  and  alone  in  the  stmlight  and 
moonlight,  and  where  once  the  love,  industry  and  skill  of  an  unknown  race  made  thousands  of  beautiful  and  happy  homes,  the  coyote,  bat 
and  snake  now  hold  sway.     When  and  by  whom  it  was  built  was  a  mystery  to  the  Mexican  people  more  than  300  years  ago." 


SCKN(-;   ON    THH   liRHAT    AMERICAN    DliSliRP. 


THE  PUEBLO  VILLAGE  OH   LA  GUNA. 


1 

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INNER  COURT  OF  A  PUEBLO  TOWN.  ARIZONA. 


CHAPTMR  VI. 

ACROSS  THE  CACTUS  DESERT  INTO  CALIFORNIA'S  GOLDEN  LAND. 


iRAVIXCi  .Santa  I'e,  we  coiititnicd  cmr  journey  westward  over  llie  Atiliisoii,  Topeka  and  Santa  I'e  Railroad,  and  strikinjj  tlie 
Rio  (Irandc  a  short  <lislancu  soulii  of  Wiiite  Rock  Canon,  followed  the  hank  of  tlial  stream  thron),dl  some  very  han  isonie 
sctncry  until  we  reached  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Jiniction.  Thence  for  a  wiiile  the  route  was  throu>,di  an  arid  section,  where  alkali 
and  inusf|uitL'  abounded;  an  uuchanjj;eal)le  waste  of  black  sterility;  a  country  so  le\el  that  the  layin>;;  of  a  railroad  track  was 
attended  by  no  difTiculties,  hut  keeping;  it  clear  of  sand  is  a  work  of  j^reat  perverseuess.  We  were  now  on  the  line  of  the 
Atlantic  and  Pacific,  which  crosses  a  branch  of  the  Rio  Ciraiide  at  Rio  Tnerco,  and  soon  after  follows  the  valley  of  that 
Stream  for  about  sixty  miles.     Laguiui  is  on  the  way,  and  north  and  south  are  mesas,  dry  lakes  and  lava  beds,  but  there  is  no  jiictur- 

esiineness  of  landscas.e.  South  of 
~i  l-'ort  \Viu!,'atc,  just  east  of  the  Arizona 
border,  is  the  /uni  I'lateau,  in  which 
several  old  rnins  arc  still  to  be  seen; 
but  if  we  except  the  Indians,  who 
exist  in  the  most  miserable  condition, 
and  old  ruins  and  craters  of  extinct 
volcanoes,  the  rej;i(iu  is  without  inter- 
est, and  has  few  features  worthy  of 
the  i)hotoM;rapher's  art. 

After  reaehinjf  Arizona,  the 
road  ])asses  tlirouj,'h  a  corner  of  the 
I'ereo  and  Zuni  reservations,  and  fol- 
lows the  old  trail  leadinjj  to  Prescott. 
Immediately  south  of  I"laj,'staff,  and  in 
sij^ht  of  that  place,  arc  more  ruins  of 
cliff  dwellinjjs,  built  in  the  banks  of 
Walnut  Creek,  but  so  faded  as  to  he 
scarcely  distinjiuishable  now.  We 
are  now  in  the  Cactus  plain,  where 
immense  stalks  of  that  curious  vcjje- 
table  growth  rise  to  the  dignity  of 
branchless  trees,  prickly  and  often 
grotesque. 

At  a  little  station  called  Peach 

Springs,  the  road  draws  very  near  the 

Hualpai  reserv.ntion,  and  is  within  less  than  a  score  of  miles  of  the  Grand  Cation  of  the  Colorado;  but,  though  short,  the  way  is  a  difficult 

one,  over  parched  sands  and  an  eye-wearying  desolation,  until  within  four  or  five  miles  of  the  canon,  when  the  approach  to  water  is 

153 


NAVAJO  CHURCH,  NEAR  FORT  WINGATE. 


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mmm 


156 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


'I 


■- 


indicated  by  a  jjradual  increase  of  vesictation,  wliicli,  lu)\vi.vt.r,  nc\cr  licconu^  rank,  even  alonjj  tltc  river-shore.  A  staije-line  is  now 
ninninjj  from  l'"la};sl,iff,  wliicli,  thou^'li  mil  so  near  as  IVaeli  S[)rinj;s,  offers  a  nuieli  easier  ronle  to  llie  cafu)n.  The  tri])  from  l-'iaxstaff  is 
made  in  twelve  hours,  and,  by  comfortable  stai^es,  the  traveler  is  taken  to  one  of  the  most  imjiosinj,'  points  in  the  canon  (  Marble  Canon  ), 
where  the  descent  is  sheer  (i,iK)0  feet,  and  a  panorama  is  afforded  of  frightful  chasm,  curiously  chaotic  walls,  strani^c  formations,  and  moun- 
tains breaking  one  behind  the  other,  like  waves  on  the  ocean,  tnilil  sight  lades  into  the  perspective  of  distance.  Here  terror  aiul  sublimity, 
in  a  marvel  of  natural  extremes, 
have  formed  perpetual  alliance 
to  excite  amazement  in  the 
mind  of  ever^•  visitor. 

We  cross  the  Colorado  at 
Powell,  where,  to  the  sotith,  are 
Red  Rock  butles,  and  to  the 
north  are  the  Needles,  the  latter 
bein<;  hills  that  nni  up  into 
sharp  peaks,  and  then  fall  away 
to  join  a  lonjj  stretch  of  plain. 
Black  Mo\uitains  run  parallel 
with  the  river  on  the  north, 
near  the  foot  of  which,  but  on 
the  river-shore,  is  a  Mohave 
villa<;e,  a  settlement  of  that 
miserable  remnant,  who  from 
a  powerful  i)eople  have  de),'en- 
erated,  throutjli  ojipression  and 
decimation,  until  they  are 
scarcely  a  de;4ree  removed  from 
the  Difjgcr  Indians.  The  res- 
ervation proper  of  this  tribe  is, 
however,  ne.ir  the  Xavajoes,  in 
the  northeastern  part  of  the 
territory 

Crossing;  the  Colorado,  we 
strike  the  desert  district  of 
California,  which  extends 
llirou);h  the  counties  of  ,San 
Heruardinoand  Kern,  a  distance 
of  nearlv  three  hundred  miles. 


NAIUKAl.   HI'llJUL,   NtAK   MONTKHEY,  CALIFORNIA. 


\djoininf,'  these  two  ecmnties  on  the  north  is  Inyo  county,  into  which  the  Carson  and  Colorado  Railroad 
extends  southward  as  far  as  Owen's  Lake.  This  county  is  remarkable  fur  embracing  a  rejjioii  of  extraordinary  wonders,  {greater,  indeed, 
in  several  respects,  than  any  other  district  in  the  world.  In  tlic  northern  jiart  is  a  marvelous  depression,  l.M*  feet  below  se.i  level,  and 
nearly  150  miles  in  circumference,  known  as  Death  Valley.      It  in  distinctively  a  volcanic  region,  in  which,  however,  the  fires  arc  long  singt; 


:   i     <  I 


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A  CENTURY   PLAN!    IN   BLOOM,  CALIFORNIA. 


A  CACTUS   I  ENCE,   IN   ARIZONA. 


mmmm 


T58 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


buriifd  out,  Icaviin'  ''..c  desert  a  vast  field  of  cinders, 
so  parelied  that  no  drop  of  water  e\i>ts  within  its 
borders,  though  rivers  of  hiva  raniify  it  in  every 
direction.  Manv  have  jierislied  in  an  effort  to  cross 
this  fiery  plain;  and  lookint;  across  it  from  the  margin, 
the  observer  sees  a  shiiinner  in  the  air,  as  if  a  furnace 
were  in  active  blast  beneath.  Here  the  tein])erature 
rises  to  1"Jl'  decrees,  and  the  air  han.us  in  a  hot 
envelope,  lazily  swiu<^in!.;  to  and  fro,  rising  and  l.ill- 
ing  in  waves  of  he.il,  and  niakin.i;  the  sands  blaze 
with  an  almost  blinding;  li.^ht.  .Scorched,  burned- 
out  and  fi'^'iace-like  thou<;h  the  reijion  be,  it  is, 
nevertheless,  e  abode  of  life,  but  no  less  carious 
than  is  the  valley  itself.  The  centipede,  scorpion 
and  horned-toad  lind  here  a  couj^eiiial  habitation; 
and,  strange  to  say,  a  species  of  kangaroo-rat  is  pecu- 
liar to  this  cursed  sjiot,  burrowing  in  the  hot  .sand 
and  feeding  on  insects. 

Thuiuler-storius  beat  around  the  valley,  but 
no  drop  of  rain  ever  iiMisteiis  its  burning  lips.  The 
dryness  of  the  air  is  such  a  preserver  of  de.id  bodies 
that  decay  is  impossible,  and  the  animals  that  die 
within  its  borders  are  mummified  until  tlu'v  ln.'ome 
like  parchment.  This  cursed  spot,  sown  as  it  is 
with  dragon's  teeth,  is  not  entirely  without  its  attrac- 
tions, though  they  are  as  dangerous  as  were  <he  soft, 
lute-like  voices  of  the  .Sirens.  It  is  the  field  of  won- 
derful illusion,  from  which  s])ring  into  the  (|uivering 
air  the  nio.st  astounding  and  alluring  mirages:  rip- 
pling brooks,  waving  palms,  floral  meadows,  ships 
under  sail,  l)anks  of  thyme,  and  travelers  mo\  iiig  in 
procession  across  a  landscape  more  beautiful  than  an 
oriental  vision. 

Continuing  our  journey  westward,  we  jiassed 
through  a  large  arid  district,  in  which  dr\-  lakes  with 
beds  white  with  sod.i.  and  shining  in  the  blazing 
sun,  were  plentiful  on  both  sides,  but  seeing  no  more 
interesting  features  until  we  arrivd  at  I.os  .\ngeles. 
Here  we  found  much  to  amuse,  and  often  to  instruct. 
It  is  an  old  town,  settled  by  the  Spaniards,  in  1780, 


THE  GREAT  TELESCOPE,  IN  LICK  OBSERVATORY. 


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i6o  AMKRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 

ami  alllioiij;h  now  a  Ix-aiitiful  cil\ ,  it  has  ii"t  intiivlv  ]»\i  .i-i-lc  the  j^aniuiUs  i,f  aiiliiinily  with  wliii-h  the  ancient  church  fathers  invested  it. 
Many  old  adolie  l)uildini;s  still  iciu.iin.  and  llkic  are  not  waiuinif  the  ruins  of  iin.iiiil  and  curious  monasteries,  moss-covered,  and  with 
broken  w.iUs  and  dilapidated  belli   \s,  in  which  the  olinsts  of  loiii;  aj;i>  Seem  to  have  their  haunt. 

"  Tlie  river,  which  washes  the  eastern  limits  of  the  city,  is  a  sliii;;^ish  stream,  hut  it  imparts  refreshment  to  one  of  the  most  fertile 
valleys  to  be  fonnd  anywhere  in  Califoriii.i.  Here  we  Inid  a  succession  of  orans,'e-t;roves  and  vineyards,  hendini;  low  with  !,M>Iden  and  pnrple 
fruitage,  while  beyond  the  cil\  's  skirts  arc  orchards  of  walnut,  olive  and  almond,  from  wdiich  prolilal)le  crops  are  aiiniiall.v  K^itheied. 

San  Dietjo,  147  miles 
south  of  I^os  An.i;eles,  is  another 
beautihil  place,  the  center  of  a 
delightful  re<;ioii,  but  its  iiiiei- 
est  lies  very  largely  in  the  fact 
that  it  was  at  this  place  the  first 
white  settler  in  California 
pitched  his  tent,  as  early  as 
17li!i.  This  great  Spanish  pio- 
neer, Father  Junipero  Serra  by 
name,  became  the  louiuler  of 
twenty-one  missions  in  Cali- 
liiniia,  some  of  wliioli  still 
leiiuiin  ill  a  fair  stale  of  pre.-er- 
witiuii,  but  a  majority  exist  as 
mere  reminders  of  the  oliku 
lime  when  the  iManeiscaii  friars 
dominated  that  portion  of  the 
Spanish  territory.  In  this 
smithern  region  the  landscape 
is  iiionolonous,  and  the  air  is 
usually  hot,  from  which  fact,  no 
doubt,  came  the  name  "Cali- 
fcjruia,"  which,  in  the  Spanish, 
signifies  "  Ikji  furnace,"  and 
was  bestowed  by  the  discoverer, 
in   \XU. 

„^„^„„i;„„„    ,,         ,  nv\>  sTAnEr.oAr.H  cdossing  the  santa  inez. 

Proceecnng  northward, 
the  scenery  becomes  niore  varied  and  pleasing,  fm-  al>ii\e  l.ns  AnK^des  a  mountainous  district  is  passed,  with  the  .San  liernardino  and 
Sierra  dc  San  Rafael  ranges  on  the  right,  and  the  M"iiiia  and  .Santa  Inez  ranges  on  the  left.  Still  hinher  north  are  the  .San  Henito 
Mountains,  paralleling  the  San  Juan  River,  along  whose  inagnificcnt  valley  the  railroad  runs  until  it  reaches  Castroville  on  the  coast,  just 
above  Monterey.  This  latter  ])lace  is  one  of  very  great  attiartiveness,  nut  oulv  for  its  historical  associations,  as  the  seat  of  .Spanish  (lovern- 
nient  in  California  until  I^'^IT,  but  also  liccause  it  is  ilio  best  speeinu-n  of  the  old-time  adobe  cities  which  now  remains,  as  well  as  the  location 
of  oue  uf  the  most  e.\(piisitc  gardens  and  charming  hotels  that  is  to  be  fouiul  eit'ier  in  or  out  of  .\meriea.    The  Hotel  del  Monte  is  a  building 


MAGNOLIA  AVENUE,   RIVERSIDE,  CALIFORNIA. 


"II 


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a.mI':rica"s  wondkrlaxds. 


(■' 


of  much  beauty  in  itself,  hut  the  very  kiine 
jjiounds  wliieh  sunuuud  it  have  been  culti- 
vated until  they  are  a  veritable  paradise  of 
noble  oaks,  rich  g;reen  lawns,  and  bewilder- 
ing flower-beds,  dinijiled  with  every  hue  that 
nature  is  capable  of  iiaintin<;.  The  old  town 
is  a  ghost  of  antitinity,  the  skeleton  of  a 
remote  past,  whose  bony  tlngers  point  back- 
ward, as  if  beckoning  beseechingly  to  the 
long  ago.  There  is  the  mission  house, 
rickety  and  tattered,  raising  its  palsied  head 
liarcly  above  the  adobe  walls  which  once 
served  so  well  to  defend  it  agaim.t  enemies. 
But  the  wall,  very  thick  though  it  was,  has 
been  badly  breached  bv  the  catapults  of 
time,  and  having  done  faithful  guard-duty 
in  the  early  days,  it  is  now  like  the  grave  of 
a  hero,  which  has  become  a  shrine,  to  which 
many  are  drawn  by  curiosity  as  well  as 
by  respect. 

From  Montere\-  northward  the  road 
runs  through  the  incomparably  beautiful 
and  fertile  Santa  Clara  \'alley,  a  region  where 
nature  is  always  in  good  humor,  and  .so  fat 
that  every  lime  she  laughs  she  shakes  out  a 
harvest.  Towards  the  left  spreads  away  a 
w.iving  plain  in  richest  cultivation,  while  on 
the  right  towers  the  Coast  range  of  mount- 
ains, whose  siunniits,  bathed  pcrpetualls-  in 
a  clear  atmosphere,  look  in  the  distance  like 
a  vast  ridge  of  sapphires  supporting  the  sky. 

.\t  San  Jose,  a  lovely  city  embowered 
with  oaks,  vines,  roses  and  palms,  the  stage 
is  taken  for  Moinit  Hamilton,  upon  the  jieak 
of  which  is  located  the  Lick  ()bservator\', 
enclosing  the  great  Lick  telescope.  The 
road  cost  ^f^d,!)'!!!  to  make;  and  though  the 
ascent,  which  is  begun  fifteen  miles  from 
San  Jose,  is  great,  yet  .so  admirably  con- 
structed is  the  way  that  two  horses  easily 


THE  GRIZZLY  GIANT,  MARIPOSA  GROVE  OF   BIG  TREES. 


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A  CACTUS  C.ARDEN  OF  SOUTHERN  CALIFORNIA. 


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AN  OLD  MISSION   HOUSli,   IN  CALIFORNIA. 


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164 

(liiiK  till.'  >l.i«t-  to  tlif  sinninit. 
1  iK-viT  li.iil  a  iiKm-  iKlivjlitliil 
riik'  tlian  tliis  Irip  alfuKkd,  i"\ 
while  the  air  was  hiaciiiji,  tlie 
view  was  at  all  tiiiies  iuiUsi-iilia- 
1)1  y  iiicHircsqui'.  At  places 
where  sliarj)  turns  are  iiiaile, 
passengers  can  look  out  of  the 
coueh  windows  down  inln 
abysses  wlliell  seem  to  he  Iml- 
tomless,  and  whieli  ne\er  lail 
to  elicit  the  (ineslion  :  "If  a 
wheel  should  run  oft  the  ed>;e, 
where  would  the  passeni,'ers 
land?" 

The  altitude  of  the  oliserxa- 
tory  is  l.-'.'iO  feet  alio\e  the 
valley,  and  from  this  lofty  i)oiut, 
it  is  claimed,  with  an  ajipear- 
auce  of  truth,  that  a  ),'reater  aiea 
is  visible  than  from  any  othir 
in  the  world.  Xot  only  is  the 
whole  of  Santa  Clara  N'alley 
viewable,  t)Ut  on  very  clear 
(la\s  the  hi<;liesl  peaks  of  the 
Voscniite  are  discernible,  and 
even  Mount  ,Shasta,  iO(i  niiles 
distant,  can  be  distiu.i;ui'>hed. 
The  telescope  is  a  .lii-inch  re- 
flector, the  largest  ever  made,  and 
so  Ulassive  that  it  is  controlled 
by  hydraulic  i)ower,  which  is 
most  iuyenionsly  a])plied,  the 
adjustmeut  being  so  ])crfecl  that 
Its  many  tons  of  weight  can  be 
moved  by  a  single  finger.  The 
public  have  free  access  to  the 
obscrvatorv,  but  uufortuu.itely, 
and  very  unwisely,  visitors  are 
not  permitted   to  use   the 


AMI'RIC.WS  \\\)\1)I':RI<.\NUS. 


BRIDAL   VBIL  l-ALL,   YOSEMITE. 


I 


■  III 


;iJ 


LICK  OBSERVATORY,  ON  THb  SUMMIT  OK  MOUNT  HAMILTON,  CALIFORNIA 


i66 


AMKRIC  \"S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


clesci>]ic  I'xci'pt   oil 


S.itunliv  iii.u'us.     As  l'a\(iialili-  (.'\i.iini>;s  an-  coin- 


-ativi'ly  iVw,  lliis  rule  pivvciits  ,i  \civ  .yiiMl  inajmity  ot   ihischis  Ironi 
It  IIk'v  have  travoli'il  tlioiisaiuls  of  tiiiks  lo  mi,  aiul  iiiiK-h 


■.valizuiij  wli 
lomplaiiit 


si  tl 


ic  astroiioiiK-rs  in  cliavi^o  is  aiTiiidiiii4ly  mack'. 


l-"roiii  San  joso  lo  San  iMancisfo  llic  ilislancc  is  alioul  fillv  niilis, 
tliioii;4li  foRsls  of  iviUvood,  past   I'harniinii- \  lias  skirling  San  I'laiR-isi-o 


■av, 


aiu 


1  Ilia 


'IV 


lifautit. 


L-uli:' 


U)  tins  per] 


H-lual   .-uinnu'i- 


Tlic 


cilv  is  one  i)l  exccei 


lin.i;! 


^ival  inu-resl,  posses 


lealnre- 


a  unique  as  well  as  of  a  niaiiiiiricenl  charaeler.  Sotiie  of  its  liesl  streets 
are  reelaniations  from  llie  bay,  wliere,  in  IM'J,  llie  larj,'est  ships  rode  at 
aiielior:  and  what  were  oiu-e  bare  lununlains  of  saml  wire  made  aeeessil.le 


111. 


adoption  of  a  eable 


svstem  ot  >ireel  railroad 


are  now  several  of  the  finest  residenees  in  Anieriea. 


TIu-  I'alaee  Hotel  is   llie   lart;e-l    in   tlie   world,  nine   stories   lli.yll, 


oeoiqn  11154 


Iv 


ill   Irel    ol    tjroiinc 


and  eo^t,   willi   Inrnishiin; 


llie 


.iinrmoiis  sum  of  *;. 000,01111.  'flu.  pnldie  Iniildiii'^^,  and  many  t>i  tlie 
liusiiRss  Moeks  as  well,  attest  tile  j^reat  wealth  of  the  plaee,  wliieli  llowed 
Id  (liseoveries.      I.one  Mounlain,  dislin.i,Miislied   liy  a  Iar:^e 

1. 


ill)  the 


wnoileii  cross  on  ils 


uninil,  affords  a  \  iew  wliieli   einbraees  imt  ouK  the 


;'iuire  eit\-  and  lia\  ,  hul   likewi 


i|  tile  oct 


an.  Mount    I  >i,diolo  and  tin 


luiiy  C'o.ist  Kaui^e  ill, It  sliiminels  ill  the  siiii  like  ]ioli--lieil  uiet.il. 

Hut  the  most  (kli;,^litfiil  ])oiul  of  interest  is  the  Clilf  House,  iie  u 
the  entrance  lo  the  Cioldeii  Ciate,  reached  liy  a  lieanlifnl  dri\e  llndiii;li 
I 'loldei'  Ci.ite  r.irk,  .iiid  ,ilso  li\-  cilde  and  ~te,iiu  cars.  The  pro-peet  fmin 
the  hotel   i)iazza,  reaoliiiii'^  far  .iliove  and  o\cr  the  oce.m,  is  both  yr.ind 


ind   ehavininsj 


Iniiuedi.iteK   in   front,  and  onlv  three  or   four  liundud 


v.irds  .iw.i\  ,  three  rocks  rise  out  of  the  sea  to  a  Iieiuht  of  oik    liundrt 


leet. 


d 


lamdreds  of  sea-lions  trallier  of  suiiiiv  dav  s  to  b.isk 


and  (lispl,i\-  lliemseKes  before  amused  spect.ilors.  .\t  limes,  llieir  li.irk- 
iiiL;  is  .ilmost  distr.ieliuL;,  especially  wlku  some  ui:l\ -dispositioned  jiater 
f.imilias  o!   the   >o(.,ii   herd   sets   aliout   cle.irini/   llu'    rocks,    when    there 


f.dle 

spi 


I  noise  like  ten  thousand   bi^  doos  in  coiillict,  and  a  scr.imblin 
awlinsj;  and  ininblin''  th;il  is  wonderfni  as  well  as  amnsiii". 


San  l''raucis.'o  i-.  a  center  from  w 


hid 


1   main   inlerestiii'r  1'. 


lliav   be  convenieiillv  made,   several  of   which   we   tierformcd,   with   tlie 


p.ir'ir.ular  view  of  iihotoirr.iphir.;,;  the  most  attractive  fealiiri:- 


Chief  of 


tle-e  excursions  is  lo  the  Vosemile  N'allev,  which  is  L'li?  miles  from  .Sau 


I-'ruicisco,  the  last  si\l\-sevei 


iles  1 


leinj;  )oiirne\ 


■.I  1 


i\  sla"e. 


I.eavin 


that  cilv  at   I  p.  M,,  we  re.iehed    Raxiiiond  at  >>  A.  M.  the  fidlowiiij,^  da\  , 
.it  which     I'jiiit  the   sl.i,i;e  is  t.ikeii   to  W.iwoua,  which   is  oiilv   six  miles 


i 

(i.i 

nj!.,.y 

• 

^^ 

f 

WsM 

i"i 

'j 

\ 

•    L 

Ji 

/ 

^^^BS- ■  3^^^^H 

~  ( 

/I" 

'       f 

. ,  f !  .^'  i .- 

\  i 

■     4    S 

■■nmtL 

,  *«f 

M 

*^' 

if- 

• 

■s 

• 

1 

1 

*                          ' 

•• 

♦v 

« 

->'^;-_       "^:        -           ^  ■    ■'v^.^Sfaa; 

v! 

A       ' 

F' 

,1 ' 

f 

"^  •    . 

^B*^' 

■* 

•• 

4     ■ 

II' 


"I  I,. 


|l!     Ill    ' 

'"    I; 


r,\k|iH^   Ol'    I'AI  MS   AI    INIJIO,    NHAK   SAN    DIKCiO.   CAIIMIRNIA. 


liotn  the  .M:iri]X)sa  On)ve  of  Hiy;  Trees.  These 
>;i.uits  of  the  piinieval  forest  are  in  a  Goveni- 
iiieiit  reservation  two  miles  scpiare,  and  compose 
two  distinct  irroves  some  half  a  mile  apart.  In 
the  upper  grove  there  are  ;iii'i — one  fen-  each 
day  in  the  >ear — trees,  l.'i4  of  whicll  exceed 
fifteen  feet  in  diameter,  and  several  are  more 
than  ;UM)  feet  in  hei.t;ht.  The  lar,y;est,  known 
as  the  (Iriz/Iy  Ciiant,  in  the  lower  Krove,  is 
thirty-one  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  first  limb 
which  makes  out  from  the  trunk,  2UU  feet  above 
the  earth,  is  si.\  feet  in  diameter.  There  is  a 
prostrate  tree  in  thi.s  grove  whicli  originallv 
measured  forty  feet  in  diameter,  and  was  ino 
feet  in  height.  The  body  is  hollow,  and  is 
large  enoiigh  to  admit  three  horsemen  abreast 
a  distance  of  se\eiUv  feet. 

A  few  miles  beyond  Wawona  is  a  stage- 
station  called  Fresno,  which  is  within  the  liniit.s 
of  another  gro\e  of  mannnoth  trees,  the  largest 
of  which  is  thiity-two  feet  in  diameter  at  the 
butt,  and  there  are  ])robably  KlU  or  more  that 
uieasnre  as  much  as  twenty  feet  through.  Just 
lK\nu<l  l-'resno,  we  enter  the  far-f.imed  and 
truly  m:u\elons  region  of  the  Yosemite  (  which, 
in  the  Indian  tongue,  signifies  a  "grizzly 
bear"),  that  great  heart  of  the  Sierras  whicli 
beats  in  monnt.iin  and  breaks  in  waterfall.  Tins 
wondrous  willey,  riinning  along  the  western 
base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada  range,  is  a  compara- 
tively K\el  area,  but  it  lies  fully  l.noo  f^.^-t 
above  sea  level,  and  is  nine  miles  long,  by  an 
average  of  one  mile  wide.  The  reui.nkable 
leature  of  this  valle\-,  aside  fnmi  its  sjiecial 
curiosities  and  mammoth  configurations,  is  the 
fact  that  it  is  enclosed  by  granite  walls  of 
almost  unbroken  continnit)',  which  present  per- 
pendicular faces  ranging  from  .'!,<";()  U)  (!,()()() 
feet  iu  height.  The  \alley  was  <liscovvred 
Ma\-   li,    Is.'il,    by    the    .Mariposa    battalion,    iu 


.\MHRIC.\"S  \VO.\DKRI,.\XDS. 


VERNAL  FALLS  AND  LADY  FRANKLIN  ROCK,  YOSEMITE. 


I 

■i 

i 

4. 

•.-1  ->  : 

J 

..vsiiiii.. 

i 

'■■^'■;.-   'jV; 

'-.^ 

^fl 

j|^i;;'--.V^^ 

Mgf 

3 

Ij^fc^^^^M 

'^'ll. 


III) 

"ri 


SEAL  ROCKS  AND  CI. IFF  HOUSE  AT  THE  <^,Ol.DEN  (",ATE,  SAN  FRANCISCO. 


A.MKRICA'S  WONDKRLAXDS. 


coniiiKuul  111  Majiir  J.mics  I>.  Sawijjc, 
wliicli  luiil  liiiMi  SI- lit  ai^.iiiisl  l  lu- 
Viisetnito    Indians,  to  punish  tin- in 


fur  ont 


rayi's  per 


iH'tratcil 


a''auisl  llif 


I  llii 


miners  in  tlic  omnlifs  of  Mariposa, 
Imouci,  'riinlninui-  ,uul  Inyo.  \']>  to 
this  tiino  llio  Nall'.'y  was  known  to 
wliitis  only  thronjjli  Indian  tradi- 
tions, wliicli  rt-pivsontcd  the  ri'.!,;ion 
.IS  oiK'  of  "ivat  l)0.uit\-,  bill  tlio  .iluidf 


if   witclius  and    iv  il 


it>.      rimn 


tlu'  iliscovcry,  howcvir,  it  w.is  fonnd 
to  lie  a  ]ilac.'ij  of  n-fiiiL^c.'  for  t  lie 
Indians;  and    witiiin   its  hoiindarics. 


the  re  I  ore,  some  desperate  fi.i,ditiii,i; 
took  plaee  between  the  C.ilifornia 
il  the  Vi  .Semite  Iiidi.m 
11  wliich  there  were 
11  both  sides,  and  ni.nu 


ran,!.;ers    a  n 
marauders. 


Me  '\  \'  lo-si 


acts  of  .-.hoLkiii"-  enieltv. 


The    st.u'e- 


ro.id    le.idiiii;   tmni 


\\',i\\ona  is  particularly  roiiiantie  .iiid 


deli-l.tf 


ullv  inetiire-Miie, 


itli   vieu- 


of  mountains,  l.inj^hini;-  stre.iins  and 
befiowered  \alle\ -;.  that  bre.ik  in 
Jile-win;.,'  v.iriety  li]iiiil  the  e\|iei't.inl 
vision  of  the  visitor,  and  <;i\e  inti- 
mation of  the  <rrander  glories  that 
lie  beynnd.  Aflti  eidssiii;^'  Aldir 
Creek,  a  beautiful  stre.iui  tli.it 
w.ishes  a  pebbled  bed,  the  mute 
niiiunis  .Mder  Hill,  and  rises  r.ipidK 
until  from  its  apex  there  is  affurded 
.111  •iiia/ini;  >i.ylit,  which  i,e\er  laiN 
ti.  tliriiw  the  beholdir   into   r.ipture-. 


Xort: 


iw.ird,    like   a   tlire.n!    of    >il\er 


rnuninij  ihrouj^'h  a  labyrinth  of 
niiiuntains,  is  ihe  .South  I"ork,  while 
southward  the  same  stream  s]iei(l> 
awa\-  to  join  the  .Merced  River,  which 


HK;    IKhh;-  IN    mi:   MAKII'OSX  l(_)l<l.sl.  (.\l  llt.RMA. 


172 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDI'RKAXDS. 


Vi  1^1  Mill-. 


Hi  I 

III 


llf,( 

iir 


MIKKOK  I.AKI-;,  Kl-.l  I  l;(.il\i.  I-.I.  I  Al'l  TAN,  IN  YOSliMI  IK   l'\tVK,(    VI  II  <  )KMA. 


174 


ami:ric.vs  woxukruands. 


crest  :iro  not  distiiij;uisli;ibl(.-,  (Hily  a  wliiti'  lililioii 
thai  a]ii>t.ars  to  lia\c  litiii  lluiii;  dnwii  ovtT  tlie 
narnnv  ui\'^c  of  tliat  appalliiij;  siiiiimit  to  attract 
at  lent  in  11 .      Wli.il   \vc  sec  is  tiic  lir^t   ka])  of 


Vcisciiiitc   I'al 


isliiiur  llirou<'h  a  iiotcii  tliat  is 


lu- 


irlv  half  a  mile  wide,  aiul  wiiich  Ii 


IS  a 


fall  fro 


tl 


iree  ledyey 


.f 


<i>^  feet,  or  sixteen  times  "realer 


than   that  of  N 


lasrara. 


Tl 


lere. 


.1    fa 


('■lacier  I'oint,  which  is  ;i,li(lll  feet   hiyh,  and   from 


which    a    view  of   the   entire  valley  can 
that  pinnacle,  we  j;atlur  in  a 


.Stanilinsj;  on 


he  had. 

j,dc)rions 

panorama  of  extraordinary  s])Ieiidor.  The  ^'cat 
domes  of  the  Yoscmitc  arc  plainly  discernible;  so 
is  Libenv  Can,  Clouds"  Rest,  \"ernal  l-alls,  Nev.ida 


I'alls 


I'l 


(1  lake 


id  th. 


ift-rolli 


Merced 


River,  that  collects  and  bears  awa\'  the  waters  that 
')bin'^e  down  from  a  dozen  dizzv  heiirhts. 


Hnt  besides  tlioe, 


as  we  turn  to  swec] 


th, 


itlier    points,   we    catch    views   no 


ess    f^rand,  of 


iilibiin   I'al 


ith   its  leap  of  ;i,;l.'iO  feet,   Indian 


Cafioii,  Ro\al  Arches,  liridal  \"eil   b'all,  Washinjj;- 


Ti 


.■r.    Col  111 


a    R 


pcarl-Kray 


granite  walls  that  ri--e  in  places  to  a  \ertical  hei.ijlit 
,i  I'l, Olio  i\-(t.      Mure  beantifnl,   in  some  resiiects. 


than 
Lake, 


anv  o 


f   the 


as  nianv   l)elie\c. 


hich 


seems    to    re 


fleet 


are 
th. 


Mirror 
whole 


ley,  and  Cascade  Kails,  which  are  indescribalily 
ely.  The  meadows  draw  onr  admiration  like- 
ie,   for  tlK\'  are  so   cmercd   with   llowers  as  to 


apjiear  like  a  carpet  of  the  most 


■lis  jiatte 


done  in  the  liveliest  combination  of  brilliant  colors. 
I  nher  piiims  of  ,i,Meat  interest  are  the  Ciant's 
Tlininb,  Ivivlc  I'cak,  N'alley  I'ord,  the  ("rnoiiie  of 
the  Vi'seniitc,  Moiiiii  Walkm-,  f.ooi)  fitt  hi.i,di, 
n'-.d  Vis-sa  ack  (  Half  Dome).  .'■>,(I00  feel  in  liiiKJit, 
which  w.is  .•e),'arded  b\-  the  Indi.ms  as  the  Cinardlan 
An.irel  of  the  valley,  for  nj.on  the  south  side  of  it 
are  the  di>linct  outlines  of  a  litinian  lace,  declared 
in  a  lc.i;i.nd  to  be  those  of  Tn-loik-ah-nn-lali, 
ancient  father  of   the  Yosemites.     And  tliere    are 


1» 


I  n 


ii. 


J' 


IHi 


I'l 


*  IS 


liiir 


UPPER  CASCADK   OP   BRIDAL   VEIL   FALLS  IN   WINTER. 


SENTINEL   ROCK  WPAPPEr    l-s    \  ChmXiL 


M 


176 


AMIvRICA'S  WONDlvRI.ANDS. 


tile  Tliae  Urotlicrs,  calU'd  by  tlic  Iiu]i:ins  I'mn- 
piitn-p.i-sa,  wliii'li  si;^iiilK'S  "tlmi-  inoum.iiiis  jiLwiiii; 
k'.ip-mi;,',"  a  11,11110  no  dnulil  lif^lnwi'd  lnwiusc  i)f  tlic 
jioinilarity  >il  tli.it  j,miiio  \vitli  llii.'  i)ii>;iii.il  natives, 
and  also  lueaiisc  the  iiioiiiUains,  fiinii  a  di>tance, 
bear  a  strong-  resemblance  to  three  j.'.iant  troj;s  sittiii),; 
side  bv  side,  uimn  the  point  of  leaping;  into  the 
valley,  nearly  l.niiit  fi'L't  below. 

There  au-  several  j,'reat  falls  in  this  wonderful 
reservation,  which,  in  jioint  of  beant\ ,  exceed  th'i'-i- 
in  anv  other  ]iart  of  the  world.  Voseniite  Falls  is 
inconipar.dily  the  ^.Mealest  in  height,  and  ill  the 
months  of  May,  June  and  JtiK  ,  the  \olume  of  water 
which  it  ]iours  down  is  second  only  to  Ni.ij;ara  and 
Shoshone.  Its  first  verticil  leap  is  l,.'i<l()  feet,  where 
it  strikes  a  series  of  led<;es  which  break  the  w.ilcv 
into  cascades  for  another  fall  of  iiiti  feel,  alter  which 
it  takes  a  sheer  phinije  of  -I'H)  fi-it,  and  (lows  away 
into  the  Merced,  makiiij;  a  roariiiy;  noise  in  its 
inipetnoiis  descent  tli.it  can  be  heard  for  miles. 

Dridal  Wil  l".ill  is  the  teiniin.uion  of  a  creek 
beariiij;  the  same  name,  where  it  ])luii>jes  over  a 
precipice  !"")  feet  hi.t;h,  and  the  stream  is  .so  thin 
that  it  becomes  a  very  mist  before  reaching;  the 
val!e\ .  Directly  opjKisite  is  \'irt;iii  Te.irs  Creek, 
which  likewise  dashes  over  a  lofty  led.i;e  thron>,di  a 
iiuicli  in  b;i  Capitan,  l.iiiii)  f^et  liij,'h,  and  falls  in  a 
spray,  tlion.a;h  duriiij;  a  greater  part  of  the  year  the 
creek  is  ne.nh'  dry. 

The  first  fall  reached  in  asceiidiny;  the  canon 
of  the  Merced  is  \'ernal  I'all,  which  has  a  vertical 
height  of  4nO  feet  and  a  very  considerable  volimie. 
Hllt  as  we  proceed  further  up  the  canon,  passing;  a 
iininber  of  cascades,  llie  e\  e  suddenly  catches  what 
the  e.ir  has  anlicipat'^d,  and  ra]itnre  succeeds  expecta- 
tion, for  there  b  irsts  into  view  Nevada  l"alls, which, 
as  Professor  Whitney  says,  "  is  in  every  respect  one 
of  the  grandest  waterfalls  in  the  world,  whether  we 
consider  its  vertical  heigh.t,  the  purity  and  volume 
of  the  river  which  forms  it,  or  the  stupendous  .scenery 


THE   TURN,  IN  CHll.NUALNU   FALLS,   YOSE.MITK. 


>3tH 


V     .^^^ 


;^  ^>g*.-     .^i^' 


^SSi^. 


imfev 


THE  YOSEMITE  VALLEY.  AS  SEEN  FROM  ARTIST'S  POINT. 


Jt-.«^ 


III 


I'H 


itu- 
III) 

'«■ 

iir 


■I 


J 


.^.V^o. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


A 


^A^ 


V 


1.0 


IM   125 


■AO 


I.I 


IL25  III  1.4 


2f    13.6      i>M 


I 


2.0 


1.6 


Photographic 

^Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

W»STER,N.Y.  USSO 

(716)  172-4503 


^^^ 
'  ^ 


1 


r^- 


rT-!s. 


:8 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


bv  which  it  is  environed.  The  fall  is  not  quite  perpcndicr.lar,  as  there  is  near  the  siininiit  a  lcdj;e  of  rock  which  receives  a  portion  of  the 
water  and  throws  it  off  with  a  peculiar  twist,  addinjj  considerably  to  the  jji'ncral  ]>ictures(iue  effect." 

The  fall  is  about  tit'H  feet,  the  stream  beiu};  clearly  defined  thron^hout  its  descent,  and  the  volume  of  water  is  very  great,  Riving  to 
the  falls  the  very  ideal  of  beauty,  power  and  truly  extraordinary  grandeur.  In  the  Canon  of  the  South  I'ork,  there  is  another  fall  of  equal 
height,  and  it  is  one,  too,  of  nnich  attractiveness,  but  brought  into  comparison  with  that  of  Nevada,  of  which  it  is  a  close  brother,  though 

difTicult  to  reach,  it  ap!)ears  so  

iucousequeutial  as  to  scarcely 
deserve  a  name,  though  it  is 
occasionally  known  as  lUillo- 
uette  Falls. 

liut  everywhere,  \\\i  and 
d  o  w  n  that  m  a  g  i  c  \-  a  1 1  e  y  , 
whetlicr viewed  from  the  gorges 
that  have  their  bottoms  in  dark 
and  mystic  abysses,  or  from 
amazing  heights  of  walls  thrust 
far  into  the  skies,  there  is 
wonder  piled  upon  wonder, 
grandeur  overtopping  rapture, 
diimfounded  admiration  riding 
at  furious  ])ace  in  the  lead  of 
inspiration,  glorious  realization 
gilding  the  visions  of  imagina- 
tion. .\s  the  gifted  Ik-ujamin 
I',  Tiylor  wrote  of  his  visit  to 
this  wonderland:  "  Yoseuiite 
awaited  us  without  warning. 
Spectral  white  iu  the  glancing 
of  the  sun,  the  first  thought  •■- 
that  the  granite  ledges  of  all 
the  mountains  had  come  to  res- 
urrection, and  were  .standing 
pale  and  dumb  before  the  Lord. 
I  turned  to  it  again,  and  began 
to  see  the  towers,  the  domes, 
the  spires,  the  battlements,  the 

arches  and  the  while  clouds  of  solid  granite,  surging  up  into  the  air  and  come  to  everlasting  anchor  until  the  mountains  .shall  be  moved! 
Yon  ha.sten  on;  you  hear  the  winds  intoning  in  the  choral  galleries  a  mile  above  your  head;  you  hear  the  crash  of  waters  as  of  cataracts  in 
the  sky;  you  tram])le  upon  broad  s-l-adows  that  have  fallen  thousands  of  feet  down,  like  the  cast-off  garments  of  descending  nij,ht." 

Instead  of  returning  direct  to  San  Francisco,  by  way  of  the  route  we  had  taken  to  the  Yoseinite.  we  went  northward,  over  a  very 


AN   INDIAN   BURIAL   ON   THE   PRAIRIE. 


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HALF  DOME  AND  CLOUDS'  REST.  YOSEMITE  VALLEY. 


icSo 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


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};ood  riiiul,  tlii(ni>;li  Tdohmiiit'  and  into  Cahivcras  CDiinty,  near  the  casUrii  cdnc  ■>(  wliicli  is  the  very  eeleliraleil  j;ri)\e  of  ),'iant  trees.     The 

grove  is  confined  within  a  valley  some  ii.'ino  i^,■^.^l  loiij^j  hy  (<0(l  feet  wide,  and  enil)raees  ninety-three  inaninioth  trees,  some  of  wliieli  are 

prostrate.     The  tallest  now  .standing' is  .'ti'.'f  feet  hij,'h,  and  mcasutes  fifteen  feet  in  diameter.     There  are'others  which,  though  less  loft\ , 

exceed  the  tallest  in  nir\\\  measnrenient  ])y  as  ninch  as  twenty  feet  in  circumference,  while  the  thickness  of  the  hark  on  these  griz/ly  giants 

is  as  much  as  ei<^hteen  inches.      I'ive  miles  southeast  of   the  Cal.iveras  forest   is  the  Stanislaus  droxe,  of  ahont  >"•"  trees,  which   in  any 

other    country   than    California 

wouKl  lie  considered  ,is  veritalde  ] 

monsters  for  size;  but  they  do 

not  eqvial  the  hetter  speciuRiis 

in  either  the  Calaveras  or  M.iri- 

posa    Ciroves,   though    sescral 

have  ,1  height  of  i'."iil  feel,  and 

a  trunk    ci  rcuui  ferencc    ot 

thirtx-  feet. 

Having  inspeetei!  ,ind 
photographed  the  groves,  we 
proceeded  to  Murjihy's  Hotel, 
sixteen  miles  from  the  Calaveras 
(  irove,  thence  twenty-five  miles 
by  .sl.ige  to  N'.dley  Sjirings,  a 
sl.ition  on  a  narrow-gauge  rail- 
road that  runs  to  I.odi,  where 
connection  is  maile  for  San 
l"raucisco. 

It  was  not  possible,  with- 
out occni)ying  years  of  time, 
to  ni.ike  trips  over  all  the 
picturesque  rail-routes  of 
.-Vmerica,  and  the  tr.insporta- 
tiou  of  our  material  in  a  jilioto- 
graph  car,  which  was  in  almost 
constant  \ise.  ma  L'  it  neccsarv 
that  our  three  photographers 
travel  together,  except  when  it 
was  desirable  to  cover  in  (piick 
time    short  detours    from  main  ^^^  ^  HOCK,  I.AKH  TAHOE. 

li!  \s.  For  this  rea.son  the  overland  trip  from  Denver  was  made  by  way  of  the  southern  route,  without  dividing  our  party;  but  to  provide 
against  what  would  otherwise  have  been  a  serious  omission,  the  ])liotogra|)her  of  the  Southern  Pacific  Railroad  was  brought  into  service  to 
supply  views  cf  scenery  along  that  road  between  Ogden  and  San  l"rancisco,  over  which  the  writer  has  traveled  .so  frequently  as  to  be 
thoroughly  familiar  with  all  the  jxiints  of  interest.     It  was  this  route,  formerly  known  as  the  Central  Pacific,  joining  the  Union  Pacific  at 


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uSj 


AMHRICA'S  WDXDICRLANDS. 


O^'iltii,  lli.it  (.•oiisliliUid  the  first  ;ill-i;iil  omiI.iikI  mail  lioiii  Oiiialia  tii  San  iMaiii'isiii,  ;  \u\  il  iciiitiiniis  to  Ik.IiI  rank  as  tlii'  most  ))ictnri'S(ini\ 
tlu)Uj.;li  tlio  sci'iKTv  altcriialfs  with  many  divary  palilus. 

Aftir  Icaxinj;  Oj^-Kn,  tlif  Soullicrii  Pacific  passes  in  a  lialf-circlc  aroniul  the  nortiicrn  shores  of  Salt  I.akc,  and  llicn  darts  into  the 
Nevada,  or  Creat  Au'erican  Desert,  ;i  vast  sea  of  alkali  rippled  with  dry  sa>;e-l)nisli;  a  fnrnace  in  sninmer  and  a  Siherian  tnndra  in  winter. 
Nature  has  denied  to  tli  ■  wretched  rejfion  any  compensation  of  llower,  stream,  bird,  or  even  ciirit)sity.  It  is  the  \cry  nakedness  of  bleak  deso- 
lation, and  stretches  its  cursed 
lenj;th  throu.i;li  a  distance  of  il("i 
miles.  The  Humboldt  River  has 
tried  to  force  a  way  thronj^jh  this 
parched  waste;  but  however 
jjreat  its  \-oluiiie  of  water,  leath- 
ered from  the  niounlains  in 
spriujr  freshets,  the  desert 
drinks  it  uj)  at  a  place  known  as 
the  Humboldt  Sink,  where  the 
thirst  of  the  s.iuds  is  so  >;reat 
that  the  river  is  arrested  and 
stands  still  in  a  shallow  lake, 
the  resort  of  ni)  r  ads  of  water- 
fowls. 

Hut  thou<,di  the  land  is  a 
wind-swept  w.iste  of  alkali, 
scorched,  dcimded  and  ctirsed, 
yet  men  have  planted  their 
holies  even  there,  and  arc  wrtrst- 
liuj;  with  the  harshest  and  most 
u  n  prom  i  s  i  ii  j.;  disadvantages. 
Indian  camps  are  fre(iueiit,  and 
villajjes  are  occasional,  where  a 
few  brave  men,  inured  to  all 
difficulties,  scratch  the  parched 
earth  and  seek  a  precarious 
sustenance,  thou^jh  .-early  all 
are  traders,  furnisliing  .supplies 
to  miners  in  the  mountains 
miles  awav. 


CASCAtJE   BKIDCH   AM)  SNOW-SHEDS  ON   THH   SIERRAS. 


The  dreary,  lifeless  monotony  is  relieved,  however,  just  before  reachiujj  Humboldt  Lake,  by  the  bold  but  ru).;jjed  contour  of  sky- 
piercinjj  pinnacles,  which  rise  to  the  south  of  the  road  in  curious  forms  and  extraordinary  mafjnitnde,  marking  the  line  of  Ilninboldt  River. 
The.se  interesting  formations  are  known  as  the  Humboldt  Palisades,  in  which  the  Devil's  Peak  is  conspicuous,  viewed  from  the  car  window. 
.•\fter  .so  many  hours  passec'  in  crossing  a  wretched  desert,  the  scenery  of  meandering  river  and  lofty  bluffs  is  extremely  invigorating,  and 


CATHEDRAL  ROCKS,  2Soo  FEET  HKiH,    N  VOSEMITE  PARK,  CAI.II-ORNIA. 


ill' 
III 


I     iiF 


■  i 


m 


iS4 


AMlvRIC.WS  WOXDKkl.ANUS. 


li 


.wSSSSWK^' 


•iiv^ 


lin'pai.itiim  to  I'lijoy  tlic  si),'lit  is  complfU'.  Hut  tlif  p.ilisadis  an-  siiinulaily  l)i'autiful,  vii'wi'd  uikUt  any  conditions,  and  .situated  near  the 
vdj^e  I'f  an  alkali  wilik'nicss,  as  tliey  aiv,  thc>'  l)riak  upou  the  vision  of  a  \vi'st-l)oiind  passiii^i-r  with  a  dcii)^ht  that  arouses  rapture. 

At  Wadswnrlh,  TruckLe  ','aliiy  is  iiilered,  j;u<.u  witii  the  joy  of  exuberant  nature,  wliicli  we  f4)llow  nutil  Truckee  City,  a  (jem  of 
the  Sierras,  is  j^Mined,  and  realixe  that  we  ha\e  now  to  eliiul)  o\er  the  .second  ridye  of  the  continent,  the  raj;j;ed  rihs  tiiat  flank  the  jj''"''' 
water-shed  of  the  thrc-  .\utericas.  Truckee  is  not  only  .i  pretty  villaj^c,  ucslliii).;  on  the  snowy  bosom  of  the  .Sierra  Nevad.i  Mo\iutaiii.S|  hut 
it  is  the  ceiiterof  a  l.ike  re>;it)n, 
whiivin  aI)onu(!  some  of  tin- 
most  ren!arkal)le  bodies  of  water 
to  be  found  on  the  j;lobe.  I'"our- 
teen  miles  towards  the  .south  is 
C.ilifornia's  favorite  resort.  Lake 
T.ihoe,  a  really  m.irvelous  sheet 
of  crystalline  water  that,  from 
the  mountain  peaks  which  en- 
close it,  looks  like  a  colossal 
beryl  that  throni^h  some  dislurb- 
uieut  has  been  rolled  out  of  the 
.sky  and  found  lodj^ment  in  the 
j;rcat  lap  of  the  Sierras.  The 
environs  of  the  lake  are  wou- 
ilrouslv  jjrand,  and  the  air  a 
\ery  enchantment,  so  j;reat  is 
its  exhilaration.  The  lake  is 
twenty-two  mile.s  loiij;,  ten 
miles  wide,  and  1,7(10  feet  deep, 
while  the  surface  is  li.L'fT  feet 
above  sea  level,  and  it  is,  as 
Mark  Twain  elo(|uently  de- 
scribes it,  "  a  sea  in  the  clouds; 
a  sea  that  has  character,  and 
asserts  it  at  times  in  solemn 
calms,  and  a<;ain  in  .savajje 
storms;  a  sea  whose  royal  seclu- 
sion is  fjuarded  by  a  cordon  of 
.sentinel  jteaks  that  lift  their 
frosty    fronts    !i,0(i()  feet   above 

the  level  world;  a  sea  whose  every  aspect  is  imjircssive,  whose  belonjjinjjs  are  beautiful,  whose  lonely  niaje.sty  types  the  Deity."  Tahoe's 
waters  abound  with  trout  and  other  t'lsli,  whose  bodies  flash  the  suiilijjht  from  a  depth  of  thirty  feet.  The  waters  are  so  cold  that  decomposition 
is  arrested  below  the  surface.  Many  persons  have  been  drowned  in  the  lake,  but  not  one  has  ever  been  recovered,  when  the  accident  occurred 
in  deep  water.     So  pellucid  are  its  waters  that  a  boat  j,diding  along  the  surface  appeurs  to  be  pa.ssinj;  through  the  air,  and  from  the  prows 


^'.^-:'- 


">*'.■•■  v''-V 


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^^,^' 


HEATHER  lAKK  AND  MOUNIAIN  SCENERY  ABOUT  LAKE  TAHOE 


II 


I  i 


O 


o 


o 


'•'fl 


ICE  FORMATION  AT  HOOT  OH  BRIDAL  VEIL  HALLS. 


NEVADA   FALLS,   YOSEMITE. 


iSS 


\Mi;i>MC\'S  WONDI'RI.ANDS. 


of  ><\vift-m(i\ ill],' i-r.iftt, '*lu'fis  (if  I'll', Ill-it  j'l.ir.s  rtinii  tn  lu'  inlliiiy  away.     Many  iKMiitifiil  I'ottaycs  air  Imill  alllll^,' tlic  >liiiif,  llu' Miiiinii'r 
liuiiii-*  I'l  wialtliN  Calili'Miiaii'-,  ami  in  siasdii  the  lake  i-.  aiiiiiiali'  with   Imats  and  llir  luaili  aii'.i'  with  |ilraMiif  jiaitiis, 

A  littk'  wa>  wist  of  Triiikii',  and  thur  miles  from  thi  mail,  is  lldiiiiir  I.aki',  a  licaiitifiil  lioily,  i)nl  i-liirlly  famous  for  llii'  tragic 
liisiorx  wliiih  is  i-oiiiuiiid  with  it.  'riu'  >ton  ,111  liriti,  is  this:  In  the  wiiitir  of  I'<lti-I7,  ,1  imMn  of  viyhlN-lwo  rmi^;r.iiils,  wliili'  on  thi-ir 
way  til  Califonii.i,  ^^^rl•  owit.ikiii  \<\  .1  simw-stiiiiii  wiiiie  iiu'ainpid  on  the  shore  ol  tin-  lake,  and  of  the  niiinlier  thirty-six  perished  t)f 
st.irwitioii.  .\  j;h.i'-tly  tale  of 
eaniiil>.ili>ni  is  told  of  the  sur- 
vivors, .111(1  tile  whole  tran^'dy  is 
emha  lined  in  ilret  Marie's 
novel  of  "Ci.iliriil  ConroN.'' 
liesjdes  these  two  more  eele- 
hr.iled  bodies  of  w.iter  ne.ir 
Trnekee,  there  are  i'vv.miid, 
.\n;^(lilie,  .Silver,  and  I'.di^.ide 
lakes,  all  near  liy,  and  are  more 
or  les-.  i"i]iiil.ir  resorts,  parlii  n- 
larl\-  with  lisliiiijj;  p.irlies. 

.\>  Wf  jiroceed  ll|i  the 
Sierr.is  the  cold  inere.ises.  iinlil 
when  the  town  of  .Siiinniit  i-- 
reaehed  snow  lies  iijion  the 
j;roniid  thron^liont  the  \(  11, 
and  it  is  |ier|Kliial  winti  r  tlu  u  , 

7,1 feet  above  the  sea.      'I'lie 

route  is  for  many  miles  enclosed 
by  snow-sheds,  bnt  the  sncw- 
plow  has  ]ilint\  of  wurk  to  do 
in  keeping;  the  inlerwils  cle.iv. 
I'omierly  this  work  w.is  jki- 
formed  by  three  or  four  en,!L,'iiu  s 
piishinn'  a  bi^,-  machine,  soiiu - 
what  resemblin.y;  .-i  shovel-board 
plow,  ihroiif^h  the  hea\y  b.mks 
of  snow,  but  it  is  now  nupic 
sjieedily  and  effectively  accom- 
plished b\'  a  rotary  siiow-jdow. 


UONNKH   I.AKI-;,  \E\\>  TRIJCKEK.  CALIFORNIA. 


he   in. u  Mine    1- 


fact,  a  ).;ianl   .in^er,  which   is   run  by  steam  supplied  by  the  eii^jines  behind 
its  wa\  lhidn;,di  tin    drifts,  throwinj.;  the  snow  at  an  allele  <if  forty-five  decrees,  and  nilh  a  force 
snfTieient  to  deposit  it  fifty  fii  t  frcpiii  tin-  track. 

The  road  begins  to  descend  rapidly  after  lea\iny  Snmmil,  bnt  the  most  wonderful  scenery  in  all  California  is  jia.ssed  in  the  next  li><t 


as  shown   111  one  ol  our  iilnstratiou 
it,  and  beiuj;  set  in  motion,  rapidlv  1 


Ill 


AOASSIZ  COLUMN,  YOSEMITE. 


TIIK    PASSACK-WAY    AROUN!)  CAPli    HOKN. 


I 


190 


, 


torn  out  l)v  the  hand  of  the 


AMKRIC A'S  WOXDKRLAX DS. 

luilrs.  Donni-r's  Peak  comes  into  vi.w  as  the  first  snsjijeslion  of  a  dreaillnlly  ImnnUnons  condition  of  nature,  wnnijjht  liy  tlic  ^rcat  j;hicicrs 
that  in  the  earlv  centuries  came  <;rindinK  their  way  over  tlie  monnlains.  There  is  lunij^rant  Cap,  throuj;li  which  the  first  j;"I<l-seekcrs 
found  their  way  into  the  Colden  \'aliey,  and  American  Canon,  alou';  the  dizzy  edjje  of  which  the  train  runs  at  a  free  and  almost  reckless  ])ace. 
Tlic  way  is  broken  with  qnarrelin,i,'  cascades,  fast-dashinj;  creeks  and  beautiful  blue  canons,  in  which  an  autumn  haze  ])er|)itiially  liuKcrs. 
Ciant's  Caji,  in  the  American  Canon,  is  a  vast  rent  in  an  opposing  mountain,  that  looks  like  it  might  have  been  ti 
Thunder   dod  to   make  a  wav 


for  the  trolls.  Chasm  after 
chasm  couies  iiuo  view  with 
grandeur  and  awlulness  .is  a 
background  until  ]nesently  the 
train  runs  out  on  a  ledge  that 
appears  to  passengers  inside  the 
coaches  to  ha\e  no  nmre  sul)- 
stanlial  support  than  a  bank  i>l 
clouds.  We  are  ava\-  up  Ingh 
on  the  breast  of  a  mouinaiii  tli.it 
shoots  ujnvard  l'.ikmi  feet  per- 
pendicularly, ;.iul  looking  out  of 
the  car  windows  there  is  noth- 
ing but  ekiuds  bowling  along  on 
the  same  level,  and  below  for- 
ests of  pine,  stunted  by  distance, 
until  the  trees  are  110  bigger 
than  whisk-brooms,  and  .\meri- 
can  River  is  a  while  thread  not 
too  large  to  run  through  the  eye 
of  a  darning-needle.  Tins  is 
Cape  Horn,  where  tlie  ledge  is 
so  precipitous  that  in  making 
the  ro.id-bed  it  was  necessary 
to  lower  the  first  workmen  liy 
means  of  ropes,  which  were 
held  fast  at  the  suniniit  while 
the  susiH-nded  nun  jilied  their 
])icks  and  crow-bars  until  a 
footing  was  made. 

After  leaving  Cape  Horn,  and  passing  many  relics  of  early  mining  day.s:  holes  in  the  ground,  decaying  sluice-boxes,  long  flumes, 
tumble-down  shanties,  and  a  few  hydraulic  works,  the  road  gains  the  Sacramento  Valley,  where  the  pa.s.sengcrs  are  met  by  a  burst  of 
sunshine  th.it  makes  the  land  laugh  with  plenty,  and  fills  every  heart  with  gl.adness.  The  air  is  fragrant  with  the  almond  and  orange,  and 
wlie.e  husbandry  has  not  covered  the  broad-spreading  acres  with  grain  or  vineyards,  there  are  flowers  of  a  thousand  hues,  and  butterflies  of 


SNOW  SHOVHI.HRS  CIITTINP,   A   RI.Or.KAOl:   ON   THH   SIKRRA   NHVAlJAS. 


■ 


UPPER   YOSEMITE  HAILS   IN  WINTER. 


VIEW  OF   AMERICAN   RIVER  CaRON,   IN   THE  SIERRAS 


I      , 


nil 


ll 


I 


'  ""11 

'  ,i!ir 


192 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


correspondinjj  colors.  The  early  eniijjrants  from  the  Ivast,  who  soujjlit  fortune  on  the  Pacific  slope  after  the  jj"''!  discoveries  of  l.SlS-4!), 
found  a  paradise  in  the  frai^rant  and  prolitic  valley  of  the  Sacrauicnto,  which,  beautifui  at  all  times,  was  to  them,  after  a  journey  of  almost 
unbearable  hardships  across  the  burninsj;  sands  of  the  American  Desert,  a  re.y;ion  of  incomparable  delijjht.  There  is,  indeed,  no  contrast  in 
all  nature  so  sudden  and  so  great  as  that  afforded  between  Nevada  and  California,  the  line  of  separation  beiug  the  Sierras.  Out  of  the  arid 
plains,  a  very  ocean  of  vcrdureless  desolation,  the  road  ri.ses  rapidly  to  altitudes  of  perpetual  snow  and  into  forests  of  pine  that  cover  the 
sides  of  fearful  ]irecipices,  the 
peaks  of  towcrinjj  nuMuitains 
and  the  jaws  of  \awniui; 
chasms;  then  it  swuops  down 
ajjain  into  a  laud  of  perennial 
bloom,  the  anlitliesis  of  that  of 
the  eastern  desert,  whire,  in- 
stead of  parchintj,  the  sun 
revivifies  and  forces  into  friiil- 
a};e  orchards,  vineyards,  proves, 
jjardens,  and  fields,  makin.y;  the 
land  one  of  teeiuiny;  iiUiily, 
and  jdvfiil  with  sim;j;  of  bird, 
flash  ol  stream,  <;k-am  of  <;(ilik-n 
grain,  and  resonant  with  the 
laughiug  chorus  of  exuberant 
'.lature.  More  fortunes  have 
been  won  In-  aid  of  the  Ime  .md 
sickle  wielded  in  this  ehanuiiiij 
\  alley  than  were  ever  y;ained  by 
means  of  Jiick,  flume  and  mekrr 
on  the  harsh  mountain  siiit-, 
where  the  gold-seekers  ha\e 
toiled  so  hopefully  for  foilv 
years,  and  in  a  great  majority 
of  cases  s])cul  their  strength 
without  reward. 

The  first  time  that  I  crosscl 
the  Sierras  was  in  earl\-  aiUuinu, 
before  the  crisp  air  had  begun 
to   clip   the  leaves,    and   when 


A  HOI\in  SNOVVPI.OW  CUTTING  THROt'OH   A      lOrKADE  ON  THE  SIERRAS. 


Nevada  appeared  to  be  swept  with  a  stifling  atmosphere;  hot,  dusty  and  dreary  was  the  ])ale  sands,  and  the  gray  sage-brush  was  withered 
as  by  a  simoom's  breath;  I  wondered  why  tourists,  on  pleasure  bent,  should  make  such  a  journey.  Then  out  of  the  jilaiii  of  dearth,  and  up 
the  mountains  we  sped;  sud('  nly,  as  it  were,  the  atmosphere  grew  chill,  flakes  of  snow  began  to  descend;  the  way  led  out  of  hot  summer 
into  severe  winter,  and  the  udscape  became  a  picture  of  tumult,  mighty,  wonderful  and  picturesque.  Then  we  rolled  down  the  Sierras 
into  a  land  of  indescribable      .luty,  into  a  garden  as  lovely  as  that  of  Hesperides — and  the  answer  was  plain. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

OUR  JOURNEY  THROUGH  PICTURESQUE  REGIONS  OF  THE  NORTHWEST. 

INTIvR  had  been  spfnt  in  tlic  venial  cliiiiale  of  New  Mexieo,  Arizona  and  Califiirnia,  and  we  liad  so  nicely  calculated  onr  work 
tiiat  wlien  April  arrived  we  were  readv  for  ex])l()rations  in  northern  fields,  .\ccordiiisjly,  early  in  that  niontli,  we  took  onr 
departnre  from  San  I'raneisco,  over  the  California  and  ()rej;on  Railroad  ([jroperty  of  the  Sonthern  Pacific),  to  pliotoj^raph  the 
natural  wonders  of  the  extreme  northwest.  The  road  which  we  had  thus  selected  is  one  of  the  most  chariiiin!L;ly  pictiires<iiie  in 
.\nierica,  abounding  as  it  does  with  an  infinite  variety  of  beautiful  valUys,  leaping  cascades,  roaring  waterfalls,  siiow-ca])ped 

moniitains,  and  abyssnial  canons 
that  are  \vrap])ed  in  eternal 
darkness. 

.\fter  leaving  Sacramento, 
the  route  follows  the  Sacra- 
mento \'alley,  through  a  inar- 
\elor.sly  fertile  district,  cleft 
by  an  exciuisite  stream  that 
bellows,  gnslies,  gurgles  and 
rambles  in  a  devious  way  fnmi 
snminerlcss  peaks,  tlir<  iigli 
blossoming  vales,  and  down 
mellow  meadows,  until  it  drops 
into  the  arms  of  the  sea. 

I!ey(Hid  Chico,  northward, 
the  scenery  becomes  rajiidly 
more  rugged,  until  we  plunge 
into  the  Siskiyou  range,  and 
apparently  become  tangled  up, 
so  tortuous  is  the  wav.  Time 
and  ag.iin  the  road  overhqis 
itself  ill  winding  up  the  steeps, 
leaps  across  yawuing  cliasms 
on  lofty  steel  bridges,  and 
dashes  into  tuuuels  that  for  a 
while  appear  to  le.id  directly  to 
the  center  of  the  nuder-world. 
Hut  on  every  side,  where  dav- 
light  reveals  the  turbulent  hmd- 
scape,  there  is  much  to  excite 


10,^ 


HIOH  SIBRRAS  AND  SUSIE  LAKE,  AN  ARM  OF  LAKE  TAIIOE. 


t'li 


•  ( 


'      ■llll' 

'       nil 

I  . 


nr 


■I'i 


!'' 


nil 


I 


""II 

:i    i.ir 


196 


AMERICA'S  \V0XDP:RLA\DS. 


wonder  irid  to  k-iid  siiriirise.  A  liiiiidrfd  iiiiks  before  wo  come  abreast  of  Mount  .Shasta,  the  sunliKlited  bead  of  that  inatnnioth  peak  );liiits 
and  glistens  with  a  weirdly  jjranil  effect  npon  the  adniirinj;  eyes  of  approacliii  ^  tra\elers.  There  it  stands,  apparently  shifting  from  one 
side  of  the  track  to  the  other  as  we  wind  aroinid  anmnj;  the  .Hordes  and  creep  np  the  slopes,  but  always  a  chief  anitMig  mountains  and 
counnander  amonj;  the  clonds.  Sissons  is  the  nearest  station  to  the  Ljiant  peak,  and  here  we  stojjped  to  make  some  ])hotogra|)hs  and  gather 
information.  The  base  of  Shasta  is  exceedingly  broau,  co\ering  as  it  does  a  circumference  of  seventy-llee  miles,  and  its  hoary  head  is  lifted 
up  11,000  feet  above  the  sur- 
face, and  14,l.")f>  above  the  se... 
The  greatest  wonder,  however, 
is  not  in  the  mountain's  height 
orsi/c,  Init  in  the  fact  that  it  is 
an  extinct  volcano,  whose  crater 
is  nearlv  one  mile  in  diameter 
and  l,."iOO  flit  dee]).  On  one 
side  there  is  a  rift,  resembling  a 
broken  piece  from  the  rim  of  a 
bowl,  through  which  the  sea  of 
lava  that  boiled  and  seethed  in 
this  devil's  caldron  many  cen- 
turies ;,go,  evidently  broke  ami 
poured  a  burning  flowl  into  the 
vallev,  and  owrlluwed  a  large 
district  oi  country.  This  may 
have  been  done  in  one  of  its  ex- 
piring throes,  for  certainly  there 
are  no  evidences  that  the  vol- 
c.mo  has  been  in  activity  within 
the  past  live  luuidred  years. 

"There  is  a  cold  gray 
light  upon  this  mountain  in 
winter  mornings,  that  even  to 
look  upon,  sends  a  chill  to  the 
very  marrow,  especiallv  if  the 
snow-banner  be  flying;  >et,  per- 
haps at  evening  tide,  when 
twilight  shadows  have  darkened 
the   valley    below,    this    vast 

pyramid  of  hoar  frost  and  storm-swept  ridges  is  transformed  into  a  great  beacon  light  of  gIor\-,  where  the  warm  mellow  light  loves  to  linger; 
where  the  richest  halos  of  gold  and  crim  .on  encircle  it  with  their  loving  bands;  where  the  last  and  best  treasures  of  the  declining  sun  are 
poured  out  in  a  wondrous  profusion,  nr  il  it  is  driven  In  the  night  lavenders  and  grays  beyond  the  horizon;  then,  the  tranquil  light  of  the 
stars  sends  shiuiug  avenues  of  silver  dov  n  its  furrowed,  hoary  slopes;  soon  there  comes  out  from  behind  the  night,  first  a  faint  flash  of  radiant 


IMIRIOR  Ol-  SNOW  SHED,  SIERRA  NEVADA  MOUNTAINS. 


\n  I 


nil 
i-ir 


VIEW  OF  MT.  SHASTA  FROM  SISSONS.  CALIFOHNIA, 


h 


198 


AMl'RICA'S  \V(  )NDKRLA\DS. 


.'  ihrr  tli.it  Kii'-""'*  acriiss  tlic  sky  and  dims  tlu'  lij;lit  of  tin-  stars,  the  liifjliiT  jieaks  aro  atlatne  with  St.  I\liii<)  fin.',  ami  slowly  from  spire  to 
.-l)irc,  am'  Imm  riili;e  to  riilye,  this  im'.iiuUsiviit  tlood  swccjis  on  until  the  whole  mountain  jjlows  and  ;;leanis  with  a  li),'ht  su])ernat\iral." 

.Xiiotlur  particularly  wonder'ul  n.itiu.il  attraction  on  the  line  of  this  road  are  the  Chalyheate  Soda  vSprinjjs,  which  furnish  an 
unfailiiii;  supply  of  uiiucral  watir,  cipial  to  the  Inst  that  is  hottk-d  for  the  bar  and  picnic  tr.ide.  When  taken  fresh  from  the  spring;,  it  has 
the  appi.ir.incc  of  ch.nnp.ii;iR-,  which,  indeed,  it  resend)les  in  taste;  and  so  stron^dy  chari^^ed  is  the  water  with  carbonic  acid  jjas,  that  it  will 
hold  its  ll.iNor  as  louj^  as  any 
e\lr.i-dr\'  «iiu'. 

Xc.ir  these  rcmarkalile 
spriuj^s  are  the  .Mossbrae  I-'alls, 
which  come  sliding;  over  the 
lol'ty  b.uiks  of  the  .S.icr.imcMto 
in  sheets  of  limpid  w.Uer  th.it 
look  like  L;las>,  ami  li.nc  a 
spread  of  nearly  half  a  mile. 
The  f.ill  varies  in  height  from 
lift)-  to  one  liundriil  feet,  l)Ut 
is  siirpri-;ii;,;ly  luautiliil  .it 
every   ])oint. 

Alter  crossiiij^  Siskivou 
Mount. lius,  the  ro.id  <U'>ceiids 
by  a  spir.il  w.i\'  until  it  strikes 
KoLjne  \',illi-\  ,  thence  tllidUi;h 
Crt. lilt's  I'.iss  and  .i;''i"s  the 
Willamette  \'.ille\ ,  which  is  a 
level  e\  pause  of  e\ceedinj;ly 
j;reat  Icrtilitv'.  The  ride  to 
Portland  o\er  the  rest  of  the 
way  is  inlercstinj;,  not  so  much 
for  the  diversity  of  scenery,  as 
lor  the  scenes  of  thrift  and  jiros- 
]ierity  wl.ich  lie  on  both  sides, 
for  the  country  is  a  very  Ivdeu 
of  productiveness. 

I'ortl.ind,  which  lies  near 
the  junction  of  the  Oilumbia 
with  the  Willamette  River,   is 

one  of  the  handsomest  cities  on  earth,  situated  in  one  of  the  most  attractive  rcj,Mous  that  the  eye  of  the  traveler  ever  pazed  ttpon.  From  a 
high  point  in  the  western  suburbs,  "gained  by  a  cable-road,  a  view  may  he  had  greater  than  that  which  Quarantaria  offers.  To  the  west 
broadens  the  united  waters  of  the  two  rivers,  floatiuj;  the  cDinnierce  of  this  vigorous  city  to  and  from  the  .sea.  And  in  the  clear  atmosphere 
to  the  east  rise  like  giants  out  of  a  plain  the  lefty  peaks  of  Hood,  St.  Helen's,  Adam's  and  Ranier,  upon  whose  brows  eternal  snows  beat 


SACRAMENTO  CAFiON,  CALIFORNIA. 


) 'I 
(I 


!;i 


III) 

ir 


MOSSBRAE   FALLS,   ALONG  THE   SACRAMENTO. 


i!  . 

-'    ! 


200 


AMI'.KIC  'S  WONDKRLANDS. 


•'i! 


nil 


'  1! 


STRAWNAHAN'S  FALLS,  ON  SIDB  Ol"   MOUNT   HOOD. 


MULTLNOMAH   FALLS,  OREGON. 


I 
II ' 


20  2 


AMHRICA'S  \V()\I)I-;RI,.\N-1)S. 


as  twiMilv-fivo  fi'i-t,  I'Vi'ii  .It  it--  \vi(li>t  pl.K'is,  ^u^\  Ihiki'  wo  iiia\    im.i;;iiii'  wli.it  .1  i.i.niiiv;  toniiil  il  liiconus;  tint   it  low-w.itii  tlii'  DmIIcs  arc 
a  siicci'.sioii  111  iMMMdis  111  till'  iM(i>t  liiautilul  iirii|Mirtiiiiis,  tnUiii),'  in  sliiits  nf  lUaii-st  w.itir,  ii\ir  li'iraci'S  of  >|nin'  as  ri'^iilar  as  tli(iii^;li  tlu\ 


h 


111 


luiii  la 


id  1i\   till'  lianil  111  a  tiiasn 


I'liMM  till'  Dalles  iluwii,  till'  livir  plnws  its  \va\-  tlinm^'li  tlio  Casiacic  Mniintains,  wliiili  on  citluT  .side  apiiiar  like  IowitimI  hattlr- 
iiiiiits,  uliili'  watiil'all  alttr  watirfall  pour  tlliir  trilmtc  down  tlir  tiioiint.iin  sides  to  swell  the  on-llowin^;  stream.     TweKe  miles  below  is 


Meni.doose  Isl.uid,  wliiell  is  tile  amient  tmri.il  phiee  of  tile  CI 


Ilk  Iiidi.iiis,  who  held  it 


red  slHit,  mi  irded,  as  they  niaiiit, lined,  liv 


.spirits  of  the  ri\er.      The  v;or,s;e   pro]iir  hej^'iiis  twiiil\  miles  below  the   D.illes,  ami  lhirt>   inilis  Inrther  are  the  easi'ades,  but  between  these 


there  is 


an  iiu'omp.ir.ilile  p.iim- 


r.ini.i   of  jL;raudeiir  and    beaiitv  , 
for  the  ri\er  is  broken  b\'  manv 


K'iaiit 


liow  Idel- 


all 


11111(1    wllii'h 


the  swifl-nishinjL;  w.iter  is  l.isiied 
iiiui  fiir\.     Still  further  below, 


ul 


the  lie.Nl  interval  of 


six  miles,  where  ]iort.i;;e  by  r.iil 
is  neeess.iry,  the  seeuery 
becomes  e\eu  more  excpiisite, 
with  islamls  ih.it  are  so  wiiul- 
swept  as  to  be  entirely  de\(iid 
of  ve].;etali(iu,  while  scores  of 
lovelv  f.ills  line  the  riser,  such 
as  Ibirse-T.iil,  a  i-le.irK  difined 
stream  th.it  pours  down  .1  lieiL;lit 
of  I'liil  feet,  and  .Multinomah,  a 
strip,  or  veil,  of  .spra\ ,  ill. it  (.ills 
■S.'iO  feet  iierpeiidicnl.irly.  Tlu  re 
otiieis  almost 
lic.iuti- 
ful,    such    as   liridal    Wil    and 


are,  besides  th 
eipialh'   surprisiii;^ 


Oneouta,  both   of   wliiili    dash 


down    over    c 


lilfs    1 


inllianll  V 


jjreeii  with  mosses,  and  are 
reflected  in  their  full  leii.L;tli  in 
the  cr\stalliue  river  into  whiih  tlu\   fall,  while  the  soft  coloring'  of  bluest   sk\  and  bleiidiiij^  tints  of  emerald   ]iiiies  j,Mve  to  tlic  scene  an 


Wll  I  \\\I  ril-;   I  Al  IS,  OKHilON. 


intimation  of  fairy-land.    Just  lii 


•l! 


lese,  in  stately  ]irocessioii,  are  Castle  Rock,  tliat  shoots  up  l,IMH)  feet;   Rooster  Rock,  a  ili/zv  pinnacle 


of  .stone  amid-stream;  Ca|ie  Horn,  frowninj;  from  shore,  and  lifting  its  brow  ano  feet  above  the  river,  while  the  I'illars  of  Hercules,  twin 
.shafts  of  basalt,  };rand,  massive  and  sublime,  act  as  jjnardians  before  this  watery  realm  of  wonderland. 

Twenty-fivt  miles  from  the  palisades,  and  reached  by  means  of  comfortable  .stages  over  a  };ood  road,  is  Mount  Hood,  one  of  the 


loftiest,  as  well  as  the  most  impressive,  dead  volcanoes  to  be  found  anvwhere  in  the  world,  of  which  it  has  been  writtei 


The 


from 


the  summit  of  Hood  is  one  of  niisnrp.issed  graiukur,  and  jirobably  includes  in  its  range  a  greater  uiuubcr  of  high  peaks  anil  vast  moiiiitaia 


DELLS  OF  THE  COLUMBIA,  AND  MOUNT  HOOD  IN  THE  DISTANCE. 


204 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXUS. 


chains,  j;raiul  forests  and  mighty  mors,  than  any  other  nicnintain  in  North  America.  Looking  across  the  Cohunhia,  the  jjhostly  pyramids 
of  Adams  and  St.  Hcliii,  with  their  conneetini;  ridi.;es  of  eternal  .snow,  first  cateli  tlie  eye;  then  comes  the  .-;!'  nt,  lofty  Kanicr,  with  the 
bine  Walters  of  l'n.i;et  Sonnd  and  the  nn;,>;ed  Olynipia  Monntains  for  a  haektjronnd;  and  away  to  the  extreme  north  (  nearly  to  H.  15.  M.'s 
dominions),  veiled  in  earth  mists  and  sc.ireely  discernible  from  the  towering  cnnudi  that  inswathc  it,  lies  Monut  IJaker.  I,ookiti}?  .south 
over  Oregon,  the 
view  eniliraoes 
the  Three  vSis- 
ters  ( .ill  at  one 
time  I,  Jefferson, 
Diamond  Peak, 
Seott,  I'it,  and, 
if  it  be  a  favor.i- 
ble  day,  and  you 
h  .1  \' e  a  i;oo(l 
glass,  yon  may 
.see  Shasl.i,  l'.MI 
miles  awa\.  The 
we-tward  \  iew  is 
down  o\e''  I  lie 
lower  coast 
ranj^e,  the  fmp- 
(|na,  Cal.iiHK.ya, 
and  Roi^ne  Ri\er 
.Mounl.iins,  with 
their  sunny  np- 
l.md  \alli>\s.  and 
.iway  out  o\er 
the  restless 
ocean.  In  the 
opposite  direc- 
tion, across  tlie 
idiniitable  plains 
of  Maslern  ( )re- 
gon.to  the  .\znre 
lilue  .Mountains; 
down,  almost  to 
the  foot    of  tliis 

mountain.  '  rolls  the  Coluiidiia,"  tlirou,i;h  the  narrow 
entire  length  of  the  gre.it  VVillaniLlte  \'.ille\  ,  with  its 


mosaics,  with  borders  of  dark- 


NAIl'KAl     PIII.AkS,   COLUMBIA    klVKK. 

iu;^.;ed  j.;"'Kt'  <'f  'The  Halles,'  2.'"il)  miles  < J  its  winding  course  being  visible.     The 
le.,s,nit,  pros]ierons  towtis  and  gently-flowing  river,  it.s  bro...:,  fertile  farms,  like  ricji 
reeii  woodlands,  is  spre.ul  out  in  great  beauty  under  the  western  slope  of  Mount  Hood." 


■*'l 


'  iHf 

nil 

i'lr 


2oD 


AMERICA'S  WOXDICRLAXDS. 


'     I 


u 


'I'lic  Coluitiliia  is  not  oiilv  lamed  for  its  ]H'ct1i's>  six-ikia  , 
ami  as  liciii^  a  main  arti.r\  in  racil'ic  coast  comnKii-t.',  Inil  it  is 
fciiiail\-  noti'il  as  alfonlini;  llii.'  most  profitable  salmon  tisliini;  in 
tlie  world.      Ilnndrids  of  jicopk'  are  en^ai^ed  in  this  indnstr\\ 


and  vast  weallli   lias  lieei 


iissol   1> 


,ime  of  tile  laiije  com- 


panies  who    run    immense    canneries   in   connection    with   the 


fisheries.    At  ci 


seasons  the  fish  ap]Har  in  snch  prodiyions 


luunlicrs,  on  th.ir  w.iy  np  stre.un  to  the  spawninj;  j.;ronn( 


that  th' 
success 


most  crowil  each  other  out  of  the  water.     The  most 
fill  w.iv  of  takiiiii  the  fish  at  such  times  is  li\-  the  use  of 


attached   to   the  end  of  a   .--cow,   whic 


inotitni,  scoop  them  np  and  depo>ii  t 


h,   heiiii;  set 
the  boat,  and 
honr.     The  fi^ 


rapidlv  that  tlionsands  are  thus  taken  in 

continue  their  run  up-stream  as  f.irasthe  water  will  allow,  and 

so  <letenniiied  are  tlley  lh.it  they  perform   many    ama/iii!:;    fe.its 

to  ^MU  the   he.iilwalers,  crossing;  sho.ils,  dartiiijL;  throiiy;li*tlie 

swiftest  casc.ides,  and  e\en  le 

erable  hei'dit.      The  Indians, 


miil  tip  and  o\ 


er  falls  of 


(ami! 


ilmoii.  in  tl 


lar  with  tile   instincts  ol  the 
Ml  t.ike  irreat  nninbers  In   nie.ins  of  >]icar>, 


which   tlie\-  ca^t   with   astoni>liiii''  accnrac\  . 


)lace    is    Salmon    IviUs,   where 


Ih. 


.\    chief   fi>liin;4 
a   mile  wide  and 


plnn>;cs  over  a  wall  full)'  twenty  fiet  lii.^li,  extendin,!.;  from 
shore  to  shore.  N'otw  ithsl.indiin^  this  luii^lu.  the  s.ilnioii 
gather  ill  the  whirlpool  below  and  siiddciiK  d.iit  np  the  f.ills 
like  a  llash  of  li!.;hl,  their  t.iiK  wa\iii:.;  with  siuli   rajiiditv  tli.it 


tllev  are   earned  up 


and   o\er  the   tails.      It    is 


niaki 


these  leaps  that  the  Indians  spe.ir  the  fish,  killini;;:  imiiieiise 
tuinihcrs,  not  onl\'  for  food,  but  thron.;.;li  sheer  w.iiitouiiess,  ,u 
times  fairh'  lilliiii.;  the  river  with  the  dead  bc.uities. 


Ilef. 


\   SIlJi:  TRIP    lO   CRAIKK    \.\K\: 


.S.iii 


photoi^raphi 


expressed  a  \ery   j;reat  desire   to  \i^it   Crater    Lake,  one  of  the 
larkable  bodies  of  water  on  the  f.ice  of  the  earth,  and 


most  reiiia 
so  nr^jent 


were  his  pleadiiii;s,  th.it   it   was  ( 


lecide 


shou 


make  the  trip,  while  the  rest  of  the  p.irty  continued  on  to 
Portland,  to  perform  the  work  of  pliotoLrraphiii<r  ]Miiiit>  of 
interest  thereabouts,  and  on  the  Columbia  Ri\er.  In  pursu- 
ance of  this  arraii„'eineiit,  he  left  ns  at  a  station  called  .Medford, 
on  the  Sontheni  Pacific    Railroad,  and   fruni  that  pl.ice  rode 


ONEONTA   f.ORGH,   COI  (iMRIA    KIVI 


'1H 


Mi;, 


IMI' 


'III,, 

iir 


■^™pp 


208 


AMERICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


I  I 


over  to  Jacksonville,  capital  of  Jack>ion  county,  Orcijon,  a  distance  of  five  miles,  to  make  liis  preparations  for  a  journey  to  the  lake. 
Jacksonville  is  a  town  of  about  l,i»H)  inlial)itauts,  off  the  railroad,  but  on  the  military  road  that  leads  to  Crater  Lake,  some  seventy  miles 
distant  northeast,  and  thence  to  Fort  Klaniath.  It  was  not  difTicnlt  to  procure  necessary  conveyance,  but  for  safety  it  was  deemed  advisable 
to  pack  tlie  cameras  on  a  donkey,  probably  the  surest-footed  and  most  reliable  animal  that  ever  submitted  back  to  a  burden.  Three  men 
accompanied  our  photojjrapher,  with  one  road-wa^'on  and  a  li.ijht  buj;i;y,  haulinjj  the  necessary  campinji;  outfit,  and  beinjj  well  prepared, 
the  party  started  from  Jacksonville  on  the  I.'ilh  of  April,  IMi'l.  The  road  follows  Ro^iie  River  the  entire  distance,  along  which  is  some 
very  beautiful  scenery,  and  not 
a  few  wild  jjor^es,  which  were 
photo.(;raphed.  There  are  a 
number  of  post-offices  on  the 
way,  Deskins  beiuy;  the  most 
northern,  beyond  which,  and 
for  nearly  thirty  miles,  to  the 
lake,  there  is  a  wilderusss  of 
inouutaiu  and  canon,  uuielie\i;d 
by  any  si;^Mis  of  human  habita- 
tion. Crater  Lake  is  in  the 
western  part  of  Klamath 
count)',  and  is  in  the  Klamath 
Indian  reservation,  a  rci^Mon 
that  is  distinctively  volcanic, 
di\ersified  by  lakes,  marshes 
and  mountains,  with  the  soil  so 
mixed  with  scori;e  that  it  is 
harsh  and  unproductive.  It 
ivas  not  until  noon  of  the  sec- 
ond day  that  the  viciuit\-  of  the 
lake  was  reached,  approach  to 
it  beins;  in<licated  by  a  bank  of 
clouds  that  liuiii^  o\er  one  spot, 
like  a  fojjf  jj;radually  liftintj, 
beneath  which  was  manifestly 
a  lar<;e  bodv  of  water.  A  suita- 
ble   cami.iu-    place    was    sonn  CASCADES  or  Tlin  cni  fV.RiA. 

f(mnd,  and  the  tent  beiu),'  set  up  and  dinner  disposed  of,  the  work  of  explorinj,'  and  iiliotoijraphinsr  the  lake  was  cnerj,'etically  begun. 
I'ortnnateh-,  the  weather  was  jiropitious  and  the  season  favorable,  for  otherwise  cl.iniberiug  over  so  ron<.;li  a  region  with  the  precious  burden 
of  delicate  cameras  would  have  been  next  to  impossible.  The  snow  falls  to  very  great  depths  on  the  high  ridge  which  surromids  the  lake, 
and  s|)ring  rains  are  at  times  so  heavy  here  that  the  precipitous  sides  are  gashed  deeply  by  the  cataracts  thus  pniduced. 

The  Kl.amath  Indians  have  niauv  traditions  alu.ut  the  lake,  (uie  of  which  is  to  the  effect  that  in  earlier  years  it  was  the  haunt  of 
great  numbers  of  water-devils,  who  watcluil  its  shores  and  drew  into  its  ni>  sterions  depths  all  luckless  persons  who  ventured  near  its  banks. 


I  i 


uiir 


j  ii! 


VIEW  OK  CRATER  LAKE   AND  WIZARD  ISLAND. 


2IO 


AM p:rica's  wonderlands. 


E I  i  ' 


I II 


•  I 


I'or  this  reason  it  was  ii<it  until   recently  that  any  Indian  could  he  prevailed  upon,  hy  the  promise  of  however  great  a  reward,  to  approach 
near  the  lake,  thou^'h  they  were  jjlad  to  guide  travelers  to  its  vicinity. 

The  first  sight  of  this  marvelous  body  of  water  excites  unbounded  awe  and  immeasurable  wonder.  The  surface  is  (i.i.'iO  feet  above 
sea  level,  but  notwithstanding  this  great  elevation,  it  is  enclosed  by  cliffs  that  rise  from  1,000  to  2,000  feet,  and  the  greater  part  are 
vertical.  .\t  times,  \  iewed  from  the  summit  of  the  walls,  both  the  skies  and  monntainous  surroundings  are  mirrored  in  the  unrippled 
surface  of  the  lake,  until  it  is  really  difficult  to  distinguish  the  line  of  separation  between  the  real  and  the  reflection. 

Crater  Lake  is  egg-sha])ed,  being  seven  miles  in  length  by  six  in  breadth.,  and  in  the  southwest  portion  there  is  an  island  which  ri.ses 
out  of  the  water  to  the  amaz- 
ing height  of  H.'iO  feet.  lint 
this  is  not  its  only  remarkable 
feature,  for  the  island  is  circu- 
lar in  shape,  with  a  scant 
vegetation  on  its  sides,  and  in 
the  center  is  a  crater  known  as 
the  Witch's  Caldron,  which  is 
100  feet  deep  and  nearly  .'idO 
feet  in  circumference.  Here, 
then,  we  have  the  now  smoke- 
less chimney  of  what  was  once 
an  active  volcano,  out  of  which 
poured  a  fiery  mass  that  ran 
down  the  steeps  and  became 
congealed  in  the  lake,  for  the 
base  of  the  island  is  of  ashes 
and  vitrified  rocks,  evidencing 
the  intense  heat  which  once 
prevailed  within  and  around  it. 

On  the  shore,  north  of 
Wizard  Island,  is  a  rock  th.it 
juts  up  l'.OOO  feet,  and  its  side 
is  so  perpendicular  that  one 
.standing  upon  its  summit  can 
drop  a  stone  into  the  lake, 
nearlv  half  a  mile  beneath.      It 


AMONG  THt£   CLOUDS  ON   MOUNT  HOOD. 


is  not  at  all  surjirising  that  this  wonderful  lake  should  be  the  subject  of  much  sui)erstitious  dread  among  the  Klamaths,  and  among  the 
traditions  and  tales  which  these  sim|)le  Indians  tell  is  the  following:  ,\  long  time  ago,  a  band  of  Klamaths,  while  hnntiug  deer,  which 
have  always  been  abundant  in  this  region,  came  suddenly  tipon  the  lake.  They  had  often  traveled  over  the  same  district,  without 
discovering  either  lake  or  depression,  and  now,  suddenlv  beholding  so  large  a  body  of  water,  surrounded  by  towering  walls,  they  perceived 
in  it  the  work  of  the  (ircat  .Sjjirit,  but  were  not  able  to  interpret  its  significance.  .Ml  but  one  of  the  Indians  fled  in  terror  from  the  place, 
but  the  bravest  dctenuined,  if  possible,  to  ascertain  the  wishes  of  the  Great  Spirit,  and,  accordingly,  he  proceeded  to  the  very  brink  of  the 


sJm^'^^^^^P'     .^^^^l^nMI 

1 

4 

^^^^^WnjKj'  ,  V  ^^^^^^B          ^^^B 

^^^^^ 

JB^k  m 

^Ik..^ 

1' 

'^^^^^^^^H^^ 

^^■r 

1 

r 

1 

Ml         ■ 

,'. 

HI 

^H 

I' 

;i 

.4^^^^^^^H|>1 

1 

1 

f. 

H 

^M 

L. 

.  .■  .  i^^^^^^U': 

i^^^l 

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x: 

O 

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UJ 

O 


UJ 


UJ 


Q 

o 

01. 


1/ 


I  i  i 


UK' 

nil 

■! 
'•i||(. 

I   Mir 


m; 


21 2 

loftv 


Ml 

I  il 


walls,  ami  there  built  a  cnniii-firc,  to  wait  the  S]>irit"s 
call.  Li)ii<;  he  waited,  until  weary  at  last  he  lay  down  and 
slept;  while  he  was  thus  slee])inj;  he  had  a  vision  and  heard 
mysterious  voices,  hut  he  was  not  ahle  to  understand  what 
was  said,  or  to  clearly  discern  the  shape  or  appearance  of 
his  unearthly  visitors.  But  as  often  as  he  slept  he  perceived^ 
in  his  dreams,  the  indistinct  forms  of  what  half-appeared  to 
resemble  human  bodies,  and  plainly  heard  voices,  but  they 
were  stran<;e  ton<;ncs.  Charmed  by  these  visions,  the  Indian 
remaii:ed,  day  after  day,  and  week  after  week,  upon  the  preci- 
pice of  the  lake,  leaviuR  his  camp-fire  only  to  slay  a  deer  for 
subsistence,  until  at  length  he  descended  to  the  surface  of  the 
lake  and  bathed  in  its  crystal  and  mysterious  waters.  Instantly 
he  felt  his  strength  marvelously  increased,  and  thereafter  saw 
that  the  weird  visions  of  his  dreams  were  inhabitants  of  the 
lake,  having  human  forms,  but  whether  they  were  spirits  of 
good,  or  de\ils  of  evil,  he  knew  not.  Familiarity,  however,  at 
length  made  him  careless,  and  on  one  occasion  he  caught  a  fish 
in  the  lake,  with  the  intention  of  using  its  flesh  for  food,  but 
no  sooner  had  he  killed  the  fish  than  a  thousand  water-devils 

rose  up  out  of 
the  depths  of 
the  lake,  and, 
seizing  the  un- 
fortunate brave 
carried  him 
through  the  air 
to  the  top  of 
the  cliffs.  Here 
they  cut  his 
throat  and  ca.st 
his  body  head- 
long into  the 
water,  :.',(I00 
feet  below, 
where  it  wasde- 
voured  by  the 
angered  devils. 
The  Kla- 
GROTTO  IN  CRATER  LAKE.  math  Indians 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


PALISADES  OF  THE  COLUMBIA. 


,> 


'<-> 


^^''^  "  .I.J  •'> 


.^^ 


•*4^-.iVv 


■„'   ^-  *■ 


;.,.^#"y 


d;£S^--:ww 


THE  GREAT  GLACIER.  CANADIAN  PACIFIC. 


21} 


AMKRICA'S  WONnKRLANDS. 


I' 

'I 


■<1  lli.it  till'  w.ilor-spiiits  liM(l  not  fulK  silisfu'cl  lliiir  ri'\i'ii,!,'o  !>>■  tliis 


■  hloodv  .ut,  but  would  siiiiilarlv  ik'strov  any  Indian  who  bad 


tilt.'  UiiU'iilv-  to  apiMOi'.cli  till'  l.iki'. 

.War  llio  base  of  a  cliff  on  the  Minth  side  of  the  lake  stands  a  solitary  rock,  probably  UMI  feet  hiKli  by  L'oii  in  leiiKth,  and  nearly  the 
same  in  breadth,  that,  while  not  seen  by  the  ineseiit  generation  of  Indians,  it  is  nevertheless  known  to  theiii,  and  is  a  special  object  of 
sii|iersl  it  ions  dread. 
They  consider  it  as  a 
|)ecnl  i.i  rl  y  ferocious 
monster,  but  are  iniablc 
lo  ilescril)e  its  character- 
istics. It  stands  in  the 
lake,  entirely  alone,  and 
about  fiflv  yards  from 
shore.  SlandiiiK  on  the 
cliffs,  about  t'lve  miles 
to  the  west  and  looking; 
.icross  the  lake,  this 
stranjic  rock    is  plainly 


visilile  111 
its  nii:<'ed 


tl 


lie  siiiili<rht, 


pe; 


iiig  aloft,  j;'\'"K  i'  l'"-' 
api)earance  of  a  fnll- 
ri>,'.!L;ed  slii]>  at  anchor. 
Should  a  cloud  pass 
before  the  siin  as  the 
shadow  strikes  the  rock 
it  will  recede  from  view 
as  effectually  as  thoui^h 
it  had  ceased  to  exist. 
This  illusion  has 
jirompled  .some  one  to 
call  the  rock  the  I'h.in- 
toni  .Ship. 

.Vnolber  equally 
inlcrestiiiH;  optical  illn- 
siou  is  thus  described  b\- 
\V.  CI.  .Steel,  F..\.f'..S., 

who  made  an  exp'oralion  of  the  lake  with  a  corps  of  I'nited  States  surveyors:  ,     _ 

to  what  seemed  to  be  a  tall,  full-lieanled  man  itandiiiy;  on  the  southern  portion  of  IJao  Rock's  summit.  One  foot  was  placed  a  little  forward 
of  the  other  and  the  knee  sli.Ljhtly,  but  naturally  bent,  while  before  him  stood  a  ^nii.  His  hands  were  clasped  over  the  inn/.zle  a.s  he  gazed 
intently  to  the  north.     Just  behind  hiui  stood  a  boy,  apparently  about  fifteen  years  of  age.     They  seemed  entirely  too  natural  not  to  be  flesh 


A   FISHWIIEFJ.   ON   COll'MBIA   RIVER. 

One  day  while  at  work  on  the  lake,  my  attention  was  called 


♦»i 


T  ! 


iiir 
'II 


GREEK  CHURCH   AT  JUNEAU,  ALASKA. 


¥ 


ll 


2l6 


AMHKICA'S  WOXDICRLANDS. 


ami  blood,  ami  yet  persons  at  that  distance  would  not  be  \isil)k'  to  the  naked  eye,  as  we  were  two  miles  ont  on  the  lake.     Day  after  day,  as 
our  work  projjressed,  their  position  remained  the  same,  and  in  the  absence  of  a  better  excuse,  we  decided  them  to  be  trees. 

"  It  is  hard  to  comprehend  what  .m  immense  affair  it  is.  To  those  living;  in  New  York  City  I  would  say,  Crater  I.akc  is  lar^e 
enoUKh  to  have  Manhattan,  Kaudeil's,  Ward's  and  Ulaekwell's  Islands  dropped  into  it  side  by  side,  without  tonchinj;  tile  walls,  or  Chicago 
or  \VashinH:ton  City  mi);ht  do  the  same.  Our  own  fair  city  of  Portland,  with  all  her  suburbs,  from  Cit>'  Park  to  Monnt  Tabor,  and  from 
.Mbina  to  Sellwood  inclusive,  could  find  ample  room  on  the  bottom  of  the  lake.  On  the  other  hand,  if  it  were  possible  to  place  the  lake, 
at  its  iiresent  elevation,  above  either  of  these  cities,  it  would  be  over  a  mile  up  to  the  surface  of  the  water,  and  a  mile  and  lliree-(|uarters  to 
the  top  of  I.lao  Rock.  Of  this  dis- 
tance, the  ascent  would  be  through 
water  for  i,(i(Hl  feet.  To  those  livinn 
in  New  Hampshire,  it  miH:ht  be  said 
the  surface  of  the  water  is  twenty-three 
feet  hij^her  than  the  summit  oi  Mount 
Washin^'tou." 

The  shore  of  Crater  Lake  has 
many  remarkable  indentations  of 
slender  arms  and  be.iiili fully  formed 
ba\ s,  and  on  one  side  llure  is  a  j^rotto 
ruuuinj,'  back  some  thirty  feet  and 
twenty  feet  inside,  spamied  by  a  ^ruce- 
ful  arch  abmit  ei^lit  feet  llinh,  fonn- 
iuj^  an  admirable  sIkIut  as  well  as  a 
curious  alcove  in  the  rock,  where  the 
water  is  some  twelve  feet  dee|).  The 
lake  itself  measures  a  little  more  than 
2,000  feet  in  depth  in  places,  but 
soundiujjs  show  that  there  are  peaks 
below  the  surface  representing,'  cinder 
cones,  and  which  once  evidently  stood 
hijjh  above  the  surface.  The  whole 
lake  is  thus  a  reminder  of  mighty 
forces  and  the  relic  of  terrible  con- 
vulsions. What  an  innneu.se  affair  it 
must  have  been  aj,'es  upon  ajjes  ajjo,  when,  lonj;  before  the  hot  breath  of  a  volcano  soiled  its  hoary  head,  standing  as  a  jiroud  monarch, 
with  its  feet  upon  the  earth  ar.d  its  head  in  the  heavens,  it  towered  far,  far  above  the  mountain  ranjjes,  aye,  looked  far  down  upon  the 
snowy  peaks  of  Hood  and  Shasta,  and  snuffed  the  air  beyond  the  reach  of  Kvcrest.  Then  streams  of  fire  began  to  shoot  forth,  great  seas  of 
lava  were  hurled  upon  the  earth  beneath.  The  elements  seemed  bent  u])on  establishing  hell  upon  earth  and  fi.xing  its  throne  upon  this 
great  mountain.  .\t  last  its  foundation  gave  away  and  it  sank  forever  from  sight.  Down,  down,  down  deep  into  the  bowels  of  the  earth, 
leaving  a  great,  black,  smoking  chasm,  which  succeeding  ages  filled  with  pure,  fresh  water,  giving  to  our  day  and  generation  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  lakes  within  the  knowledge  of  man. 


SUMMIT  OF   MOUNT  SAINT  HEI.FNS,   ABOVR  THE  CLOUDS. 


'f 


2l8 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


I  I 


It  may  in  truth  be  (locl.ircd  tliat  Crater  Lake  is  one  of  tlie  K^'Klf!*'  points  of  interest  on  earth.      Here  all  the  inj^eniiity  of  nature 

seems  to  have  l)ii.ii  exeiteil  to  the  fullest  capacity  to  build  one  jjranil,  awe-inspirin>f  temple  within  which  to  live  and  from  which  to  gaze 

upon  the  stirroiinilinj;  world  and  say:     "Here  would  I  dwell  and  live  forever.     Here  would  I  make  my  home  front  choice;  the  universe  is 

my  kin<;doni,  and  this  niv  throne." 

AWAY  TO  THH  NORTH,  AND  THKNC.E  TO  ALASKA. 

Our  trip  up  the  Columbia,  and  along  the  Willamette  as  far  as  Willaaiette  Kails,  was  delightful  beyond  any  one's  ability  to  describe; 
but  though  woniler  succeeded 
wonder,  and  kejH  us  as  under 
a  spell  (if  enclumtuieut,  there 
were  other  surprises  in  store 
which  were  to  hold  our  interest 
and  oven  add  something  to  our 
astonishniont.  Relurniug  to 
Portland,  we  might  have 
carried  out  our  original  resolu- 
tion to  take  the  steamer  at 
that  pciint  direct  for  Al.iska, 
but  we  very  wisely  iua<k  a 
change  in  our  plans,  by  which 
we  proceeded  1)\-  rail  to  \'an- 
couver,  stopping  eu  route, 
however,  to  contiu\ie  our  work 
of  photogr.iphiug  mountains, 
valleys  and  glaciers. 

T.iconia  was  o\ir  first 
stop  after  le.iviug  Portland, 
and  a  very  beautiful  city  it  is, 
admirably  and  coniuiercially 
situated  at  the  head  of  naviga- 
tion in  Puget's  .Sound.  Mount 
Tacoma  ajipeavs  to  be  in  the 
very  fron'-yard  of  the  city,  so 
wonderfully  clear  is  the  air, 
though  in  fact  it  is  a  hundred 
miles  away  The  Sound  is 
a.stir  with  the  white  wings  of 

sailing  vessels,  and  streaked  with  the  black  trails  of  ocean-going  steamers,  while  the  blue  waters  are  begirt  with  the  dark  g^een  of  heavy 
forests,  making  a  jucture  of  almost  incomparable  beauty.  There  is  romance  in  the  very  air,  a  kind  of  dreamy  vision  of  the  long  ago,  when 
this  was  the  happy  Irud  of  the  Siwashes,  who  come  before  us  again  in  the  pretty  legends  which  linger  still  upon  the  lii)s  of  this  almost 
extinct  tribe.     They  tell  us  of  a  Saviour  who  once  came  to  them,  riding  in  a  copper  canoe,  out  of  the  bleak  desolation  of  tlic  icy  north,  and 


CATHEDRAl,   ROCK,  ON  COLU.MBIA  RIVER. 


lilt 


INDIAN  BURIAL  HOUSES  NKAR  THE  TOWN  OF  JUNEAU,  ALASKA. 


220 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


'I 

I 


who,  first  calliiij;  all  the  tribes  t»>;etlier,  ]ireaclie(l  to  them  the  jjospel  of  unselfish  service  and  rijjhteousncss.  He  tanj^lit  them  the  beatitudes, 
and  was  first  to  declare  that  man  was  possessed  of  an  nndyinj;  spirit,  which  lived  forever,  in  ])Ieasnre  or  pain,  aceordinji;  to  the  tneasnre  of 
his  descrvinj;.  The  Indians  listened  with  reverent  attention  \intil  this  Savionr  exhorted  thcni  to  live  in  brotherly  unity,  one  with  another, 
and  to  avoid  all  strife,  for  he  who  shed  liunian  blood  wonlil  feel  the  venjjeance  of  the  Cireat  Spirit.  This  teachinji;  .so  incensed  the  war-like 
tribes  that  they  seized  the  ,Sa\  ionr  and  nailed  his  body  to  a  tree,  where  it  remained  nine  days.  Then  behold,  there  came  a  jjrcat  storm  of 
hail,  accompanied  by  thunders 
that  rent  the  earth  and  leveled 
the  forests.  In  the  midst  of 
this  mif;hl\'  cataclysm  of  iMtiir.il 
forces  the  .Saviour  appe.ired 
ai;ain,  resurrected  unto  full  life, 
and  spcakin<j  to  the  winds  and 
the  thunders,  in  an  instant  the 
storm  was  hushed,  and  a  yreat 
peace  and  burst  of  sunshine 
bathed  the  earth.  After  this 
the  reincarnated  Saviour 
renewed  his  preaching  and  cou- 
timied  to  teach  immortality  for 
many  weeks,  until  at  last  he 
ascended  to  the  skies  in  a  cloud. 
These  s.ime  Indians  have 
also  a  tr.iditiou  of  the  deluije, 
which  bears  a  strikiu>j  simi- 
larity to  the  (leuetic  acco\inl. 
They  assert  that  many  tlmn- 
sands  of  years  aijo  a  H;reat  rain 
fell  upon  the  earth,  such  as  was 
never  before  or  since  known; 
that  such  torrents  of  water  were 
poured  out  of  the  sky  that  the 
world  became  .i  universal  sea, 
with  no  spot  of  dry  land  an\- 
wherc  vi>ible.  In  this  all-i)re- 
vailins  fl...d  everv  hmnan  bein«  f^l*'^'^  "f""  SNOQUAI.MIH  FALLS,  OREGON. 

perished  except  one  man  who  took  rcfuj;e  on  Mnunt  Tacoma.  As  the  water  ro.se,  he  was  driven  higher  and  hijjher,  until  at  last  he  reached 
the  summit;  but  still  the  .sea  advanced;  it  covered  the  loftiest  point  of  the  monntain,  then  ro.se  above  his  feet,  his  knees,  and  finally  reached 
to  his  waist,  when,  to  j)revent  him  from  beiu;;  swejit  away,  the  Great  .Spirit  turned  his  feet  to  stone,  and  he  thus  became  anchored  on  the 
peak.  Then  the  rain  ceased,  and  the  waters  were  gradually  assua>;e(i,  but  the  man  could  not  yet  move  from  his  position.  At  last  the  waters 
were  again  within  their  beds,  the  fields  bloomed,  the  forests  put  forth  with  new  life,  and  the  world  became  musical  with  song  of  bird  and 


■m 
nil 

iitj. 

iir 

'II  : 


THE  GREAT  GLACIER,  SIDE  VIEW.  SHOWING  GRINDING  OF  THE  MOUNTAIN  FACE. 


1   f 


222 

the  lullabies  of  flowing  streams,  f 
Then  a  pnifoiuul  sleep  fell  \ipon  the 
man,  and  while  he  slept  the  (Ireat 
Sjiirit  took  a  rib  from  his  side,  and 
from  il  made  a  beautiful  woman. 
When  he  woke  his  feet  were  no 
lon>;er  stone,  but  stronj;  with  vi<;or, 
and  at  onee  he  started  down  the 
mountain;  but  scareely  had  he  taken 
the  first  step  when  he  saw  before 
him  the  lovely  woman  who  was  j;iven 
to  him  for  wife.  The  (Ireat  Spirit 
now  direeled  the  couple  to  the  foot 
of  Taeoma,  where  he  had  planted  a 
garden,  and  in  this  paradise  he  com- 
manded them  to  abide  and  replenish 
the  world. 

It  is  probable  that  these  legends 
are  the  relies  of  the  teachings  of  mis- 
sion fathers  who  came  to  this  rcgi-  n 
more  than  two  hundred  years  ago. 

From Ticoma  we  went  to  Seattle, 
another  exijnisite  city  of  marvelous 
growth  and  immense  possibilities, 
which  occupies  a  strip  of  land  be- 
tween I'uget  Sound  and  Lake  Wash 
ington;  it  has  a  very  large  water 
front,  and  exhibits  a  harbor  as  active 
with  shipping  as  San  Francisco, 
b'roni  Seattle,  where  we  left  our 
])holograph  car,  we  went  to  Port 
Townsend,  and  thence  across  the 
Straits  of  Juan  de  Fuca  to  \"ictoria, 
on  Vancouver  Island,  where  we  first 
touched  the  soil  of  British  Columbia. 
This  city  is  also  a  very  beaiUiful  one, 
and  from  the  summit  of  Heacon  Hill 
a  nni'  iilcent  view  is  obtained,  corn- 
manning  a  very  great  expanse  of 
water,    Mount    Baker,  and  the 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


LATOURELLE  FALLS,  OR.;GON. 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


223 

Olympic  Ranj^e,  in  which  latter 
are  minierous  glaciers  large 
enough  to  swallow  up  the  Alps. 

On  the  2(1  of  May  we  took 
passage  at  \'ictoria,  on  the 
Pacific  Coast  Steamship  Com- 
pany's vessel  Qiii'cn,  and 
started  npon  a  delightful  voyage 
to  Alaska,  that  opalescent  gem 
in  the  frosted  coronet  of  the  far 
northwest.  The  trip  is  a  reve- 
lation, a  day-dream  of  inde- 
scribable transports,  a  luxury 
of  blissful  sur|)rises.  It  is  a 
strange  combination  of  ocean 
and  inland  water  travel,  and 
just  enough  of  each  to  provide 
all  the  pleasures  of  both,  with 
none  of  the  monotonies  or  dis- 
comforts of  either.  The  route 
is  almost  tntirciy  land-locked 
through  cli.iuneis  of  varying 
width,  among  islands  which 
appear  numberless,  and  as  green 
with  prolific  vegetation  as  the 
shores  of  Killaruey's  lakes. 

At  places  the  channel  nar- 
rows and  passes  through  walls 
of  very  great  height,  and  again 
widens  to  many  miles,  but  all 
the  while  there  are  emerald 
shores,  and  high-rising  banks 
over  which  tumble  many  beau- 
tiful waterfalls  ^Mui  still  above 
these,  in  the  hazy  backgrounds, 
are  snow-capped  mountains. 
Two  hundred  miles  north  of 
\'ictoria  is  Xanaimo,  the  last 
town  with  telegraphic  connec- 
tions,   and   si.K   hundred   miles 


.|M1' 

nil 


'<:.  «i 


c 


T 


324 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS 


I  II  > 


bcvonri  the  stiMiiier  toiiclics  at  I'ort  Wranjjcl,  wIrtc  tlic  first  contact  with  Alaska  Indians  is  made,  and  interest  at  once  centers  in  the  ctiriotts 
appearance  ami  habits  whicli  they  clis])la> .  Passinj;  thence  tlmnij^li  Wranj^el  Narrows  the  rejjion  of  ice  is  readied,  indicated  1)y  a  few 
straj;j;li"K  heri;s  that  have  become  detached  from  the  s,dacier  tliat  forms  in  a  fiord  called  Tlinnder  Hay,  near  the  month  of  Stikecu  River. 
Then  follows  a  view  of  the  Coast  Kan^je,  which  is  rent  with  icy  canons  that  jjlow  and  j^leani  with  refractions  of  clear  suiili);lit,  until  in 
places  they  sni^ijest  the  palace  of  Iris.  Thron^'h  this  nia/.e  of  niijjhty  wonders  the  steamer  plows  her  way  to  the  town  of  Jnnean,  famous 
not  so  mnch  for  it.  latitude  as  beiuv;  the  location  of  the  larijest  quartz-uiill  in  the  world.  Thence  we  proceeded  throujjh  a  labyrinth  of 
islands  into  Lynn  Canal,  which  is  considered  to  be  the  "mo.st  siddimely  beautiful  and  spacious  of  all  the  niountain-walled  channels  of 
the  Alaska  nuile."  The  .\uk 
and  Ivij^le  C.laciers  are  dis- 
played on  the  rij^ht  as  you  enter 
the  canal,  comiiij;  with  jjrand 
effect  from  their  far-reaching 
fountains  and  down  through 
the  forests.  Hut  it  is  on  the 
west  side  of  the  canal,  near  the 
head,  that  the  iimst  strikinj; 
feature  of  the  landscape  is  seen 
— the  Davidson  Cilacier.  It  first 
api)ears  as  an  iinuieiisc  ridj;e  of 
ice  thrust  forward  into  the 
chauuel,  but  when  you  ha\e 
i;aiiied  a  position  directly  in 
front,  it  is  shown  as  a  broad 
flood  issuiu.!j;  from  a  noble 
ijrauite  ,<;ate-wav,  and  spreadiiVij 
out  to  ri!.;ht  au<l  left  in  a  beau- 
tiful l.tii-shajied  mass,  three  or 
four  miles  in  width,  the  front 
of  which  is  separated  from  the 
water  b\  its  terminal  moraine. 
This  is  one  of  the  most  notable 
of  the  laixe  jjlaciers  that  are  in 
the    first    staj^'e   of    decadence, 

reachiny;  nearlv  to  tide-water,  but  failinjj  to  enter  it,  send  off  icebergs.  I)avids(m  (llacier  is  on  the  left  shore  of  Cliilcat  River,  and  very 
near  the  Indi.in  \illa|j;e  of  Chilcat,  the  northernmost  point  reached  by  the  rej,ular  line  of  steamers.  The  ])lace  is  of  very  little  interest  erccpt 
for  its  salmon  canneries  and  other  fisheries.  Cod,  herrinjj;  and  halibut  are  very  plentiful,  but  all  the  streams  thereabout  abound  with 
salmon.  Indeed,  duriny;  certain  seasons  they  arc  so  iiiimerous  as  to  fairly  choke  the  shallow  rivers,  and  in  places  they  may  be  scooped  up 
with  shovels.  I'rom  this  point  the  steamer  turns  south  to  Icy  .Strait,  then  proceeds  north  aKnin  by  that  channel  into  Cilacier  Hay,  whence 
beyond  to  Mount  St.  b'lias  is  the  real  ice-land  of  .Maska. 

Cilancing  for  a  inonient  at  the  results  of  a  >,'eiieral  exploration,  we  find  that  there  are  between  si.xty  and  seventy  small  residual  glaciers 


I'MATIl.l.A   INDIAN   CAMP.  ORHCON. 


I^^^^Hi^^Er^ 

-";;:?-T|||| 

mm^ji?^. 

•a 

P' 

'  '"^-^-^^^^^'^ 

p-' 

1 

H. 

'    ,— V    ^4'f'^^?''=•^"^•■ll^-r»J^ifc= 

~rr—  -^ 

•*-    ^        -•;-••    "^     Ji 

P 

f. 

1 

A^v./                ^~v                              ■■-1 

INDIAN   klVHR,   ALASKA. 


't'f 


1 1 


l.iC 

III) 

"I: 


THK   MOUNTAIN   NEAR   MUIR  (ll.UJl-l?. 


■;t' 


.-.-..-T 


Ml 

lii: 


226 

ill  the  California  Sierras.  Tliroiij;li  ()rcj;oii 
and  Wasliiiij^ldii,  j;laciiMs,  .sonic  01  tlieni  of 
considerable  size,  still  exist  on  the  liijilicsl 
Milcanic  cones  of  tlie  Cascade  Moniitains — tlie 
Three  Sisters,  Mounts  Jefferson,  Hood,  ,St. 
Helens,  Adams,  Taconia,  liakcr,  and  others, 
tho\ii;h  none  of  them  a]i|Mdacli  the  sea. 
Tliroiij;h  liritish  Columbia  and  .Sontheasteni 
Alaska  the  broad,  sustained  chain  of  inoiintains 
fxtendinj;  aloiijj  the  coast  is  jjenerally  jjlacier- 
bearinj^.  The  iqiper  branches  of  nearly  every 
<.-afion  are  occupied  by  "glaciers,  which  jjradn- 
ally  increase  in  size  to  the  northward  until  the 
lofty  rcjjion  between  dlacier  Hay  and  Mount 
St.  l%lias  is  reached. 

The  larijest  of  the  "glaciers  that  discharije 
into  (ilacier  Bay  is  the  Mnir,  and  beiny;  also 
the  most  accessible  is  the  one  to  which  ttmrists 
are  taken  and  allowed  to  j;o  ashore  and  clinih 
about  its  ice-cliffs  and  watch  the  Iiiiffe  blue 
berijs  as  with  tremendous  tlinnderini;  roar  and 
siir<,'e  they  emer.i,'e  and  iiliin^e  from  the  ma- 
jestic Vertical  ice-wall  in  which  the  <,dacier 
terminates. 

The  front  of  the  ijlacier  is  alioiit  three  miles 
wide,  but  the  central  ber^-prodnciujr  portion, 
that  stretches  across  from  side  to  side  of  the 
inlet,  like  a  lini^fc  ja.ijjjed  barrier,  is  only  about 
half  as  wide.  The  hei^dit  of  the  ice-wall  above 
the  water  is  from  I'.M)  to  ;!<i(l  feet,  but  s(>nndiiijj;s 
made  by  Captain  Carroll  show  that  about  T.'il 
feet  of  the  wall  is  below  the  surface,  while  still 
a  third  portion  is  buried  beneath  moraine  111a- 
tcrial.  Therefore,  were  the  water  and  rockv 
detritus  cleared  away,  a  sheer  wall  of  blue  ice 
w<iiild  be  i)resente(l  a  mile  and  a  half  wide  and 
more  than  a  thousand  feet  hi«;]i. 

The  number  of  berjjs  that  become  detached 
from  the  glacier  every  twelve  hours  varies  with 
tide  and  weather,  but  generally  a  new  one  is 


AMKRICWS  \VOXl)HRI,.\Nl)S. 


CAVE   IN  THB  GREAT  GLACIER,  BRITISH   AMERICA. 


AMlvRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


SCUZZIE  FALLS,  NEAR  NORTH  BEND,  BRITISH  AMERICA. 


337 

tlins  fasli  born  every  six  <ir  seven  niiniiles,  and 
so  massive  tliat  the  (liseliavjLje  may  l)c  heard 
like  thunder  or  eannonadinj;  two  or  more  miles 
away.  Wlien  one  of  the  fissnred  masses  falls 
there  is  first  a  heavy,  phui.yin)^  erash,  then  a 
deep,  deliberate,  lon^-drawn-oiit  tluinderiiijj 
roar,  followed  by  clashing,  j;ratinji;  sonnds  from 
the  a^jitated  bergs  set  in  motion  by  the  new 
arrival,  and  the  swash  of  waves  along  the 
beach.  All  the  very  large  bergs  rise  from  the 
bottom  with  a  still  grander  commotion,  rearing 
aloft  in  the  air  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  wall, 
with  tons  of  water  ])ouring  down  their  sides, 
heaving  and  ])lunging  again  and  ag.iin  ere  they 
settle  and  sail  away  as  bine  crystal  islands;, 
free  at  last  after  being  held  rigid  as  part  of 
the  slow-crawling  glacier  for  centnries.  And 
strange  it  seems  that  ice  formed  from  snow  on 
the  monntains  two  and  three  hundred  years 
ago,  shotdd  after  all  its  toil  and  travel  in 
grinding  down  and  fashioning  the  face  of  the 
landscape  still  remain  so  lovely  in  color  and 
so  piirc. 

The  rate  of  motion  '-f  the  glacier  as  has 
been  determined  by  Professor  keid  is,  near 
the  front,  abont  from  five  to  ten  feet  per  day. 
This  one  glacier  is  made  np  of  abont  2(H) 
tributary  glaciers,  which  drain  an  area  of  abont 
a  thousand  square  miles,  and  contains  more  ice 
than  all  the  eleven  hundred  glaciers  of  the 
Alps  combined.  The  distance  from  the  front 
back  to  the  head  of  the  farthest  tributary  is 
about  fifty  miles,  and  the  width  of  the  trunk 
below  the  confluence  of  the  main  tributaries  is 
twenty  miles  or  more. 

Next  to  the  Mnir,  the  largest  of  the  glaciers 
enters  the  bay  at  its  extreme  northwestern 
extension.  Its  broad,  majestic  current,  fed  by 
unnumbered  tributaries,  is  divided  at  the  front 
by  an  island,  and  from  its  long,  blue  wall  the 


I 'I 


^14' 


.it 


2JS 


AMI'iRlCA'S  WOXDICRI.AXDS. 


ii-iliiiys  ]>Iuiij;i'  .ind  lo.ir  in  diK'  i.tini,il  sionn,  Miiiiiiliii;;  mi  il.iv  ami  iiiylit,  wiiitir  miuI  .siiiimur,  ami  (loin  i-ciiUity  to  ci'iilury.  \-"\w  or  si\ 
ylaciiT^  111  llii-  lir>l  cla^-i  <li-.iliat,i4c  iiUi>  tin.  Iia\  ,  iIk'  inimliir  \ai\  iiijj  as  tlic  si'viral  oiilkts  of  tlif  iii-lklds  aro  ri')4;ar(li'(l  as  distinct  (glaciers, 
(If  iim-.  .\l">ut  .111  i.(|ii,il  iiiiuiIkv  of  llu'  .■•I'l-oiid  class  dcM\iid  witli  lnnad,  iiiiposinjr  ciiiri'iils  to  tin-  Icvi'l  of  the  hay  witlioiit  t'liti'riiijj  it  to 
dlM-liaryc  Inii;'-;  while  the  tiihiU.iriis  of  iIicni-  .iml  the  sin.illir  <;l,u'iiis  ari'  iniiiiiiur.ihk'. 

Ml.  John  Muir,  the  eNplorer  of  Mnir  ( 'd.ieier,  thus  deserilies  his  \  isit  to  that  womleifiil  ice-s\ve])l  region:  "The  elonds  cleared  away 
on  the  iiioniinj;  of  the  -Ttli,  ami  we  h.nl  i;loiioii>  \  iew.s  of  the  iee-ri\ei,s  pouring  down  fniiii  their  spacious  fountains  on  either  hand,  and  of 
the  j.;raiid  asseinl)lajie  of  nioiiiU- 
aiiis,  iniinaciilate  in  their  rolie> 
of  new  snow,  ,iml  b.ithed  and 
translij^ured  in  the  iiio>t  iinprcs- 
sively  Io\el\-  Muiii>e  lij^hl  1 
ever  helield.  Meiiior.dile,  loo, 
was  the  st,irr\'  splemlor  of  a 
ni,ullt  spent  on  the  e.i>l  ^idi-  of 
the  lia\',  in  fiont  of  two  l.ir].;e 
j;Kieiers  north  of  the  .Muir. 
\'elius  seemed  ll.ilf  ,is  Ml;  .i^  the 
Moon,  while  the  hertj-eovered 
ha> ,  <.;lowiiii;  and  sparUliu;; 
villi  re^pon-.i\e  lii.;lu,  >eeined 
am.  ''■  r  sk\'  of  equal  .i;lor> . 
.SloUly  alter  three  o'clock  in 
the  niornini;,  I  el  imbed  the 
di\idiiij{  rid,i,'e  between  the  two 
•^l.iciers,  J.oiio  ft-ii  ;ilii,\e  eani]>, 
for  the  sake  of  the  iiiylit  \  iew>; 
and  how  j.;reat  was  the  eiijoy- 
llleiit  in  the  .solemn  silence  bt - 
tween  those  two  radiant  skies 
no  words  iiia>  lell.  " 

The  destnictive  effects  of 
jjl.iciers  and  the  e.Ntent  of  their 
ravaj;cs  have  been  made  the  sub- 
ject of  inaiiy  iutereslin;.;  essa\  s 

by  distinjjjuished  scientists,  but  nowhere  has  it  been  so  interestin;j;ly  aii<l  understandiiij;Iv  treated  as  by  Dr.  Wrijjht  in  the  l-ldinburgh 
Rivii-a\  on  the  "Ice  .\);c  of  Xortli  .\nierica."     The  inonoj.;raph,  iniicli  abbreviated,  is  as  follows: 

"  It  is  not  more  than  Ui,iiih)  years  a^o  since  the  whole  of  Xorth  .\iiieric:i  and  Xorthern  l-airope  enicrfjed  from  beneath  a  dclnji;e  of  ice 
which  seems  to  have  destroyed  the  aborijjinal  inhabitants  as  rcniorselesslv  as  Xoah's  flood. 

"The  cliip|)ed  flint  iinplenient-tnakers  perisjied  with  their  contemporaries,  tlic  mammoth,  the  woolly  rhinoceros,  and  tlie  .sable- 
toothed  tijjcr,  and  left  the  Kk>''e  tu  I'e  repeopled  by  the  polished  stone-working  or  Xeolithic  projjenitors  of  its  actual  inhabitants.     The  gap 


F.\CK   OF   .«UIK   r,l  .ACIKK,    ALASKA. 


I 


M 
nil 


iM 


ir 


VILLAGE  OH   KASA-AN,  ALASKA. 


930 


AMERICA'S  WONDKRI.AXUS. 


ill 


lii'twctii  till-  two  nuH-s  is  coil.  ;mimu)iis,  and  lias  not   yit   Imii  ,iitli;iMil(pj.;ii'.ill\   liri(li;r(l.      A  catastro|ilH' is  iiidiiati'd;  and  a  catastroplic  l)y 
water.     Tiiis  is  the  coiicliisiim  of  si!  ''ui';  liow  siiiniilaily  it  liarinoni/is  with  the  hihliiai  naiiati\i'  is  almost  sni)iinnoiis  to  i>uiiit  out." 

Till- lUstnii-tioii  of  till' Aiitiilihu  i.ihs  who 
lived  before  the  lee  A>;e  set  in  was  aecomplished 
iniKli  further  back;  the  date  (i.iiiH)  11.  C.  repre- 
sents the  end  of  the  lee  A);e,  not  its  bii,'inniii).;. 
I  low  it  was  that  iee  siilitneri;ed  the  world  no  one 
.seems  to  be  e\aetl\  al>le  to  >a\  ,  but  .1  n''^''"  ''^■•'' 
of  valuable  information  h.is  been  obtained  b\ 
the  )j;eoloj;ie.d  research  of  the  presint  eentnry. 
Itefore  this  tlevastatinj,'  delu.t,'e  of  iee  set  in — 

"Trees  rei<j;ned  without  interruption,  in 
north  temperate  and  I'olar  ref^ioiis,  throu.yhont 
the  v.isl  e\|i.iiise  of  terti.iry  time.  I'.dins  and 
c\ea<ls  then  spr.iuj;  u|)  in  the  room  of  oaks  and 
beeches  in  l'!n),daud;  turtles  and  crocodiles 
haunted  I'ai.ylish  rivers  and  estuaries;  lions, 
elephants,  and  hyenas  ro.niled  at  larj,'e  o\er 
IuihHsIi  dry  land.  .\nthro])oi(l  apes  lived  in 
(lermauy  and  iMauce,  tiy;  and  ciiiuanion  trees 
flourished  in  DaiUzic;  in  Cireeiiland,  up  t'l 
.sexeiitv  dejjrees  of  latitude,  majjnolias  bloonieil, 
and  \ines  rii)ened  their  fruit;  while  in  .Spit/- 
berjicii,  and  even  in  C.rinnell  Land,  within  little 
more  than  ei>;ht  dei,'rees  of  the  pole,  swauip- 
cvpresscs  and  walnuts,  cedars,  limes,  planes  ,ind 
poplars  y;rew  Ireeh." 

p'or  some  reason  or  other  the  temperature 
jjradualh-  fell,  and  jjre.it  <,daciers  fonniuj;  in  the 
northern  re).;ion>,  the  hi;,;hlauds  of  C.inada  and 
the  .\rctic  Circles,  submer^'ed  N'ortherii  iMirope 
and  reduced  Canada  and  half  of  the  I'nited  Slates 
to  the  present  condition  of  (ireetilaiid.  Tho.se 
who  see  (glaciers  to-day  can  form  little  idea  of 
the  enormous  ixissibilities  of  semi-fluid  ice. 
Only  in  .\laska,  where  the  Muir  (llacier  empties 
itself  into  the  .Muir  iidet  at  the  rate  of  seveiitv 

feet  a  day,  can  we  fonn  any  idea  of  the  j,dacier  CHRISTINE  FALLS.  ALICE  BAY,  ALASKA. 

as  a  destructive  a<;ency.     This  j,dacier  empties  two  hundred  million  cubic  feet  of  ice  into  the  .sea  every  day;  that  is  to  say,  4."), (•()()  ton.s  of 
ice  fall  into  the  water  every  minute  in  avalanches  with  detonations  w  hich  .sound  like  the  booming  of  a  canuunudc.     The  very  earth  seems 


AMIvRICA'S  WOXDI'.RL.WDS. 


23r 


to  trcniMi',  anil  [Uv  sva  Ixiils  mid  f(i:itns  witli  tlu'  i'(iiitiiiii,il  disiliatm'  nf  fn^li  iiiluTys.  "  I'tcnii  (ilpsirvalimis  n|ii)ii  liviii),' v;hn.-ii-rs,"  says 
Mr.  Wright,  "anil  fnnii  tlii'  known  natnrc  of  hc,  wi'  \n.\\  Umiii  in  ncnj^ni/i'  tin.'  traik  of  a  ulacitr  as  naiiiU'  ami  UMMiislakalily  as  \vi'  would 
tlif  familiar  font-prints  of  an  animal."  It\  iliu  ilfi(.is  of  in-^jri'idin;;,  roi'ks  ari'  sniootliid  and  ))iilislii.d,  rnniidid  and  maminilalid.  Ttiiy 
ari',  niorro\ir,  striatid.  "'riitsi'  m  i\  In'  calkd  ;;laiial  liirrn^;l\  pliii's;  (glacial  deposits  arc  I'lpialK  disliiuli\c-.  'I'liry  arc  of  tlirvf  diffircnt 
kinds — uroniid  moraini',  ttiiiiiMal  nmraiiif,  and  I'lratic  l)iiwl(ii.rs.  'I'lic  lui^jlits  to  wliiili  tlie  iei-lloml  rust.'  are  frec|iu  iul>-  si.If-ri^;istered  on 
till'  mountains  wlliidi  otu-i-  liriastid  its  lldw.  'I'Ikn  scIac,  in  |)r.  W'rii^lit's  |diiase,  as  'ylaiioiniti  r>.'  Tiiiis  it  lias  lueii  liaincd  that  the  ice  was 
a  mile  thick  in  New  luiKlanil  and  a  eunple  of  thonsand  feet  ihiek  in  l'enns\  Kania.     The  date  ol  theeluse  of  tln' ( llaei.d  i'lpneh  in  the  I'nited 

States  eail  seareelv  ,  then,  he 
I  placed  earlier  than  II.'mm)  ji.  C. 
l'"or  it  was,  we  repeat,  the  wilh- 
draw.il  of  the  iee  that  set  tlu- 
elucinoMii  ur  of  the  I'alls  Koinj;. 
The  Ivdls  of  Niagara,  indeed, 
enn^litule  in  themselves,  in  |)r. 
Wtij^ht's  apt  phrase,  'a  nhieial 
ehroniinieter.'  " 

It  was  this  tremendous 
a^eney  of  j;laeial  action  that 
fja\e  lis  Northwest  America  as 
\ve  have  it  at  present.  "  The  ill- 
exhaustihle  fertilitv  of  the  I'ar 
West  is  an  eiidownieiit  from 
vaiii>lied  j;l.ii-iers." 

The  world  to-ila\  is  very 
different  from  what  it  was  in 
the  old  times.  The  nioiiiiiains 
stood  higher  and  the  ulaeieis 
forminj;  on  their  slope."* 
criiinpled  the  earth  in  beneath 
their  weij.;lit.  The  carlh-criisl 
was  not  .stroll),'  enon^jh  to  bear 
the  weight  of  its  iee-arinor. 
About  si.K  million  square  miles 
were  eo\ered  with  iee,  var\  in;;; 

in  thickness  of  half  a  mile  to  a  mile.  Taking;  it  only  at  half  a  mile  in  hcij;ht,  the  wcijjht  per  .square  mile  was  no  less  than  two  thousand 
million  of  tons.  ".\iul  the  whole  of  this  enormous  ma.ss  heinj;  extracted  from  the  ocean,  its  differential  effect  in  ])ro(lnciiijj  clian>;e  of  level 
was  doubled.  The  ice-cumbered  land  accordinjjly  went  down,  like  an  overladen  .ship,  until  it  was  awash  with  the  waves,  and  .sea-shells 
were  deposited  alon^  coast-frinijes  above  the  drift.  Then,  as  the  ice  melted,  recovery  ensued."  The  whole  article  is  full  of  interestinj; 
and  suf;ji;estive  reading;,  and  is  a--  '■\celleiit  example  of  a  ])opiilar  presentation  of  the  results  of  scieiititlc  research. 

The  return  trij)  was  made  down  Chatham  and   I'eril   Straits  to  Sitka,  the  capital  city  of  .Maska,  situated  on  the   Pacific  shore  of 


TAKU  (il.ACIER,   ALASKA. 


amp:rica's  wonderlands. 


R.iraiioft  Ishuul.  The  ])lacc  has  ijriiwii 
very  iiiucli  in  impinlance  in  the  past 
tew  years,  thcntjli  it  has  ni)t  increased 
onrrespi)n(lini;ly  in  si/e.  It  is  a  con- 
siderable liarlior  (or  whaling  and  seal- 
ing; vessels,  th.it  toneh  there  for 
supplies,  and  aeeordinj;ly  supports  a 
po])n!alion  that  is  larijely  American. 
The  natives,  however,  still  continne 
in  consider.d)le  ninnhers,  Init  ci.'itael 
with  I'!ni,'l  ish-speak  i  n  .i^;  jieople  is 
rapid-h-  ei  \i  1  i  zi  ns,'  them,  and  their 
old-time  characteristics  are  last  dis- 
appearinjj.  lint  in  I'lic  particniar  thev 
exhibit  small  chan;4e,  viz.:  reiij^ioii. 
l.oni^nnikrthe  domin.uion  of  Knssian 
in'hience  and  ni  i  >si(!nar' es  of  the 
(ireek  Chnreh,  it  is  not  sii'';risin.s;  that 
the  natives  should  conl'nnc  in  the 
faith  which  was  thus  first  '.'staldished 
amon,i;  tluin.  There  are  tli'-ee  (ireek 
i.'nirches  in  the  city,,dl  fairly  well  sup- 
ported, tli(.iij,di  the  commiinicants  are 
Content  to  worslii])  in  nither  hnnille 
edifices.  H\U  while  a<loptinji;  the 
('■reek  faith,  tlu'  nali\e  Indians  K*-'"" 
era'ly  retain  their  ancient  mortuary 
customs;  and  aniony;  tlie  interior 
tribes  parlicnlarU ,  witchcraft,  or 
.Shamanism,  and  exo'-cisin,  still  p.e- 
N.iils.  lUiri.il  of 
tir.icticed  anions 
as  jireservation 


lodies  is  wrv  seldom 


>f  the   Ii 
r  deail  is 


\ers.il    ( 


lesiri 


.f  tl 

It   is  ,  t  he  re  fore 
thi 


a 


common  tluii''  to  see  their  cemeteries 


instead    of   earth-inounds 


and 


tomb- 


s  t  o  11  e  s  . 

1 


ection  ot    mortiarv 


louses,   in    which   the   dead   are   1 


lid 


with  iiw-.n  care.  coMceak( 


ilv  bv  the 


<ins  or  blankets  in  which  tlie\    are 


v\ 


■  m 

nil 


III). 

iir 


SIIK A  HAY.  Al  ASKA. 


1 

' 

d^QdV^^^  abI^H 

^^^/^^K^^n/uH!^  1^I& 

■ 

^ 

^^^_^_^^J 

'  .•:#. 

;-'^' 

JTI 

I.-.'    ,v  ^«         '    "a^-''  ■-    ' 

.  J:m^''mi''r-    ■',.  ■■ 

^<^ 

.■,,.5 

'  ' 

"...         1 

It 

El' 

^^Sl^^l 

V 

r 

> 

V 

1 

i^ 

THE   POOL   AT  BANHI"   HOT  SPRIN(iS.   BRITISH   AMERICA. 


^ 


!•«• 


Ii 


234 

wrapped,  soiuetliiiiR  after  the  manner  of  tlie 
Sioux  Indians.  Thus  disposed  of,  the  dead 
are  loujj  preserved  in  that  cold  cHuiate,  the 
houses  themselves  often  decayinjj  before  dis- 
sohitiou  of  the  l)odies  is  far  advanced.  This, 
however,  applies  to  what  may  be  called  t!ie 
better  class  of  natives.  Amonjj  the  interior 
and  poor  people,  it  is  the  custom  to  remove 
the  body  to  some  .secluded  spot,  usually  on  a 
bluff  overlooking;  a  river,  and  lay  it  upon  the 
ground.  A  shelter  is  made  by  bnildin.y;  over 
it  a  .small  conical-shaped  structure  of  spruce 
lojjs,  and  a  tree  near-by  is  stripped  of  its 
branches  and  small  pieces  of  cloth  are  tied  to 
it  to  mark  the  spot.  The  household  utensils, 
sled,  and  some  of  the  weapons  of  the  deceased 
are  left  with  him,  should  he  be  the  head  of 
a  family,  and  the  place  is  tabooed  theucefortb. 
Our  return  journey  was  devoid  of  the  sur- 
prises which  made  the  northward  trip  so 
delightful,  yet  the  charm  which  possessed  us 
after  leaving;  \"ictoria  continued  throu>;Iiout, 
for  the  ma,i;nitlcent  scenery  alonjj  the  route 
cannot  be  exhausted  by  a  simple  .t;lance,  but 
rather  };rows  in  beauty  when  liu^erins^dv 
watched.  It  was  impossible  to  feel  that  the 
voyajje  was  beiuij  made  on  any  part  of  the 
ocean,  .so  still  was  the  water,  so  jjreeu  the 
near-by  shores,  so  clear  the  sky,  droppiuy; 
down  all  around  upon  frosted  jieaks  and 
island  forests.  .\ud  the  ni>,'hts  were  so  j,dori- 
ously  Kr'iU'li  sprinkled  with  jewels  cf  liirht 
from  moon  and  stars  that  made  the  world  as 
beautiful  as  the  lawn  in  front  of  paradise, 
and  broujjht  to  mind  the  poet's  tribute  to 
nature's  solitude: 

"  The  waves  were  dead; 
The  tides  were  in  llieir  jjraves; 
The  llloDll,  Uleir  llli^Ui-ss,  hail  expired  liefore; 
The  winds  were  withered  in  the  stajjiianl  air." 


.•\MKRIC.\'S  \VO\DERL.\XDS. 


DEVIL'S  (iATB,  KbAVEK  CANON,  BRITISH   AMERICA. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

ACROSS  THE  MOUNTAINS  TO  YELLOWSTONE  PARK. 


'!'» 


was  tlic  l"itli 
prf]>aratioii  to 
by  a  brief  (li\e 
River,  on  the 
confined  witlii 


of  May  when  we  returned  to  \'ietoria,  and  without  any  waste  of  time  we  jiroeeeded  to  Seattle,  and  there  made  hasty 
continue  onr  work  alonj;  the  northern  lines  of  road  towards  the  east,  A  little  chauijc  was  made  in  our  oriffinal  plans, 
rsion  from  the  routes  we  had  marked  out,  in  order  to  view  and  take  some  pictures  of  the  marvelous  scenery  along  Fraser 
Hue  of  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad.  This  stream  is  as  wide  as  the  Ohio,  but  j;;euerally  of  j,neat  depth,  and  being 
n  perpendicular  walls,  often  risiui,'  to  a  Iu-i<;ht  of  .'idU  feet,  it  is  a  rushing  flood,  too  swift  in  places  for  the  most  powerful 

steamer  to  make  head  against. 
The  road  follows  the  bed  of  this 
torrential  stream  for  a  distance 
of  I.")0  miles,  through  the  Cas- 
cade Mountains,  anu  iti  sight 
at  times  of  the  Okinagan  Range. 
Reyond  these  eastward  are  the 
('■old,  Selkirk  and  Rocky 
Mountains,  and  in  between  ahd 
about  these  are  glaciers  of  ex- 
traordinary proportions,  which 
in  summer  feed  tearing  cata- 
racts and  plunging  waterfalls, 
iiud  furnish  nature  jiictures  that 
thrill  t'  e  heart  with  wonder. 
Beyond  the  valley  of  Thompson 
River,  where  the  (lolden  Range 
ue>^i•.•.^■,  the  scenery  is  quite  as 
grand,  though  scarcely  so  sub- 
lime as  that  in  the  canon  of  the 
I'raser;  but  the  mountains  are 
surprisingly  beautiful,  and 
variegated  with  patches  of 
snow,  clnnij)s  of  evergreen,  and 
sheets  of  soft  blue  water  that 
invite  the  angler.  Louise, 
Agues  and  Mirror  lakes  lie  one 
above  the  other,  high  up  upon 
the  mountain  sides,  where  they 
SPOKANE  FALLS,  WASHINGTON.  are  often  hidden  by  clouds,  and 


HUl' 


l-:l' 


23,S 


i 


ll 


!'•;; 


.'1       I 


NAi;Vh  lilRI.S  Ol-  HAWAII,  SANDWICH  ISLANDS. 


!    1 


in 
nil 


»*: 


lii! 


1  ■ '' 


KANKOHE   PARK,   HAWAII. 


I" 

I'" 


938 

are  accordiiijjiy  called  the  "Three  Sisters  of 
the  Sky."  Castle  MoiiiUaiii  may  be  seen 
fniin  this  point,  which  is  only  a  few  miles 
from  Banff,  fanions  fcjr  its  hot  springs,  and 
for  heinj;  ihe  chief  resort  in  the  Canadian 
National  Park,  with  a  hotel  capable  of  accom- 
inodatinjj  MtM)  jruests. 

The  side-trip  which  we  took  on  the  Cana- 
dian Pacific  occupied  tmly  one  v  .'ck,  and 
thouj^fh  not  orijjinally  contemplated  in  onr 
plan  of  pliotoj;rai)hinjj  American  scenery, 
more  than  comi)ensated  for  the  chanj,'e,  for 
we  are  thus  enabled  to  present  some  Hritish 
American  scenery  e(inal  to  the  most  magnifi- 
cent, imposins;  and  attractive  that  our  own 
country  possesses. 

Had  the  time  been  at  onr  disposal,  we 
would  have  made  onr  scenic  journey  extend 
to  the  Sandwich  Islands,  after  our  return  to 
Victoria,  particularly  as  there  was  some  polit- 
ical aj,Mtation  in  the  jjoverument  at  Hawaii  at 
.  the  time.  Indeed,  while  in  San  Francisco, 
we  were  earnestly  urjjed  t(<  visit  the  islands 
with  onr  cameras,  so  as  to  include  them  in 
onr  Wonderland  book;  and  10  the  other  in- 
ducements offered,  we  were  ])resented  with 
.some  views  of  the  Hawaiian  palace,  the  jial- 
inetto  embowered  walks,  cocoanut  jjroves,  and 
pictures  of  the  channinji;  native  girls,  which 
latter  was  a  particularly  powerful  persuasive. 
But  the  islands,  charminjj;  thouj;h  they  are, 
do  not  belouff  as  yet  to  the  .\merican  domain, 
and  cannot  therefore  be  properly  included, 
thouf^h  on  account  of  the  annexation  senti- 
ment, and  President  Harrison's  niessa<;c 
nrgiug  their  acquisition,  the  views  <,'iven  to 
us  are  here  reproduced. 

Returninjj  to  vScattlc,  we  proceeded  di- 
rectly eastward  attain,  by  tlie  Xorthern  Pacific 
Railroad,  crossing  for  a  third  time  the  Cascade 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


KAKABtKA  I  ALLS,   NEAR  FORT  WILLIAMS,  THUNDHR   BAY,  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


M ' 


THE   ROYAL   PALACE,   HAWAM. 


■  lu.' 
III. 

I  If,, 

iiir 
'II  i 


i:ri 


i^ 


1 

If. I 

I  III  < 


240 

RaiiKC  iiiid  vii-wini;  aj;aiu  llie  wliiti'  and  smi- 
liKlitid  cii'sls  (it  Mounts  Ilnixl,  St.  llilcns, 
Adams  and  Kaniir.  Tlic  mwiv  is  aUmi,'  tlio 
Yakinicr  Ui\ir,  tlitdnKli  iliarniinj^  sciikia- 
all  tlie  way  to  SiH.kano  I-'alls,  wluTc  the 
bcanli,-  (it  tlie  landscape-,  as  \\\\\  as  tla-  uiiylit 
and  awfnlniss  nf  llic  tails,  arn-sti'd  lis  for  a 
tinif.  I'alonsf  I",dls  is  within  nine  inik's  df 
tlie  jnnctiiin  df  llu-  Snake  with  Cdhunliia 
River,  and  aiv  a  part  of  I'alnuse  I<i\cr,  which, 
after  fidwin;;  thrdiiijh  a  deep  cafion  thirty 
feet  wide,  punrs  d\er  a  precipice  that  is  a 
sheer  heij^ht  of  l-'"i  feel.  The  surrdunilini; 
rucks  exhibit  nian\-  itni(|ne  fdnns,  rani^inj;  in 
terr.iccs  to  a  liei;..;ht  of  -.'.lidd  feet,  and  then 
assuming  the  sha])e  df  jiinnaeles,  chinmevs, 
ciilnnin.s  and  needles,  as  if  the  rej,Mdii  had  one 
time  been  the  work-jjroiinds  of  ^iant  sculptors. 

.Snake  River  is  interrupted  by  enornions 
falls,  the  most  inipdrtant  of  whicii  are.Xmeri- 
c  m  and  Island  l'"alls,  the  former  ha\ini,'a(lrdp 
of  thirty  feet;  bein^  very  wide  before  taking 
the  final  leap,  the  river  flows  over  ;i  series 
of  ledges  that  break  the  water  into  cataracts. 
iMirlher  up  the  stream,  aliont  fifty  miles  from 
Shoshone  Palls,  are  I.ost  Falls,  which  leap 
down  from  a  height  of  two  hundred  feet,  and 
then  the  river,  of  which  they  are  a  part,  (Ii>- 
app^ars  under  the  lava-covered  earth,  but 
rcapjiears  again  several  miles  beyond  and 
resumes  its  impetuous  and  erratic  course. 

S  'Uie  fifty  miles  east  of  .Spcikane,  nn  the 
line  (if  the  Xorthern  I'aeillc,  is  Ilauser  Junc- 
tion, where  the  road  branches  southward, 
through  the  C(eur  d"  .Mene  Indian  Reserva- 
tion and  a  great  mining  region,  \viiile  the 
main  line  runs  around  the  north  shore  of  Lake 
I'eud  d'  Oreille,  the  most  beautiful  sheet  of 
water  in  the  northwest,  and  de.^tintd  some- 
time to  become  a  popular  resort.    Beyond  the 


AMKRICW'S  WONDERLANDS. 


SNOWSHI.IjS   GN   TH1-;   CANADIAN   l'A(.ll  K. 


III 


MISSOURI    RIVKR,   ALONG   THB  GKEfAr   NORTHERN    RAILROAD. 


II 


Ill' 


343 

l.iki'  is  till'  I''l,itlu'.iil  Iiiili.m  I<i>ir\ati<>ii,  ;iiicl 
at  Mi>s<i;ila  the  two  lims  ol  ro.id  tiiiilt-  a^'aiii. 
This  c'itv  is  a  |)laie  of  iiiikIi  iiiipi'it.uui.',  and 
ailmiraUly  situated  iii-ar  tlic  Jmuticm  ul  IIill 
Ciatf  and  ItiUiT  Knot  Kivir,  a  district  of  i^w-M 
SCI' nil-  litantv.  l''IallK'ad  l.akc  lii's  sistv' 
mill's  to  till'  nnrtli,  an  I'nii'rald  sliti'l  of  crystal 
water  rcposinj;  wilhiii  a  bed  of  lofty  cliffs,  and 
belted  in  the  center  1)\  a  i  liain  of  woudecl 
islands,  while  its  w.iters  are  discharj^ed  into 
the  Tend  d'  Oreille  River,  th.it  daslus  aw.iy 
lliro\ij,'h  deel)  uor^'cs  in  tuiiiiiltuoiis  flow.  l'"ovt\' 
niilis  from  this  iiictiires(iue  lake  are  the  Two 
.Si>ters'  C.iscailes,  which  jioiir  oxer  the  oi)|H)s:le 
walls  of  a  colossal  aniiihitliealer  :i,iHi((  feet 
hi<;h,  and  then  unite  to  ioiirney  tlirotiijh  K'""!;*^) 
over  waterfall  and  across  lovely  meadows, 
catcliinjj  perfume  and  inspiration  mi  their  way 
to  the  Pacific. 

The  way  thence  from  Missoula  is  o\er  a 
comparatively  level  stretch  of  conntrv-,  until 
just  west  of  Helena  the  road  strikes  the  Main 
Divide  of  the  Rocky  Monnlains,  and  to  cross 
this  broken  rej^don  it  is  coinpelled  to  pnrsn. 
.1  windiiv^  way. 

ilileua  is  reputed  to  be  the  richest  city  of 
its  si/e  in  all  the  worlil,  a  claim  well  supjiortcd 
b\  appearances,  for  while  havinjj;  probably 
1. '1,111  in  inhabitants,  it  has  all  the  conveniences 
of  our  largest  cities,  and  in  no  other  place  of 
eipial  population  are  the  ])nblic  building's  and 
residences  so  maj^uitlcent  and  palatial.  Hut 
aside  from  its  wealth  and  be.intv ,  the  jilace  is 
the  center  of  a  rei,doii  as  remarkable  for  its 
scenic  attractions  as  for  its  siher  mines. 
Ivijihteen  miles  north  of  Helena  is  the  cafion 
of  Little  Prickly  I'ear,  where  preci|)itous  walls 
rise  to  a  varying  height  of  .'iiiH  to  1,<"H)  feet, 
and  are  j;or)j;eonsly  colored  by  str.ita>  of  differ- 
ent  formations,  blending  with   hues  of  trees. 


.\MKR1C.\'S  WUNDKRLANDS. 


KANANASKE'S  fAI.I.S.  BRITISH  AMERICA. 


'i 


FRONT  VIEW  OF   MAMMOTH   HOT  SPRINCJS-CLEOPATRA  ANlJ  JUPITER  TERRACES. 


'f  Tr 


l|:t 
ll'l 

ill' 


244  AMKRICA'S  \V(A"1M-:RLA\DS. 

shrubs,  and  xiuis  lluit  tciulerly  cliiii;  to  tlii'ir  1;kts.  Near-by  is  tbc  |H)r'al  llironj;li  which  the  headwaters  of  the  Missouri  p;o  madly 
eareeiiiny,  iiiakiiiy;  a  deep  n.ariiii;  sound  as  they  (hish  lietweell  walls  IJMIO  feet  hi.i;h.  Atlantic  Canon  is  only  three  miles  further  down  tlie 
river,  and  next  in  (juick  sneeessioii  ajijiei's  the  Dear's  Tooth,  two  monoliths  that  m.iy  be  distinctly  seen  from  Helena,  twenty  miles  away. 
The  Monta..a  Central  and  (ireat  Northern  Railroad  convey  travelers  over  a  j;n<id  road  ei^dity  miles  further,  to  the  I"'alls  of  the 
Missouri,  three  in  nuudier,  which  are  scatteied  over  a  distance  of  twehe  miles,  where  the  ri\er  Hows  through  a  canon  with  \e'tical  walls 
•JiMi  to  .'idd  feet  hi,i,'h.  We  first  meet  a  ca.scade  called  lilack  ICagle  l'"alls,  where  the  entire  river  drops  o\er  a  ledne  twenty-six  feet  lui^h,  a 
]irecursor  of  the  more  ter- 
rible w.Uerfills  that  are 
10  come.  The  next  one 
to  .1  ppcar  i  u  v-  w  is 
Rainbow  l"alls,  where  the 
river,  l,:.'(iil  feet  wide, 
hurls  itself  down  a  per- 
]X'ndicul.ir  descent  of  lifty 
feet.  ."six  miles  further 
down  are  the  ''real  b'.ills, 
that  have  a  leap  of  ninety 
feet,  .lud  whose  terrilile 
roariui;  eau  be  he.ird  a 
dozen  miles  aw.iy.  At 
this  point  the  ri\er  has  a 


reater  th.m  the 


M 


ississippi. 


but    IS    u.n 


rowed  to  ^l'"'  feet  bv  w.lUs 
•-'"0  leethi.!.;h.      .\u  i-liud 


\iiles    the     n 
Iters,   the    half 


ish 


.xl    t( 


the    y\'U 


t    b.uik    (l,i-li 


<lowu  with   such   tremen- 
dous effect  that  cloui 
spray   are    .sent    2Ihi    fi ,.  t 


il 


hi-h 


stnic 


k    b 


bright  s\inbe.ims,  are  con- 
verted into  rainliows,  or 
at  times  ^Unv  with  luismatic  In 


(WON  or  Mbsoi  1^1  i'ivi;i'.  nkak  (;i*K.\r  1  alls. 

like  ^iant  so.ip-oubbles.  That  p.irt  nf  the  stream  llowiuj.;  to  the  left  passes  over  a  succession  of  ledj^es, 
lormins,'  a  ma.t;iiilKeu'.  cataract  of  lleecy  foam,  :.''•()  feet  in  width  and  !•<•  feet  in  iierpendicular  elevation.  Ihit  though  these  are  the 
principrd  falls,  there  aic  tweb, e  others  within  a  dislauce  of  ten  utiles,  having  a  total  descent  of   I'lO  feet,  and  these  interruptions  in  the 


L'haunei  eoutinue,  thou<;!i  in  ,i  les>er  dc'ree,  as  far  di 


I'ort  lieutou,  which  is  the  head  of  na\is/ation. 


The  countr\-  east  of  Helena 


the  line  of  the  Northern   I'aeifie,  presinls  no  variation  of  apjiareiUlv  boundless  prairie  land,  until 


the  liad  I„iuds  of  Northern  Dakota  are  reached,  which  will  be  h 


ereafl^r  describee 


One  huu<lred  and  tiltv  miles  east  of  the  citv,  however, 


II 


H 

1    i: 


lilt 


ir 


PULIMI    TKKKM'.H.   MAMMOTH   HOT  SPRINC.S. 


?^ 


ll.l 


I  III 


246 


AMI'RICA'S  WOXDKRLAXUS. 


is  the  town  of  I.ivinj^stnn,  ;U  which  point  Vcllowstom-  I'aik  \isil(ii>  ilianm-  oars  to  a  brancli  liiu'  that  inns  fifty  iiiik's  ihie  south  to  Cinnabar, 
which  is  within  a  niiJL'  of  tlie  Wvnniin.n  State  line,  and  three  miles  from  the  northern  hoiniiiary  of  the  National  I'ark.  We  are  now  npon 
the  lionlers  of  the  most  womlrous  re.i;ion  of  the  earth,  the  euriosities  of  which  we  will  now  attempt  to  briefly  describe,  thon<;h  words  seem 
to  lose  their  sijjnificance  when  they  are  \ised  to  portray  the  marvels  that  exist  in  this  real  wonderland. 

At  Cinnabar,  tourists  take  the  statje  for  a  seven  miles'  ride  to  Mammoth  Hot  Sjirinj^s  Hotel,  which  i-,  the  first  aiul  princi])al  hostelry 
within  the  park.  This  ride  prepares  the  visitor  for  remarkable  surprises,  for  it  is  throUi;h  an  erratic  district  of  soarinj;  pinnacles,  di/zv 
walls  and  chaotic  formations, 
stranjjer  and  more  weird  than 
the  gate-way  that  Cerberus 
guarded.  .\way  uiion  theapcv 
o{  the  first  tall  spire  oi  stone 
that  has  broken  away  from  the 
canon  walls  of  Ciardiuer  River, 
is  seen  an  eagle's  nest,  an  aerie 
so    loftv    that    the   clouds   pla\ 


about    it; 


ir-reacMiiiir 


skv- 


ward  that  it  is  tipped  with  the 
waking  beams  of  sunlight  before 
(lav,  and  is  bright  with   linger- 


ing rays 


when  evening  shades 


have  descended.  Hy  aid  oi 
gla.ss  the  eagle  may  be  ^t■t•n 
demurelv  surve\iiig  the   worid. 


or  111 


her  absence 


tli> 


slniiiuii': 


necks  of  her  ambiinnis  brood, 
watching  the  neiglibori'g  cr.igs 
for  their  roxal  parent's  return. 
Nothing  that  I  saw  in  Yellnw- 
stone  I'ark  impressed  me  mure 
thi 


in  this  nest  of  eagles  111  the 


ire  dejnhs    of    that    perilous 


peak. 


This   great    Nati"ual 


Park  is  a  vo 


Icanic 


late.ui  some 


RAINBOW   r\MS,   (iKWIi   1  Al  i  S.    MOM  AN  \. 


1(1,1100  feet  above  sea  level,  and  embraces  a  territory  fift\  -fi\e  by  .si\ly-fi\c  miles,  or  '.i.'u^t  S(|uare  miles.  It  w.is  first  visiU'cl  b\  [  hn  Colter, 
an  attache  of  the  Lewis  an<l  Clarke  t-xploring  evpedilinn  i  1  I.hik;,  but  it  was  not  until  nearly  fifty  years  later  that  stones  told  of  the  region 
bv  old  trappers  and  iiuiUei--  were  v  rifKil  b\  a  \i>it  of  member-  ui  the  Cicolnj-ic  .Sur\f\  .      In  Is.Sd  it  was  made  a  Natiinial  Park,  sin 


time  it  li.is  been  under  tl 


ilediate  cmUrol   of  the   Secreta 


.f  tl 


MamuKith  Hot  ,S]iriugs,  and  ])(iliees  the  p.irk  with  ,1  ccmipany  of  c.ivalr; 


e  which 
L'rinteiii,leiit  with   hcad<|ii.irters  at  the 
principal  care  is  the  ])roteetion  of  game.     ,So  failhfnlK   has 


iterior,  who  ajipoints 


th 


'itv  been  executed  th.it  the  park  imw  abounds   willi  deer,  bull. do,  elk    bear,  and   a   fi'W  mouiitaiii   limi 


sides  a  gre  \t   almiK 


■  \uc 


I  If 


Ill 


24S 


.\MI".RIC.\"S  WOXDIvR LANDS. 


siiKill  j;;i!ne  ;iiul  \v;itcr-fo\vl.     rjnin  ali.uluin),'  Irniii  tin.'  >l:ii;i'  al   .M.iiiiin<uli  Hot  Spiiims  IIcili'l,  tin-  first  nbji'i-ls  tliat  attract  the  iiitiTcst  of 
visitors  aro  the  pink  terratxil  spiiir^s  auii  Cap  ol"  I,ilii.r;\  ,  which  are  in  tile  fniiil-yard,  so  to  spe.ik.      Tile  spriii.i;s,  filly  in  iimiilier,  cover  an 
area  nf  1  Til  aeies  and  liy  a  enn-.iaiit  >lepo>itinii  ol'  eaiiionale  of  lime  lia\e  Imilt 
np,  ter:aee  njioii  terraee,  a  liKiniul  I'nlle  -HO  leet  hi^;!!. 

The  sprinj^s  have  their  source  soiiiew  Ik  re   uilhin   an  ac'ive  xolcanic 
lieU,  anil  thus  Ikitiil   li\-  iiUtrnal  fnes  the)    ponr  out   llv,  ir  uali  is   it  a  Uni- 

le  soil  linioloiu  , 
1:1  iliii,  ,    a    sciiii- 


peialiiie  I'l    II-    to    |i'.:l     I'ahriiilu  :l,  w  liicli,  actin,;  upon  ll 


(llsScilMS     a 


ml    con\cns    it    into    ulial    '•eolovisls    call    /r 


crvslalline  tleposit  tiiat  (piickly  hanleiis  upon  coiiiini;  in  contact  with  the 
air.  When  first  oliserved,  the  terr.icis  re-ianhle  a  snou-hank,  lint  hy  other 
writers  they  h,i\e  hnn  compared  to  the  terminal  limit  of  a  i^lacier.  .ind  .lij.iin 
like  a  fn.nnin:^  c.i-c,id,i' >\'.ddeii!y  tniiu  d  into  ^imu.  Slre.iks  and  patches  nf 
red.  yellow  and  i^rrcii  seen  npnii  the  while  sh>|ics  111.11  k  the  coiii-e  of  o\ir- 
tlowinx'  w.iter,  whiii.-  chmils  of  ste.ini  llo.it  Iii.;litl\  npw.ird  fmni  tin-  main 
springs,  Init  only  lo  (piickly  disappe.ir. 

There  arc  in  .ill  ei;.  'U  well-defined  heiiche^.  e.uh  with  a  more  m'  less 
le\el  snrf.ice,  and  U  rniin.iliiii;  with  \ciiic.d  fruiil,-  to  the  iicM  u  i  r.ice  helow. 
Xear  the  terr.ices.  thun.uh  I'li  a  luiu  h  ol  ground  1a  ilself,  is  I,il)crl\'  Cap, 
;l  pillar  fort\-lliree  feit  hi,t;h  and  twenty  feit  in  di.inietir,  with  sphinxdike 
profile,  the  cone  of  ,1  hot  splini;  'oiiy;  since  cMinct.  Close-In  is  a  siniil.ir 
iiKinolilh,  net  so  !.;'l.  c.illed  the  Hcvil's  Thumh.  ,1  11, line  ivailiK  sin^i^isted 
li\'  the  pro\iniit\-  of  the  s]iriii;:s  to  Pinto's  dominion,  as  some  will  h.i\e  it, 
and  the  .gossip  ih.il  ,S, it. ill's  li.nid  is  in  .ill  the  region  thereabout. 

In  wauderim;^  around  the  terr.iees  the  \isitor  is  sure  lo  have  his  sur- 
ise  cpiickeiied  li\  the  hrii^hth -tinted  basins,  and  the  red  and  oraiii^e  slopi-- 


.\erllow\d    b\    the    Iml 


minute  ah. 


TIk 


ilors   .ire   due   to   th 


e    iiriseiice    o 


:e,  or  w.iler-plauls,  whose  life  is  stiaiij.;ely  enon.i;li  supported  b\ 


the  liot  w, Iter  and  the  lime  held   in   sipliition;   for  iiuesliij.ilion   Ii.is  dis 


the  a>tonishin<'  f.ict  ih.il  the  chief  work  of  t 


hoe  microscopic   pi. mis  is  the 


separ.itioii   from  the  w.iter  of  the  carbonate  of  lime,   which  t 
abstractiiii(  the  c.iibonic  .icid. 


K\'   c.iiise  li\ 


The  view  from  ilu-se  mamuiolh   terr. 


•es  IS  pictiires(ine  hex  on 


parison:  The  d.irk  ,in<I  lofty  summit  of  ,Si.|.iilchre  Mount. tin  shows  its 
head  near-by  oil  the  north;  while  the  upper  valley  of  the  Yellowstone,  and 
the  ja;^.lfed  Jieaks  of  .Snovve  Raili^e,  are  seen  lo  the  iiorthe.ist,  l)etweell  vSepitl- 
clire  and  the  Ioii.l;  face  of  Mmint  I-Aarts.  In  the  southeast  the  e\e  dwells 
])leasaiitly  upon  the  distant  view  of  l.ava  Creek  and  riidiue  I'alls,  with 
many  snow-white  jieaks,  standin.;;  like  sentinels  around  this  wizard  realm: 
while  liiinseii  I'eak  keejis  w.itcli  towards  the  south,  its  dark  sloiies  makiu),' 
ail  effective  baekijronn  1  to  ihe  white  hills  of  hoi  spriui;  deposit. 


si.ui<;i-:no.x  canon,  ni-:\r  r.w.xx  tails,  .Montana. 


tof 
r  Mil 

I 


r.OATINU  SPRING   TERRACE. 


25° 


AMI-RICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


-" ;.  *^ 


i^i$k: 


Wliin  \vc  turn  from  vicwiiiy;  tlie  stirrouiulin.tj  sttiKry  ami  l)ij;iii  to  cxaniiiif  particularly  each  separate  fonnatinii,  we  find  near  the 
center  of  this  siil>liniat<.(l  fielil  a  lilue  spriiiy,  hrilli.iiit  as  a  sapiihire,  and  clear  as  a  diamond,  with  a  deep  and  irrej^nlar  rim  all  aronnd  it,  as 
if  natnrc  had  made  an  effort  to  retain  its  heantifnl  waters.  'I'his  sprini;  is  fifteen  by  twenty  feel  in  area,  and  is  in  a  state  of  constant 
ajjitation.  The  sides  and  ln)ltom  of  the  liasin  are  formed  of  ]nire  white  ttavertine,  while  the  var\  inj;  depths  canse  the  water  to  appear  all 
shades  between  a  dee])  peaeock-lilne  and  a  lii;ht  nili'-i;reen.  Issninj;  at  a  temperature  of  1(>.'>\  the  water  contains  a  considerable  aniotmt  of 
gas,  which  escapes  at  the  snrface  of  the  pool,  thns  eausinj;  tlie  fiow  to  rise  in  the  form  of  a  little  dome,  while  a  pnlsatinj;  mo\ement  is 
imparted  which  sends  out  waves  that  ripple  across 
the  water  and  curl  over  the  shallow  rim  of  the 
bowl,  fiUint;  other  basins  alony  its  conrse.  These 
terraced  overflow  basins,  thns  formed,  are  a  most 
strikinij  featnre  of  the  sprin.<,'s.  Xo  descriiHion  can 
do  justice  to  their  beauty,  for  neither  the  delicate 
fretwork  of  their  walls,  the  frosted  surface  of  the 
jjlisteuini;  deposit,  nor  the  brilliant  colors  of  the 
pools  and  rivers  can  be  adeipiately  described. 

In  many  places  the  overflow  is  in  thin 
sheets  and  little  cascades,  wdiile  yellow,  sulphur- 
coated  threads  of  al.>;:u  are  abundant,  though  thev 
do  not  imjiart  their  color  to  the  water,  for  the 
exquisite  bines  and  greens  of  the  hottest  basins  are 
due  solely  to  the  \arying  depths  of  water.  On  the 
other  hand,  the  bright  lemon,  red  and  green  shades 
of  the  cooler  jkioIs  are  entirely  \egetable  in  their 
nature,  and  due  to  the  presence  of  algie  lining  the 
basins  and  striping  their  outer  walls. 

The  njiper  basins  are  geucally  shallow, 
because  of  the  ra|)id  deposit  of  lime,  but  this  depo- 
sition occurs  after  the  overflow,  thus  forming  wluil 
is  called  the  Marble  Hasius,  after  which,  the  water 
being  somewhat  cooled,  the  deposit  is  slower. 
.Accordingly,  we  find  that  the  lower  slopes  are 
exquisitely  fringed  with  slender  stalactites  and 
pilL.rs,  forming  the  beautiful  I'ulpit  Hasius  as  shown 
in  the  illustration. 


fiC.HO  CANON    F-Al.l.S,   IN    ROCKY   .MOUNTAINS,   NbAR   M1UVA1.E,   .MONTANA. 


The  (tovernmenl  has  ex]ieuded  Luge  sums  of  nionex  in  making  roads  through  the  most  interesting  sections  of  the  ])ark,  and  over 
these  we  ])ursued  a  greater  part  of  our  wa\  in  re.i'bing  the  places  which  we  <lesired  to  photograph.  .\  stage  runs  through  the  park,  in 
which  visitors  may  make  the  tour  in  six  days,  but  for  manifest  reasons  we  traveled  b\  private  conveyances,  camping  out  as  often  as  we  took 
quarters  at  the  several  hotels  located  at  convenient  (list.inces  along  the  route. 

Leaving  the  Mammoth  Hot  Sjirings  terraces,  whose  iuconi])arable  beauties  must  ever  remain  as  a  delightful  reineinbrancc,  we  traveled 
southward  b\-  the  Hoodoos,  and  entered  the  ("loldeu  <  late,  where  a  part  of  the  road  is  built  over  a  canon  and  anotlu-r  part  is  (Mrved  out  of  the 


m 
III) 

lit- 
r 


LIMESTONE  HnflDOOS.  IN  YELLOWSTONE  NATIONAL  PARK. 


.  *; 


^.!ll 


«' 


AMIvRICA'S  WUXUHRI.AXDS. 


I  :l 


cliffs,  aUiiij^  w  Iiich  tliciv  is  a  clianii  following;  cvi-rv  footsti']).  ( >n  llii'  one 
silk'  ri-^c  prociiiiuuis  wnlls,  w  liilc  en  tiu-  otlii'V  is  a  K"''."i'  "f  alniost  iiifniiti' 
(k'pt'i,  llinnij,'1i  wliii'li  i>hm;;is  ("lanliiuv  Ri\ir,  brokiii  ami  foaiiiiii>;  with 


cascade  aiul   watirfali 


I! 


1(1   tin 


;aU's   tlu'io   is  a  liricf  li-vc 


th. 


clown  aj;aiii  aiiKui 
Pots,  Civstal  Sp 


i;  ficsli  ciiriiisitii'S  tliu  miiti' 


|)ivtl\ 


ca\i 


r  I.aki 


iiails  by  till-  Devil's  I'aiiit- 
iiid   aliiii"'  a  inniiiUain  base 


ciivcivd  with  blasted  pines.  'I'lieu  annther  aseenl,  nntil  the  altilnde  is  m) 
j;reat  that  we  I'minil  snow  in  eonsidvrabk'  patches  as  late  as  jnl\'  1st. 
Htit   besides  the  b\il>blin'4  spring 


d 


spnttenny;    sulphnr  vats 


local 


ions  were  marked  here  and  there  in  the  distance  b\-  thi'ir  streams  ol 


vaiior,  onr  interest  w.is  ch, lined  b\  the  obsidian  clitfs  on 


'1 

mountain  of  mineral  <;i 
the  dnskv  backi/ronnd, 


onr 


.•ft, 


b 


iss  thai  sp.irkled  with 


lalnral  lustre 


.f 


strewed  about  were  broken  bits  that  made 


the  sjiot  res 


111 


e  remains  o 


f  a  «1 


iss  tactorv. 


.\t  e\erv  few  ])aces  we  .-tartlecl  a  woodehiick  which,  satisf)  in;^  h 


ciiriosit\-  \\i 


th 


lance,  (|i 


lickl 


y  disappeared  anion!. 


the  stones. 


Deir 


were  occasionally  seen  scaniperiny;  throiiiLih   tlie  dead   pine  loresl, 


we  reached  Heaver  Lake  twi 


)  solemn   l)liie  cr.ines  crossed  onr  ro.K 


tried  to  hide  their  br 


Mid  m  a  l^a 


of  th 
the  li 


tell  of  tall   J 
)f  the  \oiin!. 


The 


' konks 


c  cock,  the  thin  "  pee] 

leii  in  her  •jreat  atritation,  were  e.vtremelv  amiisiii'. 


the  peculiar  motions 


weiitv  miles   from   Mammoth   Hot  ,Si 


'S   Hotel   is  the   Xorris 


Oex  ser  I!a-in,   wlie: 


we   were   entertained   with   onr   first   vie\ 


.f  th. 


lonliiiij;  volcanoes  throwiiiir  tip  streams  of  hot  water  and  <rreat  voliti 


^1" 

of  v.ijHir.      This  is  indeed  the   Devil's   Kilclieii,   for  besides  the  hellish 
aspect  of  boilin;:;  caldrons,  tlie  air  is  eharj^ad  with  those  sul|diiiroiis  fnnies 

lis  activitv  and   imiiiedi.itc  ineseiice. 


(1  t. 


o  certaiiih'  iiidic 


ate  1 


that  ar 

There  is  no  sij^ii  of  soil  thereabout,  for  the  surface  is  iiicrnsted  with  a  deep 

deposit  of  lime,  in  wiiicli  vents  occur  to  allow  the  escape  of  j.jases  and  t 

pive  intiuiation  of  th 

We  cnuntiil  eii;hte 


fnr 


ihicli  is  ra 


beneath  onr  feet. 


en  "e\  sers 


nil  the  insecure  poMtion  w 


hich 


took; 


the  most  of  them,  however,  were  infantile  and  irrei,nilar  in  their  action, 
sendins;  u]i  a  shower  of  mud  at  occ.isioual  intervals,  aiwl  then  snbsidint; 
to  j^ather  fresh  force;  but  steam  poured  out  continualK',  and  when  we 
moved  a  little  further  south,  the   roar  of  .Steamboat  C.evser  fell  on  om- 


it, too,  acted  siiasmi 


but  cverv  few  minutes  there 


iwed  fiiiu' 


kl\ 


a  resiuralion,  deeti 


p,   ])ower 


fill 


deep  rlllllbIill<,^   folli 

awful  as  the  rush  of  a  hiirrieaue,  then  a  rexur.L;itatioii,  as  if  the  earth  were 

swallowintr  up  a^aiii  the  ^'as  and  steam  which  she  had  poured  out. 

On  the  brink  of  this  infernal   ]iit,  <listribiited  over  a  considerable 


BOX  CAtoN. 


HYMI-V   TFI'KACKS,   MAMMOTH   HOT  SPklNCS. 


tei^a 


ililUl 


I'll 


iiir 


¥ 


(,l  I.OI'AIKA   A.NlJ   JLPITlik    TKKKACES. 


JUPITER  TERRACH,   MAMMOTH   HOT  SPRINGS. 


-■tftf 


id' 


if 

:l' 

'I! 

Iki 


256 


.\.\ii;ric A'S  \\o\i»i;ri,.\ni)S. 


space,  wolf  Ir.inspaniit  ]»i(ils  cil'  u.iii  r  of  ilii'  ir.o.t  luilli.nil  Inus,  iuclij;ii,  c'i.iiij;c',  ciniiiiu-  .iiicl  I'liur.ilil,  ddwii  in  wliosi'  (U'|itlis  aiv  <|iici'r 
fonnalii>iis  (if  pitrilv  iiii,' al^;;i.',  anil  ImliliUs  that  l,.iik  lili-  jHarls.  .War  lliis  laaiitifiill)- colouil  anil  liaiispaniit  spring' is  Mini  Cicyscr,  a 
basin  Inll  of  inii>li,  that  la/il>-  s|intli.rs  as  llinnj;!!  it  \\\\v  \\\\w^  dmt  a  slow  firi',  awaitinj,'  the  spoon  of  a  tanly  (liniT.  'I'lictv  isanotluT  mnd 
volcano  near  Snlphnr  Monntain,  the  erater  of  wliii-h  is  thirty  feet  deep  and  twentv-fixe  feet  in  diameter,  and  whieli  is  in  a  st.ite  of  constant 
ebullition,  throwing  up  Ki'i'^'t 'l"'""'li'-'^  "f  """1  •""'  >leani  to  a  height  of  I'm)  feet,  and  at  tiinis  shaking'  the  iiionntaiti  witll  its  terrible 
couvnlsions.  dreat  as  were  the  wonders  which  wc  saw  in  Norri.s  Ua.sin,  it  proved  to  be  oidy  the  threshold  of  the  colossal,  the  overpoweriiiH;, 
the  awful  siijhts  which  ue  were  yet  to 
beh.dd. 

The  wcll-con>tnictcd  roadway 
Icadinjj  sonth  from  the  N'orris  (ieyser 
Hasin  is  alonjj;  the  C.ihbon  River,  by 
Johnson  Peak  and  Hot  .Sprinj^s,  into 
Gibbon  Canon,  which,  however,  is  dis- 
tin.>;\iislied  for  its  gracefully  slopin.ij 
sides  rather  than  for  its  cliffs  and  depths. 
A  little  way  to  the  west  the  canon 
becomes  wilder,  anil  just  below  Ileryl 
Spriutr  is  a  hi,i;h  shelf  in  the  river,  over 
which  the  rushing;  watirs  phinj^e  in  a 
fall  of  ninel\-  feet,  lint  the  descent  is 
gradual,  so  that  instead  of  torrential 
dash  the  waters,  after  breakin.y;  on  the 
sharp  projections  of  the  rock  face,  slide 
intulhe  ri\er  below  and  then  speed  away 
to  join  M.idisou  Riwr,  into  which  is 
drained  the  overllowof  ihe  many  active 
geysers.  ThoUj^li  not  precii)itons,  (lib- 
bon  I'.dls  is  a  beautiful  sheet  of  liipiid 
crystals,  rollinj>-  down  terraces  and 
ledges  exquisitely  colored  bv  the  ])res- 
encc  of  different  minerals,  and  in  the 
sunlight  exhibiting  a  sheen  and  bril- 
liance almost  equ.d  to  that  of  Yellow- 
stone Falls.  The  charm  is  eidi.uiced 
bv  deep  coverts  ,)f  pine  tliat  are  rellected  in  the  placidly-nowing  stream  above  and  below  the  falls,  aiul  by  the  castellated  bluffs  that  confnie 
the  waters.  The  prospect  from  the  canon  walls  is  also  deliglulid,  for  towards  every  point  there  is  a  lovely  jiaiuirama  of  remarkable 
diversitv,  including  mountains,  valley  s,  jiarks,  rivers,  and  geysers,  the  latter  showing  themsehes  inan\'  miles  north  and  south,  while  stcaui 
from  boiling  caldrons  rolls  skywards  and  gathers  in  volume  muil  immense  cumulus  clouds  are  formed  that  hang  ominously  above  the 
valley,  or  are  drifted  away  to  break  upon  the  sides  of  the  surronndiug  mountains. 

Continuing  our  trip  .southward  through  Gibbon  Canon  and  by  Gibbon  l-'alls,  whence  the  landscajjc  is  more  level,  we  came  at  length  to 


IN    THI-:    l',l-l  T    VAl.I.HY,    NRAR  CI^HAT   I'AI.I.S. 


THE  (JOLULN  OAIH,   VBLl.OVVSTONB   NATIONAL   PAKK. 

17 


2;S 


AMERICA'S  WUXDKRLANUS. 


I|  r 

ii'l 


Fire-Hole  Creek  aii'l  the  Lower  C'.eyser  Rasin.  We  were  now  in  the  rejjion  of  jjiatit  Rcyscrs,  in  the  visible  presence  of  the  most  terrible 
rii.inifestatioiis  of  natnre.  In  this  pit  of  Acheron,  this  pnrj^atory  of  ferment  and  explosion,  covering  an  area  of  forty  square  miles,  are 
almost  conntless  pexs.MS,  distribnteil  in  seven  groups,  as  if  banded  in  rivalry.  One  of  these  groups  is  near  the  center  of  the  l)asin  and  has 
one  huudred  orifues  that  spout  steam  and  water,  reseudding  from  a  distance  an  extensi\e  manufactory.  The  most  interesting  feature  of 
the  Lower  r.a>in  is  I'ountain  Clevser,  which  tiirows  a  column  oi  water  twenty  feet  in  diameter  to  a  height  of  fifty  feet,  though  it  i)lays  only 
at    intervals  of   many    days.      Near-by    is 

Nbiiniment  Basin,  so  called  from  the  forma-     l!»      '  "  •     ' 

lii'us  oi  e\cry  concei\able  shape  which 
di>linguish  it.  Kvaugeline  (ii\>(.r  is 
anullier  eruptive  volcano  that  throbs  and 
thumps  violcutlv  when  in  action,  but  never 
casts  up  w.iter  more  than  a  few  feet  above 
the  surf.ice;  it  h.is  a  beautifully  scalloped 
rim,  with  sm.dl  bowls  of  exquisite  incrnsta- 
tions,  rc-cmbling  some  of  the  b.isius  in 
M.mnuoth  Terraces.  It  is  in  the  I'jiper 
basin,  eij^ht  miles  further  south,  however, 
that  the  ;^re.itest  of  ge\  sers  are  to  be  seen, 
though  the  area  covered  is  sc.irceh-  three 
square  miles,  and  the  springs  are  less 
numerous.  In  this  region,  very  near  to 
I''ire-IIok-  River,  is  a  spot  called  Hell's 
Half-.\cre,  a  designation  jiecidiarly  appro- 
priate b\  reason  of  the  ]n;rgatori.d  wonders 
which  exist  therein,  and  the  activity  with 
which  old  Nick's  stokers  stir  the  subter- 
r.ine.m  furnaces.  The  largest  gi\ser  in 
til's  liery-hauuted  district,  and  indeed 
nnich  the  l.irgest  in  the  world,  is  Mxcelsior 
Cieyser,  which  has  a  mouth  two  hnmlred 
feet  wide  and  h.as  been  known  to  cast  '.r  a 
Hood  of  water  two  hundred  feet  high, 
carry i.ig  with  it  large  stones  rent  from  the 
walls  of  its  I'lutonian  caverns.  Ivxcelsior 
(lis])lays  its  power  at  very  rare  intervals, 
sometimes  remaining  quiet  for  years;  but  to  our  surprise  and  joy  it  was  in  a  .state  of  violent  eruption  during  our  visit,  and  thus  gave  lis  an 
opportunity  not  only  to  see  but  to  photograph  its  imniensity  and  awfuluess. 

The  most  interesting,  because  alwaxs  reliable,  is  ( »ld  l''aithfiil  deyser,  which  throws  up  a  stream  of  hot  water  six  feet  in  diameter 
bid  feet  high  every  fifty-se\ en  minutes,  and  snst.iins  the  flow  for  a  pericid  of  five  minutes.  The  amount  of  water  thus  discharged  everv 
hour  is  1(KI,(.MI0  gallons,  or  enough  to  supply  a  small  river.     The  Uee-hive,  located  oil  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  blows  up  a  column  of 


LIBERTY   CAP   AND   MA.M.MCITH    MOT  SKRINCiS   HOTEL. 


II 

11 


l;\CI;LSIOI<    (.LVbhIi    IN    ACTION. 


Wi 


260 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


•i  ,  I 


I      


I    llM 


water  three  feet  in  diametc'  to  a  hcij^lit  of  2")(>  foet,  and  plays,  o;eiicrally,  for  fifticii  iniiiutos,  hut  at  intervals  of  twenly-fonr  hours.  The 
C'liantess  is,  for  several  reasons,  tlionnst  iuterestiniLlof  all  the  THO  n-cv  sets  within  X.itional  I'ark.  One  may  approach  to  the  \ery  brink  of  her 
crater,  which  is  twenty  fvet  across,  and  look  down  one  hundred  feet  into  her  hot  throat  and  hear  the  tierce  )j;nri;Kn>;  of  water,  hut  none  is 
visible  until  an  eruption  is  about  to  occur.  Then  the  sputterinjj  increases,  deep  jjmans  are  audible,  and  a  burst  of  steam  is  followed  bv  a 
dischari;e  of  water  that  shoots  upward  in  a  succession  of  jets.  The  first  main  column  sent  up  reaches  a  heij^lit  of  si.xty  feet,  through  which 
there  are  projected  small 
streams  a  foot  in  diameter  to 
a  height  of  I'.'iO  feet-  thus  mak- 
\ng  a  magnificent  display  for 
twentv  minutes  which  nothing 
artificial  can  ever  rival. 

GLint  ("icyser  is  less  pre- 
tentious thai'  the  ("liantess, 
having  a  ragi^ed  cone  th.it  is 
broken  on  one  side,  and 
through  a  vent  ei.ijht  feet  in 
diameter  a  discharge  is  ma<le 
at  irreijular  interv.'.ls,  when  a 
stream  of  water  is  tossed  to  a 
heiyht  varying  from  "."•  to  '200 
feet,  and  the  acli\  ity  some- 
times contiiuies  for  two  or  tliree 
hours.  Other  geysers  tli.it 
make  fine  displ.iys  are  the  S.i  w- 
mill.  Turban,  Crrotto,  Punch- 
Howl,  Sod."-,  (",r.iiid,  Fan,  and 
Riverside,  some  of  which  are 
never  quiet,  while  others  play 
only  occasionally.  It  has  been 
found  by  experiment  tli.it  for- 
eign sub.stances  thrown  into 
some  of  the-se  craters  create 
an  agitation  that  freqnentl\ 
results  in  eruptions;  the  intro- 
duction of  soap  or  lye  is  in- 
variably attende.i  by  some  manifestation  even  in  the  quiet 
imtnediately  after  an  eruption  has  taken  place. 

After  two  days  spent  among  the  I'pper  and  l.oucr  ILisin  C.eysers,  with  onr  cameras  in  constant  service,  for  the  sun  shone  brighth-, 
we  went  a  few  miles  fnrtner  c'jwii  to  I.one  vSt.ir  Ceyscr,  Ilnl  .Sprin-s,  aiid  to  the  liinh  l.nids  above  Ciiant's  i'ass.  Imoiii  this  latter  |)oiiit  01 
obser\'ation  a  magnificent  view  was  had  and  idiotographs  obtained  of  ilie  Great  Teton  Mountains  and  Snake  River  Valley,  which  fill  the 


ClIPIIl'S   rWH,   MAM.MOTH   HOT   SPRINGS. 
4c\  sers,  while  the  acti\e  ones  are  by  this  means  made  to  flow  again  almost 


nil 


r"T 


26  J 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


I 


il'l 


I  h 


distiince  with  lines  of  liazy  sraiulciir.  Tiiniing  tlu-ii  towards  the  cast  \vc  crossed  Norris  Pass  (S, :!.")()  feet  altitude),  and  after  twenty  miles 
of  travel  enierj;ed  from  the  forest  and  reached  the  Thumb  of  Yellowstone  Lake,  as  it  is  called,  Tiiis  magnificent  body  of  water  is  fifteen 
mi!vS  wide  by  twenty-five  in 
leni^th,  and  is  a  basin  of  won 
derful  beauty,  thus  described 
by  Mr.  I,an,<;ford: 

"  Secluded  amid  the  loftiest 
peaks  of  the  Rocky  McMintains, 
possessing  strange  peculiarities 
of  form  and  beauty,  this  watery 
solitude  is  one  vi  the  most 
attractive  objects  in  the  world. 
Its  southern  shore,  indented 
with  long,  narrow  islets,  nut 
unlike  the  fre(|uent  fiords  of 
Iceland,  bears  testimony  to  the 
awful  uphe.ival  and  tremen- 
dous force  o  ■  the  elements 
which  resulted  in  its  creation. 
Islands  of  enur.ild  hue  dot  its 
surface,  and  a  margin  of  spark- 
ling sands  forms  its  setliui;. 
The  winds,  compressed  in 
their  pass.ige  through  tin- 
mountain  gorges,  lash  it  into 
a  sea  as  terrible  as  the  fretted 
ocean,  covering  it  with  fo.im." 

In  several  pi, ices  along  the 
shore,  and  even  projecting 
from  the  lake,  are  several  boil- 
ing hot  springs,  which  (lowing 
with  clear  water  holding  liim- 
in  solmion,  pvramid.d  cones  are 
thus  built  '  -oinid  theirontlels, 
gi\ing  to  them  the  appearance 
of  ant-mounds  when  seen  at  a 

distance.      I'mfessor  Havdcn 

,      ,,  .,,    ,,         ,    ,'         ,  RUSTIC   FAIIS,  r.CliriKN   r.ATH   HOAO. 

startles  ns  with  the  statement 

that  he  has  caught  fish  from  the  ice-cold  lake  while  standing  on  these  mounds,  and.  dropping  iheni   iiUo  the  craters  of  hot  water,  had  the 

novel  experience  of  cooking  the  fish  without  reinu\ing  them  Itoni  the  hook. 


^  T?' 

vJ 

-^  ' 

'"       '  ""  *  "'S-     ■•■ 

/>;'.' 

19 

V 

« 

.*■•>'- 

\ 

.  f 

Pw 

^^ 

r- 

/ 

J-  ■■ ...   '"■  .^ 

r     J*- 

r 

■ 

f 

• 

; 

( 

t 

~~-- 

■ 

f 

(i^j''          "|^?$S^-/4-. ;;••:*'  •.-  ,  ii^f-^^Majglj^llJ 

^           »^w-i^>  V--*iii:,-\:^\-^--^"*^>^'^i^^ 

1 

<^  / 

* 

♦  •"^■-~^~-      " 

■*■   "*  "  ';■"  "-Tk. 

ri:Cl_",^^^ 

^^^^^^^p^^^^aBi 

x' 

• 

-< 

■     -^■^»r~-i.ajajfc^  v..^ -\   ■     ■-',_ 

I^S":^^^^§^^^^^Sl 

%     .,        ^  ^fc:  ':::' '  ;-^'^^'=^=-*-^'^^--;  ■ 

■'» 

-IpyJl^B^'^.,  ,f,a^(Si>.^ ■  ■' 

— -*CNrf»fc.i .                  _    ^^        .•._.^     _        ^      -rp,MC^;^^ 

■> 

""■>-';:' ^sSi^^, 

-■  r\      ^.^^:''-~'- 

/^ 

.^ 

A    •       ■  ■: 

..-  r                         •        ■                                ^  "T^  -- 

-   ^ 

1    ■. 

HISHINC    I  ROW    YRI.i.OWSTONR    I  AKE,    AND  COOKINCJ   TISH    IN    IHI-:   CONH   OF    AN    ACTIVE   GEYSbR. 


I" 

it  lit 
I' 


264 

Tr.iviliiifj  alonjjthe  shores  of  Yellowstone 
Lake  fur  a  distance  of  souK'tliiiij;-  more  than 
thirty  miles,  we  came  to  Lake  Motel,  and 
beyond  that  the  cliffs,  which,  liowever,  are 
scarcely  deserving;  of  notice  wlieii  bronijht 
into  comparison  with  the  Colnnmar  Cliffs  of 
the  Yellowstone  Canon,  soon  to  be  described. 
Continniny;  onr  circuit  <.)f  the  ])ark,  we  fol- 
lowed the  main  road,  running  alontj  Yellow- 
stone Ri\er,  past  Mud  (ie\ser  and  Sulphur 
Mountain,  until  we  found  acconnnodations  nt 
Canon  Hotel,  tiie  center  of  another  district  of 
wonders,  where  we  tarried  for  three  day>,  to 
employ  our  enerj;ies  in  takiuy;  views  of  the 
extraordinarily  fjrand  and  awfully  imposing 
natural  objects  which  cluster  hereabout  in  the 
Canon  of  the  Yellowstone. 

A  sliort  distance  from  the  hotel  is  Mount 
Washiny;ton,  whose  massive  Jiead  is  rai>cil  to 
a  height  of  10,,"i(l()  feet  above  the  sea;  but  so 
gradually  sloping  are  its  sides  that  an  easy 
roadwav-  has  been  made  to  the  summit,  which 
we  ascended  and  from  that  loftv  ]xak  sur- 
veyed the  vast  landscape  that  was  in  the  field 
of  vision;  and  what  a  glorious  panova  1,1  was 
there  presented  !  We  were  indeed  upon  tin- 
tnpmost  ridge  of  the  (Vreat  Continental  I)i\  ide, 
with  the  whole  world  apparently  at  "ur  leet. 
Towards  the  far  west  and  the  distaii*  -;outh, 
as  the  i.iuge  makes  a  sharp  cur\e,  were  the 
high  and  snow-crested  [leaks  of  the  Kcick\- 
Mountains,  among  which  we  readih-  distiu- 
gnished  the  ma-jestic  Tetons,  upon  which  the 
sacred  fires  lighted  b\-  ver\-  ancient  tribes  ol 
Indian.- are  said  to  be  still  burning.  To  the 
northwest  are  the  Madison  and  (lallatin 
Mountains,  dropping  gracefully  towards  the 
ea.st  niuil  lliev  form  what  appears  to  lie  the 
western  walls  of  Yellowstone  Yallex',  speckled 
■with  its  hundreds  of  steam-vomiting  springs. 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


HEAUTY   SI'KIN(.   i  i  )|.'.M,\  1  lUN. 


la-NCKAl.   VIbVV   OH   THb    MJKKIS   HAMN   iiKYSKRs. 


266 


AMlvRICA'S  WOXDHRI-AXDS. 


I 


I' 

IMP 

■I   •■ 

lln  ; 


The  mountaiiKius  aspect  of  the  wesleni  \  iew 
luis  its  cmmterp.irt  iutlie  ttmiiiltiums  l.iiul- 
sc.ipe  wliieli  fleets  lis  on  tlie  c;ist,  for  tlie 
llori/oii  is  Nidkeii,  and  the  bine  sl<y  pierced 
Iiy  the  vShoslione  Ranije,  wliicli  we  follow 
towards  the  iiortli  as  far  as  iMiiij^rrant  Peak, 
as  it  thrusts  its  brazen  front  out  of  tlie 
Snow\-  Rans^'c.  Still  fnrtlier  west  we  per- 
ceive the  ontlines  of  the  Stinkinjj;  and  Hi";- 
Horn  Riser  \'alle\s,  rnnninij;  in  a  north- 
wesicrly  direction,  past  I'ort  Cii  'er  an< 
the  tragic  Cnster  hattle-tield,  nntil  the\- 
ineri^c  intci  the  Yellowstone  X'alley,  two 
hnndred  miles  front  the  park.  In  the  clear 
depths  of  the  far  southwest  we  perceisi-  a 
^ditter  in  the  tenuons  atnios)iliere,  wdiich 
our  y;lasses  discover  to  us  to  be  eanse 
b\-  snow  on  the  Wind  Ri\er  Mountain 
peaks  reflectin.y;  the  brilliant  snali;^lu. 
This  nia<,Miificent  rauj;e,  that  leaps  out 
the  pi  uns  of  Wvcinuny,  and  after  rnnnin'^ 
one  hundred  miles  disappears  a.L;ain  in  the 
prairie,  .Utains  such  a  lofty  altitude  that 
the  Wind  River  Shoshone  tribe  re;^anl  it 
as  the  crest  of  the  world.  And  the\-  li,i\e 
a  le;,'end,  borrowed  from  the  HIackfiet,  lh.it 
ouh  one  warrior  e\er  reached  the  summits, 
from  which  lie  was  permitted  to  look 
directly  into  the  hajipy  lmntiii.L;  ^'rounds 
and  survey  all  the  entrancinjj;  beauties  'if 
that  delectable  land  of  ha]  pv  spirits.  lint 
if  tlie  distant  prospect  is  ]ile,isiiii;,  Imw 
iiiiKli  more  delii^htfnl  i.-,  tlie  U(jnder  \alii  ■ 
that  lies  at  our  feet!  Lookiii;;  down  froui 
our  e.Nceeding  hii,r!i  eminence,  we  beho'd 
with  amazement  the  ftrand  CaTioii  of  Ihi- 
Yellowstone,  a  nijr^Ultic  yash  ill  the  iiionnt- 
ains  twenty  miles  lit  lllUljIli  aili|  Wiltcjl  \]u 
phr.   o(  (  Uonilolpi  W.lll  llillhi   |||:|1   Kuillille 


iinsiAl.   L.\M  AI'U,    1^!'   I  l;l;l    IlKiH. 


Tllh   CKAILK   Ul-   CASil.li   iJHYShK.    VELl.OWSlUNt   P,U**k. 


»• 


26S 


AMIvRlCA'S  \V0X1)I';RLA\1)S. 


I'l 


Pcscciulinir  fnmi  Mduiit  W'^isliiiiytoii,  we  iniHuiUd  hy  tlie  ni;i(l\v:iy  lliicui!;!)  a  iliip  furtst  of  pines  until  ])rfsi'titl\'  \vc  jjiiiiicd  t1\f 
liriiik  iif  a  lvi;^luiul  cli.isni  niMilv  l',immi  \^■^■^  (ki'j),  omv  wliii'li  tlii'  riwi  jxhuimI  in  tiinunilons  fdii-i'  and  had  a  slii-iT  dinp  of  I  III  fci'l.  'I'liis 
is  ilk'  I'liprr  I'.ilis,  anil  a  j^Mand  naturi-pictun.'  llu'v  i-iinipiist>.  Hut  tin-  nia^uilii-i'Mi-i'  lA  tlu'  sciaii'  is  ini;^r|itily  inciiMsiMl  ii'ss  tliaii  lialf  a  mile 
l)cl(i\v,  wIr'IV  tJK-  cano,]  walls  rapidly  contt:u-t  and  anntlu-r  ^Mialrr  ])rfi'ipii'L'  has  heiMi  tornicd.  lleiv  the  mad  waters  take  a  violent  tninhle 
of  :l.">n  feet,  at  Lower  Ivills,  and  are  tossed  up  a^ain  in  a  mist  that  sometimes  heeluuds  the  valley.  Hut  reeoveriuK  its  foree,  the  river  plnnj^es 
on  with  renewed  eneri^v,  as  tin 
deseiiit  increases,  until  out  i>ti 
the  );looin\  dipt  lis  it  a!^,.iu| 
enieryes  ior  one  more  linal  leap] 
ol   l.Ml  feet,  at  Tower  h'alls. 

While  tl'.e  la  11-  are  of 
e\traordinar\-  inlere>t,  the\'  aie 
not  more  than  the  wortln  aeei  - 
sovies  of  a  eanon  whieh,  ihoU'^li 
not  the  j,'reate>i,  i^  in  some 
respeets  the  nio-t  sublime  of  a:r. 
on  the  Atuerieau  eoiuiueut.  Mi. 
Archil), lid  C.eikie,  an  I'.  iii;iish 
seientist,  has  ;^i\en  the  foUowiuLj 
admirable  description  of  Yellow- 
stone Canon,  admirable  n<it  only 
for  its  >,'rai)hic  i)ietnriii;j:,  luit  aNo 
because  it  is  an  I-ai.t;lishiii.iu's 
tonfession  that  tlure  is  sonie- 
thinj,'  really   ijrand   in   .\ineric.i: 

"  Scrambliiis.;  to  the  c<lj;e  of 
one  of  the  bastions  and  lookinj^ 
down,  we  coidd  see  the  ri\er  far 
below,  dwarfed  to  a  mere  sihiT 
thread.  I'rom  this  al)\  ss  the 
craff.s  and  slo])es  towerei!  up  in 
endless  v.iriety  of  form,  and  with 
the  weirdest  miuj,din.u;  of  colors. 
Much  of  the  rock,  espeeiallv  of 
the  more  crnmblin>j  slopes,  was  '■'""o^-  '^  \"  "^-   ^'^^  IcnVSTfAH   I'ARK. 

of  a  jiale  sulphnr-\ellow.  Throui^h  this  ^'rnuiidwnrk  harder  masses  of  dull  scarlet,  nierj;ini;  into  purple  ;ind  crimson,  rose  into  cragjfj' 
knobs  and  jiinnacles,  or  shot  up  in  slu<  r  \euic,il  walls.  In  the  snnli.nlit  of  the  niorninjj  the  place  is  a  bla/c  of  straiif^e  color,  such  as  one 
can  liardly  see  anywhere  s,i\e  in  the  crater  of  an  arti\e  volcano,  lint  as  the  dav  wanes,  the  shades  of  e\enin};,  sinkinj;  neiitly  into  the 
depths,  blend  their  livid  tints  into  ,i  str.iiis^e,  iinsterious  };loom,  through  which  one  can  still  see  the  white  },deam  of  the  rushiii};  river  and 
hear  tlie  distant  mnrmnr  of  its  flow.     Now  is  tile  time  to  ,see  the  full  majesty  of  the  canon.      I'erched  on  an  outstanding  crag,  one  can  loolc 


(iKANU  CANON   Ol-    THh    Ytl.l.UVVSrONb. 


y 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


k 


A 


//     «*  >.^ 


4^ 


/. 


^ 


1.0 


I.I 


128 


^  122 


.u...  1^ 


ui    lift 

■"     L  0 

■Si      ■■■ 


2.0 


I 

Ml 


6" 


(Olographic 

Sciences 

CorpGration 


23  WEST  MAIN  STRECT 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSi) 

(716)  872-4S03 


'^ 


^  ! 


c> 


^ 


I^w 


' 


I 


I 


270  AMERICA'S  WOXDKRLANDS. 

down  llie  ravine  and  mark  headland  beliind  luadland  mounting;  ont  of  the  jjathcriiiy;  shadows  and  eatohinj;  ni>i)n  their  scarred  fronts  of  red 
and  yellow  the  mellower  tints  of  the  sinking  snn.  And  alio\e  all  lie  the  <lark  folds  of  [tine  sweejiin;^  alonj;;  the  crests  of  the  precipices, 
wliich  tney  crown  with  a  rim  of  j;reen.  There  are  i;orj;es  of  far  more  imposinj^  maj^nitiule  in  the  Colorado  Itasin,  Init  for  dimensions  larj^e 
enonyh  to  he  i)rofoiin(lly  striking;,  yet  not  loo  \ast  to  he  taken  in  by  the  eye  at  once,  for  infinite  chanj;es  of  i)icUires(inc  detail,  and  for 
brilliancy  and  endles-;  variety  of  colnrin^,  there  are  probaMv  few  scenes  in  the  wnrhl  more  imiiressive  than  the  Cirand  Canon  of  the 
Yellowstone."  Ahnij;  the  tweiUy  miles  of  caTion  where  the  walls  are  hi<;lKst  they  have  been  carved  by  jjlacial  ajjencies  and  weather- 
worn into  many  ciirions  form>,  (generally  colnninar,  bnt  sometinRS  jiresentintif  the  ai)pearancc  of  spires,  domes,  turrets  and  crenelated 
balllei'ients,  and  everywhere  the  matchless  colors  of  ytllow,  red,  green,  and  many  tints  are  present.  After  passing  down  the  extreme 
lens^th  of  the  canon,  we  took  the  less  =- 
traveled  road  runnin.i;  east  from  |- 
Vancy's  Camp  and  visited  the  iKlrified 
fi'vsts;  and  here  we  bej^jan  to  compre- 
hend more  thoronj;lily  than  before  the 
niysteries  of  the  Yellowstone  Park 
Kasin.  The  e\  iilence  is  here  abnndant 
that  in  the  remote  ]iast  this  entire  rej^ion 
of  ;!7.'>  stpiare  milts  was  a  pleas.mt  vale, 
where  a  Inxnriant  forest  abounded,  and 
many  monster  animals,  long  since  ex- 
tinct, ft>nnd  a  pleasant  abode.  I-'oUow- 
in>,'  this  period  of  deli.i;htfnl  natural 
conditions,  there  succeeded  a  flood  of 
ice  that  came  .sweeping  with  almost 
miimaginable  fence  from  the  north, 
grinding,  tearing  and  destroying  until 
the  regitin  was  demuled  and  the  very 
earth  furrowed  and  torn  into  the  wou- 
i.erful  disfigurements  which  we  now 
behold.  In  thi.s  tertific  flood  the 
mountains  were  precipitated  and 
folded  njion  the  forests  and  buried 
with  the  monster  animals  that  had 
.sonj^ht  refuge  in  the  spots  which 
became  their  cemeteries.  In  the  rents  thus  made  the  grinding  ice  flowed  until  it  reached  the  internal  furnace  of  the  world,  which  generating 
gases  and  steam,  exiilos'ons  followed  that  unx-  wider  the  earth's  wond)  and  made  the  region  a  fiery  cave.  Into  the  devious  caverns  thus  formed 
water  from  nnder<;ro',ind  rivers  continues  to  flow,  over  subterranean  fires  that  convert  it  into  steam,  and  thus  at  the  many  vents  we  observe 
the  ever  active,  thonj;h  constantly  war.inj.;,  ener<;ies  of  the  volcano. 

lint  there  have  been  two  glacial  'Irifts  over  a  great  part  of  North  America,  and  the  second  ice-flood  .scoured  the  earth  in  stich  manner 
as  to  fretpiently  uncover  the  forests  and  animal  remains  that  were  buried  by  the  first  gnnit  deluge.  It  is  in  the  region  of  the  Petrified  aiul 
Tossil  Forests  that  we  note  the  evidence  of  the  truth  of  this  theory;  not  only  in  Yellowstone  Park,  but  in  the  Bad  Lands  of  Dakota,  the 


YtLLOWSTONK   RIVER,  NEAR   MUD  GEYSER. 


iir 

111  '■ 


^ 


|l!h' 


nil. 


ir' 


't'fi 


"fl 


BISt'.ni    HASIN. 
IS 


.\mi:rica'S  \V()X1)i;ri,.\\1)S. 


M' 


(« 


<Ir\  laki.'  l).i^iii>  cif  ilii'  Soiuli\vi>t  .iiul,  in  I'.u't,  in  lu.iilv  i\ir\  Sl.iU-  ni  tlu'  rnion.  lint  in  Wllinvstonr  I'.iik  tlii'  iitnaiiis  of  iU'lrifK-d  tii'fs 
ail'  i>.nlii.'ul.iil\  niinuiiins,  and  it  is  luiv  thai  \m'  uli^ivvt-  tin.'  niii>t  luautilnl  s]K'ciini.'iis  of  i-lialiiilnnv  Kin),'  almiit  in  |itc>niisfu<ins  prudisidii, 
liki-  tlu-  rnins  nf  smin.-  nMi^nituinl  |>.iUui'.  I'Airv  tin-  luiv,  oMiwlKlnnil  liy  tlio  ii'i-llodil,  lii-ianii',  in  a  tliiMis.mtl  \iars  tlii'ivaftiT,  a  ]iillar 
ol  tin.'  ni">t  i\iiui>iti-  lii.intv ,  and  «».■  imw  cxaniiiif  tliiin  with  wondiiini;  iiiiio>it\ ,  thiii  idiivtrt  thini  into  artii'k'S  of  usi-  and  adonnniMit. 
Thi-  >.un(.-  tluniii.al  aitinn  which  chanj;i'<l  the  fou'sls  of  this  union  into  j;cni-!ik»'  stoni',  also  pri'SiTvcd  tilt-  honi's  of  many  hnye 
CRMtiin-s  wliiih  nut  their  ilr.uh  sml- 
<Iiiiiv  in  this  Milc.un' h.i>in.  lleieaMd 
thiTc  s]ii'(.'inu-n  n-Iics  cvf  ^iyantic  ani- 
mals may  hi'  Innnd  in  the  fossil  district 
cast  of  Yellowstone  Ki\er,  Ihonyh  the\ 
are  heconiiny;  scarce  hicanse  of  the 
innnense  iiiiantilx'  that  has  been  carried 
away  liv  scientific  hone  collectors  and 
the  aihnirers  of  cnrions  things  dnrinjf 
the  several  years  that  the  park  has  been 
a  i>o]inlar  resort. 

In  this  same  district  there  is  a  de- 
pression or  hasin,  ahont  three  hnndred 
vards  in  diameter,  which  has  received 
the  title  of  Death  X'alley,  a  desi;;nation 
that  is  appropriately  apjilied  hecause  it 
is  not  only  an  ossnary,  where  the  hoius 
of  nian\- animals  lie  ahont  in  i>rcimi--cu- 
ons  prof\isi<m,  hut  such  noxious  j^ases 
emanate  from  the  hasin  that  it  is  repre- 
sented as  a  place  where  no  creature  can 
snrvivc  the  exhalations  for  more  than 
a  few  minntes. 

I-'xamination  nf  tlie  remains  found 
therein  re\eals  the  fa't  that  hears, 
<leer,  woKes,  a  mi>uulaiu  lion,  and 
numerous  small  animals  lia\e  died  of 
asphyxi.ition  in  trsinj,'  to  ))ass  over  the 
accursed  .ground.  Hut  as  the>e  sulphur- 
ous ya-es  have  the   power  to   kill,  thev 


CRAii;!?  or  onidMi  (.1  vsi-:k. 


..ve  also,  to  a  cert.iin  extent,  the  virtue  to  preserve,  the  hndies  of  creatnies  thus  destroyed  :  xhihitins^  slij^ht  evidences  of  decav  for  a 


ir  more  after  death.     On  account  of  the  <\. 


iiijer  atten<hn''  a  en 


tical 


invest!^. ition  of  this  noxious  pla)^ne-'>])ot,  those  who 


nth 

\isited  the 


place  have  been  compelled  to  exercise  great  caution,  and  to  nse  field-j^lasses  in  makinj;  their  examinations.      One  rash  person  is  known  to 


lave  attemjiled  a  ]]as--a 


;e  of  the  h,i>iu,  lint  he  was  in. 


d>le  t. 


idv.mce  mure  than  tvveiitv  \ard 


(I  had  he  not  retained  the  i)restnce  of  mind 


to  hold  his  hreatli.  vvluu  he  found  him-elf  aliicled  Iiv  the  };as,  escajie   from  certain  death  would   hardly  have  heen  possihle.      No  scientific 


n^^T^^ 


r' 


1 1 


l.lMbSrONK  PINNACl-KS  IN  HKJ  HORN  KIVER  CAtoN. 


'^'1' 


IIM." 
Ill 

i 


A    IMNCII    ON     nil:    I  II  III-;    MISM)l'|/|    UWlAi. 


'((■ 


.  nil 


a-S 


AMIvRICA'S  W  (  >N1)I;RI..\\1)S. 

i>   I   li,i\i'  Ixiii  .iMi-  1<>  liM''i,  .1  111   npiiiN  <il   l'i>-  iliMilK-   1  sh.il.itinns  wliivli  fli^iiiu-liii/f  it 


and  iDrtmi.ilil) ,  im  iliml)t,  \rry  ililVuiill  to 


iii\f>lij;.ili>r  li.i>  t'\ir  \  i^iliil  tin-  spnt,  so  (,ii 

llicri'liiiv  I'oiiK-  lii'iii  till-  U\v  ]iiVMiiis  win;  li.iw  appru.iilKil  tin-  iilu'c  out  of  i.MMi'>>il\ .  It  is 
iv.uli,  til. It  iHirtiou  111  tlic  I'.iik  l)iiii>; 
alinust  iiiaii.t.^>ili.c  liv  rcasmi  ol  llic 
rujjKi'tl  ti)]vi^iai'llv,  tlii-  ja>;>;i'(l  stones 
and  alnii)>t  iiii]i.is>alili'  crc\  iiis  wliich 
snrround  it.  No  kluN  li.ivc  bn-ii 
.siirvfved  111  iIk-  Incalin  ,  and  (nily  the 
intrciiid.vintuioiis  and  a;;  i  It- can  nacli 
the  niali;;iiant  basin,  at  tlie  tApiiisc- of 
urt-at  itfort  and  ciidnraiuv;  ior  it  is 
easier  to  cliiiil)  the  Tilon-  lli.ui  In  sin- 
iiionnt  till-  j;iiiii  liairiirs  w  liiili  yu.ird 
Death  N'.ilKy.  A-Miiiiiiii,'  that  the 
reports  made  li\'  >e\t.r.il  persons  who 
elaiiii  til  lia\e  \  isiled  ihi-  spot  are  true, 
and  which  there  is  not  laekiiii;  reason 
to  believe,  an  eNplaiialionof  itsdeadly 
character  is  not  dilVicnlt  to  jjive,  be- 
cause similar  eonditions,  thonjjli  in 
much  loser  deijree,  are  found  in  ni.iny 
localities  within  the  I'ark. 

The  j;e\sers,  such  as  are  now 
active,  are  coiit'ineil  within  a  district 
whose  radius  does  not  exceed  twciity- 
tive  miles,  but  there  are  iiiii|Uestionable 
evidences  that  tiey  were  distributed 
<i\er  a  much  j^reater  area  before  the 
List  j;lacial  epoch.  Indeeil,  appear- 
ances iiidic.-xte  that  .it  one  liuu  ,  in  the 
very  remote  past,  the  whole  present 
extent  of  the  I'ark  was  occupied  b\ 
either  a  sea  of  fire  or  a  tremendous 
cluster  of  volcanoes.  When  the  j;la- 
cial  cat.istrophe  occurred  the  mount- 
ains on  the  north,  wlunee  the  ice-tlood 
<Kscended,  were  pusjied  forward  ami 
deposited  in  the  l"ier\'  basin.  V,y  this 
;!Ction  the  formerly  monnt.iinous  kinds  to  the  north  were  leveled  and  became  \ast  jilains,  as  we  now  find  them.  The  caldron  of  llery  activity 
v.i.s  filled  up  by  the  material  thus  deposited,  but  colilinenient  of  the  K''"**--^!  which  were  beinji;  constantly  generated,  caused  rejiealed  explosions, 


CiKfJTTCl  C.HYSHK. 


^*'l' 


II 


W      li 


HARVEST  SCtNt  ON   DALRYMPLBS   I  ARM,   NOR  I II   DAKOTA. 


'  5"  T<' 


2, So 


AMI-;UIC.\'S  WONDl-KLANDS. 


the  ri'sulls  <if  « liiili  \vi-  liiiil  ill  iIk'  cirnins  lli.it  r.iinifv  ihc  (lisnii't.  I(  will  ni>t  f.iil  In  isim|H' tin- iintii-o  of  tin- j»iM)l()>;ist 
liviTS  and  stif.iins  tli.it  pi'iu'tniti'  tlii'  i'aik,  imt  oin-  i>f  tluni  llowt  frniii  tlii'  iiDitli,  llioiiyh  iiinmdiatfly  stmtli  of  (tu-  I'.nk 
l,\\n:»  its  riM'.  .mil  h.is  out  .i  \v.i\'  tlticniKli  tlic  Tctoii  R.iiii;c  tli.it  liiiist  Itavi-  oiu'i-  oppusiil  lis  |i.iss.n>f.  'riu-<f  iiiMimt.iiiis 
ratijji'S  ill  till'  \  iciiiiiy,  arc  .i  I'.irt  ol  tlic  n'siilue  ciirial  down  liy  tlic  >;l.u'ial  flood,  and  thus  i-han^id  tin-  .sloj)c,  which  w.is 
the  south,  to  a  contr.iiv  diuilioii. 
Several  luw  li.i-<ins  wire  ciiatcd  hy 
this  ciioniioiis  dtpositioii,  lor  it  w.is 
imiiossililu,  l)y  riMMHi  of  tlic  criip- 
lions  caused  li\'  esc.ipiii^).;ases,  th.it 
ihe  deposit  should  show  cipLil  dis- 
tlihuliou.  I  Mr-  of  tlli^e  h.i^ills  is 
Death  Valle\ ,  which,  orijjinally  a 
j;eyser  or  \olc.iiio,  w.is  suppressed 
hy  tile  j-laei.d  deposit,  tliou;;h  the 
liiriiace  which  le<l  it  \uis  not  extiii- 
};uislied.  The  coiulilion  is  there- 
lore  like  that  ol  .1  cli.nco.il  kiln, 
whieli,  liiuiiinj^  liciie.ith  a  covcriii;; 
of  e.irth,  still  .illows  the  siiiokc  and 
i;.ises  to  escape.  i'lit  since  the 
;.;e\sers  ,iie  Hot  ])lO(hiee(l  \>\  the 
consuiii|iliiiii  ol  eouiliiistiUle  mate- 
rial, Imt  liy  cheiiiiiMl  decoiiiposi- 
tioii,  tlioii:^h  the  action  of  fire  and 
w.Uer,  no  siiioke  is  created  .md  thus 
none  i>  seen  eseapiuy;  from  the 
\.ille\  ;  liul  the  de.idh-  '^ases,  all  the 
more  poisoiKiUS  liee.iuse  iif  their 
teiiiporarv  contineiiient,  arc  con- 
stantly cxudinjj  tliroM;.^li  the  earlh- 
coxerinj;,  lia\iu.ij;  no  connection 
with  any  aetisc  se\  scr  lhroUi;li 
whose  vent  they  lilij^ht  escape. 

Vellowsione  l',.rk  has  many 
natural  curiosities  wliiili  eiitillc  it 
to  rank  ;is  the  ure.ilist  miiseiim  (pf 
wonders  in  the  world;  Init  it  is  lo 
be  donhted  if  the  j^eysers,  foniM- 
tioiis  of  silica,  and  awe-compelling 
r.inoii.s    can    equal    the   inarsel   of 


th.it  of  the  iiiaiiy 
the  .Sn.ike  Kiver 
,  as  well  as  otluT 
foniierlv  tow.irdn 


^'»' 


III 

I 

IT 

I 

I 


II\I<V1-:STI'II.I  I)    IN    DAKOIA. 


^p 


I' 

Ml; 


2S2 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDHRLANDS. 


DiMlh  N'.ilU'v  .nul  tin-  i.'\i(k'iu\'  whieli  il  suppoils  of  llu-  ^I.iri,\l 
ili.hiL;i.'  tli.il  co'.iM'rUd  ;i  si-,i  of  five  into  ;i  i'Ii,iniiiii<;ly  (iivfisifit il 
wiMiiUil.iiicl.  'riuif  is  .1  !:;iiiii  i-i'inu'ctiiMi  iKtwi'i-ii  tlic  fossil  (Iisliii.t 
in  wliifli  the  IxiiKs  ol  .1)  iii.iny  I'MiiK't  aiiiiiials  hdw  1h'i.'I1  found  so 
lili-iuituUy,  and  iK.uh  \'.ilii\,  in  wliifh  the  u-niains  vi  I'xisliiit 
iMiMturi's  attest  the  ecntinued  di>liui-tive  result  of  the  ice-llood. 
Tnilv,  the  ways  of  l'id\idenee  aie  ways  of  nnstery;  and  the  more 
we  contemplate  them  to  satisfy  tlie  amhition  of  ciiriositv,  the  more 
we  re.ili-e  the  ineomiirelien-iliilit\-  of  tlie  inlinite,  and  that  every 
iu\  ■.mee  steii  is  an  inltrro;^ation  ]ioint  in  our  li\es. 

Alter  niakinj;  an  examination  of  the  j)etrilied  and  fossil  forests, 


THE   BLACK  GROWIHR  r.FYSF.R. 


I.ITTI.E  FIKK-HOI.E  FALLS. 


Ill' 
III) 

If 


AN  inc.\.\\i',\\i-:m  or  sioux  inuiws,  uakoia. 


m 


I    I 


I   .. 


2S4 

wo  ivtraci'il  our  way  and  n'tirmil  to  Main- 
iiiiilli  Hut  S])riii.i;s  IIniil  by  the  mad  tliat 
li-ads  to  Clark's  I'ork  Mines,  a  nmli-  wliifh 
I  cannot  riconinK-nd  to  dyspeptics,  lor  it  is 
worse  than  a  jollin;^  stool.  A  few  lionrs' 
stop  at  the  hotel  to  arranj^e  our  bay^aj^e, 
and  we  resnnied  our  jon.ney  eastwanl  over 
the  Northern  I'aeifie,  wliieh  thereafter  runs 
thron;.;Ii  the  apparenll)-  boundless  plains  of 
North  Dakota.  The  load  follows  the  Yel- 
lowstone from  Livingstone  to  iilendi\e,  a 
distance  of  17.'i  uiiks,  Inil  there  is  little  di- 
versitv  in  the  laudseajie  on  the  imniedi.ite 
liuj.  IW'i  Horn  River  intersects  the  road  at 
Custer  City,  below  which  town,  twent\'  miles, 
on  the  river,  is  I"ort  Custer;  and  the  trai;ic 
field  upon  which  Custer  and  liis  entire  coui- 
maiid  were  slaughtered  by  the  Sioux  Indians 
is  only  twenty-fue  miles  southeast  of  the 
fort,  b'wrythin,^  here.diout  appears  to  be 
a  rueful  reminder  of  that  terrible  l."ith  of 
Juh  ,  l?<7ii,  for  the  name  of  Custer  j^rcets  us 
e\er\  where  we  tuin  luuil  we  ^'t  beyond 
Miles  City,  lietween  this  latter  point  and 
the  Missouri  River  are  the  Had  Lands, 
e\tendin.<;  i<\\r  ,i  lar,i;e  tract  of  countrv  that 
iuebules  both  Mont.uia  and  Dakota,  I'Ut  the 
formation>,  while  curious,  are  not  nearU  so 
wonderfid  as  tlio-e  in  \\'\omini;,  described 
in  an  earlier  chaptrr.  .\lthou.!.;ll  the 
mounds,  monninents  and  ]iillars  of  earth  are 
less  lofty,  the  district  aenuires  a  ])articular 
interest  from  the  fact  that  interspersed  anion;; 
the  e.irtheil  colnnins  are  the  erect  bodiis  of 
])etriflcd  trees,  scarcely  distiiii^uishaldc,  at  a 
little  distance,  howiver,  from  the  faut.istic- 
ally  eroded  luouoliths  that  are  disposed   like 


AMKRILW'S  \\OXI)ERL.\NDS. 


skirmishers  o\er  the  otherwise 
Tluse  so-called  Ha<l   L 


level  plain. 


iilds,  which  reappear 
in  South  Dakota,  :;re  r.ot  \\Ii:il  th;-  ti  r:;-. 


"^ 


■  m 
nil 

iin 

iir 


BI.AC.KFEHr   INDIAN   CAMP. 


If 


,  ''I' 


2S6  AMKRICA'S  WOXUKRLAXDS. 

would  sccin  to  si,t;iiify  for  the  laiul  is  not  lackiii<j;  in  fertility,  lieiiiy;  frcciuciitly  ricli  with  loam,  tlioiii^li  luori-  often  cxtrcnii'ly  sanily  or  covcrctt 
with  soft  sandstones  that  have  been  worn  nutil  they  aru  round  as  cannun-balLs,  Ituleed,  Cannou-JJall  River,  which  flows  into  the  Missouri 
sixty  miles  south  of  Hisniark, 
takes  its  name  from  the  nu- 
merous round  sandstones  that 
are  scattered  alonjj  its  banks. 
Five  miles  below  is  Standing; 
Rock  A>;ency  of  the  Sioux, 
so  called  from  a  saiidstnae 
which  stands  some  three  feet 
tall,  and  by  the  Sioux  is  be- 
lieved to  be  a  petrified  sfpiaw. 
Thus  for  a  considerable  dis- 
tance north  and  sontli,  as  well 
as  east  and  west,  peculiar  for- 
mations characteristic  of  the 
Bad  frauds  are  met  with,  fur- 
nishing proof  that  this  area 
was  once  a  forest,  later  a  great 
salt  sea,  and  then  a  plain, 
each  rejireseutins  a  long 
period  of  time. 

When  we  jjass  James- 
town, coming  east,  we  enter 
the  wheat  bell  of  Dakota  and 
I)ass  fields  of  growing  grain 
like  that  oi  Hal  r\  ni  pie 's, 
which  is  fifty  thousand  acres 
in  extent.  Here  we  come  in 
contact  with  f.irniing  on  a 
gigantic  .scale,  and  see  the 
application  of  steam,  not  only 
for  threshing,  but  for  plow- 
ing, hauling  and  various  other 
uses  in  which  horses  are  gen- 
erally eniploved. 

Thence   on    to    Minne-  HIaNT.  CATFISH,  AND  YOUXr.  rAITHFUI.  CONES. 

apolis  tlie  route  is  through  a  level  country,  crossing  tht  Kcd  Rivei  of  the  North  at  Kargo,  and  by  many  pretty  lakes  to  Hrainard,  where  the 
road  branches,  one  division  leadi.g  to  Diiluth,  and  the  other  taking  a  .southwest  course  to  St.  Paul. 


I'KXIKIH    H<)Mb   Ol     A   CI'HK    INDIAN,    NOKIHhKN    MINNliSOTA. 


m 


!!■■ 


If  I 

"lii 

I ! 

I.:  I 
''   I 


PRRRY  ACROSS  RED  RIVER  OF  THE  NORTH,  NEAR  FAR(iO,  NORTH  DAKOTA. 


CHAI'TIIR  IX 

AMONG  THE  WONDERS  OF  THE  BLACK  HILLS. 


'OON  after  reachiii}i;  St.  Paul  our  ])arty  dividi-d,  two  of  our  plu)to.!L;r:i])licrs  btiu),'  instrucli'd  to  take  views  of  the  falls,  lakes  and  river- 
sccuery  tliereabouts,  wliile  the  other  set  out  with  the  eaniera  car,  over  the  Chicago,  St.  Paul  and  Omaha  Railroad,  to  Sioux  City, 
and  tlienee  by  the  Preniont,  Hlkhorn  and  Missouri  Valley  Railroad  to  I»eadwood.  There  is  nothini^;  of  partieular  interest  to 
entertain  the  traveler  in  search  of  scenic  wonders  until  Iowa  is  crossed  and  we  reach  the  Hijj  Sioux  River;  nor  is  the  iumiediate 
district  about  Sioux  City  one  affording;  scenery  of  unich  importance.  Hut  at  Dell  Ra])ids,  .somethinjj  more  than  one  huiulred  miles 
north,  we  come  in  contact  with  some  suqirises  which  are  without  example,  save  in  the  Wisconsin  Ri\cr,  hereafter  to  be  described. 
The  town  derives  its  name  from  the  remarkable  freaks  of  nature  displayeil  alonjr  the  river-l).inks,  and  known  as  the  Dells,  and  which  are 

reco};uized  as  the  safety-valves  of  the  innnense 
water-power  at  Dell  Rajiids.  This]iieturesque 
stretch  of  fantastic  bluffs  and  ecceulric  stream 
is  thus  described  iiv  a  writer  who  receiUly 
made  the  p.issajrc  in  a  canoe  from  Dell  Rapit' 
to  Sior.x  I'"alls. 

"  Hef,Mnuiu<r  at  a  break  in  the  U\'^  Sioux 
River,  on  th.e  south  bank,  opposite  the  town, 
at  first  the  Dells  present  the  appearance  of  a 
rivulet  tlowiuj^  out  of  the  main  body  of  water, 
takiu),'  a  circuitous  direction  to  re-unite  with 
the  parent  stream  some  two  and  one-half 
miles  further  alony;  its  eccentric  course.  Vet 
only  in  the  hi<;liest  stages  of  its  waters  does 
the  Sioux  overflow  the  dam  across  the  aperture 
between  itself  and  the  Dells,  and  it  becomes 
instantly  apparent  that  it  is  not  from  the  river 
that  this  peculiar  branch,  which  is  not  a 
branch,  obtains  its  water  supjily.  Investijja- 
tion  determines  that  the  Dells  are  fed  by 
invisible  springs,  indeliuite  in  number  and 
indefinable  in  volume,  which  maintain  in 
the  bed  of  this  curious  stream  an  average 
depth  of  about  eleven  feet,  although  a  much 
greater  depth  is  found  in  various  places.  As 
yoM  progress  along  the  banks  of  the  Dells,  you  notice  increasing  accunndations  of  the  well-known  IJig  Sioux  quart/ite,  in  its  dull  red  and 
leaden  colors;  the  banks  grow  more  and  more  precipitous;  the  rocks  are  heaped  strata  upon  strata  in  innneasurable  quantities,  and  take  on 
fantastic  shapes  and  unusual  fonuationsj  the  Dells  deepen  into  a  gorge,  far  down  into  the  bottom  of  which  the  waters,  taking  their  hues 
2S9  ,0 


DELLS  OF  SIOUX   RIVER. 


LOVER'S   LEAP,    DELLS   OF   THE   SIOUX. 


2QO 


AMHRILWS  \V()XDHRI<A\I)S. 


[     '. 


from  till'  ^ky  :ibo\e  tlioiii,  cri>c]i  (ili'ii;;  in  ;iliiu>st  iniiicTci'iilililc  lipplfs.  Ovi'ilicul,  ])ilo  oil  pili',  lumj^s  llu'  ni.nKcd  qiuiitzitc,  sliclvinji;  out 
u\i.r  the  li'inid  blue  biikalli;  in  llii'  siiKs  of  the  idik\'  b.uiks  iiiiiunurabK"  sw.illuus  bnihl  thiir  iii'^ls,  wliile  alio\e  them  shnil)lii'rv  i-linj^s 
and  catli  uiou,  >eeminHly  nnrtuR<l  in  a  M)il  of  a(kimant.  I'li bans  the  hiijlRst  periundicnlar  ]ioint,  from  tbo  sinnmits  of  the  ovi-ihanj^inj,' 
rocks  to  the  waters  below,  is  \ery  nearly  forty-five  feit;  Init  so  preeipitons  is  the  descent,  and  so  jirolesi|nely  wild  tlie  asju'ct,  that  it  is  no 
wonder  the  majoiit)-  of  tiinrists  report  the  height  nnieli  t;reater.  Dcscendiiij;  a  fissnre,  fjazin^j  down  which  descent  seemed  impossible,  the 
writer  ]Mi>bed  off  in  a  rude  canoe  and  paddled  for  some  distance  nnder  the  overshailowin)^  banks.  Here,  indeed,  looking;  tijnvard,  the 
impression  was  intensified,  for  nphea\als  had  torn  these  banks  ujiart  and  <.ji\en  to  them,  with  whimsical  violence,  their  strani^ily  weird 
fornialiuus."     Deyund  Sionx  City  the  conntry  is  nioiiotonnnsly  le\el  nntil,  far  in  Xebraska,  the  road  rushes  into  lilkhorn  Canon  and  passes 

for   a    considerable    distance    iietween    walls 

sometimes  vertical,  but  ne\er  \ ery  liijjll,  and 

wliich    lack  the  s.;randenr  and  colorin;^  that 

characleri/e    those   of   uionulain  streams. 

]'"merj;inj;  from  IClkhorn  Canon,  the  road  nnis 

for  a   loU).j   distance    lhron.s,'h    the    Xiobrara 

N'alley,  thouj^h  iu\er  close   to   that   stream, 

mitil  it  crosses  the   river  at  \'alenline.      The 

soutluiM  line  of  South  Dakota  lies  only  a  few 

miles   u'lrth,  and    from   X'alentine    west    the 

ro.id  approaches  to  within  Iweuty-five  miles 

of  the  Rose-l!nd  and  I'ine  Rid<,'e  Reservations, 

and  ui  Wounded  Knee,  the  scene  of  the  last 

Indian    insurrection,    and   of   I'iue   Ridj^e 

Ai^ency,    where    v^ittini;     Hull     w.is     killed. 

Crnssini;  White  Ri\erat  Dakot.i  Junctiou,  the 

road  turns  due  north,  and  passini^j  out  of  the 

plains  of    Xebra.'-ka    enters  the  mountainous 

conntry  known  as  the  I'd.ick  Hills,  at  Huflalo 

Cap.      On  the  ea^-t  are  tlie  Miunais  Ti  ins, 

or  r.ad  I.auds  of  South  D.ikota,  which  extend 

west  to  the  South   I-'ork  of  Cheyenne  River, 

while  towards  the  west  is  the  rnj^ous,  rou^h 

and  riotous  district  known  as  the  lilack  Hills. 

At  Buffalo  Cap  coinicction  is  made  with 
a  narrow-ijan^je  spur  of  the  main  line  of  road,  which  runs  .southwesterly  a  distance  of  fifteen  miles  and  tcrtiiinates  at  the  Minnckahta,  or 
Hot  >S])rinj;s.  In  makinji;  this  run  we  jiass  through  a  niij^hty  s;ortrc  whose  ajje-swept  and  vertical  walls  clind)  \\\>,  stratum  upon  stratum,  to 
a  heij;lit  of  several  hundred  feel,  and  then  break  into  spear-pointed  peaks,  called  tlic  "  Xecdles."  This  is  l'"all  River  Canon,  noted  for  its 
s])ires,  parti-colorcd  walls,  and  beautiful  waterfalls  that  leap  from  a  hundred  brinks  into  the  arms  of  the  nishinj;  river.  That  this  is  a  land 
of  gold  is  not  better  proved  by  the  fact  that  the  Plack  Hills  were  purchased  of  the  Sion.x  by  the  Government  in  IHTf!,  at  the  cnormons  price 
of  $70, 000, (ion  and  snjiport  of  the  Indians  forsi\en  generations,  than  that  the  output  of  the  several  gold  and  silver  mines  of  the  district 
exceeds  $100, (Mill, 000  ;  verily,  a  richer  laiul  than  Uphir. 


THE   DEVIL'S   NOTCH,  UHl.l.S  OF  THE  SIOUX. 


DANCER   ROCK,  DELLS  OE  THE   SIOUX. 


'M 


2QJ 


AMl'RICA'S  \V()\I)I-;RI,.\\I)S 


I'   , 


'rimiiiij;  l)ai"t  we  rcsnincrl  our  joilrncy  iiniiliw.ml  nwr  tlii.-  Mlkhoru  mail,  :iii<l  iiassid  tlirouH:1i  UKiin-  inik's  of  tla-  most  iiiaj^nifKiMit 
sciiury  to  'n-  loiiiul  aii\  w  lu  iv  on  tlic  Aimricaii  Coiitim  iil.  Tlii.'  iiitiiv  ivj;ion  is  iiiomilain  iiifistiil,  and  to  |HiKtratf  it  li\-  lail  the  roail  is 
coni])iIli(l  to  follow  tlic  almost  inlirmiiiahli'  siimosiiiis  of  ciiiks  and  lnoktii  \alk\s,  witli  tunnels  i\tiy  ft-w  niilis,  and  brid^jis  i]\\'\W  as 
Inijuint.  'l"lndnL;li  l"an-'i'ail  Ciulcli  tlif  roa<l  winds  in  tortuous  \\a\s  that  somitiniis  draw  ;;rotiM|Uc  liynris,  and  in  oui'  ])Iacf  tlii'  road-bed 
i-:  of  the  e\ait  shape-  of  a  horseshoe',  wiiile-  on  hoth  side.--  of  \-.\k  Cre-ek  Canon  tiie'rc  arc  butting  and  pinnacled  walls  that  suygi'St  ruins  of 
L;i.!^anlie-  e-athe-dr.ds,  or  monu- 
ments in  a  gnive-yanl  of  'Pitans. 
l\\er\  where-  we-  turn  the-'e-  is 
the-  e- arxini;  and  hie-ro;^l\  phie- 
writinj;  of  the-  j^lai'ie-r  .mil  the 
xole'.mo  that  in  >oUR-  a,i;e 
wrestle-d  willi  the  rocks  and  left 
llu-m  in  a  conlu.--i'iu  of  whinrsi- 
cal  form-..  I'.irticul.nh  is  this 
true  of  l-'.lk  Cri-e-k  C.inou,  which 
))resents  many  curious  blnlfs 
and  isol.ited  sh.ifts  of  stone-, 
worn  into  mnuoliths  of  odditv' 
1)\-  w  ind  .Old  w  ,ile-r. 

.\fte-r  passing  ricduiont  tlu- 
n->.;iou  is  less  ni.ij^e-d  and  or.ichi- 
ally  f.dls  awa\-  into  a  plain, 
dotted  he-re  .ind  there  with 
biUtes  of  ela\  ,  sonic  of  tlu-m 
re.ichin.ij  a  height  of  lifly  k-it, 
and  in  the  dist.inee  leseniblini; 
l.ir.ue  iiuildin;.;s.  b'ort  .Me.ide- 
and  liear  llutte  arc  on  the  li.^ht 
as  we  make  a  turn  towards  the 
west,  then  run  south,  until  we 
e-nti-r  De-adwodd,  which  lies  at 
the-  Lju.nlcd  and  buuioued  feet 
of  the  Hills.  We  lia\c  >carce-l\ 
been  oiU  of  a  canon  since-  leav- 
ing Hot  .Siirings,  but  at  Dead- 
wood  the  granite  walls  that  h.ive  become  .so  familiar  slope  awa\-  until  they  become  hills  of  slate  and  red  clay,  wliicli  liave  been  denuded  of 
their  vestures  of  ])ine  to  su|)plv  fuel  for  the  reduction  mills.  Through  one  e>f  the  last  rifts  in  the  walls  that  coiiline  llie  track  of  the  railroad 
a  glim]).se  of  Central  Citv  is  obtained,  several  miles  awa\ ,  and  a  few  miimtes  later  we  roll  into  the  greiit  mining  town  that  is  celebrated  for 
its  wealth,  cncrgv,  golden  i)rospccts,  ami  as  being  the  place  where  Wild  Hill  was  kille'<l,  and  Calamity  Jane  broke  the  biggest  faro  bank  in 
the  settieincnt.     Though  IXadwuod  is  oidy  si.\tcen  year.s  old,  few  cities  have  pa.ssed  through  so  many  terrible  vicissitudes.     In  187G  the 


CAHINHT   (idWiH,   Dhl.l.S  OI-    THI-:   SIOH.X    WIVIiK. 


NEEDLE    POINTS,    NEAR   HARNEY'S   PEAK,    Bl  AC.K    HII.I.S. 


'"»i 


Ml' 
III 


r  I 


294 

^oU\  ]mi>|)ictcirs  in  tlif  I  lills  wire  li.irrin'. 
li>-   Iiiiliaiis;  tlii'ii   wlii'ii  tliL'  ilistrii't   was 
puti'luiM-d  ami  aiti\t.'   sittlmiiiit   lnj^aii, 
jjatiilikrs  and  sli.uly  WDnun  llockid  to  llic 
placi',  iMusiikrin);  that  every  hoiitst  jkt- 
Min  was  k');itiniatf  |>ri.'\-,  tuilil  the  vi^;i- 
lanti-s  ri>lc)rf(l  imkT.     Huililini;  was  rapid, 
so  that  three-  years  after  the  miners  staked 
their  tlrsf  chiiins  in  the  Ilill>,  Deadwood 
had  lieeonie  a  ])iaee  of  ,'i,(miii  inhahilants 
and  was  ra|)idly  llouerin;,'   into   a   >;reat 
city.     Then    a   dreadlnl    tire    liroke   out, 
which  ra\aj,'ed  and  swe])t  the  town,  leav- 
ing;   scarcely    a    him.'-e     uninjured,     and 
nearlj-  every  citi/en  honiekss.      Tile  li)ss 
was  estimated  at    $l,."i(Hi,(i(i(),  ),ui  in  its 
elfects  the  h)ss  was   prdli.iblv  twice  tllat 
amount.     Ii\it  wi'.Ii  that  couraj;eousener),'y 
which  ch.iracterii^s  western  settkMuents, 
the  peopk'  went  to  work  to  reliuild  before 
even  the  emliers  had  turned  to  ashes,  and 
by    lx.s:i,   Deadwood  was    a  second    time 
>ho\vin;;;   a   nietrcipoiitan    hud.      She   had 
emerj,'e<l   from  the  crucihk-,  hut   fate  Ii.id 
resol\e<l  that  she  shouhl  l)e  subjected  to 
auotherordeal.    .\ccor(linj;ly,  the  eituienls 
},Mthered  their  forces  all  around  upon  the 
mountains  .mil  in  the  v'ulches.     I'or  weeks 
un])recedeuted     snow  -  storms   houdiarded 
the  couutrv  and  covered  it  t       M  exlraordi- 
narydeplh.     Theuthewini.    .sof  heaven 
were  opened  and  the  rain  de.-.ccnde<l.    I  )ay 
and  iiis,dit  a  terrific  down-pour  continued, 
followed  directly  hv  a  Ikiod    that  struck 
the  town   from  every  dinctiipu,  and  with 
irresistible    nii;,dit    washed    nearlv    every 
buildinjr  from  its  foundation,  kav  iujj  even 
small  oi)i)ortunity  for  the  unliappv  jieople 
to  cscajjc  to  the  hills.     Hut   liiuu-h  the 
town    was  twice    destroyed,   the    citizens 


AMHRICA'.S  WDXDKRI-.WDS. 


J 

s 

■J 


'VI 


nil 


'J 


TTT^^^mmm 


290 


ami:ric.\'S  woxdhrlaxds. 


•  ! 


lost  none  of  '.lioir  ]iluck,  and  iKt'orc  tlic  itirI  w.itiis  \vii\  l'ull\-  assiia.iicd  iIk-v  u-siinicd  tliu  work  of  biiildiiijj;  aij;aiii  on  tlic  same  twice  stricken 
site,  and  lia\c  so  conliiukd  nntil  Ili-adwood  is  fonifK'd  against  c.ilaniily  and  is  niovini;  on  at  tlic  head  of  the  procession,  with  colors  Hying 
and  drums  hcalin.if,  the  capit.il  city  of  a  capital  comilrv. 

Tlurc  arc  many  interesting  points  vithin  a  lew  miles  of  Dcadwood;  lor  aside  from  the  nigged  character  of  the  scenery,  in  the  near  vicinity 
arc  several  of  the  largest  wealtll- 
[iroducing  mines  in  the  world. 
The  Iri].'  to  IJald  Momilain  iiver 
the  I'reniont,  hilkhorn  and  Mis- 
souri N'aliey  narrow-gange  Road 
is  one  tilled  with  pleasure  and 
snqirisc.  The  way  is  almost 
incomparalily  winding,  and  ex- 
hibits remarkalile  examples  of 
engineering  skill  and  enorinons 
ill  vestment.  In  several  jjlaces 
the  grade  is  four  iinndred  and 
thirty  feet  to  the  mile,  while 
the  curves  arc  said  to  lie  oi  one 
luindrcd  and  lilt\'  feet  radius. 
Passing  up  ~uch  gi.ules  and 
around  such  sli.ii  p  tui  u>,  it  is  not 
sosnr]iri>ingthatlhelr,iiu>hou'd 
in  one  minute  he  running  along 
lofiy  1)1  Ik>,  a]i]).ireull\'  in 
mid-air,  o\er(li//\  trestles,  .md 
in  the  next  ft  ,v  nionieuls  lie 
scurrying  tliniugh  a  \alle;.  so 
deep  that  sunlight  raiely  e\er 
\  isits  it.  Xorlh  of  li.iid  .\Iouul- 
aiu,  and  re.iched  hy  a  st.i^e- 
li:'.e,  .ucCrow  I'e.ik,  Rouud-'lN'p 
.Mount, liii,  ai'd  the  town  of 
.Spe.irush.  This  lattei  ]ilace  i> 
loc.iled  on  a  creek  of  the  same 
ii.ime  that  .goes  tunililing 
through  a  deep  canon  with  ver- 
tical   .serr.ited  \\  ill-    and  di\er-        ^'"''^^'   '  ''     '"'-^'''    '"    '  "''    '^ '     ^    I '1^ '  •'^N'  l-   "I'    l<-)l<lVs|\   .>,\||.|,s   PKOM   THH    KOAI),   IN   KAN-TAIL  f.UI.CH. 

sified  by  ro.iriug  (.ise.nK-  and  f.ir-U.ipiug  waterfalls.  Returning  t'.  Dcadwood,  we  took  the  Hnrlingtoi.  and  Mi.s.souri  River  Railroad  south 
through  auollur  long  streuli  of  turbulent  scenery,  (.f  rushing  cm  ks,  darksome  gorges,  under  the  shailows  of  h^fty  nioniitains,  and  bv  curious 
formation-.      C\i-ter  I'eak  i-  only  two  or  three  miles  east  of  the  ro.id,  and  it  is  the  center  of  a  riotous  region  of  broken  stone,  each  one  a  vcrv 


,,-"'  < 


I  r 


* 


'I 


II  I,. 


•i:' 


29S 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDKKLAXDS. 


mountain  of  itself.  Ik'low,  we  strike  Sjiriny;  Creek,  an'l  <;o  bowlinj;  aloni;  tlie  valley  cut  out  of  tlie  lulls  by  tli:'.t  stream, 
breaks  into  view,  fi\e  miles  to  the  east,  ami  lifts  its  ]iinev  crest  into  the  ;v,iire  depths  S,(i(lil  fiit.  lIereabo\it  are 
canons,  creeks,  and  hn,L;e  bowlders  da>Iied  down   from   frost-ri\eu   peaks,  for  besides  );old  and  silver,  the  region  is  said 

that  iieculiarh'  elu,  ive  mineral 

which,  tluin,i;h  often  fonnd, 
seems  to  always  demateriali/e 
after  the  campaign  is  over;  an 
though  millions  have  lieen  spent 
in  developing  the  tin  mines 
near  Ilarney,  the  product  has 
Hot  \et  Jiaid  the  expense  of 
mining.  Three  miles  .south  of 
the  ]ie,ik  are  the  Xeedles,  bold- 
jlUting  pinnacles  of  s.iudsloue 
that  st.ind  high  above  the  bed 
of  Sipiaw  Creek  ancl  point  their 
fingers  tow.ird  the  .-ky.  Uuck- 
lli'vn  .Mount. lin  st.inds  very 
near  the  west  side  of  the  road, 
and  close  to  its  b.ise  reposes  the 
town  of  Cn~ttr,  the  center  of  a 
broken  district  e.i'iK<l  Custer 
Park,  f.nuiius  for  its  scenery  of 
river,  tmntiltuary  and  distorted 
rucks  over  which  a  weasel  can 
liardh-  m.ikc  it.--  w.iy.  .\  little 
further  south  we  enter  Red 
Canon  Creek,  where  the  s.uue 
general  cli.iracter  of  eroded  and 
disrupted  rocks  cnutinues,  with 
occasional  cNliibitinns  ni  odility 
exceeding  thcjse  pre\i'>u>l\  sieu 
ill  the  Hills.  I'Mdently  sonie 
terrific  force  has  been  at  wurk 
in  this  uncanny  region,  for  here 
and  there  our  winder  is  excited 
by  extraonliuary  instaiu'es  of 
displacement.  lieeeher  Rocks 
are  comicalities  done  in  stuue, 
but  Wedge  Rock  must  wear  the 


until  Harney's 
not  only  walei 
to  abound  will 


Peak 

tails, 
1  tin. 


nil.  iiDRsiisiioi;  IN  iiK  (.I'i;i;k  canon. 


.A"'. 


:^p'V..l8r- 


0:: 
ui 
H 
t/) 

o 
u 

O 

3i 


nil 


r 


I 


Ml. 

,.  t 

I.    I 


3CX1 

garland  as  the  most  astoiiiKlintj 
example  of  natural  tumult  in 
this  won(U'r-re,i;iiiu,  ami  which 
can  be  better  lui'lerstood  b>-  the 
accciuipauyiuy;  illustration,  than 
explained  liv  the  bare  use  of 
words. 

Ihit  the  couutrx'  is  not  only 
ruj^i;ed  ami  mountain-spurred; 
it  iiiissessis  curiosities  even 
;.;reater  iK-uealh  the  surface  than 
those  which  di\er-if\'  the  sun- 
kissed  laudscajie  o\er  which 
we  ha\e  just  Jiassed.  On  I'!lk 
Cretk,  and  entered  from  the 
canim  wall,  is  Kiith's  Cr\slal 
Ca\e,  a  colossal  rent  in  the 
mountain  bowels,  with  ])assa,i;es 
fifleen  miles  in  len.i;th.  It  is 
be.uuifully  chambered,  fniui 
which  depend  the  uidst  ex(|ui>ite 
crystallizations  in  the  form  of 
slal.ictites  and  stalagmites  that 
reflect  the  torchlii;ht  in  glorious 
colors.  d.incin<>'  from  column  of 
on\\  to  pools  of  pellucid  water. 

lint  a  more  remarkable  cave 
than  Keith's  is  found  a  little 
way  we^t  (if  Cu-ter,  and  lwel\e 
miles  north  of  Hot  .Springs. 
This  marvelous  natural  excava- 
tion is  ramified  b\-  many  pas- 
.saj,'es  which  ha\e  been  explori-d 
foradistauc  of  sixty-live  mi'es, 
and  the  end  is  not  \et.  ( >u 
account  of  the  ])eculiar  res|)ir.i- 
tioii  of  the  cave,  the  air  at  one 
timernshiufjin  with  <,'reat  \eloc- 
itv  and  ai,Min  beiuL;  expelled 
with    eijual    force,    it    is    called 


AMERICA'S  WON' DKRLAXDS. 


BBECIICR   KOCKS,   \ll\U  (.I'STIiR   CITY. 


A  CHAMBHR  IN  CRYSTAL  CAVE,  BLACK   Mil. IS. 


lit 


r  < 


'   I 


302 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDERLAXDS. 


the  Wind  Cave;  and  ni)  better  name  ean  l>e  liestowed,  for  the  canse  of  this  inrnshinj;  and  rct;iir};itation  of  air  seems  to  he  beyond  ascertain- 
ment. Like  its  more  northerly  cousin,  Wind  Cave  b-  chambered  and  adorned  with  beautiful  crystals  that  sliinnner  under  the  Khuices  of 
the  torch  and  are  set  aflame  with  color,  with  here  and  there  such  j^racefnl  formations  as  to  sngjjest  studios  of  monster  .icnlptors. 

Contiiinin<;  our  way  south- 
ward to  the  junction  of  the 
Wyoniiuij  Division,  in  Fall 
River  eo\inty,  we  turned  north 
OH  that  small  branch  whose 
tem|)i)rary  terminus  is  Merino, 
at  which  point  a  team  was  en- 
jja<;ed  to  take  us  to  what  is  truly 
cue  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the 
world.  In  our  trip  of  several 
thou;.and  miles  throus;h  the 
niouutaiuous  re.tjions  of  the 
great  West,  we  had  seen  and 
photojjraphed  many  extraordi- 
nary and  startliuy;  prodi<;ies  of 
nature,  so  that  all  sentiment  of 
awe,  surprise  and  admiration 
had  been  aroused,  but  we  were 
now  to  be  confronted  by  a  mira- 
cle in  stone  that  confounded 
and  inin,i;led  all  feelins,'S  of 
wondcrnunt  and  fascination 
into  stupefaction  of  bewildered 
senses. 

We  had  to  travel  about 
twcntv-fivc  miles  across  a  fairly 
level  stretch  01  country  before 
reachiu};  the  Helle  I'lHirche 
River,  a  uuiin  branch  of  the 
CIle\ennc,  on  the  we^t  bank  of 
which  is  located  this  marxelou.s 
monument  of  the  ages,  which 
for  its  astounding  size  and  un- 
accountable formation  is  called 
the  Devil's  Tower.  Among  the 
Sioux  Indians,  who  have  always 
req:arded  it    with   superstitious  THE  CHANCEL.  CRYSTAL  CAVE,  BLACK  HILLS. 


^/^k 


5^^*^ 


'!'j 


M 


-'  !l, 


III 


I  I  ! 


' 


1 1 


h 


304 


amhrica's  \\u\i;i-:k lands. 


dread,  it  is  known  as  tlie  Mati'i.'s  'IVpi'c,  sii^nifxinsj  tlio  Rear's  Kodi^e,  and  was  bv  the  in  snpposed  to  1h'  tin.-  liannt  of  a  wcrc-aninial,  wlin 
possissfd  the  powi-rof  Ixconiing  a  bear  or  man  at  pkasnte.  The  country  within  a  radius  of  fifty  miles  is  slightly  broken  by  high  table-lauds, 
l)nt  there  is  nothinj,' toiiidieate 
any  special  s]iasni  of  nature  by 
which  SI)  >;reat  a  freak  iiiij;ht 
have  been  lornied;  \ct  out  of 
lliisundiilatin,i;(.  \panseof  land- 
scape suddenly  rises  a  stupend- 
ous obelisk  of  vilrilied  --tiiue,  to 
the  auiaziiii;  hei;.^ht  of  eii^lit 
liundred  feet.  The  liase,  which 
incisures  ;>-!>  feet  at  its  louj^est 
(lianieter,  is  |(M)  feet  abo\e  the 
river-beil,  which  in  turn  is  ."lOO 
fi'et  .ibo\"e>e,l  lew!.  Thusineas- 
ured,  the  peak  of  this  aiu.izins^ 
tower  is  1,70(1  feel  above  the 
sea;  no  surprise  iherefnie  that 
it  is  \i-ible  for  a  di-l.ince  of 
fori)-  uiiks.  I'.ut  the  wonder 
which  such  a  colf)ss.d  shaft 
naturally  excites  is  iinniensely 
incuased  by  tlie  fact  that  the 
Devil's  Tower  is  a  coinpositioii 
of  Inline  crystals  of  basalt,  or 
volcanic  rock,  which  lie  in  col- 
uinns  sou'.e  three  feel  in  diame- 
ter, and  continue  unbroken  from 
the  base  to  the  ]ieak,  yixiui;  to 
it  a  tlbrciu-;  appear.mce.  The 
walls  are  alniost  vertical,  willi 
a  slijj;litly  vertical  slope,  to  jjive 
it  a  more  ^'racefiil  contour,  and 
thoui^h  there  are  occasional  rifts 
in  the  sides,  no  liumaii  beinjj, 
however  skilful  as  a  spire- 
climber,  can  ever  accomplish 
it.s  ascent. 

The  eiupiiry  is  irresistib 


THK   t)EVII  'S  CHAIR,  ST.  CROIX   RIVER. 


"What  wnndrous  force  created  tills  petrified  monster  of  the  Wyoming  table-lands?"     One  plausible 
answer  may  be  built  upon  the  theory  that  here,  at  one  time,  was  the  bed  of  an  ocean,  a  supposition  supported  by  such  evidences  as  the 


I 

X 


s 

36 

o 


o 


> 
G 

UJ 

X 


'   I 


III 


,.,. 


-■■^^■^^BW 


3"o 


AMERICA'S  WONDKRI.ANDS. 


Ml, 
.      I 
i>.  I 

■r  I 
''  t 


fmdiiij;  of  sf.i-slu'lls  and  hoiu's  of  extinct  pcn-creatinvs  all  about  ovit  tlio  uroiind,  and  di-ipiy  I'nilH'ddtd  in  the  earth  tliroiijrliont  the  seilion. 
Wlu  n  till-  waliis  iieidid,  tliis  im  i|nalil\ ,  w  liiili  nii,i;lil  lia\e  i\isti(l  as  an  i'-land,  was  kit  as  the  product  of  Milcauic  action.  Hut  a  yet  more 
reasonable  cause  may  be  found  in  the  supposition  that  aloui;  the  Helle  l"o\irche  was  the  center  of  intense  volcanic  energy  sometime  diirinj; 
the  very  remote  jiast,  duriuy;  which  jiiriod  tlic  spot  occupied  by  the  tower  was  a  volcano-vent  out  of  which  poured  la\a  in  such  a  slow  and 
steady  flow  that  it  deposited  in  basaltic  columnar  crystals  at  the  apex.  Thus  ^whially  it  jj^ew  in  si/.e  and  height,  like  many  of  tile 
forni.itious  in  Yellowstone  I'.irk,  until  the  Volciuo  Ii.id  expended  its  force  and  lift  t!ii<  vast  moinnuent  as  an  e\erlastiin;  exidence  of  its 
persistence  throuj^h  centuries  of  acli\it>.  But  howexer  it  w.is  formed,  the  Devil's  Tower  takes  a  place  in  the  first  list  of  the  world's 
_i;re,itesl  n.itur.il  wonders,  .lud  it  deserves  to  be 
nnich  better  known  than  it  is. 

Rcturuiny;  from  a  lonjj;  and  very  wear\  iu^ 
ride  to  the  Tower,  we  ayaiu  took  the  r.\n]iu),>- 
tou  Ro.id,  relr.iciuj;  nnich  of  the  w.iv  we  h.iil 
ci'iue,  and  procee<le(l  to  Cr.iwlord,  Nelir.isk.i, 
in  order  to  \iew  twi)  famous  curiosities  known 
.IS  Crow  liutte  au<l  Sij^ual  Rock,  which  are 
nearth.it  town.  I'ort  Robiusou  jiost  and  niili- 
t  iry  reser\ation  are  a  mile  west,  on  White 
River,  and  the  country  is  pictures(|Ue  with 
buttes,  whidl  rise  o\it  of  the  prairie  lauiis  in 
siuj^ular  ini])ertinence  and  nuseemliuess,  while 
considerable  bluffs  contine  the  river.  The  ter- 
ritory was  for  m.iiiy  yiars  the  scene  of  bitter 
strifes  between  the  .Si..ux  and  Crow  Indians, 
who  redi'eued  nearly  every  acre  of  the  ;iri)un(l 
with  their  blood,  .md  left  reuiembr.inces  of  their 
occupancy  and  incidents  of  their  adventures 
in  names  which  they  >;ave  to  a  hundred  ]ioiuts 
in  the  near  vicinity  of  Crawfoid.  .South  of  llie 
town,  about  five  miles,  a  conspicuous  object  in 
a  wiile  rau^e  is  Cr  iw  liutte,  a  tit.mic  elev.i- 
tionof  stone,  nearl\  two  hundred  feet  in  heij,'lit 
.iud  .several  hundred  yards  in  circinnference, 
with  vertical  walls  on  all  sides  except  one,  in 


TEA-TARI.K   ROCK,  WISCONSIN   RIVER. 


w  Iiieh  there  is  a  wiudiii,t;-way  b\-  which  a  h<irseman  may  ride  to  the  top.  The  lej^end  is  told  that  on  one  occasion  a  ])arty  of  Crow  Indians 
were  so  sava<,'ely  ])ursued  by  their  old  enemies  that  they  took  refu);e  on  the  top  of  Crow  liutte,  where,  thouj,di  much  fewer  in  nnnd)er,  they 
so  valorously  defended  the  narrow  roadway  that  the  Sioux  were  driven  back  each  time  they  attempted  to  gain  the  summit.  Being  unable 
to  dislodge  them,  the  Sioux  resolved  to  besiege  the  Crows  until  starvation  comi)elled  them  to  surrender.  For  several  days  and  nights  the 
siege  continued,  until  at  length  hunger  drove  the  Crows  to  a  desperate  expedient.  Watching  their  time,  wdicn  the  night  was  darkest,  thev 
killed  some  of  t!u  ir  ponies,  and  converting  their  hides  into  lariats,  lowered  one  after  another  of  their  number  to  the  ground  below  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  butle,  until  all  but  one  old  Indian  had  been  safely  delivered,  who  was  left  a  while  to  keep  the  camp-fire  buniinjj.     On 


nil 


I  H 


n^ 


I 


hill 


till-  fi)lli)\viii^(  (l,i\  till'  (ilil  111.111  iMiiii-  down 
•mil  .siirrnKUri'd  liiiiisilf  to  tlii'  Siou\,  and 
nlati'd  tollii'in  tin-  woiidirfiil  humus  li;,'  wliidi 
liis  coitir.idcs  had  tsiapid.  IiisUadof  killiii); 
liiin,  as  niij^lit  haw  htiii  i-vpii'tid,  oil  this 
oiR'  (unasinii  ihi-  Sioux  ina^^iiailiiuously  ^avc 
him  liis  liliiTty  as  a  ri'foiiijuiisi.'  for  the  loyalty 
and  liravi'iv  wliiih  hi'  had  i-\liiliitiil. 

Sij^nal  Kock  is  oiiK  a  short  dislaiici"  from 
Crow  Untti.',  and  is  a  similar  formation,  thoiij;li 
not  nearly  so  lar^c;  and  while  the  .summit  is 
iK.irly  as  lii),'h,  it  is  prakt'd  and  not  dilTicult 
to  nach.  It  dcrivis  its  ii.iinc  from  the  use 
to  which  it  was  fri'i)iRiuly  i)nt  hy  the  linlians 
in  jirevioiis  years,  who  liy  means  of  fire  at 
iiiKht  were  able  to  signal  to  their  friends  as 


AMKRIC.XS  WONUHRLAXIKS. 


f.ir  away  as  the  Had  I,.inds  of  South  Dakota. 

The  iMemoiit,  ICIkhorn  and  Missouri 
River  Road  crosses  the  Itiirliii);toii  at  Craw- 
ford, and  our  woik  of  pliotoj^i.iphiiij;  the 
lilack  Hills  district  lieiii),'  completed,  the  trip 
hack  to  St.  I'anl  was  made,  and  a  junction 
with  otiier  incmliers  of  the  e\j)editioii  wa.H 
formed,  whose  artist  l.ihors  h.i\e  already  been 
described. 

The  twin  cities  of  St.  I'anl  and  Minne- 
a])olis  represent  the  intrusion  of  civili^tatiun 
•M  "I"'"  '''^'  I'rinuv.ii  lands  of  romance,  and  thus 
while  we  admire  the  imposinjr  wealth  and 
architectural  l)eaiities  of  these  ureal  metrojioli, 
we  cannot  avoid  a  feeling  of  .semi-rej,'ret  that 
they  have  j;rown  at  the  e.vpense  and  sacrifice 


SQUAW'S 


THE  .\  \l<l*OVVS,  DKLI.S  of  the  \VISC:ONSIN. 

of  some  of  the  most  charminji;  natural  wonders 
that  first  attracted  ])ublic  interest  to  the  vast 
Northwest.  The  head  of  navij;ation  on  the 
Mississip|)i  is  unalterably  fixed  at  St.  I'a-,', 
for  above  that  point  the  river  is  a  brawli'ijj 
.stream,  flowiii);f  over  lcd);;es  and  rusli'nK 
throni,di  contracted  passaj,'es  lined  with  bluffs. 
At  Minneapolis  are  the  I'alls  of  St.  Anthony, 
but  no  lon),'er  do  these  present  the  furious 
aspect  which  once  characterized  thetn,  for 
the  wild  riot  of  turbulent  waters  that  formerly 
went  dashinjf  over  a  hi<j;h  brink  with  a  roar 
tliat  made  the  .shore  to  tremble,  have  been 
harnessed,  and  are  now  driven  over  slopinjj 
tables  .so  as  to  glide  .softly  into  the  bed  below. 
CHA.WBEF?,  DELIS  ..f  tho  WISCONSIN.    The  channel,  loo,  has  been  cut  and  buttressed 


CASil.E  TOWER,  DbLLS  of  the  WISCONSIN. 


m 


ir 


CR(J\V    BUTTE   AND  SKJNAI,   ROCK,   nWVHS  COUNTY.   NEBRASKA. 


f 


II  l< 


\^      I     I 


with  masonry,  so  tliat  the  stioiij;  ri^ht  arm 
ol  the  falls  is  -'laili.'  a  servant  of  connniTce  in 
sn|iplyini;  >..:■  mutivf-power  for  many  im- 
mense flonriny;  mills. 

The  sii;lit-seer  turns  with  feelings  of  dis- 
appointment at  the  artilieial  appearance  of 
St.  Anthony's  I'alls,  and  seekinj.;  the  wonders 
of  nature  tinadorned,  drives  over  to  Minni- 
haha's  sylva;i  .solitudes,  bnt  upon  which, 
alas,  the  encroachments  of  sacrilegious  im- 
provements characteristic  of  city  extension 
are  now  ajiparent.  Ihit  the  voice  of  its  falling 
waters  is  still  attuned  to  the  rh\  thm  oi  the 
poet  that  .sang  it  into  fame.  Down  thnnigh 
flower-sprinkled  meadows  purls  and  gambols 


A.MKRICA'S  WONDKRLAX DS. 


a  silver  .St  ream,  slaking  the  thirst  of  the  linnet 
and  bathing  the  feet  of  the  dove,  until  weary 
of  the  sunshine  it  spreads  itself  over  a  ledge 
like  a  veil  of  gossamer  and  drops  into  the 
cool  shades  that  welcome  its  embraces.  The 
Kails  of  Minnehaha  are  an  example  of  that 
coy  and  qniet  comportment  which  sometimes 
blushes  into  notoriety,  for  no  one  with  le.ss 
imagery  than  a  poet  would  discover  the  sub- 
limity of  its  aspect,  or  the  artinlness  of  its 
graces.  It  is  to  Longfellow,  therefore,  that  we 
owe  the  immort.dity  with  which  these  laugh- 
ing waters  are  invested,  and  the  imperishable 
fame  of  Hiawatha,  who,  while  in  quest  of 
better  weapons 


SKYLKIHT  CAVE,  DELLS  OF  THE  WISCONSIN. 


CLII  r  NKAK  MOUTH  OF  WITCHES'  OULCH. 

'■  I'aust'd  to  piirclliist'  he.ids  of  arrows 
Of  tile  aiu'ient  .Arrow  itiakt'r, 
III  llle  latiil  of  tilt'  Dacotalls, 
WluTL"  llu"  I'alls  of  Mititichalm 
I'hi^li  anil  >;U'ain  ainon^  the  oak-trees, 
I.atl^h  anil  leap  into  llie  valley. 
There  the  ancient  .\rro\v-tiiaker 
Slaile  his  arrow-heatls  of  s.tndstone, 
Arrow-lu'ads  of  ehaleeihiny. 
Arrow-heails  of  flint  and  jasper, 
Stnootheil  ami  sllarpened  at  the  etl^cs, 
Hard  and  polished,  keen  and  eustlv." 

But  no  one  with  a  love  for  the  picturesque 
can  .lose  an  e\e  to  the  fairy-like  beauty 
of  Minnehaha,  as  it  ])onrs  over  a  crescent 
brink  in  a  sheet  of  gauze,  so  thin  that  the 
wall  behind  loses  little  of  its  distinctness,  and 
llie  rocks  upon  which  the  water  breaks  aie 


HAWK'S  BILL,  DBLLS  OF  THE  WISCONSIN. 


•  '»; 


tir 


TAILS  OF   ST.    ANTHONY. 


Il  ll., 


312 

refreshed  like  the  head  of  a  babe  at  its  chris- 
tening, A  kice  curtain  is  not  more  delicate, 
and  thistle-down  is  scarcely  more  dainty,  as 
the  illustration  shows. 

The  erodini;  finj;ers  of  percolating;  waters 
have  worn  the  soft  rock  behiud  the  fall,  until 
a  shelf  is  formed  that  extends  three  or  four 
feet  beyond  the  face  of  the  wall.  Visitors 
ina\'  therefore  i)ass  under  this  shelf  and  look 
outward  throuj;h  the  trausjiarent  liiinid  sluet 
as  it  pours  in  a  broad  but  tenuous  stream,  not 
unlike  valencieuue  drajiery  .t;ently  agitated. 
A  ])athway  leads  from  the  falls  down  a  j^raee- 
flilly  embowered  ravine  to  spots  so  temptingly 
secluded  that  maidens  never  wander  there 
that  love  does  not  follow;  and  so  many  darts 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


h.ive  been  hurled  at  wooing  .swains  in  this 
romantic  dell  that  I  am  almo.st  persuaded  to 
believe  that  it  was  not  Hiawatha,  but  Cupid, 
who  came  here  to  get  his  arrows. 

Hut  if  Minnehaha  is  beautiful  in  spring- 
time, it  is  sublime  when  folded  in  the  crystal 
arms  of  winter,  a  frozen  cascade  of  puffs  and 
snow-balls,  hiberiuUing  after  its  season  of 
sporting,  awaiting  the  return  of  bird,  flower 
and  lover.  Not  far  away  are  lakes  of  van  )ns 
sizes,  like  Minnelonka  and  Great  Bear,  to 
which  tiionsands  resort  when  sultry  winds 
blow  and  the  blazing  sun  of  summer-time 
drives  sweltering  humanity  to  .such  cool 
retreats.  Kit  the  beauties  of  this  northern 
region  are  not  exhausted  by  lake  and  water- 


THK    lAIKIEs'   RETREAT,   Dells  uf  tlie  WWonvn. 


WITCHES'  GULCH,  Dells  of  the  Wisconsin. 

fall,  which  though  charming,  cannot  compete 
for  interest  with  .some  of  the  natural  marvels 
that  exist  in  the  neighbor , State  of  Wisconsin. 

,St.  Croix  Ki\er  separates  the  two  .States 
and  is  a  stn-am  that  exhibits  both  curious 
and  exquisite  formations  along  many  miles  of 
its  banks,  and  but  for  the  vast  logging  inter- 
ests which  it  so  admirably  .serves,  penetrating 
as  it  does  the  great  ])ine  region,  the  river 
would  be  fdled  with  pleasure-crafts  throughout 
the  sunnner,  carrying  tourists  in  and  out 
among  its  dells  aiul  fairy-like  grottos. 

The  bluffs  of  sandstone  are  a  .source  of 
unending  surprise,  rising  out  of  the  water  .so 
nearly  ])erpendicular  that  tiiey  defy  all  effort 
to  .scale  them,  and   present  a   front  like  the 


WHIRLPOOL  CHAMBER,   Dflls  of  the  Wisconsin. 


'^'1 


m  [ 
nil  i 


^l 


I       .  th 

IE 


MINNEHAHA  TALIS   IN  SUMMKR. 


RC;„ANCE  CI. IFF,   DELIS  OF  THE  ST.   CROIX   RIVER. 


3Ptr  JT^ 


314 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


Ik 


I  I, 


walled  cities  of  ancient  times.  Nature  has  not  left  tliem 
undisturbed,  either,  for  their  tousslcd  brinks  and  seared  sides 
show  the  finger-marks  of  frost  iti  deep  fis.-...res  and  eccentric 
cleavages,  while  here  and  there  fantastic  images  of  stone 
stand  like  grim  sentinels  on  commanding  ledges,  keeping 
unwearied  watch  upon  the  industrious  river.  Most  curious 
of  these  erratic  formations  is  the  Devil's  Chair,  which  the 
Chippewa  Indians  verily  believe  was  one  time  the  resting- 
place  of  his  sable  majesty,  probably  when  he  went  fishing. 
Anyhow,  the  rock  bears  the  autographs  of  many  adventurous 
persons  who  have  been  there  to  see.  The  fishing  certainly 
was  very  good  in  this  spot  before  Wisconsin  lunibermen 
filled  the  stream  so  full  of  pine-logs  that  not  even  the  devil 
himself  could  keep  his  line  from  fouling. 

East  of  the  St.  Croix  is  Chippewa  River,  flowing  in  the 
same  general  direction,  but  aside  from  being  a  pretty  stream 
it  has  nothing  to  specially  interest  tourists,  for  the  banks 
gently  shelve,  and  where  stone  apjiears  it  is  in  thin  layers, 
and  the  shore-line  never  rises  to  the  dignity  of  bluffs.  Rut 
the  Chipjiewa  Indians,  thou  jli  now  small  in  nnndjers,  still 
retain  their  ancient  homes  in  the  vicinity  of  the  stream, 
which,  because  of  its  shallowness,  is  not  used  as  extensively 
as  the  St.  Croix  for  shooting  logs  to  the  Mississippi.  Though 
surrounded  by  a  \igorous  civilization,  these  Indians,  if  we 
except  their  clothing,  exhibit  little  change  from  their  origi- 
nal customs  and  numuers  of  living,  subsisting  by  hunting, 
fishing,  and  gathering  berries  for  the  neighboring  markets. 
They  still  niake  birch-bark  canoes,  like  their  forefathers,  and 
in  a  way,  too,  that  white  men  do  not  appear  to  be  able  to 
imitate.  Specimens  of  their  deft  work  are  on  sale  in  all  the 
towns  of  Wisconsin,  frjni  which  .source  they  derive  no 
little  profit. 

In  the  eastern  part  of  the  State,  in  Howano  county,  lives 
a  small  tribe  called  the  Meuoniiues,  who  are  in  what  may  be 
called  the  transition  jieriod,  for  their  manner  of  living  is  a 
composite  of  modern  ways  and  ancient  usage  and  belief. 
Some  ol  the  Meuoniiues  apjiear  to  be  thoroughly  civilized,  at 
least  .so  far  as  outward  indications  show,  while  th'^  jiatriarchs 
of  the  tribe  remain  steadfast  in  the  faith  of  i.ieir  fathers. 
They  have  lost  none  of  their  confidence  in  the  Medicine  Man, 


SIGNAL  ROCK,  NEAR  CAMP  DOUGLAS,  WISCONSIN. 


v» 


.  r, 


m' 


ir 


■'IS 


MINNEHAHA  FALLS  IN  WINIHR. 


•  ■  I 

ll. 
I 


310 

whose  counsel  in  political  affairs  is  as  impor- 
tant as  their  inlluence  over  diseases  of  the 
body  is  pronounced. 

A  Medicine  Man  being  questioned  as  to 
how  the  power  which  he  claimed  was  con- 
ferred, answered  tlnis: 

"My  Ik.irl  told  me  that  I  should  be  a 
Medicine  Man,  and  I  went  out  upon  a  ni<iuntain 
and  lasted  and  pnned  for  two  da\s,  awailinj;; 
a  siyii  from  the  (ireal  Spirit.  .\t  the  end  of 
the  second  (l,i\-,  as  the  sun  was  s^oinjj;  to 
slec]i,  I  s.iw  a  threat  liijht  which  blinded  my 
eves,  and  he.ird  ,1  noise  as  of  the  rushini^-  of 
ii-.any  w.uers.  I  looked  around  a!.;aiii,  and 
about  me  were  fmir  animals — a  black-tailed 
deer,  a  w  hite-tailed  deer,  a  wolf  and  a  bulfalu. 


AMERICA'S  WOXUKRLAXUS. 


They  all  s]ioke  the  speech  of  men.  They 
said  that  the  (Ireat  Sjiirit  had  heard  my 
prayer  and  had  .sent  them  to  me.  The  ani- 
mals then  took  me  over  the  prairies  and  told 
me  what  plants  were  linrtfnl  and  what  were 
good  for  my  peojile.  They  told  me  what 
diseases  of  men  the  jjood  herb  woidd  cure, 
and  then  they  vanished  as  suddenly  as  the\' 
came.  I  returned  to  my  people,  told  the 
chiefs  what  I  had  seen,  was  made  and  have 
since  been  a  Medicine  .Man." 

But  the  transition  from  sava}j;e  supersti- 
tion to  civilized  modes  is  apparent  among  tile 
.Menoniines,  not  onl\-  in  the  adoption  o(  mod- 
ern ehithing,  houses,  jiousehold  nte.;sils  ar.d 
Cliri.slian  ideas;  it  appears  als'i  in  the  cliange 


IIOKM;T'S   NHSr.   DHl.ls  I  il 


W  l^(.()\SIN. 


CI.EOPATRA-S  NEEDI.H,  DEVIL'S  LAKE. 

of  their  superstitions.  They  still  believe  in 
Medicine  Men,  and  indulge  in  what  is  known 
as  the  Medicine  Dance,  Init  oidy  at  the  time 
of  the  initiation  of  new  candidates  for  such 
honors;  and  their  doctors  must  now  be  the 
])ossessors  of  more  or  less  medical  knowledge, 
and  be  able  to  read  and  write.  The  ceremony 
is  too  Unig  and  tedious  to  describe,  but  the 
most  superficial  oljserver  cannot  fail  to  detect 
through  it  all  the  inthience  of  contact  with 
civilization. 

The  Ojibwavs  are  another  remnant  of  tlie 
great  Indi.in  tribes  of  the  Northwest,  who.se 
liiiUies  are  in  I'olk  countv,  in  the  \icii;ityof 
Halsam  Lake,  a  pretty  sheet  of  water  in  a 
wild  district,  where  fishing  is  good  and  g.anie 


(.1  Ll  I    I'Or.K.   DEVIL'S   LAKE.  WISCONSIN. 


\ 


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ir 


FOOT  AND  WAGON  BRIDGE  OVBR  THE  ST.  CROIX  RIVER.  WISCONSIN. 


Y 


I 


ii. 


CHIPPEWA  INDIANS,  OK  WISCONSIN,  BUII.UINt;  A  BIHCH-HAWK  c:aNOB. 


A  CANDIDATE   FOR  MEDICINE   MAN   BEFORE   A  COUNCIL  OF   MENOMINE   INDIANS. 


nil  1'! 

1^ 

ir  "i. 

Hi     ' 

'    {•■ 


■M 


^mmnmmmmmm 


IIIm 


320  AMERICA'S  WOXDKRLANDS. 

still  fairly  abiind.iiit.  One  ]icciiliarity  of  these  Indians  is  the  saeredness  witli  whieh  they  regard  their  dead,  and  the  care  tliey  take  to 
l)reserve  the  bodies  of  relatives  from  violation.  They  arc  content  to  Imuse  iheinsehes,  e\en  thronnh  the  severest  winters,  in  the  flimsiest 
strnclnres,  which  afford  \ery  little  shelter  fiom  the  cold,  lint  their  dead  they  carefully  wrap  in  blankets  and  de|)osit  them  in  small  ohloii); 
houses  that  are  made  to  perfectly  exclude  rain,  snow  and  cold,  except  such  as  may  enter  by  a  sipiare  little  door  in  one  end.  These  miniature 
mortuary  houses  are  i)laced  close  to  the  homes  of  the  li\  ini;,  that  a  better  watch  nia\- be  kept  tipon  them;  but  what  superstitions  motive 
prompts  this  custom,  I  have  not  been  able  to  learn. 

Wisconsin  is  very  justly  famous  for  many  thinj;s;  its  .semi-ci\ilized  Indian  tribes,  its  lakes,  dense  pine  forests,  and  above  all  for  its 
wondrotis  scenery,  particnl.ivly 
alons;  the  Wisconsin  River, 
where  wonders  the  equal  of 
those  to  be  seen  in  Walkins' 
Cilen,  New  York,  are  met  with 
in  rapid  succession  some  six 
miles  north  and  south  of  Kil- 
boura  City.  It  was  to  Kilbourn 
City,  therefore,  that  we  ])ro- 
ceeded,  by  way  of  the  Cliicatjo, 
Milwaukee  and  St.  Paul  Rail- 
road, to  view  and  idioto^ra])h 
the  trtily  marvelous  scenery 
and  whimsically  erratic  fornn- 
tions  that  characterize  that 
section  of  the  river  known  as 
the  Dells.  The  ri\er  is  deep, 
but  at  places  so  tortuously  nar- 
row between  projectin<;  cIIhiws 
of  the  limestone  walls  that  only 
such  a  dimity  and  fair\-like 
steamboat  as  the  /)<//  (Jiiiiii 
can  thread  a  passa^'c,  and  we 
accordiuijly  committed  our- 
selves to  this  frail  little  craft 
for  the  trip  which  is  made  by 

tourists  fust  to  the  Upper  Dells,  eifjht  miles  above  the  city,  and  then  to  the  Lower  Dells,  which  are  three  miles  below.  For  many,  many 
centuries  the  Wisconsin,  probably  always  a  rapid  stream,  has  rasped  'ts  soft  Potsdam  sandstone-bed,  and  constantly  wearinjj  its  shore,  has 
finally  carved  out  a  wa\  that  is  fantastically  curious.  Now  the  stream  rolls  lauj^hing  alouj";  under  vertical  walls  sometimes  a  hundred  feet 
hi<j;Ii,  and  wrou^dit  into  the  most  weirdly  ffrotcscpie  forms  ima),nnable.  All  alou<;,  its  capricious  course  is  marked  by  caves,  caverns,  jjrottos, 
jjlens,  and  eccentric  jiillars  of  .stone  that  are  as  hmnoronsly  dressed  as  a  zany  in  caps  and  bells.  In  making  the  ascent  from  Kilbourn  City 
one  of  the  first  objects  to  arrest  attention  is  "  .Vnytel  Rock,"  whose  broad  stretch  of  ])ctrified  wing  is  said  to  jrnard  aj^ainst  intrusion  into  the 
spectral  haunts  that  lie  beyond.      "Swallow's  Fortress"  next  appears,  a  perpendicular  wall  of  very  great  height,  and  unbroken  length  of 


IHH   SlciAK-BOWl.,    DEI. IS   or   THH    WISf.ONSIN. 


jr 


322 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDi'RI.ANDS. 


'\   i 


III, 


two  liimdrKl  f«tl,  >;.iriis()iKil  liy  niyriiids  of  swnllows  tlKil  liavi-  inrfoialid  li.  •  face  iiiilil  it  looks  like  tlu'  lid  of  a  liii};i-  iH'|)|>cr-l)ox.  HaviiiR 
passed  this  castle  of  iii.iin  loop-holes,  we  enter  a  section  where  "Romance  C!''ffs"  pays  eternal  urcetinvjs  to  "  llinh  Rock,"  with  their 
stranjje  confij^nr.itioiis  and  ]iii  luiexine  st,itnar>  ;  a  spot  that  is  faNored  hy  spickled  tront  as  it  is  by  ]o\irs.  "Chimney  Rock"  iievt  hnrsts 
into  view,  l)\iilt  >ii)  of  as  many  strata  as  a  tower  of  pan-cakes,  whicli  from  a  distance  the  chimney  .sonu  what  resenddes.  I'Vom  the  "date's 
Ravine"  tlu  re  is  a  splendid  sii^lit  of  "  Sturj^eoii  Rock,"  whicli  is  so  perfectly  reflected  as  to  appear  twice  its  natural  size.  Why  it  is  called 
Sturgeon  Rock  not  even  tradition  tells  11s;  hnt  it  is  manifest  in  many  cases  that  those  who  hestowcd  nanus  upon  these  pictorial  surprises 
were  so  nrhitrary  as  to  he  indifferent  to  appropriateness,  like  the  colored  wom.iii  who  tailed  her  first-horn  lieel/ehuh,  hecausc  she  heard  that 
some  prince  hore  that  name. 

At  a  place  where  the  ii\er 
broadens,  and  the  left  shore 
spreads  into  a  lon^  level  covered 
"ith  willows,  while  the  ri.^ht 
bank  continues  its  precijiitons 
career,  there  is  a  wide  extension- 
table  projeetiuK  from  the  wall 
which  is  called  "X'isor  I.edtje, 
of  Stand  Rock."  This  jiittiu<r 
point  is  admir.ddy  de>i,;;ncd  for 
a  jnm|iin;;-iiff  ])l.K'e,  and  it  is  a 
matter  for  surprise  that  it  was 
not  christened  Lover's  Leap, 
like  all  other  simil.ir  ledjjes  .md 
shehes  th.it  I  have  seen.  I'e- 
yond  this  the  river  aiLj.iin 
narro\v>,  ami  sin,i,'nlar  efllores- 
cences  of  stone,  like  a  <;ar<leu 
of  flowerini^  curios,  wr.ip  our 
nttentiun  with  i|Ue>tionin^' sur- 
prise. "The  ll.iwk's  IJill"  is 
certain  to  catch  our  notice,  and 
equally  sure  to  e\cite  our  won- 
tler  that  it  was  not  called  the 
"Toothlos  Old  .M.in,"  for  it 
does  seem  th.it  he  mi},'ht  make  a 

nut-cracker  of  his  nose  and  chin.  "  Black  Hawk's  Leap''  must  be  accepted  as  a  pof)r  sidistitnte  for  the  "  Lo\cr's  Jump,"  but  as  the  latter 
has  no  ])lace  on  \\'i>con>iu  Riser  the  former  name  iias  been  applied  to  a  section  of  ])ietured  wall  that  is  excavated  at  the  base,  and  in  which 
the  fjuri^le  of  water  is  accentuated  by  echo  into  ominous  uoises.  This  natural  c.\ca\atiou  is  called  lilaek  Hawk's  Ca\e,  and  is  said  to  have 
been  the  pi. ice  of  retreat  of  a  van(|uished  party  of  Indians,  who  were  imirderonsiy  pursued  by  a  larj;e  unmber  of  their  enemies,  but  menu)ry 
fails  to  recall  the  jiarticulars.  A  little  further  beyond  is  another  Kf'tw  of  still  nmre  remarkable  formation,  called  "Cave  of  the  Dark 
Waters,"  aiul  riy;l!tly  it  is  named,  for  the  entrance  is  by  a  small  portal  into  a  connnodious  chamber  whose  first  most  noticeable  characteristic 


OCONUMONOC   PAI  IS,   WISr.ONSIN. 


II 


BBLKAGUhKHD  CASIl.E,  CAMP  DOUGLAS,  WISCONSIN. 


w 


\i 


'til. 
It'll 

III,   I 


324 


AMERICA'S  WOXDKRLANDS. 


is  its  darkncN-;.  Tlie  water  is  deep  tlironnliont,  and  continually  suggests  tlie  advantages  of  the  cave  as  a  place  in  which  to  coumiit  crime, 
or  to  kiss  yonr  girl  while  passing  through  a  dark  tunnel. 

k  i>-  a  positive  relief  from  the  oppression  which  entrance  to  the  Dark  Waters  Cave  produces  to  be  hailed,  after  emerging,  by  a  sturdy 
little  stone  island  with  a  tossing  crest  ot  nine,  n-liich  some  Sweet  William  has  named  the  "Sugar-Howl."  It  is  all  the  more  refreshing 
because  islands  in  the  river  are  exceedingly  scarce,  and  this  diversity  of  landscape  is  accordingly  doubly  aiipreciated. 

Still  further  beyond  is  the  "  Mouth  of  Witches'  Gulch,"  commanded  b\  picturesque  cliffs  that  show  the  teeth-marks  and  lacerations 
of  the  gnawing  waters.  So  romantic  is  the  spot,  and  so  inviting  the  little  saucer-shaped  beach  of  white  saud,  that  all  the  pleasure-boats 
iiuit  ply  in  the  Dells  uuike  a 
landing  licre  and  give  their  jias- 
sengers  opportunity  to  go  o. 
shore  and  carve  their  names  on 
the  terr.iced  walls.  So  many 
persons  had  been  there  before 
us,  however,  that  barely  space 
■:,  •■  found  to  write  a  pencil 
a'ii._'gvapli. 

Another  stop  is  made  at 
"Cold  Water  Canon,"  usually 
dry,  but  ihrongli  which  the  river 
pours  in  an  iinpet\ious  torrent 
during  high  v.-ait-r.  Hereabout 
are  also  glens  and  other  curious 
exca-'itious,  among  which  is  a 
I'.nllf'w  for.nation  seventy  feet 
higl;  and  fifty  broad,  called  the 
"  Devil's  Jug."  .Xnother  run 
of  less  than  a  mile  brings  us  to 
"Steamboat  Rock,"  an  oval 
island  covered  with  hemlock 
and  mountai;;  cedars,  opposite 
to  which  a  third  lauding  is 
made,    P'u'i    ascending    three 

fii<rhtsof  .staiis  to  sraiu  the  snui- 

•.     I,,         ,.,,  .     .    ,  CAVR   OF   THE    DARK   WATERS,    i.AKE   SUPERIOR. 

mit  of  the  clills,  across  a  stretch 

of  woods,  a;  d  descending  a  steep,  rocky  ledge, we  find  ourselves  at  the  superlative  wonder  of  the  Dell.s — Witches'  Otilch,  /vbmptly  arriving 
at  the  entrance  of  the  gulch,  above  which  \W  feet,  in  a  jjrojecting  rock,  may  be  seen  the  wry,  unmistakable  features  of  a  tousled  old  hag, 
the  fiueeu  of  the  witches,  so  ominously  frowning  on  forms  and  faces  below.  Without  the  slightest  exaggeration  it  certainly  is  one  of  the 
mo.st  wonderful,  weird  and  ])eculiar  i)laces  on  this  continent. 

Krte:iug  the  gulch,  we  look  np — tar  up — and  catch  glinip.scs  of  sunlight  and  see  Ir'ge  pines  prostrate  and  lying  from  one  ledge  to 
another,  adin.  uishing  us  to  look  well  to  oi'r  going,     .\tter  many,  many  windings,  we  coiue  into  "  Phantom  Chamber,"  and  in  the  side  of  a 


mi 

-t 


MINER'S  l-AI.I.S,   LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


WHITE   ROCK,  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


I 


rn^ 


ill 


Mil 

Mi: 


2,2b 

rocky  ledge,  scooped  out,  as  if  by  liand,  find 
a  natural  basin,  and  take  a  drink  of  tlic  cuol 
spring  water  gnrglinj;  out  of  the  great  rock 
into  tliis  hidden  Tool  of  Siloani.  In  this 
rocky  apartment  we  ascend  a  pair  of  stairs, 
from  under  which  the  stream  that  meanders 
tlirougii  the  entire  gulch  leaps  in  majestic 
fall,  Its  roar  almost  deafening,  and  spray 
dashing  over  us.  I'"'>r  thousands  of  years  this 
little  stream — at  first,  probably,  a  switch  of 
rainfall  on  the  earth's  surlace  —  has  been 
engaged  in  wearing  this  chasm  in  the  sand- 
stone, until  now  the  gorge  is  seventy-five  feet 
deep,  nearly  a  mile  long,  anil  in  some  places 
so  narrow  that  a  large  jiersou  can  only  pass 
through  with  difficulty,  especially  at  Fat  Man's 


AMERICA'S  WOXDHKLAXDS. 


(or  Woman's)  Misery-point.  In  several 
places  vast  chambers  have  been  formed,  at 
the  door-way  of  one  of  which  a  beautiful  fall 
of  water  leaps  down  into  a  deep-cut  basin. 

There  are  several  dee.i  crevas.ses  in  the 
river  leading  to  places  of  extraordinary  beaut  .• 
and  wonder,  and  which  on  account  of  the 
narrow  passage  cannot  be  reached  by  the 
little  steamboat.  Row-boats  are  therefore 
provided,  by  the  aid  of  which  we  visited  a 
number  of  these  side-attractions.  "Sky- 
light Cave"  is  one  of  these  which,  though 
having  a  small  mouth,  widens  inside  and 
receives  light  through  a  little  crevice  at  the 
top.  It  is  a  cosy  little  retreat  that  well  re- 
repays  a  visit. 


THH   DID   f.l'ARIi.    NKAI?    IK-.VII.'S    LAKE,  WIS. 


I  »«4—  tU 

SPLIT  ROCK,   DtVIL'S  LAKE,  WISCONSIN. 

Returning  to  Kilbourn  City,  on  the 
following  day  a  trip  was  made  to  Ta>lor's 
C.len,  which  is  thus  well  described  by  a  cor- 
respondent: ".At  the  handsome  school  build- 
ing on  the  east  side  of  the  village,  a  rugged 
path  struggles  down  into  an  ordinary  '  hol- 
low,' which  farther  down  and  followed,  o])cns 
into  a  grand  gorge.  Ivvery  step  now  rc\eals 
scenes  and  formations  beside  which  all  the 
lK)asted  charms  of  'Watkin's  dlen'  become 
connnonitlace.  lieing  neither  cave  nor  vallcv, 
but  combining  all  the  attractions  of  both,  it 
winds  and  twists  through  immense  rocks  in  a 
serpentine  ])ath.  At  one  jioint,  far  overhead, 
a  sheet  of  daxlight  slants  through  a  mere  rift 
in   tl'.e    rocks.        The  roof  and  high-arching 


I  ALLS  or  ST.  LOUIS  RIVER. 


■I 


KAIMDS  i)l-    .WUMKl.Al.    KIVHK,    NORTH  OF    t.AKH   SUPERIOR. 


■I 
111 


I    ■  Mi 


^28 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


walls  arc  frescoed  with  diaiiioiul  dew  and  diippinjj,  droopiiiff  mosses  and  lichens.  Groups  of  strange  figures,  carved  by  cataracts,  washed 
by  whirlpools  ages  on  ages  ago,  ape  Egypti m  gods  and  niunnnies  of  the  ancient  Orient.  Here  a  crystal  spring  bursts  from  a  wall  of  solid 
stone  and  goes  dancing  down  over  pebbles  and  ferns.  On  through  an  ever-vaniing  pathway  filled  with  kaleidoscope-like  enchantment  we 
wandered  with  awe  and  admiration,  our  journey  ending  at  a  long,  dark  tunnel,  which  looks  out,  through  a  wide,  cavernous  window,  upon 
the  river  beyond.  The  Lower  Dells,  like  their  companions  above  the  village,  have  rocky  banks,  covered  with  vegetation,  and  curiously 
shaped  formations  no  less  interesting  than  the  aggregation,  a  description  of  which  I  have  but  faintly  accomplished.  One  cannot  .see  this 
truly  remarkable,  weird,  romantic  ai.d  beautiful  section  of  our  laud  and  suppress  admiration.  Nor  will  a  week  suffice  for  a  thorough 
exploration  of  the  caves,  grottos, 
rocks  and  ravines  hereabouts. 
Above  Witches'  (lulch  is  a  beauti- 
ful view  of  the  river,  its  bluffs  and 
many  islands,  a  fairly  comparable 
Lake  Oeorge  view.  A  fine  drive  is 
had  north  from  Kilbourn  to  '  Hor- 
net's Nest,'  'Squaw's  Chamber,' 
'Luncheon  Hall,'  'Stand  Rock,' 
'  Devil's  Lake,'  and  many  points  of 
interest  farther  up  the  river  and  in 
the  country  in  this  and  adjoining 
counties." 

The  whole  region  within  a 
radius  of  thirty  or  nmre  miles  of 
Kilbourn  City.  ])articularly  on  the 
west,  is  full  of  natural  curiosities, 
for  the  district  was  e\  idently  U  one 
time,  in  the  remote  past,  the  bed  of 
a  lake  whose  swirling  waters  carved 
the  soft  sandstones  into  many 
astounding  forms,  and  llieii  were 
assuaged  lissome  force  which  geol- 
ogists fail  to  explain,  k-a\  iug  these 
rare  monuments  of  their  work 
behind  them.  Devil's  r,ake,  near- 
bv,  is  the  relic  of  th.it  vast  inl.iud 


(ilANT'S   r.ASTl.E,   NEAR   CAMP   nOUCil.AS. 


sea,  which  no  doubt  was  a  part  of  the  gre.it  lakes,  on  the  shores  of  which  arc  many  images  of  wondrous  shapes  and  size,  with  mauv  of 
which  interesting  legends  are  coiinectid.  Thus  ".Sacrifice  Stone,"  in  "Wonder  Notch,"  is  po])ularly  believed  to  be  the  rock  on  which 
an  Indian  maiden  was  innnolated  at  an  unknown  time  to  projutiate  the  anger  of  the  C.rcat  Spirit,  while  "Cleft  Rock"  rc|)resents  the  fury 
of  the  devil  who,  while  in  a  ])assion  oxer  some  act  of  the  tribe,  rose  out  of  the  lake  and  hurled  one  of  his  fiery  darts  with  such  poor  aim 
that  it  did  no  other  damage  than  split  the  largest  slmie  on  the  shore. 

Cleopatra's  Needle  is  likewise  reputed  to  be  the  transformed  and  geologic  remains  of  a  very  ancient  Indian  chief  who  was  ])uuished 


'^1 


!.' 


SUC.AR-LOAF,   MACJNAC   ISLAND. 


If         I 


330 


AMERICAS  WONDKRLAiNDS. 


■il:; 

nil 

111' 


by  tlie  devil  for  tlie  audacity  of  attcini)tinii;  lo  pcne- 
trale  the  mysteries  of  the  lake  ;  while  another  broken 
and  distorted  stone  on  the  front  of  Ivist  Monntain  is 
connected  with  a  similar  and  indistinct  tradition  re- 
specting^ the  invidions  cnriosity  of  a  scpiaw.  lUit 
thonj^h  there  is  no  lack  ol  snperstitions  beliefs  among 
the  few  Indians  of  the  district,  who  resjiect  these 
qneer  formations  as  the  relies  of  their  forefathers, 
there  is  no  more  fonndation  for  them  than  the  mere 
ciaini  that  'so  it  has  been  told,"  for  no  one  has  ever 
heard  the  particnlars.     It  is  a  fori^otten  story. 

Near  the  west  center  of  Junean  connty,  fifteen 
miles  east  of  the  Wisconsin  River,  is  a  cross-roads 
railroad  town  called  Camp  Douglas,  which  is  in  the 
midst  of  a  region  remarkable  for  natiiral  cnriosities, 
rivaling;  those  foiind  in  the  Had  Lands  in  Wyominjj. 
It  is  a  connlry  of  sandstone  that  exhibits  the  aslonish- 
inj;  resnlts  of  centnries  of  water  and  wind  erosicnis  upon 
what  was  manifestly  once  a  vast  bed  of  arijjiilaceons  clay, 
that  in  the  process  of  time  was  converted  into  soft  stone 
as  the  lake  dried  np.  The  recedin.i;  waters  gradnally 
wore  deep  ravines  in  the  sandstone,  thus  K'^'"fJ  birth 
to  rivnicts  vliich  aided  a  more  rapid  chanj.fe  in  the  bed 
nnlil  it  became  traversed  by  nnmerons  streams  that  in 
time  ctnnjiletely  drained  tlie  lake.  Then  the  winds 
beifan  their  work  of  ennlin,:.;,  helped  by  the  sand  which 
they  carried,  and  the  resnlt  became  finally,  as  we 
behold  it  in  the  Bad  '  ands,  and  in  Monnnient  Park, 
Colorado,  a  larije  nnuiber  of  toweis,  domes,  pinnacles 
and  other  arehilecl\iral  forms.  To  the  more  slrikinL;ly 
cnrions  sha|)es  names  ha\e  been  gi\en,  as  the  "Old 
Cinard,"  "  C.iant's  Castle,"  "Castle  Kock,"  "Chimney 
Rock,"  "Signal  Koek,"  "  Heleagnered  Castle,"  etc., 
as  shown  by  the  illnstrations. 

From  Kilbiinrn  City  we  went  to  Milwaukee,  and 
thence  b\'  the  Chicago  and  Xorthwestern,  and  the  .Min- 
neapolis, vSt.  Paul  and  Sanlt  Ste.  Marie  Railroad  to  St. 
Ignace,  where  we  took  bo.it  for  Mackinac  Island,  a  verv 
noted  resort  in  the  Straits  of  Mackinaw.  This  island 
is  celebrated  for  its  splendid  scenery,  some  of  which 


CHl.MNEY   AND  RRE   POCKS,  CA.MP  DOUGLAS,  WISCONSIN. 


1  -n 


'  i 


«'  ; 


I IJ '  J.  I 


;« 


ll'' 


Mr. 


l!^    -i 


:   il 


332 

we  pliotoijraphed,  after  wliich  we  proceeded 
to  Sault  Stc.  Marie,  tlie  seat  of  ^jovcrmneiit 
of  Chippewa  county,  Micliij4:aii,  and  noted  for 
having  one  of  the  hirgest  and  finest  ship 
canals  in  the  world,  tlirongh  which,  surpris- 
ing as  the  statement  appears,  a  larger  daily 
tonnage  passes  than  the  Suez  Canal  aecuuinio- 
dates.  One  of  the  sights  that  are  apt  to  claim 
the  i)articidar  attention  of  visitors  now  are 
the  new  grain-carrying  vessels  called  Wliale- 
backs,  which  have  within  the  last  three  years 
become  a  feature  of  our  lake  comiuerce. 

In  order  to  observe  the  shores  more 
clearly,  we  took  one  of  the  Lake  Superior 
Transit  Company's  steamers  at  .Sault  Ste. 
Marie  for  Duluth,  a  route  which  gives  op])or- 
tunity  for  taking  phntographs  of  ilie  incom- 
parable pictured  cliffs  of  Supericir.  Hut  at 
Maniuette,  where  the  sle;.uier  lam's,  a  \acht 
was  engaged  in  which  we  were  able  to  a])proacli 
much  of  the  finest  sceuer\-  that  would  other- 
wise have  escaped  our  atteutiiui 

The  range  of  cliffs  to  which  tlie  name 
of  Pictured  Rocks  has  been  given,  may  be 
regarded  as  among  the  most  striking  and 
beautiful  features  of  the  scener\-  of  the  Xortli- 
west,  and  is  well  worthy  the  attention  of  the 
artist  and  the  obs(.-rver  of  geologic. d  phe- 
nouieiia.  They  may  be  described,  in  general 
terms,  as  a  scries  of  sandstone  bluffs  extending 
along  the  shore  of  l^ake  .Superior  for  aliout 
five  miles,  aiul  (leri\e  their  name  from  the 
great  di\ersity  of  colors  they  displav.  Thev 
are  worn  into  strange  shajjes  by  frost  and 
storm,  and  stained  b\-  a  thousand  d\es  in 
every  possible  variety  of  arrangement,  far 
beyond  the  power  of  words  to  describe,  and 
all  this  profusion  is  repeate<l  mile  after  mile, 
kee])iug  up  the  interest  by  sume  new  prospect 
of   sweeping   curve,   or   rbrupt    angle,   or 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDKRLANDS. 


SIGNAL   ROCK,  CAMP  DOUGLAS. 


NIPIGON   KIVER,  FLOWING   INTO  LAKH   SUPERIOR. 


TT^T 


i 

I 


lif 


:ii 


nil 


I'll 


334  AMHRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 

fantastic  fonn.  "The  'Castli-,"  tlu'  first  i>f  tlio  more  slrikiiifj  features  of  the  rocks,  bears  at  a  distance  a  ^reat  resemblance  to  an  ancient 
castle,  with  walls,  towers,  and  baltlenunls.  I'nrther  on,  a  mass  of  detached  rock  called  the  'Sail  Rock'  conies  into  view,  and  so  striking; 
is  its  resemblance  to  a  sloop  with  the  jib  and  mainsail  spread,  that  a  short  distance  ont  on  the  lake  any  one  would  suppose  it  a  real  boat 
sailinjr  near  the  beach.  15nt  the  jirincipal  featnre  of  the  rocks  is  the  majjnificent  cave  known  as  the  '(Irand  I'ortal.'  Let  the  reader 
imagine  himself  in  a  room  -HKI  feet  lonj,'  by  l'<  feet  wide,  and  l.">0  to  L'IMI  feet  hi^h  to  the  arched  roof,  bulk  of  yellow  .sandstone,  seamed 
with  decay,  and  drippinjj  with  water.  Shont,  and  the  voice  is  nmltiiilied  an  hnndredfold  bv  echoes  th.it  reverberate  several  seconds,  sharp, 
metallic.  Here  the  stratum  of  jjr.ivel  rises  about  fifty  feet,  while  at  the  castle  it  is  nearly  down  to  the  water's  level.  The  waters  are 
nudermininjr  the  fonndatitnis,  and  wearinjj  holes  every- 
where in  the  sni>port  of  the  walls  and  the  roof.  The 
water  in  the  cave  increases  in  deiHli  as  you  jjo  on 
towards  the  lake,  from  the  bare  rocks  of  the  back 
end  to  about  fifty  feet  at  the  oi)enin)^,  and  a  few  rods 
from  the  shore  it  is  a  hundred  feet,  or  more.  The  cliff 
on  the  west,  next  to  the  (Irand  I'ortal,  is  hollowing:  out, 
formiuj;  an  immense  cave,  incrcasinj;  every  year." 

"  It  is  beyond  the  ])iiwer  of  the  jjencil,"  says  a 
recent  traveler,  "to  rejiresent  the  effect  i>f  the  refiected 
li^'lit  in  the  roof  as  seen  fmm  the  rear.  Especially 
when  the  sun  is  toward  the  west  the  brij^ht  lii^ht  is 
reflected  from  the  waves  into  the  cavern,  and  undulates 
like  a  sea  of  liKht  overhead;  a  ])icture  in  livinj,'  colors, 
so  tender,  .so  cpiiet  —  luminous,  ])early  nf'')'^!  bright 
flashes,  cool,  liiKh  lij,dlts,  all  warmed  l)y  the  yellow 
sandstone,  drippin;^  with  water,  on  which  the  effect  is 
thrown." 

"At  the  month  of  Miner's  River  the  coast  makes  an 
abrupt  turn  to  the  eastward,  an<l  just  at  the  point  where 
the  rocks  break  off  and  the  sand  beach  bey;ius,  is  seen 
one  of  the  j^randest  works  of  n.iture  in  her  rock-luiilt 
architecture,  which  is  known  as  'Miners'  Castle,' 
from  its  sinj^ular  resemblance  to  the  tnrreted  entrance 
and  arched  ])ortal  of  souu-  old  castle.  The  hei),'lit  of 
the  advanciuy;  mass,  in  which  the  form  of  the  ^othie 
gateway  maybe  recognized,  is  about  se\euty  feet,  while 
that  of  the  main  wall  forming  the  background  is  about  one  hundred  aud  fort\-.  The  appearance  of  the  opening  at  the  base  changes  rapidly 
with  each  change  in  the  position  of  the  spectator,  and  on  taking  a  position  a  little  to  the  right  of  that  occni)ied  by  the  sketcher,  the  central 
ojieuing  apjjcars  more  distinctly,  flanked  on  either  si<le  by  two  lateral  passages,  making  the  resend)Iance  to  an  artificial  work  still  nu)re 
striking.  The  chapel,  if  not  the  grandest,  is  among  the  most  grotes(|i'.e  of  nature's  architecture  here  displayed.  I'niike  the  excavations 
before  described,  which  occur  at  the  w. iter's  eclge,  this  h.is  bei  u  made  in  the  rock  at  a  height  of  thirty  or  forty  feet  above  the  lake.  The 
interior  consists  of  a  vaulted  apartment,  which  has  not  inaptly  received  the  name  it  bears.     An  arched  roof  of  .sandstone,  from  ten  to  twenty 


SAM)   ISLAM)   ARCH,   lAKU   SITHKIOR. 


I! 


t    ■    ;l 
.1 


III 


35^ 


A.MKRICA'S  WOXDKUl.ANDH. 


(cit  in  thickness,  rests  on  four  jjif^aiitic  colunins  of  mik,  so  as  In  Itave  a  \aultiil  apartnuiit  nf  im'jj;nlar  sliape,  aliout  forty  fiit  in  dianii'tcr, 
ami  alioiit  tlic  same  in  lR'i);lit.  The  eoliinnis  consist  of  linely  stratified  rock,  anil  have  lieen  worn  into  cnrions  shapes.  At  the  l)ase  of  one 
of  theui  an  arched  cavity,  or  niche,  has  been  cnt,  to  which  access  is  had  hy  a  fli;;lit  of  stejis,  fornie<l  l)y  tlie  projectinK  strata.  The 
disposition  of  the  whole  is  such  as  to  resenthle,  very  mnch,  the  jmlpit  of  a  church;  since  tliere  is,  overhead,  an  arched  c.mopy,  and  in  front 
an  opening'  ont  tow.irds  the  vanlte<l  interior  or  the  chapel,  witli  a  fl.it  tnlmlar  mass  in  front,  rising;  to  a  convenient  hei^;ht  for  a  desk,  while 
on  the  ri^ht  is  an  isol.iteil  lilock,  whicli  not  inaptly  rejiresents  an  altar;  so  that,  if  the  whole  had  lieen  adapted  eNjiressly  for  a  place  of 
wor>hip,  and  fashioned  hy  the  hands  of  men,  it  conld  hardly  have  heen  arranjjed  more  appropriately.  It  is  .scarcely  possihle  to  ilescrihe 
the  sin),'nlar  and  tini<ine  effect 
of  this  extraordinary  strnctine; 
it  is  trnly  a  temple  of  natnre  — 
'an  house  not  made  with 
hands.'  " 

The  I'ictnred  Rocks  are 
beantifnl  and  fantastic  at  all 
times,  hnt  it  is  in  winter  that 
they  are  snliliniely  lovely,  be- 
wil(lerinj;ly  jjrancl,  as  photo- 
graphs taken  hy  Mr.  Chilils,  to 
whom  we  are  indelited  for  their 
nse  lure,  will  show.  The  falls 
of  Miners'  River  are  exipiisite 
when  ponring  over  a  l>rink 
frinj^'cd  with  greenest  foil;ige,  hnt 
when  held  in  the  vise-like  gri]) 
of  winter  they  are  magnificent 
alniii>t  beyond  conce])tion. 
They  are  a  fitting  prehide  to  the 
spectatorinm  of  cave  wonders 
near-by,  snch  as  the  "Abode  of 
the  Cienii,"  which  might  better 
be  called  the  "Throne-room  of 
I'airy  .Sl.ilacta.''  The  water 
])ercolatiiig  ihrongh  the  roof  of 

the  caverns  is  frozen  into  the  rarest,  daintiest  and  most  cxqnisite  incrustations  imaginable,  some  having  the  appearance  of  snow  balls, 
chrysanthennuns  anil  lilies,  while  others  reach  down  their  innnense  crystal  points,  as  if  trying  to  rest  their  ponderons  weight  upon  the 
opalescent  floor.  The  "  Cavc-of-tlu -Wimls"  has  a  splendid  entrance,  and  being  shallow  in  de|)th  is  well  lighted,  so  that  the  ice-covered 
walls  reflect  the  most  gorgeo\is  colors;  Imt  the  cunge.iled  f<'n'ntions,  while  very  beantifnl,  cannot  compare  with  those  that  the  (lenii  of 
the  neighbor  grotto  have  api>roj)riated.  The  s])len(iorsof  theseshores,  however,  are  by  no  means  confined  to  the  caverns,  for  almost  e(|nally 
cnrions  and  charming  views  are  presented  by  the  vertical  faces  of  the  snowy  cliffs,  npon  which  winter  hangs  the  most  magnificent  draperies. 
"The  Ciscade"  is  formed  by  the  w.iter  flowing  over  a  low  bench  along  the  shore,  bnt  at  manv  points  more  cnrions  effects  are  produced  bv 


ABODE  OF  THE  GENII.   I.AKH  SI'PBKIOH. 


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HHINCthS    l-.AV.    I    \Ki     '■I  !'l  I'KJl'. 


AMERICA'S  WOXDlvRLAXDS. 

till'  fii'ico  l^ishini^s  ui  llif  lake  that  toss 
sliowirs  (if  spray  liij^h  up  on  tin.'  clilfs, 
wIkiv  it  liif/.fs  into  s1ia]H'S  juiMiliarh' 
WiMuK'it'ul  and  oftrn  radiar.tlN-  luaiitiful. 
"  I'rti-i's  Pilhr  "  is  a  curious  ioi.'  nionu-  I 
mint  fornii'd  l>y  a  link-  watirl.ill  that  . 
drops  ihroniili  a  hnk'  it  has  worn  in  the 
lihilf,  but  ahonl  ihc  base  are  prt-ltv  ict' 
tt-rraccs  and  j^racil'ul  corrn.i^atinns,  tile 
I'rozi'ii  spray  cast  I'roni  tlic  shorc-licatiuL; 
waves  of  the  ai'  'r\-  lake. 

'"The  (inuul  I'ortal  "  is  a  perl'mation 
thron.yh  an  cllmw  of  the  ii.disades,  and  of 
such  ina<;nitiuk'  as  to  appear  like  a  vast 
ca\e,when  viiwed  from  an  aui;le.  Inside, 
luiwever,  it  is  setn  to  tie  a  j^ria'  [inmel, 
sufileientl;  cnrve<l  to  barely  a  Iniit  the 
sii;ht  of  a  small  ojienint;  at  eacli  end.  At 
this  point  the  cliffs  jnt  into  the  lake,  and 
in  w  inter  they  are  festooned  and  royally 
endHlIished  with  hnely  ice-forms  of  c\ery 
im.iL;inable  shape.  A  formation  .somewhat 
'auiil.ir  is  seen  on  "S.uid  Iskind"  of  the 
.\postle  •'■roup,  when,  the  be.itinjLj  waves 
ha\e  made  an  exea\.itio  i  thronijh  an  arm 
i>f  the  palisades  snl11cientl\-  larj;e  to  admit 
the  ]ia--<ai;e  of  a  rnw-boat. 

lint  for  miles  the  vertical  and  j;leam- 
ini;  white  bluffs  of  san<Ktnne,  sometimes 
roemblinj;  the  chalk  b.inks  of  Albion, 
distin,;uish  the  shore  Hue,  and  exhibit 
siir]nisinii;  perforations  th.it  are  friipiei-.tly 
l.iri;e  enon..,dl  to  ])ermit  a  boat  to  venture 
out  of  sii^ht;  and  n;itiirally  they  attr.ict 
larj^e  numbers  of  summer  tourists,  who 
find  in  these  ca\es,  like  the  "  liay  of 
I.--k>"  and  "Cave  ol'  the  D.irk  Waters," 
excellent  trout  lisliiii;;. 

The  wonders  of  I.;ike  .Sn]>(rior"s  shores 
do  not   leruiiu.ite  n\.   Ilnlnth,  for  the  walls 


nil-:  si-:a-hi  biMixNT,  i  \ki-,  sl!P^■:l?l()i^ 


i'\ii  I  ( )(  K  IM  \M).  1  AKi:  si;i'i:ioi(ii(. 


fjil 


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IHH    R.K    PAI.,U:E    at   SI.    I'Al  I.   IN    Ihsh. 


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SIDKMINCJ    Illh   bl.    PAUL   ICE   PAI.ACH-1S«S. 


■SB 


1. 1     ,■:' 


.11 


ll'll. 
'•  III 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


rise  to  even  a  sricMtcr  lu'i,t;lit  on  tlic  north  li-io  aiul  arc  of  screen  suiul- 
sloiie  ami  jic)r|ili\  ry,  oixMsiinially  twi-lve  liniuln.-(l  fi'it  lii.ijli.  The  St. 
Louis  Ki\cr  cntirs  the  1  ikc  from  the  northwest  at  Diilulli;  and  thoujjli 
this  stream  is  barely  deep  eiion,i;h  to  float  a  raft  of  lo>;s,  it  nnis  between 
lofty  banks  of  the  same  j^eneral  character  as  those  which  confine  the 
Cireat  Lake,  haiormous  jialisades  line  the  north  slior..  of  Snjierior, 
whose  columns  are  so  synnnetrie.d  as  to  ecjual  the  best  ]irodnclions  of 
the  scidptor's  art.  I'ij^eou  Kixer  forms  p.iil  of  the  boiindarv  line 
between  Canada  and  the  United  States,  and  is  a  stream  in  <;reat  rep\Ue 
with  sportsmen,  and  also  offers  attractions  to  those  who  delij^ht  in 
natural  scenery  of  a  sublinu  haracter.  I'iijeon  l-'alls  is  but  one  of 
many  interruptions  in  its  course  towards  the  l.ike,  the  pool  formed  bv 
the  drojipini;  water  beini;  a  favorite  haunt  for  trout  and  s.dmon,  while 
in  the  numerous  lakes  near-by  are  mvriads  of  water-f<nvls  that  have  their 
uestini^-places  on  the  shores.  ,\  few  miles  toward  the  east  is  Xipi- 
j;on  River,  another  beautiful  stream  that  connects  a  lake  of  the  same 
name  with  Superior.  It  is  somewhat  wider  than  l'i)j;eon  River,  and  its 
shores  are  less  bluffy;  thus  the  current  beiui;  less  rapid,  the  stre.un  is 
diversified  by  many  little  islands  that  are  so  ijreen  with  jiiues,  henj- 
locks  and  other  trees  as  to  Umk  like  emerald  ,y;ems.  lint  ail  alonjj;  the 
north  shore  are  scenes  of  jjreat  be.uity,  and  \ast  stores  of  Uiineral 
wealth  in  iron  and  co])per  lie  ouly  a  few  feet  beneath  the  surf:ice;  \et 
notwithstanding;  all  these  attractions,  the  re<,Mon  is  r.irely  visited  save 
bv   Indians  and  sportsmen. 

We  reached  St.  Paid,  after  an  absence  of  nearly  one  month, 
ami  there  met  our  ]dioto<;rapher  who  had  yone  iiUo  the  Hlack  Hills  in 
<iuest  of  views.  liein^  thus  rennite<l,  we  st.irted  down  the  Mississippi, 
but  by  rail,  as  the  Chica!i;o,  Milwaukee  and  .St.  Paul  Railroad  follows 
the  bank  as  far  as  La  Crosse.  Sever.d  stops  were  made,  however,  in 
order  to  catch  jiictnres  (.)f  l-"ort  Suellin;.^,  and  the  strand  bluffs  above 
and  below  Winona,  which  for  towerini,'  maj,niificence  far  exceed  the 
hills  that  render  the  Huilsun  famous.  Indeed,  cousiderin.y;  the  river 
from  St.  I'atil  to  l'ei)iii  Lake,  the  .Mississi|)pi's  shores  jiresent  finer 
scenery  than  is  to  be  found  alony^  any  other  navi.i;al)le  stream  on  either 
continent.  liiit  south  <  f  that  ])oint  the  views  are  rather  monotonous 
until  r.rafton  is  reached,  where  the  I'i.isa  I'dnffs  bej^jin  .and  run  alony; 
the  river  for  twenty  niiks,  eNhibitiu.ij  not  (Uily  j^reat  \erlical  heitrht, 
but  curious  shapes,  and  at  one  point  some  very  ancient  Indian  picture 
writin''s. 


I'l  lll'N   I'll  I  \l',   I  AKK  sl'l'i:i(l(  »l^ 


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III 


PIGEON  RlVbR  lAl.l.S,  NOIMH  SHOHIi  Ol"  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


!T:r^ 


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I 


ni>, 


I  Hi 
III 


Ul.l)   lUiU    bM;I.I.INi,,   U\    lllf-;    Ml^^^lbMI'lM    KIV1;1<. 


CHAPTKR  X. 

SCENIC  MARVELS  OF  THE  GREAT  NORTHEAST. 


,UR  circuit  of  the  West  had  now  been  coniplcted,  and  havinjj^  surrendered  the  camera  car  which  we  had  chartered,  we  made  nasty 
preparations  for  a  jjrand  tour  of  all  that  section  1\  ing  east  of  the  Mississippi.  Ikfore  departinj;  for  the  East,  however,  we  made  a 
flying  trip  over  the  St.  Louis  &  San  Francisco  Railroad  to  Ivureka  Sprinp;s,  a  popular  health  resort  in  Xorthern  Arkansas,  surrounded 
by  .some  very  beautiful  scenery  that  spread.s  away  through  the  Ozark  and  Uoston  Mountains  in  picturesque  grandeur,  diversified  by 
swift-flowing  streams,  deep  gorges,  terrible  bluffs  and  immense  caves  that  are  gorgeously  embellished  with  gigantic  stalactite  and 
stalagmite  formations.  If  these  magnificent  scenes  were  not  so  conveniently  near  a  large  city,  they  woidd  be  a  hundredfold  more 
famous,  for  it  is  human  nature  to  yearn  for  the  least  accessible  and  the  most  difficult  of  attainment.     In  short,  we  rarely  appreciate  the 

things   that    we    have,    and    exaggerate    the  importance   and 

attractiveness  of  places  which  are  remote.  It  is  this  pecu- 
liarity of  the  human  mind  that  makes  heaven  a  necessity  and 
immortality  a  natural  deduction,  the  irresistible  conclusion  of 
human  reason. 

We  tarried  one  week  in  St.  Louis  before  departing  for 
the  East,  and  then  again  divided  our  party,  one  of  our  pho- 
tographers ])roceeding  to  Pittsburgh,  and  thence  through 
Pennsylvania  and  \'irginia,  taking  views  of  the  famous 
scenery  of  those  States,  while  the  other  two  whose  travels  we 
will  now  describe,  passed  northward  to  Chicago,  and  thence 
cast  by  way  of  Niagara.  Having  heard  uiuch  of  a  cele- 
brated point  known  as  Starved  Rock,  on  the  Illinois  River,  a 
l)lace  of  commanding  interest  in  the  history  of  La  Salle  and 
his  adventurous  companions,  we  resolved  to  stop  at  Ottawa,  en 
route  to  Chicago,  and  make  a  ]ihotograi)h  of  the  historic  rock. 
We  reached  Ottawa  by  the  Chicago,  Rnrliugton  and  Quincy 
Road,  and  thence  by  driving  ten  miles  iu  a  spring  wagiui  we 
gained  the  spot  made  celebrated  through  a  tradition  which  is 
as  romantic  as  it  is  tragic. 

vStarved  Rock  is  now  the  propert\-  of  a  companv,  and  is 
STARVHt)  ROCK,  ON   II.I.INOIS  RIVRR,   NEAR  OTTAWA,   IM.INOIS.  ^j^^^^^^,,  ,,„  ^,,^.  ,^,,.^  ,,  „,^  ^,f  ^,,^  Illinois  River,  near  the  foot  of 

the  rapids.  It  is  a  ])erpeudicular  bluff  of  limestone,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and  is  crowned  with  oaks  and  other  forest  trees. 
'I'he  water  front  i>resents  a  precipitous  wall,  but  there  is  a  slope  towards  an  adjoiuiug  bluff  by  which  it  is  alone  accessible.  The  suunnit 
has  an  area  of  about  one  acre,  but  is  a  natural  stronghold;  and  perceiving  its  advaulai'.es.  La  Salle,  on  his  first  return  trip  to  Canada, 
ordered  his  Indian  lieutenant,  named  Touti,  to  fortify  himself  upon  the  Rock,  .supphiug  him  with  one  small  canu<ui  for  that  prrpose. 
Tonti  carried  out  these  orders,  and,  it  is  .said,  died  and  was  buried  tipou  the  Rock.  Years  afterward,  the  place  became  conspicuous  in  the 
Indian  wars;  and  it  is  related  that  after  the  killing  of  Pontiac,  chief  of  the  Ottawas,  in  a  drunken  row  at  Cahokia,  some  of  '  ' 


peopli 


J4.S 


ti^ 


It'll 


I 'I. 


I'll' 


BA^IN   bPI'INGb,    tUPEKA   SPKIMJS,    ARKANSAS,  ON   ST.   I.OUIS    AND  SAN    FRANCISCO   HAILKOAlX 


AMI'klCA'S  WUXDI-RLAXDS. 


347 


c1i;irs;i'(l  tlic  Illinois  tribe  with  tlic  crimo  .uul  uukU'  \\\\v  upmi  tlKiii.  I'.i'iiiy;  fcilile  in  nuniln-rs,  tluy  were  driwn  bcfcnv  the  Ottawas  so 
ivnioisclcssly  that  as  a  last  nscirt  tlk-y  [n„k  ntu.i^'i-  on  StaiMil  Rm-k.  IIiTc  IIkv  wc-iv  ahlc  tu  iiolil  tlnir  iMieinifs  at  hav,  lint  thiir  dislress 
was  mine  the  less  hci-ansi' (,f  lluir  aliililv  to  |iu  vint  a  scalin,ir  of  thuir  stronghold,  for  the  Ottawas  l)csie>;e(l  the  Uock  and  effeelnaliy 
l)re\eiited  the  Illinois  from  seenrin;,'  any  snpplies.  Water  was  for  awhile  jiroenred  hy  means  of  vessels  attached  to  ropes  of  hark,  whicli 
were  let  down  into  the  stream.  ]hit  this  de\  iee  was  pnsently  diseo\ered  and  l)revented  li\-  tln'  Ottawas  coniinj,'  under  the  hlnff  in  canoes 
and  cuttiu};  the  ro])es.  I'nwilliM.tj  to  surrender  and  rnn  the  risk  of  tortnre,  the  nnfortnnale  Illinois  remained  in  the  jilaee  of  their  retreat 
until  one  by  one  they  died  of  starxation.  This  is  the  tradition  current  in  La  Salle  count\-,  and  the  fnidiu!:,'-  of  many  Indian  relies  and 
bones  lui  the  Rock  tend  to  confirm  its  truthfulness. 

I'roui  Cliieano  we  went  east  over  the  Michii^an  Central  to  \ia,i,'ara  l"alls,  that  <;reatest  of  natural  wonders,  a  sublime  apotheosis  of 

onniipotenee,  a  fjlorificatioil  of  the  immeas- 
urable power  th.it  nature  possesses,  in  whose 

roar  we  disliuLjuish  the  halleluj.di  chorus  of 

ceiUuries  and  [leans  of  praise  to  the  miy;htiness 

of  Deity. 

Kiajjara  I'alls,  the  .siiprenie  luitural  uiar- 

vel  of  both  continents,  is  divided  into  two  cat- 
aracts, vi/..:  American  I'alls,  flowinjj;  towards 

the  American  or  western  side,  and  Iloiseshoe 

h'alls,  which  dischari^es  towards  the  Canada 

side,  the  two  beinj;  separated  by  (loat  Island. 

The  height  of  the  former  is  one  hundred  and 

lour  feet,  and  the  latter,  owinjj  to  a  limestone 

strata  not  yet  worn  away,  is  one  foot  hi>;her, 

by  which  it  is  reasonably  concluded  that  at 

one  time  nearly  all  the  flow  was  towards  the 

.American  side,    because  the   discharge  over 

the  western  fall  is  not  now  so  great  as  that 

towards  the  Canada  side.      This  tremendous 

flood  of   watei->   is  from  Lake   Krie  through 

Niagara    Rive;  into  Lake  Ontario,   and  the 

retroiire.ssion  of  the  cataract,  caused  bv  the 
THE  LOOKOUT,  ON   THH   ROAD  TO  H.DMHK.      ^^^^-^^^   „(    j,,,.    H.nestoue   ledge,   inclines    "'^'^^    B^UFF,  NEAR   RED  WIN.i.  .MINNESOTA. 

geologists  to  the  opinion  that  the  flow  has  continued  for  a  period  of  not  less  than  thirty-seven  thousand  years.  The  width  of  Niagara 
River  at  the  falls  is  forty-five  hundred  feet,  of  which  American  Falls  occui)ies  eleven  hundred  feet,  Cioat  Island  fourteen  hundred  feet,  and 
Horseshoe  I'alls  two  thousand  feet,  though  the  deep  curve  in  the  latter,  whence  its  name  is  derived,  uakes  the  line  of  f.dl  more  than  three 
thousand  feet.  It  has  been  estiu.aUd  lli.t  the  discharge  exceeds  one  billion  gallons  of  water  every  twelve  hours,  and  that  the  force  thus 
<levelope(l  is  equal  to  .something  more  than  one  million  horse-power. 

The  landscajie  on  cither  side  of  the  falls  has  little  of  the  picturesque  or  tunudtuous  about  it,  being  generally  slightly  rolling,  and 
giving  no  indication  of  enq)tive  disturbance;  so  that  scientists  are  still  searching  for  a  plausible  theory  upon  which  to  base  a  conclusion  as 
to  the  cause  that  jjrodnced  this  sudden  dip  in  the  limestone  formation. 


<      ' 


N 


Hi 


'M 


348 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDKRI.AXUS. 


I  I 


111 


The  astoundint;  power  displayed  by  the  riser  drcip|iiiii^  ii\ei  a  wide  and  lofty  ledj;e  is  searcely  more  hewilderiiij;  tliaii  tliat 
exhibited  by  the  Rapids,  whieh  extend  lor  half  a  mile  from  the  point  of  deseeiit,  and  meeting  a  swift  current,  the  fl()o<l  is  lashed  into  a  fury 
that  is  frigh'ftd  to  Iiibold,  ris- 


ing in  the  cei...r  like  hn^e 
beasts  in  combit,  and  tossinjj 
wave-caps  nearly  fifty  feet 
abo\e  the  surface.  At  times 
the  spray  rises  in  snch  elonds 
as  to  comjiletely  obscure  the 
falls,  and  borne  some  distance 
by  the  winds  is  condensed,  and 
a  Uniii-continned  rain  follows, 
which  renders  a  considerable 
stay  in  the  nei.y;hborhood  some- 
what disa>;reeable. 

While  an  admirable  view 
of  the  falls  may  bi-  obtained 
from  many  points  of  observa- 
tion on  the  bridge,  or  alon^' 
both  shores,  the  j^reatest  inter- 
est attaches  tt)  a  visit  to  the 
noisy  caverns  that  are  bi-hind 
the  dcscendinjf  flood.  These 
may  be  reached  by  means  of 
spiral  stairways  built  for  the 
pnrpo.se,  bnt  the  visitor  ninst 
l>rc])are  for  the  trip  by  invest- 
ing; himself  in  a  suit  of  oil-skin, 
and  for  awhile  nnist  assume  the 
character  of  an  amphibian.  .\t 
the  bottom  of  the  deep  descent 
are  stones  in  ).c''C'it  confnsion, 
over  which  we  nmst  scraml)le 
to  reach  the  Cave-of-the-Winds, 
a  watery  }.;rotto  indeed,  in 
which  the  air  is  aj^italed  by 
the  tlmnderinj;  cataract  tliat 
fairly   envelopes    y<in.     The 

scene  here  is  beyond  the  scope  of  pen  or  brnsh,  for  these  appeal  onlv  to  sijjht  and  miderstanding,  while  the  awfnl  presence  conjures  all  the 
senses.     Behind  the  giant  cnrtain  of  waterfall  is  a  greei?i..h  reflection,  weird  in  its  intensity  and  nnnatnralne.ss,  and  to  the  ears  there  comes 


VIEW  or  FORT  SNELl.ING  FROM    IMK   MISSISSIPPI. 


!'    i. 


1 1  •; 


HARDINU  SPRINtJ  ANU  ROCK,  EUREKA  SPRINGS,  ARKANSAS,  ON   ST.   LOUIS   ANU  SAN   I  RANCISCO  RAILROAD. 


I 


'Ill 


III 


III 


35° 

a  iimlTlcd  m.ir  wliiib,  wliiK-  not  jar- 
riii^i  ytl  Slims  \i>  iniNiilr  .mil  pcllc- 
ti:itc  like  till'  (lull  riimlili'  nf  an 
eaitluiiiakc.  'Pliis  tiniiilain  ilis- 
turl)aiii'c,  wliii'li  conluses  with 
stranj;e  noise,  is  iiitiiisififd  l)y  a 
wind  that  is  here  created  l>y  what  ap- 
pears to  he  some  mysterious  ayeney; 
and  other  curious  thiuys  are  noted 
that  su^;^H>t  to  the  ima),'inali\e  mind 
a  region  of  the  supernatural,  where 
indistinct  voices  warn  an<l  then  in- 
vite, lint  are  ahva\s  elamorous,  like 
a  crowd  ot  bedlamites. 

Helow  the  falls  the  river  narrows 
to  ci);ht  hundred  feet,  between  pre- 
cipitous walls,  which  add  swiftness  to 
the  current,  and  three  miles  from 
Horseshoe  I'allsthe  impetuous  stream 
strikes  a  point  of  ])iojeetin>;  land  in 
such  a  manner  th.it  a  terrible  whirl- 
Ijool  is  created,  cajiable  of  suckinj; 
down  a  larj^e  steamboat.  JU- means 
of  a  i.ir,  which  is  controlled  by  :i 
cable,  visitors  m.iy  ride  down  the 
very  steeji  incline  to  the  e(l;,'e  of 
Whirlpool  Rapids  and  view  in  safety 
the  awful,  niad-lashinjj  waters, 
swirling  with  extraordinary  rajiidity 
and  throwinjj  liij,'h  the  tousled  heads 
of  ra\eninj.j  waves,  which  appear  to 
he  lu>tin<;  for  victims  and  bellowinj,' 
for  \en;^'eance.  It  is  j^ratifyinj;  to 
know  that  the  almost  incomputable 
power  of  Xiaf;ara  is  soon  to  be  trans- 
mitted, thron.i,di  the  jj^eneration  of 
electricity,  t(j  mills  and  maehinerv, 
and  thus  utilized  to  the  honor  of 
human  Kciitis  as  well  as  to  the  glorv 
of  God. 


AMHRIC.VS  WUNDHRLANDS. 


A.VtEIJICAN   lAl.l.S,   VIHVVHl)  I  KOM  (iOAT  ISLAND 


< 
a. 
< 

C 


w 


II 


'(cij! 


n. 


■fi' 


,;i'i. 


Ml. 


li  ■' 


MA(iAI'\    I  R()Zl-:\, 


smrn 


ill 

nr 


35^ 

Circ;it  chansjcs  (icciirrinj;  in  Xi.i.!:;ar:i  I'alls, 
which  tlioui^h  slow  ami  RiiiilU-nt,  arc  no  less 
certain  to  destroy  the  j^randenr  of  that  ineoni- 
paiahle  waterfall  some  time  in  the  very  rem<ite 
futnre.  It  is  a  well-tlemonstrated  fact  that 
Xia.yara  River  has  exea\ated  the  ,uori;e 
throu,>;h  whiel;  it  rnns,  and  within  recent 
years  snch  inuneiise  masses  of  the  led^e-sinne 
lia\e  been  detached  hy  the  ^nawinf^  waters 
as  to  cause  an  apiircciahle  recession  of  the 
cataract,  and  a  corri'spondiny;  lens^theninj;  of 
the  ^or,i;c.  It  is  recorded  that  in  li^ix  \crv 
lari^c  frai^ments  of  limestone  were  wrenched 
from  the  snrlace-bed  and  cast  over  Horseshoe 
Falls,  and  another  similar  resnlt  occnrred  in 
l.H."p").  lint  each  year,  and  const.uuh',  the 
erosion  is  ma  'ied,  so  that  Tahle  Rock,  for- 
merly a  strikui;;  feature  of  the  river,  lias  becti 
worn  away  so  completely  that  no  jiresent 
.sii;n  of  it  now  remains.  It  h.is  been  com- 
puted by  Sir  Charles  Lyell  that  tile  averajje 
rate  of  recession  is  about  <nie  foot  annnallv, 
counting;  for  the  past  thousand  years;  but  as 
before  stated,  the  erosive  residts  are  spas- 
modic. There  is  now  ei;;hty  feet  of  luird 
limestone  comi>osiny;  the  snrface-'^oek,  and  it 
will  probably  require  ten  thousand  vears  for 
the  rnshinjT  waters  to  eat  this  awa\  ;  after 
that,  however,  the  we.ir  wi'I  be  rajiid,  and  in 
ci'io'se  of  centuries  the  f.dls  will  h,i\e  disap- 
I)e,ired,  and  only  a  tremendous  ),'"'!s'c  will 
renuiin  in  their  stead.  Manv  wonderful  spec- 
tacles lia\e  taken  ]ilace  at  the  falls,  the  most 
interesting^  of  which  was  the  sencliujj  adrift 
of  a  condennied  hike  vessel,  drawiu.i;  eisjllteen 
feet  of  water,  in  l^i'l',  which  passed  o\er  the 
brink  without  touchiuij  bottom,  and  was 
dashed  •ii  pieces  on  the  rocks  below.  This 
experiment  was  made  to  test  the  depth  of 
water  on  the  brink  of  the  precipice. 


a:\ikrica'S  woxuhrlaxds. 


HI'llJAl    Vi;il.   lALl.S,   MACiAHA. 


AMI'RICAS  WOXDICRI.AXDS.  ;,5;, 

There  is  a  weary  ^anifiKss  to  \hv  ;^H'iRrally  li-wl  or  |irairii.-  sci'iury  wliirli  lies  lntwcni  the  Mississippi  Hlvvv  and  Xiw  Vurk  SlaU',  if 
we  except  the  rather  pleasin.i,'  (li\crsit\-  <if  \\ell-ciiki\ate(l  farms,  prospirmis  towns,  anil  evidenrrs  of  thrill  that  are  e\erywhere  notiecable. 
Hilt  there  is  more  than  the  ^u-atiiess  of  rominerei.il  ami  imhisirial  empire  to  ree(nnmeii(l  Xew  Vorl^  to  the  si.i;ht-seer,  for  some  of  the  most 
eharmni.i,'  seeiurv  to  In-  louml  aiivwiiere  in  the  world  is  within  her  l)orders,  iiiatehin,<r  for  snhlimity  even  the  most  marvelous  view.-,  whieh 
we  have  deserihed.      And  additional   faseinaliim  attaehes  to  many  of  lier  noted   plaees  on   aeronnt  of  the   Indian   names  whieh   ha\e   been 

jealously  presirxed  in  her  ye- 
o-rapln.  The  Mohawk  \'allev 
:s  at  once  a  lo\(.lv  \ale  and  a 
remiiiiler  of  Cooper's  "Leather 
SlorkiuL;  Stories:"  and  .--o  are 
hei-  hinidrid  ri\irs  and  laki'S 
that  laar  tlu-  de^ii,'nations  ln-- 
.-■lowiil  upon  them,  either  In- 
some  ol  lllr  oU't  -  po\\  irfu  1 
trihe.N,  or  whieh  perpetuate  the 
fame  of  tlkir  ,L;reat  ehief>,  the 
shades  of  whom  svem  to  linger 
about  Stueea,  Ca\u.i;a,  ( )ueida, 
()swe:;o,  Cauaudia.L;na,  Chan- 
tauipia,  Kiaika,  Skaneateks, 
o\er  whieh  llu-\  ouee  skimmed 
in  lii^ht  eauots.  The  nananee 
with  whieh  the>e  beantifnl 
waters  are  iuMsted  woidd  draw 
u^  irresistibU'  to  their  shores 
were  there  no  other  attraetions; 
but  to  these  (leli,!;htful  tradi- 
'I  tions  of  a  \anislied  ])eopk'  are 
'!  the  addid  eharms  of  s\  Ivan 
glades,  e\po>in,i;  \istas  of  e\- 
(liiisite  laud.^eaiH',  blue  waters 
dimpled  by  soft  winds,  swift- 
raein^  streams  d  ishin;^-  under 
overarching-  shades,  «nil  wild 
eliasins  that  impris<in  eel-.o  and 


lli:(|ii|.'    I    ill-'.    W  \IIJ\-,   I  ,M  \,    IN    W  INTi;i(. 


exhibit  .some  of  the  most  astounding  results  of  glaeial  aetiou,  .dielli  il  l>y  upheaval,  de])ression  and  erosion.  .'Vfter  pieturiug  the  wonders 
of  N'iagar.i.  '  Here  fore,  two  of  our  parly  made  a  trip  u\er  the  New  \'ork  Central  Line  and  its  eonneetion,  to  ('iene\a,  a  be.uitiful  town 
on  the  MO  Ji  shore  of  .Seneea  Lake,  which  in  many  respects  is  one  of  the  most  rem.irkable  bodies  of  water  in  the  world.  The  lake 
is  about  forts  miles  in  leiigtl-i,  but  it  is  a  mere  strip,  r.nrly  exieeiling  two  miles  in  width,  yet  h.is  the  extraordinary  depth  of  six 
lliiudred  feet,  so  that  it  is  evidentl\-  a  b.isiu  created  1)\-  the  s.nue  con\uls!iui  that  wrought  the  surprising   results  whieh  render  the  (".lens  at 


Il'l. 


I.h 


11 


354 

the  smith  end  famous  beyond  oonip:irison,  as  wil! 
bo  pitstntly  (k'si-rihi-d.  It  is  ]i;irticul;irl\  str:ui;^c 
th.il  >-nch  a  tii  nuudotis  ck'lt  should  ho  made 
\\ith(iut  slidwiui;  a  wider  cMeut  ot  distuihauee, 
though  the  shores  are  a  suecession  of  prouioutories, 
s\vee]iiu<;  baek  in  j^raoeful  liuchdalions  and  well- 
woodec!  slopes,  save  where  industry  has  eonvertcd 
the  hills  into  fruillul  fields. 

The  trip  from  ("leneva  to  Watkins,  whieh 
co\ers  the  extreme  knj;lh  of  the  lake,  is  eomfort- 
ahlv  a"(l  eujoyahly  made  liy  means  of  tine  steamers, 
whieli  land  at  many  intermediate  ])oiuts,  and  yive 
suniuKr  tourists  o])portnnity  for  thoronjjhiv  exani- 
iniuj;  the  towns  and  heauti:  1  banks  .diuij  the  wav. 
Watkius,  which  is  the  ol  tive  plaee  of  all  pleas- 
ure travelers,  luis  its  fee,  oathed  by  Seneca  Lake, 
auil  its  Ir.uI  sh.ided  bv  the  brow  of  Buck  Moinit- 
aiu,  at  whose  b,ise  is  the  main  strett,  ruuuiu;^ 
parallel  therewith.  I'oUowiujj  this  sin  et  a  short 
<listanee,  the  \isitor  reaches  a  l)riil,i;e  t  ..it  .aflords 
p.is.-.i'.;e  o\er  a  small  stream,  and  pinceedin;^  aloiij; 
the  b.uiks  of  this  little  water-course  for  less  than 
half  a  mile,  he  is  suddenly  confronted  bv  .i  ui,issi\e 
and  loft)'  n.itiiral  w.ill  that  jirexeiits  further  pro- 
.ijress.  ,'^t.iir\va\  s,  liowver,  li,ne  been  built,  li\ 
which  we  lUoi'.iUed  to  the  summit  of  this  wouder- 
fii'  maMiury,  .lud  from  that  eminence  siir\e\ed  the 
matchless  scenery  of  W.itkin's  Cileii.  Hut  the  view 
is  interrupted  l)y  iuterveninjj  prccijjices  and  di  nsely 
wiioded  co|)ses.  so  tli.'.t  to  .see  the  ama/iu  ;  wonders 
and  the  licwilderin^j  beauties  of  this  mar\eloii>lv 
diversified  rc<,Mon  a  tour  of  its  nKiii\  .utr.ictions  is 
necessary.  To  do  this  requires  a  p.iir  of  stroni; 
le<,'S  and  <;nod  breath,  for  t!\e  cliiuliin:.,'  is  severely 
taxinj,'.  thouiLjli  owiui;  to  the  subst.iiitial  ami  well 
protected  stairwavs  i-,  never  dangerous. 

I'assiujr  ihrouKh  Clen  .Mph.i,  wdiere  the 
awful  siibl'  of  .1  tremendous  ch.ism  oppresses 
the  vi.sito;  hi.,t\iew,  we  caught  sij;ht  of  Twin 
Falls,  whv    ..   the   waters  pour  down  in  two  <;reat 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


CAVLKN   l..\s(,\|)r.   WMKIN's  <illN,    IN    WINIIK. 


o 


356 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDHRLAXDS. 


I   'I: 


^V 


ill, 

mr, 
tt 

iiii 


sluices  and  become  wedded  in  a  s\vi:lin,i;  pool  lliat  pours  out  the  overflow  tlirou<;li  a  canon  wiiose  walls  luive  been  scarified  by  the  teeth  of 

centuries.      Below  the  falls  is  Whirlpool  C.orge,  an  amphitheater  that  is  striated  and  terraced  into  forms  so  variable  as  to  please  every 

conceit  and  yet  arouse  amaxe- 

meut.     The  stream  dashes  into 

this  capricious  auditorium  at  a 

maddenint;  jiace,  Init  encounters 

vesi-.tance  in  llie  curvini;  walls, 

and  is  tlms  thrown  iiUo  a  rajiid, 

whirlins;  movement  like  a  m;el- 

>lrom;    and    this    rc.t.UA    actinu 

ol     the    waters    has    worn     llie 

hait-encirclinj;  walls  into  many 

sin,L;nl,iv,   thon,L;h   usualK'   s\  uv- 

nietrical  shapes. 

Ciiuibinji  out  of  Whirlpool 
( lortje  and  movini;  suiuhward  a 
sluirt  distance  alur.^;  a  r.iiied 
led,t;e,  we  ccinie  in  sij^llt  of 
I'eek-a-boo  l-'.dl.--,  .1  bianlifnl 
sheet  ot  \\,Uer  plnn;;ini;  o\er  a 
precipice  fifty  feet  hi.^h,  and 
scatteriui,'  its  s;i:  ,;-  alony;  the 
walls  that  coi'f;,L  its  descent, 
for  the  chasu  is  \'erv  narrow 
here,  and  char.uinv;  for  its  s\l- 
vau  wtirdni-^s.  The  cliffs  aiv 
\ery  ])ictnres  in  stone,  ri>in.i;  in 
tiers  and  car\ed  into  fantastic 
forms,  while  the  overhanyir 
trees,  graceful  feins  ami  \cl\i' 
mosses  make  the  place  a  Imwu 
ill  which  fairies  iiii<,dit  delij,'ht 
to  dwell. 

T1ioUl;1i  both  Watkins  and 
Hav.iua  ('.lens  are  j^eins  of  n.it- 
nre  in  summer-time,  their  rarest 
robes  of  beantv  are  worn  in 
winter,  when  the  Ice  Kin<r  takes  WATKIN'S  CASCAUI-;   [  ROZEN. 

them  in  his  embrace  and  bejewels  them  with  crystals  more  exquisite  than  ever  graced  a  royal  bride.     For  the  winter  views  which  are  here 
jiresented  we  are  indebted  to  other  pliotoyrapher<,  as  we  are  also  for  the  fro.st  jiictures  of  the  Lake  Superior  coast,  as  our  visit  was  made  in 


GIANT'S  GORGE,   IN  CHATHAl'(  .AY  CHASM. 


WHIRLPOOL  i.OROE,  WATKIN'S  (iLEN. 


35S 


AMKRICA'S  WON'DKR LANDS. 


;M 


H'li, 
'I 


lil: 


111' 


I, 


it" 

■II : 


tl'e  suniitier-tiiiK'.  Kxamples  of  tlif  sublimi'  iiKii^iiifi- 
I'l'iicc,  tlif  ili\  iiK-liki.'  ciiiliillisliiiuiit  (if  Welkin's  Cikii, 
wIkmi  Uk-  lips  of  wiiiUT  h:\w  kisM-d  tlu-  iicii.--\  w  ,iti-rf.ills 
iiilo  fid/iii  sik'iK-<.\  :ii(.-  si'i'ii  in  tku  ilhistriitikins  of  Ciivcni 
Cascade,  and  Hcftor  Ivills,  and  Walkin's  Cascade,  wlicrc 
the  frost-si>iites  and  the  little  cliildren  of  the  snow  hide 
beneath  ojialesccnt  icicles  and  liijlit  the  lani]i  of  joy  in 
grollues  ill, It  o]un  toward  the  voiceless  j^'orjjc. 

iMirlhcr  lip  the  cli.isin,  where  the  hroKcn  fronts  of 
vertical  walls  hej^iii,  is  a  (|iiiet  retreat  known  as  the 
Coniieil  Chaniliei ,  spanned  by  a  prett\'  bridge  that  is  hiinj; 
up<Jii  op])osite  led,L;cs  and  conducts  to  a  passage  that  runs 
alon.y;  a  shell,  then  down  a  st.iirs  to  a  path  th.it  Icids 
from  the  w, iter's  eih^e  to  the  town.  The  w,dls  that  en- 
close this  slrip  of  ri\-er  are  exceedingly  heaiitifiil,  built 
up  as  they  are  with  lliiu  l,i\ers,  of  a  lew  inches'  thickness, 
each  sir.ita  beinjj;  \ei\  dislinct.  and  ihe  f.ice  of  the  cliffs 
wron.L;lil  into  lo\ei\  shape-,  with  shell's  here  and  tlieie  .-'.s 
if  inviliii^'  lo\eis  lo  seek  llieni  for  ihe  deli>;htfnl  seclusion 
which  tliev  offer.  The  jjleii  is  about  three  miles  in  leii<^th, 
and  ihe  wads  frcqnenllv  three  hundred  feet  in  heij^ht, 
with  eiioiii^h  variableness  in  ihe  scenery  lo  make  it  a 
source  of  nnwrarv  injj  adiniralioii. 

Three  miles  .south  of  W'alkin's  (lien,  and  properlv  a 
contiini.ilioii,  f^r  there  is  re, illy  a  very  brief  inlerriiption 
in  the  rin^i;ed  cluir.uler  of  the  \allev,  is  Ifa\aiia  ("den, 
<|nile  .IS  laiiicpiis  as  its  adjacent  brother.  The  cliffs  here 
are  scarcely  so  xertieal,  but  the  {{eiieral  formation  is 
practicallx  the  same,  ami  similar  means  are  provided  for 
viewinij  its  wonders  to  adv.intai;e.  Hrid  i!  \'eil  1-alls  is 
IIa\a!i,rs  most  allMi;:t,r  object,  .iiid  well  do  thev  r^p.r- 
the  tourist  for  Iks  \ '-it  The  w.iler  at  this  iioint  falls 
thirty  feet  down  a  \<  ly  sleep  slojie  in  a  ,freat  column  ih.it, 
contracted  at  the  plunye,  spre.ids  as  it  flows  over  a  suc- 
cession of  terraces  and  d.ishes  into  the  deep  stream  below 
with   sullen   roar. 

I'orll.uid  C.isi.ide  is  another  charinin^r  fall,  biit  thi' 
chasm  hciiii^-  wider  at  tliis  point  and  broken  h\'  mam 
shelves,  the  water  flows  with  less  tiirlnJlt'UH'i  illllliyji  ijie 
cascades  are  made  niuie  lieailtifal  bv  spttMlliHH   I'"')  llllll, 


('I  MM!  AM  I   I    \^i    Mil,,    II  W  \N  \   <,\V\, 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


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11    I 


I'l. 


362 


AMHRICA'S  WONDKRI.ANDS. 


At    this    ]iiiint    sU'.iiiui 


t.ikiii   I'di    a  lidf 


tin-  'l'lioii>. 111(1    Islands   li>   ( >i:ilcii 


iiivx,    a   til]) 


tnoii'  cliariiiiiij;  than  our  unitiiilnaiici'  m    low's  liist 


dri; 


Tl 


part  111    llio  ri\ir  i^ 


1.1  ok 


111  into  main' 


channels  lliat   niiaiKkr  llironj^li  avfimts  worn  in  llu- 


granite    which    (.•onliiRs    its    course. 


The    Thousand 


Islands  is  no  niisiionier,  tor  tliev  seem  to  he  heymid 
nninlier,  scattered  like  a  in\  riail  ol  emer.ilds,  with 
deep  water  iKtwetii,  and  \  et  so  close  to.^ether  that 
they  may  almost  reach  hands  across  the  lireach.  I\\ery 
islet  is  a  dome  of  rock,  j;roniid  into  s\  mmelricil  shaj.e 
hy  (glacial  action  lonj^  ajjo,  then  covered  hy  a  sediment 
from  the  river  snlTicient  to  support  a  profuse  veijeta- 
lioii.  The  Canada  i>iiie  is  cons]iicnons,  liftinjf  its 
scrai^ijy  head  to  a  jjreal  liei>;ht,  and  ])ointin);  its  stout 


1. 
bru 


les  in  e\ery   direction,  a  ^tately  I'lj^iire  aniony;  the 


sliw 1  th.it  siirroirids  it. 

M.iiiv  of  the  isl.inds  are 


littl 


■reen  dots 


scarcely  lar<j;e  eium>;h  for  a  fairy's  bower,  while  others 
are  of  coiisi<leral>le  size,  occupied  by  lovelv  \illas,  the 
resort  of  those  wealthy  enoii:.,'h  to  own  beantifnl  summer 
lion>es  wlure  the  air  is  fr.itjr.int  with  sweetest  odors. 


ami  the  K'""' 


st  fi>h 


invite  the  enthusiastic  aiii: 


Dep.irliiii;  from  ( )L;(leii-.liiuv. 


if  our  party 


proceeded  to  .Montreal,   b 


.i\-  of  ( )tta\v.i,    to    phnto- 


Kiap 


aiiaila  scenerv   111    the    viciiiitv 


.f   the 


cities,  while  the  other 


ti>ok  ir 


for  Chate.iiij'av,  each 


mai)i)iii^  out  for  himself  the  work  to  be  done  in  the 
rc^jions  which  he  h.id  chosen  to  jiictnre.  Cli,iteaiii;av 
is  ill  the  extreme  northeastern  part  of  New  York  ami 
about  thirty  miles  from  I.aKe  Chamiilaiii.  A  river  of 
the  .same  name  flows  by  the  place  and  through  some 
scenery  which  is  .iliin'st  matchless  in  marvelous  j.;raiid- 
enr,  probably  excellinj^  in  extr.iordinary  cle,i\.i;;e  that 
f-nind  in  Watkin's  and  Havana  ("ileiis.  ("li.iiit  (lorj^e  is 
one  of  the  first  tremendous  rents  which  we  observe 
in  the  chasms  t)f  Chateanjjay  Ri\er,  but  several  other 


])rccipitonsly  w 


died 


canons  occur    Ik  t ween  that  ])oint 


Chatean^'av  Lake,  twentv 


the  Adirondack    .Mount, 


nil    rej,'ion 


■s    bcl 
t>>;iiis 


ow,   w  lierc 
ith    its 


CHASM. 


Si 

O 

UJ 

z 
z" 

LU 

-J 

O 

< 
z 

> 
< 

X 

-1 
-1 
< 
u. 


364 


AMlvRlCA'S  WONDI-RLANDS. 


I'l' 


II     I 

tin 


wildiriuss  of  uiUaniablf  savajjtTy,  as  wild  imw  ns  wlkii  its  iu;^,i;iil  siilitiitlis  wcu'  first  distmbcd  liy  all  iiuadiiijj;  Iiulian  sofkiiiK  llio  jjaine 
that  tluri-  aliouiuK-d.  'I'liis  daiksnine  li  miit  «(  ii.itmi-  is  cK  It  liy  tin-  S.ii.iiiac-,  Kai|iii.-ttc,  lioiiiut  and  Ausahlc  kivirs,  and  in  tliisi-  ^;lo()iiiy 
recesses  wIkiuc  tin-  da\  is  dis]>i!Kil  arc  tlii'  lake  sunnis  of  ili.-  iiolilo  IlndMin. 

Crii»inj;  oxer  to  Lake  Cliani|)l  lin,  wo  took  a  l)il,i\\a:o  and  llndson  Railroad  tiaiii  at  l'latt>lmri;ll  and  rode  down  to  Port  Kent  and 
tlicncc  visited  Ansable  Cliasiii  near-by.  Indian  I'ass  is  al>o  in  the  same  \ieinit\.  The  scenery  is  a  repetition  o(  that  in  Walkin's  Glen, 
with  the  added  interest  of  a 
mole  eoiisiderahle  stnaiii,  njioii 
which  hoatinjj;  is  a  royal  ideas- 
ure.  The  freshness  which 
descri]>tion  li\  another  witer 
may  furnish  is  my  i\cu>e  '  ;r 
ititrotliiciii)^  the  following:  Iroiu 
the  jHii  of  Alfred  1!.  Street: 

"At  Noilh  l-'.lba  we  crosseil 
a  lirid.L;e  win  re  the  Aii>alile 
comes  windiii:^  down,  and  then 
followed  its  banks  to  the  north- 
ea-it,  with  tliick  woods  contin- 
ually around  iis,  and  the  little 
river  shooiin;,;  dart-- of  li^ht  at 
us  thrun,i;h  the  leavi  s.  At 
lentil',  a  broad  snuimil,  rising; 
to  a  taller  one,  bioke  abo\i-  the 
folia;^e  at  our  riyht,  and  at  the 
same  time  a  i^is^antic  mass  of 
rock  and  forest  saluted  us,  and 
we  stood  before  the  j;iant  [lor- 
tals  of  the  X.uch.  As  we 
entered,  the  |)ass  suddenly 
shrank,  jnissiu^  the  ri\er  into 
a  deep  and  n.irrow  stream.  It 
was  a  ch.isiii  clo\eii  boldly 
lhrou,y;h  \Vhite-l'"ace,  so  th.it  on 
e.ich  side  towere<l  the  mountain 
escarpment;    on    the    left,    the 

ranj,'e  rose  in  still  sublimer  altitude,  with  k"'"'  preci])ic  s,  like  a  majestic  wall  or  a  line  of  palisades,  climbiiiK  sheer  from  the  half-way 
forest  upward.  The  crowded  rows  of  pines  alonjr  the  broken  aii<l  w.iv>-  crest  were  diininislie<l  to  a  mere  fringe.  .Vs  we  rowed  slowly 
throuj>;h  the  still  narrowiii!'  f;orj,'e,  the  mountains  soared  hi),dier  and  hi^'her,  as  if  to  scale  the  clouds,  prcsenlinfj;  truly  a  terrific  aspect.  I 
shrank  within  myself,  and  ai)peared  to  <lwindle  beneath  it.  Soincthiiifi;  akin  to  vlread  pervaded  the  scene.  The  inouiitains  appeared  to  be 
knitting  their  brows  into  thn'atening  frowns  at  our  daring  intrusion  into  the  solitudes.     Nothing  .seemed  native  to  the  awful  landscape  but 


ElBOW   PALLS,   AUSABLE  CHASM. 


itt 


,1 


I'l. 


III 


If 


i|! 


V 

I 


li 


VIEW  OF  THd  THOUSAND  ISLANDS  IN  ST.  LAWRENCE  RIVER. 


366 


AMHRICA'S  WON D1;R LANDS. 


'  I 


[t' 


!  I 


■iM 


I, Ilk    AiisiliU'  (l.isliid   ihiw.ikI   with   li,).irsf,  fDivliiMliiiK 


tlu-   pliiiij^i'  111   tin-  tomiit    .mil   tlu-  si-rc.iiu  nf  tin-  i.ii;li  .      lii  low,  :il   mir   lilt,  tlic 
luuriiiiirs,  in  li.miioiiy  with  tlu-  loiitliiuss  iiiul  wililiu  ^^ut  tlu->i>ot." 

I'miii  thi'  ti"])  tif  Miiuiit  M.il(.\,  uMiliMikiii^;  Iinliaii  I'.i»,  tlir  viiw  is  insiiiiiiiy;  in  its  t\|>;insi\i'  and  tiniiiiltoiis  j;i;in(loni.  'I'ow.uds 
the  sontliiMst  j^kains  tlu-  wliitr  inst  ..f  l(,.u.is  Mcunt.iin,  ami  rising;  Ih-xohiI  is  tlu-  kaniiiK  towti-liki-  |)iak  of  tlii'  Dial,  wliiih  |ia\s  its 
ohc-isana-  to  l)i\'s  i'lak,  that  fimii  alar  ixliihits  tin-  loim  ol'  a  (.loiu-hin;,'  lion.  " 'Phincc  slaK;,'iT  the  wilil,  s.i\  i^e  and  spliuttn-d  tops  o( 
Ootiiic  Mount. lin,  ,it  tlu-  I.owi-i 
Ans.ihle  I'ond,  linking;  tliilll- 
st'lvi'S  on  tlu-  i-.ist  with  I  ho 
Nooii-M.irk  ,ind  Ko^-i-r's  Mount- 
ains, th.il  w.iti-'i  o\i-r  Kii-iu-'s 
ValK'V.  'i'o  tlu-  iioiilk-.ist  rise 
the  Ivlninnds  I'oiiil  .'suiniiiits — - 
the  mount. nn-]iii-iure  i-losul  liy 
the  sli.ii])  i-usi  ol  old  Whiti- 
I'lice,  the  st.iti-U  oiitiKjst  y-'i  tl;c 
Adiioiul.uk>." 

.-\  trip  thronjjli  AiisaMe 
Chasm  is  one  ol  nnspe.ik.ilile 
deli^'ht  ami  iniaiituiini;  sur- 
prises. J  list  above  the  point 
where  the  ehasiii  lieijiiis  there 
is  an  old  mill,  oiue  run  1>\  a 
wheel  (lri\en  li\-  a  slniee  enii- 
neeted  with  tlu-  riwr,  hut  stt-.;ni 
ha.s  superseded  this  n.itur.il 
power  and  detracted  somewhat 
from  the  intenst  whieh  would 
otllerwisi-  invest  the  pi. lie. 
The  (i.ini  is  still  tlu-re,  how- 
ever, and  over  its  iirink  the 
water  flows  in  softest  measun  s, 
to  .strike  the  roeky  shelves  ln- 
low,  where  it  boils  and  ))rawls 
in  confused  dismeinlieniunt  un- 
til joined  a<,'ain  in  an  nnhrokeii 

stream.  The  banks  rise  rapidly,  while  the  river  draws  dee])er  into  its  bed,  nntil  presently  makinjj  a  leap  at  fliant  Talks  it  pluHRes  into  a 
great  Rorge  whose  walls  have  been  eaten  by  the  floods  and.iee  of  centuries.  Hut  it  is  by  a  succession  of  falls  and  cataracts  that  tiie  stream 
reaches  its  greatest  depression,  which  is  known  as  the  llrand  Flnn;e.  Hlbow  Falls  .scarcely  deserve  to  be  dignified  by  .so  hirge  a  title,  as 
they  are  rapids  rather  than  falls;  but  for  beanty  tliey  are  almost  incomparable,  and  afford  an  opiwrtunity  for  the  painter's  bnish  as  great  a.s 
mav  be  found  anvv\'here  in  the  .Adirondacks. 


rut   SU.W.VIIT  Ol-   WHITEI-ACE   .MOUNTAIN. 


« 

■    ' 

^..  _  .... 

i            ^ 

J 

t   . 

^■'    ""^ 

^^ 

^U-c?    ^ 

'*T_^P9H9Q|fl^ 

• 

'^ 

J 

^         «  1     ii 

fsm 

3 

k 

'     ■".-'•V-    ■                             .       ,-, 

Ai? 

y^;"  ^J!^^^^^ 

* 

1   _  1 

..^^Bii  !^^^!S 

L      x!!'^**'****^*:-    — -««t^*-.-.. 

'  ~~ 

Pfe:. 

r 

I 

I 


AUSABI  K   HIVhR,   NtAK    IHI:   HtAb  0|-    1 HH   CHASM. 


368 


.\mi;ric.\'S  \\oni>i;ri,.\M)S. 


h. 


i.r' 


! 


III 

.in 


I'll' 


T'k'  ili.isiii  i.ipidlv  (Ui|Hns  .iiiil  ii.innu--  liilmv 
Klhow  I'.iU'.,  .mil  linniilis  .1  wild  yotoi-  ,,t  iiitiii-.iu> 
Illl^;luim>^  .11  .1  iM.iiit  i-.illnl  llu  (tviii.  'I'lu-  w.ilU  .iiv 
lilU'il  M>  liii;li  .iluiM.'  till-  slH  nil,  wilii  tluir  iTi'il.iliil 
front!*  (.xhiliiliiiu  -n  iii.in\  iiuaiutl)  (li>liirtiil  and  tiTiil)ly 


HBi'^   ^ 

•  « , 

/'>•* 

^Hr       ^. 

'^    C'      ^ 

^'w 

^^m     ,      i:;)^ 

^  ^JK^^fe/  ' 

■'^ 

'                    '':.'%r^^ 

m 

•■-'M 

-^ 

F 

"^^^^^'"^                          ...a^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H 

^ 

♦ .'  X 

KAATEI'SKII.I.    l-Al.l.S.   CATSKII  I.   MOl'NTAINS. 


M'SARi  i:  (  iiA'^M,  I'.iidw  rill-:  ovhn. 


37^' 


AMl'UICA'S  \\()\l)i:kI..\\lJS. 


I  r 


I'' 


llfl 

nil 


ja^;j;i'il  ]iinjiitiniis  til. It  lllf  t  fill  I  i-.  iiid-t  )ii\s  ildi  liii)^,  wliilr  in  ]il.ut>i  llii\  .ili'  (iiijinsid  \\it|i  dnh  ;(  fiw  fiit  lu'twriMl,  j;i\illj;  ti)  tlu-  )iiiHSilv;c 
tlu' ip]i]itr>»iuii  111  .1  inisoii.  Ilill  ('.III'  ii  iiDt  iii,i|>pin|Mi.ilrly  n.iiiu 'I,  Ihimmm'  it  is  in  a  w.i\'  lii;^irt  witli  iliniiiiltirs  that  umiUt  lii>atin;.j 
ilanyiioiis.  'I'lu-  ri\iT  is  Ikti'  y;HMtl\  iciiii|iii  smiI,  Iml  tin-  i-liaiiiii'l  is  not  MilTiiiriitlx  ilnp  ti)  liiilr  tlu'  sliar|)-|Kpiiiti(l  links  that  .s|ilil  tlu- 
^tnaiii  ami  iciiuitt  it  into  a  rapiil,  Iml  li\'  iiuaiis  of  stairs  this  iiitrii'ii]itt'il  watir-way  ina\  lie  |iassicl,  anil  hilow  arc  iKiatx  in  which 
till'  )ilia>anl  pa-^aj^r  may  he  i-iiiitiiiiifil  tliruiiuli  Ciraiul  I'Miiinc.  Tliis  is  tin-  lovi'liist  part  iif  the  chasm,  the  most  pictiircsijiic  section  of  this 
wiMidirfnl  ri\cr,  snUlimc  in  its 
Hianili  iir,  \i  I  i(l\  Ilic  in  its  pDilic 
ami  ilrianiy  hiaiitv,  wluri'  the 
t  tn  ails  mi^^lit  haw  sinirtcil  while 
Piaiia  |iui>iuil  tlu-  <Iccr  that 
have  (or  ayi  s  nia<lc  these  inonnt- 
aia  fastnis-es  tluir  favorite 
haunts,  for 

"Iliri-  wrrr  lii-r  (tri-hanls,  walU-tl  i»ti 

lAt-ry  Mill', 
T»>  Iawli't4H  iti  halls  all  ari'fss  clftiif«!." 

I'roin  A  iisaMe  station, 
which  ni.i\  In-  rr  uhld  liy  rail, 
a  fiMil  Kails  >c.iithwar(l  throiij;li 
AusaMe  l"oik>,  liy  White-l'ac  c 
Mi'UMlain,  and  ihciue  into  llii- 
Very  heait  of  the  Adirond  iek>. 
This  rcntarkalile  tract  lies  |irin- 
i  ipally  lutuiiii  Lakes  Cham- 
plain  and  (iturye,  ami  eii\irs 
an  area  of  lu  irly  ."i,(l(i(>  .sipiare 
mills,  with  OIK-  aim  reachin^j 
noilhwaid  to  the  St.  Lawrence 
ami  another  sonlluvard  a.s  far 
as  Sarato;.'a.  Within  this  di--- 
trict  there  are  s.iiil  to  he  no  less 
than  .">i'ii  mountain  peaks, 
several  of  which  are  /i.IMM)  ffct 
hij;h,  measured  above  the  .sea 
level,    and    as   many    a.s    1,<HI() 

lakes.     ( )winjf  to  the  nigjjedness  of  the  country,  its  dense  forests,  nnmerons  water-ways  and  prodijrions  chasms,  the  rejjion  was  a  compara- 
tively iiiiex])lore(l  wilderncs.s  forty  years  a);o,  anil  until  its  vast  lumber  interest  attracted  the  attention  of  capitalists. 

Some  of  the  loftiest  peaks  are  MotiiUs  Morris,  .M,ircy,\Vhite-I".ice,  Seward,  I'haroah,  Di.x  and  .Snowy  Moinitaiii,  and  of  the  lakes  there 
are  Tupper,  Saranac,  Loiifj,  Avalaiuhe,  Clear,  Henderson,  Raiiuetle,  Xewcomli,  Pleasant,  and  many  others  scarcely  less  in  si/e  and  famous 
for  the  Kame-fish  that  swann  in  their  transparent  waters.     .Xs  a  hunting-ground  the  Great  North  Wilderness,  as  it  is  often  called,  is  probably 


Bociiis  i*ivi:i<  lAiis,  AijiRONr>\r.KS. 


u 
u 
< 
a 
y. 
O 

a 

< 


a. 


AMERICA'S  WOXUKRLAXDS. 


,|l.n 


iiri' 

f  I'll ■ 


the  best  now  tn  In-  f  niiid  anywlu-iv  in  the  I'nilid  Sl.ilis,  alxniiuliiij,'  as  it  does  in  deer,  hear,  panther,  wolf,  wolverene,  and  immense  numbers 
of  smaller  j;amc,  so  that  whether  lost  or  found,  a  man  with  a  loaded  gnn  need  ne\er  ^o  hnn,i;ry  in  the  Adirondaeks. 

It  is  not  surprising  that  a   region   noted   for  its   mountains,   lakes  and  tlense  forests,  shoidd  abound  with  features  magnificeutly 
picturestiue;    and    those    who 
visit  the  Adirondaeks  in  seareh 

of  the  wililest  beauties  of  nature    |  i 

will  not  make  the  trip  in  vain. 
It  is  the  Switzerland  of  Anieriea, 
equaling;  the  best  seeuery  of 
that  eouiury,  and  exeeeding  it 
in  some  respeets,  notably  its 
intrieale  chain  of  lakes,  its 
daniing  ehasnis,  and  the  soli-  !| 
tudes  of  its  (K-]i  wildernesses, 
so  tangle<l  and  intricate  that 
more  than  two-thirds  remain 
\  et  to  be  explored.  Xiglll 
11  these  fastnesses  is  inexpres- 
>ibl;.  diiliful  and  at  times  fearful. 
The  lUack  b'orot  of  ( 'Fermauy 
is  not  nearly  .so  lonely,  nor  is 
the  Hroeken  .so  ominous  with 
its  coll  issal  specter  as  the  motnit- 
aiii  .summits  of  the  .\dirondacks, 
clothed  with  ever<.;reens  and 
groves  of  birch,  majile,  beech, 
ash  and  ced.ir,  in  which  the 
bear,  wolf  and  wild-eat  have 
their  lairs.  In  these  wild  seclu- 
sions, the  recesses  of  dark 
valleys  and  the  dreary  isolation 
of  .so.iring  peaks,  darkne.ss  is 
enthroned  and  veiled  by  sh.id- 
ows,  amid  which  savage  animals 
and  dusky  night-birds  hold  their 
carnivals.  The  catamount  sets 
up  a  chilb'ng  wail  tliat  brings 

response  from  tlie  deep-voiced  loon  that  keeps  his  lonely  watch  on  a  lake  far  below;  then  across  a  stretch  of  deep  wood  falls  the  hooting 
echoof  a  solemn  owl, who.se  compl. linings  excite  comlolenieiit  of  wiiip-i)oor-will  and  katydid,  and  the  chorus  thus  begun  is  taken  up  and  joined 
in  by  a  thousand  whimpering,  screeching,  strident  and  wailing  things  that  make  the  lonesome  forest  their  assembling  place. 


ADIRONDACK   1  ODGE   AM)  CLEAR   LAKE. 


*'''^'^, 


:**%^i 


I! 


r  !.i; 


WnST  POINT,  l-ROM  BAlil.K'S  WHST. 


i;ii 


111' 


374 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


Rtit  when  the  sun  is  above  the  mountains  and  setting  the  landscape  ajjlow  with  cheerful  beams,  these  same  fastnesses  are  a  realm  of 
Tonicntic  delight,  for  every  peak  is  reflected  in  some  lovely  lake,  while  waterfalls  appear  to  be  pouring  out  of  the  sky  and  go  chasing  down 
the  verdant  slopes  plaving  high-spy  among  the  coverts  and  making  the  woods  musical  with  their  laughter.  Near  Ausable  Ponds,  guarded 
by  Mount  Marcv,  are  the  beautiful  Rainbow  Falls,  a  very  flood  of  opals,  .so  irridescent  does  it  appear  when  its  waters  catch  the  .sunbeams. 
And  near  Tupper  Lake  are  the  Hogg's  River  Falls,  or  cascades,  that  make  the  surrounding  fore.st  resound  with  tlieir  roaring,  for  they  discharge 
an  immense  flood  over  a  rock-infested  course,  and  swell  into  a  river  a  mile  below. 

i'ear  the  western  margin  of  the  .'\dirondacks  is  Long  Lake,  narrow  as  a  river  and  many  miles  in  length,  but  so  still  and  crystalline 
that  the  lordly  lake-trout  may  be  seen 
sporti  ;g  in  its  deepest  water,  as  if  chal- 
lenging an  angler.  Its  outlet  is  by  way 
of  a  stream  that  flows  by  Owl's  Head 
and  into  Forked  Lake.  Between  these 
points  is  Huttennilk  Falls,  stately  and 
impetuous,  but  symmetrical  and  rhyth- 
mic, as  it  courses  over  gentle  terraces  and 
drops,  step  by  step,  into  the  rapids  which 
crowd  from  shore  to  shore  and  keep  the 
stream  in  a  state  of  constant  agitation. 
Northeast  of  Huttermilk  Falls  is 
-Vdirondack  station,  on  Hender'^on  Lake, 
which  is  the  central  point  of  this  whole 
mountain  region,  and  a  place  where 
tourists  are  usually  found  in  large  num- 
bers. Near  tlie  north  end  of  the  lake  is 
Wall-I'ace  Mountain,  commanding  an 
extensive  view,  and  midway  is  Indian 
Pass,  which  :s  a  triiueiulous  cliasn; 
through  what  is  kr.owu  as  the  Dismal 
Wilderness.  Notwithstanding  the  large 
number  of  visitors  who  annually  summer 
in  the  vicinity,  so  dense  is  the  forest  a:ul 
juuglc-growlh  that  surrounds  the  Pass, 
and  so  inaccessible  the  deepest  portions 
of  the  gorge,  that  very  few  explorers  have  succeeded  in  making  their  way  through  it,  and  no  one  is  sufficiently  familiar  with  the  region  to 
act  as  a  com|)elent  guide.  It  has  been  ascertained,  hcjwever,  that  within  the  Pass,  which  is  intersected  by  .several  streams,  are  springs 
which  are  the  source  of  .\nsable  River,  which,  emptying  into  Chami)lain,  fjuds  an  outlet  into  the  Atlantic  by  way  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and 
also  t .'  the  Hudson,  whose  drainage  is  in  the  opposite  direction;  and  yet  .so  close  are  these  si)rings  that  it  is  possible  to  drink  from  each 
without  shifting  one's  position.  In  this  vicinity  is  Gill  Brook,  which  is  picturesquely  broken  by  Surprise  Falls,  composed  of  a 
succession  of  shar]i  leaps  over  limestone  ledges,  but  so  narrow  that  the  forest  trees  form  a  perfect  canopy  above,  excluding  a  sight  of  both 
river  and  falls  until  the  visitor  approaches  within  a  frw  feet  of  the  stream.     But  the  entire  region  so  abounds  with  lakes,  mountains,  gorges. 


RAINBOW    FALLS   IN   WINIHR,    ADIKONDACKS. 


)  ., 


;HE   HUDSON   iNARROVVS,   NtAK   PbtKSKILL. 


.' 


,  1> 
ll 


'  !■ 
ill, 


•III 


376  AMHRICA'S  WUNDKRLANDS. 

waterfalls  and  cataracts  that  to  (Ksciiln-  all  its  attractions  wcmlcl  lie  wiarisdnic  iteration,  for  tlure  is  an  nnavoidahk'  sameness  in  tlie  pen- 
I)ietures  of  scenery,  however  \arial>le  in  charactir. 

Ha\  in.y;  n'  ule  a  tmir  of  the  Ailiromlack.s,  and  taken  many  pliotojjraplis  of  the  snperb  scenery  which  distinguishes  it,  \vc  took  train  at 
Saranac  I.ake  station,  the  south- 
ern terminns  of  the  Chatean,!L;ay 
Railroad,  and  retnrned  to  I'latls- 
IniVijli.  iMoni  that  iioint  wo 
proceeded  .south  hy  the  Dela- 
ware and  H\idson  Railroad, 
al>>nL;  the  wi-^t  shore  of  L'liam- 
plain,  l>y  TiconderojLja,  and 
till  nee  to  ( 'lien's  I'alls,  to  olitain 
a  ]iietnre  of  the  Ilndson  wlurc 
it  ponrs  over  roek\-  ledi^cs  in 
!.;re,it  volume  and  is  converted 
into  a  terrilile  cataract  tiial  is 
worth  many  miles  of  travel  to 
>ee.  (Inr  way  was  iIrii  con- 
tinued southward  to  Albany, 
and  thence  into  the  Cal>kins, 
which  lie.iL;in  aliout  one  luindred 
miles  south  of  the  Adirondacks. 
These  mountains  are  unlike 
any  others  in  America,  in  that 
wliile  every  other  rau.i;e  jios- 
ses>es  ])eaks  with  jaijyed  jKjints, 
jjcnerally  of  stones  tund)led  in 
confusion,  the  C'al>kills  have 
;;racefully  rounded  summits, 
'vliich,  thonjih  sumetinies  rising 
to  a  height  of  four  thousand 
feet,  yet  exhibit  few  effects  of 
aberrant  forces;  nor  are  they 
covered  with  huge- rocks,  suc)i 
as  characterize  all  other  ranges. 
The  scenery,  therefore,  while 
grand,   is    verv    tame   as   com- 


Sriel'RM-;    I  Alls    AMJ   LIII.    hROOK,    IN    Tllf-    AhlRONDACKS. 


pared  with  the  .\dirondacks,  and  but  for  the  fine  drive-wavs  through  the  valleys  and  over  their  crowns,  would  be  monotonous.  Hut  thi.s 
sameness  is  occasionally  diversified,  and  the  \i>itor  is  Ud  on  to  exiiect  more  beauties  than  lie  really  finds.  The  one  attr.ictive  and  jtistly 
famous  feature  of  this  mountain  region  is  Kaaterskill   I'alls.     The.se  are  reached  by  the  Catskill  Muuntain   Railroad  from  Catskill,  on  the 


AMERICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


377 


Hudson,  stoppiiijr  at  Mountain  House  station,  from  wliicli  cniini-ncc,  2,:.'.'i()  {vvt  above  tlie  river,  an  extensive  view  niarbe  liad,  takin.y;  in 
Al'iauy,  the  Hudson  Hii^iilands,  lUrksliire  Hills  and  the  ('.rein  Mountains.  It  is  even  said  that  by  means  of  a  fj;ood  f^Iass  on  a  clear  day 
portions  of  Massachusetts,  Conneetieiit  and  \e\v  Jerse\  may  be  descried,  but  durinjj;  our  visit  tlie  atmosplieric  conditions  were  unfavorable. 
Two  miles  from  the  .Mountain  House,  and  readied  by  a  beautiful  road,  are  the  celebrated  Kaaterskill  Falls,  at  the  head  of  which  is  located 
the  Laurel  House,  from  which 
a  fine  view  of  Round  Top  and 
Hi,i;h  Peak  may  be  had,  as  well 
as  of  the  falls  themselves.  Itul 
the  best  sight  is  obtained  by 
desceudiuf;  a  spiral  stairway 
into  the  K'"'K'-'  below  and  look- 
iuj;'  upward.  The  falls  are 
formed  by  the  overflow  of  Xorlh 
and  South  Lake,  which  pmirs 
throui^h  a  double  cleft  and  de- 
scends in  two  cascades,  the  first 
having  a  drop  of  ixn  feet,  and 
the  second  eighty  feet;  but  a 
short  distance  below  there*  is 
another  fall,  known  as  the  lias- 
lion,  which  liasa  further  descent 
of  forty  feet.  lieantifnl  as  they 
are,  candor  compels  the  state- 
ment, however  disparaging  it 
may  appear,  that  the  falls  are 
remittent,  and  that  peo])le  may 
visit  them  without  seeing  any 
such  display  of  waters  as  we 
have  described.  The  supply 
being  limited,  a  dam  has  been 
constructed  across  the  verge  of 
the  cliff,  and  is  opened  only  on 
special  and  rare  oecasi(Uis,  when 
the  number  of  incredulous  sum- 
mer visitors  is  great  enough  to 
make  it  necessary  to  turn  on 
the  water,  to  show  that  the  falls 


RRinni:  ovr.R  cifn's  palls,  new  york. 


■It 


are  .still  active.  There  is  some  very  pretty  scenery  in  the  region  of  Kaaterskill  Clo\e,  notably  Hains'  Kails,  Tawn-Lcap  Falls  and  High 
Rocks,  but  a  fee  is  charged  at  every  point  of  interest,  and  the  visitor  is  .so  harrowed  by  the  showmen  of  nature  that  he  is  in  no  disposition  to 
appreciate  the  view  which  he  pa>s  to  .see,  and  is  almost  certain  to  leave  the  Catskiils  with  a  bad  impression — even  wor.se  than  the  mountains 


37S 


AMERICA'S  WONDKRLANDS. 


I  I 


I 
nil 


desen'e.  It  was  with  such  feelings  that  we  set  out  by  rail  for  Kingston,  and  there  took  boat  down  the  Httdson  River  lor  New  York,  but 
stopped  for  a  while  at  West  Point  en  route. 

The  scenery  about  West  Point  is  of  almost  matchless  grandeur,  and  ever>'  consideration  is  present  to  confirm  tin-  wisdom  of  the 
Congress  of  1>*12  in  establishing  a  n'ilitary  training-school  at  this  point.  The  fort  on  the  rivcr-sharc  is  in  a  position  to  command  the 
approaches  north  and  south,  while  at  the  foot  of  the  highlands  is  a  level  stretch,  as  though  prepared  by  nature  for  a  Champ  des  Mars,  or 
parade-ground.  The  hills  rise  abruptly  from  the  rear  of  the  training-plaza,  and  front  their  summits  an  inspiring  view  is  to  be  had. 
Sweeping  the  horizon,  we  clearly  discern  the  Rrcak-N'cck,  Crow's  Nest,  .md  Storm  King  Mountains,  with  blue  valleys  stretching  away 
between,  and  the  majestic  Hudson  washing  the  feet  of  these  and  many  other  noble  hills.  The  academy,  besides  being  scenically  and 
advantageously  situated,  is  in  a  very 
realm  of  romance,  around  which  cluster 
many  memories  of  the  greatest  Writers 
of  ticiion  that  our  countrv-  has  the  honor 
of  claiming.  It  was  the  Crow's  Nest 
that  g.ive  the  inspiration  to  Joseph 
Rodin.ui  Drake  for  his  exquisite  poem 
L-ntilleil  the  "Culprit  Fay,"  so  charm- 
ingly realistic  that  the  fairies  of  his 
\erse  still  exi>t  in  fancy,  just  as  the 
uiouiitain  spirits  who  tricked  Rip  Van 
Winkle  still  hamit  the  deep  forests  of 
the  Catskills  and  play  at  nine-pins  on  the 
peak  th.it  overlooks  the  faded  village  of 
Falling  Watei.  Near  Cold  Spring, 
which  is  in  this  same  historic  laud,  was 
"  Undcrcliff,"  the  home  of  (leorge  P. 
Morris,  and  where  he  wrote  that  patri- 
otic and  nun-ing  tribute  to  a  sheltering 
tree,  the  figure  of  our  American  Union, 
"  Wooduian  Spare  that  Tree."  So  was 
"Idlewild."  the  villa  of  X.  P.  Willis, 
close-bv,  and  hereabout  also  Washing- 
ton Irving  spent  much  of  his  time  gath- 
ering  traditions  from  descetulants  of  the  LOOKINO  NORTH  FROM  WEST  POINT.  NEW  YORK. 

old  Dutch  colonists  for  his  imperishable  "Sketch  Book"  tales,  liut  history  as  indelibly  fi.\es  West  Point  in  the  minds  of  Americans  as  the 
stories  of  famous  fiction-writers,  for  the  site  of  the  training-school  was,  in  Revolutionarj'  times,  occupied  by  Fort  Putnam,  erected  under 
the  direction  of  Kosciuszko;  and  it  was  at  West  Point  that  Benedict  Arnold  consummated  his  traitorous  deal  with  Major  Andre,  to  deliver 
that  post  into  the  hands  of  the  British.  On  the  opposite  shore  is  the  mouth  of  a  pretty  .stream  called  the  Mooda,  but  which  in  earlier 
times  was  known  as  Murderer's  Creek,  on  account  of  the  .slaughter  by  a  band  of  lurking  savages  of  eight  .soldiers  who  were  .sent  with 
buckets  to  fetch  water  for  the  camp  near-by.  A  little  way  below  is  Milton's  Ferry,  a  spot  fanu.ns  as  the  place  of  residence  of  a  patriot 
blacksmith  \vhomade  the  gre.at  chain  that  .stretched  across  the  river  at  old  Fort  Montgomery,  to  prevent  the  passage  of  British  ships.     For 


but 


BREAK-NECK   HILL,  ON   THE   HUDSON   RIVER,   NEW   YORK. 


■1,1 


3So 


AMHRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


1 


'It 


I' 


I '"'I 
PI.,  I  ilfl' 

in' 


I 


this  service  he  was  taken  captive  shortly  after  and  kept  in  close  confinement  on  an  Ivnjjiish  ship  until  his  death.  Ncwburgh  is  also  only  a 
few  miles  away,  smiling;  heiii^nly  from  terraced  hanks  n]>on  the  river  below;  and  conspicnons  ainon>;  its  old  houses  is  one  in  which  Wash- 
iiij^ton  had  his  he.uKiu.irters  in  17M0,  and  which  is  chanj^ed  bnt  little  in  ai)])earance  .since  he  occupied  it. 

It  is  below  West  I'oint  that  the  princi|>.il  places  of  scenic  and  historic  interest  occur,  and  these  crowd  rapidly  upon  one  another  until 
Yonkers  is  re.iched.  At  the  base  of  Sugar-Loaf  Mountain  is  a  bluffy  projectiou  upou  which  Fort  Independeuee,  of  Revolutionary  times, 
was  built,  and  near-by  is  Hut- 
teruiilk  I'.ills,  that  runs  down  a 
succession  of  sharj)  led.ijes  one 
hundred  feet.  .\ntliou\  's  Nose 
is  on  the  right,  rising  to  a 
height  of  nine  huudved  feet, 
and  oxerlookiug  beaulilul  Ionia 
U'.uul,  that  seeuis  to  swim  upon 
the  gl.i»\  surface  of  the  river, 
like  the  h.ilcyon  isle  of  fable; 
but  on  close  ap])roach  its  three 
hundred  acres  are  found  to  be 
covered  with  viueyanls  and  its 
shaded  margins  the  favorite 
gatlleriug-])laee  of  merry  pic- 
nicers. 

The  Highlands  come  next 
in  view,  of  which  Duuderbcrg 
Mountain,  eleven  hundred  feet 
high,  is  the  nmst  pruuiinent 
object;  ai;(J  then  appears  IVeks- 
kill,  the  prettiest  luu  u  in  east- 
ern New  York.  Nc.ir  this 
l)lace  is  Caldwell's  Landing, 
distinguished  as  being  the  im- 
mediate vicinity  of  Captain 
Kidd's  buried  trcasun,  which 
huiulreds  nave  searched  lorwith 
great  energy  and  at  immense 
exiK-use,    but   without    reward. 


TROPHY   ("lARnF.N,   WHST   POINT. 


Remains  of  Revoluiiouar\  fnrts  are  seen  at  Vcrplauck  ard  Stony  I'oint,  and  below  these  the  Croton  River  discharges  into  the  Hudson.  Sins' 
Sing  and  N'yack  are  ])asse'l  in  order,  between  which  the  shores  are  occupied  with  charming  villas,  and  tiie  landscape  here  is  very  pictures(|ne. 
Hut  it  is  at  Tarrytown  that  visitors  find  most  to  interest  them,  both  for  the  scenic  beauty  of  the  reighborhood  and  the  historic  prominence 
which  attaches  to  the  ])lace.  Here  it  w.is  that  Major  .Xudre  was  arrested,  the  identical  sjiot  being  marked  by  an  inscription  in  the  village 
records.     The  spirit  of  Washington  Irving  seems  to  pervade  the  locality,  for  it  was  in  this  vicinage  that  the  creatures  of  Lis  exquisite  fancy 


STORM   KIN(i   MOUNTAIN,   HUDSON   RIVER. 


3''-J 


AMKKICA'S  \V( )\1)HRLANUS. 


Iili' 


!M> 


It 


|i 


:|l' 

III! 


l.Kin',   AUSAHI.I-;   CHASM. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

A  PICTORIAL  TOUR  OF  THH  EASTERN  STATES. 


SS  KXPLAINl'U)  in  tin.'  ]iri'ct.(liii>,'  cliaplcr,  one  of  our  jiliotojjraplicrs  wasiK'spatcliid  into  Canada  fnini  O^tfliMishiirj;,  and  iiistrnctcrl  to 
take  viiws  of  llie  ino.st  pliasinj^  si'iiutv  of  the  Dominion,  afli-r  wliiili  to  make  a  tonr  of  tlie  Ivislerii  Slates  and  join  tile  others  at 
New  Yt>rk  n]>iin  tiie  eoin|iletion  of  liis  labors  in  tliat  seclion.  Wliile  Canada  is  not  a  i)art  of  tlie  I'nited  States,  its  conli^inoiis 
seenery,  some  of  which  is  very  l)eantifnl,  and  the  intimate  relations  suhsistinff  between  the  two  countries  ju-<tify  this  brief  dciiarture 
from  our  ori),'inal  dc^iyn,  ;iarticul,irly  as  the  must  direct  route  from  the  West  to  Xurtlu  rn  Xew  Ilainpshire  and  \'ermout,  is 
throuj;h  the  sonthern  part  ol  Canada,  where  the  most  interesting;  and  accessilde  scenery  is  found.  Crossiuj^  the  St.  Lawrence  at 
nsburg  to  I'rescott,  our  artist  proceeded  to  Ottawa,  fifty-four  miles  distant,  by  the  Canadian  Pacific  Kailmad,  for  the  ]>urpnse  of  t.ikini; 

views  o{  Chaudiere  I'alls,  which  are  faninns  alike  for  their  si/e  and  j,'randcur 
The  ci'v  ot  Ottawa  extends  for  a  distance  of  two  miles  alonjf  I  )ttawa  River, 
.ind  is  one  of  the  most  i)ictiiresiiue  sites  in  Ontario,  located  as  it  is  on  the 
banks  of  a  lieautiful  stream,  and  in  the  center  of  a  riL;ion  that  is  famous  for 
its  eharniinj;  scciury.  The  Rideau  River  debouches  into  the  Ottawa  at 
Chaudiere  (C.ddrun)  I'alls,  and  its  bluffy  shores,  lilll  feet  hii^h,  are  ornate 
with  sjilcudid  buildinH;s.  The  Ri<lean  Canal,  which  skirts  the  east  side  of 
Parliament  Hill,  separates  the  hi^dier  from  the  lower  town,  au<l  south  of  thi^ 
point  is  the  \ast  lumber  interests,  manifested  by  th"  'irtje  number  of  saw-mills 
operated  principally  by  power  derived  from  the  falls  I'.ut  it  is  about  Chau- 
diere I'alls  that  chief  attraction  clusters,  ))artictilarly  t>f  visitors,  for  a  more 
cntraneinj;  sii;ht  can  hardly  be  found  in  any  ])art  of  Xorth  America.  Ottawa 
River  is  a  stream  of  cimsiderable  mai;nitnde,  l)otli  in  width  and  depth,  but  at 
the  point  wliere  the  falls  appear  it  is  contracted  to  a  width  of  I'HO  feet  and  then 
plun^'cs  over  a  preci])iee  forty  feet  hi),di.  at  the  month  of  Rideau  River.  Hut 
the  verjje  of  the  leil),'e  is  so  ra!.;;4ed  and  curved  that  the  stream  is  broken,  ami 
pours  down  in  a  swirling  motion,  which  forms  a  very  charybdis  below,  into 
which  it  is  danj;cron.s  for  crafts  to  enter.  The  volume  diseharjjed  is  almost  as 
fjreat  as  that  of  Xiajjara,  and  the  power  displayed  is  wonderful  to  behold, 
lieautiful,  jjrand  and  amazinj;  as  they  are  in  summer,  it  is  dnrinjj  winter  that 
the  sid)lime  niajjnificeiice  of  the  falls  is  impressed  upon  the  visitor.  Several 
views,  from  different  points  of  observation,  were  taken  by  our  photographer, 
but  these  were  rejected  to  );ive  place  to  the  winter  scene  here  presented,  since 
it  affords  a  more  perfect  idea  of  the  falls  in  their  glory,  when  the  Ice  King  has 
frozen  them  into  a  vision  of  superlative  splendor. 

Three  hundred  miles  northeast  of  Ottawa,  Montreal  River,  a  small  but 
noisy  stream  that  is  the  outlet  of  a  chain  of  lakes  far  up  in  the  British  posses- 
sions, flows  into  the  Ottawa  River,  and  twenty  miles  above  its  mouth  are 


383 


WINOOSK!  RIVER  GORGE,  VERMONT. 


III,   II 
lll'lt 

nil.     i:i| 
'''  rill 


I 


M<iiitriMl  Raj^iiN,  a  picture  of  wliich  was 
oluaimd  lioiii  a  Imal  iiliotoHrapluT  at  Ottawa, 
and  is  In  to  npnuliuid  as  aflordiiij^  an  idi  a  ol 
tlio  si'i-iuiy  in  tliat  k'<^'''  nortlii-rn  and  aliiiust 
uni.x]>l(irfd  ii};ioii. 

Imoiu  Ottawa  tlic  trip  was  continiUMl  liy 
lio.it  iiiK'  Iniudri-d  miles  to  Montreal.  Tliis 
mule  attonls  a  view  df  Lake  St.  I.ouis,  Nun's 
Ni.iiid,  and  I.acliine  K.ipids,  tiie  timst  <laii- 
mriius  part  of  St.  Lawreiiee  ki\er,  \et  it  is 
e\ery  day  tra\erse<l  liy  ]>Ieasure  .steamers,  of 
wliieli  a  li.neler  li.is  llins  jjr.iidiiealiy  written: 
"  In  tile  deseent  of  tlu^e  rapids  we  aie  wron;^lit 
to  .1  fe\erisll  def;ree  of  exeiteuienl,  e.xeeedinj; 
ill. It  produced  in  the  passa^;e  of  the  Lonjj 
S.iiilt.  Il  i--  .111  intense  sensation,  and  tll0U)^li 
perfeetK  >.ile,  is  terrible  to  the  faint-hearted, 
e\liil.ir.itin>j;  to  the  lira\c.  Opposite  I.acliine 
is  tlie  (|U,iiut  Indi.in  \illaxe  of  C'.iuylin,iwaj,'o, 
where  still  reside  descendants  of  the  onee- 
jiiiwerfnl  Iroquuis  Nation.  The  inimeii--e  steel 
Uridine  spaiiiiin<,'  the  ,St.  Kawrence  it  this  point 
is  justly  cuiisidered  one  of  the  enj^ineering 
trininphs  nf  the  century.  It  was  built  by  tlie 
C.in.idi.ni  Pacific  k.iilway,  is  alnjut  a  mile 
loiij;,  with  two  channel  spans  of  l^H  feet,  and 
lofty  eiiciu;;li  to  allow  free  passajje  to  the 
larj^est  steamers.  I'rom  this  bridj^-e  a  line 
view  is  obtained  of  the  rapids,  villa;;es  on  cither 
shore,  loftiest  structures  in  Montreal,  and  the 
distant  niotintains." 

Monfeal  is  the  metropolis  of  Canada, 
haviiii;  ;  opulati<jn  of  about  2-'(i,()0(),  and 
beinjj  at  .le  head  of  ship  navij^'ation,  has 
iin])rovcd  its  advantages  and  becoine  the  chief 
commercial  port  of  the  nominion.  The  name 
is  derived  from  Mount  Royal,  which  rises  700 
feet  above  the  river,  the  eminence  which 
Jacques  Carticr  ascended  in  \ttX>,  and  looked 
with  startled  eyes  upon  the  palisaded  Indian 


AM I'IRIC.V'S  W ( )M)i;RLAM)ti. 


TOIU)(,(..\N  SI.IDR   AT  MONTREAL. 


ClIAUUIKKK   1  AILS     SHAH   OilAWA,   CANAIjA,    IN    WINTER. 


4l| 


t    ' 


as 


1      ll 


1 1 


•lip 

I'llI 


3S6 

town  iif  HoclK'la<;a,  surroiiiukd  by  vast  i\M> 
of  j^rain,  at  the  wist  base  of  the  luoiuitaiii. 
Sixty  \iais  kitcr,  when  Saiiiuel  de  Cbaniphiiii 
inaile  bis  way  up  the  St.  I.awieiu-e  and 
elinilieil  to  ihe  siininiit  of  Mount  Ko\,il,  he 
looked  in  vain  lor  tlie  town  which  Cavtier  had 
discovered  and  descrilieck  (Inly  two  of  the 
native  Indians  of  lKichela<;a  were  found,  from 
whom  was  k-arned  the  tra;^ic  history  of  the 
place,  the  iuliabitants  of  which  had  been 
exterminated  and  the  town  i1eslrci\ed  by  .1  ri\al 
tribe. 

Montreal  is  sitnated  on  an  isl.uul  of  the 
same  n.inie,  and  the  eminences  about  it  were 
.so  important  as  vanta.<.;e-pl.iees  tli.it  dnriiiy;  the 
I'Veneh  and  Indian  w.irs  (in  lii'i.'i  1,  the  mount 
w.is  fortified  Ijy  the  kVeiieli,  and  in  17'.'2  a 
citadel  w.is  erected  on  a  heii^ht  now  l.iid  out  as 
Dalhous'e  Sijuare.  In  its  e.uly  historv  ,  there- 
fore, the  city  was  the  .scene  of  many  incidents 
ol  Indian  w.irfare,  and  was  on  disputed  "ground 
until  the  surrender  of  Ouebec,  in  IT.'i'.i,  when 
tlie  I-aii^lish  i;.iined  peruianent  possession  of 
tlie  place. 

The  scenery  in  the  ne  i  ^  h  l)orliood  of 
Montreal  is  pleasant,  but  not  partienlirly 
attractive;  \et  the  severity  of  the  we.itber  anil 
the  lout;  re. idles  of  i^racefnl  hills  there, liiont 
.ifford  opportunity  for  the  most  enjo\able 
winter  sports.  Tobo;,'j;aiiin}4;  is  a  favorite  pas- 
time in  .season,  and  the  most  charminjj  scenes 
imafjinable  may  be  witnessed  bv  a  \isit  to  the 
west  side  slide  wlnii  a  he. ivy  siicw  has  pre- 
pared the  s,'round  for  the  host  of  red-cheeked 
nierry-ni.ikeis,  who  flock  tlure  li\-  thousands 
with  their  tobo};}.;.iiis,  and  llv  down  the  hi',1  in 
louj.;  lines  of  varie.L;,ited  color.  Winter  is  the 
carnival  season,  and  for  some  yea's  Montreal 
has  been  s])ecially  distinguished  I;\  the  brilli.int 
fetes  which  her  leading  citizens  have  provided 


A.MKRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


MONT.MORENCI  I  AI.I.S.   NLAR  QUEBKC. 


■Ill' 


3SS 

notalil)  that  of  l'*>'"*f^.  On  tins  occasion  the 
cil_\'  was  a  scene  of  e\uaoi\linary  sulendor, 
exceeding;,  in  the  nia:;nificeut  sij;hls  afforded, 
the  carnivals  that  take  place  on  the  frozen 
waters  of  the  Xe\a  Ri\er,  before  the  Unssian 
capital  of  St.  I'eterslnir.i;,  faniims  alike  in  sonjj 
and  story.  Tlie  ^^n-.ii  ice-palace,  of  which  an 
illustration  is  here  .L;ivcn,  was  a  most  excjuisite 
imitation  of  niedi;e\al  architecture,  '!  alinjj  in 
ils  imposing  and  charming  appea'.mce  the 
liuot  castles  of  the  old  world.  When  ilhim- 
iualed  liy  thousands  cil  lis^hts,  the  palact  Jire- 
senteuascenc  which  must  e\er  rem.iin  fadeless 
in  the  memory  of  those  who  witnessed,  it. 
I!ut  to  increase  the  heautilul  effect,  the  city's 
jiopnlation  turned  out  in  the.gayest  of  wiiUer 
attire,  filling  the  .spacious  ball-room  of  the 
palace  with  a  marvelous  display  of  color  in 
j;raceful  evolution,  while  outside  the  gav 
revelers  sported  as  jolly  maskers  and  filled  the 
air  with  songs  of  glee.  A  similar  ••.-irnival 
was  111  Id  at  St.  Paul  in  l^iMl',  and  an  ice-palace 
of  ei|ual  proportions  was  constr'.cted  in  liounr 
of  the  Frost  King,  with  grard  illuminatinus 
and  display  of  fire-works  at  night,  as  illus- 
trated in  a  previous  chapter,  but  no  fete  ever 
given  on  the  western  continent  is  believed  '^ 
have  been  so  magnificent  as  that  of  Montreal 
in  l^'H.'S. 

I-'roni  Montreal  the  jcjurncy  was  continued 
over  the  Canadian  Pacific  Railroad  to  Qr.ebec, 
distant  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  miles,  and 
along  the  north  shore  of  the  .St.  Lawrence, 
in  sight  of  that  river  most  of  the  way,  so  that 
the  \  iew  is  a  very  attractive  one.  Quebec,  the 
third  largest  city  in  the  r)i>uiini(in  of  Canada, 
with  a  [Kjpnlation  of  7ii,(IO(l,  lias  nuich  to 
recommend  it,  both  cotnmercially  and  scen- 
ically,  for  it  is  the  center  of  vast  lumbir  and 
mining   interests,  the  head  of  navigation  for 


A-M ERICA'S  \\UXDKRLA\DS. 


ST.    ANNL    I  Al.L^,   NUAU   (JlEBKC. 


•.I 


11 


bCKNbKY   Al.uNCi  THH  LINK  (  .H    IHB  CANAIjIAN   PACII  IC   RAILWAY. 


T 


III' 


I  ii 


1 1 


■III 


390 

tlie  lart;i-st  slcaniers  of  tlie  line, 
aiul  is  a<lv:uita<ii.'oii>ly  located  on 
a  liead'anil  eonunandiiiy;  the  St. 
Lawrence.  A  larye  ]irt  of  the 
city  lies  nnder  wh.it  is  known  as 
Cape  DiaMiond  i'roniontoiy,  npon 
the  sunnu >  ui  which,  .'i.'iO  feet 
above  the  river,  is  the  Citadel,  a 
f. irtification  so  neaiiy  iniprcijnahle 
t!iat  Quebec  has  been  called  the 
American  (iibraltar,  a  desijjiiation 
nrire  deserved  because  of  the 
many  attacks  which  its  o;arrisons 
have  repulsed.  The  Plains  of 
.\bvaluun  are  southwest  of  the 
suburb  of  St.  Louis,  and  from  that 
eminence  a  wide  and  truly  mag- 
nificent view  is  obtained,  exlend- 
iuj^  to  the  (ireen  Mnuutains  on  the 
south  and  the  I.aurenti.m  Ranj^o 
on  the  north,  with  j,diuipsesof  nu- 
merous rivers  and  hikes  between. 
The  entire  province  of  Ouebec 
is  remarkably  will  watered  and 
timbered,  with  sections  of  forests 
so  dense  that  much  of  it  still  re- 
mains to  be  explored.  I'jijht 
miles  from  the  city  are  the  famous 
Montmorency  I'alls,  which  have  a 
li'ap  over  natural  steps  of  i'.">0  feet 
and  jiour  down  an  iunnense  V(j1- 
ume,  whose  roariuLf  may  bj  heard 
on  calm  days  for  a  distance  of 
many  miles.  Near  the  f.dls  is  a 
hcjtel  called  the  Haldimaud  House, 
which  w.is  once  the  residence  of 
Oueen  \'ictoria's  father,  the  Duke 
of  Kent.  .Sixty  miles  north, 
and  reached  bv  the  (Jiiebec  ami 
Lake  St.  John   Railroad,   is   Lake 


AMKRILWS  \\"0XUI-:RLAXDS. 


WlNOOSKl   FAMS.    VI-l^MflNT. 


i 


,\  SVI  \A\   SIKKAM    IN    VKKMUM. 


;  I  I,  i  « 

,ini 


392 


AMERICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


Si.  Jciliu,  a  ].\r^^Q  arul  pclhiciil  1)o(ly  of  water  \vlu)se  outlet  is  llie 
S,>,L;u(.nay  River,  ami  one  of  the  most  wonderful  streams  on  earth. 
Il.i\  art!  T.i\  lor  sa\s  of  it;  "It  is  not  Jiroperly  a  ri\er,  luu  a  treiuen- 
ilous  eliasui,  like  that  of  the  Jord.ui  X'allev  anil  the  De.ul  Sea,  cleft  for 
sixt)'  miles  tlironj;li  the  heart  of  a  niouutaiuous  wilderness.  luery- 
tliing  about  it  is  h.uil,  naked,  stern,  silent.  D.irk-i^rey  cliffs  of  j^ranite 
!.;neiss  rise  from  the  ]iiteh-I)lack  w.iter;  tirs  of  ylooniy  j^reen  are  rooted 
in  their  crevices  and  frinj.;e  their  sunimits;  loftier  ran,yes  of  a  dull 
indiijo  hue  show  theniseKes  in  the  li.ickt^ronnd,  and  o\er  all  hends  a 
ji.de,  cold,  northern  sky."' 

The  Sajjuen.iy  is  sometimes  called  the  Ri\er  of  Death,  on  account 
of  its  somber  waters  and  the  dee])  gorj;e  throuj^h  which  it  sluj;j;ishly 
moves.  Its  dejith  is  also  remarkable,  rans^nui,'  from  imi  to  l,niii)  ftd^ 
and  alonj;  its  course  are  several  prett)-  falls,  where  the  stream  .suddenly 
cwuir.icts,  and  rapids  where  it  expands  and  the  occasional  shoals  apjiear. 
The  country  aln>ut  (Jnebec  is  pleasini.;ly  diversified,  ami  aboumlin>^  with 
forests  ami  lakes  is  a  very  p.ir.uli.--e  lor  hunters  and  ti>hers,  as  well  as 
alfordinjj  views  wtirthy  of  the  artist's  best  efforts.  .Some  ten  miles 
above  the  eit\ ,  and  forming;  an  outlet  for  Lake  .Me!.;antic,  on  the  .south 
side  of  the  .St.  Lawrence,  is  Cluuuliere,  or  lioiliny;  River,  an  impetu- 
OU-,  but  noble  stre.un,  wli.ise  err.itic  course  is  interrupted  bv  Chau- 
diire  Falls,  where  the  river  takes  a  ]ilunj;e  over  a  precipice  \'J'>  feel 
lii,u;h  and  iiall  feet  wide.  Ihivinj;  expended  its  vi^or  in  this  violent 
exercise,  the  ii\er  tl(jws  on  tiienceforth  in  a  subdued  and  gentle 
manner,  in  remarkable  contrast  with  the  cliaracter  which  it  displays 
above  the  f.dls. 

Other  famous  falls  in  the  vicinity  of  Quebec  are  tho.sc  of  the 
Scuzzie,  near  North  liend,  and  .St.  Anne  l'"all>,  on  the  north  shore  of 
the  .St.  Lawrence,  twentx  mile.s  below  the  city,  where  the  ri\er  St. 
.\une,  a  small  continent  of  that  stream,  breaks  over  a  brink  one  hun- 
dred feet  high,  and  pours  through  crevices  worn  in  the  Laurcntian  njcks 
in  a  successinn  of  cascades  of  great  l)eanty.  While  the  scenerv  of 
Southern  Canada  is  very  charming,  it  is  the  boundary  outposts  of  very 
nuK'h  more  magnificent  landscapes  towards  the  .south,  and  it  was 
towards  the  mouulainons  districts  of  \"ermont  and  Xew  Hampshire 
tliat  our  artist  bent  his  way  after  concluding  a  tour  of  the  vicinity  of 
Onebec.  The  journey  was,  therefore,  by  way  of  the  ('Trand  Trunk  and 
Wrmont  Central  Railroa<l  into  the  heart  of  Cireen  .Mountains.  This 
route  took  our  phot;igrapher  by  the  l'aii>sburgh  l-\Jls,  .St.  .Mbans  and 
I".>sex  Junction,  from  which   latter  pl.ice  a  <letonr  was  made  down  the 


PEACOCK  I  ALLS,  GREEN   .MOUNTAINS. 


AMERICA'S  \\X)XI)ERLAXr)S. 


393 


famous  Wiiiodski  RInit  to  I'lnliahn  some  of  tlie  rfitiarkalilc  sccMiiry  aloiij,'  lliat  sttvaui.  Us  source  is  in  tlie  spurs  of  flrccu  Mountains, 
wliencc  it  flows  nortliweslwardiy,  clcaviuij  tlie  ranjje  near  its  junetion  willi  \\'aterl)ur\-  River,  and  then  speeds  tlircmj^li  a  chasm  until  it 
empties  into  Lake  Champkiin.  Tiiis  wild  Kor;-;e  is  ])artienlarl\-  \von(lerf\il  some  four  or  li\e  miles  from  the  lake,  the  walls  risintj  at  places 
fullvone  hundred  feet  andexhiliitiui;  the  same  elea\aH;e  and  jaj^yed  precipices  that  distiuLMiish  Ansalile  Chasm,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  lake. 
At  the  town  of  \Viuo^ski,  the  ri\er  Hows  over  a  dam  two  hundred  feel  wide  and  twent\-fi\e  feet  hi,u;h.  but  before  the  dam  a. is  constructed, 
to  afford  power  for  several  mills,  the  river  here  was  a  lonj;  stretch  of  cascades  and  cataracts,  a  condition  which  is  still  continued  below  the 
falls  and  to  its  place  of  outlet.     From  ICssex  Junction  the  \'erinont  Central  follows  the  Winonski  to  Montpelier,  passinjr  the  beautiful  town 

of  Waterlnu),  which  is  the  pass  of  Cireen  Mountains  and  the  center  of  some  of  the 
finest  scener\-  in  the  .State.  I''rom  \\'aterbury  it  is  only  ten  miles  by  statje  to  Mount 
Mansfield,  which  is  the  loftiest  peak  in  the  raii.i;e  (-l,.'is'.i  feet),  and  from  the  summit 
of  which  a  splendid  \iew  is  had  of  lo\ely  \alleys,  jfushinij  streams  and  battalions  of 
graceful  numntains.  In  this  same  \icinit\-,  checkered  by  many  mountain  streams, 
arc  Peacock  Ralls,  Bingh.am  Falls,  Muss-Glen  Falls,  Morri.sville  Falls,  and  others  of 
lesser  note  but 
equal  beauty. 
At  the  base  of 
Mansfield  I'eak 
is  a  sta^e  sta- 
tion, called 
Stowe,  from 
w  h  i  c  h  the 
crown  of  the 
m  o  u  n  t  a  i  n  is 
plainly  observ- 
able, exhibit- 
inij  thedi.stiuct 
features  of  a 
giant,  whose 
forehead,  nose 
and  chin  are 
formed  by  two 
rents  in  the 
summit,  mak- 
ing the  ]ndpor- 


Cl.ARENDON  r,OR<iK,  VhRMONT. 


WINOOSKI  RIVER.   NEAR  .MinDLESEX.  VERMONT. 


tions,  as  well  as  the  outlines,  so  perfect  that  visitors  are  quick  to  discover  the  likeness  even  before  a  guide  calls  attention  to  it.  Camel's 
Hump  is  another  mountain,  five  miles  front  AVaterbury,  the  second  highest  in  the  range  (  l.oiio  feet),  Imt  its  surface  is  so  bniken  that  no 
wagon-road  has  as  yet  been  made  to  the  summit,  but  a  horse  may  be  ridden  to  the  top,  and  the  ascent,  accomplished  at  w  hatever  expense 
of  effort,  is  well  re|)aid  by  the  magnitude  and  magnificence  of  the  scenery  thus  brought  into  view,  fialton  F'alls  are  within  five  miles  of 
the  Hump,  and  are  a  shrine  of  beauty  to  which  hundreds  of  .summer  visitors  ])ay  the  tribute  of  admiration. 

F'roin  Montpelier  the  \'ermont  Central  turns  south,  following  a  tributary  of  the  Winooski  to  Roxbury,  thence  it  strikes  the  valley  of 


394 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDlvRLAXDS. 


,  ^11. 


I  i. 


I  I 


III' 


il» 


rill 


'^VM^ 


Wliitf  River,  flown  wliicli  it  contintics  to  the  Coiiiiccticiit  Kivir;  but  tliis  latter  reKioti  is  more  siilxl'.u-il  tliaii  tlie  section  just  described. 
The  .sceiK-ry,  while  not  so  .^rand  and  nmuntainons,  ]>ossesses  a  heanlv  to  excite  the  fancy  of  a  jioet  and  day-dreamer,  for  the  views  are  of 
gentle  meanderin.i,'  streams  mamin.^  thmn-h  woods  wluie  fairies  miylit  lo\e  to  dwell,  sinj^in),' their  lonesome  hillaliies  to  the  deep  coverts  that 
beinl  low  alonj;  the  shores.  Dainty  waterfalls,  nmrnnii  in.i;  r.qvids,  s\l\an  shades,  distin.i^nisli  the  wav  of  man\-  brooks  that  roll  out  of  nioiint- 
aiu  springs  and  rnn  down  to  the  .sea,  uiviiij;  drink  to  the  farmers'  herds,  trnndling  old  water-mills,  and  doing  many  kind  ollice.s  on  the  wav. 

.\nother  branch  of  the  \'er-  p 
niont   Central    runs   dne    sonth   ' 
from   I-!>-.e\  Junction  and   Unr-  ' 
lin;^lon,  on  the  shore   of  Lake  I 
Champlain,  and  jiasses  thrmigh 
many  thri\in.y;  vill.iyes,  such   is 
Xew  IIa\en,  Middljbnrx  ,  I'.ran-   , 
d.m    and    Kntl.i    .i.      .\l    this  ' 
latter   point,    wliic'li    is   on   a 
considerable  stre.im  called  t  )tter 
Creek,   snnic   \ery    charming 
scenery  occnrs,  not  eiuirelv  con- 
fined to  the  creek,  which,  how- 
ever,   is   a    stream   almost    as 
remarkable    as    the    Winooski. 
.\t   a    ])lace    called   Clarendon 
(iorgethe  creek  flows  through 
a  chasm  some  thirty  feet  deep 
and  so  narrow   tliat  when  the 
foliage  of  the  banks  is  hea\iest 
the    stre.im    is   almost    entirely 
hiildeii   by   the   over  lacing 
branches    of    olijiosite    trees. 
Here  the  stream  makes  a  sharp 
turn,  and   in  doing  so   has  cnt 
deeply    into    the    rock-shore 
against    which    it   strikes,   and 
formed  a   deep    pool  in   which 
fish  fairlv  swarm,  and  hence  at 
all  seasons  the  angler  here  mav  '^  ""R^'-  ^^f^^'f^  '^'  VFRMONT. 

find  the  choicest  sport.  The  I'lrei-n  Mountain  Range  is  within  five  miles  of  Rutland,  and  se\eral  outlving  peaks  are  nnich  nearer,  such  as 
I'aco,  Rillingston,  .Shrewsbury  and  li.ild  I'eaks,  which  are  of  sullicient  altitude  to  give  the  suminit-observer  a  good  view  of  Lake  Cieorge 
and  the  .Adinndacks.  The  road  coiuiiraes  southwest  fnnii  Rutl.ind  through  a  pass  in  the  Ciieeii  .Monntains  at  llealiKalle  and  joins  the  more 
eastern  section  at  Hellows  Falls,  <in  the  Connecticut  Ri\iT. 

At  -Montpelieronr  photograplier  proceeded  due  east  over  the  .Montpelier  and  Wells  River  Railroad  to  Woodsville,  a  route  which  follows 


W'-?^ 


AMI-:RICA-S  WUXDI'IRI.AXDS.  395 

a  tllird  coiifliU'iit  of  tlio  Wiiionski  for  some  iiiilis  to  Marslilklil  sl;ilioii,  wIriv  it  in.ikis  an  dtiow-turn  soiitluvcst  by  I'cabody's  I.akc,  •iiul 
tlu'iice  kiijis  close-  lo  tilt-  liaiik  of  \\\lls  Ki\ir,  a  small  sinam  that  (liscliai>;ts  into  tin-  Coiiiuiticiit  at  Woods-  .lU-.  Tin-  Rj^ioii  tlius 
traversed  is  soliiewliat  broken,  luu  is  lii-lily  enlli\atnl;  and  the  farm  seems  alon^'  the  way  are  partienlarly  eharniin«.  A.^riL-idlnre  in  the 
Kastern  States  exhitiits  a  strikiii);  eonlra-t  with  that  in  the  We-t,  and  in  \'eiinont  and  \ew  Hampshire  the  dissimilarity  of  method  and  the 
.si/.e  of  farm  is  espeeially  t;reat.     The  soil  down  east,  in  the  sections  named,  has  to  be  reclaimed,  nnt  from  the  forests  so  m\ich  as  from  the 

roiks,  for  it  is  es>entially  a 
rocky  coinUr\-.  The  fences 
arc  nsnally  made  of  stnmps  and 
stones,  m.iterial  which  is  plen- 
tifully at  hand,  so  that  the  barb- 
wire  trnst  lias  no  ^jrip  n])on 
!\ew  I'lnijland  a,i,'ricultnri>ts. 
The  farms,  too,  are  what  Wcst- 
erii'TS  woidd  cill  "small  acre- 
patches,"  bnt  they  arc  so  in- 
dnstrionsly  and  intellijjently 
tilled  that  every  foot  of  ground 
is  made  to  yield  its  fnll  capac- 
ity. I'mijal,  yet  hospitable — 
poor,  nia\be,  yet  refined — the 
down -east  farmer  is  a  hard 
worker,  a  lover  of  l)ooks,  pa- 
tient, contented,  and,  withal,  a 
generous  man,  philosojihic  and 
industrious  enonj^h  to  extract 
happiness  out  of  harsh  natural 
conditions. 

Woodsville  is  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Ammoor.oosuc  with 
the  Conneclictit  Ki\er,  alonj; 
the  valley  of  which  former 
stream  the  railroad  runs  initil 
it  strikes  the  White  Mo\inlaius, 
into  which  rcj^ion  of  world- 
famous  scenery  our  artist  jour- 


i'Ai.i.s  (ii-  Tin;  \.\\\\o(iN(^nsrr.,  i\  nii-:  whiii^  moi'mains. 


iicycd.  A  branch  of  the  road  extends  south  to  a  terminus  at  Profile  House,  which  is  at  the  ba-c  of  Profile  Mountain,  in  the  iManconia 
Range.  This  jie.ik,  which  isl,<iii(»  feet  above  the  sea,  possesses  two  remarkable  features  that  have  served  to  make  it  known  throughout 
the  world.  At  the  crown  there  are  .several  colossal  stones,  so  distributed  by  chance  that  when  viewed  from  Profile  ^lonntain  House  they 
resemble  a  mounted  cannon,  on  which  account  the  peak  is  often  called  Mount  Cannon.  Put  a  greater  natural  curiosity  occurs  to  visitors 
after  1  2(ll)  feet  of  the  ascent  is  made,  for  suddeids  there  api)ears  the  bold  and  exceedingh-   well-defined  features  of  "The  Old  Man  of  tile 


'\i 


390 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDI'.RLANDS. 


!  r 


III* 

i!  ! 


Moiiiu.iiiis,"  lotiikcl  liy  tliri'c  iiinsscs  of  mck  su  ili'-pii-.i(]  iIiMt  it'^  iiitul\  fiit  i>i  laci'  (.•xliiliits  tlu-  cloan-cut  cli.iracttTistics  of  foriluiid,  imse, 

lips  .111(1  cliiii  iH'ilii'lIy  (iiiliiiud  .ly.iin-t  tlii-  sk\ .      A  liw  kit  IhIhw  tln.>  iioiiUof  ulisi'iAMlinii,  wIriv  tlii'  old  iiLin's  f.uL'  is  ixposid,  llic  simii- 

Kiant  cliaiijjfs  liis  katiiris  like  a  uuitiiciaii  ami  turniius  "a  toollilcss  old  woiiiaii  in  .1  tiiop-cMp."     Ilawtlionu'  lias  itsid  tliis  woiidirliil  iiiianu 

to  i-M\Ilv.iit  ilfi'i't  ill  liis  " 'Pwic't-Told  Tall--,"  ill  wliiili  tlu>  (in  at  Stoiu^  I'ai-c  is  made  tlio  sulijoi't  of  a  wiird  tlu'iiic.     Still  iii'ari-r  the  liasu 

of  llu-  iiuiiiiuain  is  an  v\i|i;isili'  lakilit  known  as  the  "OKI  .Man's  Wasli-ljuwl,"  jiist  1  ii)4c  i.-injii>;li  for  the  [nii'iiosc,  Imt  full  ol  lisli,  and  from 

the  shore  of  wliiili  .1  splendid 

view  of  lvi;;le  Clitf  may  lie  h.id. 

In  the  imniedi.ite  neijLjhliorlMnd 

is  lite  Ioft\'  peak  of  Mount  I..1- 

f.nelte,    .'i.l'i;:'    feet    al>o\e    the 

-e.i,     trotn    \vlu'>e    wind-.-wept 

he, id  . I   l.mdscape  of  niarveloiis 

di\e;~itv    ,ind     lie.iutv    m.ie   be 

snr\eycil,    iiieliidiiii;    miles    of 

the  (ifeeii  Moiiiit.iiii  Rani^a-   iml 

the  entire  ai;.i.,'rei;.ition  of  White 

Mount, liii  pe.iks. 

I,e-s  th.iii  one  mile  from 
Prot'ile  House,  and  re.iehed  hy 
a  perfect  carria<,'e-idad,  i.-  I'raii- 
coiii.i's  chiefest  marvel,  known 
as  the  Flume.  Six  hundred  feet 
of  casca<les  <;o  ehurnini.;  their 
way  lliroUi,'li  a  tis>iire  who^e 
verticil  w.ills  are  sixty  feet  lii;,;ll 
and  less  than  twenty  feet  apart. 
In  this  chasm  -s  the  l"lniiie, 
aloui;  the  narrow  eoiituies  (jf 
which  a  ])I.ink-w,ilk  has  been 
built  to  permit  visitors  to  ob- 
serve more  closely  the  wonder.s 
that  nature  has  planted  aloiiLj 
this  mountain  brook.  ( )ne  mile 
south  are  the  (Veorijianna  l-".ill^, 
the    largest    yet    discovere.l    in  THH   Fl.fME,   NRAR   PROFIl.H   HOfSF,  FPANCONIA   .MOUNTAINS. 

the  niouutaiiious  districts  of  the  State,  ])lun<jins:  in  successive  lca]xs  o\i  r  two  precipices,  each  citjhty  feet  in  hei)j;ht,  atul  scattcriiifT  their 
s])ray  into  v.ipor  that  keejis  the  vicinity  drenched.  Other  inountain  or  detached  peaks  near-by  are  Lincoln,  Liberty,  I'luine,  and  liiy^ 
Coolidj^'e;  while  further  towards  the  east,  yet  in  si^ht,  are  North,  ami  vSoiith,  Twin,  Lowell,  Carri),'an  and  IIiiiitiiij,'ton,  from  any  of  which 
magnificent  views  are  obtainable. 

Turning  back  north  from  I'rofile  Hou.se,  our  artist  proceeded  went  from  Itethlehem  Junction  over  the  Maine  Central  Railway,  and 


l^'^^H^^^HI 

1 

•  ft. 

1 

- 

,^%;,'r%-           •■■'■.-• 

^--' 

H      -'-ifl-t    « 

V 

1 

*■  ■  1 

•^  ,      '                   .....     ..i,  ;    .  ,. ■■'■■■-■                ■rm^'^.r.-:-,j>^mmiS^?^f,'r-^i^..^*<>X":-:,\'^. 

'V' 

•  i  '    '       '  ;'-*♦':>.  .V'  ■. . '       -.    "'  ■■■,  -■■■    '^'"r,  •                         ■     . 

:■• 

:  ._  '.    -  .  /:-/::^ 

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.    ...  1 

,   r' 

iiicl 


hl.tl'HANIS   m;\lJ   .\NlJ   .\U)UM    \VKHSll:l#.   Nt.\l<   CRWVIOKI).   NbW   H.\.\\P>H1K1; 


39^ 


AMI'RIC.VS  \\u\di:ki,.\ni)S. 


iiitii. 
nil, 


M 


III' 


III 


aftir  a  sliort  ridi.'  UMi'licd  I'ahyaii's,  wluii'  tlii'  scviitty  of  tlii'  Wiiilo  MimiiiMiii-'  lnokr  iipmi  his  i'iira])tiirc(I  visiim  in  all  its  nlory.  Twd  niili-s 
hciuw  is  Cr.iwlord's  Ndtili,  ilif  iiatm.ii  p.iss  intu  ilu'  r.iiijji\  .iiid  lure  tiii'  \i>ilcir  li.is  liis  siii|iiisi'  .is  will  as  ailiiiiratioii  i|iiii'ki'iii'(I  liy  a  si^Iil 
of  the  "  I'lK  phalli's  lUail."  Slaiidiii),'  on  the  ]n.{//.i  ni  a  lintel  at  Ciawlcnirs,  the  eiionnoiis  hiail  .uul  trunk  seem  In  ln'  jusi  eiiii  rv;iiij;  fin.ii 
the  dee])  wuculs  near  the  eiitraiiee  to  the  ji.iss,  and  the  j;ray  of  the  (granite  slojic  serves  to  streiixtheil  the  illusion.  I'miii  the  l\lepliaiit's  Head 
Hotel  there  is  a  partietilarly  line 
view  of  the  N'oteli,  a  Hinantie 
cleft  tliroUKh  whieh  the  Titans 
may  lia\e  loived  a  wa\ ,  Imt 
wliieh  is  now  ntili-ed  \<y  the 
railroad.  It  is  from  thi^  point 
th.it  excursions  to  the  sniiiiiiit  of 
Mount  W.ishiiij^ton,  liy  w.iy  of 
the  hridle-path  ojieiied  by  Thos. 
J.  Crawford  in  l."*li»,  arc  m.ide. 
A  great  majority  of  persons  pre- 
fer the  e.isier  ascent  hy  llle.iiis 
of  the  coj,'-wheel  r.iilroad,  which 
was  coni]ileted  in  iMi!',  .ind  re- 
(piiies  one  and  oiie-h.ill  hours 
to  make  the  trip,  the  fart  bein^j 
ifii.oo.  The  snniinil  of  Mount 
Washinjjton  is  li,!".'.!  leet  aliovc 
sea  level;  and  as  the  rail  (list. nice 
is  three  miles,  the  j,Made  is  \ery 
jjreat,  in  one  i>lace  heinjj;  a  rise 
of  one  foot  ill  three,  or  .'l;l  |)er 
cent.  To  secure  perfect  safely 
the  track  is  comiKised  of  three 
rails  bolted  to  a  trestle  of  heavy 
timbers,  the  center  rail  beiiij^ 
an  immense  \vrony;li  t  -  i  roll 
ladder,  with  rounds  knn  inches 
apart,  into  which  the  coys  of 
the  locomotive  drive-wheils  fit, 
and  thus  dray;  the  train  np  the 
steep,  a.s  well  as  control  it  in 
making    the    descent,    thnufjh 

automatic  air-brakes  are  used  in  emcrjiencies.  Hut  thnnyli  the  rail  route,  in  swinyini;  seats,  is  more  comfortaJ)lc  and  expeditious,  if  time 
be  any  consider.ition,  the  carriayc-road  is  almost  as  i)o]nilar  with  travelers,  who,  as  a  rule,  are  willing:  to  make  sacrifices,  if  by  so  doiiiy 
they  obtain  the  reeompen.se  of  grander  sights.     As  our  artist  had  made  the  ascent  of  I'ike's  I'eak  bv  car,  he  concluded  to  take  in  the  larger 


CR,\\Vrr>l»[)   HOUSE  NOTCH,  M  \V   HWll'SHIRE. 


MOUNT   \V.\SHIN(ni..)N    AM)  COli-VVIIbHI.    HMIKOAIi,   WHIIK    MUUMAl.NS. 


40(.i 


ami:rica\s  \V()xi)i-:rlaxds. 


'I  I. 

1 1 


III' 


ii[l> 


!  i 


I  I" 

rii! 


cxjit'riLiK'c  of  gair.in,!,'  the  sumiiiil  of  Mount  W-ishiiii^imi  In-  sl.ii^i',  Uku  Ir'  iiuliIu  Ik-  IntUi' aMo  to  ri'i-.oil  tlic  (.-ontrast.  TIiohkIi  tlii'  distance 
by  rail  is  only  three  miles,  hy  \vai;oni<iail  it  is  ten,  so  windin;^  is  the  wav,  ami  to  add  to  the  distress  of  the  latter  journey,  the  fust  fo\ir 
miles  is  toilsome  without  revealiuy;  an\-  seener\  worth  the  elfurt  of  a  j^lanee.  lint  alio\e  the  four-mile  jioiut  the  dreary,  tame  and  desolate 
aspect  is  succeeded  liy  a  landscape  that  cannot  be  excelled  lor  niaj^niriccnce.  It  is  lure  that  the  cre.ilciuif  sta.^e  einer.i;es  from  the  woods 
that  hides  the  prospect  and  moves  out  upon  the  bare  crai^s,  and  the  I.edi;c  House,  or  Ilall-Way  vStation,  is  reached,  where  a  stop  is  made  to 
rest  the  horses  and  i;i\e  ]>assenjj;ers  opportuuitv  and  time  to  drink  in  the  j^lories  of  the  wondrous  view  that  is  thus  pri'sented.  h'ar  down 
below  yawns  the  measureless  void  of  a  tremendous  ,i;ulf,  while  above  is  a  colossal  ]>ile  of  ijranite  that  supports  the  dome  of  W'ashiiijiton  and 
a  \vidc-spreadin>^  wilderness  of 
tumult.  I.iiokin.i^iilf  in  the  dis- 
tance from  this  natural  observa- 
tory, the  presidential  lieaks  of 
Mounts  Adams,  Jelfersi.n  and 
Madison  art  idaiuly  visible, 
who-e  a.ued  sides  arc  cloven 
by  deep  crevasses  and  their 
feet  are  hidden  in  <,'ori;es  of 
tremendous  depths;  while 
a  .glance  dc.„nv\.ird  over  the 
ra;,'i;ed  to]is  of  the  forest  trees 
discovers  IVabody  Cilen  and 
river,  with  a  while  spot  in  the 
latliuL;  distance  that  bv  aid  of 
glass  is  fi'iind  to  be  the  Craw- 
ford Ilou-e.  l-'ollowiny^  the 
vale  o\it  to  its  entrance  upon 
the  Andro-,co<4yin  Meadows,  the 
vision  sweeps  up  Mount  M  iriali, 
and  traversintj  the  Confederate 
Peaks  to  the  summit  of  M(.i\mt 
Caiter  finally  rests  upon  the 
brow  of  W.ishim^ton,  which  is 
almost  overhead. 

I'Voni  the   Led^fe   the  road 

continues  its  zi^,;.i;j;  wav  up  the  steep  and  around  ilan;;erouslv  ii.irrovv  terraces,  over  which  a  ))arty  of  excursionists  in  a  si.\-hor.se  wagon 
tumbled  to  their  death  on  the  ;!d  of  July,  IfOi't,  the  only  accident  that  has  ever  occurred  in  making  tlie  remarkable  descent  here,  however 
perilous  appears  the  passaj^e;  and  this  tr.i!.iedy  was  due  to  a  drunken  driver.  In  describing  the  ascent  above  Midway  Hon.se,  Mr.  Drake 
thus  writes:  ".\.  sh.irp  turn  around  a  led.i,'e,  and  the  southeast  wall  of  Tuckcrman's  Ravine  rose  up  like  a  wraith  out  of  the  forest. 
Nearer  at  hand  w.rs  the  Head  of  1  luntington's,  while  to  the  ri,i.;ht  the  -one  of  Washington  loomed  up  gradually,  more  than  a  thousand  feet 
hi},'her.  A  little  to  left  you  lnok  down  into  the  gloouiv'  depths  of  I'inkluini  defile,  the  v.dley  of  Ivllis  River  aiul  the  ,Saco  \'allev  to  Xortll 
Conway.     The  Idue  course  of  the  I'illis,  which  is  nothing  but  a  long  cascade,  the  rich  green  of  the  Conway  intervales,  the  blanched  peak  of 


^i.irvw   l..\KF,  NFW   HA.MPSHIRE. 


AMIvklCA'S  \VC)Xni-;RUA\I)S. 


401 


Cliociirua,  the  sappliiri.'  siiinniits  of  Ossipcc  Moiiiitaiiis  vvtiv  ])Ksi-iito(l  in  (.■(injnnctioii  with  the  l)hick  and  h\mii(I  walls  of  the  ravine,  and  the 
iron-<^iay  moss  of  the  jjreat  dome.  Tlie  craj;  on  wliiell  I  stood  leans  out  oxer  the  mountain  like  a  bastion,  from  whieh  the  speetator  sits  the 
deeji-entrenehed  \alle\s,  the  risers  wliieh  wash  the  feet  of  the  monareh,  and  the  loni;  line  of  snmniits  whieh  jiartake  of  his  >,Mandiiir  while 
making;  it  all  the  more  impressjxc.  iMdni  lure  the  strikin;,^  speetaele  of  fonr  j;reat  northern  ]K'aks,  their  naked  snmniits,  their  sides  seamed 
with  i>ld  and  new  slides,  anil  lleeked  with  snow,  eonstanlly  enlary;ed.      There  were  sonic  terrible  rents  in  the  side  of  Clay,  red  as  hall-elosed 

wonnds,  and  in  one  jilaee  the 
mountain  seemed  riven  to  its 
eenter.  It  was  this  jjnlf  that 
the  first  elimber  said  it  was  sueli 
a  preeipiee  he  eould  searee  dis- 
cern the  bottom.  The  rifts  in 
the  walls  of  the  ravine,  the 
blasted  fir-trees  leanin;;  over 
the  abvss,  and  clutehiiiij  the 
roeks  with  a  death-yrip,  the 
roi'ks  themselves,  toriiieiited, 
fonni<lable,  impending;,  as- 
tounded by  their vixid  portrayal 
of  the  formless,  their  sn};,i;es- 
tions  of  the  a.i;ony  in  whieh 
these  mountains  were  bron>;ht 
forth." 

Hut  if  there  be  ),'randenr  in 
the  ehaotic  landscajie  whieh 
spreads  out  before  the  startled 
vision  of  the  sjieetaior  on  the 
mountain  breast,  wli.it  must  be 
the  sensation  inspired  by  the 
tremendous  view  that  isaffordi-d 
from  the  summit?  It  is  'he 
feelinij  of  complete  separation 
from  the  earth,  of  sn-peiisioii 
in  the  sky  and  lookiiii;-  down 
upon  the  world  below.  '1  he 
UPPER    INC.KSON  FALLS.  WILD-CAT  RIVER.  NEW  HAMPSHIRE.  exhilaration    that    comes    from 

conqnerinjr  a  mij^lily  thinjj;  the  solemnity  of  beiiiK  face  to  face  with  iniinit) .  lint  j.;radiially  an  orderly  array  of  ma<;nificeiice  and  compre- 
lu'iisible  j;raiidenr  appears,  as  jieak  upon  peak  is  resolved  into  defin.ible  eliaiiis,  clusters,  or  detaelied  masses.  Hills  draw  apart,  valle\s 
open,  .streams  and  ea.scades  sparkle  in  their  tortuous  beds,  while  the  skirts  of  the  mountains  are  dotted  with  rich  colors  and  the  meadow- 
lands  become  a  frinj^e  of  emenild  eneoinpassini;  tliiir  irrej;\ilar  bases.  Almost  independent  of  the  will,  the  eye  wanders  from  sninmit  to 
snnnnit,  making  a  slow  circuit  of  the  creiiated  horizon,  until  it  is  arrested  b\'  a  va.st  spread  of  j;leaniing  white  that  at  first  sight  may  be 

an 


1 1 


nil 


402 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


inist;iki.'n  for  a  luininons  cKmil  in  tlio  scmtlR-a.st.     .More  careful  observation  reveals  tliat  it  is  tlie  ocean,  one  Inindrefl  miles  away,  and  by  tlie 
help  of  telescope  vessels  may  he  (li>tinyuislie(l,  and  e\en  tlie  nuinlier  of  sails  which  eai-li  craft  earriis. 

.Vma/.int;,  splendid,  and  even  thrillini:;  as  the  view  nni|ne>lionalily  is  from  the  top  of  While  Monntain,  \i't  it  cannot  compare,  for 
either  extent  or  i,'rande\ir,  with  that  obtained  from  the  summit  of  Tike's  Peak.  Not  so  ^wM  in  altitude  as  its  nobler  rival  of  the  Rockies, 
it  is  wanting;  in  other  conditions 
to  make  it  equal,  chief  of  which 
is  the  usually  heavy  and  h.r/.y 
atmosphere  that  is  due  to  ]>rox- 
imity  to  the  sea,  thus  interferin.tj 
with  the  raniLje  of  vision,  and 
more  frequently  interposing 
clouds  to  shut  off  the  view  en- 
tirely. 

( )n  the  highest  jioint  of 
Mount  \Va>hini;ton  the  Ciov- 
erument  has  built  an  obsir\a- 
tory  and  si;_;n,d  station,  and  a 
very  excellent  hotel  has  also 
been  added,  for  the  aceonuno- 
<l,ition  of  th>>-e  who  desire  to 
>peud  a  nii^lit  at  this  j^reat 
height,  and  to  experience  the 
.sensation  of  a  snow-storm  in 
mid-smnmer.  A  curiosity  re- 
cently added  to  the  otlur 
attr.ietions  of  the  suuimit  is  an 
electric  search-li,y;lit  of  Iihi.oik) 
candle-power,  at  a  cn-i  of 
♦  7,<MI0,  which  is  controlled 
from  the  f<iot  of  the  tower  by 
electric  motnrs.  Tele;.;r.i]ihic 
si.Ljnals  flashed  b\-  this  monster 
li.!.;ht  have  been  interjireted  at 
Pcvrtland,  Maine,  which  is 
ei};hty-five  miles  distant. 

From   Mount  \\"ashni!,;ton, 


LIOHT-HOllSh:    IN   THH    HARBOR  OF   PORTLAND,   MAINE. 


the  tourist  who  deli.L;lits  to  revel  amonjj  tlie  wonderful  scenes  of  this  tuinultuary  and  anarcliisMc  rejjion,  where  nature  i.s  in  disarrangement 
throu);h  the  operation  of  forces  that  lonjj;  since  have  spent  themselves,  usually  proceeds  west  by  Thorn  Hill,  thronjjii  Carter  Notch,  and  tliiis 
arrives  at  the  villa>;e  of  Jackson,  the  center  of  another  district  of  jjreat  scenic  interest.  The  town  is  but  a.  handful  of  pretty  white  cottages, 
but  it  is  in  the  quiet  isolation  of  a  mo'intain-engirdled  vale,  and  the  very  lonesoiiicness  of  its  situation  gives  the  place  on  inexpressible 


LOWHH  tiAIKWAY  TO  CRAWKORIJ  NOTCH,  WHIIH  MOUNTAINS,  NBVV  HAMPSHIRK. 


404 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


I  I 


I    1 


■III 


tasciiKUioii,  for  it  is  li!-;e  nui'tiiis^  cluirfnl  c(Mii]).\iiy  in  tlio  v.ilKy  of  (ksolatinii.  TIic  largest  house,  cotiiniaiuliiiK  respect  by  reason  of  its 
si/e,  aiut  excitiiij;  rewiiiKu  fur  its  Imly  ]uir|)osis,  is  a  frame  clmrfli,  in  whose  belfry  the  |)ij;eons  swarm,  iindisliirbcd  by  the  deep  tones  of 
the  bell  that  snniiUdiis  the  hanilet  to  \vi)rshi|).  How  inoiunfuUy  it  ])eals  ont  the  first  stroke,  as  if  awakeninjf  the  town  fruni  sleep,  so  still  is 
the  place;  but  from  a  full  it  becomes  a  chime,  as  the  notes  reverberate  from  hill  to  hill,  nnti'  the  noise  is  reassuring,  that  however  lifeless 
things  may  ha ,  seemed,  the  church-bell  has  power  to  stir  the  people  into  mental  if  not  physical  activity.  All  about  are  mountains,  Kagle, 
Wild-Cat,  Tin,  Iron  and  Thorn, 
the  sides  of  which  have  been 
cleared  of  their  forest  growths 
and  stone,  and  brought  under 
cultivation,  w'.iich  add  mate- 
rially to  the  picturescjue  land- 
scape of  which  the  village  is 
the  natural  center. 

Wild -Cat  River  cuts  the 
town  of  Jackson  in  twain,  a 
stream  which  is  in  fact  a  mount- 
ain cataract,  filling  the  air  about 
with  its  incessant  roar.  Williin 
less  than  two  luiuilred  yards 
of  the  place  the  river  makes 
a  swift  descent  over  granite 
ledges,  which  it  has  waslied  to 
ahuost  whiteness,  and  ne.ir  the 
bridge  it  is  di\  ided  by  a  large 
bowlder  into  two  cascades  that 
are  half-concealed  by  the  rich 
foliage  that  bends  down  to  re- 
ceive the  refreshing  spray.  The 
crest  of  the  falls  is  split  by  huge 
stones  and  the  m.iin  stream  has 
overcome  the  obstacles  in  its 
way  by  cutting  a  passage  under 
the  rocks,  after  which  it  shoots 
down  the  ledge  and  becomes  a 
faithful  servant  to  a  miller, who 

has  utilized  its  power.     Besides  these  cataracts  there  are  several  others,  principal  among  which  is  Goodrich  Falls,  at  which  point  the  river' 
pours  its  restless  flood  o\er  a  precipice  eighty  feet  high.     Ihidal  \'eil  Cascades  are  a  mile  further  up  the  river,  but  there  is  a  pleasant  bridle- 
path all  the  way,  and  visitors  to  this  district  rarely  fail  to  ])ay  their  respects  to  this  very  interesting  jiart  of  the  stream.     The  bed  of  the  river 
is  full  of  enormous  bowlders,  and  its  flow  takes,  accordingly,  an  erratic  course;  in  fact,  in  every  direction  save  upward.     At  the  cascades 
the  stream  is  parted  by  an  elevation  in  the  center  of  the  ledge,  and  thus  falls  in  a  double  sheet  at  almost  right  angles,  where,  gathering  new 


MINOTS  l.EOrjK   I.IGHT-HOUSH,  OFF  COHASSET,  MASSACHUSETTS. 


reason  of  its 
Ice])  toiR'S  of 
ep,  so  still  is 
ivever  lifeless 
tains,  Ivigle, 


loint  the  river" 
easant  bridle- 
'd  of  the  river 
the  cascades 
[atliering  new 


PROSPHCT  IROM  THR  SUMMIT  OH  WHITE  MOUNTAINS,  NKW  HAMPSHIRK. 


4-0 


AMIvRICA'S  WOXDKRLANDS. 


i 


irii 


!  I 


I  I'* 

nil 


•iircc  a.i;;iiii,  it  i;nes  nisliintj  away  to  jdin  f!io  Androscoyijin,  wliiih  brars  its  waters  to  tlu'  sea.  A  tour  of  tlie  liionntains  liavinjj  hcfii  coin- 
l>lil<.(l,  our  pilot' ii^raiilur  (louUKil  ii]"iu  liis  tracks  and  riturm-d  to  tin.'  I'rofdL-  House,  from  wliicli  road-terniiiMis  hv  crossid  tlu  twelve-mile 
interval  to  North  Woodstock,  and  llkre  took  train  on  tlie  Coneord  and  Montreal  Railroad  for  [loints  of  attraetioti  towards  the  southwest. 
'I'he  inonnlain  reijion,  lu)\ve\ir,  was  not  yet  en;irely  jiassed,  for  many  |)romiuent  elevations,  sueli  as  Mounts  Moosilanke,  Teeuniseli, 
'l'ri-|i\  r.iniid,  Weleh,  I'isher,  Slinson,  Irael,  and  others,  eontinued  in  view  until  .\shland  was  reached,  at  which  ]ilace  a  stop  was  maile  to 
\isit  Sipiani  Lake,  one  of  the  uiost  exipiisite  sheets  of  water  in  the  world.  It  is  irrej^idar  in  shape,  hut  about  six  miles  lou)^  bv  lialf  as  many 
broad.  The  expanse  is  not  i;reat,  bin  the  be.inties  which  it  jiresiuts  are  charming  in  the  extreme.  ()\cr  its  bosom  are  scattered  numerous 
islands  which  are  very  bowers  of  beanl\  ,  ^M-eu  with  thickets  of  h.i/el  and  mari,'ined  with  mosaics  of  wild  tlowers.  The  waters  are  of  sueli 
limjiid  purity  that  they  swarm  with  fish,  which  m.iy  be  seen  friskinj,'  and  playing  tag  twenty  feet  below  the  surface.     The  shores  are  banked 

but   level,  and  alouij   the  edsre   is  a   perfect  earri,i<'e-road,  makinir  a  

circuit  of  twenty-one  miles,  affording  the  finest  excursion  that  can  be  |  ^ 

made  by  vehicle.     Scuiam  Lake  is  separated  from  Lake  Winnipiseojjee  I  I 

bv  a  strip  of  land  two   '■ 

miles    wide,    and    the  i  t 

villaije  of  Center   Har- 
bor   lies    on    the    west 

shore    of    the     latter, 

where  steamer  uia\  be 

taken     for    a     ride    to 

Woliboroitj^h,  twelve 

miles    distant.       Tile 

tri|)  is  a  delijjhtfnl  one 

tliroin,'h  narrow  clian- 

iiils  bitween  islands  of 

excccdin;^     i)eaut\-,    so 

thickly    strewed   o\cr 

the  water  as  to  make 

the  w.iy  a])i)ear  like  a 

l.ib\  rintli.      .Six  miles 

uorlhwcst   of  tlie  lake 

is 


OMi-WUFKI.    PAIIAVAY  IP   Ml.   \V ASUlN(VIO\. 


MONl'MRNT   AT   PI  YWOPTll    UDC.K,   MASSACHl'SFTTS. 


an  eminence   o\er 
two    thousand     feet 

high,  known  as  Red  Hill,  which  is  annnallv  vi>ite-d  bv  manv  hundreds  rf  tourists.  There  is  a  good  carriage-road  to  the  base,  but  the 
ascent  is  so  steep  and  rugged  that  b\'  foot  nr  horse-back  is  the  oiiiv  means  for  gaining  the  summit.  Though  not  nearly  so  lofty  as  a 
score  or  more  of  the  nioiiiilains  we  lia\c  nu  lUidiied,  yet  visitors  maintain  that  the  view  afforded  from  its  peak  exceeds  in  extent  and  lliag- 
nificeiice  that  obt. lined  from  the  nbscrv.itorx  of  Mount  Washington  or  the  summits  of  aii\'  of  its  brothers.  This  superiority  is  due  to  the 
absence  of  iiiter\eii!ng  jieaks,  as  Rcil  Hill  is  isol.ited,  and  overlooks  a  comparatively  lc\el  district,  in  which  >S(inam  and  Winnipiseogee 
Lakes  are  coiispicnouslv  visil)le,  with  tlu  ir  r.iggcd  shore-lines  and  lovelv  islands  clearly  derinable. 

l-"roin  W'olfborough  the  route  was  e.i^l  by  the  >Liine  Central  Railroad  to  Portland,  and  thence  by  steamer  m  Hoston.     There  are  many 
beautiful  places  in  the  vicinity  of  Portland,  and  ])articiilar)y  about  the  popular  summer  resorts  jf  Mount  Desert  Island  and  Bar  Harbor;  but 


HKiiJAi.  \i;ii.  CASCAUL,  wiiiii:  ^u)^I^^Al^^ 


1 1 , 


•  IlK 


fiilfli 
I'll! 


408 

imicli  must  be  sacrificed  to  tlic  limit  of  .s]i,ice, 
tor  no  one  Imok  cm  ever  contain  pielnres  of 
all  the  nalnral  scenery  that  is  worthv  to  be 
reprodiiceil.  Anionij:  other  jiiu'tiis^raphs 
taken  in  and  about  rortlaud,  we  lia\e  room 
for  only  one,  vi/..:  the  lii^ht-housc  on  Cape 
Mli/.abeth,  in  the  harbor,  a  dreary  desolation 
of  stone,  where  the  ocean  is  treacherous  and  a 
warninj^to  incoinin<;  vessels  is  indispensable. 

Boston  is  historic  ground,  aroiind  which 
are  niauv  sacred  spots  ])erpetuated  in  ]nitri- 
olic  memories.  It  is  a  ^neat  cit>  ;  but  tlie 
traveled  visitor  is  indifferent  to  numicipal 
sij,dits,  and  is  restless  to  ])a\  his  trilmlc  of 
respect  aiul  curios-t;  to  those  shrines  that 
keep  in  minil  the  reverent  character  of  the 
Puritan,  anil  the  heroism  of  the  Re\-olution- 
ary  soldier.  It  is  hard  to  resist  this  iufec'inus 
temptation  to  photoj^raph  mouunuiUs  and 
battle-fields,  when  one  is  walkinj;  \ipou  the 
very  fanu)us  dust,  and  readiu>j  inscriptions 
recordini;  the  valor  of  those  who  fouyht  for 
our  National  Independence;  but  this  is  a 
volume  devoted  to  American  sc-  nery  rather 
than  to  .\merican  history,  a  subject  which 
oujflit  to  inspire  eijual  ])alriotic  sentiment, 
and  monnmeutal  trib\Ues  nnist  therefore  be 
tiuiitted,  or  cas\iall\'  mentioned  by  incidental 
reference,  as  may  appear  proi)er. 

I-'rom  Boston  our  artist  proceeded  b\-  a 
train  on  tlie  (  >ld  C".  ilnnv  Kailnjad  to  Ci>h.!.-.set, 
a  town  which  it  has  been  truthfully  said 
marks  one  of  the  mii>t  iuterotiui;,  most 
wildly  beautiful  bits  of  naturv  on  anv  coast. 

"Tuis  town,"  let  it  be  said,  "marks 
one  of  the  must  iulereslini;,  must  wildly 
beautiful  bits  of  nature  on  au\'  known  coast. 
In  this  situatiiin  are  to  be  foun<l  all  the 
beauties  an<l  all  the  termrs  which  ocean 
scenes  can  compass.  The  history  of  Cohasset, 


AMHRIC.V'S  \VU\DKRL.\M)S. 


THE  OLD  TOWEK   Al"   NEWPORT,   RHODE   ISLAM). 


AMICRICA'S  WOXDl'RLAXDS. 


4"9 


vm£2!SSSISQ 


for  the  ]>ast  two  Innulrcd  ami  fifty  years,  lias  in  it  an  cK'nicnt  iHTSiinal  to  every  civilized  iH'ojile  on  the  k'"'"'i  since  all  have  sent  their  ships 
and  their  travelers  this  way,  and  jidded  names  to  tlie  deatli-Kill  hereahonts.  The  cra^s  and  ledj;es  alonj,'  these  shores  ha\e  taken  part  in 
ocean  tragedies  for  (generations,  and  have  witnessed  more  of  hniiian  snfferinj,'  and  the  extremit\-  of  distress  than  often  f.dls  to  the  lot  of  natnral 
scenes.  I'pon  their  faces  the  oeiaii  suri^es  ha\e  never  ceased  to  dash  theniseixes  since  tile  nioniiiif;  of  creation.  Here  the  whiteness  never 
goes  out  of  tile  line  of  surf;  and  often  the  conditions  are  of  shattered  waters  flyinfj  in  the  air,  of  roaring  hreakers  crashinj;  into  fragments 

along  the  rocks,  of  great  masses 
of  hillows  lashed  into  fury,  and 
resistless  in  their  commonest 
attacks  by  ail  except  the  natural 
barriers  to  their  ])rogress  here 
set  np." 

Heanti  fnl,  commanding, 
stirring  as  the  scenes  are  about 
Cohasset's  bounding  slu)res,  yet 
the  tragedies  which  have 
occurred  in  the  treacherous 
a])proaehes  to  the  harbor  are  both 
nuinerous  and  heart-appalling. 
On  these  very  rocks,  where  the 
waters  usually  play  in  such  happy 
al)andon,  more  than  seven  score 
of  persons  from  a  single  ship — 
the  S/.Jii/iii,  iuOctolier,  \xW — 
were  dashed  to  their  deaths,  and 
dis.isters  attended  by  less  luor- 
taiilv  became  so  common  that 
the  Ciovernnient  erected  a  light- 
house at  .Minot's  Ledge,  which 
is  two  u\iles  off  Cohasset  Point, 
where  the  hidden  rocks  arc  most 
dangerous  to  shipping. 

From  Cohasset  the  trip  was 
.south,  by  ,'he  Old  Colony,  along 
the  Atlantic  shore,  passing 
nianv   points  of  great    interest. 


THE  Cl.ll-I  S  AT   NEWPORT,   RHODE   ISLAND. 


though  for  scenery  there  is  nothing  but  marshes  and  a  waste  of  sandy  beach.  ]?ut  on  die  way,  Daniel  Webster's  farm  is  pointed  out,  located 
on  a  level  strip  between  tile  railroad  and  .M.irslilleld  \eck,  where  it  would  a])pear  that  raising  clams  might  be  more  profitalily  ])ursued  than 
the  growing  of  grain  or  veget.ible.  Onaint  scenes,  reminders  of  the  olden  times  when  stage-co.aching  was  the  most  luxurious  mode  of  travel, 
and  ])ot-hooks  and  hangers  were  adjuncts  of  the  crane  that  rendered  the  fire-place  the  sole  convenience  for  cooking,  pass  in  review  and  are 
a  source  of  the  greatest  interest  to  those  of  a  retrospective  and  reflective  turn  of  mind.     Here  and  there  we  observe  old  rnritan  churches 


J 


410 


AMl'.RICA'S  WONUl'KLAMJS. 


'|.    1 


II' 

ft' 


i  !  '' 


I'l 


•Hill  i(iu.ill\  (llll-l;l^l1i(llK•ll  ]H'0]ik\  wlid^f  a|iIH':il- 
.iiK'cs  iiulii-.iti- tli.il  llu\  li.iM'  iiol  luiii  w  i(U  K' 
ilistriliuti'd  >iiui' till'  M.i\  llnwir  l.nnUil.  'I'Ikii' 
is  a  Mills  St.nu!i~li,  jdlui  Aldm  and  I'lisciila  in 
i\iT\'  viila>;i-,  ami  the  Inmsis,  in  many  casts, 
till  of  a  tinii'  quite  as  riumti-.  Indiid,  in  the 
little  bnt  ancient  handet  of  Ciiei'uliu^li,  nkIuiIi  is 
willlin  a  liall-d^i/in  miles  ol  Ciilias--it,  and 
tu  ice  as  far  tn  .\allta^ket,  an  intensely  f.i^ldnna- 
lile  resdit,  <ine  mas'  see  the  identical  old  oaken 
bucket  and  thecra/y  sweep  liv  which  "drippinjj 
with  coolness  it  iom'  linui  tlu-  will,"  which  in- 
spired Woodworth's  iumiortal  lay  in  1"*17. 
There,  too,  is  tiie  same  ohi  house,  liidiuy;  hehiuil 
a  clnni])  of  ttees,  under  which  the  poet  sat  and 
dr.ink  from  the  "ftdl  blushiui;  ,L;olilit,"  which, 
alas  for  hmnin  we.ikness,  he  re.dK'  coveted  less 
than  a  be.iker  of  good  wine. 

Twinty-tive  miles  south  of  Cohasset  is  the 
historic  town  of  I'K mouth,  and  ri,>;ht  in  front  of 
it  is  a  h.irltor  made  by  a  lon;^  neck  of  land, 
parallel  with  the  shore,  and  !;;'ow.!  as  the  Cow- 
Y.ird,  in  which  the  M.iytlo-.  came  to  anchor 
witii  her  precious  carijo  of  f,  ■  .fatliers,  on  a  bleak 
December  day  in  lili'o.  Mr.  Sanuiel  Adams 
Drake  has  written: 

"I'Kniinith  is  the  American  Mecca.  It 
docs  not  contain  the  tond)  of  the  jirophet,  bnt 
the  rock  of  the  forefathers,  their  traditions  and 
their  j^raves.  The  first  impressions  of  a  strani,'er 
are  disappointinj^,  for  the  oldest  town  in  New 
Muf^l.ind  looks  as  fresh  as  if  built  within  the 
ccntnrv.  There  is  not  unich  that  is  su;;j;estive 
of  the  old  life  to  be  seen  there.  ICxccpt  the 
hills,  the  heaven,  and  the  sea,  there  is  nothing 
antique;  save  a  few  carefully  cherished  relics, 
nothing  that  has  survived  the  day  of  the  Pil- 
grims." .And  another  writer  of  nciut  times 
declares  "it  would  l)e  diflicult  to  n.une  anv 
other  place  in  America  with  such  a  profoundly 


l'L'R(3ATORY  CHAS.M,   NEAR   NEWPOiM,  RIIODH   ISLA.NU. 


AMHRICA'S  \\(,)\I)I':RL.\\DS. 


411 


intfrestin^!;  liistorii-al  cviMit  ns  tliMt  wliicti  has  iiiiKlo  the  nana'  of  I'lynioiitli  Unck  fDivwr  faniiius  1,1  tile  aiiiials  of  (k'votioii  and  fri'cdoni. 
I'liwanls  of  liliy  llioMsand  |ktmiiis  coiiu-  luiv  cmtv  suiiniu-r,  laakiny;  u-viTciil  i)ilj;riiiiaj^i's  to  llio  ciadli-  of  Aimiicaii  ii\  ili/atioii.  I'"(/r 
tlusi',  and  for  all  who  lovi-  the  anli(|\R-  and  historii',  rhnioiuh  has  \vill-ni),'li  tinrivak'd  attractions.  IKri'  is  the  reiiownid  ri>ik,  down  by 
the  water-side,  overareluil  by  a  stately  granite  canopy ,  in  whose  top  are  the  hones  of  several  of  the  l'ilj,'riins.  ['\t  in  the  villajje  ri^cs  the 
massive  strnctnre  of  Pil^^rini  Hall,  consecrated  to  relics  and  memorials  of  the  first  colonists.  Near  this  shrine  is  tile  conrl-lKHise,  with  rare 
records  and  ducnmeiils  of  the  .se\enteenth  ccnlnry.     On  a  noble  hill  rises  the   i'il^;rini   National   Monnnicnt,  a  vast  pile  of  carved  granite 

ciouiikI  by  a  \ery  impressive 
•St. line  of  l'",iitli,  forty  feet  hi,i;h, 
and  the  larj^'cst  stone  lij;nre  in 
the  world. 

"Ihirial  Hill  is  one  of  the 
most  iiUcreslinj,'  localities  in 
New  I'ai>,'laiid.  (  )n  every  side 
are  the  tombs  and  nionumeiits 
of  the  founders  of  the  .State  and 
their  descendants.  Above  the.se 
sacred  };ra\es  the  pleased  eye 
wanders  over  an  e.\(|nisite  ])aiio- 
rama  of  sea  and  shore,  lonely 
islands,  far-reachiny  proiiRm- 
tories,  and  distant  blue  hills,  out 
across  the  blue  sea  to  w  here  the 
sandy  St  rand  of  Cape  Cod  bonnils 
the  view,  low  down  on  the  hori- 
zon. On  this  bleak  summit 
stood  the  fortified  loi;-cluirch 
and  watch-tower,  the  former 
bearing-  six  three-ixiiiiul  cannon 
on  its  flat  roof,  and  the  latter 
occupied  by  \  i.t;ilant  sentinels." 
It  is  about  forty  miles  from 
I'lynioulli  to  Newport,  Rhode 
Island,  one  of  the  nltra-fashion- 
able  summer  seaside  resorts, 
and  thither  our  artist  repaired 

to  take  views  of  that  vicinity.  Newport  is  not  only  famous  for  its  fine  bathinj;  beach,  elegant  villas,  and  its  harbor  specially  adapted  for 
yacht-raciuif;  there  is  much  more  to  recommend  the  city  to  visitors  than  these  means  of  recreation  and  ]ilcasant  vanities.  Commer- 
cially, Newport  is  a  metropcdis  of  looms;  historicilly,  it  is  a  city  of  great  conse<inence;  and  scenicallv,  a  ]ilace  of  cxtraordinavv  interest. 
The  Old  Tower  at  Newport  has  been  for  cent\irics  an  object  of  curious  eni|uiry  and  patient  investii^atiou.  ImU' many  years  the  oi)inion 
obtained  .i;euerally  that  it  was  a  relic  of  the  Korsemen's  discovery  and  occupation  of  the  country,  five  hundred  years  before  the  time  of 


NEGRO-HKAD  CI  ll-PS,   NEWPORT,    KHODK    ISI..A.\D. 


■)'-' 


AMI'IUICA'S  \\(»\I)1-:RI,A\I)S. 


'1 1. 

I 

I  , 


1 1,1 
III' 


CdIuiiiIhis,  and  lli;it  in  sonic  \v.i\-  lliu  Imildiii),'  w.i-;  coiuuitnl  with  hnii.lic  wnrsliip.  'I'lii'  Iirniils  of  l''nj,'laii(l  and  I'ranco  iii'ifotnu-d  tliiir 
rilinioMs  t'cri-niiMiii".  uiulir  o.ik  tri'os  and  al\va\s  in  ihv  i.,  ■  n  ,iir.  lint  this  tact  did  not  alfcct  the  lidicf  current  fur  so  jiin^j  a  time  that  the 
Stiinc  'ri>\Mr  was  tile  remains 
of  either  an  edifice  or  a  monii- 
iiuiil  erected  by  liie  Oriiids. 
When  this  opinion  tinally 
changed  tc.  the  more  reasonahle 
thonj^h  e(|iially  faKe  one  that 
the  tower  was  the  relic  ol  a  lort 
hiiill  1>\  Norsemen  sia-kinns 
aliout  the  year  lis."i,  hi-.tiiriaiis 
ainnaicd  to  he  sali>lied  and  eii- 
(|uiry  ceasid  for  a  lonj^  while. 
iMiially,  iii\e-ti);ation  of  the 
Runic  iii^eriptions  on  the  I'iyli- 
tnn  Rock,  in  .Mas>achu^etts, 
re\ived  curiosity  in  the  tower, 
and  the  UMill  of  the  la>t  iiui--- 
ti,i,Mtion  is  the  opinion  thai  it  is 
the  ruins  of  a  wiiul-mill  that 
was  Iniilt  snuie  time  ill  the  se\t  u- 
teeiith  century.  The  truth, 
however,  in.iy  as  well  be  told, 
th.it  notwithstandinj;  what  his- 
torians say  to  the  coiitrar\ ,  no 
one  kni>u>,  or  is  likely  e\tr  to 
know,  when,  by  whom,  or  fur 
what  jinrpose  theso-calledtower 
was  built.  It  is  a  (|uestioii  about 
which  there  can  be  notliinjj;  but 
speculation. 

Newport  is  located  on  a 
peninsula  on  the  ea>t  shore  of 
Narra};ansitt  I!a\-,  which  is  a 
splendid  harlior,  ha\iii;j  .in 
anchorat,'e  of  thirty  feet  in  low- 
water.  The  .scenery  about  the 
place,  too,  is  very  fine,  and  is 
bronjiht  into  advantaj,'cons  view  by  a  charinin 
line  is  very  rocky  and  precipitous,  and  the  assaults  of  terrific   breakers  for  many  aj;es   have  worn  these  cliffs  into  wonderful   sliapcs. 


SOI  DIF.PS'   MONUMI-.NT  ON   FAST   I'Or.K.   NFAV    HAVHN,   C.ONNFC  lICt'T. 
lri\e-way  that  extends  .ilonj;  the  be.ich  and  entirely  around  the  city.     .\  part  of  the  sea-shore 


AMHRICA'S  WUXDKRKANUS.  413 

I'lirKHtory  CImsiii  is,  luTluips,  tlio  iimst  ri'i  .rkaUIi^  oxatii|)lc  of  wivo  force  in  tlii.s  vicinity,  though  the  nucitcy  of  water  lias,  110  doubt,  bci-n 
niiiloriid  liv  sonic  utlur  ii.itiit.il  power,  sueli  as  glacier,  eartliiiiiaku  or  volcano.  Ntar-hy  arc  HaiH;iiivj  Kocks,  where  Herkeley  is  said  to 
liavc  composed  his  Miniilr  l'liil,<s,<f^hy ;  and  less  than  three  hiiinhed  yards  distant  is  SpontinK  Cave,  where  the  surf  dashes  into  a  ^rott"  i'nd 
thence  throiii^h  a  hole  in  the  roof  to  a  height  at  times  of  fifty  feet,  alfordiii),'  a  heaiitifnl  speetacle.  Other  points  of  interest  alonj;  the  cliffs 
ate  individualixii!  Iiy  such  iinnes  as  Kastman's,  Creen's  Ivnd,  Lime  Roek,  N'evjro-IIead  Cliffs,  the  I'"lints,  tite  ^llnlplin^Js,  Coekle-Shell 
Led^e,  etc.      After  a  brief  circuit  of  Newport's  ullractious,  our  artist  depurlcd  fur  VVcstcru  Connecticut  nnd  theiue  to  Albany,  there  to  take 

boat  down  the  Hudson  for  New 
York  City.  The  route  lay 
tliroti),'h  New  Haven,  where  n 
short  stop  was  ni.ide  to  take  a 
picture  of  Ivist  Rock  and  the 
Soldiers'  Munument  thereon. 
Kast  Rock  is  a  bluff  JiiiO  feet 
hij;h,  on  the  north  side  of  the 
city,  to  which  a  beautiful 
carriage-road  leads,  and  from 
its  siiinmit  a  wide  extent  of 
channiiij,'  laiidsea|ie  is  pre- 
seiittd,  t.ikinjf  in  a  jiart  of  the 
Coiiuecticut  N'.iliey  towards  the 
■west,  Yale  Collejje  on  the  east, 
and  spanninjj  Lon^j  Island 
Sound  on  the  south,  so  that 
wliiii  the  weather  is  clear  the 
low  banks  of  LouK  Island  may 
be  dislinjjuished. 

I'roui  Xew  Has  en  the  route 
was  north  and  west  over  the 
Housatouic  system  to  Pittsfield, 
Massachusetts,  in  the  Herkshire 
re)j;ion,  a  city  of  some  17,(1(1(1 
people,  and  noted  for  its  many 
interesting  bnildinijs  of  national 
reputation,  as  well    as    for  the 

lovely  scenery  that  environs  it.  The  place  is  elegantly  situated  on  a  liifjh  plateau,  with  the  Taconic  Mountains  on  the  west  and  the 
Hoosac  Ranjje  commandiuK  the  eastern  view.  It  will  be  remembered  by  students  of  history  that  FijjhtiiiK  Parson  Allen,  of  Revolutionary 
fame,  was  pastor  of  the  I'irst  Methodist  Church  in  Pittsfield,  and  they  will  be  jjratified  to  know  that  the  buildiiij;  is  still  standiuff  and  that 
it  exhibits  little  impairincut  from  a>;e.  The  Agassi/.  Association,  with  an  enrolled  membership  of  l'(I,(KH),  has  its  heacUiuarters  in  the  city, 
and  the  place  is  also  the  seat  of  many  prominent  historical  and  educational  institutions.  Hut  it  is  the  scenery  thereabout  that  interests  us 
most.     Waconah  Falls  is  a  pretty  cascade  ten  miles  from  the  city,  and  still  nearer  is  Roaring  Urook,  that  rushes  down  the  side  of  a  mountain 


BALANCED  ROCK,  NEAR  PITTSFIELD,  MASSACHUSETTS. 


!  r 


Ml' 


414  AMl'RICA'S  WOXDlvRI-AXDS. 

ill  tiiirciiti.il  flow,  tlii(m,i;ll  a  .t;;!]'  known  ;is  '1'oiii.s'  C.i\'.\  ami  conlrilniU's   its  w.Ui'is  to  Ashley  rniul,  wlu'iuf  llii-   city's  supply  is  obtMiiR'cl. 

L.iko  Oiiot.i  is  a  picluitsiiiK-  .•-IriI  two  iiiiKs  \visl  oi   Pitt-fald,  and   iuar-l)\-  is  lialanciil    Roi-k,  one  of   tlii'  j^iiati'sl  natural  cnriositifs   in 

Anicrica.      It  is  a  tR-nifiulons  !)owUk-r,  as  tlu-  illnsttalioii  shows,  the  I'stiin.ited  wcixlil  of  wliiidi  is    I.SO  tons,  ami  is  lialaiici'd  on  a  jioint  that 

is  only  one  foot  sfpLire.      So  nnstahlc  is  its  appearaiu-e,  restiiiij  on  such  a  slender  foundation,  that   it   looks  as  if  .1  /ei)h\r  niiyht  topi)le  it 

over,  yet  so  firnily  poised  that  an  army  of  ^^iaiits  conlil  hardlv  distiirh  its  eiiuilibrinin. 

In  a  rocky  tleld  Miree  miles  from  the  city  is  another  great  natural  curiosity  known  as  Cross  Rock,  which   has  been  sinj;nlarly 

cleft,  by  some  n';known  aj^v  ucy,  __^ 

into  the  form  of  a  i)erl'eet  cross, 

to  which  a  few  superstitions  ])eo- 

]ile  formerly  attrii)uted  reniark- 

alile  he.iliiii;  \irtues,  but  which 

no  one  any  lo      -r  re,L;anls. 

Four  miles  east  of  I'ittsfu-ld 

is  the  village  of  Dalton,  when 

imir.ense  quantities  of  paper  arc 

niai'.nfactnred,  and  on  the  I'itts- 

field  line  is  located  the  mill  that 

produces    all     the    ' 'lOxeniiiK  nt 

bank-note    paper.      West   I'it'.s- 

field,  about  five  miles  fro.n  the 

city  proper,  is  also  an  iiUeixst- 

ing  place,   reposinj;   umlei    the 

shadows  of  Taconic  Monntaih-;, 

and   celebrated   as    beiiij;   tlie 

national  he,i(l(|uarters  of  wli.it  is 

known  as  the  "  Tiiited  Society 

of  Believers  in  Christ's  Second 

Appearing."    This  cnrioiis  sect 

of  .Shakeis,  disciples  of  Ann  Lee, 

founded  the  xilla^e  niiHe  tliaii  a 

century  aj;o,  and  their  "  MilKii 

nial''  church,  which  was  built 

soon  after,  still  stands  as  one  of 

.,  '  I     -ir  CROSS   I'IK.K.    M:  \K   I'lrTSIIFni),   MASS  ACIUISIiTTS, 

the  most  conspicuous  bniUlin;,'s 

in  New  Knjiland.  Massachusetts  has  bein  famous  as  tlie  home  of  religions  (leiiomin.itions  iiossessin^;  peculiar  tenets  almost  since  the  land- 
ing; of  the  l'ilj;rims;  but  from  the  d.i\s  of  Salem  witeluialt  to  the  present,  few  seits  ha\e  a.lopted  more  cniions  beliefs  and  ceremonials  than 
the  Shakers.  Yet,  to  their  credit  let  it  be  siiokeii,  they  are  ^'ood  citizens,  honest,  generous,  faithful,  i.'diistrions  and  kindly  in  all  their 
intercourse  ^\  itli  the  world  as  well  as  ainonj,'  tlieir.sehes. 

rrom  I'ittsfield  our  artist  proceeded  to  New  .\ib.iny,  and  thence  Ijy  boat  to  New  York,  where  he  joined  the  two  other  pliotojjraphers, 
the  route  of  the  third  having  been  east  l)y  way  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railroad,  which  now  remains  to  be  described. 


CHAPTHR  XII. 

ON  HISTORIC  FIELDS  OF  VIRGINIA  AND  PENNSYLVANIA. 

^   ^Hli  instructions  jjivon  upon  tlie  separation  of   our  three  plioto^rapliers,  after  leavinjj;  St.   Louis,  were  necessarily  indefinite,  and 
\      /      iliseriniinalion  in  the  selection  of  routes  and  views  had  to  be  left  to  individual  judjjnient,  since  weather  and  conditions  |)lay  an 

(g)    (S)     important  ])art  in  the  artists"  profession.     Our  third  phototjrapher  departed  somewhat  from  the  roi/e  which  he  had  selected  to 

cover,  for  after  the  separation,  instead  of  proceedin;^  directly  east  throuijh  I'enusx  Ivauia,  as  was  his  first  intention,  he  went  south 

,       to  Cincinnati  and  east  hy  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Railroad,  tliroui;h  the  lovely  Hlue  drass  re,i,nou  of  Keutiu'l-v,  makiiifj  his  first 

^^"^     stop  at  Charleston,  the  capital  of  West  Virijinia.     The  capital  is  a  small  place  of  .sometliiujf  less  than  7, <>()()  inhabitants,  and  with 

uothinjj  of  particular  importance  to  visitors  except  the  mountain  scenery  which  invests  it.     The  Kanawha  R'ver,  upon  which  the  town  is 

situated,  is  navi.i;al)le  for  small 
crafts  from  this  jjoint  to  its 
junction  with  the  Ohio,  but 
al)o\e  Charleston  the  stream  is 
treacherous  and  its  chaunel  so 
rock-iufested  that  a  skiff  can 
hardh  follow  the  stream  without 
daui^er.  Thirty  miles  from  the 
capital  are  the  Kanawha  Falls, 
or  cataracts,  v  iiere  the  river 
jfoes  tearinjj  o\er  several 
benches  of  thinly  stratified 
rocks,  and  has  scoopeil  out  a 
jiool  of  very  j;reat  depth,  where 
fishiii";;  is  said  to  be  excellent. 
On  the  north  side  t)f  the  river 
at  this  point  are  the  Gauley 
Mountains,  rising  to  a  consid- 
erable altitude,  but  so  <jently 
that  the  slopes  ha\e  l)een  re- 
claimed from  thick  timber 
growths  and  converted  into 
beautiful  farms. 

The  sceueiy  all  thronj^h 
the  valley  of  the  Kanawha  is 
t\nnulluously  );raud,   but    nine 

miles  beyond  the  falls  it  attains  its  greatest  glory.     Here  the  tremendous  cliffs  rise  vertically  to  a  height  of   1,1'IH)  feet,  and  at  a  jioiut 

called  "The  Hawk's  Nest"  a  breast  of  the  bluffs  extends  out  over  the  river  in  a  perilous  shelf  1,000  feet  high,  from  which  lofty  elevation 
415 


A   MIXKl)    rUAIN   FROM  THE  WILDERNESS. 


'i", 


/I'll 


I .    I 


n 


4  ID 

the  ri\ir  becomes  a  riblidii  of  white,  and  a 
tniiii  of  ears  riinniii,i;-  aloinj;  the  niounlaiii 
skins  on  the  opiiosite  siile  lo. 'ks  like  a 
slriiij;  of  aini>-aiUs  hurniiii;  tn  an  altaek. 
The  view  (iown  tile  \alle\-  is  one  nf  iiu  Ifa- 
l)le  inaj^nilleenee,  iireseiitinj;  as  it  does  a 
donlile  lile  of  uoUle  mountains  dressed  in 
uniforms  of  lo\el\-  yrem,  whieh,  as  tliev 
recede,  assume  a  .-kv-lphie  hue,  and  llien 
i^raihially  fade  away  iu  tlic  opalescent  mist 
of  distance. 

Thirty  miles  above  Kanawha  Falls,  at 
a  tnwu  called  Iliulou,  the  New  and  Cireen- 
Hrier  Rivers  unite  to  form  the  Kanawha 
and  here  the  scenery  is  likewise  charm- 
ingly jiictiiresque.  'I'hc  line  of  lofty  bluffs 
ecMitinues  aIon<;  the  snutli  shore  of  New 
River,  under  which  the  Chesapeake  and 
Ohio  Railroad  run..  n])on  a  hare  passage- 
way, while  the  north  line  is  marked  by 
<,fracefid  mountains  that  in  the  distance 
look  like  lines  of  beanlv  tracing  the  hori- 
zon. In  some  ]il.Kes  the  ledi,'es  ate  I.'.'IM) 
feel  hi^h,  and  the  river  so  contracted  th.it 
the  canon  is  almost  dark  at  midd.u'.  The 
view  is  further  dixersilied  by  successive 
rapids  and  cataracts,  while  at  frecpunt  in- 
tervals the  bluffs  recede,  lea\  in),'  stielchcs 
of  fertile  \ alley  that  are  in  a  Iiii^li  st.ite  of 
cultivation,  with  ]iretlv  farm  houses  diittin;r 
the  laudsc.ipe  and  impartinujau  appear.incc 
of  prospeious  animation  to  these  pleasinj>; 
interludes.  Tlic  road  follows  the  v.illivof 
("ireen-I'.rier  Ri\er  twenty  miles  further,  to 
C.dclwill,  then  pas-,is  through  White  Snl- 
]ihur  .Sprini,'s,  ami  a  few  miinites  later 
crosses  the  J.imes  Ri\er  at  Cliftcni  I'or),'e, 
where  that  romaiuic  stream,  dr.iwin^r  its 
inspiration  from  the  .\lle<,dicnies,  cuts  its 
way  tlirou^;h  the  Uluc  kid>;e  .Mountains. 


AMHRICA'S  WONDERLANDS. 


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FAI.I  INT,   SPRINf,,   NRAR   W \U\\  SPRINdS,   VIRl.lNIA. 


KANAWHA   FAl.l.S,   WbST   VIR(ilNIA. 


41  .^ 


AMERICA'S  \\( )XL)HRLA\DS. 


H. 


:!  r 


III' 

ll 
II 


Clifton  I'oii^e  is  forty  inilis  cast  of  Wliite  Siilplmr  Sprinj^s,  ami  from  this  junction  a  brancli  of  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Road  nins 
nortlK'a>t  to  form  a  connictii>ii  with  the  Shinandoah  \'alli.y  Railnia<l  at  Wajneshoroiijjh.  All  the  rej^ion  hereabout  is  very  nigjjcd,  and 
inliiMCtid  by  bcaiilifiil  stieanis  whose  .sources  are  s]uin};s  that  break  out  of  the  sides  of  niotiutaius,  and  the  waters  are  generally  more  or 
less  inipri.yualed  with  sulphur,  luyhteen  miles  due  north  of  Clifton  I'orye,  and  reached  by  a  d(  lii^htfnl  road  that  winds  throu}jli  charminjj 
vales,  is  the  villa<,'e  of  Warm  Springs,  the  capital  of  li.ilh  county,  and  adjacent  are  the  Warm  Sulphur  Sprinj^s,  which  attract  so  many 
visitors  in  search  of  health  and  fine  scenery.  It  is  a  mountain  town,  whose  population  fluctuates  with  the  .season,  for  while  the  place  is 
one  of  .some  auinialion  from  .\pril  to  October,  during  the  other  months  there  are  not  enough  people  in  the  village  to  keep  the  mud-daubers 
out  of  the  houses.  .\  more 
pictures<|ue  district,  however, 
can  sc.irccly  be  found;  too 
mountainous  to  ]ierniit  a.i^ri- 
eidture,  nature  has  given  other 
blessings  than  fertility  to  the 
region.  The  climate  is  ex- 
tremely invigorating,  aiul  the 
numerous  springs  jiossiss  me- 
dicinal jiroiHTties  of  undoubted 
value,  while  the  scenery  is  in- 
spiring to  even  the  most 
phlegmatic.  One  of  the  chief 
objects  which  serves  to  further 
diversify  the  landscajK- of  high- 
lifted  peaks,  jutting  cliffs, 
uie.indcriug  brooks,  green  ct)v- 
erts,  sylvan  .soliliules  and  clois- 
tral caverns,  is  I'alliug  Sjiring, 
a  sheet  of  rainbow-nicke<l  water 
that  dashes  over  a  ledge  seventy 
feet  high,  and  which,  seen  from 
a  little  distance,  may  be  likened 
in  appearance  to  the  white 
trailing  trosseau  of  a  bride,  so 
delicate,  graceful, and  gossamer- 
like  is  its  form,  .so  joyous  is  its 


WAITINC   you    riMH   TO  CATCH   VP. 


laughter.  After  leaving  Clifton  I'orge  the  road  winds  along  the  sinuous  vallev  of  Janus  I\i\er,  with  charniiug  views  on  both  sides,  until 
interest,  charm  and  excitement  are  superseded  1)\-  wonder  as  Natural  lliidge,  that  marvelous  curiosity  of  ages,  is  reached,  and  ])reparation  is 
immediately  made  to  examine  and  to  ]diotograph  its  astounding  formation  and  immensit)'.  This  great  natural  wonder,  which  is  an  old 
aciiuaintanee  to  all  school-children,  is  two  miles  from  the  railway  station,  at  the  termination  of  a  very  deep  g<irge,  through  which  flows  a 
cai)ricious  little  stream  called  Cedar  Creek.  At  one  time  this  feclilc  brook  may  ha\e  been  a  raging  river,  and  neetled  bridging,  but  like  an 
old  man,  it  has  lost  the  vigor  of  former  days  and  fallen  into  the  seventh  age  of  decrepitude.     Hut  the  bridge  which  Titans  might  have 


i 


'^rki 


HAWK'S   NEST   AND  CANON   OK    I'HB    KANAWHA    KIVER,   WHST    VIRGINIA. 


•i 


ipPHPHP 


^-'O 


AMERICA'S  WOXDHRLAXDS. 


I  ■! 


nil 
iiirii 


1 11 1 


ii 


c(iiistiiK-ti(l  still  sp;iiis  the  creek's  t'lep  bed  and  li:is  };r''wii  in  iiiiiililiiiess  as  the  watets  hehnv  subsided.  To  sii'^'k  with  tliathcinatical 
e\acliK--,  witlidtit  eni|'ln\  ins;  statisliial  details,  it  ina\-  be  said  lli.it  the  Xatnial  liriilj^e  spans  with  ".jvai'efld  and  aiehiteetnral  proportiims 
the  perpendieul.ir  ledv^es  , if  Cedar  Creek,  wliieli  rise  L'lin  feet  abci\e  the  stream.  The  center  I'f  its  wondrous  arch  is  fort,  feet  ill  perpen- 
dicular thiekness  ami  sixty  feet  wide,  wb.ile  the  span  is  exactly  ei.i,'hty-nine  feet.  A  public  lii};huay  utilizes  the  brid<;e,  and  it  is  the  only 
means  of  passaj;e  for  waj;ons  within  a  mile  either  way,  ext.pt  by  a  steep  bank,  \ery  ditllcnlt  to  ascend,  a  short  distance  below  tlie  ^''''Kt"- 
Just  abo\e  the  bridj;e  the  ceek  blnffs  are  broken  into  nias.ses  that  look  like  immense  bnltresses,  pinnacled  at  places  and  reaching  to  a  height 
of  J.'ii'  fiet.  The  most  impos- 
ing vi(.w  is  obt.iiiie<l  from  a 
pnsition  fifty  yards  below  the 
bridge,  where  the  arch  appears 
lioth  lighter  and  higher,  and 
the  w.ills  more  dangerously 
precipitous,  l-'roni  this  point 
of  view  this  world-famous  nat- 
ural structure  a]i|ie,irs  as  perfect 
as  if  cut  by  design;  a  cniossal 
arch  tli.it  shines  in  the  sun  like 
variei^aleil  lu.irble,  without 
slratitie.itiou  or  displacement, 
so  high  th.it  the  largest  sailing 
vessel  might  ])ass  tinder  with- 
out touching  the  ])eak  of  her 
inaiumast.  On  the  abutineiits 
of  the  iindge  are  carved  the 
iiauies  of  many  adveiuiirous 
\imths  who  .sought  fame  bv 
leaving  a  record  of  their  reck- 
less efforts  to  scale  the  di/zy 
heights  of  -Stone.  ( ieorge  W.isli- 
iugtou  w.is  Hot  above  this  am- 
bition to  win  reputatinn  bv 
car\ing  his  name  hii^lier  u]) 
than  an\'  of  his  fellow-youths, 
.iiid  for  nearly  seventy  years  he 
held  the  h"n<)r  of  being  the  most  intrepid  and  e.xpcrt  wall-climber,  for,  like  Hen  .\dam,  his  name  led  all  the  rest.     Rnt  in  IHIH  this  distinction 


GAl.RKAII'H   SPRINGS,   TFN.NRSSEE. 


.red  to  James  Piper,  of  Washington  College,  who  performed  the  da 


and  what  was  long  thought  to  be  impossible,  feat  of 


was  snrreiii 

climbing  from  the  foot  of  the  abutmeiil  to  the  top  of  the  arch,  an  exploit  so  daugeions  that  no  one  has  since  made  a  mad  attempt  to  repeat 


it.     Thomas  Jeffer 


son  was  mi 


o\ed  to  write  an  eulogium  of  this  incomii.irable  natural  wonder  in  this  wi.se: 


"The  N.itural  liridge,  the  most  sublime  of  nature's  works,  though  not  compreiieuded  nmler  the  jireseiit  head,  must  not  he  preter- 
mitted.     Though  the  sides  of  this  bridge  are  provided  in  parts  wivli  a  parapet  of  fi.xed  locks,  yet  few  men  have  resolution  to  walk  to  them 


< 

> 

5 
111 


2; 


■■■ 


A22 


AMKRICA'S  WON'DKKLANDS. 


'Ii. 


'  I 


I  fi- 
ll' 
!I 


ami  look  i)\ir  inti)  tin-  abyss.  If  the  vivw  from  llu-  loy  ho  painful  ami  iiitoli'iabk',  tliat  fioiii  lirlnw  is  (klijjlilful  in  an  ecinal  i-xUcnic.  It  is 
inipdssililo  fur  the  oinutions  arisinj^  fmni  the  siiMiini'  U<  he  felt  hex  unci  w  Ii.it  they  are  here;  .so  heaiitidil  an  areh,  so  elevated,  so  liK'it  "'"1 
.sprinjjinx,  as  it  were,  up  to  Heaven!     The  rapture  of  the  spectator  is  really  indeserihahle." 

I''roui  Natnr.il  liriil>,'e  our  photo;;rai)her  took  train  on  the  Norfolk  and  Wester.i  Railroad,  and  iiroceeiled  southwcstwardly  to  the 
jun.-tion  of  that  road  with  the  Tennessee,  \'ir,!;inia  and  ('ieorj;ia  Railroad,  hy  which  he  ])assed  into  Tennessee  as  far  as  Knoxville,  and  from 
th.it  ]iciiut  iii.ide  exenrsions  into  the  fauiims  h'.ist  Teniiessie  rei^'ioii,  where  scenes  and  scenery  are  (|uitc  unlike  anvthinjj  which  he  had  ever 
before  ti.inskrred  to  photoj^r.iphs.  Xowhcre  in  all  the  wmld  are  there  riclur  lands,  prettier  women,  braver  men,  finer  l.uidsc.i|ies,  and  bijjj^er 
prosjiects  than  Tennessee  affords.  It  is  a  region  of  boundless  resources  and  charmin^j  views,  and  possessiiif;  as  it  does  .so  many  advantages, 
it  likewise  jiresents  remarkable 
contr.ists  ami  conditions.  Where 
cm  the  scenery  abcut  Cuniber- 
l.ind  (Lip  lie  e(|U,iled,  or  the 
jiauoram.i  from  the  summit  of 
I<ooUinil  Mountain  be  m.ilched? 
lint  there  is  rvlaxatioii  in  the 
(juiet  views  of  nn.il  life  in  M.ist 
Tennessee  which  are  lure  re- 
imidiKcd,  ami  the  p.i>time 
reader  as  well  as  the  stmliut  of 
jjeo^raphy,  will  appreci.ile  the 
restful  cliaus.;e. 

Tenne»ee  is  tlie  neutral 
ground  bclweeii  North  and 
South,  becau>e  it  <liies  not  dis- 
tinctively belong  to  either,  but 
its  couliguil\  tobotli  gives  to  the 
Stale  some  of  the  characteristics 
of  each.  Adopting  sl.i\cr\,  it 
is  Southern,  but  develupiug  a 
strong  iiro-rnion  sentiment  in 
the  beginning  of  the  civil  war, 
Tennessee  became  Northern 
in  her  afTinitii-s;  but  the  s!a\e- 

marks  of  one  hundred  vc.iis  have  not  been  effaced  even  after  thirty  \ears  of  freedom,  for  in  the  country  and  \  ill. iges  there  are  (dd  .slave- 
cabins,  rickel\  ,  but  still  habit.ible,  the  homes  of  white-haired  relics  of  ante-war  times,  and  the  new  generation  th.it  has  not  been  taught  to 
tie  np  their  h.iir  with  cotton  .strings.  .Ml  o\er  the  vSouth  it  is  the  s.imc;  but  in  ICast  Tennes.see  there  is  .something  else  to  bring  back 
old  memories,  for  here  the  brazen  front  of  war  marched  through  the  land,  and  turned  its  fair  acres  of  wa\ing  gr.iiu  and  fruitful  orchards 
into  battle-fields,  furrowed  with  dead  and  harrowed  with  d.struclion.  And  yet  Tennessee  was  pro-rnion,  with  sectssion  tendencies,  because 
her  interests  were  indissolubly  linktd  with  the  vSonth.  lint  the  wouiuls  li,i\e  all  healed;  the  impetuous  youth  who  went  forth  to  battle  is 
now  a  peace-loving  grandfather;  his  daughter  was  captured  by  a  Yankee,  and  she  has  never  regretted  it,  and  the  railroad  runs  every  day 


PAs^Ai.i:  (II-  lilt-;  i-Ri:\(.n  iii'dad  I'IVi;u  tiii'oii.h  tin-  smoky  .\\i  hintains. 


I'A^iSAl.H   UH    nib    JAMKS   KIVBR    IHROUdll   THK    BLUK    RIDGE    MOUNTAINS. 


il''  ,ll 
i.  'Ill 


Mh,      ilf 


''  I'll! 


4J4 


AMI'RICA'S  WONUKRI.AXUS. 


I)it\v«.in  the  twii  scclions  with  in:iil-h:ij;s  full  of  iHaoi'-mcss.ij^i's.  \Vii\ ,  tin-  war  has  lurii  ovir  so  loii^  that  wo  ijot  mixed  in  ottr  history, 
iuul  smiuliiiu's  we  are  not  (|uiu-  eKar  wlutlier  it  was  in  ITTil  (,r  l.si;].  |,|  f.nt,  many  of  the  oM  farm  houses  alonj;  the  way  look  decidedly 
Kevohitionarx ,  and  none  of  the  niouiUaiMs  Iiave  eiiauj^ed  or  added  aU"lher  wrinkle  to  their  inipertnrliahle  faees. 

In  some  of  the  tow  MS  ilure  is  a  la/y  air  that  liaiely  stirs  the  little  wind-mills  on  the  marten-lioMs,  anil  indolence  and  shiftlessncss 
liave  tlieir  Notaries  even  here.  Vp  in  the  monntains  llure  are  shadows  of  h  ird  times,  which  are  |)rojected  into  the  \alle\s  and  villa;^es  in 
the  form  i>f  hidl-teams  and  erotehety  "  ino\er-wa;ions."  The  diiwr  has  a  ',ini;-/i(ii<l  appearance,  and  as  if  he  was  ahead  of  his  e\peela- 
tions,  and  is  willin;,'  to  wait  for  tanly  time  to  catch  up.  His  team  is  jjlad  to  encourage  the  waiting  and>itiun,  and  lies  down  in  the  street  to 
kee])  him  patient  company. 

To  c\hiliit  the  di\ersity  of 
scenes  in  Mast  Tennessee  and 
the  reso\ircefid  expedients  of  the 
l^eopli,  photoj^raph  was  made  of 
another  mounlaini-er's  te.im, 
wlkiein  the  traction  ener^v  of 
:i  hull  is  coin|)ared  with  th  it  of 
:i  hn!-.f,  to  the  humiliation,  no 
douht,  of  till-  latti  r.  In  onKr  to 
thniw  a  little  movf  animation 
into  the  scene,  onr  photo.L;rapher 
j^roui'ccl  a  parte  of  natives  aliont 
the  ti  am,  so  ih.it  two  purpo^os 
mi:;ht  lie  scrvnl  with  one  stone, 
and  no  mi>lake  mii;ht  he  ni.nle 
;is  to  t\  pi'S  of  the  ]Ho]ili-  and 
their  con\eyanci'^. 

On  a  trip  to  tlu-  nurth 
l)oun(lary  of  the  St.ite  se\tr.il 
loxtly  l.indsc.ipe  ]iiclnres  were 
secnred,  one  (pf  the  nio>t  exipiis- 
ite  heinjj  a  view  in  the  vicinit\- 
of  Ci.illir.iith  ,spriMj;s,  where 
the  iRMilw.itt  r-  of  Tellliosee 
I\i\er  pi'U  r  t  h  ri>u.u  h  vShort 
.Mountain-,  which  are  the  ontposts  of  Cnmherland  Kanj;e,  and  ^n  careening  and  pir<iiiettin;.j  in  many  c.iseades  hetween  that  point  and  Knox- 


A  sciiNH  or  \nv\\   i  ii  i;  in  noimh  c  m^oiina. 


hi 


>nt    i>n-ents    the    maje-ty 


■-hadows   which  th 


CSC  towenuy  nionut.iins  cast,  are  jx 


imperions  isol.itio;i    the 


tli.it  live 


•r.indciir  of  undisputed  lordline- 


d  nii.Icr  the 


in  a  little  world  of  their  own,  .almost  for^jctful  that  the  earth  projects 


1)1 


id  the 
.f 


lion/oii  I 


.1  th 


eir  vision, 
id  till 


liut  in  this  v.iUev  of  deli;.;lit  the  llovvcrs  run  riot  over  the  hills,  the 
)f 


woods  ami  lulls  are  niusica 


1  with 


sun^;s  of  m.uiy  birds,  and  there  are  the  sweets  of  jjeace  and  the  l)l"om  of  plenty  heneath  tlic^e  opalescent  skies. 

I'roiii  the  pKas.mt  v. lies  about  (lilbraitli  the  route  was  south  to  Morrislown,  and  thence  .southeast  alonjj  the  vallev  of  the  I'rench 
Broad  River,  lhroii;.;h   I'naka   I'ass  of  the  dreat  Smoky   Monntains,  to  North  Carolina.     .Many  writers  have  exhausted  the  dictionary  of 


^i- 


PICTUKHI)  WUItSON  NKVV  RIVtR,  WEST  VIRGINIA. 


?i 


436 


AMI-:RICA'S  WONDI'.RLAXnS. 


I 


I 


adjectives  in  (ksciiliiiii;-  tin.  rouKintic  Inaiitii's  nl  ilk-  1'n.iu'li  llmacl,  l>nt  tlu-  s'uaiii  and  its  iuturxak's,  hi'dij^litcd  with  inaiAtlous  cliffs. 
coiitiiitR-s  as  naUiic  made  it,  licynril  the  pdwcr  ol  <U>ci  iptimi.  Tlic  cciirsc  of  tl.is  loviK'  stream  cuts  tluoui;!)  tlic  ciiaiiiiini;  liills  alidiit 
As!ic\ille  and  pcmrs  its  crystal  waters  ihnin.yh  a  iiarrnw  i^nri^e  nntil  it  jiasses  the  lilnckade  uf  the  Sinok''  Mdimtains.  In  this  space  of  forty 
miles  tile  ImciicIi  liroad  is  indeed  a  "racin;^  ri\ir,"  t"  which  the  Chcrukees  applied  the  name  '/'ii/U-riostri.  which  has  that  sii^niticaiice,  fur 
it  is  iinpetuons,  torrential,  terril'ic.  Vvum  a  t;eiUlc  stream  ahocc  .\>lK'\i]le,  li\  the  conli.ictiim  of  its  hanks  lu  low.  the  ri\er  hecomcs  nn^ry, 
and  the  roar  of  c.it.ir.ict  .is  it  riiNlio  o\er  opp.isinj;  bowlders  tills  the  air  witli  noi-,i-  like  thumlcr.  .\l  .Slack  Ilon^e  the  current  (lashes  oxer 
a  f.ill  twenty  Icct  liii;li,  and  ,il  Moaiil.iin  Island  il  in.ikes  another  lea])  and  tlicii  liciomes  .i  noisv  r.ipid  to  a  point  kowii  as  "  Dee]}  Water." 
Here  the  nioiint.iins  close  in  upon  the  river,  forcing;  il  t'lroimh  a  narrow  channel  only  oii'j  lllliidreil  and  fifty  feel  wi<le  and  forty  feet  deep. 
The  railroad  to  re.ich  the  opposite  hank,  crosses  the  river  diago- 
nally hy  .111  iron  l)ri(l>;e,  with  a  clear  si>,iii  of  two  hundred  ,iinl 
sixty  teel,  sciiiee/iiij.j  itself,  as  it  were,  .iiound  the  rockv  f.ict-  of 
the  ...."uitain  on  the  rijilll  h.ink,  to  he  rece'  il  with  the  s.imc 
jjTndi;iiii;  hospitality  hy  the  hard  f.ice  of  the  left  li.ink,  and  twists 
itself  hy  a  very  short  curve  into  line,  which  in  a  very  few  miii- 
ntes  h-'inj.js  it  into  the  lie.iiilifnl.  siniliiii;  vallc\  ol  llol  ,Sprin:.;s. 

No  one  li.is  e\er  been  able  to  cor'.ev  a  just  idea  of  the 
remarkable  maxuillccncc  of  this  wonderful  cafioii,  with  its  wil  1 
a. ;d  ceaseless  splendor  of  tnmiiltnous  ,.  tcrs,  its  o\(.ih.in;^ir.(^ 
cliffs,  its  noble  monntains  and  fairv  islets.  In  the  time  of  sta^e- 
coachini;  it  w.is  an  experience  never  to  In-  ii.r;.;oUi-ii — the  day  's 
joiiriiey  from  .\shcville  to  the  W'.irm  .Sprin,v;s,  alonj;  the  tiini]iiko 
which  followed  the  old  Indian  trail  and  lay  between  tlieri\erand 
the  cliffs,  heinnied  in  by  the  whirling;  emer.ild  waters  of  the  lirst 
and  overhiinj;  by  the  fern-dr.ipcil  escarpments  of  the  last,  with 
vistas  of  wild  and  yet  wilder  be.inty  opeiiintj;  at  c\er\  step. 

Paint  Rock  is  six  miles  below  Hot  ,Sprin,i.;s,  and  lirectly  on 
the  line  between  North  C.irolina  and  Tennessee.  The  rock  itstlf 
is  ina.ssive  in  size  .iiid  would  attract  attention,  if  not  admiration, 
aside  from  the  icf^ends  which  m.ike  it  famous.  The  n.iiiie  I'.iint 
Rock  is  j^iven  to  perpetuate  a  tradition  that  the  Cherokee  Indi.ins 
colored  portions  of  it  with  an  indelible  ]iaint,  and  in  the  foni;  oi 
hieioj;ly]>hics  which  no  one  has  been  able  to  decipher,  tlion>;h 
the  legaiid  represents  that  it  is  t!ie  tri'  e's  prayer  to  the  dreat 
Spirit;  and  beiii<j;  approved,  a^as  wiil  not  snlTice  to  efface  it.  Twenty  niih  s  east  of  .\siieville  is  Round  Knob,  on  the  line  of  the  Western 
North  Carolina  Railroad  and  nestled  in  the  very  heart  of  tile  Hlue  Ridj^e  Mo  intains,  where  the  scenery  surpasses  in  wildness  and  sublimity 
that  of  any  other  .section  of  the  State.  It  is  a  basin  .so  completely  shut  ii'  by  lofty  peaks,  that  if  a  person  were  dropped  into  it  without 
knowiiifi;  the  iioint  of  ciitr.inc;-,  he  would  find  difRci'ltv  in  cscapiii)^.  \  brawlinjj  monntain  .stream  rushes  by,  in  whose  cr\stal  w.iters  bask 
the  speckled  troni  to  temp',  the  anj;ler,  while  near  the  hotel  is  to  he  seen  one  of  the  most  beautiful  spectacles  in  the  world — a  inaKuificent 
foiiiitaiil  that  throws  its  spray  two  hundred  and  (ij,'I.t\-  six  feel  hi^h,  then  like  a  bridal  veil  floats  off  in  misty  fraj;ilieuts.  His  beautiful 
by  day,  but  far  more  beautiful  in  the  moonlij^ht,  a.s  it  throws  its  sparklinj;  vapor  high  in  the  air,  giving  ti>  the  scene  a  weird  encliantnient. 


THl-:   Ol  I)   MANS   lACH,    NHAK   ASIIKVIII  i;. 


\  vii;\v  1)1    111!-:  i!(!:\(,!i  iikdM)  i;ivh;u  arovi-:  .\shi-:vii.i  i-; 


-riw^*p^p*" 


;i'i. 


I  111 

IIH 


.}o.S  AMHRICA'S  WOXDHRLAXDS. 

Overhead,  apparently  weaviut;  in  and  out  like  a  siher  thread,  ^ 
winds  the  i;li>lenin>;  traek  over  whieh  tlie  tourist  must  jiass  to  i;ain  the  ! 
siiinniit  vi  the  Uhie  Kidi;e.  So  !L;reat  and  dinicuU  is  tile  aseeul  that  at 
one  point  lour  par.dlel  tracks  may  be  seen,  one  above  the  other,  while 
at  another  point,  as  the  train  passes  over  a  winding  trestle  sixty  feet 
hiL;li,  the  to\irist  mij;ht  easily  drop  his  hat  on  the  track  below  o\er 
which  he  had  jiassed  a  few  minutes  before,  but  now  jjoiny;  in  an  entirely 
opposite  direction,  liaxinL;  gained  noihin.u;  on  his  journey  save  about 
ninety  feet  in  elev.uion.  .So  often  does  the  track  turn,  twist  and  double 
upon  itself  to  i^ain  the  summit,  that  at  one  pl.ice  of  observation  it 
may  be  seen  at  sesentecu  distinct  points,  .\fter  haviujj;  }jained  a  dis- 
tance of  over  Ine  miles  of  the  ascent,  the  train  is  ajjain  within  (uie-founh 
of  a  mile  of  the  Kuob,  now  Iviny;  far  below,  but  .still  the  center  of  this 
i^rand  sxstemofiron  loops,  l)y  means  of  which  the  train  is  ,y;rad\i.i  iv 
ri^iui,' to  the  rejLjion  of  the  clouds.  I'rom  this  point  to  the  summit,  m 
the  short  space  of  one  and  a  half  miles,  the  tr.un  passes  tlirou<;li  six 
tunnels  and  across  numerous  };or<,;es,  whose  sides  are  clothed  with  the 
l>rimeval  forest  where  jierhaps  the  foot  of  man  ne\er  trod.  The  most 
noted  of  which  is  "Ro\al  Ciori;e,"  seen  from  the  car  window,  whose 
precipitous  sides  and  deep-y.iwnini;  ch.ism  form  a  scene  of  m.ii;niliciut 
grandeur,  from  the  top  of  whose  bnttin>j;  clilfs  the  nmuut.iins  of  .Soulli 
Cirolina  are  \isilile,  two  hundred  miles  distant.  .\s  the  train  nishcii 
forward,  suddenly  it  ])lnn!.;es  intt)  Swaunanoa  Tunnel,  which  is  nearly 
two  thousand  feet  lonjj;,  and  ni)on  emertjini,;  at  the  western  end,  .dons; 
the  massive  walls,  we  re.ich  the  ]ii;,;hest  point  in  th.it  Land  of  the 
.Sky,  where  the  waters  of  ,i  spring  divide,  a  part  flowing;  into  the  .\tl,intic 
(Jcean  and  .m  equal  sh.ire  beinjjf  contributed  to  the  Gulf  of  .Mexico. 

H.iviui;  crossed  the  lilne  kiilt;e  Mountains  and  passed  thn>UL;h 
Hickor\-Xut  dap  to  the  valkv  ,  the  road  leads  into  one  of  the  jjrandest 
canons  of  the  liro.id  Ri\er.  Here  for  a  dist.ince  of  nine  miles  on  either 
side  of  the  riser  >,,M,iut  mountains  ri>e  to  a(li/./.\-  hei^^ht,  forming;  mas^-ive 
walls  of  blue  yranite,  often  re.ichinj;  a  hei),dit  of  more  than  a  thons.iud 
feet,  while  not  .i  s|)ri!Lj  of  vey:etation  apjie.irs  on  their  surf.ice. 

.\  creek  lar;.;e  euoui^Ii  to  turn  a  mill  pInn,L;es  o\er  one  of  tluse 
embattknu  nts  and  falls  in  a  single  stream  a  distance  of  over  thirteen 
hnnilred  feet,  known  as  Iliekorx-Xnt  Ivills,  said  to  be  the  tliind  liij^jhest 
falls  in  the  I'nited  .St.ites.  I'as^iu^;  on  down  this  ;^re.it  >;ort;e,  we  see 
ChimneN'  Rock  on  the  rij,;ht,  a  circ  ul.ir  eolumii  four  hundred  feet  hi^;li, 
while  on  the  opposite  side  is  Round  Top,  with  its  pvraniidal  dome  not- 
ing a^;aiii--t  the  sky. 


C/l.SAI'S   HRAh.   spi!|<   C)|-    IHH   HI  I'F.   I'IDCl"    IM\(.I-:,   N.   C. 


N    (. 


Itll 


III 


430 


■IHi:li 

c' 


AMKRICA'S  WOXUKRLAN'DS. 
ins  houiul  tliis  vale  on  north  and  sontli,  while  directly  in  front  of  ns,  like  companion  sentinels  Rnardinsj  the  western 


gatiwa\ ,  dnwn  which  the  snn  was  to  march,  stands  Ronnd  To]i  and  Chinniey  Rock  Mount;i 


Hcliind  Chimney   Uock,  trendinj;  towan 


the  we-t,  arise  in  c'ose  succession  a  number  of  mountains  with  distinct,  broken  sunnuits — a  Ioujt  p.disade  fencinj^  the  jjaj)  in  whose  depth 
rushes  the  l!road  River.      In  the  center  of  the  west  stands  Hear  Wallow  Mountain,  the  last  visible  knob  of  Hiekory-Xut  ("lap. 

''  The  sun  was  sinkinj;  behind  the  white  cunnili  that  capped  this  niouul,',.n.     Streamers  of  j^olden  li.uht,  like  the  s])okes  of  a  celestial 
chariot,  whose  hub  was  the  hidden  sun,  barred  the  western  sky.     The  clouds  shone  with  edj^es  of  beaten  ni>U\.       Their  centers,  with  every 


minute,  chanj;ed  to  all  hues  ima<;in.dile,     Tlie  fronts  of  the  Sentinel  Nb>nutaius  wi're  so 


mb( 


in  the  sha<lows, while  the  j;a])  was  radiant  with 


the  li,i;ht  pourin,y;  tlno\ii;h  it,  and  every  pine  on  the  top  nf  the  palis.ule  stood  black  against  the  glowing  sky."      The  "Old  Man's  Face"  is 
another  wmiderftil  n.itural  curi- 
osity which  di\  ides  interest  with 
the    fiuot   scenery   in    this   re- 
markable -  ■ 
west  side  ol 


'Ion,  aiul  IS  on 


th. 


d  Mountain,  in 
pniniiueut  \iew,  for  the  rocks 
are  barren  and  <:aii>h  from  tlie 


light  of  tl 


le  sun. 


This 


sin 


Milar 


formation  is  a  faithful  represen- 
tation of  a  three-tiuarter  view  of 
face,  with  fore- 
ii>e,    mouth    au( 


in  old   man  s 


head,    eyes,    nii>e,    mouth    and 
beard  in  such  j)erfect  proportion 


that 


hanllv    believe, 


wulmnt  closf  examinatiiiu, 


the 


lace  is  only  an  accidental  re-ult 
I  it  the  elements,  in  tlu  ir  unceas- 
ing Work  of  denudation. 


h:i-hl 


ecu  mile 


from  .\>he- 


vilk 


the  liaKani  K.iugc.  is 
Mount  ri>g.ih,  .'i,7."'7  I'eti  high, 
from  the  apex  of  which  a  wou- 


rful 


exi)anse    of    mount. liii 


sceiK-ry  is  s])read  ont  to  \iew; 
but  it  is  fioin  the  Hlue  Ridge 
jjcaksthat  the  subliniest  vicious  are  presente 


.\BO\  1      I  111-:   (  I.OI'hS   (IN    Ml  IC.llll  I  's   11:  \K,   Ni:.\l'    AsllliVII  I  I.,   NDIMII   (,\Ri)llN\. 


tl 


le  mo>t  curious  loinis  ot  nature-scu 


Iptt 


icctir.      l',i>siiig  sontluvest  from  .\slu\ille, 


the  .\sheville  and  Spartanburg  Road  runs  through  an  exceedingly  fertile  region,  and  thence  into  the  Canon  of  Little  River,  whiTc  for  lour 
miles  the  stream  is  a  succession  of  surging  ra]iids,  uoisv  cascades,  and  pielnrcsque  w.aterfalls,  until  it  api)roaclies  the  b.ise  of  Ireiiiendons 


cliffs.     TlKse  are  spurs  of  the  Hlue  Ridge,  one  of  which  is  f; 


imous  as 


presenting  a  facial  juolile  which  has  been  named  "  Casar's  Head, 


but  it  t.ike-i  a  person  of  vi\id  imagination  to  distinguish  the  hmnaii  Icituies,  very  ])Iaiu  though  the  jjui'lc  declares  thein  to  be.     As  the 

altitude  is  ncirly  iI.ihmi  ft^t,  and  :i,<MH)  feit  above  the  valle\',  the  ])ros])ect  of  the  peak  of  this  Hlue  Ridge  spur  is  iiieomp,iial)ly  maguiliceiit. 

I'runi  this  di/./.y  height  the  peaks  of  the  Hlue  Ridye  may  be  observed  for  scores  of  miles  in  each  direction;  looking  northeast  you 


stern 
wanl 
Icpth 

estial 
?virv 
with 
e"  is 

1 

n.j. 

'^> 
■^ 

■\ille, 
r  lour 
lulcm.s 

Vs  the 
ki'iit 
St  yoi 

tin  IE  RIVER  RAPIDS,  NORTH  CAROLINA. 


432 


AM KRIC A 'S  WONDERLANDS. 


illll 


II  [|, 


I    I 


nil 


may  sec  the  famous  Kiii^^'s  Mountain,  seventy  miles  a\Viiy,\vliile  in  tlie  opposite  direction,  in  distinct  view,  is  Stone  Monntain,  near  Atlanta, 
Cioorj;ia,  over  one  linndrid  miles  av>ay.  Lookiiij,'  to  the  north,  a  distance  of  a  little  more  than  one  hundred  miles,  is  the  Roan  Mountain, 
while  to  the  uortlR-ast  is  sicu  the  bluk  dome  of  Mount  Mitchell,  full  sixty-five  miles  distant.  In  the  northwest,  about  thirty-five  miles 
away,  is  Tisyah,  rcseudiling  a  jjreat  Kj;\  ptiau  pyramid  in  outline,  while  directly  to  the  west  are  the  Highlands  of  Macon  count\-,with  White- 
side Mountain  jjlitteriug  like  an 
icehery;  in  the  sunlight.  From 
the  top  of  this  wonderful  preci- 
pice the  view  is  strangely  sug- 
gestive of  a  great  stretch  of 
oce.m.  The  blue  waves  of  the 
>ea  find  their  counterpart  in 
the  waves  of  these  hUie  mouut- 
.liiis,  with  their  corrngatious 
extending  far  out  until  the  out- 
line is  lipst  in  the  h.i/y  distance. 
There  is  no  gr.inder  sight  than 
a  view  frnui  this  imiut  at  sun- 
rise, when  the  world  below  is 
buried  from  sight  in  an  ocean 
of  impeuetralile  fog,  and  the 
great  billows  of  fleecy  mist  ro 
iug  like  angry  wa\es,  while  the 
breaker-like  roar  of  cal.\racts  a 
thousand  feet  below,  makes  the 
deception  complete. 

The  loftiest  peak  of  the 
.\ppalachiau  s\  stem  is  Mouut 
MitelK-ll,  which  i-  tliivty  miks 
from  .\she\ille,  and  is  easiest 
reached  by  wa\-  of  the  .Sw.inan- 
noa  River.  The  ascent  is  b\'  a 
comparatively  easy  roadway, 
but  as  the  altitude  of  the  sum- 
mit is  (!,717  feet,  it  is  not  gaine 
witlunit  great  exertion.  I'"or- 
merly  the  numut.iin  was  called 

Itlack  Dome,  then  Cliugmau's  Mount,  but  was  afterwards  christened  Mitehell's  Peak,  in  honor  of  Professor  I'Hisha  Mitchell,  of  the  State 
Tuiversity  of  North  Carolina,  who  was  tlrst  to  measure  its  exact  altitndi-,  and  who  lost  his  life  by  falling  over  a  precipice  in  making  a  .second 
ascent  to  verify  his  first  measurement.  The  body  was  found  ten  days  after  the  fatal  accident  and  conveyed  to  Asheville,  where  it  was 
buried.     One  year  subsequently  the  remains  were  disinterred  and  carried  to  the  sunnnit  of  Mitchell  Mountain,  and  there  committed  to  tlie 


THH   SUMMIT   i  )!•   MOUNT   MlTCHHl.l.,   NORTH   CAROLINA. 


.'i4- 


CATHtlJRAl.  AND   IHKONt  IN  I.UKAY  CAVKKN,  VIKOIMA. 

18 


434 


AM liRIC A'S  WONDhRLANDS. 


,1*1, 


"'.     Ill 

,Wi:l' 
'"  h 


grave,  over  which  a  beautiful  momiinent  now  stands,  the  tribute  of  a 
daughter's  loviuj,'  memory. 

Tlie  ascent  of  the  mountain  lies  through  superb  forests  of 
deciduous  trees  and  along  the  banks  of  the  rusliing  Swannauoa,  initil 
after  a  climb  of  ti\  e  miles  the  second  base  oi  the  nionnt.iin  is  reached — 
a  small  grassy  iilalcau,  where  a  residence  onee  stood — now  know  as 
the  "Half-way  lIou.-.e.'"  iMom  tliis  point  the  worhl  l)elow  unrolls 
before  the  gaze  like  an  a/ure  scroll,  while  above,  awful  in  its  nearness 
and  immensity,  towers  the  dark  mass  of  Hlack  Mountain,  clothed  with 
a  somber  forest,  into  the  depths  of  which  the  jiath  n<iw  ])bin  ;es,  and 
which  it  does  not  leave  again  >inlil  the  final  summit  is  reached.  Wind 
ing  in  snake-like  turns  through  the  close-growing  firs,  the  trail  clindis 
the  steep  shoulders  of  the  great  mountain,  passing  over  what  is  now 
known  as  Clingman  Dome  (of  the  Ulacks)  and  then  following  its 
ridges  for  about  three  miles,  until  the  bare  rocky  peak,  which  is  the 
highest  point  of  land  east  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  readied,  aii<l  all 
hardships  of  ascent  are  forgotten  in  the  \iew  that  bursts  upon  the 
enraptured  vision. 

If  the  d.iy  is  clear,  the  jirospect  is  almost  boundless  in  extent  and 
of  infinite  be.uity.  Range  behind  r.iiiL;c  of  great  mount.iins  lie  below, 
like  a  Tit.inic  ocean  stilled  by  some  mighty  hand.  I'rom  this  supreme 
elesation  it  is  po>-ilile  to  study  the  structural  character  of  the  region, 
and  to  count  all  the  great  chains  that  cross  the  countr\ ,  while  no  words 
cm  express  the  varying  and  exi|ni>ite  color  that,  like  a  glamour  of  heav- 
enly enehantnunt,  lies  over  the  wide  exitause.  The  whole  earth,  "  and 
the  beauty  tlierenf,"  seems  to  be  s]iread  out  at  one's  feet,  and  the  airs 
that  come  to  tlii>  high  mountain  cre>t  are  full  of  freshness  and  b.ilm. 

.\  Siuitlurn  poet,  who  climbed  the  mountain  in  the  spring  of 
IsiM,  tbu-i  de>cribes  the  in-.piring  sii^ht  which  greeted  him  when  the 
day  was  d\  iui;:  '' 'I'o  witness  a  sunset  from  this  peak  is  .something 
long  to  be  remembered.  Never  shall  I  forget  that  evening  in  June, 
when  in  comp.iuy  with  my  guide,  we  stood  by  the  gra\e  on  the  sniii- 
niit  of  Mount  Mitchell,  and  looked  down  on  that  scene  of  resplendent 
glory  that  l.iy  before  us;  far  in  the  west  the  sun  was  slowly  sinking 
in  a  bed  of  crimson  and  gold,  the  horizon  was  lighted  with  a  flushing 
radiance  which  w.is  infinitely  sublime,  while  the  whole  laiidscajje  was 
aglow  with  splendor,  every  tint  and  line  imaginable  seemed  to  inter- 
mingle in  that  ."^ea  of  color,  ami  every  jutting  crag,  and  dome,  and 
]iiunacle  of  sullen  rock  flamed  as  though  a  tlKJusand  rainbows  had 
fallen  out  of  the  skj-  and  hung  thenisehes  there  like  glorious  banners; 


RI?IDAL  VEIL  FALLS,  DINGMAN'S  FERRY,  PENNSYLVANIA. 


niANIA'S   Vhll.,   I.IIRAY   CAVKHNS,    VIRGINIA. 


.11 


i'l'i 


!fl 


4.;o  AMHRICA'S  WOXDlvRl.WDS. 

we  stand  enthralled  at  llio  sciiit-  licforo  u^,  no  somul  is  luard,  no  \utU- oi  \nu\  Im  iks  tlic  awlul  stillni'ss.  \Vo  are  in  tin- U'niitn  of  that 
eternal  siknee  wliicli  wrAys  the  sun;  mil  of  tiie  'i\  1 1'  i-tinj,'  liills.'  A  liu^li  oi  dreann  repose  broods  over  this  lolty  peak,  wliieh  still  retains 
the  last  ra\s  of  the  setting  snii,  while  over  the  world  belou  twiliyht  has  fallen. 

'How  fiiir  tliii  lone  iiiul  lovi-lv  soiiif. 

Ami  yoiuliT  dropiiiiiK  iUtv  luil!, 
Auil  i'\r's  swL'et  «i)irit.  wliiih  sU-aU 

llllsl'fll 

Willi  il.irkncss  I'Vui  .illl '  " 

lint  it  is  not  only  from  its 
unsnrpassed  view  that  thi»  K'''''' 
niouiilaiii  is  inleristin.y.  Its 
vast  sides  are  elotlied  with  a 
forest  of  liewilderinjj;  1k.uU\, 
er\stal  streams  j;n>h  from  il> 
heights,  and  tiieie  i--,  aUo.i;ttlKr, 
a  fasi  ■. uation  about  t'lis  wild, 
uiipeo|iIed  rei^ion  that  i;"es  I'arlo 
account  for  the  passion  which 
cansed  l'rnt(.>>or  Mitchell  tti  lo>e 
his  liiu  in  wanderinjj;  throu;;!! 
its  wiUUiness. 

I  laving  accomplislR<l  a  cir- 
cnil  of  the  Wonderlands  oi 
Western  North  Caroli'ia,  our 
artist  departed  from  Aslieville 
by  i.a\  of  the  Richmond  and 
nansille  Railroad,  and  thence 
by  its  northern  connections  to 
Roanoke,  \'iri;inia,  at  which 
]ioint   train   was  taken   on   the 

Shenandoah  \"alley  Koiite  for  I.nr.'v,  a  town  of  l,."'l"l  ])eopU'.  but  famous  by  reason  ^'f  its  pioviuiity  to  the  mar\elons  caverns  of  that  name, 
the  beauty  of  whiih  is  incoini)aral)le,  and  in  wonder  they  ri\.d  the  jjreat  Mammoth  Ca\i'  This  marvelous  siditerranean  lab\rinth  is  one 
mile  distant  from  the  town,  and  is  entered  by  an  easy  passage-way  that  has  a  t;radual  descent  by  stone  step.-.  'Phe  ca\e  was  an  accidental 
discovery  by  Mr.  .Andrew  J.  Campbell,  in  I."<7."<,  who,  while  exainiuiui;  the  locality  known  as  C".i\e  Hill,  w.is  led,  by  the  hollow  .sound 
produced  by  stampiu<4  the  earth,  to  seik  for  the  cavity  which  he  kucw  must  exist  at  that  point.  With  spade  and  mattock  he  sank  a  hole 
four  feet  dee])  and  was  rcwarde<l  by  findin;.;  the  <,'reat  cavern  which  oufjht  rightfnlK'  to  bear  his  nar.ic. 

To  Rev.  Horace  C.  Hovey,  of  New  Haven,  we  are  indebted  for  the  best,  as  it  is  the  most  interesting,  description  that  has  ever  been 
written  of  this  underground  wonderland,  ])repated  as  it  was  after  a  careful  examination  of  the  geology  of  the  cave  as  well  as  of  its  splendors: 

"At  some  period,  long  sid)scqnent  to  its  original  excavation,  and  after  many  large  stalactites  had  grown,  the  cavern  was  com])letely 
filled  with  glacial  nmd,  whereby  the  drip-stone  was  erodi-d  into  singularly  grotesque  shapes.     After  the  mud   had  been  mostly  removed  by 


I  .  ,ii  o--i:i\t  I  \i.i -.  \i-M'  iJiMiMws  I  i:ri'y,  i-i-nwvi  vam  \. 


4.vS 


AMlvRlCAS  \VOXDHI<I,.\\l)> 


.il'' 


II, ,  I 


■CI 


UK 


fldwiiii,'  w.ilcr,  ilii'si'  iTddid  fi>riiis  n-iti.iiiRil  amid  tin  luw  j^rowllis.  To  this  idiilr.isl  iiiay  lu- .iscrilud  .soine  nf  tlii'  most  strikiiij;  si-i'iics 
of  th(.'iM\i'.  The  many,  ami  i-xtianidinaiy  moiimiuiils  of  a(|iu()iis  l■lK■r^;y  iiicludi'  massivt-  cnhimiis  wti'iuhcd  fioiii  thi'ir  ])lai'i'  in  thi-  ci'il- 
injj  nnd  ]irostrati-  <in  ihf  lldm;  thi  hcdlnw  cchimn  fmty  fiit  hijjh  and  tliirty  fttt  in  diaiiutir,  .standing;  iiict,  Imt  iiiintd  by  a  tiihnlar 
passage  from  tn].  tn  hoitoin;  tht-  Itaiiiiii,'  idlinnii,  marly  as  lar^;i',  nndirmincd  and  tillinj;  like  the  Catnpanila  of  I'isi;  the  orjjan,  a  clnster  of 
stalactites,  <liiip|n(l  puinl  ddwnw.ird,  and  sLuidinj;  thus  in  the  room  known  as  the  C.ithedral;  liesidis  a  \.isl  hed  of  disintegrated  carhonates 
left  by  the  whiilin;;  llo(jd  in  its  retreat  tlironj^h  the  ureal  space  e.dled  the  I'.U'in  K.mdile. 

'•'I'he  stalactite  displ.iy  exceeds  that  of  any  other  cavern  known,  and  there  is  hardly  rt  .square  yurd  on  the  walls  or  ceiling  that  is  not 
tints  ornanienled.  The  old 
inateri.il  i>  yellow,  brown  or  red, 
and  its  wavy  surface  otlen  shows 
lavers  like  the  yn.irled  j,'r.iin  of 
costly  woods.  The  new  st.tlac- 
tites  j^rowinj;  from  the  old.  ,uul 
m.ide  of  h.iicl  c.irbipM.ites  th.il 
h.id  alre.idy  once  bi'iii  n.«iil,  .ire 
usually  white  as  snow,  thonjjh 
often  ]ii  nk  ,  bl  lie  or  aillber- 
colovi-d.  The  size  atl.iined  by 
single  .■.iieciiikn.--  i--  surprising. 
The  l-jniires>Coliiinn  is  a  st.il.ijr- 
mile  lhirt\-fi\e  feel  liii^h,  rose- 
coloved  and  el.ibor.ilily  dr.ipid. 
The  Itonble  Column  is  m.ide  of 
two  fliiled  Jiillars  side  by  side, 
ihe  one  twenly-ti\e,  the  other 
sixty  fiet  high,  a  m.iss  of  snowv 
alabaster.  Sevir.il  st.ilactiles 
in  the  r.iant's  Ilall  exceeil  fifty 
feel  in  length.  The  sni.ill 
jiendanls  are  innunier.ibk-;  in 
the  cano])y  above  the  Imperi.il 
."spring  il  is  estimated  that  forly 
thousand  are  visible  at  once. 


'■  The  Cascades  are 


de 


fid  fci 


irmations,  like  foaming  c.itaracts  caught  n  mid-air,  and  transformed  in  to  milk-white  or  amber  alabaster,  while  the  Chalcedony  Ca.sc.idc 
ilispbus  a  ^•ariely  of  colors.  Brand's  Cascade,  which  is  the  finest  of  all,  being  forty  feet  high,  and  almost  as  wide,  is  unsullied  and  wax- 
like white,  each  ripple  and  braided  rill  appearing  to  have  been  polished. 

"The  Swfiids  of  the  Titans  are  inonslrons  blades,  eight  in  number,  fifty  feet  long,  three  to  eight  feet  wide,  and  one  to  two  feet 
thick,  but  are  hollow  and  ilrawn  down  to  an  extremely  fine  edge,  filling  the  cavern  with  tones  like  tolling  bells,  when  .struck  by  the 
hand.      Their  origin,  and  also  that  of  certain  so-called  scarfs  and  blankets  exhibited,  is  from  carbonates  deposited  by  water  trickling  down 


THE  SARACEN'S  TENT.  l.URAY  CAVERNS.  VIRGINIA. 


!  I 


ILII 

ll 


ll 
I'Itt 


44^ 


AMIvRlCA'S  \\()X1)1-:RI,A\1)S. 


lAKM   SCKM;    in    Tin;    VAll.liY   Ol-    I  UK   SHI-.N  AM  )<  i  All,   Vljoi  ilNIA. 


44J 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDICRLAXDS. 


1 1,1 
III! 


ll 


"Tlic  ilimensidus  of  the  varioiw  cliatnhcrs  iiu-huUil  in  Liiray  Caverns  cannot  ho  f^iven,  on  accoimt  of  the  j^reat  irrcf^nhirity  of  their 
ontlines.  \or  can  their  .size  he  estimated  from  a  di  ,",rani,  heeanse  there  are  several  tiers  of  <;alleries,  aii.l  llio  vertical  depth,  from  the 
highest  to  the  lowest,  is  two  hnndred  and  sixty  feet.  Tlie  tract  of  one  hundred  acres,  owned  hy  the  Lnray  Cave  Company,  covers  all  possi- 
ble modes  of  entrance,  and  the  explored  area  is  mnch  k  .s  than  thai.  Tlie  waters  of  this  cavern  api>e,ir  to  he  entirely  destitntc  of  life;  and 
the  cxistinjj;  fanna  isqnite  mea<;er,  coniprisini;j  a  few  hats,  rats,  mice,  .spiders,  flies  and  .small  centipedes.  When  the  cave  was  first  entered 
the  floor  was  covered  willi  thons.mds  of  tracks  of  he.us,  wolves  anil  raccoons,  most  of  them  proh.ddy  made  lonjj  ajjo,  as  irijjressions  in  the 
ten.icions  chiy  th.\t  composes  most  of  tlie  cavern-lloor  wonld  remain  for  cenl\irics.  The  tr.ices  of  hnman  occupation,  as  ^et  discovered,  are 
pieces  of  cli.irco.il,  flints,  moccasin  tr.icks,  an<l  a  sini^le  skeleton  imlieddid  in  a  st.Uajjmite  in  one  of  the  chasms,  estimated  to  have  lain  where 
tonnd  lor  not  more  than  ti\e  hnndreil  years,  jndj;in>;  from  the  present  rale  of  st.il.i^mitic  jjrowlh." 

Accurate  and  beautiful  as  is  Mr.  Movev's  description  of  Lur.iy  C.P'erns,  yet  words,  however  iiij^cniously  used,  fail  utterly  to  convey 
a  true  idea  of  the  incomi>ar.d)Ie  splendors  of  this  nnder-worlil  palace  which  >;!iains  with  unspeakable  j.',lories,  such  as  (lod  ahme  can  create. 
Al.iildin,  in  the  Arabic  tale  which  so  deli<;lited  our  youthful  f.mc. ,  w.is  permitted  to  cuter  a  r\\c  whi"b  exhibited  such  deconilions  that  its 
Very  be.uily  both  d.iz/.Ied  and  affrighted;  and  to  his  am.i/cment  was  added  the  f;re.iler  wonder,  th.it  he  cavern  tiius  wrought  of  precious 
stones  w.is  the  work  of  a  5;eui,  who  was  slave  to  a  l.iuip  and  rinjj;.  lint  the  ferxid  imaj;irat!on  of  youth,  or  the  dreamer  under 
influence  of  the  delirinm-induciu^  hasheesh  intoxicaut  in  India's  climes,  ne\er  riveted  jjjaze  n|)on  vi-iion  more  wimdrously  beautiful  tlian 
Lura\ 's  iuler\,ils  of  divine  architeetuic;  nor  w.is  Al.iddin's  Cave  half  so  charming.  The  Throne-Koi  m,  e.uiopied  with  curtains  wo\en  of 
pearls  and  di.imonds;  '•  Tlie  vSaracen's  Tent, '"  in  which  more  than  oriental  splendors  of  richest  dam.i^ks  ai;d  golden  samile  sweep  round 
the  cr\st.d  ccucli  in  leslouus  of  ni.i,:;ic  beaut)  ;  Til.inia's  Wil  of  petrrilieil  s]iicler's  webs  ami  crvsiallized  h.inuouics,  behind  which  the  queen 
if  fairies  hiiles  from  -Ivilus;  and  tlie  H.ill-Room,  with  bisl  adornments,  as  if  to  celebrate  a  m.irriai^'e  between  the  aoiU;  all  these  and 
many  mote,  in  fast  succession  of  adiniriny;  surjirise,  miiipose  the  Caxcrns  of  Lurav,  of  v,'  '  '  it  li.is  been  said:  "  Mortal  hath  not  made  the 
like,  nor  human  f-iiicy  conceived  a  thiuy;  more  m.i;,'nit'iceut."  Let  llie  illustr.itions  l.^rcwitli  convey  an  idea  of  the  beauty  whieli 
lauj^niaj^e  cannot  express. 

The  uuilonn  temiicratnre  of  the  cave  is  .M  l-'ahrenheit,  which  is  the  same  as  ^,  ill, moth  Ca\e,  and  as  the  chamber-floors  are  dry, 
visitors  are  not  fatij^neil  or  iliscoinforte.l  bv  lon<^  w.iiks  tliroii<;li  the  Iab\riulhiiie  ]i,issa^es,  where  e\ery  step  taken  briiij;s  fresh  mar\els  into 
view.  To  the  curiously  incliiuil  the  iiii|uii\ ,  not  often  asked,  will  appear  verv  interesting:  How  did  the  auim.ils  whose  foot-priuls  were 
noticeil  in  the  tenacious  cl.iy,  Iiy  tli,i>e  who  iii.ide  the  discuNcry,  .t;ct  into  the  cive?  The  opeiiins,'  by  wliiih  the  ch.iinbers  are  reached  is  an 
artificial  one,  made  at  the  puint  w  here  Mr.  C.impbell  delected  the  hollow  by  slampiuH;  on  the  ground,  as  e\pl. lined.  \o  other  injjress  is  yet 
known,  thouuih  the  cue  h.is  not  Iieeii  thorouj;hK  explored;  so  it  is  jmssible,  or  p'l'b.ible  e\eii,  th.it  other  means  of  entiance  ha\e  lonj; 
continued  o|ien,  but  the  ])ossibility  also  remains  tiiat  its  entering:  )iassaj;e-wa\ s  may  have  been  se.iled  u])  by  an  invasion  of  glacial  drift, 
since  the  flood;  marks  of  tl,, it  tremendous  c.itaclysm  are  jdainh' to  be  .seen  in  the  cave,  and  not  all  of  the  diluvium  deposit  has  been  yet 
reimneil  or  i;;-,'iind  under  fool  by  the  lii.odil  pi  rsous  wiio  \i>it  the  e.ncrus  auiiu.illv. 

A  trip  up  the  Slii  n.iudo.ih  \',ille\  ,  though  made  in  a  luxurious  coach  on  a  swift-moviui;  train,  is  attended  by  innumerable  reminders 
of  the  ^'ivat  ci\il  war,  for  the  journey  is  over  a  succession  of  hollv-contested  battle-lulds;  but  the  beautiful  .scenery,  rich  hinds,  and  lo\ely 
farm  scenes  that  now  compose  the  laiidscajie,  cannot  efface  the  recollection  which  uiouuineiits  and  cemeteries  coiistaiuly  revive.  ( icneral 
Uoyntoii  has  drawn  a  truthful  ]iictnre  of  this  war-fainons  section,  in  this  wise: 

"ICsiry  foot  .south  of  the  roiom.ic  w.is  fij;hlin;;->;ronnil;  every  town  was,  at  .some  time,  the  hea  Iqnartirs  of  well-known  forces; 
nearly  everv  farm  hou>e  was  a  h  i^pit.il,  ami  some  of  the  (h  id  and  wounded  of  the  many  contests  h.id  fallen  on  every  acre.  On  the  rnioii 
side  rrenioiit  and  Sij^el,  Milroy  and  vShields,  Hunter  and  I!. inks,  Kelley  and  Crook,  Wilson  and  .Sheridan,  and  others  of  note  had  there  met 
Jackson,  Kwell,  Karly,  .Stewart,  Ashby,  ami  the  .advance  of  I,ee  in  force.  There  were  innnmerable  .small  affairs,  and  many  extended  and 
fierce  enf^.-ij^'cments.     Columns  in  ailvance  and  in  retre.it  ebbed  and  flowed  there  throiiKh  every  year  of  the  war;  wdiile  e\eiy  >;ap  e.])enint; 


:  -v..^'^  \ 


-*aswaSSa-_ 


4  "'      "'''•■siillCjy,^-.-,.;- 


^^^/-^  w;^ 


.I'liHii 


llAKl'l-RS   IHKRY,   VIRGINIA,   FROM  BOI.IVAR  HEIGHTS. 


>: 


444 


AMI'.RICA'.s  \V0X1)I-:R1.AXI)S. 


'  I 
II,  J 

i !  r 


111! 
UK 

il 


eastward  inmnd  its  UhiUiku  and  its  liorsiiiKii  uimn  tlir  lliiiks,  fust  nf  the  (UR'  ariiiv,  and  lluii  nf  the  otluT.  I'roni  tlio  opi-iiiiif,'  of  tlu-  (.-cintest 
till  is  cUisc  it  was  the  voilix  o(  stratt'.i;y.  'I'lio  war  finind  it  an  iik-al  i>asliiral  cmiiitry,  <.)f  rich  and  iKantifid  farms,  of  wiahhy  and  ari-to- 
cratic  faiiiiliis,  wlurc  life  in  its  i-aso  and  snnshinc  rivaled  that  in  older  lands.  It  was  the  t;ranary  and  store-lunise  of  the  Confederacy. 
The  war  lift  it  a  h.ne,  Maekenid,  and  Mastnl  region,  its  homes  deslioxcd,  its  farms  disdl.itid,  and  its  aliled)ndied  iiopni.itioii  deeiniate<l  in 
the  field.  lint  it  h. IS  fully  reeoeired  a;;.iin.  (Ir.iss  and  ,i;r.un  lune  woven  n.itnre's  heantifnl  eovitiny;  over  all  sears  of  h.ittle,  and  the 
countless  miles  of  ji.ir.ipets  are  i;reen  e.ieh  year  with  verdnre,  and  the  tleUls  and  orehards  are  laden  with  flowers  a;.;ain."' 

The  southwestt  rn  lir.ineh  of  the  I'.altimore  and  Ohio  .skirts  the  Cnnilierland  Kan.V'e,  f<dlowini;  the  valley  of  the  Shenandoah,  until  it 
joins  the  m.un  line  at  li.irper's  I'errv  ,  where  the  Shenaiuloali  and  I'otomac  likewise  form  a  jnnetiim,  each  stream  elea\in).j  a  wav  thnpugli 
the  mount. lins  and  w.Uiiinji  a  rei;iiin  of  eMr.ionliu.irv  seenic  be.iulv  .  v'^Iurid.iu,  when  oiuiMti uilJ  in  thi'se  vallexs,  deelared  th.it  tlie  eonntrv 
was  .so  barren  th.it  a  cii>w  wnnlil  have  to  e.irry  its  rations  when  tl>  iujj;  over  it;  but  llie  eonntrv  h.is  blossomed  into  fertility  since  th.it  time, 
and  now  ]ireseuts  <;lorious  visions  of  i;ie,it  prodnctivent'ss,  as  well  as  bluffs  ami  nionutaius  of  rui^^i'd  pictnres(|neuess. 

H.irper's  l"errv  w.is  well  known  bef^'re  the  w.ir  as  biiui^  the  loc.ilinn  of  one  >:  the  important  (lovernmeut  armories  and  .arsenals, 
which  Were  destrosid  .soon  after  the  liei^inninL;  of  hostilities,  and  h.i\e  not  since  lieen  rel)nilt.  Its  chief  fame,  hipwever,  is  derived  from  the 
fact  that  the  town  w.is  the  se.U  of  the  joliu  lirown  iusurrectinn  (  in  ()ci(iber,  l">."i;i  i;  and  at  Charleston,  ses'eu  mile.s  distant,  on  the  road  to 
Winchester,  is  the  pi. ice  where  he  was  trieil  ami  e\eciUe<l.  Il.irper's  bVrry  w.is  thus  not  only  the  scene  of  the  openinjj  events  of  the  war, 
but  it  rem  .iied  tile  cinler  of  action  for  a  lou>;  time.beini.;  .dternately  occupied  bv  the  rnion  and  Confederate  forces,  vvho  contended  with. 
varxiniLj  tir.us,  Init  ahv.ivs  with  iinuu  iise  loss  of  life,  in  elfnrts  to  rel.iin  it  as  a  b.ise  fur  tin  ir  supplies.  It  is  the  m.ij^nitlcent  scenerv 
.snrronno  ny;  the  pi. ice  th.it  now  attrai'ts  the  tourist's  interi'st,  for  a  more  be.intiful  section  of  mountain  country  is  nowhere  to  bo  .seen  in  the 
Kast.  rarticnl.irK  fine  \iews  are  afforded  fioni  M.iryland  IIeii;hts,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  I'otomac,  and  from  Hi  livar  lleit;hts,  which  aie 
above  the  town,  the  hitter  beinij;  a  more  extensi\e  j)erspecti\e,  comniandinj;  as  it  does  a  lonj,;  stretch  of  river  and  the  huj;e  mount, liu  rani- 
paits  on  the  soutli.  J-'roui  this  jioint  of  observ.ition,  too,  the  SIieu.indi>.ih  Kiver  is  presented  to  the  \iew,  sprinkled  with  white-crested 
w.ives  d.ishiui;  o\er  siili  ■•ih-woni  bowKU  is,  that  h.i\e  lonj^  lain  in  its  couisf,  and  its  frownini;  shores  th.it  rise  up  into  towerinjf  mountains 
and  form  a  chain  of  pe.iks  tint  jjirdle  the  horizon,  h'toni  M.ir\  l.iud  IIei;;hts  the  observer  is  able  to  look  into  seven  ronnties,  and  across 
stretches  of  three  States,  the  \iew  beiii'j;  at  List  arrested  by  a  .soft  h.ize  that  crowns  the  .soarinjj  summits  of  the  lihie  Kid^c  Raui^c.  The 
route  from  H.irper's  I'erry  u.is  north  by  w.iy  of  the  l!.iltimore  and  (  diio  and  the  Cumberland  \'alley  Railroads  to  Ilarrisbur;,',  and  thence 
siune  <pf  the  fine  scenery  of  l\nns\  1\  ani.i  wis  \  isited,  ])articidarl\  th.it  which  lies  alonjj;  the  line  of  the  I'ennsylvania  R.iilroad.  In  j^oin<4 
Iv.ist,  the  first  \iew  of  ^'reat  interest  which  j^recls  the  eves  of  obstrvant  ti.nders  alouj;  this  ro.id,  after  leaving;  l'it:sbnr<;h,  is  Johnstown,  a. 
>;reat  maiiuf.icturinjf  ]il.ice,  at  the  conlluence  of  Couem.iu^h  River  and  Stony  Creek,  but  wiiosc  largest  fame  d.ites  from  June  1,  l^.S'l^ 
when  the  town  w. is  swept  by  one  of  the  most  appallin),j  c.it.iclvsms  that  li.is  found  a  record  in  histmy.  On  that  ever-memor.ible  d.ite  the 
iniineiise  rtscrvoir  aw.iv  up  ill  the  .\1U  ;,;lKnies  tli.it  held  the  w.iti  rs  of  lioiith  I'ork,  burst  witliont  warniujj  and  rushed  down,  a  verv  devastat- 
inji;  monster,  into  tlie  smilii'gf  valley,  which  it  overwhelnud  with  a  llood  forty  fiet  deep.  The  result  is  too  avvfnl  to  dwell  tipon;  two 
'.liousand  people  were  V,  iiirled  to  their  death,  and  the  city  vv. is  c.inied  from  its  foundations,  vvitll  a  loss  of  $  U', 0(1(1, (1(1(1.  Ihit  Johnstown 
lias  recovered  from  the  terrilile  lihov  which  it  received  on  th.it  o|)eninj,'  d.iy  of  summer,  and  the  bla/inj,;  forj^e  of  the  rollinij-mllls  has 
a^'ain  broin.,;lit  iin'speiity  to  the  pi. ice. 

lieyond  Johnstown  a  iii,e,.'nilueii  panor.im.i  of  the  .Mle^heiiies  Ine.iks  into  \ii-w  with  their  mvriad  ph.ases  of  beaiitv  and  j^r.indeiir. 
As  we  follow  down  the  Conemanj;h,  alonj^  the  bii.ist  of  the  mount, lins  are  the  rem.iins  of  inclined  ])lanes  of  the  l'ort.i};e  R.iilroail,  bv  wir  -ji 
loaded  canal-bcKits  were  transiHirted  ov<.r  the  nionntains  at  points  where  the  c.iiial  was  not  yet  constructed.  This  was  Ivfore  the  davs  of 
.steam  railroads,  when  can.ils  were  the  most  expeditions  mode  of  freij.;ht  tr.iiispoit.ition.  Hevoiid  Cressons  the  road  begins  the  ascent  of  the 
AIlei;lienies,  ami  in  doiny;  so  makes  m.iny  turns,  and  from  the  ri;,;ht  hand  of  the  roid  a  ^ori^cous  s])eclacle  is  presented  lookinjr  down  into 
the  v.illevs,  where  the  houses  are  dw.irfcd  by  dist.mce  until  they  look  like  niolidiills,  ,ind  men  are   not  <listiiijrnisha1)le.     There  are  horse- 


Illi;    III  il.'Nl  Mil  If     I    IK' VI;    Al     KINWINu,    I'l.WsM  \  AMA. 


446 


AMERICA'S  WOXDIvRLAXDS. 


'I  I.   11 ' 

'":'|N|f  . 


'  Tin 


shoe  curves  as  sharp  and  Kf^'ceful  as  any  on  the  roads  that  eliiiib  o\er  westirii  iiioiiiit  lins,  while  the  scene  is  often  more  picturesque  because 
of  the  hiijh  slate  of  cultivalion  of  the  nioiuuain  slopes.  A  tunnel  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in  lenjjth  pierces  the  hrow  of  one  of  the  highest 
peaks,  after  which  the  road  descends  rapidly  to  Cressous,  a  place  noted  for  its  seven  mineral  spriuj;s.  Altoona  is  next  (lassed,  and  a  few 
minutes  later  the  train  rushes  around  the  iH-autiful  horseshoe  curve  at  Kittauinj;,  affordinj;  a  charmin)>;  prospect  of  lofty  mountains, 
surroiuidiui;  a  lake  of  exipiisite  beauty,  made  by  dauiuiin.tj  a  pretty  stream  that  comes  j^ambolinj;  down  from  cot)l  retreats  in  the  hijjli  altitudes. 

Out  of  the  Tuek.ihoc  Willcy  and  ou  to  Tyouc,  where  the  Little  J\iuiata  is  reached,  alouy;  whose  sweet-smelliujr  banks  the  road 
hastens  by  liro.ul  Top  Mountain,  Slidiut;  Hill,  thniii;.;h  the  ^'ip  of  Jack's  Mountain,  atul  thence  into  the  Loujj;  Narrows,  which  is  traversed 
by  highway,  river  and  canal,  rnnuiujj;  in  couipetitiou  with  the  railroad.  I'nr  several  miles  the  .scenery  is  woudrously  beautifid,  with 
kaleidoscopic  j;limpses  of  swift-passing  mountain,  foamiuj;  water-ways,  la\ij,'hinH;  cascades,  and  bounty-bestowiufi;  valleys  bedewed  with  the 
delicious  waters  of  the  blue  Juniata.  Thcuee  ou  to  Harrisburj;  the  road  speeds,  with  iiuiny  a  twist  tlironj^h  smiliuj;  vales  that  swathe  the 
mountain's  feet  with  ribbons  of  verdure;  across  the  Snsi|iK  hanna,  where  the  river  is  more  than  a  mile  wide  aiul  freckled  with  impeding 
stones.  Lancaster  is  swou  reached,  and  thence  eastward  the  sceuer\-  j^rows  in  j^raudeur  uiUil  Chi'ster  \'alley  i.-:  passed  and  I'aoli  comes  into 
view.  This  place  is  famous  in  historv  fioni  the  fact  that  here  took  jilace  a  ni.i>>.icre  which  will  be  rememhered  for  a}>;es  as  a  reproach  to 
the  l!riti>h.  On  Seplenilur  'J'K  1T77,  the  American  forces  under  (leneral  Antliou},-  Wayne  were  surprised  by  a  large  army  of  liritish 
regulars,  commanded  by  (lenei.d  dray.  Xotwilhst.uiding  the  superior  numbers  of  the  enemy  and  his  uuprepareduess,  (leueral  Wayne 
offered  a  stubborn  resist.ince,  and  nut  until  ue.irly  one-half  his  men  had  fallen  in  the  desperate  conflict  did  he  c.ii)itulate,  upon  terms  of 
honorable  surrender.  In^te.id  of  oI)ser\iug  the  rides  which  obtain  among  civili/ed  nations,  after  the  .\mericans  had  laid  down  their  arms 
the  British  mercilessly  .sl.iuglUered  many  of  their  helpless  ])riMiners.  A  monunu'Ut,  erected  in  I^IT,  marks  the  site  of  this  shameful 
trageily.  Ivislward  from  I'aoli  the  road  tra\erses  one  of  the  fairest  .secticuis  in  the  world,  resembling  the  richest  agricultural  regions  of 
Ivuglaud,  where  the  soil  is  in  the  highest  pii>sil)le  state  of  cultiv.itiou  and  the  farm  houses  are  models  of  architectural  elegance,  with  a 
gradual  increase  in  the  beaiuits  of  the  prosperous  laud^cijie  until  the  tr.uu  jinrsnes  its  way  through  l'"airuu)unt  Park  and  into  the  great 
metropolis  of  Philadelphia. 

Northward  from  Philadelphia  our  artist  tr.neled,  through  liethleheui  to  the  Delaware  Water  Oa]),  where  the  Delaware  River  forges 
\'-^  way  through  the  lilue  MouiUains,  the  pi>int  of  jj.i.ss.ige  being  narrowed  bv  w.dls  from  !,•-'(•()  to  l,iltM)  feet  high,  which  seem  to  clasp  the 
sturdy  stream  in  culoss.d  arms,  of  half  affection  and  li.ilf  restraint.  This  tremendous  gorge  formerly  bnre  the  ludi.m  uaiue  of  Minuisink, 
signifying  "  Whence  the  w.iters  are  gone,  "  which  is  tliusexpi  'ned  by  a  local  geologist:  "  Here  a  vast  lake  once  ])robably  extended;  and 
whether  the  great  Imdy  of  water  wore  its  way  throngli  the  lunuiuain  by  a  fall  like  Niagara,  or  burst  through  a  gorge,  it  is  certain  that  the 
Minnisink  country  b  -.irs  the  ui.iik  of  a(puous  action  in  its  dilnxial  soil,  and  in  its  rounded  liills,  built  of  pebbles  and  bowlders."  The  gap 
pro[)cr  is  about  two  ililes  long,  when  the  mount, lius  recede  on  both  side>,  is  if  at  one  time  some  terrific  disturbance  had  tlirowu  up  a  gi.int 
ridge  in  the  path  of  ulie  river.  It  is  app.irent  also  tli.it  ceiitiries  ago  the  p.issage,  though  li.irdly  more  than  one  hnndiid  yards  wide  now, 
was  \ery  m  i  li  u  utowlt,  an  1  l!i  •  nanu  given  to  it  b\-  the  luili.ius  was  no  doubt  siiggeste<l  bv  this  cleft  through  which  the  pent-up  waters 
must  h  i\e  d.c-lied  with  teriilk-  force  and  roar. 

The  two  monulains  between  which  the  river  ji.isses  are  named  in  1  mor  of  two  famous  Indi.in  chiefs,  that  on  the  New  Jersey  side 
being  calle<l  T  iiuin.tin  ,  and  the  one  <iu  the  Pennsylvania  shore  being  known  as  Minsi.  Chief  T.immany  w.is  of  the  Del.iwaie  tribe,  whose 
bravery  and  magnauiniity  was  :  ucli  tint  he  was  canoui/ed  as  the  patron  saint  of  America,  but  his  nan  e  is  best  perpetu.ited  by  New  York 
Cit\  's  political  organization.  The  two  moiiutains,  adjacent,  and  which  were  no  doubt  one  before  the  .vearing  waters  cut  a  way  through  it, 
exhibit  m.irked  differences,  wlii'  h,  to  a  casiuil  ol)ser\er,  would  seem  to  controvert  this  theory,  ^bl  iiit  Minsi  is  a  gr.iceful  ])eak  crowned 
with  dense  forest  growths,  whi'e  Tammany  is  .i  gigantic  rock  that  rises  in  broken  ledges,  almost  terraces,  from  the  ri\er,  on  one  of  which, 
two  hundred  feet  abo\e  the  river,  a  hotel  h.is  been  built  to  accommodate  sunimer  tourists.  And  the  scenery  is  gr.itid  enough  to  lure  lovers 
of  the  picturesque  in  n.itiire.     Jii-t  below  the  hotel  falls  a  silvery  ca.scade  whose  waters  arc  derived  from  Ilnnter's  Spring,  that  bursts  out  of 


IJllIH   NKCK   nl--   THK  SlJSgUHHA.NNA   klVhk,   PhNNt,VIAA\H 


I'    ii 


h    -HI 


l"*'lMlf|f  , 


'   I'll! 


AMHKICA'S  WOXDI'ikl.AXDS. 


Miul   ]Ki.iinlml.ilis  llinniyh  iiiain-  si<|\k>U'i 


-i'ii\irt(l  and   Uilliiwi'ic 


iHioif  il   (lro|i-;   into  a   yn,<\  imIK'c 


448 

tlie  iiionntaiii  si 

Diana's  liatli,  tl 

Lt'a]),  and  10  tlic  lilt  anutlRV  jnnnuiiuory  calUd   I'lusptct   Rock,  wliik-  luar-by  is  a  ckar  lake  on  tlic  very  apix  of  tliu  mountain,  which 

visitors  arc  t<dd  is  of  an  iinfathomahle  depth. 


ivcr  Cal 


!•■ 


Is,  and  shik- 


mto  the  ri\er.       Al)o\e  the  sonrce  of  the  watirlail  is  a  hiftv  ledt'c  known  as  Lover's 


]!ut  thouijli  Taninianv  is  the  more  rni. 


iiicttirescnic,  Min^i  oilers  thi 


enlrancmj;  ])rospicl,  expanihrn;  on  tlie  ea--t  nn 


til  tin 


kdiole  kii  New  Jcrsev  seenrs  to  lie  spread  out  to  view.      .V  mile  lieli^w  the  Ci.ip  the  si-enery  becomes  curiously  putt\  ,  lor  the  riwr  has  woin 

Here  are  such  objects  of  interest  as   ludi.ui  I,.idder  Itlulf,  CoUi-Air  C.ixe,  I'oiut  of   K'hUs, 


the 


into  j^rottoes  and  laul.istic  lorms. 


Hnnier's  Spriii'',  etc.,  while  a  few 


mile 


ivc  the  da])  there  are  bits  of  u.itnre  positively  charmiuj;.      Hn-hkill  Creek   po\ns  its  coulvilmtion 
into  the  I)el,iw,ire  live  miles  fioui  the  ('ia]i  and  a  lew  hun<Ired   yards  from  its  oullet  the  stre.uii  tumbles  over  a  piecipicc  twenty  feet  iiiyU  in 


a  sheet  of  water  th.it   looks  like  ,1  curt. tin  of  Lice.      On  an  allbient  of  the  I'.ushkill  are  two  other  cit.ir.uls  of  even  Jjre 


Mter  I 


le.intv 


>noun  as 


Hnttennilk  and   Marsh. dl,  both  of  which  mav  be  re.iche<l  in  a  h.ilf-hour' 


w 


;lk   fioiu   the  ri\er,  and    ire  withiit  se\iH  lUileS  \\\  llle  hotel  on 


T.im 


uian\ 


's  led;.;e.      .\  fe.itnre  of  the  Water  ti.i|i,  which  \  ies   in   interest  w  i 


th   tl 


le  natural  scener\ ,  i,  llic  Liihuid-ln-d  around  the  \\ 


iimu,in\  ,  wlure  it  exacts 


both  the  ri\fr  and  the  monntaiu,  in  order  to  secure  sullicieul  width  for  p.issaye.      At  this  \ioiui  the 

f  th 


^A\)  IS  u.inowest  and  the  cliffs  m.ist  stupendous,  rii^lit  where  the  j.iws  of  the  .i;ori;c  are  set  in   lirniest  resolution   to   priseiil  ,l  In 


Ik 


.f  th 


river,  auci  where  a  rus 


current  betr.ivs  irritation  at  the  iinpedinieiit  bv  a  ce.iscless  roar. 


Tweiit\-li\e  miles  above  the  Water  ('..i]i  is  another  section  of  wild  and  weirdly  )j;raiid  sccucia  ,wlu  le 


Dill'. 


111,111  s  C  ret 


irols  thnuiL 


the  coi)ses  and  t.ikes  a  he.ider  into  the  r)elaware,  like  a  swimmer  at  the  bath.     I)inj.;inan's  h'erry  is  a  small   h,iiiilel  cont.iininjj  a  score  01 


]v 


It  what  it 


.  Ill  ])( 


ation  is  made  up  in  imblic  interest  by  its  ])ictuies(|ue  sur 


buys.     The  n>;iou  is  intersected  b\  nnnieroiis 


streams,  whi'-li  ,ire  note<l   for  lluir  iui]ietuons  tnurses  ami  numerous  f.dls.      ( tf  tluse  Colosseiiiu   h'alls  are  the  lart;est, 


d   1 


IV   m.iiiv  are 


rcL'ardcd   as   the   most   beautiful 


it  Bridal  Veil  I'.dls 


re  cMiuisitely  f.iscinalinjj  to  the  .utist.      The  stre.im   is   not  larj;e,  but  ill* 


precipice  is  liij;li,  and  so  ij;racefnlly  terr.iced   that   the  w.iter  m.ikts  a  succession  of  k-aps,  and  eae  h  time  is  spread  by  the  lei 


itil  at  its 


last  fall  it 
fairv  bower 


veil. 


seilijy 


uks 


bosky  shelves  add  to  the  general  effect  in  u  way  that  compels  the  thought  of 


UKl   U. 11, 111 


retrcils.      l',icti'r\  {''.ills  .ne  llle  l.irL;est  c.it, tracts  of  this  s\lvan  ret^ioil,  ])i 


\ii  a  considerable  volume  of  water  over 


serrated  brinks,  and   twisting'  anmnd  in  sli,ipel\-  w.i'  s  th.it  add   iuelf.ible  ^r.ice  to  the  boilinjr,  lanjjhinjj  and  playful  waters.       Cadcdencai: 
Falls  are  alnio-t   as  j,;r,icefnl,  but   are  spread  over  .i  ,t;re,iter  surf.ice,  and  fall  into  the  creek  in  the  form  of  an  outspread  fan.      The  "  Hiake? 


id  lir 


of  Honiiv  Dn 


were  not  more  ch.irminy;  to  the  eves  of  the  ]ioel  th. in  the  soiil-deli)j;liLiiijj;  coverts  and  falls  about  I )iii,t;iuan's. 
In  the  sprin<j-time  the«e  streams  are  swollen  to  iiiiuieiise  jiroportions,  and  it  is  then  th.it  the  falls  display  their  greatest  grandetir,  fiUinir  the 
leir  torrential  orisons;  but  in  sumiiur  they  exhibit  the  most  marvelous  graces,  for  it  is  then  the  vv.itcrs  are  crystalline  in  their 


woods  wi 


thtl 


purity,  and  the  dewy  mosses  along  theirbrinkslook  like  garlands  of  diamonds,  which  the  branches  of  bordering  thickets  stoop  down  to  ki 


From  I) 


iii'Muaii  s 


I''erry  uur  jdioto^raiiher  ]).i-.sed  on  to  .Milfoid,  and  thence  bv  the  ]\rie  Ro.id  to  New  York  City,  where  a  junctiou 


was  made  with  the  two  other  ])liotographers  for  a  trip  to  the  sniiny  lands  of  the  Soutll. 


THNOllGH 


CM! AITI'.R  XIII. 

.ANGUOPOUS  LANDS  OF  THH  SUNNY  SOUTH. 


['"WlsW  Y(  M'i  K  Crr\'  (H«si-ss<-s  u  .»t\\  aUnu-tioiis  lor  tlic  CDMnniio  -'.m,  Inn  imt  for  ila-  artist,  who  prufi-rs  iiMtnn-'s  solitiKlcs  to  the  artificial 
kl  Kliuuol  atul  Uui-»\  \\\\\n  \4  rt  uWjjV  cit\  ;  luncc  om  sta\'  in  tli.j  fitv  was  mily  for  siu'li  tiiiiu  as  it  rt(|uivicl  to  make  prc'parations  for 
11  ivtiMnHtiy  (V(\V  )\iol\<tial  juHVUvy  lhvviu;h  -imiuii  r  lands  of  im<  sontliia^t.  Instiad  of  carr\  'ij;  onr  ori;;iiial  i)lans  into  ininu-diati- 
^  ^Al'l■u^^^^^l,  l\ov\(\\t,  il  \\v\i  >U'i-i(Ud  to  vi-it  the  hattle-fit  I'l  of  (litt)  sl>nr<;,  which  onr  artist  coniini;  \\\i  thronyh  Xir^inia  and 
,  ,  lVm>s\  Kama  dwl  tmt  tind  il  coiwctiicnt  to  inchidi-  in  his  juiirnc) .  The  town  of  ("icttyslmr^  has  a  population  of  sonic  ;'>,'iiiu  sotds, 
^"'  aixl  !■•*  tliv  \.\l>U,vl  of  Adams  connly,  IV  nti»\  Ivania,  tlui  ct-nti-r  of  a  hlooininjj  and  lionnti-onslv-prodncin;^  ai^ricullnral  district.  Onr 
y^iulc  U*  WAvh  0\V  )^^acc  was  h_\  \\a>  of  tin.-  Pcnns\  Kania  Railr^Mil  to"  If.iiiovtT,  and  tluncu  1)\  the  Wotcrn  Mar\  land  Railroad,  a  distance  of 
2.">0  n\ili  1  WvUU  S'ew  York.     The  landscape  theleabunt  is  nndnlatiny,  uecaf'iunaUy  rising  to  hills  of  considerable  size;  hnt  scenic, dly  there  is 

uotliing  particularly  attractive, 
aside  from  the  beailtifnl  farms 
and  trnck-i;ardens  that  clothe 
the  knolls  with  prodiL;al  har- 
vests. MistoricalK',  the  place 
is  imiierishably  famous,  for  here 
w  is  fout;ht,  on  the  1st,  2d  and 
:id  of  July,  l'^tl;l,  the  bloodiest 
and  hottest-contested  battle  of 
the  ci\il  war.  h'rom  c\erv  enii- 
lu  ncclhisdreadfid  field,  thon,i;li 
it  II  'w  smiles  with  plenty,  still 
pre>cnts  memorials  of  that  cvcr- 
inemorable  conflict.  There  is 
Ci  nieterv  Hill,  the  old  grave- 
I'Lh^  I'l  the  town,  where  tlion- 
sands.-.lr{rt"t)eforethea\v.ikcninff 
alarms  of  t.innon  and  mnsket 
iiui  loped  tW  scene  in  batt'c- 
siu.ike.  Here  it  was  that  the 
(nion  ioTcei,  undi  r  ('«iieral 
^'Irade,  jiiirclhed  tlreir  quarters, 
.se  m;  cvJinnianded  a  \iewof 
the  .idjanEUtt  cuitutry.  One  mile 
ni-  tfc'  west  is  Seminaiy 
,L.  -rfjnr  spot  chosen  by  the 
TOMB  OVHR  TIIF:  (  IRAVE  op  WASHINOTON'S  MOTIII-R,   a  I    FRRnERICKSBI'Ri,.   VIRGINIA.  CfflMililnwilie5>.3mferGcneTal  hee, 

44Q  20 


I  •! 


450 


.\mi;ric.\'s  woxdkrlanDvS. 


I 


•rii 


as  llkir  \.iiu,ii;r-]ioiiit  mii'I  In  ,i(l(|u.ntiis.  Xnw  s\vci|)  tlu'  lioii/oii  and  mark  tlic  ]ilai-is  wIkic  the  liattli-  waxed  furcrst;  wtu-rc  tlie  diad  lay 
tliiiki>t  ami  tin-  tlir.iKKr  of  Cdiillit't  w  is  Itiinkst.  'I'lu  re  is  W'illouj^hliv  R\iii,  wlure  tlie  liallle  lii^jan  and  wlurt-  Iliiford's  c'a\alrv  was 
lliirled  ripoii  llic  still  (if  Hill,  and  lur  twn  lioiirs  witlistnud  tlie  lull  iif  liall  ami  liaMinil  until  llesli  cdnld  endnro  no  ni<iri'.  Tliiti'  is  Koinxl 
Top,  anotliiT  cniinini'i- wliiMV  tli.' I'nion  linis  ivlornud,  with  tliu  lift  wiiij;  thrown  around  the  ridyis  to  Ciimtiry  Hill.  Thiru  is  where 
I.on^jstri'i't  striR-k  vSicklis  with 


such  fi'.irK'^s  ri'solutiou,  and  :' 
whole  day  was  spent  in  a  con- 
tention for  .'ireat  and  Utile 
Round  Top,  without  a<lvauta>;e 
to  either  side,  but  witli  frii^htfid 
lo»is  to  liiiih.  Now  on  Ciuie- 
tery  Hill  the  eyes  of  llie  world 
utiist  rest,  for  here  it  was,  on  the 
third  day,  that  such  fis;htin>;  was 
done  as  ('Tieek  nor  Roman  ever 
knew.  Alter  a  hill  at  midil.i\ , 
two  hundred  lira/.eii  throats 
were  opened  with  boom  and 
screaming  chills;  tlieair  hecanie 
filled  with  snii>ke,  au<l  the  eanli 
was  choked  with  ilead,  niilil 
there  came  a  hill,  out  of  which 
broke  a  column  three  miles 
lonj;,  who>e  yray  uuifonus  soon 
proclaimed  the  adxauee  of  Cieii- 
eral  I'ickett  leadiii<;  his  ariiiv 
in  a  des|ierate  resolve  to  storm 
the  Union  position.  N'ocharjje 
ever  made  was  more  terrilile, 
no  repulse  w.is  e\er  more  fatal. 
.\mericaus,  whatever  be  their 
sympathies,  whatever  their 
prejudices,  may  feel  proud  of 
the  heroism  disp'ayeil  by  both 
armies  on  th  it  day  of  carnage 
around  Cemetery  Hill.  It  was 
a  couraj,'e  that  j^lorifies  America. 


r"" 

14 

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■%                            *  ^          - 

^^ss,: "- 

*         ,     ■     ■ 

THH    DEVIL'S   IjEN,   BATTI.K-FIEl.I)  OF   ( iE  I TYSRURC'.. 


The  .^)4,0()0  souls  that  laid  down  their  arms  and  answered  roll-call  the  mornin^j  of  July  4th  on  the  parade-fjround.s  of  paradise,  were 
our  countrymen.  They  were  distiujjuished  by  uniforms  of  blue  and  Rray  then;  they  are  invested  with  robes  now  tli.at  are  woven  without 
color.     Let  the  trumpets  bl.ire,  and  the  drums  be  beaten,  but  let  it  be  on  Memorial  Day,  as  salutes  of  remembrance  for  the  heroes  wlio  died 


/ 


'IW'* ' 


,.r-*ir 


:r;  /v/*;^    v 


ROUND  TOF',  OVERLOOKING  THB   BA  i  1 1  Fllll  1 1  (  H-   '.  .1:  r  I  VSIU:K(  ;. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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23.   M15 


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Photographic 

Sdences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)872-4503 


4" 


iV 


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^ 


\ 


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45-^ 


ami:rica\s  udxdkrlaxds. 


'l|:    III. 


'|i 


I 


within  tho  i^ati-i  111  Ciuutciy  Hill,  ;it  Koiiiul  Top,  the  ,'^Ioir'  I'l  iiii,  Ctilp's  Hill,  Siiiiinaiy  Kidjjc,  \Villoiij;lil)y  Kiiii  and  Ikiinir's  Hill. 
('■(. ll\  >lniij;  is  (if  it^iU  a  nu^auiiuiil  In  Imiii.m  iiinr.ii;i-,  Iml  its  fiild  o(  bUiud  lias  hiiii  made  a  national  cunii'tiry  of  seventeen  acres, 
wliiih  WIS  didicited  with  ini|)o>in}^  enenuMiiis  on  Xoveniber  IS',  lSti;>,  at  wliieli  President  Lincoln  made  llie  j;'"'^''''^''''^  address  ever 
delivered  on  AnRricm  soil,  "Willi  malice  tow  aid  none,  willi  charily  for  all."  A  soldiers"  monnment  was  erected  in  1K(W,  which  is  sixty 
feet  hi^;h,  surnuJiiiUed  hy  a  marble  lij;n!e  of  l.iluMy,  and  occniiies  a  crown  of  the  hill,  where  it  is  a  conspicnons  object  for  miles 
and  arranged  in  semi-circles  abont  the  base  aie  the  ^'raves  of  nearly  ihree  thonsand  of  the  nnidentified  victims  of  the  dreadful  conflict. 
'•Thus  sK'tp  till'  liraM-    \\!ut  sunk  to 

rt';.i . 
li\-  all  lluir  Country  's  wishes  hUsl." 

I'lom  Cictly  slmr^h  onr 
route  w.is  soiithwot  to  W'.i^li- 
in.i;lnn,  and  lluiKe  by  way  of 
l'rederick.--burj;  to  Apptiniat- 
tox.  iMom  \\"a>liinj;ton  the 
Kichmoiiil,  iMcdcri  ckslnu  ij 
and  roloui.ic  R.ulroad  runs 
through  a  sterile  seclirn,  uun- 
lieved  by  either  ])ictureMine 
scenery  or  smiling;  field,  so  that 
a  part  ol  it  has  loui;  l)een  kuuw  ii 
as  the  Wilderues.s,  fainons,  luuv- 
ever,  a  i  the  .^ccue  of  many  ^uat 
battles  in  iMi;!-!,  m.iuy  traces 
of  which  aie  still  to  be  sei  n 
from  the  car  wiui!.>\vs  (jf  p.i.s>- 
inj;  lrain>.  lMedericksi)urj; 
is  (li>tingnished  also  as  the 
vicinity  in  which  \Va>liin^lcin 
was  b<jrn,  and  where  lie  spent 
the  ;;rea'er  p.irt  of  his  ymth. 
Here  it  w.is  al>o  that  Washing 
ton's  inother  li\ed  fur  a  Ion.; 
lillie,  and  died  in  17.s;i.  A 
nionnnieiit  erected  in  is.^;!,  in 
the  suburbs  of  the  town,  marks 


A   VII  I  A(iH   SC.ENH   OF   HAPPY   CONTCNT   IN   VIK^ilNIA. 


the  place  of  her  sepulture.  'INvehc  miles  beyond  l-redericksburji  is  the  battle-jjround  of  Spottsylvania  Court  Hou.sc,  where  .Stonewall 
Jackson  received  his  death  wound,  M.iv  :.',  iMtl:!.  Indeed,  the  rcj^ion  for  fifty  miles  thereabout  is  still  scarred  by  the  .strokes  of  contending 
arUiies  deli\ered  thirty  )ears  a.i;o,  and  cemeteries  in  which  re])Ose  the  heroic  dead  of  both  I'niou  and  Confederate  are  numerous,  m.irked 
by  many  miiiinnients  toattist  the  appreciaticiii  of  the  lixin;;  fortbe  s.icrifiees  which  wire  endured  in  those  dreadful  years  of  the  sixties.  Rut 
if  the  country  is  somewhat  barren,  and  ynu.-onie  with  riniinders  «.  f  fratricida'   strife,  it  is  not  entirely  destitute  of  the  phases  that  lend 


Hill. 

acres, 

iS  cvor 

sixty 

inilcs 


'■< 


A\   Ol.l)   (OloMAl.   IIOLM-;    Al    AIM'l  )MA  I  K  )\,  VIKC.IMA. 


. :  i^'iMi  i!i.ii  I  iv  L I  !Nr*RiMnm»n«nMivnnnnmi«n 


j|ir::|ll 


h.  .  ji 


454  AMI-;RIC.\S  WONDI'RI.AXDS. 

i-lK-<.rliiliR>s  to  liii.      Iliu-  is   i-Miili.iliy  tlu-  l.iml   nl   liipl'v    iuj^iiks,  wIkic   iimmhv  mImhukIs  \villi   joy,   for  .-ilisi'iu t.-  nl  ns|i<)ii.sil)ilit\    i?; 

loiiUiiuiunt  nf  niiml  v  itli  the  cnluuil   xmw     At  llii'  ilii'nl  lliiiv  is  always  a  swaiin  nf  i)iikaiiiiiiiiis  ia<;tr  to  si'iaiiilik'  (or  ]Kiiiiifs  thrown  to 

the  crowd,  ami  tlii.'  most  loiiiiial  smus  iiii.ij^iiialik' ociiir  at   tliisi' tiissli-s,  for  llu'  little  ilarkiis  tluiiisi  !\is,  in  an  airay  of  all  si/.is  and 

.sliadi-s  of  111  K'k  and  lirown,  a  iiiim|mu\  of  t,ittir<liinalions  tli.il  would   put  i'lnuli  and  Jndy  to  rout,  arc  ludicrous  cnou;,;li  to  make  a  Roat 

lanj;li.      Tlic  strcct-sccucs  of  \illai4cs  ucar-l)\  ,  as  well  as  in  ,1k'  sulmrlis  of  iMcdericksliur;.;,  are  e(|ually  whimsical,  ])resentini.;,  as  the\'  often 

do,  hnm.m   nature  in   its  most   <^rotes<|iic  aspect,      ilotsis   au    rarclv   used   liy   ne^Mocs   for  drau<.;ht   ]iur|io>es;  mules  more   frc(|nentl\  ;  lint 

bnlls,  cows  and   vearlins;  calxcs  ,ire  the  chitf  dt  iieudeuc  <  ,  and   carls  the   popular  st\le  of  cou\eyance  with  these  h.ippy -no-lncky  ]ieop!c. 

Tllere  is  no   need    for   liable, 

and  the  lo.ids  arc  ne\er  l,iii;c, 

hence  a  yukc  oi   cattle    are  as 

handy  as  a  span  of  horses,  .lud 

I'referalile  hecanse   slow  uio\e- 

tncnt  allows  more  slceji  on  the 

way.      The    sun    makes    tlie 

tobacco    j;row,    and    the    r.dn 

makes  nnisic  on  the  c.iliin-roof; 

so  rain   or  shine    the  d.irkc\ 's 

heart   is  always    li^ht  and  the 

future  is  hidden  from  him  li\  a 

veil   of   jircsent  deliyhl.      Such 

sij>lUs  teach  the  \  .due  of  content, 

even  if  they  dooftend  .unliiti.iu, 

.md  in  them  the  philosoplur's 

stone  has  its  hidini;-])I.u-e. 

From  I'rederickslinri;  our 
route  was  northwest  to  Appo- 
mattox and  thence  lasl  li\  w,i\- 
of  Richmoiul  to  h'oitress  .Mon- 
roe, on  the  peninsula.  W'e  were 
a  little  disaiijiointed  to  timl  the 
site  of  the  cuhninalinjL;  event  c^f 
the  w.ir  destilule  of  au\-  sjieei.d 
feature   of   intir(--t    of   either   ,i 

natural  or  artihci.d  ch.iraeter.  'I'lie  sci  iie  of  surrer.der  is  not  even  marked  hy  a  monnmeiU,  and  the  country  therealiont  is  a  ])ale  and 
.somber  stretch  of  jioorlv -eulli\  ,Ui-d  I.ukK.  Wt  there  are  exceptions;  for  occasionally  the  monotony  tif  cabin  and  broken  fence  is  relieved  bv 
prolific  toI>acco-tKl<l>,  jiretty  towns,  and  iiuitinj,'  manors  adorned  with  colonial  hon.ses  that  still  preserve  their  old-time  air  of  comfort  and 
Southern  lluspil.dit\.  \"iri,'ini.i  well  (kser\es  the  title  of  lUe  I)ominion  State,  not  only  because  she  is  the  mother  of  Presidents,  but 
bccau.se  she  is  also  distin^^nished  as  the  native  state  of  many  of  the  (greatest  men  and  women  born  on  .\nierican  .soil.  "  To  be  a  X'ir^inian,  is 
to  be  a  j,'{  lUlem.iu,"  h.is  piss  d  into  an  ada^c;  and  the  conntrv  is  proud  of  her  for  a  hundred  reasons,  w  Inch  reference  to  history  will  explain. 
If  lier  soil   is   not  the   must   lerlile,  \it  her  lej;aey  is   the  richest,  for  she  ^a\eto  the  world  sncli  men  as  \Vasliinj,'ton,  Madison,  Jefferson, 


rOIMKI  ss   MoM'Oi:.  VIRi.lMA. 


ilitv   i^ 

(IWIl   tl 

ris  am 

a  KOi't 
y  ofU'i 
1\  ;   Imt 

pfOplf 

1 

■  i 

.  '.  # 

lale  an 
evfd  1) 
fort  an 
nts,   1)1 
inian,  i 
cx])laii 

l-fflTSOl 

1 

1 
t 

s 

. 

AN  Ol.n  CABIN  HOME  IN  C.FORtllA. 


'•.': rv.;;'--i;  i-^"-  — -'yrr " '  *    •'■•'^^'wrftmr^t 


^ 


45« 


.\mi-;ric.\'S  wdxdhri.axds. 


'"   il 


nil 


1 1 


"11 


Raiuliili>li,  Cl.i\  ,  I,n  ,  iiiul  a  iIu'u^.ukI  otlurs  wlinsu  n.mk^.mil  (IhmN.ui'  .iliki-  iiM]Hii>1i.iliK-.  ImmHiss  Mniiroc  is  iiiclicd  ))y  lliu  Clifsapcake 
anil(iliic>  K.iihii.iil,  o\i  r  wliii'h  loulf  \\c  tiavrlid  Ikpiu  ApiHMii.iUov.  Il  is  ImMtnl  at  llu-  jiciiiil  of  ;i  piiiiiisula,  fniimd  li\- tliL-  I'oik  and 
JaiiRs  kiwis,  \vliiili  |Mujiots  into  Clii-ainakc  Itay  wluiv  it  joins  tin-  Atlantic.  Tin-  sitnatioil  is  ])aitiinlaily  favorable  for  a  ('lONt-ninicnt 
forlM'^s,  anil  its  iiatnial  and  i-oinmandinij  ad\anta.i;rs  li.ivo  Iktu  fully  iilili/.td,  for  it  is  tlic  i.nmst  and  .stronj^ist  fortificMtion  in  Anicrii-a. 
lIanii>ton  Ko.ids  stparatis  tlic  |iiiint  of  tlic  ]>i  nin^ula  fo'ni  tlu'  o|'])osite  land.  'I'liis  IhmIv  of  watir  is  aliont  five  niik's  wide  and  forms  tlio  ont- 
kt  of  J.ink^  l\i\i  r.  It  w.is  in  tlx-  R.miN  tli.il  tin.-  ino>t  f.inions  of  niodi  in  n.iv.d  h.ittks,  liitwiiu  tliL>  Moiiilor  and  tin.'  Miiiiiinu  (  \ir);ini.i  )> 
took  I'laii.  M.iicIi'.'.Im:;.'. 
Two  iniks  liilow  I'ortriss 
Moiiioi'  is  ( )ld  Point  Com- 
fort, a  very  popuLir  resort 
anil  tile  si.it  of  tlie  N  i- 
tion.il  Soldii  rs'  Ibmu  . 
Newport  News  is  nine 
miles  alio\e  the  l'ortre>N, 
on  ILinii'ti'ii  Rii.uK;  and 
Yolktown,  tile  Jilaee  of 
Corn\valli>'  siirrcnikr  to 
Wash  i  nj;t  nil  ,  (-eti'l'er 
11',  17."<1,  is  t\veiU\-t"i\e 
miles  n.ii  t  h  ,  on  V^rk 
Riser,  lii^li  pl.ues  p.i>- 
.se-ss'iij;  j^reat  hislnrie  iii- 
tc'est  for  events  of  wliiili 
tile>  werethe  si  ■  nedinim; 
the  RiAolution.iry  w.ir. 

Crossi  n  j;  ILimptmi 
Roads  liy  ste. liner  to  Nor- 
folk, we  ])roeeedi.il  south- 
w.iid  liy  the  N.Mlnlk 
Son  t  hern  R  i  i  1  ro.id  , 
ihron.^^h  a  re;.;ioii  knnwii 
as   the    ni^iii.il    .Sw.imii, 

fanmiis  alike  in  f.iet  ami 

r   ,■     ,         MM,       ,    ,,        ,  lil'IWMOMiS    I   \Ki:,   IN   (iRIM    lilSMM,   SWWtl'.  Vll'i.lMA. 

tielion.        1  he    ti  nil     has 

keen   indelibly  alh\eil  to  two  extensive  .stretches      ;   inor.i-s,  the  larj^er  of  which   lies  hetwieii  the  J. lines   River  on  the  north  and  Albc- 

m.irle  vSoniid  on  the  south,  thus  co\erinj;  a  jLirt  of  \iri;inia  and  North  Carolin.i,  lia\  in;,'  a  length  of  about  fortv  miles  and  a  kieadtli  of 

twerty-fixe    miles.       Little  Di^ui.d  Swamp  is  wholly  vithiii  North  Carolina,   in  the    ]ieiiiiisiila   between  Albiiiarle  Sound  and  Piinlico 

Sound,  and  while  occiipv  in;.;  eoii~iiler.;bl\'  k-s  th.iii  one-third  as  much  area  as  Ciieat  Dismal,  i.s  prob.ibly  better  ktiown  to  reade  s  necatise  of 

the  tr,i;.;ei!ii.  s  whii  h  ii.ive  been  en.icted  within  its  d.irk  and  gloomy  districts.      Speakinif  jrelicrally,  the  .swamps  are  composed  of  a  si)ongy, 

veyet.ible  soil,  but  wilhoiit  aii\  nii\luie  of  e.irth,  uliirh  supports  a  di  n>e  jjrowth  of  aipiatic  plants,  brush-woe  I  and  timber.      .Sir  Charle.s 


^^ 


Ul.lJ  I  OK  I    AND  SbA  WAI.I,  A  I    SI.  Al!(;USriNb.  I  l.OKIUA. 


45« 


AMHRICA'S  WONDKRLAXDS. 


'I  I    VS 

M. 

'   I'll! 


I.ycll,  till'  (listiiij;iii>hi(I  n<->'l"K'^t>  ^^•'■'^  l""'^'  I"  '"■•">;  to  notice  tlic  curious  fact  tliat  tlic  surface  of  tlie  .swaui])  is  actually  twelve  feet  lii};her 
in  many  iil.ucs  tlian  the  surroundiuK  couutr\ ,  .'o  that  its  drainage  is  outward,  except  wiicre  a  few  small  streams  How  in  from  the  west  »i<le. 
The  center  of  ("ire. it  Dismal  is  oiciipied  hy  Pninnnond's  Lake,  an  o\al  basin  six  miles  lonj;  and  three  wide,  with  pi  rpendicular  banks  and 
fifteen  feet  depth  of  water.  In  and  around  this  lake  is  a  veritable  ]),iradise  for  hnnters,  for  its  waters  abound  with  fish  and  wild  fowl,  and 
the  adi.ice'it  woods  are  the  favorite  haunts  «if  <leer,  bears,  • -.Id-cats,  coons  ami  swamp-rabbits.  The  re).;ioii,  inexpressibly  dreary  as  it  is, 
ciintributes  largely  to  e<Mnnierce  by  furnishinj;  innneti.sc  supplies  of  timber.  To  facilitate  trauspurtatioii  the  C.reat  Swump  is  intersected  by 
canals,  the  two  l.iri;e--t 
beiiiji;  those  which  con- 
nect the  I'lliz.ilielh  and 
I'.isquutank  Ri\ers,  and 
l^lizabeth  River  with 
Carritiick  Sound. 

vSonie  (lueer  little 
cabins  are  built  alon;^; 
these  water-ways,  a  few 
beinj^  occupied  by  tim- 
ber cutters,  but  i;enerall\ 
thiy  are  the  teni])orar\- 
abodes  of  hunters  who 
find  shootiujj  and  tr.ip- 
pin;j;  both  pleasuralile 
.lud  i)rofitable,  and  who 
work  at  lo^;).;in)j  out  of 
Sjamc  season.  Little  I'is- 
ui.d  Swamp,  thoU).;!! 
smaller  than  its  more 
northern  neij^hbor,  i^ 
very  much  more  dense 
with  brush-wood,  and  <le- 
eidcdly  more  forbiddin;;, 
because  its  jjloomy  depths 
rarel  y  echo  wit  h  t  he 
voice  of  man,  or  the 
sound  of  the  woo<lniau's 

ax.  iMlty  years  a,i;o  it  w.is  the  refn^'c  of  runaway  ne>;roes,  and  a  clan<;erou.';  place  for  a  white  man  to  be  .seen,  beeau.se  the  blacks  who  hid 
iu  its  thick  coverts  were  Usii.illv  of  the  most  desj)eratc  character,  who  would  not  hesitate  at  crime.  One  of  the  best-remembered,  because 
the  most  tra;,'ic,  nei^ro  iusurrectious  th.it  ever  r>ccurred  iu  Vir^'iuia  was  headed  by  a  Samsonian  black  named  Nat  Turner.  l'n<ler  his 
leadership  more  than  a  hundred  armed  nefjroes  rose  aRain.st  their  masters  and  massacred  a  score  of  men,  women  and  children.  When  a 
fuflRcicnt  force  of  whites  w.is  mustered  to  oppose  them,  the  ne};roes  fle<l  to  Little  Dismal  Swatnp,  where,  after  j^reat  lenjjth  of  time,  they 
were  starved  into  surrender.      Nat  Turner,  however,  was  last  to  sidmiit  to  his  ])ursuers,  and  connnitted  so  many  crimes,  while  the  search 


A   HUNTERS  CABIN   ON   THM   r.\N\l.   lilSMAI     S\V\MP. 


1 

4 


CONCK   DE   LEON   HOTEL,  ST.   AUGUSTINE,   FLORIDA. 


/" 


irfrr 


'I  I.  Ill' 

;i'i, 


II.     ;r> 


400 


AMlvRlC A'S  \\().\Di:i; LANDS. 


I   «.i-  ,il  l,i-t  i,i|iluu(l  tliinii^ii  l„lr.i\,il  lis  11  iiiyin  wlinin  lie  liiislid,  and  aftfr 


fi'i  liiiii  cciiitiiiiit  il,  til. It  liis  \ii\   ii.iiiU'  Ipic.miu'  ,1  liiii'i;  jiiit  li 
(liu- Iri.ii  w.is  cmuiiUd  aiiil  liaiimi 

()iiriu\t  hahiii);  piaivoii  tin-  nij.lii  vmlliu.ii,!  was  Sa\aiMia!i,  tlu^  ( '.air  C'ilv  ,  as  it  is  tin-  (Jiuiii  Cily  of  llii'  Soiiili.  Wxt  to  Atlanta 
ill  onniniivial  ini|M.rtana  ,  Savannah  is  easily  fust  ..|  all  >:ainv  inuro|.,.li  in  llu- sn|u  rl)  iK-aiity  i.? its  .situation  and  the-  |.,iik  (•i.indiMir  of  its 
snr.unn.lin-s.  11.  n-  it  «.is  tli.it  C.Mutal  ()),Hltli..i|,c  i,,iiii,!r.l  his  C.o.iKi.i  iui..ny  i-.iilv  in  17;i:i;  and  Iho  lliMirisliiii),'  i-ii\ ,  from  whii-li  the 
first  oi'iMii  .slianur  that  i\i  r  .it- 
Uini>tril  to  i-io>s  the  Atl.intit 
s.iik(!,aii<l  its  r.ink  as  the  si  ( - 
onil  c. .til. 11  pnvt  uf  the  I'liitid 
S;a'e>,  are  sinking;  pinois  ol 
hi'  lMre>i);ht  and  exieikiit  dis- 
criiiiin.itiiin. 

'I'he  city  is  situ.itid  on  a 
bold  lilllff  o\erlonkiiln  the  Sa- 
N.inn.iii  ki\ir,  a'oiij,'  wliieli  it 
extends  in  a  eiirved  front  for  ,1 
di>t.iiiee  of  three  miles,  atford- 
ill.ir  iNi-ellellt  wIl.irf.lKe.  The 
stHils  are  all  \irv  limad  ,ind 
'll.iyinlK'eiltly  sh.ided,  while 
parks  eoiit.iinin;;  one  to  three 
aeres  oeetir  at  all  the  iiriiieip.d 
inler»retioiis,  eh.iniiiiiyly  laid 
out  .md  lieaittilled  with  tlower>, 
which  amw  in  ih.it  w.iriii  eli- 
111. ite  in  the  rielK-.t  lHolusion. 
I'i'Wer  ).;.irdens  constitute  one 
of  the  most  characteristic  fea- 
••'ve^iif  the  ]il,ui,  for ani.ijorils 
nl  the  residences  are  siirromided 
liy  aiii]ile  jiroiinds  that  are 
al'looni  with  lliiweriii;^  ]i!,iiil^ 
throiij;hoiit  the  year.  This  i-. 
the  liofderlandof  .suiithern  e\ei- 
j^reeiis,  where  the  st.itely  o.ik  is 

festooned  with  jiearl-.^ray  inos^is,  and  the  or.in^jc  and  the  mai^'iiolii  fill  the  air  with  delicious  perfniiies.  .Mmis,'  the  .streets,  too,  nre  rows  of 
linwerinL;  ole.inders,  p..nieL;raiiates,  palmettos,  bananas,  laurels,  l>a\s  and  sweet  craj)e-myrtles.  Itiit  of  all  the  heanties  about  S.ivaiinah  none 
rr.,d  the  eli.iiins  of  lioiiaveiitnie  Cemetery,  fourmi.cs  from  tile  city,  on  Warsaw  River,  and  reached  l)y  a  shell  road  that  is  c(|nal  to  any 
'':;\e-way  in  the  world.  I'Acry  ),'r.i\e  is  a  flower-I.ed,  and  llie  lonjr  a\emies  caiiopiid  with  nioss-j^'arlandeil  oaks  jirescilt  a  ])ictlire  .\rcadiail 
ia  i.i  luvelines-.,  and  siij;i;esli\e  of  lho>e  llowery  j;l.ides  throii'^h  whiidl  immortals  miv;ht  dili^ht  to  wander. 


no\AVf:Nri'i'(-;  ccMRTbr^Y,  savannah,  r.EORr.iA. 


Ol  1)  CIIY  (JAIbS,  SI.   All. US  MM;,  IKJKIUA. 


"■^g^^^P^'WHll 


I* 


40^ 


AMKRIC AS  \\()M)I;RI,.\\1)S. 


Ill 
I.  Ill  It' 


ihi 


11, 1 


ii> 


III 


'rill'  iiMiiun  (li^liiit  .ilimit  S.iv.iiiii.ili  i^  scpiiii  wli.it  -iiiiil.ir  in  appciramv  tn  tli.it  of  Wi'strni  North  Catolin:i,  fvi-riii  tli.il  ils  ttioiiiitaiiii 
ori"  lint  lu.itly  M)  lii:;li.  'IMu'  .suil,  llow  t\ir,  is  ]ii.ii  tii  .ilK  tin-  >,iliii-,  a-  arr  tin-  .smial  idiiditiniis;  and  In  iicv  t!ii'  oin-.t.iiil  miiiiuiir  of  lliat 
M'l'tiiin  w  liiili  wo  li.iM  alunlv  (U -t  rilml.  'I'lif  nlil  Ih^j-imImii  is  a  lainiliar  si;;lit  in  Cudi^jia,  <ift(  11  \  iiir-wnatlitd,  and  .slidwiii);  sij^iis  «>( 
jjriMt  aiiiiiiuit\ ,  with  ri"'!*  I'l  i  lap- 'maid,  upon  w  liiili  ilic  rain  ]iattirs  iiki'  tlii'  iiiiij^-inl!  luat  of  a  snau-diiiin.  Tlif  pictnic  w  liicli  »•»•  prcMiit 
is  t\  piial  of  this  I'lass,  and  .111  tvanipli'  as  will  of  rural  sitnpiiiity.  IlniiU'K,  liattirid  liy  titiic,  anil  iiKordiiiK  frw  coinforl'i,  yrt  ill  siudl 
caliiiH  unalnis*  has  oiic  m  li.id  its  liirth,  nor  sroriu'd  .siuli  hninlilf  nativity.  Ilnw'  many  nun  of  hiyh  i-stalc  lie  down  in  tin-  drapt-rv  of  fine 
liiuii  ind,  w  In  n  ni^;lit  li.is  toldrd  tlii'  cittli  in  In  r  saMf  aiiiiN,  think  of  tlic  old  caliiii  Iminc  in  f',(  nr;;ia;  of  tlu-  loiii;  tiitic  av;o;  of  the  lnilililiMi; 
spriiij;  in  ilic  hnllww  and  the  yoiird  that  hnny;  li\  it;  of  the  yrajn-viiic  .swiny,  and  the  tows  muuin^  in  llic  jiasliirc;  of  father  and  iiiutln."., 
and  the  j;ra\es  011  tho  hilKidi . 
And  tliftc  i^  a  sij^h  fi^ni  the 
lu.iil.  'I'lu'  olil  tiiiii'  u.i>  iIk 
ihisli  ol  liu's  iiiniiiiny ;  it  i 
jjtottinj;  i-vi  liill^  now  ,  and  tlu 
.sliadnws  ,iii'  i'iii]iiiiy  lip  tlu- 
slo|K>.  S'l.iii  till'  ])n-iiit  w:'! 
he  tlu-  "old  tillU-"  In  m.: 
childtiii.  llowinaiiN  nuiiwli" 
h.ivc  ailiii  \i  d  j^riatnos  woiil,; 
exehaii;,c  tluir  ]in>si -sinii<  imd 
positions  f.ir  \outll  and  the  old 
cahiil  lioiiK-  as  thiy  see  it  Mow 
in  tluir  dreams!  Many,  \es, 
very  in  my. 

lux  p.iralile,  almost,  from 
the  loK-hoii>e  of  the  Soiuluni 
poor,  is  tlie  eahin  home  of  the 
nej;r(>,  lieeause  llie  two  are 
separated  hy  siieh  a  tliin  line  of 
distiiietioii  that  o'lly  critical  in- 
•spection  cm  i)re\i  iit  them  from 
assimil.itiiij.;  in  tlie  niiiids  of 
thosL-  iiiif.miili.ir  with  Southern 
life.      There  is  the  same  stone-  *   ""«''    '^   ^111;    MniNTMN^  OF   C.mpr.n. 

chimney  anil  clap-hoard  roof,  hut  the  colored  man's  cahin  is  a  sin^jle  room,  and  the  front  is  jiorehless.  More  h.isty  coii.stniction  is  also 
noted,  for  the  loj^s  are  l.iid  like  a  turkey-pen,  and  cl.ip-hoards  are  used  a>;,iiu,  not  for  weather-ho.irdiiij;,  lint  as  a  siihstitnte  for  li.itteu. 
Windows  are  imt  needed,  tliroii;;li  which  to  exehan^je  civilities  with  the  sea.son,  for  there  are  holes  and  crannies  to  let  smoke  out,  and 
plenty  of  aeei(U  iit.il  eiur.inees  lor  the  warm  snmincr  air  to  get  in.  It  is  thu.s  at  small  effort  and  no  care  the  worst  weather  is  kept  out,  and 
coiltentediKss  rei;.;MS  within. 

Throiijjh  Cieorj^ia  and  into  the  land  of  oranjje  groves  we  sped,  .sto])ping  a  day  at  Jacksonville,  and  then  hurried  on  to  San  Angn.stine, 
the  oldest  town  in  America  (founded  by  the  Spanish  in  l.'iti.'i),  and  possibly  the  nio.st  interesting.      It  is  a  link  which  connects  the  present 


/ 

t. 

.  Wf^-^ 

/ 

— 

V>..j 

X 

.     / 

-^^mitmmmmtmmi^...ifi 

y, 

, 

^HsusuMuii^i 

^^mi//y    ''^ 

\ 

\ 

^^^^^^^B^"''-. ' 

0 


'J 
y. 

O 


i::^r7f^ 


W' 


'I .  Ill' 

,11' I. 

Il 


I 


I'll! 


464 


AMHRICA'S  \V0\DI':RI-A\I)S. 


with  tlic  i-.irlicst  ovtnts  cif  distovt-rv  in  our  comitry — .1  link  ni>ty  with  tlif  MckmI  nf  timi|ui'st  Mini  iiKinynliun.  Hcic  it  was  that  ''^•i)anisli 
ciiaitv  ami  iMviK-h  ivi.iliatiim  \mh-  caiiicd  to  the  iiio>l  liailiaric  cxliviiii',  and  the  (.ii-.laMiiKiil  of  iiati\u  Indians  l)f);an.  l'as>.in>;  through 
thf  Inst  ordi-als  of  Mtllcnuiit,  a  ciiitiny  later  il  was  liittcriy  alllifti'd  hy  raids  of  Indians  and  the  iihifaU'rinj;  of  ])irates,  so  that  its  j>;n)\vth 
was  pn  vintid,  and  no!  nntil  ihi-  ririti>h  snrri.nikrii)  ivi>sission  to  the  United  Stales  in  InlM,  did  the  i)laec  show  any  indications  of  per- 
nianeiu'\  ,  or  llial  it  wonld  attain  to  any  iniporlanee  l)eyon(l  what  it  had  hef-.ire  reached  as  a  very  .^n  dl  villaj;e. 

St.  .\n;;n-tine  is  local^'don  a  narrow  peninsula  formed  hy  the  Matan/as  and  ,S  ui  Sebastian  Rivers,  and  is  separated  from  tlie  ocean 
b\  An  i>ta^ia  Island.  I'lom  a  ]>lace  of  little  eonseijnence,  in  the  last  few  years  it  has  become  dislini;nished  as  the  most  ])opiilar  winter  resort 
in  the  Siiulh.  Se\eial  ihini;^  ha\e 
ton-pired  to  luins;  ahonl  lliis 
chan,i;e,  chief  oi  which,  liowe\er, 
was  the  enterprises  of  Mr.  H.  M. 
l".i'.;ler,  who,  recoy  "  i -' i  "k'  it^ 
f.wor.iMe  loe.uion.  resohed  to  con- 
vert the  town  from  a  listless,  skep- 
ini;,  ]>overl\ -stricken  vill.i^;e  into 
such  .in  Ivlen  of  lowliness  as  the 
arts  of  ni.m  cm  cre.ilc.  In  acconi- 
]>r-hin.i;  this  object  he  spent 
};,;,ii(  PI  1,(1(11 1,  and  the  improvenienls 
,ire  of  .•^nch  .1  diameter  as  ui.iv  well 
~ati-f\'  his  ambition.  The  I'oiice 
de  I. eon  lloiel  is  a  re\i\,il  of  the 
richest  examiiles  of  .Nbiorish  arciii- 
teetnrc.  It  is  old  Spain  of  the 
yolden  rei-n  of  lbn-I-.\liniar  trans- 
ported to  .Aniericiii  shores.  \nd 
str.iny;e  coincidence  it  is,  lh.it  llie 
vear  in  which  Colninlms  set  s.iil  on 
his  t'lrsl  western  Vi  ;wi.i;e  in  (inest  of 
e.istern  I.  lids,  the  xe.ir  of  the 
Moo-.ish  I'!\pnlsi(iii,  the  be.intilnl 
.Mliainbra,  most  in.iy;iiitk'eiit  build- 
in;;  lh.it  e\ei  graced  the  earth,  w.is 
j;i\en    o\er    to    v.iu'l.ilisin    and 

spolia^itin.  The  I'o'.ue  de  I. eon,  with  its  l.nish  .idornnient.  pictiires(|ne  stsle  and  e\(|uisite  ^^rnuiids,  in  wliich  e\erv  known  tropical  l>lailt 
is  ni.ide  to  add  its  beantv  ami  slud  its  fr,ii;r.iiice,  while  foiiiu.iins  cool  the  suiniiur  air,  is  a  reiiiiiukr  of  the  ,i;re,it  palace  of  Ciienada,  and 
the  chi\alry  of  .Sp.iin  in  the  time  of  Colninlms. 

Hut  the  interest  to  St.  .\iii,'nstine  \isilors  is  imt  coitllned  to  the  I'once  de  I.eon,  j^lorioiis  as  it  is,  joined  thoiij.;h  it  be  to  its  almost 
ecinally  sniierb  annexes,  the  Cordova  and  .Mcazar,  for  the  citv  is  filled  with  the  relics  of  an  oldeii  time,  and  ;tssoci,itioiis  tllat  .ire  allllo^.t 
]iainfnl  to  rec.dl.     .Monj;  its  water-front  extends  a  si  a  wall  oil"  mile  in  leiijjtli  anil  ten   feel  broad,  iniilt  of  coqnina  and  coped  with  jjranite, 


I'HH   H1:\I)  or   IIMirw   I'lVIP,    \B(^VI    n!;voM). 


AVIiNUI;  <  II    MO^VCDVhKHlJ  OAKS,  WW  OkMOM),  I  I  ( )kll)A. 

30 


It' 


it 


'ill 


I 
11,      ,j 

if"' 


}Cib 


ami;rii;.\"s  \\()\1)i:ri..\\i)S. 


loiiniiiL,'  an  iiK-iMiip.ir.ililo  i>niiiU'ii,icK'  lutwii'ii  tin-  I'M  I'l  iiu-iMMii  iiioiListcrv ,  now  n-.iil   as  a  barracks,  anil  tlio  ancii-nl   fort  of  vSan  Marco, 

now  known  as  I'.^vt  .Marion.      'I'lioii-li  n.'t  the  ni"-t  lorniiikililc.  tlioc  anl?.|nc  lortirications  rank  all  ollicrsof  this  conntry  in  interest.     'I'liiir 

constrne'ion  w.is  licj;un  1>\   Mi  luncKv.  dc  .\\iKs  in  l.'ii;.',  at  tlic  lime  of  the  founclin;^',  hnt  wi'rc  not  coinjilctcil  nntil  two  ccntnrics  later,  all  of 

the  work  heinij  i)erfornuil   hy  ensl.weil  Inili.in^.      'I'lie  lorlilie.itii'ns  eo\ir  ahont  lour  acres,  and  the  walls  are  of  coi|nin,i,  a  coiijjlonierate  of 

shells  ami  s.inil   liron.i^ht   frotu  .\n,ist,i>ia   Isl.nul,  which,  soft  when  dux,  li-iidens  liv  exiiosnre.      The  fort   is  a  s|)lendid  example  of  the  best 

niilitar\  .inliitecture  of  the  time,  beiiis,'  in  tile  sh.ipe  of  a  traiie/inm,  suironmled  b\-  a  wide  ar.d  deep  nio.it,  and  with  w.dls  twent\-one  feet 

lii;;h,  -l!,ii  p  b.i-tions  at   the  cornels,  thick  Ci-i  m.iles,  and  >nbterr,ine.in   passa,<;es  and  vaults  which  niii,'hl  .serve  eipially  for  refn^je  ports  or 

duui^eou--.      Th.it  some  of  these  were  used 

for  the  1. liter  jmrpose  is  ]>ro\ed  by  the  f.ict 

th.il  in  oi.e  of  the  li.ist  acces.-ible  dnn<;eon- 

ronnis,    tile   eiur.mce  to   which    w.is  acci- 

dciiMlK    lonnd,   two   >kiletons   cli.iiiRd   to 

the  wall   we'e  disco\  iivd.      W'h.it   a  story 

of  snfferini;  these  nii.!.;ht  tell    if  they  toiild 

spe.ik! 

In  the  e.irlier  centuries  a  w.ill  e\h  iided 
across  iIk-  piiiiusui.i,  which  pioti  ru  d  llie 
city  from  atl.ick  on  the  north  side,  but 
nothiui;  now  reniainsof  this  defense  except 
the  old  cil\  i^'ates,  .it  the  he. id  of  ,St,  Ciiirj^e 
street.  Tlu'-e  are  ni.issive  sipi.^ic  towers 
fifteen  feel  hi.ijll,  Jiierced  with  lo..p-h<iKs, 
and  al  the  b.i-e  of  e.ich  is  a  senlry-bo\, 
which  tile  i;ii.iiils  iiccupied  wliiat  on  dulw 

N\  .ir  the  ci  uur  of  ilu-  bu-iiie-s  p.irt  of 
the  cil\  is  the  old  sl.ixe-ni.irket,  adjoiuinii 
which  is  the  riti-.ii  lii-  /,i  C'i'>/<////ii  'I'li,  con- 
taining; a  nil  •llliUU  111  elecUd  ill  1  s  1  J 
coniniinioi.ilix  e  of  llu-  ,Sp.iiii>h  Liber.d 
Cuiisliiniiiiii,  while  .mother  ninuunuiil 
sl.inds  in  front  nf  the  old  Market,  which 
W.IS  erected  in  l-sT'.',  in  lioiinr  of  the  Con- 
federate (U.iil. 

liesides  beiui,' .1  yre.il  winter  te-Mirl,  .St,  .Vui^Mistine  is  a  place  of  some  connnercial  importance,  its  larjjcst  indnstr\  beinjj  the  niannfact- 
iire  of  palmetto  h.ils,  while  in  the  cipii\int>  a  fine  (|U.dity  of  lace  ^oods  is  iiia<le,  by  ^irls  and  the  nuns  in  ch,u<;e. 

It  is  about  .seveiitv-five  miles  from  St.  .\uj;ustine  to  ( )rmoud  by  the  lack.sonville,  Tanijia  and  Kev  West  Railroad,  one  of  the  branches 
oi  the  I'l.int  .System,  who^e  terminus  is  D.iylona,  the  miles  In  low  ( >rmoiid.  Indeed,  nearly  every  road  in  I'lorida  is  the  property  of  the 
I'l.int  ci.nip.un  .which  li.is  pinveii  a  I  icli.rof  incilciil.ible  beiufit  to  the  .Sl.ite,  and  has  reaped  corrcspondini,'ly  ^reat  reward.  Ormond  is  located 
on  the  !uad  of  ll.ilif.i\  Ri\er,whiih  is  a  put  of  the  Indian  River  I.a.nodii,  couiu  i  ted  by  the  Mosquito  Haul-Over,  or  canal.  Wo  are  now  in 
the  su!)-tropics,  and  anion),;  the  paridi.saic  delights  of  a  marvelous  .sun-browned  land, where  the  muekinn-bird  opens  the  matin  competition  in 


I'MMimn  HITS   \H\R   TITl'SVllLE,  ri.ODIDV. 


l<!'UUi:i<,   111^    H\NV\N    IKHi:,   f)N    H\N\N\    H\\l-\'.   l|(iKlli\. 


r;t      li- 


^1:..  itr 


,!l'li 


'I 


.(OS 


AMIvRICA'S  \\\)\DHRKA\I)S. 


tlu-  ci)Il(.i;o  of  vernal  Iiyiniis,  ami  tlu'  ])aliii(.'tt(is  arc  \ocal  with  tlit.'  softly  stirriii;^  l)rci./.i\  Tin-  landscapi'  is  a  diiMiiiy  lia/.e  of  iiicoiii parable 
loveliiRs>,  wluti'  a  fiast  of  llouirs  is  ]Kr]Htually  spvcail,  aiul  tlu-  voice  of  ]Kiis  may  l)c  luanl  down  nndcr  llic  j;riin  waters  of  a  innniuirini; 
sea.     OnK  .i  thin  stretch  of  I'l'likn  l>e.uh  lies  liiiueen  the  mainland,  on  which  ( tnnond  is  located,  and  the  ocean,  so  near  that  the  billows 


are  di>tinctlv  heard   beatini;   ai;aiti-t   the  ^lion-. 
make  an\-  imii;e>-ioii,  am 


this  water-fiiint  of  lajjoi 


id  sea  are  j^leaininj;  sands  so  hard  that  step  nor  wheel 


so  in\  itiu^  th.it  i',\  niplis  mi^ht  make  it  a  pIa\t;ronnd.     West  of  the  villaj;e  is  a  t\pical   hnmmock  t)f  tropical 
iths,  ]Hiietrated  by  a  };lade  that   is  enilioweied  ami  sweitly  shaded   bv  massive  oaks  j^racefnliy  festooned  with   pt'arl-j;ray  mosses,  and 


palmettos  that  tlannt  their  tangled,  nistli 


randies  bilore 


the  bi 


Ilereabont,  too,  are  j;ro\es  rich-laden  with  fruits  as  •joldet 


a-   ih.'se  that  w 
IKrcules  in  the 


.ked   b 
(.1    lle- 


1" 


th: 


id 


the  banana  bend  beneath  the 
Weight  of  their  own  delici.Mis- 
iie^--,  aral  pour  out  tln-ir  h' mr  \- 
to  the  bees  in  licli  e\tra\  ,iL;am'e. 
At  (  >ii;..iiid  bcMl  was  taken 
for  a  trip  down  Indian  River, 
a  jonrnev  which  all  the  spu  cli 
of  adiectiseand  ima.uerv  cannot 
jnstly  descrilie.  Indian  l\i\er 
and  Halifax  Ki\er  ax-  noi 
streams,  but  shallow  la:;oi.n^, 
strips  of  tile  ocean  i  iicjn^icl  1i\ 
narrow  toni^ues  of  s.niily  luacli, 
se\ered  bv  occa'-ional  inkts 
throu;,'h  which  the  billows  bn  ak 
tumuhuou-!)  .  Its  e\trtnie 
leilnlh,  forthetwoare  now  joined 
b\-  a  canal,  is  aliout  two  Iiundied 
miles,  and  thou,i;h  rarily  more 
th.in  thiee  feet  deep,  and  in 
[dacess  less,  the  la.i;oi.n  i^  n.i\i- 
j^ated  by  a  line  of  stern-wheel 
bo.its,  which,  in  winter-time, 
are  crowded  with  cNcursionists, 


IN    nil     liini'    l'\l.\\l:Tro   Sdl  lil'DhS    AI.OMi    INDIAN    klVlR. 


notwithstanding' their  sleepini;  accinimodations  ate  ciMifmed  almost  eiitirelv  to  cots  in  the  cabins.  One  line  runs  to 'ritnsville,  and  there 
connects  with  auotlur,  which  c.iniis  ]).issen,i;ers  as  far  south  as  Jupiter,  the  .southern  limit  of  the  river.  In  tlu'  List  \e.ir  (  IMHil)  a  r.iilroad 
has  been  buiU  fi<'m  Titusville  to  Rockledye,  and  is  beiu).'-  l>nshed  southw.ird,  so  that  in  another  year  or  two  the  trip  to  Jn]iiter  ma\'  be  maile 
by  rail,  lint  thi' boat  journey,  thouj;h  beset  bv  some  h.irassments,  conse(|Ui  iit  njion  n.irrow  ])assaj;es  and  low  w.itir,  will  lo-.e  little  of  its 
l>opuI,irity,  because  it  will  always  rem.iin  one  of  the  most  tklioliifnl  that  can  betaken.  The  connection  between  Halifax  and  Indian  Rivers 
is  by  means  of  a  canal  that  reipiires  constant  dredj^in;;,  and  thiiiut;li  wliicli  it  is  dilTieiilt  to  pass  with  boat  when  the  wind  is  blowing;  hard; 


KUl   Kl  l.lJdl;,   ON    INDIAN    KIVhK,    II.OKIhA. 


iimnwp<jwm'n'>'"j'.wwp  l 


1.  ,i     i 


:  .f, 


'I  I.   Ill' 

.ill. 

I:,    t 

lit 


4r^> 

wliili-  ,il  uiiU'N  it  i-i  Ml  flioki-il 
willi  >.iiiil  th.it  the  liiMts  Ii.uo 
to  111'  litir.illy  (lr.ii;;^i-il  thionoh 
tiy  iiii-.in^i'l  li.iuMi"  ami  c.i]i-~i.iii. 
Nfw  Sm\  ni.i  !■<  a  ti'W  ii  of  smm" 
iiii]>oi"l,iiui.',  .IS  is  'ritu~\  ilk',  liut 
l>csi(lis  tlu>t\  tlio  l.iiuliii.i;s  arc 
of  no  coii-njiu'iK'i."  as  tiMilin^;- 
placi-s,  coiisistiiiiL;  of  iu\ir  uihil' 
than  one  or  two  stores  and  as 
many  lioiises.  Tliis  siiar>eness 
of  ])oinilalioii  increases  the  in- 
terest of  travelers  on  the  river, 
for  the  eharni  of  ])rinie\al 
lieants-  and  attractiveness  thus 
remains. 

As  a  rnlc  the  hanks  arc 
covered  with  s|>iney-])ahnetto, 
which  is  almost  as  dillicnlt  to 
eradicate  as  Canada  thistle,  anil 
hcMco  few  atteni])ts  are  made  t^i 
reclaim  the  land,  as  the  cost  of 
eleariii^;  exceeds  the  \alne.  lint 
at  occasional  inler\  als  the  hanks 
arc  diversified  with  orange 
•proves,  and  ha'.ianas  are  also 
raised  to  some  extent,  Imt  the 
chief  indusMv  is  li>hin;;,  1. T  the 
river  ahonnds  with  shee]>head, 
poinpano,  mullet,  ca\alli,  and 
i^reen  turtle-.  Kock]edL;e  is  a 
resort  of  .i;Hat  poind. irit\,  hut 
of  no  commercial  impnrt.mce, 
for  it  dois  not  contain  a  sin;.;le 
store.  l'"iii  l>e.nit\  ,  Imwever,  it 
is  almii-t  nnrix.dled,  beinj^ 
ricjdy  adorned,  by  nature  and 
lavishly  beanlilied  hy  the  arts 
of  man.  The  lari^e  c.diha;;e 
ji.dniettos  th.it   !;V'iA'  \\\i  wildly 


A-MKRICAS  WUNDKRLAXDS. 


irr 


f- 


jft'      '•  is^^--'*  J*"' "-' .^■■ 

■■•■*■  W'         <• 


si'oitim;  koc.k,  ni:ak  .iiimthr. 


M 


<)KAN(.K   (il«)Vi;   AT    KOC.KI  KI)(iH,   INDIAN    Hl\  I  R.   lii)KII)\. 


_/; 


rrT  I 


472 


AMHRICA'S  \\C)N"I)i;kl,.\\I)S. 


I  ■ 

'I  > 


1 1.1 

.    Ill' 


li-   -l[| 


aloiii;  its  co<|iiin;i  b.mks  wiro  sitldud  to  nni.iiii,  ami  Inlwiin  tlniii  .imiiiks  wiii'  l.iiii  nut  and  cmircd  with  sliclls,  so  tliat  from  the  river 
lluri.'  is  a  lo\ily  prosjuct  of  ^^Icaiiiiiii,'  walks  raiiiiiv  Iiiil;  a  sl'ore  of  luilliaiit  j^riiii.  Ilt-ic  al>o  the  <)iaiij;i-  j^miws  in  its  most  <lilii-ious  luTfit-tioti, 
likewise  the  kiuoii,  banana,  and  i;iape  fruit;  and  sueh  a  lilee/e  of  perfume  j^reets  the  incomin^j  passeUj^iT  as  ])aradise  itself  luij^Iit  exhale. 

The  riser  at  Kinkled:-;e  i>  nearly  six  miles  wide  and  furnishes  the  limst  sea  for  sailinj;,  for  the  salt-air  is  prisent,  and  the  d-m^ers  of 
heavy  billows  are  aliMUt.  Across  this  expanse  lies  a  broad  strip  of  land  whieh  is  dixided  by  another  layoou  called  lianana  Ri\er,  aloiif; 
w  hich  is  a  eharminji  vista  of  wood  that  has  been  named  by  some  admirer  b"air\land.  This  strip  of  fonst-irrowth  is  beautiful  enou^jh  to 
justify  the  name,  and  wandering;  tliroiij;li  ijroves  of  oranges,  i)alins,  magnolias  and  paw-paws,  on  shell-walks  of  snowy  whiteness  fancy 
pictures  a  troop  of  (b\  ads  ]iie- 
nieiny;  aiuonjj;  the  trees,  and 
drinkiui;  neelar  front  il.imin.i; 
begonia  llowers  that  sprinkle 
the  woods  with  searlel.  At 
the  lower  end  of  l"air\  kind 
is  a  11  itur.d  p. irk  in  which 
j^narled  oaks  spread  tin  iv.yiaiit 
shadowsoveralawnof  t;rasses, 
a]id  on  the  niar.Ljin  is.ii^r.  .\eof 
])ine-.ipples,  the  fr,i;,;r.ince  of 
which  almost  stitles  the  odor 
frcini  the  oran<;e-blossonis.  A 
siu.;,;le  cottai;e  is  the  oidy 
habitation  in  this  poetic  re- 
treat, before  the  d'"ir<'f  which 
are  lofty  paw-paws  wasin^ 
their  feathery  crests,  and  a 
yi^antic  rubber,  or  b.msaii 
trie,  whose  br, inches  woo  the 
soil  and  have  taken  root 
therein.  Onlv  c me  other  s[)eci- 
men  of  this  retn.irkable  tree, 
of  e(|nal  si/e,  is  found  in  the 
I'nited  vStates,  and  it.  '.■.•.  is 
a  native  of  Morida,  beiu''  one 


i 

II 

" 

is. 

■L.'ji 

' 

m^ 

1 '■-"•« 

i 

.1 

—      -  -            ;              ■ 

l.AK!:  OKHECIIOBKH,   1  lOI'lUA. 


of  the  chief  curiosities  of  Key  West.  There  are  other  s])ecies  that  exhibit  a  <lis])osition  to  fix  the  points  of  their  droopinjj  brandies  in  tlie 
Ljround,  but  it  is  )iecull.ir  to  the  ban  \  an  to  send  out  shoots  front  its  in.iin  stems,  which,  instead  of  jjrowinjj  upward,  point  straight  down,  and 
even  before  leachiii;,'  the  ijrouud  the  ends  put  out  root-tendrils,  which  strike  into  the  soil  and  firmly  attacli  theinsehes  as  soon  as  thcv  reach 
the  earth.  .\s  the  boat  proceeds  southward  from  Kockled^e  the  way  f;r"wsin  interest,  for  we  .soon  reaih  what  may  be  called  "the  rej,non  of 
water-fowls."  Ducks,  coots,  water-hens,  absolutely  cover  the  river's  surface,  while  pelicans  increase  in  number  until  we  reach  Pelican 
Island,  where  they  sw.irm  b\-  thousamls.  The  risin.ij  of  water-fowl  liefore  the  boat  is  a  wondrous  sij^ht,  and  the  beatinjj  of  their  winjjs  on 
the  water  produces  a  sound  like  a  he. ivy  fall  of  hail  on  a  dry  clap-board  roof;  there  are  positively  millions,  and  the  commotion  wliich  they 


s   fancy 


A  PINE-APPI.K  CROVH  ON  INDIAN  PIVliK.  IIOKIln. 


474 


AMIvRlCA'S  \\()\I)I:RI,.\\I)S. 


'    n 


I 


Mil 


ruMte  is  almost  ivindiinoniiiin.  AimtliiT  riitiark.iMi-  sis;'u  wliii'li  wi-  witiiisMcl  was  a  sv  liool  i>(  por|)oisis  tliat  liad  stia\tii  iiitn  tlio  lai^iniii 
(  inr  tlR'\  all'  iic'l  ic'iiiiiiiiiK  Inmul  tluu-  i  wliiili,  luin);  liii;liuinil  li\  tlii.'  Imat,  iii.tilc  a  itlnat  ai'inss  [hv  iImt  in  siu-li  |)riL'ii)ilatii)ii  that  the 
shallow  '     tir  was  lualm  inti)  loam,  Icasiiij;  a  sliiak  ui  wliiU'  Ik  liiiui  tluiii  thai  markid  tluir  coiiisf  simio  timi'  aflir. 

T  ^liaiactiT  i>l  tin-  slidic  vii;italiiin  al-n  I'liaiiijiil,  tlio  siiiiR\ -])alimlti)  ^iviiiji  \A.\vv  U'  manj^nivis  tliat  j^row  so  thickly  a  man 
iiii>;ht  aliini>t  walk  mi  tliiii  ti>])s.  In  tlusc  iki'p  fnivsts  wild  j;aiiie  is  aUuiid.iiit,  iiuludiiii;  dcir,  liiar,  paiilluis  and  'coons;  and  on  our  ioniiuy 
we  saw  a  'coon  tliat  had  so  little  fear  it  scarcely  moved  even  wlun  the  hoat  lii'islied  the  limh  \ipoii  which  it  sat.  When  iiit;ht  falls  upon 
these  solemnlv  soinher  deep  woods  a  sense  ')f  dieail  steals  on  the  traveler,  tlioiii;li   he  he  in  a  ^a\'  crowd  on  a  j;ood  steaiulH)at.     The  river 

narrows    lor    iie.iih'    ten    miKs   . v-rr;-^  •"••vv  A^^^^^        ~«k      '&  '■< 

thron^h  the  manyiovi.- thickets,        ^  '  .^  ■.'^..  ^2^^5jW".  ^1  V^'5*f--»^  ^ 

and  dnriii)^  this  interval  the 
h.iiiks  are  wiiliin  reach  fiom 
both  sides.  The  ]i,i-^,ii;e  is 
tortiions,  too,  and  the  ho.it  re- 
(juires  slow  and  c.irclul  liaml- 
linj;,  freqiieiilK'  the  how  strikiiiL; 
one  h.iiik  and  the  stern  the 
other,  while  the  electric  hiill's- 
cye  li^lit  ]Hiietrates  and  tl.ishes 
like  a  Druid's  lire  d.uice  in  the 
tan;.;led  cop>c  where  man\-  sliiiiv 
and  nncaiiny  thiiiL;s  ha\e  their 
haunts.  An  alli.ualor's  xr'iiit, 
a  lion's  cr\  ,  a  froj.;'s  hoarse 
croak,  and  a  suake-hird's  pipinjj 
are  some  of  the  sounds  tll.it  an- 
imate the  solituiles,  and  cr.u  k- 
injj  hr.mches  hetray  the  ])tox- 
imity  of  .some  wild  he.ist  whose 
eyes  are  like  1. interns  in  the 
darkness. 

.\Uer  hours  of  patient  w.prk- 
'".U>  Jni)iter  Narrows  are  ]),issed 
and  the  boat  spi;--/;li  on,  her 
iron  hull  oiten  ^liiidin.^r  „„  n,,  A  '-VNU'  ,  ir  r.oNsi^«PTlvl-s.  ncau  i.vki-:  woKiii.  i  kh'II.a. 

oyster-l)ed>,  ami  loiijjf  w.i\es  hreakinjj  over  the  sh.dlows.  Ivleii  is  tlieii  reached,  aii<l  the  odor  of  the  pine-apiile  is  percejitihlc  in  the  air.  .\ 
Stop  is  made  to  allow  ]).issenj;ers  to  jjo  on  shore  and  visit  the  pine-apple  throve  iiear-hy,  where  th.it  excellent  fruit  is  ciilti\ated  sncce.ssfnlly 
by  a  J,'entlem.in  who  first  lost  a  forliine  in  the  experiment.  A  mile  below  IMeii  St.  Lncie  Sound  and  Ri\er  extend  se\eral  miles  inland 
tow.irds  I, .ike  (  >keicholiee,  twenty-five  miles  dist.int.  It  is  proposed  to  connect  the  lake  with  this  ri\er  by  me. ins  of  a  can.il,  and  thus  drain 
the  sw.imps  and  ever;.;l.ides  of  Southern  b'lorida.  Another  shorter  canal  on  the  west  would  connect  the  lake  with  Ciloosahat  Kiver,  and 
thus  two  outlets  Would  be  alforded,  which  would  speedily  accoin|)lish  the  piir|X)se  of  the  company  that  has  undertaken  the  enterprise. 


4r(' 


AMI'IKICA'S  WUNDl'IRI.ANDS. 


%■    If 

'1 
111,  ill 

ill.''"' 


T\viMt\ -I'lM-  uiiks  IkIow  Mdcii  is  Juiiitcr,  tlii"  s<uitliirii  ti-riiiiiiation  of  Iiuli.m  Ki\rr,  ;i  litlii'  tinvn  that  diTivis  its  iiii]H>itaiu-c  from  the 
Govcninu  III  lii^ht-hmisi' which  st.uids  In  Imi.'  the  iiikt  to  w.iiii  vi»i  Is  nil  tlit.'  (i.iiij^vinus  nifs  outsidf.  Thi'  siirroimdiiiKS,  hnwi'vi-r,  aii' 
\i.Ty  diiij^htliil,  I'siHi-i.dly  the  ln'.ich,  wliii-h  is  stuwii  with  the  pnitii'st  oci'aii-slulls  that  I'vtT  a  ])iMisi\i'  lursoii  ^ratlun-d,  iiicliidiiij;  an 
occ  isioiial  j)iarl\  iiaiitiiiis,  a  pt'ifei-t  one  of  which  we  had  the  jjhikI  fiirliine  to  find,  Ncar-l>y  is  tiie  Sixintin),'  Ruck,  a  cci<|iiina  fdiniatioii  that 
rises  into  a  hank  and  which  has  been  hollnwed  at  tlie  l)ase  l>v  incessant  dashing  of  the  billows.  Into  this  j^rotto  the  waves  jjliin^'e  with  such 
force  that  they  drive  out  throii;;!!  an  <i|Hiiiiij;  in  the  top  of  tlie  rock  like  n  colossal  fcMinl.iin,  and  are  scattend  by  the  winds  into  a  shower  of 
rainbows.  .\  n.iirow-);.niv;e  railro.id  runs  .sonth  from  Jupiter,  a,  dist.mce  of  eij^ht  miles,  tu  Juno,  its  terminus  on  l^ake  Worth,  where  tourists 
take  a  sUam  l.iuiich  lor  I'.ilin 
Heach  and  are  tlun  in  the  land 
of  the  cocoanut.  'I'lie  voiie  of 
elo(|ueuce  jjrows  co.irse  wlkii  it 
attenijits  to  ]i.nut  llie  bi.iuliis 
of  this  o'er  lair  suiiiUKr-l.iiid; 
a  l.ind  where  warm  /e]ili\  rs  stir 
the  li.i/y  air  with  bre.ith  of  ]itr- 
pctii.d  bloom,  and  seiiMioiis 
perlumes  l.in  the  clucks  of  laii- 
j^tiorous  d,i\ .  In  this  Arcidiau 
sjiot  of  bciuty,  wlute  the  air  i^ 
ji.issioaate  as  a  lo\er,  wooing 
and  ki»iuj,'  the  flowers,  to'.siiii; 
and  einliracin;.^  the  fronds  oi 
tile  coco;i-lMi  N,  tluie  is  a  joy 
like  relro>pectioir,  .i  couimuiiioii 
with  the  r.iplurous  .soul  of 
nature;  a  commin^liu;;  with  the 
creatures  of  our  sweetest  fancy; 
a  b.ilmy,  delicious  .sense  of  j;r.ili- 
ficatiou  tli.it  lulls  and  etlieri.il- 
i/es;  that  bridges  the  ;{iilf 
bitweeu  the  red  aii<l  the  ideal; 
that  builds  siibst.mti.d  c.istlcs  in 
clouds  of  ).;(dd,  and  m.ikescM  r\  - 
tliiiii;   a   sl,i\e    t        lur    desires. 

The  banks  are  ]>  ■  ares  of  beauty,  the  jjardeiis  ;ire  beds  of  pereuui.il  deli;.4ht.  I,.ike  Worth  is  sejiarated  Iroui  the  ocean  bv  a  strip  of  laud 
le.'S  than  h.df  a  mile  widi,  and  this  n.iiiow  toiii^ue  of  what  w.is  once  b.ire  sand  li.is  been  converted  into  a  stritch  of  tropical  cMiberailce. 
I'nr  .1  distance  of  four  miles  tlu  re  is  an  unbroken  i.;Iade  of  cocoamit-trees,  while  nearer  to  the  sea-shore  are  banana  j.;roves,  and  trees  beiidinjj 
to  the  j;roiiiid  with  guaxas,  sapodillas,  oranges,  lemons  and  other  tropical  fruits.  M  inter\als  there  are  gardens  fiill-be.iring  in  I'Vbniary 
with  beans,  peas,  tom.itoes,  and  aloiiir  the  walks  are  tlower-beds  th.it  flniie  with  color  and  lade  the  atmosphere  with  nature's  inceuse.  To 
walk  through  such  a  grove  of  fruitful  delight  is  to  (ill  the  heart  with  ecsla.sy. 


rUH  fINH-dX  ^IIAY   IN   ll.nklDA. 


VVIMKR  IN  II.OKIhX 


1 


j|ify  ilfc' 


'M,:i 


lift 


O 


3 


ft'    I 


•ill 

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■  r 


i.    Ill' 
,|i|i. 


n-iil> 


ilfl.'' 
''  l'i!l 


47'^ 


AMI'RIC.VS  WXJXDlvRLAXDS. 


Till' air  III  this  soulhcni  n-.i^idu  is  not  onlv  laiii;iiciiiius  but,  in  tlif  ]>iiK\'  <li>tiit-ts  |'.iitiiMilarly,  is  balsamic,  and  Ik'IICc  tlioiisaiuls  nl 
coiisuiiiiiti\is  141)  to  l'"ii)iiil.\  lor  nlii  t  wliii'li  lln.\-  cainiiit  liiul  ilsiw  lu  n-.  Tlii.-  I'^iii^Iaiks  arc  iiotvlial  tlu-x- wire  loniKily  j)iitiutil  to  bi- 
before  cxploralioii  nAialed  that  iii>l(.a(l  of  iiii|Kiii!rablc  swaiiijis  tlR\  are  sections  of  very  tliickly  timbered  lands,  whose  only  drawbaeU 
are  S]iine\ -palnuttos,  wliich  render  travel  thronj;!!  them  very  laborious.  lint  at  several  ])1  ices  I  saw  jiarties  of  coirsumptiees  eneaniiuil 
not  far  from  Indian  Riser,  and  also  in  the  vicinity  of  Lake  Wo; ih,  w  lu  re  tliev  s]ient  their  time  in  hnntin;,'  and  fishing',  anil  clainted  ijreat 
benell!  .  fioni  the  exercise  as  well  as  front  the  re--torati\  es  containid  in  the  aii. 

Ketnruini^  frcqii  our  tri]!  down  hulian  Ki\er,  we  left  t!ie  steamboat  at  Titns\ille  and  look  train  lor  luileri)rise,  at  which  point  we 
embarked  mi  boat  lor  a  run  down 
the  J^t.  John's  Ri\er  as  far  as 
I'alatka.  'I'he  jouniiy  was  \ery 
dilletent  from  t'aat  on  Iniiiau 
River,  \et  the  seii-ation  I'i  ]ile,i-n:e 
was  not  wantiii.i;,  for  the  stream, 
thonyli  the  I.irijesl  in  I-"lorida,  i^, 
llexerlhele^s,  chaiaclii'-'lic,  sIul;- 
gish,  ratlier  shallow  anil  mar^iueil 
with  a  thick  .iirowth  of  timbir  and 
bru^h-\\"o(l.  The  lauilin;^^.  while 
more  iin]Mrtant  than  tho^u  on 
Iinlian  River,  are  i^ruerally  small 
villaj;es  whose  ]irinciii,il  jiopuia- 
tion  are  ne,;;roes.  The  industries 
in  l-'lorida  are  not  \ariiil  as  in 
other  .Si.ites,  but  cou>i-'t  inaiuls  of 
fruit  Jjfe'winsj;,  tlshinjj  and  jdio-- 
pluite  di;^.:;iiij,'.  M.inul.iclurinj^ 
there  is  none,  practically,  and  the 
people  deri\e  tliiir  lar.L;est  revenue 
from  tourists,  who  pay  as  much 
for  oranges,  cocoanuts  and  piue- 
a|iples  at  the  l)laces  where  they 
are  jimwii  as  is  charijed  for  the 
fruit  in  our  Northern  cities.  Vi  t 
there  are  si:.M.s  of  rapid  growth  in  ^•■'^^'^  "^   ""■  "^^1  ^^^'^''^   '"Vl  K.   I'ORII.A. 

I'lorida,   and   the  State  has  a  brii;ht   future,    for  it    is    .settling   up  at   a   in.irvelous    ]>.ice,    and   with    an    excellent    class   of    immiirrants. 

.\bout  r.ilatka  are  m.in\-  \erv  t'lne  or.inL;e  <;ro\ts,  and  the  cilv  is  in  a  tlonrishiujj;  condition,  largely  thronj.;h  the  biisimss  of  fruit 
growini;.  In  writin:j;  of  the, Si.  John's  Ri\er  Mr.  I''.ilu.ml  Kinjj;  says,  with  truth  well  told:  "The  l)anks  are  low  and  flat,  but  bordered 
witli  a  wealth  of  foii.i^u  to  be  seen  nowhere  else  upon  this  continent.  One  pas>es  for  hundreds  of  miles  thn)ii;;ll  a  fjraild  forest  of  cyjiresses 
robed  ill  moss  and  mistletoe;  of  p.ilnis  towering;  j;r.icefnllv  far  above  the  surniundini.;  trees;  of  ])alinettos  whose  rich  trunks  j;Ieam  in  the 
sun;  of  swamp,  white  and  black  ash,  of  m.ignolia,  water-oak,  poplar  and  pi. me  trees;   and  where  tlie  hiiiuniocks  rise  a  few  feet  above  the 


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AN  OKANCt;  GkOVh   NKAK    I'Al.AlKA,   ll.OHIDA. 


4So 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDI'-.RL.WDS. 


p  '  :|t| 
ill. 

I> 


w.itcr  level,  the  s\vcct-l>ay,  tlic  olive,  cotton-tree,  jimi|HT,  red-cedar,  s\veet-,i;iiin,  ami  Ii\e-o.ik  shoot  up  their  s|ileiidid  stilus;  while  ainoiijj; 

the  shruMicrv  and  iiilevior  yiowths  one  may  note  tlie  a/alea    the  sumach,  scn--ilivc  ]i!ant,  aj^aw,  ])op]i\-,  mallow,  and  the  nettle.      The  fii\ 

^lape  elainlurs  aloui;  the  |ivanc!K>,  ,nul  the  wondliine  ,uid   liij^nonia  escalade  the  han;;htiest  I'orest  nioiiarch,      WIuii  the  stianicr  ncars  the 

sluiii  ,  one  can  sec  far  tlivm^li  the  tani^lcd  thickets  the  j^lc.iniin^  water,  out  of  wliicll   rise  thous.uids  of  c\  press  kncc^,   Inokini;  exactly   like 

so  !nan\  cl'.ampai;ne  liottlcs  set  into  the  current  to  cnol.      The  heron  aud  tile  crane  saucilv  watch  the  slia(h)W  wiiicli   tlic  aiiiMo^'.ehinji;  i)oat 

tiirows  near  their  re'reat.     The  w.ir>  imui^tcr-tiirtle  j;a/es  for  an  instant,  with   his  black  liead  cocked  kiiowiiij;ly  on  one  side,  then  disap- 

liears   with    a    ,'eutle    >lidc    and    splash.     .\n    allii;,itor    ^riiis 

f.unili.nlv  as  ,i  i,  i/eii   levoKcis    are    poiiitid  .it   hiui  o\er  the 

bo.it's  side,  sulleiilv    \\;;;ks  with   his  tail,  aud   wmishes,  as  the 

i)ullets  me.iiit   lor    liis   loui.;li    hide   skim    harmlessly   over   the 

ripples  kit  above  him.      I'or  its  wliole  length  tile  river  affords 

j;linip>es  ol  ]>eriect  be.iiUv  .      It  is  not  j;raudeur  which  one  liiids 

on  the  b.iuksof  the  ijre.il  stream;  it  is  nature  run  riot.     The  wry 

irrei,'nl.irit\   is  delightinl,  tile  decay   is  charming;,  the  solitude 

is  pictuie^i|ne." 

1  m.iy  ,idd  to  .Mr.  Kind's  description  the  re^retal>le  fact 
tli.it  the  .miiu.ue  scenes  wliieli  lie  ])ictured  are  no  louder  to  be 
wilue-seil  on  the  .St.  Joliifs  Riser.  The  persecution  of  allii^a- 
tois  by  tr.ixclers  on  the  steamers  has  resulted  in  tlie  jiracticai 
extermination  of  those  curious  creatures  in  that  stream.  'I'hey 
.ire  now  prolectc<l  by  a  St. lie  law,  I)nt  it  e.iiue  too  late;  where 
allii^ators  were  pleulilul  live  years  a.y;o  they  arc  now  a  curiosity, 
th'iu^h  in  some  parts  of  I"lorid,i,  where  travel  is  not  iieavy, 
their  number  is  imt  \it  diuiinished,  but  e\er\  \car  they  are 
beciimiiii;  scarcer,  ,ind  in  .i  little  while  liie\  will  no  dnutit  be 
extinct.  X^l  only  are  alli.u;ators  ])ersecuted  fur  the  mere  sport 
of  killini;,  but  thous.iiids  are  .muu. illy  ilestroyed  by  ])',ifessioual 
hunters  lor  their  hides,  w  liieli  in.ike  an  excellent  Katiier.  The 
taxidermist  also  fniils  his  bn>iiKss  iucie.ised  by  the  sale  of 
stnlfed  specimens  tu  vi^ifirs  .iwni  the  .North,  while  !;icat  nnm- 
bers  of  the  \  I'un^  are  e.nii^ht  and  sold  to  the  lovers  of  curious 
thin;.;-  for  pi  t^,  all  of  which  contri!)Ule  to  their  r.ipid  diminu- 
tiou,  and  their  tot.il  extinction  is  therefore  a  matter  of  only  a 
short  while. 


EXCUI^SION   I MNCJI   ON   TlIK    UVS.   IIOKIDA. 


i'.il.itk.i  is  a  |iretty  town  of  ;(,.'iiM)  inhaliitauts,  and  situated  in  tlic  iieart  of  the  or.inj^e  belt,  liesides  its  piclnrcsfiue  siir- 
roundini^s  and  imiiort.ince  as  a  shippinij  point,  it  is  iie.illiifnllv  locrited  on  lii.nh  jjrouud  and  in  tlic  iiiiilst  of  a  jiiiiey  rc<.,'ioii  iiolcd  for  the 
l)lan(iiiess  of  its  clilll.ite.  Morida  lias  bi .  n  tr.iuslonued  within  tiie  past  \irv  few  years  bv  tile  I'lant  railways  from  a  st.ite  of  coiiip.irativeiy 
sandy  desolation,  without  ro.ids  thionyh  its  dense  j;rowtlis,  into  ;i  coiiutrv  of  jjreat  advaiita^;es  and  thrifliness.  I'ruit  tries  li.ive  supplanted 
the  coverts  of  pahiulto,  , and  there  is  health  and  pmspiriiv  .ilioundiu^  everv  vv  Iiv  .  'I'lie  "  h'lorid.i  Cricker,"  .is  her  l.inijuid,  iiackvvoods, 
one-j;.ilIu.'  tv  pe  n|  >lciveiilv  ,  slow  hum.mity  is  c.illed,  li.is  not  yet  wlndlv- ilis.ippeared,   but  the  tr.iiisitiou   to   more  indiislrioiis  and  cultured 


A   PALMEl  TO  GLAUE   NEAR   I'AI.ATKA,   ILOKIUA. 

31 


482 


AM '•■.RICA'S  \V().\Di:k  LANDS. 


nJl 


I, 
I  I. 


citizen.sliiii  is  jLjoini;  dii,  ,iiu!  il  is  i\iitii.-Ml.iil\  m|i|i.iuiiI  .iIuhu  I'.ilalk.i.  TIk-  dld-liiiu'  i-oii\i'\  aiici.' of  :ui  ii\  in  . shafts  liiu-lud  In  a  cart  nf 
uncertain  aj^c  is  nm  (juilt-  nii-nKti-,  Imi  it  snr\i\ts  uiou'  a^  a  n  lie-  tluin  as  a  t!iiM<;  of  i-\ii\-(l.iy  sirvicT;  and  ]k-o|>1i"  wlin  visit  I'Mmida  on 
a  winti-r  trip,  in'opU-  in  tine  limii  wlui  arc  able  to  fare  snnipliiiaisK  ,  arc  nmrc  j^iscn  to  nsinj;  llic  o\-cart,  tli.ui  arc  tlic  permanent  inli.di- 
itants.  In  tiic  nimnitain  districts  of  Coinr.ido  toinists  lidc  Inirros;  in  I'lorid.i  tlicc  affect  a  preference  for  tile  harnessed  o\.  Il  is  the 
influence  of  loc.dity  tli.U  divcrsilR--  cn>toni.  Another  c>iriosit\  in  l-'iiirid.i,  [iccnli.ir  alike  to  Cnha  and  the  tropics  ucncrallv  ,  is  tile  palineUo 
hut,  an  nnsnli^ini'.ial  strnctmc  r— 
roofed  and  "weather-hoarded" 
with  painietto  Kmvcs,  Imt  w  hicli 
(nrnishcs  protection  from  the 
snn  anil  r.iin.  These  lints  arc 
\i.snally  l)iiilt  to  ser\c  as  tempo- 
rary abodes  for  iiranj;e-pickcis, 
and  arc  therefore  iisually  within 
or  near  the  s^roxes.  Thron;;!!- 
otit  I'Morida  it  is  the  cnstoin  to 
.sell  thcoran;^ccidpon  the  trees, 
the  |)nrcliasers  heint,'  fruit 
dealers  from  the  North.  These 
dealers  employ  trainc<l  pickers, 
who  work  thron;^liont  the  sci- 
.soii,  j;oinj^  fiom  one  j;rove  to 
another,  until  the  "^athcriny;  is 
completed;  usnalh  tluy  ]>ro. 
vide  their  (jwn  sujiplics,  like- 
wise their  shelter,  and  tlie 
palmetto  lint  serves  thciu  both 
well  and  ecoiioiiiic.dK'.  When 
the  fleas  become  so  thick  as  to 
crowd  the  occnp. lilts,  they  burn 
the  hut  and  build  another.  It 
is  the  cheapest  wa\  \  el  discov- 
ered of  ijettiiiL;  rid  of  ihcsi.'  elu- 
sive ]iests. 

M  I'alalka  we  took  bo.it 
for  an  excursion  up  the  « tckl.i- 
walia  River  to  ,Sil\i  r  Sjirinu;  and  •  K.il.i,  the  he.id  of  nav  i.i.;.ition  on  that  stream.  Of  our  many  tri|)s  in  the  ICasl,  West  and  vSonlh,  this 
proved  to  be  the  nio^t  uni(|iie,  the  most  wmuUrfnl,  the  most  scnsatioiially  pictiircs(|nc.  Ocklawaha  River  is  at  once  a  laj;ooii,  a  narrow 
lake,  ami  ,i  swamp,  but  at  no  pi, ice  does  it  hive  the  appcar,ince  of  a  tlovvin^j  stre.un,  for  the  current  is  scarcely  perceptible.  The  shore-line 
i.S  indic.Ued  by  a  jirofnse  f^iowth  of  watcr-vcj^et.itioii  and  cv  press  knees,  while  at  places  the  river  is  .so  narrow  that  lofty  trees  interlace  their 
branches  above  the  low  smoke-stack  of  ihe  boat.     .\iid  what  a  boall     It  is  well  adapted  to  the  trade,  and  to  that  end  is  unlike  any  other 


SILVHR  SPR[N(i    AM)  OCKI.AVVAHA   STKAMBOAT. 


.-.^'^^' 


''::-^\ 


"i^H  *<';*''■''?' 


S-    ^'/- 


HOME   OF   THE   OUAN(iE-PICKERS   IN    1  l.OKIUA. 


■tN 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDKRLAXDS. 


P  '  It 


sttaimr  tli.it  i'\ir  sat  in  tlio  water,  a  tliiiij;  of  iiulisciilialile  sliaiH-,  an  ol>jict  nf  snr])rise  ami  cnriosity.     On  this  qiiciT  craft  fifty  people  may 

liilf  ill  conUoit  (liii illy;  till'  (la\ , while  aUiiitioii  is  atliai-ud  hy  llii'  allif^atms,  iiaiu's,  limns  and  snaku-liirds  alunj;  tho  shun-,  hut  the  ni};ht  iiinst 

lie  spent  in  vain  riiMits  and  fit^htiny;  inuMjiiilois.     Ni)  i-Ikiikl'  U>  );et  loiusiniu'  tui  this  tri[i;  there  is  tco  ninch  to  see  in  day-time  and  too  much 

lo  du  at  ni.i;ht.     Hut  it  is  a  nii\elt\ ,  an  evperieiu-e,  a  sensation  worth  more  than  the  discomforts  that  must  be  cn<lnred.     AIomjj  tile  Ocklawaha 

alligators  are  slill  pleiuilul,  liecaiisc  shooiinj;  is  not  allowed   from  the  boat,  and  there  is  no  other  way  to  approach  them  within  jjnn-shot 

iliNtaiice.     The  lazy  moii-iers  may  he  seen  sunning  their  corrnj4Mted  hacks  on  nearly  every  loj;,  and  in  their  company  hiij^c  water-snakes  are 

often  lotiiid,  associated  with  l)i>;  and  little  siiappinj;-turtles,  the  three  species  formiii);  a  congenial  hut  most  repnlsi\e  family  of  reptilian 

cozeiiship.       The    w.iter    luiiisj; 

lia'l'-sta.ynanl  is    Mack    with    a 

ve>4etal)le   dissolntion,   aiul    yel 

so  transparent  that  the  hottoni 

may  at  times  In-  seen.      lint   if 

llie    creatures    that    li.i    ■:.i     the 

ri\erare  offeiisiw,  t'r.'  slight  is 

Compensated     hv     the     wonder 

which    thev   excite;    while    the 

dense    woods    th.it    m,irj;iii   the 

shore    are    reson.int     with     the 

carol  of  hinls  and  jewelled  with 

their  brilliant  ])liiiii.iye. 

The  tri|)  is  reinarkablv  in- 
teresting', bnl  the  greatest 
cli.irm  that  att.iclu'S  to  the 
>treani  is  found  when  the  boat 
reaches  .Silver  .Spring,  the  most 
exciuisitc  pool  that  was  e\er 
ripi)led  by  d  i  ])  of  o.ir  or 
skimmed  by  lap-wing.  Tradi- 
tion tells  us  that  this  is  the 
m.irvelous  rejiivenating  spring 
of  which  police  de  Keou  heard 
fabulous  tales  wliieh  lured  him 
to  the  dark  interior  of  Indian- 
infested    I'loriila.      If    his    e\es 

ever  gazed  into  its  crystalline  deptns  surely  lie  must  have  believed  that  his  quest  for  the  magic  fountain  had  been  rewarded.  That'  arness 
of  the  water  mav  be  likened  to  the  air  itself,  for  at  its  greatest  depth  of  eighty  feet  objects  on  the  bottom  may  be  clearly  and  distinctly  .seen, 
likewise  the  fissure  through  which  the  water  pciirs  ii])  like  a  veritable  fonutain.  A  peculiarity  of  the  spring  is  the  prismatic  colors  which 
arc  reflected  from  any  white  or  shiin-  oliject  thrown  into  it.  To  test  this  curious  fact  I  cast  in  a  piece  of  broken  crockery  and  watched  with 
keenest  interest  the  fragment  as  it  sank  in  a  zigz.ig  motion  to  the  bottom.  Xo  rainbow  was  ever  so  brilliant  as  the  colors  which  flashed 
u])  from  this  piece  of  saucer,  nor  did  ever  jewel  gleam  with  more  scintillaiit  beauty. 


SCENE  ON  THE  SI'WANNEE  PIVER. 


4  86 


.\MI:RICA'S  WOXnKRT.AXDS. 


il'lL 


lialU'd  tlurc  a  (i.i\-  to  ii.i>-  to  it 
the  trilmle  <pf  a  nspict  aroi-.siMl 
in  every  Aiiuritaii  Iiiart  by 
Foster's  iiui\iinl'iil  pasturale, 
"The  Old  I'olks  at  IIc.iiK." 
Who  has  not  hiard  "  Way  ddWii 
upon  thu  SnuaiiiRo  Ri\(.r"? 
and  who  ln.arin;j;  thf  soiitj  has 
not  tried  to  iiicUire  tlio  desolate 
plantation  and  the  dreary  heart 
that  went  up  and  down  the 
solitudes  of  the  deserted  cotton- 
field  si<;hiuj,'  tor  the  old  tuassa  and  missus,  who  will  never  call  for  Tonipey  ajjain?  In  a  small  hoat  we  rowed  down  the  river,  which  was 
as  still  as  death,  and  almost  as  motionless.  The  faint  sound  of  a  saw-mill  at  Hllaville  was  the  only  tiling  that  K^'^e  reminder  of  our 
proximity  to  eivili/.aliou,  and  when  at  length  even  this  link  was  broken  by  distance,  it  seemed  as  il  all  creation  had  ^oue  into  monrninK. 
The  spell,  while  mournful,  was  yet  dreamily  charming,  and  instinctively,  under  the  influence  of  such  lonesome  isolation,  we  sanfj  with  the 
fullness  of  ai)preeiation,  "The  Old  l'"olks  at  Home."  Never  before  had  soujj  such  sweetness,  never  had  one  so  much  of  sadness,  to  me; 
and  wdien  the  la^t  note  died  away  there  was  a  feeliut,'  of  opjiressiou  in  the  silence  that  en.sued.     The  old  sou;,'  brought  up  visions  to  which 


A  BAPTIZING    IN    THK  SUWANNHE  RIVEI*. 


AMIvRICA'S  \V()XDI:R LANDS. 


487 


■>\ 


\vc  wtTc  tliiiisid:  a  fallow-falil  wlurc  inui'  was  binintx  ;  a  larj^e  white  iiiaiisiiiii  willl  its  Imiy;  jxircli  falliil  in  (k'cay;  a  lilay;n(ilia-luc  willi  a 
inockin^j-l)ir(rs  (lusirtcd  ir/st  riaily  to  fall  from  its  di'ad  Idaiicliis;  two  nra\i'-st<)iu's,  (,'rt.iii  with  moss,  in  tlio  pashiif,  and  an  old  darki-y 
bowi'd  ill  prayer.  Tlit-  Siiwaimcc  lias  its  .soiirci-  in  ( )kifi'noki'c  Swamps,  (ii.or|,Ma,  and  after  runniiijf  its  course  (jf  ne.irh  tlitee  hundred  miles, 
emi)ties  into  the  Onlf  of  Mexico,  jnst  above  Cedar  Key.  .\t  some  plaees  the  ri\er  has  eoii-.i(leral)le  wiclth,  Imt  ne\er  snllieient  (le|ilh  to  pernn't 
of  na\ij;alion  hy  any  ei.ift  of  eonsideralde  si/e.  Its  hanks  are  oceasioiially  hij,'h,  as  at  I'lll  iville,  hut  generally  they  are  llat  anil  ovcrhnnj^ 
hy  oaks  thiekly  festoonvd  with  moss.  The  current  is  sln^'i^ish  and  the  water  seldom  clear,  carrjinj,'  as  it  does  a  thiek  \e),'etal)le  solution. 
The  strci'.m  is  neither  beautiful  nor  romantic,  save  as  it  ac(inires  the  repnlalioii  for  heing  both  ihrouj^h  the  son;^'  that  has  m.ide  it  as  famous 

as  (iur  lar^'ist  risers. 

The  country  about  Ivlla- 
ville  is  fairly  well  seltU'<l, 
ihonnh  the  place  itself  hardly 
rai'ksas  a  hamlet.  We  arrived 
on  ;>atnrday,  and  as  no  trains 
run  on  .Sunday  we  were  coni- 
pelle(,  to  rem.iiu  o\er,  and  at- 
tended church  in  the  forenoon 
and  witnessed  a  bapti/in>;  later 
in  the  day.  The  adniinistra- 
liou  of  the  ceremony  ])ro\ed  to 
be  a  <,'reat  event  in  the  nn- 
rufTled  lives  of  the  people,  and 
many  came  louj;  distances  to 
witness  the  immersion  of  four 
candidates,  three  wt)men  and  a 
man.  The  si^hl  of  a  ba]itizin}j, 
while  common  enout,'h,  po.s- 
.sessed  for  us  unusual  interest 
because  the  place  was  Suwan- 
nee River,  and  havinj;  the  con- 
sent of  the  officiatinj;  minister, 
we  took  a  photoj^raph  of  the 
crowd  on  shore,  a  hea\y  cloud 
overcasting  the  sun  immedi- 
ately  after,    so  that   a   picture 

could  not  be  made  of  the  baptizinj;.  l-'roni  Kllaville  our  journey  was  continued  westward  thronjjh  Tallalia.s.see  and  on  to  Mobile,  where 
a  short  stop  was  nuule,  and  thence  to  Xcw  Orleans.  Mobile  is  not  only  one  of  the  oldest  towns  in  the  South,  but  is  amonfj  the  earliest 
settlements  in  America,  the  exact  date  of  its  founding  being  in  dispute.  The  jilace  is  known  to  have  been  the  original  seat  of  the  I'-reueh 
colonization  in  the  Southwest  as  early  as  1702,  but  its  growth  was  .so  slow  that  the  Colonial  (iovernnient  was  transferred  to  New  Orleans  in 
172i{,  and  willl  the  change,  the  little  imjiorLince  which  it  had  acipiired  became  lost,  nor  was  it  again  recovered  until  the  place  became  a 
rendezvous  for  corsairs  under  the  infamous  Lafilte,  from  IHIO  to  li^l."".    Its  greatest  jirosperity,  however,  dates  since  the  civil  war,  though  some 


A  SECTION  OV   BIENVILLE   PARK,   MOBILE,   ALABAMA. 


.tss 


AMIiklCA'S  \\()NI)I:K LANDS. 


U.    r 


I 
III', 


■I'll 


\  i-.iis  |iuiiiliiin  lli.it  ttoiilildiis  ])t'ri(iil  Moliili-  li.nl  luidiiii'  ,i  i-nnsiiUT.iliU-  |)ciii,  Iut  iliiif  >lii|iiiunts  In-itij;  ri)ttoii,  coal,  IuiiiIkt  and  naval  stores. 
'1"1k'  iiiti.uut'  li>  Moliilo  li.iy  is  i-iiinin.iiiiliil  |i\  I'mis  Moiy.in  aiul  Ci.iiiiis,  wliiili  au'  tliiily  iiiilis  IhIow  tlu'  lilv  ,  ami  mi  tlir  ».i>l  siili- 
111  Tiiisas  Ki\ir  ,iu-  tlu-  iiiiiis  of  Spanisli  I'uit  ami  Vinl  |il,ikil\  ,  all  ol  wliiili  |>la\(il  .111  iiiiportiiit  \'.nl  in  tlu'  diU  iim'  nf  llii'  city  wliiii  it 
was  attaikid  1>\'  Ailiiiiral  I'.iu.iljiiI,  in  Auyii-t,  1m1I.  (  Mic  ni  ilu'  w-l  ili^|ni.itc  li.ittli-.  tli.it  w.is  fdii'^lit  <liiitn).j  tlif  w.ir  timk  pl.icc  in  tlu- 
Ii.iilidi,  wluii  l'',in,iv;ut  I. in  tlif  him  k.iili'  uitli  a  siiii.iilion  of  tin  luiwcrlnl  iiicn-ol-u.ii  lir.iiktl  liy  his  t1.i(,'shi]>,  the  //;///,'/(/,  ami  unconntcrcd 
the    ConlKlir.itf    lint    iii^iik'.      One   of  tli 


r 


I'nion  ships  r.in  uiUo  ,1  tiirpcMlo  and  w.is 
inst.mtly  hlown  into  fr.tjijniiMits,  hnt  the  other 
vessels  nut  with  little  nppci^iiinn  until  at  the 
nioinent  uluii  l'.in.i,!.;ut  tlinuj^Iit  the  b.ittle 
won,  he  s.iw  with  siiipii->e  the  d.iik  Imdy  of 
.1  -traiiye  \e— -el  lUiii'^  the  CoiiUdei.ite  ll.ij.; 
.111(1  l>i,i!iii>;  down  ii]'nii  him  .it  i^ie.it  speed, 
i\iiUiul\  iiiliiit  iipi'ii  r.iininiii);  and  sinkinjj 
his  .ship,  'rile  /An//.'/,/,  Iiy  a  ])ieee  of  y.Mid 
Iiiek  and  skillnl  ll.indliiii;,  iii.in.ij;ed  to  .ixoid 
the  iiiteiKKd  lilo'.v,  and  then  followed  all 
ellj^'ajjellK  nt  til.. I  ll.i>  lew  p.il.illc-ls  in  liiu'i- 
ness.  The  .str.iir^e  ^iin-hoat  ])io\i'd  to  be 
the  Tiii/ii^M I  ,  one  of  the  most  iioweiliil  and 
<lestriKtive  that  the  C'oiifedei.ite  Cioveiiiiiu  lit 
h.id  sent  into  sei\iee.  The  I'liion  iidn-el.ids 
closed  around  tliiir  M.u'k  .md  teirilile  aiitaK- 
imist  and  h.itteiid  lu  r  with  their  he.i\  y  jucpws 
of  steel  until  the  iinecpi.d  eontest  w.is  ended 
liy  her  sniieiider.  l-orts  ( iaines  and  Mor^^ill 
were  aUo  c.iptiired,  hnt  Sp.iiiisli  l"ort  and 
I'ort  I!lakel\- .still  deleiideil  llu'eitv,  wliieli  re- 
sisted all  efforts  at  its  lediK'tioii  niitil  .\pril  l:i, 
I'^ti.'i,  three  d.ivs  alter  the  surrender  of  I.,ee. 
Mohile  h.is  j^rowii  j^reatly  since  the  war, 
and  now  has  a  ])opi;lation  of  nearly  ;i.'i,n(i(l. 
It  is  situated  on  a  sandy  jilain  tli.it  rises  into 
lii;,'h  and  verv  j,M',ieefiil  hills.  Xutwithsland- 
injj  the  h.irreil  shore  as  nature  made  it,  the 
arts  of  ni.m  have  supplied  the  delkicncy  of 
soil  and  made  of  the  streets  howers  of  lovely  shade,  .so  ciiarniiii);  that  mneli  of  the  city's  fame  is  due  to  the  nohle  trees  that  arch  all  its 
streets.  Uieinille  Park  is  one  of  the  prettiest  spots  in  soiitherii  lands,  noted  far  and  near  alike  for  its  massive  live-oaks,  magnificent 
magnolias,  and  handsome  lountain,  a  place  swathed  in  delicious  airs  and  In.xnrions  with  the  richest  and  most  heantiful  vegetation. 

Westward  fnjin  Mobile  the  ronte  was  by  the  I.onisville  and  Nashville  Railroad  along  the  (Inlf  border  of  Mississippi,  through  some  of 


AVEMH  or  TOMRS  IN  WASIIINC.ION  C.I-..\U-.TKRY,   NEW  ORLEANS. 


1             ■■■  -  -. - 

^        ., 

m 

^y^T\ 

• 

1 

f     I'll 
1  llUi     1  t  1 

1      1         1      1 

WW 

^ 

'   •■     ;i|i 

-      .    .t 

1 

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>      ■" 

• 

A   PLANTATION   HOME   IN   MISSISSIPPI. 


490 


AMERICA'S  WOXDHRI.AXDS. 


III.  im 

;i'i, 

I 

■"".nil 

I  in' Iff 


the  lovlicst  intervales  tliat  vision  mer  wandered  over.  Tlie  air  is  warm  witluuit  deliililatiiii;  .snitrine.ss,  for  tlic  Ciulf  of  Mexico  tempers  tlie 
alniosphere  willi  refresliini,' humidity,  and  a  eonst.mt  liree/e  shakes  the  ])erl'unie  out  of  llnwevin;^  sinuh  and  tiee.  M.my  lie.iutifui  phices 
are  liassed  on  the  inn  of  <ine  Imndieil  ami  forty  miks  from  Mnliile  to   N\  \v  Orleans,  some  of  wliieli  au-  more  or  less  noted  as  winter  resorts, 


s     '.  as  CK-e.in  Springs,  liiloxi,  lieauvoir,  I'.iss  Christi.m,  and   li.iy  St.  I, 


lie.mvoir  h.is  a  place  in   history  as  heinjj;  the  residence  of 


Jefferson  Da\is  for  several  years  after  the  w.ir,  and  where  he  died.  The  w.iy  is  beautified  also  by  many  jialatial  lunnes  and  well-cultivated 
plantations  that  attest  the  thrift  and  prosperity  of  farmers  of  the  New  .South. 

iK'wein  I'.iss  Christian  and  l!.iy  St.  Louis  the  road  crosses  an  inlet  of  St.  I.ouis  Hay  on  a  steel  trestle,  and  a  few  miles  further  west 
passes  o\er  IV.ui  Riwr  and  enters  I,ouisi.m.i.  'I'lie  l.iiid  is  level,  and  cut  up  hy  iunnmer.ilile  h.ivous,  and  after  crossin<j;  the  narrow  outlet 
of  I. .ike  I'ontchartrain,  c.illcd  I'ii^olet's,  the  ro.id  runs  alon^^  a  tongue  of  sc.i  ni.irsh  for  a  few  miles,  then  pluii;.;is  into  a  dism.d  sw;imp,  where 
the  al!ij;.it<n"s  bellow  ;md  the  connor,uit"s  cry  are  the  only  sounds  that  disturb  its  stillness,  sa\e  when  a  train  j;c>es  i^rowliuy:  by.  "The  .sea 
marsh  is  dotlccl  wiih  iu.,iiy  Likes,  wIric  ,i;rieii  vej;et.il>le  i.ifts  of  lotns  le.ives  and  lily  jiods  turn  slowly  with  the  tide  or  float  lazily  about, 
blown  by  the  breath  of  a  s.ilt  bree/e  sweepinj;  in  from  the  ("lulf.  I'.ut  in  the  j^hostly  };ioom  of  the  swamp,  the  forest  trees  are  like  an 
assemblav,'e  of  monstrosities,  ,L;rcat  ^n.irled  trunks  and  knotted  .inns  'if  moss-draped  oaks,  ilntchinj;  at  the  f.iu-shaped  fnnids  of  p.ilmettos, 
while  the  mixture  of  crooked  bodies  and  twisted  leaf-stems  of  the  l.itouia  appear  as  if  they  were  the  bodies  and  initst .'etched  arms  of  horned 
goblins  apjie.iliuij;  for  release." 

\c\v  (Irkans  is  a  virv  old  citv,  settled  by  the  I'reiieh  in  ITb'^.  Like  other  settlements  of  these  earlv  times,  it  has  passed  through 
many  evil  vici>-itudes  and  been  in  turn  a  possession  of  Immiicc,  Spain,  and  the  I'nited  States.  A  sinful. ir  tliinj^  in  connection  with  the 
city  is  the  f.iet  that  it  is  built  upon  ,i;idund  that  is  considerably  lower  than  the  surface  of  the  Mississippi  duiinij;  hii;li  water,  and  that  it  has 
nomoresnIislaMti.il  fouiui.uioii  than  an  allnvinm  deposit  which  has  been  K"'"U  "!•  f"f  centuries,  constantly  extending;  into  the  Ciiilf,  the 
point  of  outlet  of  the  Mississippi,  To  ])revviit  overllowint;,  the  city  is  protected  bv  a  d>  kc  or  'v'ee,  which  is  fifteen  feet  wide  and  fourteen 
feet  hi.i;h.  This  eartli-w.ill  follows  the  river's  crescent  wiudinj;  a  distance  of  ten  miles,  wh.le  arother  extends  across  the  rear  to  protect  the 
city  from  Lake  I'ontchartniin.  To  stenre  a  linn  found. iti..n  for  some  of  the  l.iri;e  buildiu;.;s,  cotton-baKs  li.ive  been  used  on  which  to  build, 
as  piliuj^  is  of  no  service.  lint  that  this  cli.iracter  of  basis  is  no  disadvantaj^e  is  pro\eii  by  the  f.ict  that  New  ( )rleans  is  noted  for  its  mammoth 
edifices,  public,  church  and  coninierci.il,  wliicli  yixe  no  si;^u  of  insecurity.  The  place  is  essentially  cosmopolitan,  for  in  no  other  city  i.s  the 
popnlatimi  more  mixed,  iiearlv  every  street  beiu.y;  occupied  by  a  different  nationality.  Commercially  it  is  next  to  New  York  as  an  export 
city,  and  easily  holds  the  honor  of  the  K.idini;  cotton  jiort  of  the  country,  from  which  one-fourth  of  the  worhl's  supply  is  floated.  .She  is  like- 
wise a  city  of  many  cli. inns  and  K'e.it  historic  interest.  Within  the  city  ]iroper  occurred  a  terrible  scene  followinjj  the  rebellion  of  17l!;t^ 
when  I'"raiice  ceded  the  ]il,ice  to  Sp.iin,  while  at  its  southern  outskirts  is  the  battle-field  on  which  Jackson  won  his  j^lorious  victory  over  the 
liritish  under  I'.ickenham,  Jaiiii.ir\  .'^,  l"<l.'p.  The  city  jiassed  tlirou.y;li  another  storm  of  shot  and  .shell  in  l.'^f'c',  when  l''arrajjnt  compelled 
its  ca])ilul.ition  after  a  terrible  bombardment.  Hut  these  scars  ha\e  loiij^  siiu  c  healed,  and  New  ( )rleans,  desiiite  pla<;nes  and  wars,  has  held 
her  position  as  Oueeii  City  of  the  South  and  one  of  the  ),'reit  metropoli  of  America,  with  a  ])oi)nlation  now  of  l'."i(),(10(1,  which  is  rapidly 
increasing;.  \\  iiile  New  Orleans  is  famous  for  the  romance  with  which  her  history  is  invested,  for  Iter  immense  importance  as  an  export 
city,  and  also  for  the  beauty  of  her  ]).irks  and  magnificence  of  her  ]>rivate  residences,  the  curiosity  of  stranijers  is  no  les.s  attracted  by  her 
cemeteries,  which  are  unlike  th'se  of  any  others  in  the  world.  In  e.irlier  times  it  was  the  custom  thereto  bury  the  dead  in  shallow  graves, 
but  this  ])iaetiee  was  finally  ab.indoned  for  the  more  s.icred  aii<l  sanitary  one  of  enclosing  the  bodies  in  tondis  above  the  ground,  and  then 
hermetically  se.iliug  up  the  mortuary  cell.  This  bec.iine  a  necessity  because  of  the  nature  of  the  soil,  where  water  is  reacln  d  at  a  depth 
of  two  feet  below  the  surface.  Some  of  these  tombs  are  mausoleums  made  of  stone  or  iron  and  of  beautiful  architectural  designs,  but  the 
more  common  form  of  disposition  of  tiie  dead  is  in  a  wall  jjierced  by  cells  large  enough  to  contain  a  coflin,  one  above  the  other,  to  a  height 
of  se\en  or  ei^ht  fut.  There  are  thirt> -three  such  cemetiries  in  New  Orleans,  in  one  of  which  ((ireenwood)  is  a  monument  to  the 
Confederate  dead;  and   in  another,  the  N.ilioual,  at  Chalinette,  the  I'nion  dead  are  siinilarl\-  honored. 


FAIRY   CJROrrO,   MAMMOTH   CAVE. 


49- 


AMKRICA'S  WOXDlvRLAXDS. 


U 


'I 


llaviii<j;  coinpk'tcil  our  work  in  Xcw  ( >rl(.',ins,  and  a  tonr  of  the  .Sontlii'ast,  or  at  Kast  that  portion  which  is  noted  for  its  semi-tropical 
characteristics  and  great  pictures(|UCMe>s,  we  took  train  on  tlic  I,onis\ille  and  Nasliville  Railroad  for  Maiinno'.li  Cave,  to  make  an  inspection 
and  phoioi;raphic  tonr  of  tliat  world-woiiilerfnl  iiatnral  cnriosit)-.  To  reach  the  Cave  onr  route  was  northeast  thronj;li  Hirminghatn, 
Xashvilie,  and  thence  to  ( "dasi^ow  Jnnction,  at  wliich  point  connection  is  made  with  a  little  .spur  of  the  I.onisville  and  Xashville  Road,  which 
niii-s  directly  to  the  Ca\e,  a  distance  of  tucKe  miles  from  the  Junction.  Maniniolh  Cave  is  in  the  eastern  ]iart  of  Mihnoiulson  county, 
Kentucky,  eijjhly-lr.e  mill  s  south  of  I,ouis\  iile,  and  its  i  lUrauce  is  in  a  forest  ravine  nearly  two  hundred  feet  aliove  ('■reen  River,  where 
the  banks  are  \ cry  steeji  and  hij^h.  It  is  said  to  ha\  e  I'ceu  disco\  eml  in  IMH'  by  a  hunter  named  Ilutchius,  while  pursniuy;  a  wounded 
bear  that  had  taken  refui;e  in  a  wiile  crevice  that  led  directly  into  a  broad  clunnber  of  the  Ca\e.  The  histor\'  of  this  disco\ery  is  not 
snlUcienlly  ilelinite  to  cuaMe  us  to  know  which  one  of  the  two  points  of  entrance  was  thus  accident, illy  found.  The  present  oiieniujj  irscd 
is  in  the  ravine  mentioned,  but  the  oriijin.d  mouth  is  belie\cd  to  ha\e  been  the  aperture  that  is  nearly  a  (piarter  of  a  mile  above,  and  leads 
into  what  is  kiu)wn  as  l)i\ou's  Cue,  a  disconnected  brau"U  of  .Mammoth  C.ivern. 

Lur.iy  C.i\erns  are  liijhted  by  eleetricil)  ,  so  that  i>holo<.;r.iphin,L;  its  nianv  chambers  and  beautiful  stalactitic  formations  is  easily 
acconiplishcd;  but  thou,:;li  .Mannnoth  Cave  is  the  l,iri;est  and  best  known  of  the  world's  >;reat  subterranean  recesses,  and  visited  by  about 
(1,11110  ptrscius  .inuu.dly,  no  iiro\isi,iu  has  bciii  ni.ulc  f<ir  linluini;.  bc\oud  the  crude  nicthod  of  j;\iides  who  carry  torches  and  car'''  ~  To 
])hoto<;raph  its  d.irk  rivers,  avenues,  courii;nrations,  and  strange  sculpturings  mauv  at;  uipts  have  Iv-n  in  ide  by  the  aid  of  nKignesium 
lights,  but  without  satisfactory  re.  nits  initil  Mr.  Hen.  llains,  of  New  .VHianv,  Indi.in.i,  m.ule  special  and  most  careful  preparations  to  do 
the  wink  which  h.id  so  often  f.iilcd  in  the  h.iuds  of  others.  ,Se\iral  weeks  were  spent  in  the  c.ive  testing  the  powerful  artificial  lights 
which  he  h.iil  provided,  aucl  by  dint  ol  jieisiA  ur.iucc  he  w.is  .it  l.ist  rewarded  by  the  most  perfect  results.  To  this  enterprising  gentleman 
we  are  indebted  for  the  Usi-  (pf  the  photogr.iphs  iroui  whicii  our  reproductions  are  made. 

.Manmioih  Cave  tirst  c.nne  into  notice  anil  import.inee  about  the  \e.ir  1>>!-',  when  it  was  discovered  that  the  cave  contained  \asl  beds 
of  niter,  sulhcieiU,  as  w,is  st,ited  at  the  tiuii',  to  supplv  the  whole  ]>o|>idatiou  of  the  globe  with  s,dtpeter,  dratz  and  Williams  were  the 
owiu  Is,  .i;id  esl,iblished  a  \i  ry  large  industry  in  colKcliug  the  nitrons  earth  bv  means  of  o  -cirts  and  shipping  it  to  Philadelphia,  where  it 
was  \i.sed  in  ni.uuil,Ktnriug  the  gun-powder  th,it  enabled  \is  Iv  triumph  over  I'!ngl,iud  a  seccuil  time.  The  region  is  essentially  cavernous, 
as  Professor  .Sh.iU  r  eslim.iles  th.it  in  this  cirbouiferons  limestone  district  of  Kentuckv  "tnere  ,.re  at  least  10(1, ()()()  niiles  of  open  caverns," 
but  very  few  of  the  fwc  hundred  e.i\es  and  grottoes  of  Ivlniondson  countv  cont.iin  nitrous  earth.  ( >n  the  other  hand,  there  lia\e  been  very 
few  evi<leuces  of  ]irehistoric  occup.nicy  discovered  in  .M.nnnioth  Ca\e,  while  in  Salt  C,ivt  ,  its  neighbor,  and  almost  a  rival  in  si/.e,  arcluco- 
logic  rem,iins,  such  as  lire-pl.ices,  burnt  to;clies,  s.ind,ds,  aiul  moccasin-prints  are  numerous;  and  in  Short  Ca\e,  also  ne,ir-by,  the  mummi- 
fied bodies  of  sevetal  sm,dl  aniuKLls  and  .i  few  hmn.in  reni,iius  have  been  found.  White  Cave  is  li.ilf  a  mile  from  the  Mammoth  C,i\e  entrance, 
and  the  two  may  be  connected,  though  the  counnnnication  h.is  not  been  <liscovere<l.  Hut  there  is  a  decided  difference  in  the  formations  that 
cluir.icteri/e  the  two.  White  Ca\e  is  in  some  respects  similar  to  I.nray  Caverns  in  its  e.\<inisitely  charming  variety  of  stalactites.  In  the 
first  ch.imber,  "  Little  li.it  Rocmi,"  as  it  is  called,  we  find  m.mv  lovelv  creatimis  and  a  few  objects  of  great  interest  to  |)aleontologists.  'i 
the  second  room  is  a  piece  of  st,d,ictitic  dr,ipery,  which  has  been  verv  appropriatelv  called  the  "  I'rozen  Cascade,"  "  Humboldt's  Pillar  ' 
and  "  Bishop's  Dome"  are  other  wonderful  examples  of  the  effects  of  slowly  ])ercolating  water  bearing  lime  in  .solution.  In  thiss.ime  c.ivi  , 
some  seventy  ye.iis  ago,  were  found  huge  fossil  bones,  of  the  mcgalony.x,  or  giant  sloth,  bear,  bi.son,  and  stag,  and  scattered  among  these 
animal  remains  were  a  few  human  bones, 

Ihit  while  the  adjacent  caves  each  possess  an  interest  peculiar  to  tliem.selves,  Mammoth  Cave  must  continue  to  remain  the  most 
remarkable  civeru  in  our  conntrv ,  not  t)nly  for  its  size,  but  likewi.se  for  the  marvels  whicli  e.\|)loiation  of  its  labyrinthine  avcinies  has 
revealed.  To  Professor  H.  C.  Ilovey's  admiiable  and  siieutific  description  of  the  Cave  I  acknowledge  my  indebtedness  for  a.  larger  part  of 
the  information  here  imparted,  from  whii  h,  also,  liberal  e.\lracts  are  made,  though  without  quotation  credit. 

The  eutr.ince  to  .M.imnioth  Cive  is  arched  by  a  rock-span  of  ,seventy  feet,  thence  leading  by  an  easy  descent  down  a  winding  flight 


oil)   SIONK    HOUSH.    MAMMDIH   CAVL. 


,l'' 

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lir 

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III. 

Ill, 

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i» 

494 


AMHRICA'S  WOXDKRL.WDS. 


of  stone  steps  to  a  luirrow  passaj^e  tliroiii^h  wliieli  the  aii  rushes  outward  with  threat  foree  in  summer  and  is  drawn  inward  with  corresponding 
violence  dnrinij  the  winter,  a  phenomenon  (hie  to  the  ine(|nality  of  temperature  l)etween  the  air  inside  an<l  out  of  th.c  Cave,  for  the  tem|)era- 
tnre  of  the  Cave  is  nnil'ornily  af  I'ah'-enheit  at  all  times.  The  atmosiihere  luintj  thus  constantly  ajjitated,  is  kept  constantly  pure,  for 
while  the  lower  le\els  are  moi>t,  lieiui;  no  douht  eonneelcd  with  Cireen  River,  the  upper  avenues  and  galleries  are  always  dry;  conditions 
which  were  one  time  thought  to  lif*  particularly  fax'ora.hle  to  eousuniptives,  as  well  as  to  those  snfferiufj  from  other  wastini;  diseases.  The 
exiierinient  was  therefore  ni.ule,  some  forty  years  iv^a,  of  huildiusj;  thirteen  stone  houses  at  a  point  one  mile  within  the  Cave,  in  which  a 
number  of  iiu.ilids  look  up  tluir  domicile  and  li\e<l  there  in  (Kep  siclusion  until  it  w.is  demonstrated  that  whatever  niij;ht  be  the  salubrity 
of  the  atmosjihere,  cousjimptiws  derived  no  l)(.ntfit  from  it,  a  mnnber  dyiufi^  in  llie  C.i\e.  Relies  of  two  of  the.se  .stone  huts  still  remain, 
but  they  exist  ni>w  only  as  curiosities,  no  one  li.niuj,'  spent  a  nii;ht  in  one  of  tluin  formally  years. 

Tile  niaiu  cue  is  from  10  to  ;>oi)  fitt  wide  and  from  -i''  to  1-''  feet  hij;li,  divided  into  a  j;reat  mimber  of  rooms  and  winding  avenues, 
the  extent  of  which  has  not  yet  been  determined,  for  exploration  of  the  Cave  is  far  from  beiuj;  enmplete.  Some  of  the  best  known  rooms 
are,  first,  the  Roliiiula,  in  which  are  ruins  of  the  old  s.illpeter  works,  and  where  the  skeletons  of  two  men  were  found  several  years  a^jo. 
Heyond  this  is  the  St  ir  Chamber,  where  the  protrusimi  of  white  crystals  tlirou);h  a  enatiujr  of  lilack  oxide  of  iiiaiis;anese  creates  an  optical 
illusion  of  ^re.it  beauty,  .\uother  dc]iartnient  is  c.illcd  the  Chief  Cilv,  a  chamber  of  nearly  two  acres  space,  with  a  vaulted  roof  1  :.'.">  feet 
hi<;li.  The  tloor  is  be>trcvvn  with  rocks,  amony;  which  have  been /ound  charred  torches  of  cone,  and  a  few  other  evidences  of  prehistoric 
occupancy.  There  are  also  sliovvn  some  nnimmitieil  bodies,  preseved  by  their  iiihumation  in  nitrous  earth,  utensils,  ornaments,  braided 
sandals,  and  other  relics,  but  all  of  these  were  found  in  .S.ilt  and  Short  Caves,  near-by,  and  removed  to  Mammoth  Cave  for  exhibition.  The 
main  cave  ends  four  miles  fnun  the  entrance,  but  is  joined  to  other  spaeicms  eh.imbers  by  windinji;  ])assaj.;es  leadinj;  to  different  levels,  .so 
that  while  the  cavern  area  is  peril, ips  le>s  th.iu  ten  miles,  the  total  lenj^th  of  the  avenues  is  sup])osed  to  be  lall  miles. 

The  chief  ])laecs  of  interest  are  fuund  aloiiij  two  m.iin  lines  of  the  ex|)lored  ]iortions,  from  which  side  excursions  ma\  be  made. 
The  "short  route"  maybe  covered  in  about  fniir  hours,  but  it  requires  nine  hours  to  traverse  what  is  known  as  the  "  long  route." 
Audubon  .Vveiine  is  the  liist  leadw.iy,  interesting  fur  the  sw.irnis  of  b.its  that  li.iiig  in  huge  clusters  from  the  ceiling,  but  it  is  not  until 
Gothic  .Vveiiue  is  re.iched  that  stalactites  and  stalagmites  are  met  with.  This  passage  le.ids  into  the  Chajiel,  at  the  end  of  which  is  a  beauti- 
ful double  dome  and  cascade;  ihence  we  ]>ass  into  the  Throne-Room,  with  its  roval  formations  of  surprising  siileiidors,  which  comi)el  Visitors 
to  stop,  and  elicits  exclamalioiis  of  wonder  and  a<lmiration.  Tlie  Uridai  .\ltar  is  almost  etpudly  grand,  with  its  frosted  pillars  of  pearl-white, 
and  the  convoluti'iiis  of  their  magiiilicent  peilinienls  tli.il  may  be  likened  to  clouds  in  the  sky  of  cave.  Indeed,  these  vertical  shafts  or 
petrified  columns  are  among  the  must  surprising  fe.itnns  of  c.ive  scen<ry.  They  are  not  confined  to  the  liridal  Altar,  however,  for  they 
pierce  through  all  levels,  fioin  the  uppermost  g.illeries  to  the  lowest  floors,  and  even  find  lodgment  in  the  sink-holes. 

A  lilock  of  stnne  tli.it  is  forty  fei t  hmg  by  twenty  feet  wide  is  called  the  Cii.nit's  Coffin,  and  when  viewed  from  a  certain  angle  the 
resemblance  to  a  funeral  casket  is  so  gre.it  that  even  if  attention  were  not  called  to  it,  visitors  would  hardly  fail  to  be  a  little  shocked  by 
the  sight.  There  is  a  narrow  )i  iss,i..^e-vv.iy  around  the  coniii, which  followed  leads  to  a  large  vault  called  (lorin's  Dome,  in  which  there  are 
si.\  ])its  varving  in  depth  fMiu  '■•"i  to  --"  feet:  tnilv ,  awful  ])its  to  fall  into.  Xotwithstanding  the  treacherous  character  of  the  floor,  (lorin's 
Dome  is  one  <if  tlie  fiuist  chambers  in  the  Cave,  fur  it  is  eh.inningly  festooned  and  ])illared  with  stalactitic  formations.  Mammoth  Dome, 
which  is  at  the  terniinatiuu  of  .Sp.irks  .\venue,  is  pinb.dily  more  interesting,  because  besides  h.iving  its  walls  draped  with  a  marvelous 
tajiestrv ,  the  great  wonder  of  the  room  is  immensely  increased  and  heanlified  by  a  cataract,  which  falls  from  a  height  of  -*aO  feet  and  fills 
the  apartment  with  its  music.d  splasliings.  The  Mgyjitian  Temple,  which  is  a  continn.ition  of  the  Mammoth  Dome,  contains  si.\-  massive 
columns,  two  of  which  are  quite  perfect  iiud  eiglitv  feet  high  by  twenty-five  feet  in  diameter.  Lucy's  Dome,  which  is  three  hundred  feet 
high,  is  the  loftiest  of  these  monster  shafts,  the  i<puil  of  which  cannot  be  found  in  any  known  cave  in  the  world. 

The  M.ielstrom,  in  Crogliau's  Hall,  is  one  of  the  deepest  and  most  awful-apjiearing  pits  yet  discovered,  and  until  IH.'iO  no  one  had 
ever  ventured  to  exjilore  its  dark  recesses.      It  is  at  a  remote  jjoiiit  in  the  Cave  and  .seldom  visited,  becau.se  the  way  is  beset  with  obstacles. 


i^iiKTamviiMmiiaaimiiiamamummtmmmmmm 


(JIAMS  COFI  IN,   MAMMOTH   C:AVb,   KHML'CKV. 


496 


AMICRICA'S  WOXDKRI.AXDS. 


'  I'lii 


i:i 


vliilc  tlrO  si|L;ht  is  luitluT  ivassniiiii;  imr  OMillH'iisatiiiv.  A  son  of  ('n.'(ir^c  I),  rivtiticc,  liowrvfr,  braxi-d  tin'  <l:iii,t;i'rs  of  tlu-  ])it  bv  ]K-nnittiiijj 
sdinc  ol  liis  Iriiiuls  to  lowi  r  him  I'.'H  ful  by  a  wyv  to  llio  lioUimi,  l)iit  liis  iNiHiiiiice  \\:is  of  little  value,  Ueiausi'  lie  fimiul  imtliiiij;  of 
iutivcst  to  nwaiil  liini  lor  tlic  tioiilile.  .SoiiU'  ])rett\-  slalaititos  an-  near  tliis  ])it,  and  also  in  I-'airy  Cirotto,  lint  in  the  deeper  reeesses  there 
is  a  reniarkal>le  absenee  i<i  llu>e  lornialions.  Indied,  eonsiderinj;  the  charaeter  and  extent  of  Maniniotli  Ca\e,  its  |)o\ertv  of  stalactitic 
ornamentation  is  .snrprisini;.  On  the  other  hand,  it  eontains  an  iinexanil>led  wealth  of  er\stals  of  endless  variet\-  and  ineoniparable  beantv. 
He.sides  the  .siiarklin,y;  vault  of  the  Star  Chamber,  wliieh  is  'MtO  feet  lonj;  ami  MO  feet  hii;h,  there  are  halls  eanopied  by  lleeee  clouds,  or 
studded  l)v  mimic  snow-balls,  and  others  <lis])la\  inj;  v.irious  j;rotes(|ue  resemblances  on  the  walls  and  ceilings.  Cleveland's  Cabinet,  and 
Marion's  Avenue,  each  a  mile  lonj;,  are  adorned  b\-  myriads  of  j^ypsnm  rosettes  and  curiously  twisted  crystals  called  "onlopliolites."  These 
ca\e-ni>wers  are  unfolded  b\  jiressure,  like  a  ^heaf  of  wheat  forced  tlirouyh  a  tii;ht  bindiui;.  This  eharmin^r  embelli:;hment  of  clusters  and 
j;arlands  is  freiiueutlv  seen  eurlini;  outw,\rd,  like  rost  •^,  comi>o>in,i;  petrified  boti(|uets  that  cover  the  snowy  arches. 

This  eurions  feature  is  even  more  markid  by  the  stalactites  in  Mary's  \'ineyard,  where  they  appear  in  the  form  of  an  aj;.i;re.y;ation  of 
spherical  ])rominences,  roembliny;  clusters  of  i^rapes.  I  >tlier  chambers  are  drifted  with  snowy  crystals  of  sulphate  of  ma;juesia,  and  the 
ceilinys  are  so  thickly  covered  witli  their  efflortscence  that  ,;  sharp  coneussion  of  the  air  will  cause  tliem  to  fall  like  flakes  in  a  snow-storm. 

Manv  sm.iU  rooms  and  tortuou>  p.iths,  wheri'  daiii^ei  lies,  are  asuided  as  nineh  as  possibU';  but  even  on  the  rei^ul.ir  routes  tlirou,i;li  the 
Cave  .sonic  di.-aj;reeable  experiences  are  iiies  itable,  while  about  the  deep  |>its  |)eril  is  alw.i\  s  ]>resent.  The  one  now  known  as  the  I'oitom- 
less  Pit  w.is  for  many  years  a  barrier  to  all  further  exidoratiou,  and  until  a  stibstanti.il  woo<lcn  brid<;e  was  built  across  it.  I.oiit;  In-fore  the 
shaft  had  been  cut  as  deep  .IS  now,  the  w.itt  r  flowed  au.n  by  .i  channel  };radn.dly  coiitractiu;^  nntil  at  a  point  called  The  I'.it  Man's  Miserv 
the  walls  Were  only  eii.;luei  n  inches  ap.iit.  The  rock\  >ide>  .ire  biaiitifuUy  marked  witji  waves  and  ripples,  as  if  rumiinj,'  water  liad  been 
suddenly  iietrilied.  This  w  incliii!.;-\\.i\  cuducts  t.i  Riser  II. ill,  bexoml  which  lie  the  crystalline  jjardens  that  have  been  described.  It  was 
formerly  believed  that  if  tlii-.  n.irrow  p.iss.i^e  were  closed,  escape  would  be  impossible;  but  a  few  years  a,.;o  a  tortuous  fissure  called  the 
Ciirk-.Screw  w.is  discoxeieil,  b>  means  of  which  a  jjood  climber  ascending;  a  few  hiuulred  feet  finally  lands  1,(100  yards  from  the  month  of 
the  Ca\e,  and  cuts  olf  ne.irly  two  niiies. 

The  wilt  rs,  enteriii!,r  thronj^h  numerous  domes  ami  pits,  and  fallini;,  during;  the  rainy  .seas<in,  in  cascades  of  jjrcat  volume,  are  finally 
colkcted  in  River  II, ill,  where  they  form  several  extensive  lakes,  or  rivers,  whose  connection  with  (>reen  River  is  known  to  be  in  two  deep 
spring's  appe.irini;  under  .miles  on  its  m.ir!.;in.  Whenever  there  is  a  freshet  in  Cireeii  Kiv.r  the  streams  in  the  cave  are  joined  in  a 
Continuous  body  of  w.iter,  tin  rise  souielinies  beiiiiL;  .i^  innch  as  >ixty  feet  above  the  low-w.iter  mark.  The  subsidence  within  is  less  rapid 
th.in  the  rise;  .lud  the  streams  are  impass.ible  diirinj,'  a  yreatir  p.irt  of  the  year.  They  are  nsn.dly  iiavij.;able  from  ,Mav  to  October,  and 
furnish  exceeding:!)  interestini;  as  well  as  novel  features  of  cave  scenery.  The  largest  body  of  vv.'ter  is  calleil  the  Dead  .Sea,  embraced 
within  a  basin  formed  by  cli'fs  sixty  feet  liij;!!,  above  which  a  ])atli  h.is  been  made  which  leads  to  a  stairway  and  thence  to  the  River  Stvx, 
a  body  of  vv.iti  r  tli.it  is  four  hundred  feel  loiij.;  and  forty  feet  wide.  Lake  Lethe  is  the  next  water-basin,  enclosed  by  walls  iiinetv  feet  hiijli, 
below  which  is  ,i  ]iatli  that  condiut>  to  .1  ])ontoon  at  the  neck  of  the  lake.  Thence  a  beacli  of  the  finest  yellow  sanil  extends  for  .">00  vards 
to  Kcho  River,  the  larjjest  of  .ill,  beinj:;  ne.irly  one  mile  loiij.;,  from  iO  to  iOO  feet  l)road,  and  varying  in  depth  from  10  to  40  feet.  Two  or 
three  boats  are  jjlaced  on  this  Letlu  111  or  .Siyjjian  stream,  in  which  visitors  are  taken  from  one  end  of  the  river  to  the  other,  and  the  trip 
is  of  such  iiovilty  that  the  remembrance  of  it  is  imperish.ible.  To  see  the  boats  api)roachiny;,  in  the  weird  li>,'Iit  of  fliekeriii);  torches,  is 
like  a  vision  of  a  sjiectral  crew,  funereal,  se])nlchral  and  almost  horrific.  The  arc'',  overhead  is  syniinetrical  but  irrejjular  in  lieijjhl,  and  is 
famous  for  its  musical  reverberations — not  a  distinct  echo,  for  the  re])etitions  arc  so  rapid  that  they  inerjje  and  become  a  proloiijjation  of 
sound  that  coiuinms  for  nearly  half  a  minute.  The  lonjr  vault  has  a  certain  key-note  of  its  own,  which,  when  .sounded,  produces  harmonies 
of  almost  incredible  depth  and  sweetness. 

In  these  I'lutonian  re<,'ioiis  of  perpetual  ni),'ht,  where  vejjetation  is  only  iinajjed  by  petrified  efflorescence,  many  creatures  find  a 
congenial  abode,  and  become  m)  accustomed   to  this  dark  habitat   that  they  cannot  live  elsewhere.     Of  the  twenty-eight  different  .species 


49'S 


AMERICA'S  \V()XI)I-:RI.AM)S. 


ii     j;.     .1! 


'!•  ir 


hire  found,  the  most  riniaikaMo  an-  a  Miiul  and  wiuj^kss  grasslioppir  with  (.xtiinuly  lonj;  atti'nnir;  a  Mind  and  colorless  cray-fish,  and  a 
blind  fi>h  whieh  grows  to  the  leni;th  of  si\  inches.  These  tish  iiossess  the  additional  cniiosity  of  hiiny;  vi\  iparons,  or  produeinj^  their 
yonnj;  in  a  li\  ini;  state,  instiad  of  liy  egys.  Occasionally  other  fish  are  canjjht  in  the  running  stieanis  of  the  C'a\e  which  are  identical  with 
species  coninion  in  Cireeu  River,  thus  proviuij  the  suhlerraneaii  conn'.ctiou  that  exists  between  that  river  and  the  Cave  streams. 

The  .strongly  m. irked  divergence  of  these  blind  creatures  num  those  found  on  the  outside  led  .\g.issiz  to  believe  that  they  were 
.speci.illy  cte.ited  for  the  limits  within  which  thev  dwell;  but  the  o])ini<ui  now  geiur.dlv  lu  Id  is  that  they  are  modilieations  of  allied  species 
existing  in  the  sunlight,  and  that  their  peculiarities  are  to  be  accounted  for  on  the  i>rinciples  of  evolution — the  process  of  change  being 
acceler.iteil,  or  ret.irded,  by  their  migration  from  the  outer  world  to  a  region  of  silence  and  per])etual  darkness. 

Having  coticluded  onr  examination  of  Mammoth  Cue,  we  departed  by  the  Louisville  and  Nashville  Railroad  for  Louisville,  at 
which  city  train  was  taken  on  the  St.  Louis  ,\ir  Line  for  Wyandotte  Cue,  which  was  to  be  our  last  objective  jioint  in  completing  our 
extensive  iihotogr.iidiic  tour  of  America.  This  \ery  remark.d)le  Cue,  though  not  so  generally  known  as  Luray  or  Mannnoth,  is  about  ten 
miles  .south  of  the  Louisville  and  ,St.  I.ouis  .\ir  Line,  in  Cr.iwford  county,  Indiana,  and  is  only  live  miles  from  the  Ohio  River.  We  reached 
the  Cue  by  w.iy  of  .\IilItown,  thence  to  Corvilon,  and  from  that  point  bv  jirivate  conveyance  a  distance  of  eleven  miles.  I-jitrance  to  the 
Cive  is  by  way  of  a  Luge  opening  in  a  hillside,  the  aperture  being  alx'ut  six  feet  high  and  twenty  feet  wide,  through  which  there  is 
always  a  strong  circnl.ition  of  air  like  th.it  noted  at  the  mouth  of  Mannnoth  Cave,  while  the  temperature  is  likewise  uniformly  .">4'' 
I'.direuheit.  .\  short  ave.;i;e  leads  into  a  chamber  known  as  I'anueil  Hall,  whose  <liniensioiis  are  :illl>  feet  long,  /•()  feet  wide  aiul  2."i  feet 
high;  tlieuee  the  route  comlucts  through  Twilight  Hall  into  Cilunibi.in  .Arch,  which  resembles  a  railroad  tunnel,  so  symmetrical  is  the 
excavation.  Washington  .\venuc  is  next  entered,  which,  followed,  brings  the  visitor  to  Banditti  Hall,  where  the  ceiling  rises  to  an 
inmiense  height,  and  the  walls  are  j.igged,  as  i.  the  floor,  with  i)rotruding  rocks,  so  that  this  clKunber  is  both  forbidiling  in  ap])earancc  and 
ditTicult  to  tr.iverse.  .\t  this  jioint  the  m.iin  gallery  branches,  one  avenue  leading  to  what  is  known  as  the  Old  Cave,  and  the  other 
conducting  by  a  longer  rmite  to  more  interesting  a]i,irtments  than  those  before  ])assed.  Through  a  narrow  crevice  the  visitor  gains  a  room 
called  the  I!, lis'  T.oclge,  and  bevond  this  is  Rugged  Mountain,  which  is  in  the  center  of  a  circular  room,  wdiere  Ivpsom  salts  of  sparkling; 
purity  and  vast  qii.inlities  of  gypsum  in  eOlorescent  beauty  cover  the  arched  vault.  Seen  under  torch-light  the  effect  is  indescribably 
nLignificent,  aiul  is  the  first  striking  iiitimilion  which  the  visitor  receives  of  the  extraordinary  grandeur  to  which  he  will  be  ])rescntly 
introduced.  Following  the  long  route  v  ■  cross  a  lovely  sand-deposit  known  as  the  Plain,  but  find  an  abrupt  termination  of  this  level  walk  and 
are  compelled  to  climb  the  rock-bestrewn  Hill  of  Difficultv,  then  .siiueeze  through  a  small  ]iassage-way  from  which  we  find  present  relief  by 
emerging  into  W.ill.ice's  Crand  Dome,  one  of  the  most  inagnificent  chambers,  as  well  as  the  largest,  in  the  Cave,  being  24.^  feet  high  and 
;i'i()  feet  in  di. muter.  In  the  center  is  Monument  Mountain,  a  tremendous  stalagmite  formation  above  which  is  an  immen.se  dome 
beflovvered  with  cr.rling  leaves  of  gy  psum  that  bear  a  wondrous  likeness  to  the  foliage  of  the  acauMuis.  .Vt  the  apex  of  the  mountain  is  a 
stalagmite  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  circumference,  which  has  been  broken  by  some  force  into  three  columns,  which,  viewed  from 
t"'e  base,  admirably  counterfeit  three  mominients,  or  ghosts  clad  in  robes  of  gleaming  whiteness,  from  which  fact  the  ch.nmber  takes  its 
name.  \'isitors  are  usually  treated  to  a  superbly  gnind  sight  while  examining  the  sjilendors  of  this  hall,  for  the  guide  dispo.ses  his 
company  about  the  base  of  the  mountain,  and  ascending  to  the  .summit  he  extinguishes  his  torch  in  order  to  bring  the  visitors  under  the 
inrtueiice  of  dense  d.irkness  for  a  few  moments.  Suddenly  the  peak  is  lighted  up  with  a  dazzling  splendor,  as  the  guide  touches  off 
green,  blue,  red  and  orange  lights,  bathing  the  chamber  in  a  sea  of  flaming  beauty  and  bejewelling  its  lofty  arch  until  .\laddin's  Cave  of  our 
imagination  is  reprocluceil. 

Ikyond  Wallace's  Dome  there  are  a  hundred  halls  of  great  magnificence,  in  nearly  all  of  which  are  seen  fanta.stic  examples  of 
stalactite  formations,  and  marvelous  decorations  of  whitest  gy])suni,  Milroy's  Temiile  being  a  very  exhibition-room  of  the.se  exquisite 
curiosities:  huge  rocks,  overhung  by  galleries  of  creamery  stalactites,  vermicular  tubes  intertwined,  frozen  cataracts  and  vine-like  pendant 
fonns  of  stalactites,  cluster  along  the  walls  in  a  profusion  almost  incredible.     Imagine  great  nias.ses  of  white  delicate  branching  coral, 


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twistintj,  cuiliii)^  and  iiitirlaciiij,'  itsilf,  scrpciit-liki-,  iiito  csctv  a)iiciival)lc'  fantastic  slia]ii',  and  ynu  liave  onlv  a  faint  idta  of  the  trnly 
cxtraiirdin.iiy  M'tiKi) of  tills  j^linlous  ti'mjilc  i'i\  'fd  liy  naluri'.  Otiur  lialls  of  alincist  il\al  siikmlor  arc  knnwii  as  Siinwv  Cliffs,  I'rosti'd 
Rocks,  l''aity  I'al.uc,  llcanly's  linucr,  Tlic  'I'liinnf,  and  Pillared  I'alacc,  in  all  of  wliiili  ),'\  p^uni  and  stalactites  occnr  in  tlic  most  cllanilinj,' 
and  iuiiiosiny;  forms.  Pillared  I'alacc  is  ])arlicnlarly  cntianiin^,' in  its  sumplnons  ancl  ariliiteclnrally  licantifnl  dccoraliinis,  It  is  from 
live  to  six  fii't  liiyli,  forty  or  lift\  feet  wide  and  several  Inindri'd  feet  Ion;,'.  Its  ceilin;,'  is  a  coniplete  frinv;e-\vink  of  stalactites,  wliile  its 
floor  is  as  thickly  set  with  stalanniites,  many  of  which  latter  unite  with  the  former,  iiiakinj;  ilie  j^randest  ]]illars,  I)ra|ier\  of  every 
conccivahlc  st>  Ic  may  he  seen,  some  of  which  is  as  transparent  as  cr\stal  and  rin^,•s  like  a  siUer  hell  when  exposed  to  a  li^;ht  Mow. 
.After  I'illared  Palace  comes  the  Palace  of  the  Cieiiii,  which  for  delicate  formations  even  excels  the  former.  Here  are  found  stalactites 
of  every  conceivable  furni,  maiiv'  of  them  as  white  as  if  tliev  were  made  of  sn|.;.ir  or  whitest  marhle. 

Passing  tlnniiMli  I'airy  Cirotto,  Xeptnne's  Uelre.U,  and  Ilerniit's  Cell,  the  visitor  enters  a  laryjcr  chainher  investeil  with  the  same 
chariniii),'  ornamentation,  and  in  the  center  is  a  rich  canopy  of  stalactite  overh.inninj^  a  slal:iL;niile  which  has  been  likened  hv  .some 
imaginative  ])erson  to  a  cluiir  riihly  upholstered.  This  is  called  the  Throne,  a  design, ition  approjiriate  cnou,i,'h,  for  it  is  one  of  the  most 
royally  hcatitifid  curiosities  in  the  Cave,  as  the  illustration  will  show. 

That  portion  known  as  the  (  >ld  Cave,  while  scarcely  .so  interesting  as  the  ^'alleries  and  v  ;udts  of  the  lonjj;  route,  contains  several 
halls  of  nmcli  interest  and  one,  called  the  Senate  Chamber,  which  riv.ds  W.dlace's  l)ome.  In  the  ei'uter  of  this  room  stands  a  monutain 
whose  top  is  covered  many  feet  deep  with  stalactite  formations,  upon  which  stands  the  Pillar  of  tlu-  Constitution.  This  is  an  iuMuense 
stalagmite  measuring,'  seventv  ive  feet  in  circnmfercnie  and  thirty  feet  hi:.;!!,  reachin;^  from  the  top  of  the  mount.iiu  to  the  ceiling;  above, 
fluted  and  carved  after  a  manner  that  would  have  )itit  to  shame  the  most  cxtravajj;:nit  architecture  of  Rouu's  most  halcyon  days.  The 
world  has  not  yet  pr<iduced,  so  far  as  civili/cd  man  k    ows,  anv  thins,'  <'f  '''c  kind  to  e(iual  it.     A  writer  sa\s  of  it: 

"  licfore  us  arose  a  considerable  hill,  n|)ou  the  lop  of  which  stood,  like  a  column  snp]>ortinj.j  the  ceiliny;,  a  \ast  staIaf,Mnite  like  an 
immense  spectral-lookin^j  iceberj;  loomiuK  uj)  before  ns,  appearing;  as  thou^jh  it  had  just  arisen  from  the  foaininj,'  waves  of  the  ocean,  cm  a 
dark  and  fo),'j,'y  nij^dit.  In  the  uncertain  liKht  of  our  lamps  it  presented  an  appcaraiu'e  i^rand,  if  not  appalliui,';  but  when  the  I)rnnimond 
lijiht  had  been  set  off,  all  this  chani,'ed  to  the  most  unearthly  beauty.  The  ceiliu;;  above,  with  its  lon^j  fringes  of  stalactites,  came  out  to 
view,  and  the  jjreat  pillar  could  be  seen  in  all  its  f^randenr  and  beauty." 

Heyond  this  is  Pluto's  Ravine,  where  stands  Stallasso's  Monument,  a  large  white  stalajjniite,  marked  all  over  with  ]icncil  inscrip- 
tions, some  of  them  sixty  years  old,  coniposiiij;;  an  autosjra])h  album  of  woiulerfnl  curiosity,  containing  hundreds  of  names  which  to  fame 
are  otherwise  unknown,  and  effusions  of  doggerel  poets  whose  reptitations,  alas,  will  no  doubt  be  forever  restricted  to  the  limits  of  this  cave 
chamber.  A  short  distance  beyond  i'lnto's  Kaviue  is  the  tcrniinatiiui  of  this  section  of  the  Cave,  and  from  this  point  return  is  made  to  the 
open  air.  A  ramble  aiiumg  the  subterranean  glories  ai\d  ])etrified  splendors  of  Wyandotte  Cave  was  a  fit'iij  conclusion  to  one  of  the  uu)st 
interesting  tours  that  was  ever  taken  through  the  picturesque  regions  of  our  country;  a  tour  affording  so  iimch  information,  j)leasure, 
adventure,  and  profit,  that  the  remembrance  unist  forever  remain  a  source  of  inten.se  satisfaction  and  delight.  It  was  with  feelings  of  deep 
regret  that  we  .separated  after  the  comidetion  of  our  work,  aiul  each  returned  to  his  respective  home,  to  take  up  anew  the  old  labor  which 
we  had  laid  down  when  the  start  was  uuule  upon  (Uir  long  journey.  During  the  trip  our  photographers  took  fi'':-  thousand  pictures;  many 
of  these  were  taken  under  unfavoraMc  conditions,  and  upon  development  were  found  unworthy  of  reproduction.  Many  others  were 
excellent  and  well  deserving  to  rank  with  those  which  we  have  here  used,  but  there  is  a  limit  to  all  tilings,  and  ours  docs  not  exceed  the 
space  occupied  by  the  ."i-'O  odd  views  which  we  have  presented;  these,  however,  are  fairly  representative  of  the  incomparable  scenery  that 
charmingly  diversifies  our  native  laud,  a  laud  kissed  by  the  lips  of  liberty,  bounty,  and  beauty,  and  blessed  with  an  amplitude  of 
powers,  under  the  exercise  of  which  the  largest  freedom,  benefits  and  sovereign  rights  are  obtained  for  the  wdiole  people. 


